SHIMANO/FOX VS SRAM/ROCKSHOX And plenty of other info

[@NM4500]

Fully agree on Shimano brakes, drivetrain and Galfer pads.

[@TheNik604]

Me too - Shimano and Rock Shox all the way... My Totem 2013 is still hammering great, and the Zee'brakes are a killer too.

[@HUKIT.]

I’m a SRAM/Fox guy. I’ve always been on SRAM and before that Avid’s. Normally have Code RSC’s on but came across a new take off set of SLX 4 pot and Ice Techs rotors and I’m pretty impressed. The lever bleeds are so much easier than the twin syringes. Once this pad set is done I’ll reinstall the Code’s.

[@mitchellvangrieken3900]

15:28 I agree I'm not sold on brake modulation either. You can be more accurate with bitey brakes. But I'm on Hopes now, something about the tactile feel givese extra confidence

[@bwdown]

GX 12 speed cassette weighs 450g, SLX 12s weighs 534g and XT 12s weighs 470g

[@erichbachman7363]

Here's some blabber about my brake experience; Sram has never felt powerful enough for me, but I have mostly used OEM pads. I tested my code rs with MTX ceramic pads(quite expensive to buy overseas, I had very high expectations for these. Tested both red(better for wet) and golds(more powerful); They are great in wet, as far as noise goes(silent), but don't feel any more powerful than metal pads. They seem to last damn long, so that's good. On my enduro I now have TRP DHR-EVO with the MTX golds, and again pretty good in wet, but the power was quite disappointing, the OEM TRP pads, I believe I had were organic, and seemed to have similar power. I will try the sintered/metal next, hope they give more power. In any case, the TRP holds consistent braking for longer dh runs at least, this was not the case for me on my previous Sram codes or Guides(which are weaker than code). So far the TRP are good enough for me. Magura MT5, when they worked, which was for two years, was hands down the best. They had the most amount of power and good modulation, they felt a bit cheap build quality-wise. They were also basically half the price of the TRPs. But if I can find some good pads, TRP might be my new favorite. A bike mechanic actually put on some BBB(reallly cheap pads) metallic brakes on my rear TRP, they feel much more powerful than the insanely expensive 50 USD MTX pads, and again add custom fees(25%) in Norway and the MTX gets damn expensive. In the end though, I honestly think that brake-science is one of the hardest to truly dial. There are too many parameters; Contamination; Did you just touch your rotors?! A muddy puddle might do wonders. Did you get the wrong kind of soap on the disc while washing? Did you hose down the bike from the "cassette side" and get oil/chain oil on the brake disc? - I bought Muc-off disc covers to use during wash / transport with car to be a bit more safe for contamination. If brake discs are contaminated; Might be savable; There are YT vids which include sandpaper, alcohol, torches and ovens (: Contaminated pads? Oven, sandpaper, torches, wont really help you... Many pads are "porous" and have now made the contamination(oil being the critical component) part of itself. Also; Stuck pistons/partially stuck pistons/slow pistons due to mud, grime, sand, etc. Leakage in the hydraulic system, did you do a proper bleed(lever or full bleed)? Changing pads; Did you bed in the rotors with organic first, then metal? Well then you have to IDEALLY sand down the rotors or buy new because of the former material being "embedded into the disc rotor" and the new material will work better if it came with direct contact of the disc brake's metal, rather than the old organic material embedded on the disc. Pad material; Organic, semi-organic, metal, ceramic, does carbon exist? Because of aformentioned, select few params, I think you can end up with a "two piston", "cheap entry level" Shimano Deore or Tektro(arent TRP actually Tektro?) brakes outperforming more expensive TRP, just based on pure luck/unluck. I had a bike that I bought almost new(was used a few trips), came with Shimano XT brakes (4 piston), Rocky Mountain Enduro. They were kind of shit(the theory was that they could be glazed. As Telly mentioned, some pads can't handle too much heat over x-time, which might result in glazed pads. Also, some pads are famous to glace under sandy conditions, basically, the sand turns to glass ...which is how glass is made in the first place (^: So we have to add glazing into the mix of "Why is X-brake that got overwhelmingly positive reviews not that good"? So many factors! As you could tell I been having some issues with brakes. Of course being 230lbs makes that harder. There are a lot of 150lb people loving Sram's but I guess that changes for the Clydesdales xD. Conclusion; I take advice regarding brakes with some grains of salt, but my exp might be unique and I might be totally wrong.

[@lars_atx]

Great comment, and I agree, many factors to consider with brakes. I have Codes and have always wondered if TRP or Hayes were better power, easier maintenance, and overall feel was better.

[@bwdown]

100% Shimano brakes over anything SRAM. More power, less issues & cheaper. Just better brakes all round

[@ieatslag5947]

Hayes Dominion is like all the good characteristics of shimano and sram plus more. I agree with you though, shimano is superior to sram with brakes but I hope we eventually move away from only sram/shimano on OEM builds.

[@MillerRL96]

Less issues? Wondering bite point is clearly a massive issue lol

[@gls-dave2173]

@@MillerRL96 i think that's a bleed issue. If the air not properly removed the bite can wander.

[@petesahad3028]

​@@MillerRL96 You just have to quick bleed them after a few dh laps. Takes two minutes.

[@MillerRL96]

@@petesahad3028 lol. Having to bleed after a few laps is not a good thing.

[@Whiskynalle]

Love your channel! Been on shimano xt on my mtb, my road bike has sram force axs (just because it doesnt need service that often and i can just pay someone to do the bleeding of the brakes in it). Shimano XT is in my opinion the best hands down still, either though I have had leaking front brake saddle (got new one through warranty), and 2 broken deraileurs (one sliced from middle of the body, got that replaced free (warranty), other derailer I bought that was only 100 euros). One and only thing that is utter carbage, is the shimano XT freewheel. I have had that serviced already three times in the last year and by three different service guys. I ride pässilä rämäkkä HT on pretty gnarly stuff for HT but still those freewheels dont last for shit. Running MRP ribbon coil on the front so cant tell about the suspension stuff

[@mtbtelly5522]

Yeah I agree with you, the shimano rear hubs are not very reliable it seems

[@cunning-stunt]

Absorption method for rice mate, you will never go back. Bring to boil reduce heat to simmer for 30 seconds and switch off, all with a tight fitting lid. Go back to it in 15 minutes and it is perfect.

[@mtbtelly5522]

Yeah thats solid. I like to get to it a little early before all the waters absorbed snd make a runny curry

[@Soviet_Elmo]

You could try a TRP Quadiem (budget) or DHR Evo (fancy). Both of those are amazing.

[@claritean]

Love the direction this is heading. Get a mezzer front, best forks ootb 🎉

[@mtbtelly5522]

I haven’t ridden a mezzer yet, I’m curious about it

[@dtran1742]

@@mtbtelly5522 just got the mezzer tuned by nsrracing in tassie and the fork is on another level. The mezzers on sale at dirtworks atm

[@outsidefootdab4878]

I now have shimano deore xt 4 pots. I've had them over a year and only had to bleed them once and it was only a lever bleed. I think the wandering bite point is from air being stuck in the lever. Shimano recommend have lever horizontal when pumping the lever with the bleed cup, however i angle up and down left and right a little bit while pumping the lever and more air comes out. Once I do that I dont get that wandering bite point at all. This seems to work for me.

[@livefreeandshred9818]

Shimano chain, cassette, chain, and brakes. Gx AXS derailleur and shifter, sram fork and shock 👌

[@wildman9364]

I got mostly sram/rockshox. one bike is pike with sram gx but SLX brakes going to upgrade the front to XT. remedy is lyrik and super deluxe with sram GX and Code brakes. havent done much Fox suspension though

[@nikolavrckovic1588]

To fix shimano wandering bite point, use Putoline HPX R 2.5W fork oil. It works.

[@mamo4731]

Might try it. Shimano mineral oil has a viscosity of 8mm²/s(40°) meanwhile the putoline is 6.76mm²/s. Viscosity is the main cause of eandering bite point, tested a citroen mineral oil (14mm²/s) and wandering bite point felt horrible. Retested with shimano oil then citroen and its the viscosity. But doesn't it damage the seals or the brake/calliper?

[@nikolavrckovic1588]

@@mamo4731 I did not come up with the idea of Putoline oil, I found it on various forums. I haven't come across any comments that they affect the seals or anything else. I have had this oil in my brakes for a year and so far everything is fine. I'm just once bleed the levers after puting new oil.

[@mtbtelly5522]

@@nikolavrckovic1588 this is interesting, I wonder is the maxima 3wt plush will work the same?

[@nikolavrckovic1588]

@@mtbtelly5522 MAXIMA PLUSH 3WT has a viscosity of 14mm²/s(40°) according to official data. I conclude that it would be even worse than before. Putoline is water like. .... like wd-40. Quite a thin liquid.

[@mtbtelly5522]

@@nikolavrckovic1588 alright sweet, thanks I’ll check out the putoline setup

[@JamesLG4]

When you bleed Shimano brakes do you do the “lever bleed” with brake pads and rotors in-place or do you do 100% of the bleed procedure with the bleed block in-place?

[@mtbtelly5522]

When theyre new I do the full bleed, now its just lever bleed mostly

[@dzastafahrai]

@@mtbtelly5522 would be great to have your tutorial on how to properly bleed shimano, similar what you did with SRAM. I just exchanged Code R to XT's, but can't get proper bleed, they are fine, but would like to have it sharper feel.

[@shannonmeehan]

Hey mate. Would you use a 150mm fox performance fork or Rockshox Lyrik fork on a stumpjumper 22 alloy? Running a fox float x 190x45 in the rear.

[@shannonmeehan]

Oh and I ride steep rock garden stuff around woronora heights.

[@mtbtelly5522]

I’d go a Lyrik for sure, but both forks will be killer

[@shannonmeehan]

@@mtbtelly5522 thanks brother.

[@marcinbalcer1772]

shimano xt works flawesly comparing to sram code r but lever fades after good smashing on bikepark

[@Dawks12]

I agree SRAM brakes are ok but generally are a bit crap after a few months. I had some hope E4s and Jesus they were insane. Even compared to any Shimano brake I’ve had. I’d say hopes are well worth the money.

[@NM4500]

Cheaper Shimano brakes don't seem to have the wandering bite point issue. My older Deore set has always been flawless. XT has the problem for me.

[@andersonramalho3225]

Shimano/fox🤙

[@wangelite5279]

have u tried the hope v4 brake?

[@mtbtelly5522]

No I haven’t yet

[@brandonarch2906]

I am tired of bending SRAM cranks so I am going to give Shimano a try.

[@mtbtelly5522]

I’ve never bent a 165 sram crank, but have bent a couple 175s back in the day. I’m pretty light but

[@flyingnorseman]

Shimano is just better engineered. Easier to work on and more durable construction. Also prefer Fox.

[@laurynasjagelo5075]

as much as I agree on all points shimano brakes, I've never broken as many leavers as shimano; pretty much every crash they get bent and snagged due to brittle alloy. You can't replace a lever or parts individually, so a new brake needs to be bought. Also, the freehub body on the horizons sports super soft splines.

[@janeblogs324]

The little lever bearings in SRAM brakes keeps exploding on me, the tiny m4 screw bends too. Our lever blades should have dedicated shoulder bolts like shimano. Hope finally 20 years later fixed the free hub body with 1 steel spline

[@mtbtelly5522]

Ah yes I’ve noticed the soft splines. It has already sheered off the end of 1 spot. Good point about levers as well. It can get expensive when you’re replacing them semi regular

[@laurynasjagelo5075]

@@mtbtelly5522 the freehub body is a rebranded spank hex; so you can fit spank's stuff on nukeproof (running this combo now) in case of availability etc.

[@lenolenoleno]

Solve your wandering bite point issues with Putoline HPX R 2.5w fork oil. All the Germans do it with Shimano's and gets rid of it.

[@mtbtelly5522]

Killer tip! Thanks for that

[@edwardpacocha]

🍀 'Promosm'