Sgorbie e scalpelli per la costruzione del violino - Gouges and chisels for violin-making

[@davidc3808]

So much information in such a short video. It’s great to have this video to refer to. Thank you very much for providing this Davide.

[@edmondsinani9465]

It’s so kind of you Maestro Davide, thank you!🙏🙏👏👏❤️❤️💥💥🌹🌹

[@fornermarc4993]

Merci beaucoup pour ces explications, j’enregistre toutes vos vidéos…car j’essaye de construire un violon😢 sacré défi pour moi et aussi pour les outils.. vos vidéos m’aide beaucoup …merci Maître David ❤

[@DavideSora]

Bonne chance avec ton premier violon !🙂

[@fornermarc4993]

@@DavideSora un grand merci 🙏 ❤️

[@atletico5928]

Buongiorno Maestro Davide. Grazie. Spero di incontrarti presto.

[@finarezzo7334]

Bellissimo questo video Davide!! E' molto utile !! Bravissimo!!👏🏻👏🏻❤️🥇❤️👍🏻👍🏻

[@alesson.dantas.liutaio]

Grazie Mille maestro Davide!!!👍😃🎻🎻🎻🎻

[@enricodare835]

Grazie per la miniera di informazioni che condividi

[@ChrisC811]

A fabulous video! Thank you so much for all of this. Your series on tools has been so well done. I can only hope that you will do one on finger planes, those that you find useful and how you may modify them.

[@DavideSora]

Sooner or later I will do it, but if you want you can see them in my videos on the archings and thicknesses: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eaWrdmSGjtGgo8Usi=KCVpT8wE6TcwavlI kzbin.info/www/bejne/o2LLqWWwYs2fr5Ysi=r2PQwacaDOYs89a1 kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXeroHl5rrxmfZIsi=GQksvoSlSNa6_elc kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2HYhIOkh7WUeqssi=jnnOK2G6BkwztLM7

[@ChrisC811]

Thanks!!@@DavideSora The plane bottom in 0.15 is beautifully modified. I will use that photo to modify one of my own.

[@triode2a3]

Grazie mille!

[@jaminvincent5690]

Complimenti come sempre!!! Uso ancora a distanza di 30 anni attrezzatura quando feci ebanisteria. Non posso farne a meno. Solo la pialla ha bisogno di una rettifica.

[@DavideSora]

Anche i miei attrezzi sono praticamente tutti più vecchi di trent'anni. Per questo motivo non ho messo le marche degli utensili nel video, perchè non conosco la qualità che hanno oggi le rispettive marche. Alcune credo non esistano nemmeno più.

[@ChrisC811]

After watching your scroll carving video series, I have switched from using all 7 sweep gouges to the variety of sweeps that you recommend and am much happier with my scroll carving. Do you round off the corners of your scroll gouges, or are you using them with the profile that the manufacturer provides? Thank you for these wonderful opportunities to become better craftspeople {:-))

[@DavideSora]

The curves of the gouges are a very personal thing, furthermore, the sweep number is not a precise indication, you should check what the actual radius of each of your gouges is and make a comparison with my radiuses, the sweep numbers do not count. After all, even the radius doesn't have to be the same as mine, it has to be right for you and for the type of curves you need for your scroll, depending on the positions in which you use each gouge, which could vary from how I use them. I never keep the manufacturer's shape and sharpening, I always resharpen all my gouges with a slightly curved profile. The curvature of the profile can become more curved for small gouges with a narrower radius, but essentially it depends on the work they have to do, it is not always the same. Indicatively, if the corners get in the way of the gouge task, I increase the curvature of the profile. I never make it perfectly straight.

[@brahmsbratsche]

Thanks Davide!!! Very valuable information!!!. I was wondering for the reason of gouges with rounded cutting edge and flat cutting edge.

[@DavideSora]

Are you referring to the profile of the cutting edge (shape of the gouge), or the profile of the bevel?

[@brahmsbratsche]

I mean that some of them are like a tongue. So the center of the cutting edge goes to the wood first. I'm not talking about chisels. Only gouges

[@DavideSora]

@@brahmsbratsche All my gouges have a more or less rounded profile, the amount of curvature depends on the work they have to do. For example, the smaller ones to cut the eye of the scroll must work parallel to the axis of the eye, and if they had a profile that was too flat the edge would come into contact with the end of the cut before the center, preventing the cut from being completed. It is a bit difficult to describe the various situations in words and it would take too long, basically when you work you notice if the edges are in the way, and in this case you grind to a more rounded profile to keep them out of the way, so that the center of the gouge can complete the cut, or work better for the specific job they have to do. If you watch my videos on scroll carving you can see the gouges in action in the various situations and the shape they have in greater detail. Find them in this playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PLaxadm6POX7FzuQcI9Uwv5-COLez2hF-N

[@brahmsbratsche]

thank you so much Davide for this wonderful explanation. Of course, I will watch carefully those videos@@DavideSora

[@ghlscitel6714]

Very interesting. However good quality chisels cost a fortune. I wonder why there was never a double plane (jack plane / doppia pialla) to be seen in instruments handcrafting. For me as an amateur, it seems advantageous for roughing the arching of top-plate and bottom compared to a chisel.. Well , you seem to be a fan of Japanese chisels too.

[@DavideSora]

Yes, unfortunately you always pay for quality, but tools last a lifetime, and in the case of a non-professional who perhaps won't work for their whole life, they can always be resold, and if they are good, you get the money you spent back. Planes of various shapes are also used, I like to use gouges as much as possible because if well mastered they are quicker to remove wood and favor the sculptural aspect of the work. But I also use planes in the carving process. Basically every luthier does as he sees fit, there are no obligatory things regarding the tools we use, the important thing is that we are comfortable with the ones we use and that they allow us to do the work as we like to do it. Japanese chisels are beautiful, but a good "Western" chisel is in no way inferior to them, it depends on the quality of the steel. They are generally more expensive, but the most expensive one I have (handmade) is a gift from a fan of mine, I don't know if I would have spent all that money just for the aesthetics. However, I appreciated it very much, it's nice to have beautiful tools in your hand while working...🙂

[@AlainVignette]

Bonjour Mr Sora Dans la vidéo sur la fabrication des tasseaux n°3 on vous voit sculpter les tasseaux avec une gouge que vous ne présentez pas dans votre description et étant moi même sculpteur ,c'est un modèle que je ne connais absolument ! Pourriez vous en donner un peu sur ces gouges qui me paraissent inversée? Merci encore pour vos toujours superbe vidéos

[@DavideSora]

Tu as raison, je ne l'ai pas mis car c'est une gouge un peu particulière, et honnêtement pas indispensable, le même travail peut être fait avec une gouge normale. Cependant, il s'agit d'une gouge avec un biseau interne, c'est à dire du côté opposé à une gouge normale, qui agit donc comme un ciseau et permet de fendre le bois plus rapidement et de maintenir la gouge dans une direction plus verticale. C'est une gouge japonaise, les mesures font 18 mm de large et le rayon de courbure est de 13 mm. Le mien est très ancien et je ne le trouve pas dans les catalogues des vendeurs, mais il existe aussi des versions non japonaises, comme celle-ci, mais je ne connais pas le rayon de courbure : www.dictum.com/en/scroll-gouges-jbc/herdim-cornerblock-gouge-sweep-6-16-mm-715551 PS: Le français vient de Google Translator, je ne sais pas si c'est correct, c'est la réponse anglaise que je connais le mieux: You're right, I didn't put it because it's a rather special gouge, and honestly not essential, the same job can be done with a normal gouge. However, it is an inside bevel gouge, i.e. on the opposite side of a normal gouge, which therefore acts like a chisel and allows you to split the wood more quickly and holds the gouge in a more vertical direction. It is a Japanese gouge, the measurements are 18 mm wide and the radius of the curve is 13 mm. Mine is very old and I can't find it in the sellers' catalogs, but there are also non-Japanese versions, such as this one, but I don't know the curvature radius: www.dictum.com/en/scroll-gouges-jbc/herdim-cornerblock-gouge-sweep-6-16-mm-715551

[@AlainVignette]

@@DavideSora Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse, et Google Translate fait parfaitement le travail

[@miguelgarciaferrer8008]

Hola Davide, yo tengo la gubia de Dictum que recomiendas. El problema es que no se cómo afilarla adecuadamente y en la webb no encuentro tutoriales para ese tipo de gubia. ¿Tienes alguna recomendación? Saludos@@DavideSora

[@DavideSora]

@@miguelgarciaferrer8008 Yo afilo este tipo de gubia a mano con piedras de agua planas normales. Afilar la parte curva lleva tiempo pero con un poco de paciencia se puede, en caso contrario se necesitarían piedras especiales con ranuras del radio adecuado, como estas: www.dictum.com/en/shaped-stones-shaped-sharpeners-eba/suehiro-multiform-stone-3-piece-set-711539 PS Me refiero a la gubia para cortar los bloques mencionada en el comentario anterior en francés, que no se ve en este vídeo.

[@sm9846]

🙏🙏🙏

[@karzankarem3198]

❤❤❤ 🤝🙏👌🫶🫵

[@atletico5928]

Alessandro