Shaper Origin (+ Workstation) Tips | How To Improve Your Workflow

[@vibi27]

Best video on shaper origin. Hudge work. Thanks for sharing.

[@BodgedButWorks]

Glad you enjoyed it 😊 Thanks for watching!

[@inspectr1949]

Awesome, have never seen or used a Shaper Origin but certainly has my attention even belonging to several woodworking clubs most likely as the vast majority of members are over 65 like me.

[@gga3053]

Thank you so much for this excellent content. These tips will certainly come in handy as I get further into using my Shaper Origin. I especially enjoy that you show the workflow in metric. As a US resident who prefers metric, this is quite valuable to me.

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thank you, appreciate the feedback! Very glad to hear that you prefer metric over imperial units as well 😊

[@gbear056]

Just found your channel as I’m very close to ordering a Shaper Origin. Great content and very well presented!

[@BodgedButWorks]

Cool, thanks for stopping by 😊 Feel free to say hi to the team from me when you place your order 😉

[@gbear056]

👍

[@tzed2509]

Thanks for these great tips, I just got my router and I think you just saved me from making some newbie mistakes...

[@BodgedButWorks]

Awesome 😉 Have fun making stuff with your Origin!

[@tzed2509]

@@BodgedButWorks thanks! You've shortened my learning curve for sure

[@silvertonguedaywalker9116]

Hi i saw this system earlier. I have never heard of it. What can one cut on this system and what wood can one use. IE Pine. All new to me. We buy little wooden Houses in and paint them for friends and family. The little Houses have a 90 Dec Angle. We do to have a saw,. No room at the Inn. I gather one can make furniture with this system. I saw a big Table with different shape Holes in the Wood. I guess one has to have their on workshop . The tape i have seen being put onto the wood, can you explain what it is for.

[@BodgedButWorks]

Hi, in this video [kzbin.info/www/bejne/rIjOpZSCitGWbbs], I cover some of your questions. If things are still unclear afterwards, let me know 😊

[@donalddparker]

Great video. I'm only 3 weeks in with the shapepr and loving it. Thanks!

[@BodgedButWorks]

Cool 😉 Have fun with your new Origin and thanks for stopping by!

[@rae2-j]

With the Festool CTL/M Midi you can plug your Origin and it doesnt vacuum as long as you only have the Origin switched on. At the point where you switch on the miller to actually cut, it will turn on the vacuum. No remote needed.

[@mattmilauskas5727]

I did not know about the height adjustment in the support bar for Workstation, wow thank you so much for the tip!!! i've had so many Z related headaches because i swear my Origin lifts the slightest amount when i ride over the support bar. going to fix that now

[@BodgedButWorks]

Sweet ;) You're welcome.

[@NihonDream]

Thank you! It is not only a practical approach but also very educational. I am waiting for my set, still think it is a crazy purchase, and I am amazed by the endless possibilities this tool gives. Your movie answers some of my questions regarding both: capabilities and limitations the tool has. Good job! Many thanks!

[@BodgedButWorks]

An adventurous purchase indeed 😊 You are very welcome, glad I could help. Have fun once your set arrives 🎉

[@EZEvans1]

I loved this video and look forward to watching more. Your content is great but your communication style and editing are amazing. Thanks for your hard work!😊

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thanks so much 😊

[@SirFabianpd]

Can't believe you don't have 215K ! Great content, amazing quality!

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thanks to people like you, we're getting closer 😊 Appreciate the support.

[@brianmosse]

This instruction is first class this bloke is no bodger and I know a bodger when I see one .

[@BodgedButWorks]

Touché 😉

[@BreezEvaFlowin909]

Thank you this video helped clear a lot. I plan on purchasing one in the near future

[@BodgedButWorks]

Glad to hear that! Thanks for watching and say hi to the Shaper team from me ;)

[@steenfraosterbro3268]

I'm very close to convincing myself to get one of these. Great video. You earned yourself a new subscriber (me☺️). Greetings from Denmark.

[@BodgedButWorks]

Cool, happy to hear that ;) Thanks for the feedback, glad to have you in the BodgedButWorks community and greetings back from Germany!

[@Bobsmith-ot6si]

Excellent video. Really helpful many thanks

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thanks for watching, happy to help 😊

[@ericsimpson4045]

Awesome tips thank you. Im in active learning at the moment and finding it intimidating but video like this really helps

[@BodgedButWorks]

Glad to hear that, I wish you all the best while setting up your workflow 🛠️

[@Go.el_Hadam]

great advice. especially the advice on doing multiple passes to get a clean edge.

[@BodgedButWorks]

Glad I was able to help :)

[@madfists7106]

Mate, this was great! Thank you so much. I got my Shaper Origin and am finally going to start using it. Your tips are super helpful. Keep it up!

[@BodgedButWorks]

Appreciate the feedback and I'm glad I could help you out 😊🎉

[@martindu9083]

thank you so much, by your info finally I have found cutter resources in Germany

[@BodgedButWorks]

Glad to hear that, you're welcome 😊 I can also recommend the cutters from Sorotec meanwhile.

[@devinteske]

I love your support bar spoilboard. Very useful! Also, I did not know about those grub screws. Thank you very much. I haven't had a problem with the support bar, though I have had problems with the "speed bump" effect caused by the tape field being slightly higher than the area preceding it. I have been using Origin for a couple years now and can offer some advice. For cutting out acrylic glass (or alloy), a "single O-flute" will work best (still single flute as you are using, but the flute is configured optimally for acrylic and aluminum/aluminium). Also, for best cut quality in acrylic, use the shortest bit for the job (if you are only cutting through 1/4" or 6mm acrylic and you have the choice of using two cutters, one with 8mm cutting height and another with 12mm cutting height, use the shorter of the two). For rounding-over, I prefer "point cutting roundover" bits -- for one, you can plunge with them, but you can also do beading effects, not just roundovers. Whether you are using an up-cut spiral versus a down-cut spiral cutter will effect how strong your adhesive has to be. For example, carpet tape suffices for down-cut but not up-cut. A hard, dense wood being cut with an up-cut spiral benefits from using painter's tape and super-glue instead of double-sided tape, for example. Last but not least, I love that you use Inkscape. I did not know about that setting for simplification, wunderbar! Your method of rounding over corners is the same method I use, except, ... I never knew about bezier vs circle AND I didn't know that the Radius label is wrong (but 100% believe you because I have not found that the setting works properly -- that I have always had to manually adjust the green handles ... thank you SO much for that tip. For cutting illumination, I used the tapped hole in the router base to attach a wooden base for the task light from Lee Valley (you may have seen it in the shaper hub, named "Task Light Adapter" -- hub.shapertools.com/creators/5ff39ec0f861b00010201ece/shares/6081c5625d3bf000133c0d3d ). Long comment, I know, but I really enjoyed your video. Thanks!

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thanks for your feedback and tips! I'll check out O-flute and point-tipped roundover cutters 👍🏼 If you're interested, I have two new videos exclusively about Inkscape :) The task light is too bulky for my taste, I'll see if I can find a slim version.

[@devinteske]

@@BodgedButWorksany update on finding a slimmer task light?

[@guywoodward9043]

Hey great tips! Thank you for putting this together. I picked up several things that I didn't know and I've been using my Shaper Origin for about 1 year. I subscribed!! looking forward to your future content and possibly sharing ideas.

[@BodgedButWorks]

Perfect, that means the video is successfully serving it's purpose 😊 Thanks for subscribing, looking forward to hearing your ideas!

[@chevdiver]

Thank You for another great video! Much Appreciated.

[@styleplague]

Rounding over in Inkscape: Is it necessary to round over outside corners? I think outside corners angles are unlimited.

[@BodgedButWorks]

Well, if for example you want to create an inlay of one piece of wood into another, you will have to cut a given shape from "both sides" (outside cut for the small inlay piece, inside cut in your larger piece of wood).

[@mrnobelnigel]

A great set of tips and the links. Thanks for sharing 👍

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thanks for your feedback! 😊

[@AlexK07010]

Great video. Question on the spindle lock handle. What kind of spacer did you use? link to the thread is not working

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thank you! ☺️ I sawed a 7mm long piece off an aluminum tube (inner diameter >=5mm, outer ~7mm), but there's similar spacers available online if you don't have such a tube laying around. The forum thread is only accessible if you're logged in. Note concerning the handle: Be careful when using short bits or large plunge depths, the handle can collide with the transparent spindle protector. Other than that, I like it so far, it's fun to use.

[@AlexK07010]

@@BodgedButWorks ah That explains it. thank you. I'm going to look for smaller handle

[@BodgedButWorks]

@@AlexK07010 You're welcome. Note that a shorter/smaller handle won't solve the potential-collision-issue because that's due to the position of the M5 thread. You'd have the same effect if you left the hex key stuck in the screw. Maybe someday I'll 3D print a new transparent cover with a small slot/recess for the spindle lock handle. It's not too bad currently, I just have to be careful with really deep cuts with a

[@AlexK07010]

@@BodgedButWorks Thank you

[@zebalewski1]

Thank you so much for sharing! Definitely going to save this vid for future reference.

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thanks for watching and saving 🎉

[@frankneugebauer9796]

Beim Radienfräser wurde das Lauflager nun demontiert oder nicht? Das geht aus dem Video nicht eindeutig hervor. Aber schöne Idee mit den Tipos.

[@BodgedButWorks]

Servus, danke für den Hinweis! Das Lauflager wurde in der Tat demontiert, um den Fräser mit Origin verwenden zu können. Viel Spaß beim Umsetzen 👍🏼

[@commander-tomalak]

Thanks for sharing which mills you've used for acrylic! I have an upcoming project where I will need just that :D

[@BodgedButWorks]

Sure, you're welcome! The right cutter really speeds up the process because it doesn't clog up all the time, so have fun 😊

[@charleselkins4546]

Nice tips, thanks.

[@BodgedButWorks]

Anytime, thanks for stopping by 😊

[@steveeastwood3918]

great video! Very helpful.

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thank you 😊

[@katiekelley3984]

Nice job. Glad I found your channel.

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thank you and welcome 😊

[@davidchappel9590]

Very well done young man

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thank you, I appreciate your support!

[@synthdude7664]

Hey is it possible to make countersinks and holes ? I want to make basic shapes that require precise countersink and holes

[@BodgedButWorks]

As long as you have a countersink bit and your material thickness doesn't exceed the maximum cutting depth of your cutter for the holes, both should be possible. That's one of the advantages of Shaper Origin - Precisely aligned holes with CNC accuracy and without having to mark everything beforehand using a pencil & ruler 😊

[@synthdude7664]

@@BodgedButWorks would you ever be able to demonstrate this? I’m actually picking mine up next week.

[@synthdude7664]

@@BodgedButWorks also, I’m getting it to mainly replace a workflow that I do, and was wondering if I can tell you the idea , show you what it is exactly , and maybe get some tips ? Do you have an email? I got so many questions and I think more or less it can do all of what I’m hoping and way more, but it’s good to talk to someone who actually has one . For some reason I can’t join the forum, I think you have to physically have one in order to join the forum.

[@BodgedButWorks]

@@synthdude7664 Sure, I can try 😉 My email is --------------------- Yeah, at least some parts of the forum and the ShaperHub are Origin-User-Only as far as I know.

[@synthdude7664]

@@BodgedButWorks okay cool I sent an email. It might show up in your spam box, google does that to us. The email is [e-mail]

[@danielrisberg2112]

Great tips & video! Thanks

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thank you for watching!

[@jlh2119]

Thank you for posting you Origin videos! I do have a request… Would you be able to investigate the use of the Workstation to place a 45 degree mitre on the ends of box sides rather than using a box joint or dovetail joint? I would think with a 45 degree bit a nice mitre could be placed onto the box ends very quickly. Thanx !!

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thanks for stopping by and for your request! I'll add it to my list of ToDos for the next Shaper Tips video 👍🏼 If I understand you correctly, you want to join the four sides of, for example, a drawer with 45° mitres. I see two feasible options: Either a) use a 90° V-shaped cutter (then you don't need the Workstation at all as the parts can be milled lying flat on the table) or b) make a jig for the Workstation to be able to place the wooden parts on a 45° slope and mitre the edges with a standard end mill. The advantage of b) is that you don't need an extra cutter (but a Shaper Workstation hehe).

[@BodgedButWorks]

By the way, I just finished a project where I used an angled bit to make a bevel (mistakes were made in the process ;), if you're interested check out my "First VLOG" highlight on instagram.com/bodgedbutworks/

[@jlh2119]

@@BodgedButWorks I hadn't thought of Option-A ... I was thinking more along the line of option-b .... however ... setting the box join side into the Workstation like for a box joint ... using the 90deg v-shaped bit ... set at the appropriate depth to just graze the spoil board edge ... and the miter is created without the need for a jig. I may be over thinking this. I had envisioned using one bit to cut out the 4 sides of a box from a sheet of 1/2 baltic birch plywood then use the workstation to quickly set the sides on edge and lay down a 45 miter with a v-shaped bit at the appropriate depth by using the capabilities of the Origin and not have to measure / eyeball on a table saw or router table. Thank you for listening !

[@BodgedButWorks]

@@jlh2119 Ok, that makes it clearer to me what you're trying to do. I still think you can save the entire Workstation portion of your suggested workflow by making the 45° (90°) cuts directly in your sheet of wood and then cutting the parts out afterwards. Maybe cut the to-be-bevelled edges with a standard cutter first and then go over them again with the 90° bit to reduce strain on the 90° cutter. Is there anything I'm missing that would make this impractical?

[@jlh2119]

@@BodgedButWorks Thank you for the reply! Option-A has merit ... I hadn't thought about that. What I was envisioning was being able to cut all 4 sides (and even a bottom) of the box from a single sheet of plywood (say 1/2 inch baltic birch). Then positioning the box join edges into the Workstation, like would be done for a box or dovetail joint (no jig), but instead putting in a 90deg v-shaped bit and using the power of the Origin to calculate the depth it needed to lay in a 45deg miter across a 1/2 inch thick side. Quick and simple ... not all the back and forth as need for a box joint (if Origin can calculate the spacing for a box joint surely is can calculate a v-bit miter depth). One, two, or three passes to make the miter is fine ... Apologies for the double entry .... Thanx again for listening!!

[@KevinPhillipssb]

Thanks for the tips. I haven't had my Shaper origin that long and I am still learning. I'va also subscribed to your channel.

[@BodgedButWorks]

I'm also still learning new things every time I use it - if you discover something interesting, feel free to share! Thanks for subscribing 😊

[@KevinPhillipssb]

@@BodgedButWorks You may be interested to know that my Shaper Origin failed to boot up recently. I got in contact with the Shaper support team, who got me going again. I have a little video showing the fail as well a description of the fix. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZSUm3mpir9sjdU It might help if you experience this problem.

[@BodgedButWorks]

@@KevinPhillipssb I remember getting a similar error at boot (not sure if it was the same one you had) when I forgot to remove the orange axis locking parts before plugging Origin in. Since that was my fault, I was able to fix it though ;) What did you have to do to remedy your failure condition?

[@KevinPhillipssb]

@@BodgedButWorks As I explain in the video description all you need to do is make sure the power is off and then move the spindle (gently) so that it is off centre. Then plug in to reboot. The spindle recentres and the error goes away. I was in the middle of a project and this got me going. I had visions of having to ship the SO back o Germany!

[@BodgedButWorks]

@@KevinPhillipssb Oops, sorry, I didn't notice your video description on my mobile device ;) Ok, that's good to know for the future 👍🏼

[@wandersworkshop4957]

Very good information. Thank you

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thank you for stopping by, glad I could help 😊

[@kiwdwks]

Awesome video...thank you. Appreciate your tips!

[@BodgedButWorks]

Appreciate your support, thanks for the feedback!

[@lucastanzani12]

Is Shaper Origin precise? I mean like a real metal chassis machine. I’m about to buy a cnc machine and of course I like the Shaper Origin but I am very concerned about the “softly-correct-the-path-while-cutting” concept of this machine instead of the “just-go-there-and-nowhere-else” concept of a classic chassis cnc machine. What is your experience?

[@BodgedButWorks]

Excellent question! My guesstimate concerning the subject of precision is "somewhere in the ballpark of a tenth of a Millimeter". I haven't measured it though. Because Origin is handheld, precision depends mainly on how you guide it and how aggressively you work (plunge depth, movement speed, etc). I doubt you will reach the accuracy of a metal chassis machine, but it's absolutely fine for woodworking, engraving acrylic glass/copper and even prototyping aluminum parts (check instagram.com/bodgedbutworks for images). From my subjective point of view, the Origin does a better job correcting the cut path than I expected, but if you are too impatient (hehe) and push the cutter to its limits, you'll notice a not-so-clean cutting edge. Sooo does it completely replace a classic CNC? No. Not if you're looking for high precision and manufacturing parts without having to hold the machine while it's milling. But it has got a different set of advantages that make it preferable for me personally.

[@bestdollartvchannel4703]

Please can this machine work on 7 feet length by 2 feet width

[@BodgedButWorks]

As far as I know, you're only limited by the amount of tape you're willing to spread and scan. A wooden board (?) with your given size will work well, yes.

[@bestdollartvchannel4703]

@@BodgedButWorks OK thanks

[@chalkline1505]

For thin parts use Krylon Easy Tack. There's a youtube video with Ramon Alvarez who does beautiful veneer and inlay work where he shows how to use it "sparingly".

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thanks for the tip, I didn't know about Easy Tack. Gotty try it out sometime 👍🏼

[@dominiquemenaldo7227]

Hello, Many thanks for thoses tips.

[@BodgedButWorks]

Hello as well and thank you 😊

[@konradfritz27]

Super Tipps 👍👍

[@BodgedButWorks]

Freut mich, dass sie helfen 😊

[@jimgeary2583]

Great video. Where do I find the items you mention that you will post, such as websites or individual products that you recommend ?

[@BodgedButWorks]

@@jimgeary2583 Thanks! You can find them in the video description. If you're watching on a mobile device, you might have to open the description by clicking somewhere below the video first.

[@magnusbogucki]

Great video! Thank you!

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thanks for watching 😊

[@magnusbogucki]

@@BodgedButWorks Do you find that you use the workstation a lot?

[@BodgedButWorks]

@@magnusbogucki Yes, it has saved me from having to make bodge-jigs for small parts countless times. And it even helps with larger parts if you know how to mount them. Also it saves you ShaperTape every time you use it ;) Can only recommend the workstation, it's well-engineered and a great addition to the Origin.

[@magnusbogucki]

@@BodgedButWorks thank you. Video suggestion for the future: how you use Inkscape with origin. Haven’t found that many great videos for a beginner.

[@BodgedButWorks]

@@magnusbogucki Merci, I hadn't considered making a "pure-Inkscape" tutorial, but if you say there's not a lot of beginner (and Shaper Origin) friendly content out there, I might give it a try 🤔

[@1705s]

🙂👍 very nice Viedeo!! THX

[@coutaudjean-marie2340]

Bravo… Thank you very much…. Merci beaucoup…. From Quecbec Province, CDN.

[@BodgedButWorks]

You're welcome, Bittesehr, from Stuttgart, GER 😊

[@johanneskoch807]

Du hast einen kleinen Fehler drin, die Radien bei Laufzeit 20:00 bis 20:29 sind unterschiedlich groß. Was gleich ist ist das Maß von Eckpunkt zu Anfang/Ende des Radius, aber nicht der Radius. Der Grund: Du hast ein Häkchen gesetzt bei "Knotenabstand anstatt Radien verwenden". Erst wenn Du das abwählst bekommst Du gleiche Radien (und es sind wirklich Radien und nicht der Durchmesser, wie Du vermutet hattest) Probiere es mal aus.

[@BodgedButWorks]

Uuuh, danke für den Hinweis! Teste ich bei Gelegenheit direkt 🎉

[@patrick_myers]

Wish I had known about #5 - ruined the bit that came with my SO within a week by running the spindle way too fast (at 5) in some 3/4 baltic birch. *sadface* Slowed it down to 3.5 and now it's barely warm coming out the same ply.

[@BodgedButWorks]

Same here, went too fast/deep in dense Multiplex and overheated the included 6mm bit 😢 Now i'm using a roughing cutter and running it at spindle speed 2-3, much better temperature on the bit 👍🏼

[@patrick_myers]

@@BodgedButWorks On #15 ("rounded corners") I'm a little confused. I totally agree that SO will inherently struggle with inward curving corners, but I can get sharp outside corners. Why did you need to round off the outside corners?

[@BodgedButWorks]

@@patrick_myers Great question! If you are for example doing an inlay, you will first cut out a separate "positive" of your desired shape/logo, then cut a "negative" into your workpiece (e.g. cutting board). In the process, you'll cut every corner twice, once inside, once outside. That's why it's important to pay attention to all corners beforehand, otherwise you'll find yourself having to grab a file and fix it in post ;) An example would be the cutting boards I made a few months ago: instagram.com/p/CKw3KK3pnIM/

[@kanenaskanenas7285]

Thanks

[@pctatc66]

been a year since you last posted.. when's the break over?

[@BodgedButWorks]

Today is the day 😊🎉 Good timing on that comment 😎

[@synthdude7664]

Btw awesome music

[@BodgedButWorks]

Thank you, shoutout to my awesome editing partner Ravven ;) kzbin.info

[@trugath]

The artsy shaky cam sequences gave me motion sickness. Otherwise cool video.