Sharpen your Chainsaw, Set Your Rakers-Set the Bite, you can do this!

[@carlbridgeforth3651]

You doing a good job

[@Tenonizer]

Thank you for the kindness Carl😎

[@MathieusChainsawCarvings]

if you overtighten the chain a bit while sharpening it gets extra crispy sharp while sharpening, no need to hold ur thumb against it then. just let off some tension after your done , works best for me.

[@stovolbelinche3178]

i am 25 i dont know sthil well..... and thats a deep subject 😂 and i have used a muccloch chainsaw sence i was six i started with a silver eagle 2000 now use 10-10 s so i have just about evey muccloch ever made and i want a chainsaw to replace my 125 c muccloch with 125cc or my custom built 300 cc demosaw to chainsaw and does sthil have something of that size or at least 125 cc chainsaw

[@Tenonizer]

Stihl makes an assortment of good, solid, dependable chain saws, I'm confident they have something you will like.

[@stovolbelinche3178]

@@Tenonizer thanks imwas curis

[@superdog1964]

You seem like a hard working man with good intentions! With that being said and all due respect to you sir, please PICK UP THE FILE ON THE RETURN STROKE! By dragging the file back across the gullet, you are ruining the file and dulling the very edge you are attempting to sharpen. I know this because when I started my first day of Tool and Die making school many years ago, the first project we were given was a small out of square block of steel and a bastard file.We were required to use the file and return the block to square by hand. I was working away when all of the sudden I felt a slap to the back of my head! I turned around to see my teacher shaking his finger at me and he said "You never, ever drag a file on the return stroke!" he then went on to say "The school can't afford to buy new files every week, so stop being lazy and pick it up! Besides, it makes you have to work 10 times harder as the file gets duller" i never forgot that lesson. I hand sharpen and/or grind an average of 10 chains a week. I promise that if you start with a new chain and don't hit the dirt, rocks or metal in the wood being cut? your chain will last a lot longer if each time you stop to gas and oil up, you take just a few more minutes and run the file 3 times LIGHTLY over each cutter. This little bit of extra effort and time will pay you back, as a sharp chain is a safe one and takes much less work, as you don't have to be pushing the bar through the cut. The sign of a sharp chain is when you set the saw on the log and it pulls itself through without you using the dogs or pushing down with you body weight. I do not wish to insult you, I simply want to see a hard working man work a little less harder and have a little more free time to have a beer and admire your own work! Don't forget about filing the rakers down every 3rd time you sharpen the cutters? Otherwise your sharp teeth can't grab any wood to cut, Lol

[@Tenonizer]

superdog, thank you for presenting your life lesson, it makes sense, I had not considered the return stroke thought, I will look at that closer. I do practice your chainsaw sharpening policy though, it is a very good practice. Just before I sharpened my saw on this episode, I had been super cruel to it and used my good saw (with an old bar & chain) to cut out a birch tree stump.

[@superdog1964]

@@Tenonizer I am pretty sure you will see a difference in both file life and a sharper chain?

[@andrewfleming6487]

Hello, lots of wise advice. If i may add one small piece of personal experience though… to take the rakers down to the optimal level you really do need to use a ‘file guide tool ‘ when removing material off the raker. This will make the depth perfect. If you take too much off then you will have a wild saw that will bog-down and jump and basically be unusable safely. II also file by hand and dont use a machine or contraption beside the round file to sharpen the blades. I would just say that i personally mark with a pen the top of the first blade that i sharpen as a visual reminder. And also on top of the blade you generally have a slight line (generally 30 degrees ) to reference for accurate filing. Nice work though mate.

[@Tenonizer]

Red Oak cuts different from Red Pine, as White Pine must be harvested with a more aggressive cut than White or Burr Oak. You can not buy saw tuning ability at Menards or Wal-Mart in the form of a "one size fits all" 5 dollar file guide.

[@winhumphrey9544]

Oh boy... You make it worst...

[@Tenonizer]

Hey, what kind of a Doof comes here and makes a snobnochious comment? Didn't your mama teach you nothing? Grow up and a contributing factor to the world around you.

[@stovolbelinche3178]

@@Tenonizer hey old timer thats the only way to sharpen a sawchain free handed just like like your aditude i hope you dont mined but thtas damn good sharpen you remined me of father the way you sharpen good memeories this english is hard for a russian but i am intrested about the chainsaw specs for say like hiw many ccs it hase also i have hard time with syntick oils for my mcculoch i smokes and burst fire out exousat and then i said nope and dumped the gas out is their a better oil that better than standered bollens oil cuz set pants on fire kinda hurts 😅

[@stovolbelinche3178]

know what i repecte elders so here my insult😂😂 winyhump 😂 did you know back in his day their was only the free hand method know why its called free handed the desizion of do it their way hahaha his money his sawchain his way