Setting up a NodeMCU/ESP8266 to control Independently Addressable LEDs

This is my first video in a series on learning more about controlling independently addressable LEDs wirelessly using an open source project called WLED. It is long and covers a lot of errors I made and how I resolved them, but I hope this will be helpful for people just starting out, like me. If you would find it helpful, I can re-cut this to only show what works for future reference without having to "learn with me".
WLED:
github.com/Air...
ESPEasyFlasher:
github.com/Bat...
The following links are affiliate links, they won't change your price, but I will (hopefully) be compensated if you use them:
KeeYees 3 pack ESP8266 NodeMCU:
amzn.to/3AhGe9H
Breadboards with Wires:
amzn.to/3hxspLt
BTF-Lighting WS2811 Pixel RGB LEDs:
amzn.to/36aUxz2
Music rights and details that I hope won't come back to bite me later:
Music by Jarico - Island
/ island-free

[@stephanlemaire]

Thank you for this detailed video. I download the Flash tools with your help and just wait my stuffs bought from Amazon and Aliexpress today. Very cool that you show the issues : The one with the (1) in the Wled.bin file name and the USB charging wire one. We all learn from your tests and save time. 😉

[@carlosnyreenkoehler7738]

Thank you so much for mentioning things that did not work, as soon as you said something about putting in the signal in the wrong end I knew immediately what I was doing wrong and now everything works great.

[@ryanoc333]

I was finally able to use WLED after many frustrating attempts to use the website flashing technique. As soon as I followed this, it all just worked. I'm ready to start my matrix project now. Thanks very much for this video!

[@producdevity]

It’s so nice and refreshing to follow a technical tutorial from someone who isn’t an “expert” on the topic. Everything is so easy to follow, I assume because the way you are teaching is without taking things for granted. I am guilty of this as well, when teaching programming I get called out on skipping or clicking through, some parts that are obvious when you're experienced with the subject but can be really daunting when you're still learning. I might not get my LEDs working, but I'll for sure be more aware the next time I'm giving a programming class or workshop

[@juniorshbr13]

I wanted to thank you for your video. I like that you show what other things do happen and how you went about fixing the problem. In short I really appreciate your videos. Thank you

[@chybeat]

This video is simply and instructive bit most important.. has some funny moments... GOOOD videoi! :)

[@fevgg]

just repeited that. Awesome!

[@Magnaheim]

Thanks for teaching me how to tell what is just a charging cable. 🤣 Have a like, you've earned it!

[@ChasingSquirrels]

Thanks for the like! I've run into the charging cable issue about 5 times since then and I mark them as charging cables by cutting them in half and throwing them away. 😁

[@producdevity]

@@ChasingSquirrels in the trash, where they belong hahaha. I'll probably strip them and use the cables in a project. That said, if they skimmed on adding 2 extra wires, they probably used some single 50 gauge unusable wire😂

[@monnomestpersonne5020]

Merci! wonderfull explanations!!!

[@gokhanayvazoglu6295]

Hi, I want to use wled with my ws2815 5 meter led/m 60 leds. Can I use just jumper as wire or do I need 18 awg wire to connect ESP32+ power supply+ 12v to 5v converter + ws2815

[@bluemindedchild]

the dig quad and dig uno dr zzzs sells are actually from a guy named quindor. dr zzs just sells them for america. the number 1 reason to use them is power protection when you get more than a string or 2 together. the power protection will snap the fuse not your lights which can be a potential fire hazard. the other major use is the boards usually want 5v power and depending on your leds may want 12v power. to use the same power supply on both requires a mother regulator board. this is built into the dig board lastly if you go more than a meter or so from your esp on the control you can lose signal which requires sacrificing a pixel to put it right next to the esp and the run your control wire several yards or more (ie garage has equipment yard has lights.) or use a signal booster board. 3 separate boards all built into the dig units. for your explanation here at short runs and short distances the esp is indeed more than fine and probably doesn't need the extra... for anyone wondering what the extras are for there you go. hope it was useful

[@ChasingSquirrels]

Definitely helpful, and I love the concepts of the dig uno and dig quad, it is just hard to learn so much about them from a reseller. I'm hoping to buy a few in the future so as I learn more about LEDs I can learn for myself the value of them. In re-watching the video I come across as more critical of them and Dr Zzs than I meant to, definitely have nothing but respect for Dr Zzs and he's the reason I even attempted tackling addressable LEDs.

[@ernestorivero688]

The esp8266 I like for its large storage capacity compared to some arduino and for its low cost, it is cheaper than an arduino one, despite its large storage capacity, but I do not have wifi network, I could use it myself to handle matrix of leds ws2812, another question I must download the file that you download and install it, that is, the firware.

[@mike95826]

To do your own animations such as for a Christmas display you can try a program called XLIGHTS or another is called VIXENLIGHTS. They use a data protocol called E131 that is included with WLED.

[@ChasingSquirrels]

Awesome! I'll absolutely check that out! At the slow rate I have for playing with these it may be Christmas 2023 before I get to have real fun during Christmas with these! (there's a part of me looking hard at XLIGHTS and ESP8266 for underglow for my Prius, mainly for the irony, but also because it would be a smaller project)

[@tortysoft]

The flickering is caused by the fact you need to use a second ground line. At least, that works for me !

[@starmc26]

Nope, he needs a resistor on the data line and a capacitor on the strips power supply wires.

[@tortysoft]

@@starmc26 True - I have done that too.

[@ChasingSquirrels]

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

[@ChasingSquirrels]

@Mister M Thanks for that tip, I'll give it a try! Any tips on the type of resister and capacitor? I'm very new to electronics (is it obvious? 😜) and also bought some logic level converters to try out to boost the signal (but haven't tried them yet... I wound up chasing other squirrels and haven't recorded those yet).

[@tortysoft]

@@ChasingSquirrels I have just blown up an LED string so maybe I'm not the best person to give advice :-( But ... the resistor - which I didn't use - is to reduce the voltage to an acceptable range. I just put far too much in, Re the capacitor, basically it just removes DC on the data control line, so any will do, but, using a ground from the PSU to the string does the most good.

[@daisym6503]

It says offline. Could you please tell me how to fix this?

[@5VoltChannel]

Nice 👍👍

[@ChasingSquirrels]

Thanks, it is fun to learn! I'm impressed with your projects, definitely very creative!

[@jbragg2493]

Great tutorial. Can you only have data come out of pin D4? If you have a lot of strips that you do not want to connect in a long line, do you just continue to plug into d4 or is there another pin to use?

[@ChasingSquirrels]

I haven't tried connecting more than one strip yet (I only have the one strand) but I did find this: kno.wled.ge/features/multi-strip/

[@user-np6dm7ks3e]

to find the " just charging cable " connect your phone to pc if you see the phone its data cable note : even some data cables can have problems whit flashing boards

[@ChasingSquirrels]

Thanks, good to know on some data cables having troubles flashing boards. I've recently learned shorter data cables are more reliable for more sensitive projects too.

[@technicalking5813]

Sir how to connect xlight software in esp8266? Sir please tell me

[@ernestorivero688]

El esp8266 me gusta por su capacida tan grande de almacenamiento comparado con algunos arduino y por su bajo costo,es más barato que un arduino uno,a pesar de su gran capacidad de almacenamiento,pero yo no tengo red wifi,yo podría usarlo así mismo para manejar matrix de leds ws2812,otra pregunta debo descargar el archivo que usted descargo e intalarselo,es decir el firware.

[@blackdave8525]

Your going to have to use many of these esp8266 if you want many ws2811's that's a cert , it will not run many off one controller

[@MtMd-be4kd]

Hello my friend I have a small problem can you help me

[@danman32]

You shouldn't use 18 gage wire on a breadboard. 22 gage max.

[@IamMaverick]

I guess the issue of flickering is due to data signal being on low voltage. All it needs is a logic level shifter between the strip and NodeMCU

[@elvirafloreta4680]

Hello also having problem with the flickering and using both strip and string versions of ws2811 but the problem is not syncing the same colors, already change the default rgb color in settings.

[@ChasingSquirrels]

@Maverick, thanks I've ordered some Logic Level shifters and hoping to test that out soon!

[@mehtabhossain3270]

What is the password

[@fhussainmomin268]

Sir,..how many pixels on maximum?

[@ChasingSquirrels]

I looked this up, and found there's no *real* limit to number of pixels, but the more you use with a single controller, the longer it takes the signal to get to the end. So some people will put about 400 pixels per NodeMCU chip, and will somehow sync them together (I'm still learning, but I plan on posting a video on that when I do get that far). Some people have done hundreds of lights, and mike95826 is recommending controlling them with XLIGHTS or VIXENLIGHTS which may keep things in sync.

[@andrewm1967]

it is asking me for a password !

[@ChasingSquirrels]

Which step? It looks like the WiFi has a default password of wled1234 but I don't remember needing a password to connect.

[@imrecordingtoo1374]

@@ChasingSquirrels I had to enter that password as well

[@edgarvizcaino1628]

dude you lost me on the failed flash, i had the same error you did then you went off and did some crazy sht. then you renamed the file and it flashed. mine doesn't have a space or parenthesis. smh

[@esinohio]

Save time and just use an ESP32 with wled instead. More functionality in the code.

[@ChasingSquirrels]

Thanks for the tip, I haven't used an ESP32, but it looks to be a lot faster and more powerful than the ESP8266. Does WLED work differently on the ESP32? If so, I'm open to buying one to test out and make a video on that as well.

[@esinohio]

@@ChasingSquirrels Well, it makes it far easier to control multiple strands, that's for sure! For my Christmas light project that came in handy but your milage on that feature may vary. The extra memory also made the animations run a bit smoother, especially when the numbers of led's goes up. The sound reactive branch of WLED also runs like a champ on the ESP32 if that is something you're interested in. Beyond that, there isn't much more actual functionality between the different versions. Not sure what I was thinking, I might have had the sound reactive branch on the brain.

[@OGKenG]

This was hard watching you not understand what you are trying to teach people to do.

[@TheOldKid]

Isn't the original password 1234?