Sewing 18th Century Stays from Simplicity 8162 Corset Pattern

[@lydiaderhake2532]

This is so much prettier than I would have expected from a "budget" pattern. Thank you so much for sharing the results and also adding the tips about some of the construction!

[@honestmillennial8510]

Beautiful! I didn't realize you designed this pattern, makes me much more confident. Real question, though: how much does it annoy you that they didn't use spiral lacing on the pattern image? ;)

[@sewingwithjazz]

are you going to continue the series? perhaps giving tips to creating the gown. how it should fit and so on. thx

[@sherryjohnson2654]

This is such a great idea! Thank you for doing these videos AND designing a historic pattern with flexibility and authenticity. Looking forward to more videos.

[@AmericanDuchess1]

Thank you!

[@Microsity]

I've been in the process of making these piece by piece for a while. I was... a little too excited when the pattern came out, because I saw them on Instagram first and I was just WAITING

[@AmericanDuchess1]

you can do it! if you have any questions, let me know :)

[@katemurphy1765]

It's so cool how you are making historical dress accessible for those of us who are beginners or hobbyists. I can't wait to try out this pattern the next time that direct deposit hits!!

[@AmericanDuchess1]

You can do it!

[@belindahenkel5096]

Thank You... sizing dilemma?..Sorted.. and 3 cheers to American duchess for the patterns and the support.

[@AmericanDuchess1]

thanks!

[@adriennepuck]

This is EXACTLY what stays/a corset should be!

[@AmericanDuchess1]

thank you!

[@sarafarwell8961]

I cut out a "mock-up" of the pieces for the 18th century stays...I have a long torso and the pieces are not long enough for me. Any tips on how to make them longer?

[@AmericanDuchess1]

Length at or just above the waistline, which is where the tabs are cut to - "connect the dots" along the very top of each of the tabs and that is the waistline. Slash it there and extend as much as you need to.

[@penelope-oe2vr]

Cut across the waistline, add in length with another piece of paper and tape it back together. Add your length there. I am also long torso person. Easy peasy!

[@raisingwildarrows7531]

I love this pattern!

[@billettescrafts]

Is there a step by step video/ photos for making the stays pattern? Where do I get the boning? Your patterns are lovely! I bought the outlander 8161 and stays 8162 patterns and can't wait to get started!!!!

[@AmericanDuchess1]

Billettes Baubles we've done a few and are still working on more. check out all our videos on our channel for more stay making videos

[@billettescrafts]

Thank you AD! I love your videos and they are extremely helpful. Love your patterns too

[@cookietolentino4952]

you gals do beautiful work. i love all of it.

[@danielehmann1918]

Thank you very much! These are very interesting infos.

[@SuperModerngranny]

Beautiful pattern!

[@SeerWalker]

haha I have the opposite problem as described here, my bust is so small it might as well me negligible 😶

[@anjanunnenmacher344]

ladies beware, these are larger than you think, normally i would be a 16 because of my 38 inch bustline but it was WAY too big for me everywhere and i had to go to the smallest size

[@jessicacombs810]

So you did 14? Was the 14 still too large to lace tightly? I'm in between 16/18 , would I be alright with a 14 you think?

[@anjanunnenmacher344]

actually i did a 6 and it's still big on me....they need patterns in a size 2 for people who are naturally petite

[@BallooNeccesities]

This is the number 1 reason why a person SHOULD mock up one before sewing with final material choices. This way you can also accommodate a long torso.

[@rachaeldawn9544]

Could you possibly do a regency era stay video/pattern I have been trying to find one that I can work with but am a bit at a loss? Your stays/corsets always come out so beautifully.

[@AmericanDuchess1]

good idea! Lauren has a Regency corset from Redthreaded that she's actually never worn. While we work on this, check out the 1830s stays/corset video, too

[@rachaeldawn9544]

@@AmericanDuchess1 Great! Thanks so much, and I will.

[@cassieward1536]

What chemise pattern are you wearing? The one from simplicity is different?

[@jesspao9785]

I have a question regarding sizing, im in between the 12 (26.5in waist) and the 14 (28 in waist), my waist is 27 inches...im not sure if I should size up to the 14 or stick with the 12, any help would be appreciated! Thanks

[@cheyennepetersen3417]

I'm exactly the same and I'm going to use the 12 because I bought the 4-12 sized pattern. I think it should be okay? I see your comment is 3 years old now, do you have any update on what you did?

[@jesspao9785]

@@cheyennepetersen3417 hello! in all honest I don't remember what size i ended up going with lol😅 but i did make it and was happy with the over all result. i will eventually make another one in the future and when i do i need to make it longer. i have a longer torso so the "flaps?" at the bottom came up pretty high on my waist above my pelvis and the front center point faired out/stuck out quite a bit on my lower abdomen area🙃 I know they're not like early 1900/1910 corsets in length but i still felt like it should come lower like a 1860 corset on my torso sides/hip

[@Kirstin7258]

Thanks so much for this video :)

[@giodrakes]

Thank you for this video! Now I want to buy the pattern :D My question is, if you were to have the time to stitch around the metal eyelets (I want the metal for strength anyway), what kind of thread or yarn or what would you use to stitch around the eyelets? I am thinking of doing mine all in beige and more plain, like the ones in the movie. Thanks!

[@emolorin1070]

I've used embroidery thread to stitch around metal eyelets to great success before! Loading four strands on a needle and stitching in circles until no metal is left seems to work very well (and relatively quickly), plus it also helps prevent the fabric ripping that you sometimes get with metal eyelets! As an added bonus, with embroidery thread there's a million different colours to choose from, which sounds like it'd work great with what you have planned :)

[@sublimnalphish7232]

You coukd use upholstery thread that would have the strength to handle constant wear embroidery thread is pretty but wont last as long as one made to take rubbing.

[@saltlifegull4091]

Outstanding job! Do have some questions, so help! What did you use for the boning? Do you mean you put the boning down into the scallop tabs? I would really like to see you work those tabs on the bottom. Maybe another video? Also, is there something less expensive than buying spiral boning or steel? THANKS!!! Enjoyed the history of the garment you gave. A+

[@AmericanDuchess1]

Boning was cable ties, but synthetic whalebone is readily available now (www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com) which comes in narrower widths and is a great option! As for working the tabs - this video is a few years old, so all the tabs are finished, but maybe another video in the future! Hope this helps!

[@nikandrosnickmackeage378]

I know someone who's bust is 31", waist 25", hips 30 1/2" and back to waist length 14 1/4 to 14 1/2" how would they go by selecting the right pattern size or altering it to fit

[@maryjohnson9337]

These are so very beautiful! I hope it's not too late to ask a question. Would these be bust supportive for sports with a lot of bounce, particularly horseback riding?

[@Erika-xm9rm]

Hello, I'm so confused by the sizing. I fall in between the two packets available so it's always a headache trying to figure out whether to go higher or lower. My measurements are closest to 14 if I go by my bust measurement. Waist goes higher than that, to like a 16 or so. I keep seeing other people say that these stays were not the right size when they went by the measurements on the back. But here they are saying that they went by their measurements on the packet. I would love to know if anyone has any advice about this. I don't like sizing a pattern up or down myself when it could have been avoided.

[@hannahakerson5882]

What sort of weights of fabric did you use? What weights of fabric were used back in the day? Thank you for all the help.

[@paulachambless8877]

I have a question. I have pattern 8578 simplicity and I am a plus size lady. I don't like ruffles so can I leave them off? I did get fabric that has flowers made on to not printed on. to take the place of the ruffles.

[@AmericanDuchess1]

Yup, ruffles are totally optional :)

[@rianaangwin3179]

I've purchased this pattern even thought I know it's gonna be too small how should I go about sizing up

[@AmericanDuchess1]

Riana Angwin hi! there are two size pattern packs and the patterns are multi-size. if you still need a larger find the difference between your measurements and the pattern, then divide that by the number of seams and add this difference to each seam at the bust and waist points on all pattern pieces.

[@sososleeepy]

what kind of fabric did ou use for the outside and where did you get it? it's so pretty but I can't seem to find it anywhere ):

[@Alexsparkles420]

is reed okay for these stays? I find reed is alot more....flexible with funny spine curves.

[@applesKIWISbananas]

Reed and synthetic whale bone are both very flexible and forgiving, and (regular whale bone) both historically used. They just provide support, all the shaping comes from the pattern piecing. If you find the curves of your spine make your silhouette a little bit "wonky" or asymmetrical, you can use cotton batting or other fillers to pad your stays and fill out these problem areas

[@evae.7696]

Lovely video! Would you know if a bum roll could be too big? I made my own but I always feel a bit clunky wearing it >

[@annag9715]

Pozdrowienia z Polski :)

[@user-lo4ww9kq9o]

hi! do we need to arrange the eyelets/grommets differently if we would like to do spiral lacing?

[@erinndalton6395]

So this might be a silly question, but how many layers of fabric are there in the stays?

[@isabellescales3763]

3 or 4

[@amandaf3250]

I really like the pattern! Do I need to have lace on the straps?

[@AmericanDuchess1]

Amanda Forslund the ribbon is what ties the straps to the front of the stays, and makes them adjustable. it doesn't have to be fancy ribbon, but it does need to be some kind of tie, otherwise you'll need to draft a new pattern piece for the shoulder straps.

[@jackiegoss5485]

Hi my bust is 55.5 inches as I have a large back but not much in the front

[@surfrchk3]

What size grommets did you use?...

[@goldenbird1542]

Thanks for the information! Does anyone have a recommendation for where to find the zip ties? I'm having trouble finding the recommended sized zip ties.

[@AmericanDuchess1]

You can get them at any hardware store like Lowes, Home Depot, or Harbor freight. Sometimes the really big ones come in a coil, and sometimes in long packages.

[@queenofhearts6127]

Hi, on the pattern it says 3/4 inch wide, but I’ve seen people on videos using 1/4 inch wide. I’m not sure which ones to go for as in the uk I’m struggling to find wide enough ones, if you have any advice I’d appreciate it :)

[@natashabenjamin4222]

Any advice for someone making their first pair of stays?

[@kittiekat1236]

I was wondering about the holes for the lacing, do you have specific measurements that work for these stays.

[@babbsfangirl8254]

Great video. Is this pattern meant to be used as the undergarments to the 8411 pattern?

[@kittys.2870]

What about us over endowed persons? All I see are not going to 'let me in' (dd/ddd).

[@worldmeetsgirl23]

The link with instructions on how to shorten or lengthen the stays is broken.

[@AMiniaturist]

Do I need to pre-wash the fabric despite not washing the stays? Thanks for the informative video!

[@AmericanDuchess1]

hi - it's a good idea to pre-wash anything that is cotton or linen, just in case. When you wash linen you'll want to iron it really well with spray starch, so it'll be stiffened and not too wiggly when it comes to cut and sew it. With silk, never wash it, of course.

[@AMiniaturist]

Thank you! :D

[@cziegle3794]

What fabric did you use for the corset - linen, cotton, silk? Is there one particular historically-correct fabric that works best and/or is most commonly/properly used?

[@AmericanDuchess1]

The green stays in this video are made using an upholstery cotton for the outer fabric. Both linen and wool are historically accurate and very common for stays. Silk was also used.

[@lynhodge8685]

Thought worth asking. If using grommets, do I use 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch? I dont see in the pattern where it tells me.

[@AmericanDuchess1]

Hi Linda - Use the smallest grommets. I typically use size 00 (if you order them from, say Corset Supply), or 1/4".

[@lynhodge8685]

Thank you. I had 1/4 or 1/2 and just couldnt decide. Just about done with simplicity 8162

[@greergarlick4675]

Silly question, but does the back of the stays need go be boned aswell?

[@AmericanDuchess1]

yes, the whole thing is boned, especially on either side of the eyelets/grommets for lacing

[@kanayamaryamwhatsittoyah]

Do I have to use actually boning or could I use cording instead

[@AlexDesise]

I'm itching to make my own stays. I have a question though; I don't have any time restrictions in regards to hand stitching the eyelets but I was wondering what tool is used for the metal eyelets. Can anyone tell me what it's called and possibly where I could find it?

[@whatalotofocelots]

Sorry you've been waiting for two months, but they're called eyelet pliers, or a grommet press!

[@AlexDesise]

@@whatalotofocelots thank you very much! 😊

[@kaitlyncrosset2284]

Hi! I was wondering what fabrics you used while making this? I have the patterns and what I need is the fabric so I can begin making my stays!!

[@brandielee7971]

That would depend on how you're going to use this. She's using it as underwear for a historical costume, so it's likely made of tightwoven cotton. If you want to use it as outwear for a Ren Faire, you'll likely want to look at tapestry and upholstery fabrics. Satin or silk woukd be fine to, but you'd need to make it four layers I'd think, two inner cotton layers for the boning, the lining against your skin would likely want to be cotton as well, with the decorative satin/silk fabric on the outside.

[@AmyTheJawsTerminator]

I believe I may be larger than your pattern sizes (Simplicity's sizes are much smaller). How would I add and adjust the pieces so it will fit me + have negative ease? I am about 6 inch bigger in the bust, 12 inch bigger in the waist, about 3 or 4 inch bigger in the hips, and I think I am longer in the backwaist but I am unsure. I can always PM you if that's better. Thank you! 💖💖

[@sublimnalphish7232]

PhantomhiveSass you may be ablento get your answers for a youtube channel called "corset academy" she is russian so you will have to watch closely . What I think you should do is take the amounts and put them on each piece in divided portions. Like for each panel and the inches spread throughout each piece of the stays. So at 44inches +6 with a 6 panel patters per side would be 1 inch at the bust line so on so forth. Im not a teacher but watch that channel over and over she is good .

[@halflifelover777]

You may also want to check out the JP Ryan patterns. I just got mine in the mail today and I'm very excited. The sizes go up a little bigger than the other 18th c patterns that I have seen and there are detailed instructions included on how to alter and adjust the patterns to fit your specific measurements. For reference I am a typical dress size 18 or so depending on the brand and I got either the largest or second largest pattern.

[@meoueo]

stays and corsets over shifts look so hot

[@AmericanDuchess1]

hubba hubba :-D

[@rebeccaharden2196]

I love your stays and the chemise. What did you make the chemise out of?I am very short waisted. Can we shorten the stays?

[@AmericanDuchess1]

This chemise was made out of a very thin linen. I replaced it shortly after this video with a sturdier linen, which I recommend. Yup, you can shorten the stays as needed. Here's a post on how to do it - blog.americanduchess.com/2018/01/how-to-lengthenshorten-18th-century.html

[@sabrinakamuf5628]

if a person's bust size is a 38 and their waist a 35 should they make a size 16 in the stays

[@AmericanDuchess1]

my general rule of thumb is to go with the larger size you'll need and make a cardboard mockup (taped together) to check fit, then you can take in and let out where needed.

[@sabrinakamuf5628]

@@AmericanDuchess1 thank you

[@brittconn177]

How thin can the outer layer on your stays be?

[@christinemec8295]

Where should the stays fall on your waist? My tabs start at my natural waistline but I found after a full day of wearing them my lower back hurt. Should I add length?

[@AmericanDuchess1]

the top of the tabs should be right about your waistline and the tabs should flare out from your wait over your hips at top.

[@iluvhcr1]

Did you use what the pattern recommends for the boning? I don't think it'll be supportive enough with only plastic boning

[@kanayamaryamwhatsittoyah]

XxLuckyxX plastic boning is plenty supportive plus helps mold to your body with heat. I would suggest filing down the edges to make them round as to not rip through the fabric.

[@thorunns.craftstudio]

so when making stays from a commercial pattern like this one, is it advisable to size down from the size you would normally make for yourself? for instance, say i normally make the size 22...should i make a size 20? or even a size 18? TIA

[@AmericanDuchess1]

multiple sizes do come in the envelope. I recommend cutting both sizes and then making a cardboard mockup to test the fit. Then you can get a perfect fit.

[@juanitahoutman9181]

Is there also a clip of the whole dressing process I know they wear stays but but about how many petticoats, bumroll normally dress I'm a bit confused on how and what to make to get a complete outfit

[@AmericanDuchess1]

yes, we have three videos that show getting dressed in the 18th century, for three different decades 1750 - 1770 Robe a la Francaise - kzbin.info/www/bejne/d3S2nKaHorp4iNk 1770 - 1780 Robe a la Polonaise - kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqCXemugfJKnm5Y 1780 - 1790 Robe a l'Anglaise - kzbin.info/www/bejne/kGHVnaFpibqilcU

[@juanitahoutman9181]

@@AmericanDuchess1 just one more question. I'm making simplicity 8161. How does the B version stay out like that? As mine has no fullness as show on the package photo. I'm I missing another Petticoat?

[@julianafrangella2306]

Can I make the stay higher cut in any way so that it is wearable in day to day just for fun?

[@AmericanDuchess1]

Do you mean higher in the bust? Yup, you can add on to the neckline as much as you would like.

[@lovelessOuO]

Is there a digital version of this pattern????

[@AmericanDuchess1]

there might be on the Simplicity website

[@lovelessOuO]

@@AmericanDuchess1 thank you!!! 😊 💖 💖 💖

[@sydneylokant4096]

What year(s) are these inspired by? 17?

[@eloisearnold3167]

What size should you cut if you’re between two sizes?

[@AmericanDuchess1]

Cut the larger size, then make a cardboard mockup and fit out the excess. It's always better to have a bit too much to fit out than not enough!

[@tamaranurthazha]

I hope you read this, because is there any way i could pay and download the pattern instead? I live in Indonesia and the shipping cost is very pricey but i really want a good stays pattern. Please help me find alternative ways i could get this :(

[@AmericanDuchess1]

Hrm, it looks like the digital download from Simplicity's website is no longer offered. I think you may be able to find this pattern on Etsy, eBay, or possibly even in Indonesia from a private seller. This might help with shipping.

[@faeriero3638]

How would i go about lengthening it

[@AmericanDuchess1]

here's a handy blog post - blog.americanduchess.com/2018/01/how-to-lengthenshorten-18th-century.html#:~:text=If%20your%20stays%20are%20too,need%20to%20lengthen%20the%20stays.

[@faeriero3638]

@@AmericanDuchess1 thankyou 😊

[@MarieCarro]

The link to this pattern doesn't lead to the product anymore. Has it been discontinued or temporarily sold out? I would love to buy this pattern :)

[@AmericanDuchess1]

thank you for letting me know! We have it here: www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/simplicity-pattern-8162-18th-century-underpinnings?variant=35802354516118

[@MarieCarro]

@@AmericanDuchess1 thank you!!

[@AlishaDig]

What do u do if your body measurements span multiple sizes and go off chart ?

[@AmericanDuchess1]

The Simplicity patterns have multiple sizes in one packet, so you can connect the lines for a bigger or smaller bust with a bigger or smaller waist, etc. There are instructions in the pattern for doing this. If a larger size is needed, a good way to start is by making a cardboard mockup of the stays in the largest size and add extra seam allowance onto all the edges. Then you can make adjustments - add, subtract where necessary.

[@AlishaDig]

American Duchess thank I remember y’all saying this has negative ease. But don’t remember if y’all said How much does it have does it take u in a lot as I’m not squishy

[@ZoeyCLR78]

Do these stays support good posture in the shoulder area ?

[@AmericanDuchess1]

I feel they do, if you tie the straps tightly enough

[@ZoeyCLR78]

@@AmericanDuchess1 I was look at a few stays that have high backs and waistcoast corsets, but I feel they would be too warm in the summer months. Your stays are a bit lower in the back so that's why I asked. 😅 Thank you for the response! 😊

[@nevelynvalentine4578]

Hi! What type of boning do you recommend?

[@AmericanDuchess1]

I recommend either german plastic whalebone or zip ties. You can also use reed.

[@jmonie8346]

Any idea how I can purchase patterns from simplicity please? I’m in Ghana

[@camillaaston2495]

One way you could go about it is finding the pattern on EBay or on Etsy from independent sellers. I’m not sure if those are available in Ghana

[@faeriero3638]

I'm usually a size 6 or 8 in clothing but my measurements are telling me I'm a 14 for this pattern. I feel thats going to be too big

[@AmericanDuchess1]

dressmaking sizing is way different from in-store sizing. My recommendation is to cut the size 14 out in cardboard, tape it together, and try it on, then make adjustments. The 14 will most likely be a little big for you, but you can take it in and then adjust your pattern to fit exactly.

[@mindymoyer9600]

What diameter eyelets do you use?

[@AmericanDuchess1]

These are size 00

[@mindymoyer9600]

@@AmericanDuchess1 Thank you

[@cheyennepetersen3417]

Have you (or anyone) made any videos for the 8579 pattern? I'm starting the stays for that now and there were a few helpful tips in this video series but I'm having a hard time finding a really good, comprehensive video to guide me through it

[@AmericanDuchess1]

We didn't make a video specifically for 8579 but there is a post on the blog for a bit that might be helpful - blog.americanduchess.com/2018/01/how-to-lengthenshorten-18th-century.html

[@pilesofpeonies]

Does anyone know if this would work for someone with bigger breasts? (Mine are low DDs)

[@marthabenner6528]

How can I lift the front two panels bye a minimalist 3 inches, I don't mind cleavage sence it's under something, but I at least want it to cover the nipples, make the breast bigger without making the waist bigger on the front side panels, I think you said something about an s shape. and make the waist longer by like an inch. I tried changing it in the mock-ups but they kind of turned into a Eldritch monster. Please help.

[@AmericanDuchess1]

Hi Martha - you can lengthen the waist with the instructions here: blog.americanduchess.com/2018/01/how-to-lengthenshorten-18th-century.html For raising the neckline, I recommend adding a couple inches to the top of the pattern pieces, along the same curve. You can always cut this off later, it just gives you room to work and redraw/remark the new neckline exactly where you want it.

[@marthabenner6528]

Thank you

[@marthabenner6528]

For the breast I added gossett's to the front and altered the pattern and used the next size up for the side front panels.

[@marthabenner6528]

I solve the low bust with filler lace.

[@dburgd99]

Hello! I recently purchased this pattern and I have completed the Chemise and the bum pad. Not too difficult lol.. However it is going to be my first attempt at the corset and i have a question about the Coutile fabric.It is very expensive at $24 and up a HALF yard on amazon. Is there an alternative fabric you might suggest? I understand if I was to get into corset making i would purchase the correct fabric but for my first attempt I just cant spend that. Hope you can help or someone out there could share some experience with other fabrics. Thank you!

[@AmericanDuchess1]

dburgd99 yes you can use heavy twill, Jean, duck, or even mattress ticking

[@sublimnalphish7232]

You can make corsets from any fabric. Natural is better for being breathable and you can find many of them so much cheaper by shopping around. I have found cotton fabrics for 1.15 for 2 yards but it was starting bid. I have won any of 2 to 3 yards for just that price as no one bid against me. But fabric outlets or discount places sell much cheaper. I have been lucky enough to find real silf for under 10$ a yard and as cheap at 1.14 for 2 yards. One is a rral silk brocade (this was a very rare find) . Shop around.

[@nicholewarren4229]

Cotton buckram is on the sturdier and less flexible side but it works really well for interfacing!

[@bhavens9149]

that seems too low for a larger chest, a larger chest does NOT necessarily mean larger waist. thinking there might be other adjustments that might be needed.

[@JenInOz]

where can you buy coutil?i asked at two local stores in Melbourne Australia(one is a chain likejoanns, the other had more specialized fabrics) and neither knew what coutil was, let alone where to buy it...

[@agelesstailoress]

I live the USA but, I went online to corsetmaking.com to buy my coutil for my stays. I believe that they ship to Austraila. Hope that helps. :)

[@keyboardsaviour]

Jen Stosser another Melbourne Australia enthusiast!!

[@SeerWalker]

another here for the pack!

[@TheDragonfriday]

Kinda funny that back then stays are meant to be worn inside your cloth. But they do a lot better when they’re out. I seen these sometime in anime. I been wondering what that outfit is called. I just found out the name just by chance. Anyways I find stays pretty cute.

[@AlexDesise]

Stays and corsets are today's equivalent to bras, no one in those days (much like today) would go outside in their underwear. 😂 The shift/chemise is the equivalent to an undershirt/panties.

[@chloexianah3070]

Do you always have a cold?

[@catherinelepriol7800]

Decolte

[@labananiere]

Tu est fort belle de chez belle avec le corset Attention au coiffeur tondeur-teinturier, et pire encor le tatoueur le pire ennemi de ta beauté..

[@In_time]

Thumbnail shows a skirt... Vid shows nothing of a skirt 🤨

[@TheSavvyGeekInGlasses2301]

It's actually a petticoat, not a skirt. She explains why she's wearing the stays over the petticoat at 0:34 and demonstrates with the thumbnail at 0:45