Setting The Valve Lash on a Briggs 206

Point Karting.com is back with another 16 for 206 video! This time, we are covering the vital importance of setting valve lash on the Briggs & Stratton 206, and how to do it!
For more of these videos, and your ultimate resource for all components Briggs 206, check out www.pointkarting.com
Link to the Full "16 for 206" Series: pointkarting.com/pages/16-tip...

[@armstrong818]

Eric. Excellent video. Best on youtube and also, point karting always has every part we need; appreciate you always being there for us.

[@minnie19booboo]

I couldn't find the correct Allen to set into my mini bike frame so I used a cheap Allen socket and it broke into the set screw. I tried to drill it out but ended up buying a whole new nut and set screw. Live and learn I guess!? Thanks for the video!

[@PointKarting]

@Kevin Bacon one thing we've done usually is we loosen the larger adjuster (5/8" wrench) first, and that prevents the stripping of those allen head screws. Then, once tension is released off of the allen set screw it is easier to move and loosen for fine-tuning your adjustment until you are ready to tighten it back down. Sorry you ended up stripping the screw :(

[@rastapus7]

Hey Eric, you mentioned in the video that you prefer .002" and some people set it at 0". What's the difference? I thought you needed to follow the factory BS recommendation for best performance.

[@PointKarting]

@Andrew Ryan great question! What we’ve found tearing down many of these engines is that setting at 0.00” is great....for a very short time. Once the engine gets hot, as the valves grow you begin to get blow by past the valves. As a result, setting at 0.002” is about as tight as we run to prevent this blow-by, meaning that at the peak of combustion the valves are sealed up in the head, and proper compression and burn can occur. Running tighter than 0.002”, especially on the exhaust valve, and upon taking apart the head you can see burnt and unburnt carbon in the channels of the valves. Let me know if this clarifies your question! If not, let’s keep chatting.

[@corylutz1553]

Should the rocker studs be loctite to avoid coming loose?

[@PointKarting]

Hey Cory! Great question. The answer is likely no, as the heat from engine operation would render Loctite not very usable. With the frequency of service on the valves, my suggestion would get to just keep an eye on it and tighten as necessary. (there are grades of Loctite that are strong enough for the heat but wouldn't recommend it as you'll never get it loose).

[@OdessaHunter]

Is it possible to explain in other words, for those who can't get it clearly from video, how to find the correct position of piston for adjustment? I understand, it need to pass once cycle of intake and outtake strokes and find the top position of piston, is this correct? Thanks a lot in advance.

[@PointKarting]

Thank you for your question! Hmm. Basically, in essence what we are attempting to do is find "Top Dead Center" of the piston. This is the point at which the piston is at its highest point of travel. Essentially think of the piston moving up and down within the cylinder, it is connected to the connecting rod, and at one end it comes as far 'upward' as it ever will within the engine, and this is a point known as Top Dead Center. What is even more critical is also finding this point "Top Dead Center" on the combustion / power stroke - this is when the camshaft / lobes of the cam are relaxed, and the valves within the cylinder head are seated and relaxed from any stress by the valve springs. To find Top Dead Center on the combustion / power stroke, pull the pull-cord of the engine, and watch (with the valve cover removed) the rocker arms move. You will see the rocker depress for the intake stroke, and then come back to normal position. Then, just after this, you will see a small movement on the exhaust rocker arm / valve, and this is a sign you are very close to top-dead-center on the combustion stroke. Once you see this, use a small socket or allen / rod (no more than 6mm in diameter) and insert into the hole for the spark plug, and feel for the piston as it begins to travel upwards within the cylinder. You will feel it rise and you can tell by marking or by noticing the rod you are using to find the top of the piston also rising too. This may take a few trials to find exact top dead center, but this will get it positioned to find the best point at which to service your engine. Once there, you can set your valves properly. I hope this was somewhat helpful in text form - for me I am a visual person so I prefer the video, but I hope this is helpful! Please let me know if you have more questions!

[@OdessaHunter]

@@PointKarting Thanks a lot for details! It helped. Many words I can translate and get clear view. Will try this once I got my engine :)

[@armyraw29]

is there a power difference with the 0.002 / 0.001 or 0 ?

[@PointKarting]

Good question! 0.002 is what we have found results in the least amount of blow-by when hot, at a minimum. 0.001 or 0 may make a little more power for a short period of time, but as components heat up and expand (the valves mainly) these tolerances are not ideal and can result in power loss. However, the best way to find if this is your experience as well is to test for yourself!

[@fasaria78]

how often should this be checked??

[@PointKarting]

@Joe Blow (nice username!), we recommend once before every race, but it really depends on your preference. Heat cycles tend to make the rocker arms come out of adjustment over time, so it's best to stay on top of it. Once you get the hang of it, checking your valve lash takes 2-3 minutes.

[@fasaria78]

@@PointKarting lol, thanks. Anything else I should be doing for optimal performance output before races?

[@PointKarting]

@@fasaria78 absolutely! Reach out to us at [e-mail] and we will send you a Briggs 206 maintenance document we have for our customers.