Sharpening and Setting Ripper 37 Sawmill Blades for the First Time

[@jerrydeveau4738]

Good afternoon Sandy, I have been using the woodland mills sharpener and setter for about two years now and last year I called woodland mills to inquire about a different sharpener wheel and was told that there is a professional sharpening stone that never needed to be profiled. A little over a hundred dollars and working great for me over a year now

[@petersavage6211]

Morning Sandy! My 126 arrives here Monday!! 🎉

[@sawingwithsandy]

Great news Peter! You'll love it

[@Dakinflathers]

Hi Sandy, thanks for taking the time to test and review our Ripper37 sawmill blades. We’re pleased you are seeing the great results many of our end-users enjoy. Your content is brilliant, very relevant, and valuable to your viewers - helping them to achieve the best results from their blades. The detail in which you explain each step of the sharpening and setting process and what the means for the blade is very informative. Keep up the good work and happy milling! #ripper37

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thank you!

[@sawingwithsandy]

The Ripper 37's have been a great addition to my sawmill!

[@billyhaddock5540]

Thanks Sandy for telling and showing us how u go about cutting ur ripper saw blades. soon it will be cutting logs for firewood.

[@sawingwithsandy]

You read my mind Billy!

[@lonewolfFirearms]

I know I've told you before, but I give the ripper 37 blades praise to everyone I know who has a sawmill. I've used several different blades and once I purchased the ripper 37 7degree blades they are the only blades I spend my money on. 99% of the logs I cut are hickory, oak and walnut with a few pine logs every now and then. The ripper 37 cuts everything like butter and smooth. Plus they hold up to the hidden nail really well. I just wish I had the re sharping set up you have. Maybe someday.

[@sawingwithsandy]

I'm with ya on that one. These blades sure do a great job! I'm really happy I tried them out

[@brianwestveer9532]

Morning Sandy, thanks alot.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks for checking out the video Brian!

[@earlholmes9740]

I have been waiting for this sharpening tutorial. Got my sludge, bring it on.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Great to have ya hear this morning Earl

[@earlholmes9740]

Thank you ,I was wondering when you would do an update on those new Lenox blades. Tried them and was very impressed but held off until I seen the godfather of woodland mills giving again an excellent tutorial.

[@ssprofirewood]

Hey Sandy, I have learned a lot from you for sharpening my blades. Thanks for sharing.l Take care!

[@sawingwithsandy]

Great to hear that and thanks for checking out the video

[@johnaddis1022]

Morning Sandy, I have the same Grinder and setter and they work well. On the grinder to get the entire gullet I would sharpen the teeth first then adjust the travel length to complete the clean out of the rest of the gullet takes more time but makes for a better blade sharpening, only other way I know is to get a woodmizer wheel which is shaped and is thicker to get the gullet in one pass but I'm not sure the 12 volt motor is strong enough on the grindlux 4000 to handle it. You are correct about the head changing degree and the C clamp is the solution. Cheers! and happy sharpening. John Toccoa GA

[@sawingwithsandy]

I'm with ya on that one John. I end up making several passes to be able to get the whole teeth. I have thought about those thicker wheels as well. Something I'd like to try out to get the whole tooth in one pass

[@earlzathome]

Thanks for the sharpening tutorial Sandy!

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks for coming along for the video Earl!

[@rodneywroten2994]

very nice set up Sandy

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks Rodney. Have a great weekend

[@stevencharles4333]

My brothers and I use a skate honing stone to square off the edge of the grinder wheel to clean up the profile recommended for the various blades. We also use the larger hand held skate blade honing stone on the blade in on the mill after every sawing session, keeps the blade below the teeth clean of debris. Skate honing stoves are abundant, and reasonable in cost, $4-$6 Cdn$, they come in different sizes.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Great idea Steven!

[@deprived56501]

Nice setup you've got there. Good vid. Thanks.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks Joe! Hope you’re having a good Saturday

[@scotterickson7296]

Good morning Sandy. when I'm teaching people to sharpen band saws (industrial saws, ether swaged or stellite tipped) I tell them to touch the face of the tooth less than you touch the top of the tooth. you'll know you have it right when the guiding wheel stays in contact from the face, all the way through the gullet and over the top of the tooth. If you hit the face harder than the top you will start getting what we call a hollow back.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks for sharing those tips Scott. Very helpful

[@tomt8320]

Hi Sandy. Good tips for saw blade maintenance. I like the comparison of Ripper 37 vs Lennox and see how after the clamp is in place you are throwing far fewer sparks. Great video!

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks Tom. Always great to have you along for the videos

[@robertcash5663]

Sandy I would love to see how the sharpened blades cut compared to a new blade. I love your videos. Thank you from Oklahoma.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hi Robert. I"ll be sure to get these on the sawmill and talk about how they cut compared to new in an upcoming video

[@OregonOldTimer]

14:00 I had the same problem. I use nothing but 10-degree blades, so I drilled a hole through the angle adjustment and put in a nut and bolt. The factory tab and detent are not nearly robust enough to hold the angle.

[@sawingwithsandy]

That's a good idea!

[@delmanicke9228]

Hey Sandy, no help here on the grinding. I'm a bit of a newbie on that, and I use the lesser blades or stock ones and still learning. Good video I'm looking to learn. Thanks 👍... first comment wow.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hey Del! Great to hear from you this morning and thanks for checking out the video

[@larrykluckoutdoors8227]

Thanks for all the information

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks for checking out the video Larry

[@hayesrutherford9415]

I'm not familiar with your grinder but would guess the manual would indicate how to adjust so as to touch the tooth face, down into the gullet and all the way up the back. Initially I use the wheel dresser to remove material where it is hitting the most thus allowing the wheel profile to contact more of the tooth profile along with proper adjustment. A friable wheel also gets shaped by the factory profile. Looks like you got it under control and great video.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks for checking out the video. I’ve found that this grinder often needs multiple passes around the blade to get the whole tooth. I’ve tinkered with the settings for years but due to blade profile variations I’ve not been able to get the grinder to do the whole tooth profile unless it’s a blade I’ve sharpened multiple times already

[@wallaceviviansadventures2095]

Good day Sandy i used a couple rippers 37 now and they cut and hold the edge really well. i will be using more of them. thanks for the sharping tip. i sharpen my own blades at 10 degrees and didn't know should sharpen them at 7 degrees i know now for next time. the guy i bought them from didn't know. thanks again and have a great evening

[@sawingwithsandy]

I've got both 10 degree and 7 degree blades which I"ll sharpen differently at their respective angles when the time comes. I'm using the 10 degree angle right now and will switch to 7 degree once the logs start freezing up

[@wallaceviviansadventures2095]

Got a question I am planning to saw most of the winter when the logs freezes up witch is very soon should I sharpen them 7 or continue at 10

[@sawingwithsandy]

I was talking with the manufacturer of Ripper 37 blades (Dakin Flathers) and they recommended 7 degree with the frozen logs

[@wallaceviviansadventures2095]

Thanks for the comeback take care

[@benscoles5085]

Hello Mr. Sandy, YOU have talked me into buying some new blades, and I am going to tell them you sent me, hoping they send you a couple blades or a Ripper approved grinding wheel.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hey there Ben! Thanks for passing on my name. I sure do like the Ripper 37's! I'm sure you will as well

[@contrafax]

You should negotiate a sponsorship with the manufacturer 😊.

[@jeffhuffman5433]

That's a really good visual explanation of the blades and I have not tried the ripper 37 blade but next time I need blades definitely will give them a try. Good to see you again Sandy.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hey Jeff! Hope you're having a nice weekend

[@noel3065]

thanks Sandy. I was wondering how, where I get my blades from and sharpen how they tell if they can be sharpen or not. Great info. Changed my hole outlook. thanks

[@sawingwithsandy]

Great to hear that Noel! Thanks for coming along for the video today

[@FMcanada]

Hey Sandy. Frank here. Its been a while since I commented on one of your videos [you know, too busy playing with my mill]. But I've been watching/liking from afar [I'm guessing about 3hrs southwest of you]. I've got a video idea for you, something similar to what you did a few years back when you compared sawmills - compare different manufacturer and size blades on the HM130. I've been testing out wider and thicker ripper37 blades on my HM130max all summer. I wanted to see what would give me the flattest, smoothest cuts, and which would last longest in between sharpening [which i hate doing]. First I tried the standard size 1.25x.042. Like you recently discovered, it was definitely better in both smoother cuts and longevity than the standard [Lennox] blade that comes with woodland mills, but also costs more. Then i tried the wider blade 1.50x.042 [standard thickness]. Wow!... Nice frikin cuts. I didn't notice any extra load on the engine [14hp], in fact I'd say less stress on the engine because the cuts were so smooth. This blade size seems to work fine with the flywheel and bearings. Lastly I tried the wider + thicker 1.50x.050 ripper37. Again, wow!, I was super impressed with the finish of the wood, and no noticeable stress on the engine or bearings [yet anyways], but they are a big jump in price. As far as longevity - you cannot even compare the Lennox blades to the Ripper37 blades. I cut a variety of different wood types at different stages of dryness, and also different size logs, [Cedar, Beech, Birch, Pine, Maple, Oak, Ash, even recycled telephone poles]. This wasn't a scientifically timed or charted test [that is the idea of what your video would do] - just me playing with my mill. In conclusion though, I am definitely spending the extra money on ripper blades on my next order. I'll probably go with the 1.50x.042 as my daily goto blades, and take out the 1.50x.050 for those special occasions. As always, all the best.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hi Frank! Great idea and thanks for sharing what you've found with the blades. I"m always up for ideas like that. I'll see what I can swing for the future!

[@jimrobinson8167]

Sandy. Just bought a used HM 126. I have a steep learning curve ahead of me.. saw dust up….

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hey Jim! Happy sawing! Feel free to email me if any questions ever come up

[@jimrobinson8167]

@@sawingwithsandy thank you.. I will keep that in mind…

[@saintaugustine1715]

Good afternoon Sandy nice little video on how to used a sharpening tool and tooth setter I don't cut enough wood myself to mess with the sharpening I usually use a blade till it start going g up and down kind of or so.etime just harder to push my mill through a log then I just scrap them just to pay for both tool it would take me a couple years of extra blade to pay for it not counting my time to do it So for me not worth all that have a great day

[@sawingwithsandy]

I can understand that. I was in the same situation as well at one time. Does take a while to justify the cost for sure

[@davidhrutfiord2537]

I like the clamp idea. I don't like the detent bumps for the angle set. I'll give that a try next time I sharpen.

[@sawingwithsandy]

I don't particularly like them either.

[@TheBeardedCarpenter]

Howdy Sandy- I’ve found the Ripper blades cut better ( for me) after sharpening. I was really impressed with the 7 degree blades straight from the box , but was more impressed with the 10 degree blades after I sharpened them. Take care and God bless

[@sawingwithsandy]

That’s good to hear. I’m looking forward to trying these ones out after the fresh sharpening

[@sawingwithsandy]

I'm looking forward to getting some cutting done now that I"ve sharpen the blades up. I"m hoping it cuts even better

[@TheBeardedCarpenter]

@@sawingwithsandy That was my experience. Blessings

[@manunle]

Another great video. I use the same grinder and the only complaint I have with it is the consistency of the grid. I get it set so it's taking just the right amout off, walk away for a few seconds and I suddenly hear it grinding way to much and need to rush over and back it off. Also, need to make sure the blades are clean. If you start getting sawdust in the gullet, it pushes too far and the grinding stops.

[@sawingwithsandy]

I know what ya mean. It does take some baby-sitting at times for sure. Good point about clean blades. Otherwise you're right about it throwing things off a little bit.

[@09FLTRMM77]

MM77 Approved 👍🏼👍🏼

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hope you're having a good weekend! Thanks for checking out the video

[@wallacefrey6247]

Happy belated Thanksgiving, even though I'm not sure you celebrate that in Canada.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks Wallace. We Celebrate Thanksgiving back in October

[@angonorancho]

Hi Sandy, Is their a different cam available to match the profile and gullet of the ripper 37's ?

[@sawingwithsandy]

Good question. I don't believe there is one I can buy from woodland mills for different blade manufacturers unfortunately.

[@angonorancho]

The reason I ask, is that I just watched a vid of the new sharpener put out by WM that comes with Three different Cam's.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Is that right. That's good for me to know as I wasn't aware of that. I"ll go see if I can round up some different cams. Thanks for pointing this out

[@bespokefencing]

Hi Sandy, I think your tooth advancer might be too close to the grindwheel, winding it back by one tooth pitch gets it out of range of the wheel. This gave me trouble on mine until I figured it out! Great video though!👍

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks for that! I’ll check it out

[@paulf9201]

Great videos! I started watching your channel back when I was looking for a tractor. Now I am in the market for a sawmill, just trying to narrow it down to a model. I would love to know your estimate on how many trees you had to mill to build your mini cabin or any of the others structures you have built on your property.

[@sawingwithsandy]

I appreciate all your support over the years Paul! I wish I could give you an estimate on trees but I have no idea unfortunately

[@Z-Bart]

Sandy, I think what you'll find (I have the same sharpener) is our sharpeners have an odd size for the arbor. I would love to know if you can find a supplier because I would like to try a less aggressive stone.

[@sawingwithsandy]

I was wondering whether that could be the case. That's too bad to hear that. I'll let you know if I come across anything as I"m on the lookout now for another grinding wheel

[@Z-Bart]

@@sawingwithsandy Thanks!

[@garycox534]

I just found that I can not set the teeth on the ripper 37 blade with the tooth setter, the advancing arm will not go back 3 teeth. I am looking at putting a longer limit bolt on it to see if that fixes it.

[@akylehamm]

I just switched to the Ripper37 and won’t go back to any others! I haven’t found anything that they don’t outperform any others that I’ve used and they hold an edge much longer.

[@bigwolfie8980]

did you ever find a place to get the size, the ID is not a standard size can you help me if you find a wider grinding wheel I would thank you so much.

[@sawingwithsandy]

I haven't located one yet unfortunately but will keep you updated

[@adirondackwoodsman]

Why is the gullet grinding so important? I have always used Woodmizer sharpening service which was recently discontinued. So I need to get educated on sharpening.

[@sawingwithsandy]

I usually just touch the gullet to clean out any hairline cracks that have started

[@carlmclelland7624]

Hey, Sandy... "Pretty sharp, hey?!" I'm curious, when you've sharpened a blade a few times do you grind into the gullet, or simply write off the blade after that much use? You're absolutely correct with regard to only 'touching' the tooth. On my circular saw sharpener, I manually position the blade tooth and bring the grinder down into the gullet (without touching the gullet), and then manually rotate the blade tooth against the grinder. Literally no sparks, I'm only dressing the tooth, not machining a new surface. After watching the last video where you used your chop saw, if we were a couple thousand miles closer, I'd sharpen it for you....

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hey Carl, I appreciate that offer. I sure have a few mitre saw blades I could use ya for! I normally sharpen right into the gullet but takes a few passes around with the tooth sharpener to get the whole tooth profile done.

[@johnwoody4905]

good video and job how did they saw after sharpening them?. cooks and woodmizer sharpener do the whole tooth but they really cost a lot. take care, be safe and well.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hi John, I haven't put these blades back into the sawmill rotation yet but will before long.

[@chrisklemm3116]

Great video as always Question. I have a 30” Pine log I have been saving for a year now. Cut a couple 2.5” slabs off it today to make a live edge electric fireplace mantle. Got the slabs in garage warming up now. Live in Northern Ontario Any idea how much longer they should dry in garage before using in house? Or should I buy a moisture meter and get them below 12% Your thoughts?

[@sawingwithsandy]

It sounds like they've been drying for a good while and so all I'd likely do at this point is take them inside to let them acclimatize to the inside conditions (sort of liking wood flooring before it is put down). This is likely what I would do.

[@chrisklemm3116]

Thanks for your thoughts. That’s what I did. Let’s hope it works

[@cliffordallen8459]

Hey sandy where can I get those ripper 37s

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hi Clifford, in the description of this video I’ve got some links in there for where I know they’re sold. Hope that helps

[@bay9876]

You could spend a lot of money of the wrong quality blades. Thanks for the filing tips and what works.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks for coming along for the video. Hope you're having a good Saturday

[@timscartoys9321]

Hi Sandy, I know that the CBN type Diamond cutting wheels are quite pricey, but with the repeatability that they offer, combined with the possible multi-sharpening of the Ripper 37's wouldn't make these wheels a possibility?? With just a touch up sharpening combined with not taking too much material off each time, it would seem that you could re-sharpen many times without running out of material or overheating the blades?? Also, I totally agree with not resetting until at least the second sharpening!

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hey Tim, I do like the look of those CBN wheels. The ones I especially wanted to try out were the wider ones that only need one pass to do the tooth. Wasn’t sure if that style would work on this style sharpener

[@timscartoys9321]

You are thinking the same ones as I am!! Just one downward swoop, with barely touching the cutting edge! I know Woodland Mills has some of them on their website, but not sure if they fit your sharpener or not, but they are also becoming more common from other places also.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Yeah those wider ones would be a neat one to try. Just one pass and done

[@lloydbutler7479]

For a cbn wheel I think you will find they will not work well on the drag style sharpeners. They seem to be used on the sharpeners that push the wheel in and pull it out, then move the tooth and push into the next on.

[@randiegadberry5448]

Hi Sandy! Question for you. What size inline fuse did you use for your laser on your sawmill?

[@sawingwithsandy]

Think it was 5 amps

[@kensmith4918]

that's what I do -think about cleaning up lol

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hahah that’s half the job

[@johnathankeller1948]

Did you ever try the full profile CBN wheel?

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hi Johnathan. I haven't tried it yet but it does look like a great upgrade

[@GJCOrado]

Does it really to get more of the gullet? The face is the cutting edge.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Main reason I like to "touch" the gullet is if there's any hairline cracks that are forming it prevents them from spreading

[@randiegadberry5448]

Hi Sandy, question. What size fuse did you use for your sawmill laser?

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hi Randie, I can't quite remember to be honest. My memory wants to say 5amps though but I'll have to scratch m brain a bit more to remember

[@randiegadberry5448]

@@sawingwithsandy Thanks Sandy!

[@donaldpetrey3064]

When you start grinding you need to start short of the tooth and sneak up on it cause some teeth may not need any and others more but you want them all to be the same profile just like chainsaw teeth. So I could start maybe a 64th of an inch shy and let it go a couple rounds then move in slowly every few rounds till you actually start to touch the teeth then a LRCH more

[@sawingwithsandy]

My only issue with this particular sharpener is each go around is around 20minutes so I try to get right down to business right away as you can imagine

[@NSResponder]

This may be a crazy idea, but has anyone ever made bandsaw blades with teeth on both sides so that you can cut in both directions? Would that make much difference to blade life or general efficiency of sawing?

[@sawingwithsandy]

Good question. They do exist for sure. I know some sawmills (large scale) that has the ability to saw in both directions

[@NSResponder]

@@sawingwithsandy I suppose such a blade would track just like the blades you're using now, and if you can cut both ways you should get twice the wear out of it. I just wonder whether the trailing teeth would adversely affect the quality of the cut.

[@thomaspsimpson9995]

On the Woodland Mills saws the blade guides push the blade from the back so having teeth back there wouldn't work.

[@bard44]

By the looks of your shop, I have one question: Are you a hoarder?😉

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hoarder of tools for sure . Limit on space, for sure

[@Alaska_Mac]

His shop is spotless compared to many others I've seen 😅

[@bard44]

If my shop looked like that my sons would be on my back to do some immediate house/shop cleaning@@Alaska_Mac

[@TheCritterWindow]

I do think a lot about cleaning.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Haha