Shaper Origin Handheld CNC -- My first detailed inlay!

[@mrclose1]

Great video. I've never heard of anyone using Odies Oil on a cutting board vs a basic mineral oil and wax finish. Have you been doing this for a while and is there a specific reason you went this way vs traditional? Also, how many coats did you put on? Thanks!

[@blacklabelcarpentry]

Thanks! Im not a fan of mineral oil because it darkens the wood so much. The Odies gave the wood a really nice rich color and one product did several things. I use 2 coats usually. 1st coat soaks into the wood and penetrates, while the second coat would get any dry spots, and sit on top as more of a protector, especially once the wax dried. I also like that i can recommend a product that a client can purchase to refresh their board without having to send it back, and it also gave them the chance to use that product on their furniture.

[@mrclose1]

@@blacklabelcarpentry Great. Thanks for that. Last question. I'm struggling to find out what pads work best if I were to apply and then buff out using my Festool RO 125. What pad did you use to apply the oil here and what did you use later to buff out? Thanks again!

[@blacklabelcarpentry]

@@mrclose1 No problem! So the best pads for applying are the Norton White Non-Abrasive pads. They can be found at Mid-West Flooring supply and they go quite the distance. If you use the regular sanding pad that comes on the RO125, you will find that the hook n loop on the pad will stick to the Norton pad. Now i usually turn the sander down to number 3-4 as it doesn't need to be full speed. For smaller areas, or live edge, i will remove the pad and apply that by hand. For buffing out, i will use the blue shop towels found at any local big box store. Keep rubbing the surface until you don't see anymore product on the towel. I never found the need to use a sheepskin wool pad for buffing unless i decide to go to an extremely high grit, but then the wood tends to look like plastic so p180-p320 will work just fine. Any more questions don't hesitate to reach out. Im also on Instagram @MullaneyWoodworks

[@blacklabelcarpentry]

@@peternelson5113 Yep, i don't think there is a wrong way to apply it, other than over applying. But as long as you get it all off after letting it sit for about an hour, its good to go. Ive left it 24 hours and it just dries up so it'll take a little more elbow grease to remove

[@tylerhaley7025]

Did you use a cove/bowl bit in your SO to make that juice groove? If so, how'd you set the diameter in the software?

[@blacklabelcarpentry]

yes i did. I used the Amana cove bit. So you have a couple of options. On the shaper machine, you can create a square/rectangle to the entered dimensions and place it, or you can use the pen tool and mark 4 points on the board which connect together to form the rectangle. Its quite easy to do. The last option is to add a rectangle line in your editing (mine is adobe illustrator), just remember to account for the width of the bit. But it only takes a minute or 2 to do it in the machine itself

[@CPBuilds]

Those are some sexy REVOs right there.

[@topherjones3064]

Amazing. What did you use to seal the wood?

[@blacklabelcarpentry]

Thank you! So I've used several products over the years such as Odies Oil, Oslo Top oil, and Tried & True. All of them have their pros and have given me great results!

[@davecurda2350]

Nice job 👍

[@blacklabelcarpentry]

Thanks!

[@kthschsslr]

What vacuum hose is that?

[@blacklabelcarpentry]

its an anti static 27mm festool hose. comes standard with festool extractors

[@debandmike3380]

ha ha hilarious, you've got all the expensive high-end tools and then you pull out your little cheap Kreg offset marker. No $300 woodpecker marker?

[@blacklabelcarpentry]

So I have the Woodpeckers Paolini marking gauge but its not thick enough to register the edge of that board after the large chamfer. The large woodpeckers squares seemed like overkill. For what was involved in the task, it didn't require anything fancy. Simple problems require simple solutions!