SG1 Pacifica AWD to 2WD

Shifting Gears Episode 1 - 2007 Chrysler Pacifica AWD to 2WD conversion.
In this episode, we remove the transfer case and convert the Pacifica into a front wheel drive vehicle. The bearing in the transfer case has seized up and caused the gears to bind, break, and destroy the housing. IMPORTANT ADDITION:
VERY IMPORTANT! Two things we forgot to mention: When installing the 2WD axle seal, the original AWD seal's bolts will not be long enough. Make sure to install bolts that are a little longer! ALSO, the intermediate shaft or "jack shaft" is different for the FWD vs. the AWD. You will have to replace this part as well as the transmission mount and transmission seal with housing!
To see all our episodes, check out our website, KZbin channel, and Facebook page. The links are below. Please subscribe to our channel and like us on Facebook! Thanks for watching!
www.tatteredsai...
/ tatteredsailspics
/ tatteredsailspictures

[@ialta7298]

One of the best videos I seen so far. You save me a lot of money. I was scratching my head because this is the only vehicle we have. Everybody wants more than $1,000 for a used transfer case. I don't have time for that or the money. Especially going to keep blowing up. Has a DIY, thank you !!! I can finally Breathe Again

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Glad we could help! To answer your previous question, the seal with housing is the axle seal for the FWD transmission. Ken just calls it a seal in the video, but I added the "housing" to the description since the part from Chrysler includes the aluminum piece that surrounds the axle seal itself. Don't forget that this housing needs bolts that are a quarter to a half inch longer (either should work). Those two things and possibly exhaust gaskets (if you find yours in bad shape when you take them off) are the only new parts you need. The intermediate shaft (or jack shaft as Ken calls it in the video) and the transmission bracket can come out of a junkyard. They almost never go bad. If you can't find any in a junkyard near you, check out www.car-part.com. They usually have pretty good deals on used parts. Hope the conversion goes well for you! Thanks for watching and commenting! Please subscribe to us if you haven't already, we've got more episodes coming!

[@donovanlucibello379]

It is obvious that you like to teach. Thank you for taking the time to make this video 🙏

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Thank you so much! Thanks for taking the time to watch it.

[@williamgrissom9022]

Very detailed video. Quite different than my 2002 T&C AWD, though mine can also be converted to 2WD by changing the right output housing on the A604 transmission and right driveshaft. But, I've seen rebuilt transfer cases drop greatly in price lately, so would probably just replace it to keep the AWD. No problems yet at 295K miles.

[@michaelmorris6575]

Awesome video! I just bought an 08 Pacifica with a bad carrier bearing in the drive shaft and a bad transfer case. I followed your directions and I now have a 2WD Pacifica. The only thing that I did different was with the transmission mount. I could not find a used one anywhere and the local dealer wanted over $400. I gutted my old transfer case and modified it to use as a mount. It worked great. Keep the videos coming. Have a great day! Thanks again.

[@TatteredSailsPics]

That's fantastic! So glad we were able to help! Thanks for watching. We've got much more coming!

[@ADDMEONPSN]

Im working on converting my 08 Avenger 3.5L fwd to awd this video helped so much thank you !!

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Excellent! Glad we could help!

[@jlucena100]

You guys are awesome, you did a very professional job, I own a 2005 Pacifica AWD, and the driveshaft carrier bearing are shot, both of them, causing vibration when accelerating, if I simply remove the drive shaft, is there any cover plate I have to place over on both the transfer case and rear end? I am afraid dirt my make its way inside somewhere on those holes.

[@TatteredSailsPics]

In our case on the '07 model, the driveshaft just bolted to flanges on the transfer case and rear end. There was no toothed gear to insert through a seal as there is on many vehicles. If your '05 model is the same underneath as our '07 was, you can unbolt the driveshaft and take it out without any loss of fluid since everything is external. The seals on the transfer case and rear end will remain intact. You will not need a cover plate. Thanks for watching!

[@jamiemartinello6436]

Great video! What did you end up doing with the rear differential? I have a Pacifica... Love the car, but they are a bloody nightmare to fix! I ended up just removing the driveshaft because the hanger bearings were gone. DaimlerChrysler made nothing easy on these cars! lol

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Thanks for watching, glad you liked it! To answer your question, Ken left the rear differential alone after taking out the driveshaft. The reason was simply to avoid the time and work to take the diff and axles out, since they aren't hurting anything to leave them in. If you're interested in more info about it, you can reach him at [e-mail].

[@shelbyrigsby1870]

Thank you so much for your help. Best video I’ve watch for this.

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Thank you very much and thanks for watching!

[@jamjankjj]

Muy bien... espectacular el video. Desde spain me ha gustado mucho voy a intentar solucionar una igual con una grand Voyager.

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Glad we could help! Good luck with your Voyager and thanks for watching!

[@boopunn]

I know this post has been around a while but is there any issues with the car being in park and rolling with the transaxle out? I know some vehicles will not engage in park without the awd. I want to do this as I just changed a used unit and failed within 100 miles and now im out the money on the transaxle and dont want to try another. thnaks

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Nope. No issues with that on the Pacifica.

[@boopunn]

@@TatteredSailsPics Great. Thanks for the reply

[@cliffordcollins9607]

can engine be removed by unbolting the radiator support?

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Ken tells me the procedure for removing the motor calls for dropping it from underneath with the subframe, not pulling it from the top. I would assume the radiator would stay with the body.

[@rgarcia9124]

This seems to be a common problem and since I’m doing the repairs myself cheaper to go this route than to get a new transfer case. Could you please provide the part numbers for the seal, bolts, and motor mount?

[@TatteredSailsPics]

The part number for the transmission bracket is 04880279AJ. This is a Chrysler part number. Ken is out of the shop this week, but as soon as he gets back we'll get the other part numbers for you.

[@TatteredSailsPics]

The part number for the housing with seal is 05078687AA. Ken says the part number for the bolts is wrong. The best thing to do would be to take the original bolts to the part store and get the same size bolts - just half an inch longer. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!

[@filipkotecki]

You have to replace one more thing - Intermediate Shaft from AWD to FWD 4809916AC

[@jgrijalva1998]

So looking at your video to change axle seal pasemger side I don't have to remove the ptu ?

[@TatteredSailsPics]

If all that is wrong is the seal and you are replacing it with an identical seal, then no, you will not need to remove the PTU. You will only have to remove the axle and intermediate shaft to access the seal.

[@jgrijalva1998]

@@TatteredSailsPics further inspection it's actually coming from ptu -to- transmission adapter ..

[@monkeebizz5997]

My friend just bought one of these pieces of junk and luckily they mentioned something about it making noises that sound like scraping or gear whine and i noticed gear oil leaking out of the drivers side of the rear unit so i guess i will disconnect the driveshaft for them before it self destructs. Looks to me that since this free trade that was brought in by Clintons automotive defects have gotten worse and i see no hope for any future progress in anything except maybe atrocities progressing to the scales greater than the holocaust of wwii ? You are a real joy to watch as you work so hard on such a waste of automotive efforts by chryslers idiocy.

[@jeffpayton1738]

Great video ken

[@kenbaker1942]

Thank You!!

[@Low23Key]

How much would a job like this cost? I have a 2011 Dodge Journey AWD and my differential/transfer case is leaking bad.

[@TatteredSailsPics]

The cost varies far too much to give you any kind of ballpark number. If you are doing the job yourself, it would simply be whatever price the junkyard could get you on the parts. Junkyard prices are going to vary greatly based on availability, location, and part condition. If you are looking to have a shop do the job, it would depend on what the shop's labor rates are, what kind of deal the shop could get on the junkyard parts, and if the shop would be willing to take on the job. This is not a manufacturer sanctioned repair, so some shops might refuse to do it simply because they couldn't guarantee a warranty on it. Ken tells me a shop would most likely charge anywhere from 10-12 hours in labor. Obviously, you will save a ton of money doing the job yourself. Otherwise, you can call your local shop and ask them what their labor rates are to give you a better idea. The part numbers that you need are listed here in the other comments. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!

[@amd6570]

If the transfer case was still good could you leave it in and just remove the driveshaft? Would it harm anything?

[@TatteredSailsPics]

On these Pacificas with flanges that the drive shaft bolts to, yes, you could remove the driveshaft and be okay. If it is a vehicle with a splined driveshaft that inserts into the transfer case through a seal, then no, you would end up losing all your fluid and locking up the transfer case/transmission. Be aware, if your problem is not in the driveshaft or u-joints but in the rear differential or rear axles, taking out the driveshaft won't fix the problem.

[@maryh_09]

I have a 2007 Chrysler Pacifica and it will drive fine but will not reverse. Any ideas?

[@TatteredSailsPics]

If you are not hearing grinding noises (indication of broken gears), the first step to take would be to check the transmission fluid level. Unfortunately, there is no dipstick on the Pacifica, so you will either have to buy a dipstick tool (such as Dorman part # 917-327) or take it to a mechanic that has one. If the fluid is low, top it off with the proper fluid and see what happens - also check for leaks under the vehicle. If the fluid level is ok but dirty, you might need to do a trans service to change the fluid and filter. If you see metallic flakes on the dipstick, you've got internal damage and you will be looking at a rebuild or replacement. Aside from low or dirty fluid, the other probable causes are something a transmission shop will have to diagnose as the transmission will most likely have to be taken apart to see what is going on. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!

[@nurseratchet8535]

Great episode. Wpuld like to have gotten a bit more light under there to show the job. Great for a first episode. Keep up the good work.

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Thank you very much and thanks for watching!

[@RattleBoxMedia]

Great video!! I just bought one of those and stumbled on this vid. Now I know what to listen for if it has any issues with the transfer case. Hope not cause that doesn't look easy to convert over. Unless you have a lift of course!

[@TatteredSailsPics]

You would definitely get comfortable using your creeper if you were doing this on jack stands. Not impossible, but not fun at all. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!

[@franciscocampos4254]

8:25 18!? 17😅 nha u 👍👌👏

[@darrinsantiago1374]

I was wondering what's the part # for the new seal as I am getting ready to do just what You did going from all wheel to front wheel ty

[@TatteredSailsPics]

You will need 3 parts for the conversion. The seal will need to be new, but you can get the transmission bracket and the intermediate shaft from a junk yard since these parts rarely go bad. Be aware that these part numbers are for a 2007 Pacifica with the 4.0 motor. You can check www.moparpartsgiant.com for numbers for your vehicle if you have a different motor or year. Axle seal with housing - 5078687AA Transmission mount bracket - 4880279AJ Intermediate/jack shaft - 4809916AC Also be aware that you will need longer bolts for the new seal - a quarter to half an inch longer. We also replaced the exhaust gaskets though you may not need to depending on what kind of shape they are in. Good luck, hope the conversion goes well, and thanks for watching!

[@darrinsantiago3110]

How did you get the back catalytic converter out

[@TatteredSailsPics]

After he got the axle, intermediate/jack shaft, and transfer case out of the way, he was able to snake it out in front of the subframe. Pretty much all the exhaust bolts were loose or out except for the ones around the catalytic converter.

[@darrinsantiago3110]

@@TatteredSailsPics Thank you very much i have a 07 with a bad transfer case thinking of swapping out the case for another one what do you thing or make it 2 wheel drive??

[@TatteredSailsPics]

It really depends on how much you want to spend vs. capability/resale value and what the problem is. If it is a gearing problem, you might be able to find a transmission shop that can take it apart and repair it. If it exploded and destroyed the housing like ours, you're looking into a new/re-manufactured or used one. Even re-manufactured transfer cases are incredibly expensive. However, not replacing it and making it 2WD will obviously lose the extra drive wheels which might be bad if you live in a place with bad road conditions. It will also hurt the resale value since you've made serious drivetrain modifications. If yours can be repaired for a reasonable price or you can find a cheap low-mileage used one, it might be better to fix or replace. If you plan on keeping it, want to save money, and aren't worried about the AWD capability, follow this video. For the few junkyard parts we had to buy (2WD axle seal with housing, 2WD transmission mount bracket, and 2WD intermediate/jack shaft) we ended up spending less than $200 where replacing the transfer case completely could have cost a couple of thousand. Hope this info helps! And if you do decide to make it 2WD, the bolts that come off the AWD axle seal housing are a little too short. You'll want the same diameter and thread, but about a half inch longer. Thanks for watching! Please subscribe to us if you haven't already.

[@ialta7298]

What is transmission seal with housing?

[@autobot3612]

I have a 2009 Dodge Journey and I'm going to be doing this same repair. Were there any issues with the electronics of the vehicle after the conversion? Lights on the dash, PCM reprogramming needed, wheel speed sensors, or any other indicator that the AWD components had been removed?

[@TatteredSailsPics]

The Pacifica we worked on in the video had an all-time constant power AWD system. It did not have electronically controlled variable power distribution or drivetrain controlled traction control. I know it had front ABS, but I can't remember if it had rear ABS. I don't know if it had traction control, but if it did, it was definitely ABS controlled. So in the case of the Pacifica, nothing on the PCM or TCM was affected by removing the driveshaft and transfer case. It was pretty much the most basic AWD system a vehicle can have. As far as we remember, the conversion on this did not throw any codes, nor did we have any warning lights on the dash. The customer never had any complaints after the job - it came back to us for a leak, which was when we found that the original AWD passenger axle seal housing bolts were about a quarter-inch too short for the FWD housing. After replacing those, everything was fine. Not sure if the Journey is set up the same way. I will try to find out some more info for you at the shop, but in the mean time, you might want to look through some forums to see if anyone has done a successful conversion on the Journey without any electronic or computer issues.

[@TatteredSailsPics]

With a little research I found that there is a transfer case control module on those, so removing it completely will definitely throw codes. Don't know if it will just be passive DTC's with lights on the dash or if it will actually put the vehicle in limp mode. Our transmission guy said he's pretty sure you can't flash the PCM on those to trick it into thinking it is a 2WD. If you do the conversion, you will most likely have to have a 2WD intermediate shaft, seal housing, and transmission mount like we did. Unfortunately, I don't have any solutions on the computer side. Hopefully you can find more info on forums. Thanks for watching and good luck!

[@goeatapizza2572]

how many hours did this take from driving it in to driving it out

[@TatteredSailsPics]

About 10 hours all together.

[@MarieLovely143]

Did you have to use a longer axle for passenger side.

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Yes. When we shot the second part of the video, we forgot that we had a different intermediate shaft. That's why we put a warning about it and longer seal bolts in the video description. The FWD shaft is longer to compensate for the lack of transfer case. If it helps, the Chrysler part number we needed for our model year Pacifica was 4809916AC. If you have a different model year vehicle or a different motor than the 4.0 liter, check www.moparpartsgiant.com for the part number you need - make sure to select FWD instead of AWD. They have great parts break-down lists with diagrams and updated part numbers. On the seal bolts, a half inch longer bolt will do fine (our Pacifica came back to us leaking from the seal because there wasn't enough of the bolt threaded into each hole to get a good, tight seal). Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!

[@zachdelong9411]

Is there anyway you can tell me the exact parts and names of the parts from a fwd that I will need for my 2007 awd? Can seem to find the rear engine mount you mentioned

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Transmission Mount Bracket - 4880279AJ 2WD Axle Seal/Housing - 5078687AA FWD Intermediate Shaft/Jack Shaft - 4809916AC Those are Chrysler part numbers for a 2007 Pacifica with a 4.0 liter motor. If you have a different motor, the parts will most likely be different. Chrysler may call these parts something different, but these are the part numbers you will need. Also, make sure to take one of the seal/housing bolts to a hardware store and get bolts that are a quarter to a half an inch longer. Otherwise you won't be able to get the seal tight enough and it will leak. You can also find all the part numbers, descriptions, and diagrams at www.moparpartsgiant.com. We didn't show it in the video, but we replaced the exhaust manifold gasket when we put the exhaust back in the vehicle. I'm not sure what the part number was, but you can get that based on the vehicle VIN since you are not changing anything on the motor itself. And one last thing - if you are doing this yourself and planning to get a transmission dipstick to check your level, the Dorman part number in the video is wrong. The one you need is Dorman # 917-327. Hope this helps, good luck, and thanks for watching!

[@zachdelong9411]

Tattered Sails Pictures thank you!

[@marie9219]

I have a 2004 AWD Chrysler Pacifica and the bearings on the drive shaft are bad. My husband has been so many junkyards and when he finds one they have the same problem. He wants to switch it to a 2wd any advice?

[@TatteredSailsPics]

You can make it 2WD simply by removing the driveshaft. It won't affect any of the vehicle systems since the Pacifica's AWD system is full-time on a single gear ratio and doesn't transfer different ratios of power based on driving conditions as some AWD vehicles do now. The driveshaft unbolts from flanges on both the transfer case and rear end, so you don't have to worry about any leaks. Once you unbolt it from both ends and take out the carrier bearing bracket, you should be good to go!

[@marie9219]

@@TatteredSailsPics thank you so much! I love my car and didn't want to get rid of it. I'll be subscribing. I enjoyed your video so informative!

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Great to hear! Thanks for watching!

[@ixevaztyan]

Isn't easier to just get a use unit and get it fixed?

[@TatteredSailsPics]

R&R time would be about the same. Would replacement be better? Sure - you would keep your AWD functionality. But this method is more for cost saving. Even a used transfer case isn't cheap.

[@marioarellano8241]

Awesome video, just not clear, did you install a jack shaft and cv axle for a 2wd pacifica.

[@marioarellano8241]

looking at the viedeo at the minute 20:24 he shows a jack shaft that he pulled of the vehicle and at the minute 33:14 he is instaling a diferent one than the one he shows before. Im about ready to start doing my 2008 pacifica due to the transfercase blown and I want to be sure I get all the parts I need first, thanks for your response. MARIO

[@TatteredSailsPics]

I stand corrected. Ken thought he used original parts, but I went back to the raw footage and you are correct. The intermediate shaft is specific to FWD vs. AWD. I had another person comment about this part that I also told wrong. That person said 4809916AC was the part number for the intermediate shaft. Found a good website for you to check the number on - www.moparpartsgiant.com You can easily see if that will work for your engine/package option layout. Thanks for bringing this to my attention, I'll make a note of it in the description.

[@LadyGrayBand]

Hello from Russia! Video is greater and the topic is extremely interesting for me. In my case I'm going to upgrade my 2wd pacifica (2004) to awd. I have bought everything: all rear mechanisms, drive shaft, transfer unit and right front axile. But I have not bought a side cover for transaxle. I'm not sure if changing the cover will be enough for awd to work with my transmission or should I change differential inside it as well. Could you please give me a piece of advice except buying awd car? :)

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Thanks for watching! Not sure what you mean about a transaxle cover - the transfer case bolts directly to the transmission and the axles mate to the transfer case. In your case, you will need the proper axle seal for the passenger axle (it is different for the 2WD vs. AWD), the intermediate shaft for an AWD vehicle, and the smaller bracket for the transmission. If you have access to the website, all original Chrysler parts numbers for what you need are available at moparpartsgiant.com. They also have diagrams and parts lists. Make sure to indicate on the website that you are looking at parts for the AWD Pacifica, not the 2WD. Hope this helps and good luck with your project!

[@LadyGrayBand]

@@TatteredSailsPics I was talking about the part you are holding in left hand at 27:11. I cant find part number for it and also I have no idea how this part is called. Could you please write name of this part or (if it's not a problem) exact part number?

[@TatteredSailsPics]

The name of this part is the "transmission extension assembly" and it is necessary for the conversion on the 6-speed 62TE transmission our 2007 model had. However, the 2004 model only had the 4-speed 41TE/41AE transmission. As far as I have seen in all the diagrams I have looked through on moparpartsgiant.com, mymoparparts.com, and the actual full service manual for the 2004 model year Pacifica, there is no transmission extension assembly between the transmission and the transfer case (or power transfer unit, as Chrysler likes to call it). The diagrams show a plate that is bolted to the transmission, but there is no part number or anything that points to a replaceable part. So, the only thing I can assume is that it is actually considered part of the transmission case itself. That would mean that the plate would be the same for the 2WD and AWD for the 4-speed 41TE/41AE transmissions. So, in your case, you would only need the seal that goes between the transmission and the transfer case, which is part number 5134902AA. We have not attempted this conversion with the 41TE/41AE transmission, so this advice should not be considered absolutely correct. The best advice would be to purchase the seal, put it in, and see if the transfer case will bolt to the transmission without any gaps. If it does, you should be good to go. If it does not, you might want to do some other research to find out if anyone has done this conversion with your transmission and what worked for them.

[@LadyGrayBand]

​@@TatteredSailsPics Hello! My car has 41-series transmission, but I've made it! I had to replace my differential with differential from AWD vehicle. Also I had replaced the seal between transmission and PTU. Everything works! Thank you :)

[@moparmaniac1974]

Great video. Question for you, can you see back bell housing bolt with the transfer case still in the car?

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Honestly, I'm not sure. After reviewing the video several times, the bolt above it should be easy enough to get to from the top if you take off the transfer case mount. And it looks like you might be able to get to the other one by going from underneath, but you will definitely have to remove the exhaust section below it to get to it. Where the transfer case was definitely coming off on ours and we were not removing the transmission, we didn't pay close attention to the location or access of those bolts when we shot the video. So, unfortunately, that's the best information I can give you.

[@moparmaniac1974]

@@TatteredSailsPics No worries, we ended up pulling the rear head off the engine, from the looks of things...transfer case has gotta come out, which at the end of the day is fine. This is a project vehicle so I'd much rather pull it to replace the bearing/seal that failed on the vehicle in this video while everything is apart.

[@Quickwa1]

What would prevent you from just removing the rear drive shaft? Assuming the t case is not blown up. I have one with a bad drive shaft and it's expensive.

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Absolutely nothing. If the problem is "south" of the transfer case and just the driveshaft, as in your situation, removing that piece should solve your problem.

[@Quickwa1]

@@TatteredSailsPics thanks! This was the route we had to take for a customer. They weren't willing to spend close to 2k for a new one and we weren't exactly comfortable with the idea of putting a used one in due to the widespread failures there seem to be.

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Glad we could help! Thanks for watching!

[@classicv8dude268]

@@TatteredSailsPics I also did this but I have some vibration at 50 then gets a little worse above that speed. I just removed the drive shaft. I’d like to know if there’s some kind of counter balance thing I could put on

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Not that we are aware of. But before you look too far into the drive train, check your tires. We have seen many cars that get a vibration around that speed that ends up being a tire balance problem or a tire that is starting to come apart. Unfortunately, with the current restrictions on tire compounds, we generally see tires starting to go bad within 3-5 years. You could also have a bent wheel or something going on in the steering or suspension. There shouldn't be any kind of drive line vibration without a decent amount of noise associated with it (as bad bearings in the pinion or gearing would cause). We always start checking the cheapest repair items first - tires, sway bar links, shocks/struts, tie rods, wheel hubs, etc.

[@blake67]

Ok I have the same vehicle. Now my driveshaft is shot however after seeing this video can I just removed the driveshaft to make it 2wd as you did?

[@TatteredSailsPics]

Yes, you can. Just be aware that your transfer case will still be turning with the transmission, so you still might have the problem we had somewhere down the road. If the driveshaft is the only problem, it won't hurt to take it out. But you might be able to find a junkyard one for relatively cheap and get your AWD capability back.

[@erickgarciagel3480]

@@TatteredSailsPicsi have the same problem 2008 pacifica with drive shaft bad i can remove it and nothing is going to leak from there?

[@TatteredSailsPics]

If it is set up like our 2007 model in the video, the driveshaft is bolted to a flange on the transfer case. It does not have a splined end that pulls out of the transfer case leaving a dripping hole like a lot of vehicles. So taking the driveshaft off shouldn't change anything about the seal on the transfer case - it sits ahead of the flange. You can remove the driveshaft without worrying about a leak. If you want to see a good shot showing the setup, look at the 12 minute mark in the video.

[@erickgarciagel3480]

@@TatteredSailsPics yes it looks the same shaft sits ahead of the flange, so you think i need to remove my rear differential and rear axles because is leaking from both sides and one side is no serviceable or i be ok just by taking away my prop shaft?

[@TatteredSailsPics]

It looks like the rear axles are splined and insert into the wheel hub assembly as opposed to bolting on. So for the bearing in the hub assembly to work properly, it will need the pressure from the inserted axle. Removing the axles could possibly cause the hub assembly to come apart. So, DO NOT remove the rear axles or rear differential. A little bit of seeping leak is no problem, just top off the gear oil in the rear differential every now and then.

[@Big3dge101]

Awesome video! I'm having trouble finding the rear mount braket what year make and model would we find it off ? I find front weel drive Pacificas but not with that bracket mount??

[@TatteredSailsPics]

The mount Ken found was specific to the model year and transmission of our Pacifica - 2007. You will want to do the same for your search. They could vary between model years and transmissions. I'm not sure if that same bracket is used for other Chrysler models, but for our particular year and transmission the part number from Chrysler for the FWD bracket is 04880279AJ. Ken then had the junk yard find us a matching one. www.moparpartsgiant.com is a good place to check for your specific numbers.

[@Big3dge101]

@@TatteredSailsPics O ok makes sense, and thanks for replying back