On the HHR, all warning sounds are controlled by the body control module and output to the front left door speaker. If yours is not making a sound, I would check the speaker first to see if it is working. If it is working, the little circuit board in the turn signal stalk itself might be damaged, in which case the switch (stalk) would need to be replaced. If these two less expensive solutions don't solve the problem, then the body control module will be the last resort. Most likely it would need a reprogram unless parts of the circuit board are fried, in which case it would need to be replaced and the new one programmed. Also, one thing to think about is that the daytime running lights are on by default. When you turn off the car, they stay on for 30 seconds to a minute and they won't cause a warning sound. Try turning the lights on manually with the car on, turn the car off, take the key out of the ignition and open the door. This is when you should hear the warning tone.

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Very little adjustment on that equates to a big difference in tightness of turn. Your best bet if you haven't driven it is to get the adjustment back to where it was if you can (try looking at the clean spot on the adjuster bolt where the nut originally was), then adjust it slightly, drive it, adjust it a little more if needed, drive it, rinse and repeat until the steering feels as tight as any other car. You shouldn't have a huge amount of turn with very little input on the steering wheel. If you drive it much with the adjuster fully tightened, it is possible you can destroy the gear box. As long as you didn't drive it far with it adjusted all the way in, you probably haven't done any damage yet.

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The little plastic catch is probably broken or worn down too much to work. There is no fix for that. The switch will have to be replaced. Same process to take out the old one and put a new one in as shown in the video. You just won't be taking the old one apart.

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It will be a different part number, obviously, but yes, it should be the same process for the TJ. The steering components in the Wrangler haven't changed much over the years.

@@TatteredSailsPics Thanks for the fast reply. Much appreciated. Gonna give her a look today

It would be easier to do them one at a time so you have more than just the axle and tie rod holding the knuckle. Also it will help lining things up. Plus, you don't run the risk of ripping out the ABS sensor wire or the brake line as much.

@@TatteredSailsPics No ABS But Thank you.

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Thanks for the comment and we hope you got everything lined up and back together. Thanks for watching!

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If all that is wrong is the seal and you are replacing it with an identical seal, then no, you will not need to remove the PTU. You will only have to remove the axle and intermediate shaft to access the seal.

@@TatteredSailsPics further inspection it's actually coming from ptu -to- transmission adapter ..

There are really only two options. The easy option is to plug a scan tool in and find the steering angle sensor. Get the reading to zero and then push the wheels so they line up straight with the steering shaft before you slip it on. The other option is to pull the steering wheel and clock spring, install the knuckle, then gently turn the steering shaft all the way to lock in one direction, then all the way to lock in the other direction counting the revolutions. Divide the number in half, and you will be at zero. You will probably have to unhook the knuckle again and straighten the wheels to line up with the shaft at zero.

If you have fluid coming out of the driver's side nozzle, you're either going to have a blockage in the passenger hose or a blockage or break in the plastic t-junction where the hoses split to driver/passenger sides. Best bet is to work your way backwards until you find the problem. Pull the hose out of the t-junction and see if you get flow. If so, you know you need to replace the hose. If not, keep working your way back. The only other reason this might be happening is if the pump is starting to fail or has debris built up around it. If the driver's side nozzle seems weaker than usual, you might not be getting the proper flow from the pump. Definitely check that t-junction though. We've had many cars come in where the plastic has cracked or broken off in the hose. Be gentle pulling the hose out, the plastic is rather brittle. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!

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The Pacifica we worked on in the video had an all-time constant power AWD system. It did not have electronically controlled variable power distribution or drivetrain controlled traction control. I know it had front ABS, but I can't remember if it had rear ABS. I don't know if it had traction control, but if it did, it was definitely ABS controlled. So in the case of the Pacifica, nothing on the PCM or TCM was affected by removing the driveshaft and transfer case. It was pretty much the most basic AWD system a vehicle can have. As far as we remember, the conversion on this did not throw any codes, nor did we have any warning lights on the dash. The customer never had any complaints after the job - it came back to us for a leak, which was when we found that the original AWD passenger axle seal housing bolts were about a quarter-inch too short for the FWD housing. After replacing those, everything was fine. Not sure if the Journey is set up the same way. I will try to find out some more info for you at the shop, but in the mean time, you might want to look through some forums to see if anyone has done a successful conversion on the Journey without any electronic or computer issues.

With a little research I found that there is a transfer case control module on those, so removing it completely will definitely throw codes. Don't know if it will just be passive DTC's with lights on the dash or if it will actually put the vehicle in limp mode. Our transmission guy said he's pretty sure you can't flash the PCM on those to trick it into thinking it is a 2WD. If you do the conversion, you will most likely have to have a 2WD intermediate shaft, seal housing, and transmission mount like we did. Unfortunately, I don't have any solutions on the computer side. Hopefully you can find more info on forums. Thanks for watching and good luck!

If the setup on yours is the same as ours in the video, you won't need to get it realigned after doing the rear struts. Usually, rear alignment adjustment is on the control arms, so as long as you don't start unbolting those, you should be good to go.

@@TatteredSailsPics 👍 thanks! Great video by the way, very helpful.

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You would have to have a full service manual or a repair guide program like Alldata or Identifix. Haynes Repair manuals and Chilton repair manuals might have the specs for those bolts, but not sure. However, you really don't have to worry about specific torques for any off these bolts/nuts. They are not pressing on bearings like an axle nut. All of them can be snugged up with a 3/8ths ratchet or a regular wrench. No need to crank down hard on them. The lower strut bolts that attach the knuckle can be tightened with a half-inch ratchet and wrench since they are so much bigger. Also, you don't need threadlocker with any of these bolts.

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Nope. No issues with that on the Pacifica.

@@TatteredSailsPics Great. Thanks for the reply

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Metallic rattling in the rear usually indicates a sign of a loose heat shield around the exhaust. You can check that by banging on the tailpipe or muffler with your fist. If you hear the rattle, that's most likely the culprit. Other than that, the only other thing we can think of is if the top mounts on the struts were not tightened completely and there is movement on the upper bolts when going over bumps. You can take off the plastic covers over the wheel wells inside the vehicle and get someone to ride in the back seat and watch to see if there is movement as you drive. Good luck and hope you find the problem. Thanks for watching and subscribing!

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@@TatteredSailsPics the stabilizer links on the back put up a fight but I won. Thanks again for the video

On these Pacificas with flanges that the drive shaft bolts to, yes, you could remove the driveshaft and be okay. If it is a vehicle with a splined driveshaft that inserts into the transfer case through a seal, then no, you would end up losing all your fluid and locking up the transfer case/transmission. Be aware, if your problem is not in the driveshaft or u-joints but in the rear differential or rear axles, taking out the driveshaft won't fix the problem.

Yeah, sway bar links can be a pain when the threads rust up and the link starts free-spinning with the nut. Glad our video could help you with your repair! Thanks for watching and commenting! It is always good to hear when we can help someone save some money on a repair.

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Excellent! Glad our video could make it a little easier for you! Thanks for watching and commenting!

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R&R time would be about the same. Would replacement be better? Sure - you would keep your AWD functionality. But this method is more for cost saving. Even a used transfer case isn't cheap.

Transmission Mount Bracket - 4880279AJ 2WD Axle Seal/Housing - 5078687AA FWD Intermediate Shaft/Jack Shaft - 4809916AC Those are Chrysler part numbers for a 2007 Pacifica with a 4.0 liter motor. If you have a different motor, the parts will most likely be different. Chrysler may call these parts something different, but these are the part numbers you will need. Also, make sure to take one of the seal/housing bolts to a hardware store and get bolts that are a quarter to a half an inch longer. Otherwise you won't be able to get the seal tight enough and it will leak. You can also find all the part numbers, descriptions, and diagrams at www.moparpartsgiant.com. We didn't show it in the video, but we replaced the exhaust manifold gasket when we put the exhaust back in the vehicle. I'm not sure what the part number was, but you can get that based on the vehicle VIN since you are not changing anything on the motor itself. And one last thing - if you are doing this yourself and planning to get a transmission dipstick to check your level, the Dorman part number in the video is wrong. The one you need is Dorman # 917-327. Hope this helps, good luck, and thanks for watching!

Tattered Sails Pictures thank you!

Yep. That's another good way to do it. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!

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Good to hear. I had squirrels chew up spark plug wires, ABS speed sensor wires, evap tubing, and headlight assembly wiring all at one time on my truck once. I had a few choice words that day. They sure can cause a lot of problems for such small little creatures.

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The process to clean the nozzles out should still be the same. Check to make sure the pump is working if you clean them and still have problems. If your pump works and your nozzles are clean, there is either a blockage in the hose or in the washer fluid bottle itself. You can take the hose off at both ends (cap the nipple on the pump end to keep from draining your washer fluid out) and run warm water or air through it to remove the blockage. If the blockage is in the reservoir bottle, you might have to remove it and rinse it out a few times in a sink.