PUSHING FILM AND TESTING ILFORD HP5 400

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

If you like this video please consider subscribing and hitting that bell button to get notifications of my next videos! Cheers!

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

One minute in and you have said more than most other film youtube channels in there whole existence.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I can ramble on Nicos! 🙊

[@SuperSomphon]

Agreed!

[@Micantropo78]

Yup! Straight to the point and no bullshit!

[@irials]

It's largely thanks to this video that I bought a can of HP5 to shoot and try out printing at a friend's lab. You're Ilford's best salesman.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Glad you liked it

[@Kaufeetimevideo]

Back in newspaper days I pushed film often. Indoor sports even group pictures. Not concerned about grain as the pictures were used on newsprint. Very useful tool

[@brianorakpohit]

Interesting vid. Subscribed! I pushed HP5 to 800 on a roll I shot of the birth of my son in February. It came out beautifully, and so did Leon!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Wow. Congratulations. I feel Leon will have lots of Negs to look back on in years to come! Thanks ms for the sub. Enjoy the channel Brian.

[@brianorakpohit]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks. Im going to make a one off book of all 36 frames, contact sheet already done, the works. That roll was actually the turning point for me with HP5. Such versatility.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@brianorakpohit I like HP5. As you say very versatile. Hope we get to see pages from the book

[@davidjb9199]

Enjoyed your video. Experimentation does not have to be completely rigorous to be valuable. As long as you apply a bit of organizational discipline and learn from your findings (which you shared-thank you), then it is all worthwhile. Thanks for the work. I have been dabbling in this for about 50 years and there is always more to learn! Cheers!

[@ssmith954]

Great video! I actually started pushing by necessity, as I always have a yellow or orange filter on the lens, and the filter factor means losing box speed. At the moment I'm happy with HP5+ pushed to 800 or 1600 ISO, and developed in DD-X.

[@omnesilere]

Thanks for sharing! I love when people share good film tests.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I enjoy testing and playing with stuff. I felt this time I need to test it with my normal developing process for proper tests but it's good for a starting reference. Thanks!

[@jameslane3846]

Nice comparison video! I've done a project on photographing animals at the London Zoo on HP5 at 1600. With the right technique in DD-X, I am able to control contrast to reasonable levels and minimise grain compared to what I have seen on the internet!

[@AlexScene]

I love to push film. Even if it doesn't come out that great, it is fun to see your favorite film come out looking completely wacky. The internet hates when people push film though for some reason.

[@jasongold6751]

Thank You! Loved using film cannister as tank! I thought more contrast? No. I will develop HP5+ longer in Blazinal/Rodinal. I need contrast. Great video.

[@amosk24]

Great setup and experiment. Thank you for sharing the results!

[@epstar83]

Nice experiment! I’ve had luck pushing HP5 to 3200 using DD-X and the times on the bottle. Great result!

[@JohnDoe-cd6ro]

Thank you for the time and effort it took to put this video together.

[@joshneill7695]

Another great video Roger!! Hp5 is normally great when pushed 2 stops, so it could be worth shooting half a roll on different subjects, that way you'll know if the metering is off or the develop times are out.. its not like you to get muddy images! Keep up the good work and Thank you for posting your experiments! 👍😊

[@PeteMP3]

If the spot metering was off the white gazebo, the meter will have put it in zone V but the gazebo looks as though it should be in zone VI or VII. Perhaps an incident reading would have been better. I think this is the cause of the muddy images. The negatives haven't been developed long enough.

[@pedronunes6401]

Even tho they look muddy, buy your prints i think you are still able to get prints with a good tonality if you use a split grade filtering proccess, where you first expose for the highlights using a low grade, and after you establish your highlights you use that time and had to it with a higher grade to find the correct exposure for the blacks

[@deemdoubleu]

I have to do an outdoor photo shoot and bought 6 rolls of HP5 for the job (I'm using a Yashica MAT TLR as it happens). Only thing is I want to be able to have some latitude for adjustment of aperture to get different effects. So it made me think that perhaps I should set the aperture and shutter speed to a center value e.g. F8 and 1/60. Then adjust the film speed dial for correct match needle exposure under the general conditions. That way I should have some latitude for adjustment. i.e. setting the film speed to the conditions for most flexibility. Just wondered if this makes any sense (I'm certainly not a pro).

[@JonnyEnglish-gu1cs]

I know this video is 3 years old but it’s still relevant and informative thanks interesting results just started to play around with Rodinal I like it not tried X- Tol may have to give it a go

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Cheers Jonny. I didn't realise it that 3 years ago!

[@clauszurbig4967]

I push HP5 always to 800 and develop at 20 deg C in Ilford DDX. Grain is comtrolled by agitation. If I agitate only softly for 5s per minute I get very low grain.

[@bedevere007]

Great video and thanks for the chart link. I'm going to try xtol since I heard good things about it. I currently use rodinal.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

It's a good allrounder. I like it. I've even used it for stand development 1:20 2 hours. Good results.

[@bedevere007]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss nice

[@laugary8186]

Great Video,Thank you,but why HP5 EI400 develop time have 6mins and 8.5mins?

[@killer120070507]

I recently shot a roll of HP5+ at 12800. Shot it on my Bronica ETRS (120 645), great results. 2 hours of semi stand in Dilution B HC110

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

12800!! lol. Emense. Did you lose contrast with the stand?

[@Socrates...]

I hope you revisit this and do another video on this topic sometime

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Something I'd like to see is a good hand in hand mix. I may try some Microphen and HP5.

[@dejong431]

Hi, great experiment, you could try some other developers. Amaloco 74 is powerful, like Rodinal / Compard R09. FOr the pushing i would stay on the higher concentrations.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Yeah I have had good gritty results with Rodinal!

[@RickMahoney2013]

Looks like a Nikon D90 or D90s. I love Nikon film cameras that is all I use now presently I have 2 Nikon N75 cameras try using one of them Rodger.

[@geko9425]

I have no experience with film (too young). I take the camera from my father (Zenit ET with a Helios 44-2) , bought an Ilford HP5+ and made the first Photograph today. It was a really interesting experience and I am feeling curious now, even a few hours after my shoot 😁. I want just to know if I did everything right. I metered the scene with a Canon 60d before (at ISO 400, 50mm f4.5, 1/125s) just to got an Idea of the exposure. After this I metered with the Zenit (it has a Selenium metering cell which is still working - but I dont know if the cell is doing it right) and got the value 1/125s at ISO 400 and 58mm f4. After that I did my first picture.... Did I make everything right?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Sounds like you did. Nothing wrong in using a dslr for metering and checking the scene. I do occasionally. You'll only know when you dev the film and if you develop it well you should have nice negatives. Let us know and we'll done.

[@geko9425]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thank you! I hope it will be good. Unfortunately I am not developing by myself, but maybe in the future

[@aantonic]

i have had my Zenit ET with 44-2 lenses since i am in high school, just recently took it out and made some film photos. When scanning film i found alot of grain, but when i printed on paper in darkroom , everything look good as it should be, i used ilford delta400. Right now i have triX in my Zenit, will develop in Rodenal(Adox)

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@aantonic Tri-x is a nice punchy film. I notice more grain if I scan compared to my prints.

[@gabequezada2066]

First time I have seen your video... Outstanding... Thank you

[@acidsnow5915]

i love pushing film, it has been a while since i have tried it since my lab doesn't process pushed film thanks for sharing, really enjoyed watching this :D

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Change your lab!

[@1989Goodspeed]

Brilliant video, very informative. Keep it up!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks T.B !

[@zigaar]

Great video! I love pushing b&w film. I was wondering how did you manage to cut the film right before developing it!?

[@content_unaware_phil]

Interesting video. One thing I don't understand is when you use those film canisters with a long-ish piece of film, the film will overlap itself - how does the developer etc contact the film sufficiently if the film is overlapped? Standard development tanks have reels to keep the film apart which you won't have in the canisters. (Hope this makes sense...)

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Good question. Usually I'll cut one or two frames for that reason. In this case I chose the best frame from each strip. A couple you could see an overlapping issue. But the ones I chose looked fine

[@content_unaware_phil]

Thanks

[@davefaulkner6302]

I had the same question. I don't think this development technique is valid because the film does not contact the solution on both sides. This could affect the results.

[@kamaksi24]

So i just recently came across this bit of information and thought you might like to try this. I am a fan of XTOL just like you, but never thought of using rodinal quite like this. I believe you use rodinal quite frequently and thought maybe you could do this test again with this set up. According to this info i found they have done this for sometime with good results. I personaly viewed the pictures my self was was quite surprised! The one catch they pointed out was the development must be right on the money! Push 35mm HP5 with Rodinal. stand develop for one hour using the following ratios: Box Speed - 1+100 or 3ml Rodinal in 300ml water +1 (800ISO) moves to 4ml Rodinal in 300ml water +2 (1600ISO) gets 5ml Rodinal in 300ml water +3 (3200ISO) is 6ml Rodinal in 300ml water +4 (6400ISO) is 7ml Rodinal in 300ml water All times stay at one hour and temp is always 20 Celsius. I do one minute of light agitation at the start then let it sit for the duration. This is all based on some advice I was given a while back and it has worked well for me.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Interesting. I've used Rodinal for years to stand develop and use 10ml minimum for 120 or 35mm. I've tried 3ml, 5ml for stand but once read you should use at least 8ml for stand as smaller dilutions exhaust too quickly. That said, I'm gonna test this out and see what happens! I will shoot a 35mm film at various speeds, same subject and dump it in a 10ml stand and make a contact print. Should be interesting. Thanks for the info!

[@markharris5771]

I have very mixed feelings about pushing film. In the good old days of 3 channels and black and white TV we only pushed film out of necessity, and sometimes we got interesting and even good images. What puts me off is when people are pushing film before they’ve learnt how to make an image, so you end up with a bad photograph with the film taken out of its box speed. The two together can be a total disaster. As always a great video, and I really enjoy your experiments.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I guess you learn by your mistakes though. I have Mark! lol. As long as it's not an expensive one, ouch!

[@the.negative]

Mark I am interested in learning a good recipe for pushing Triax would you be able to share what development times and temperatures and developers you use back in the day

[@markharris5771]

the negative I always used Rodinal because of its longevity as well as the look. The times then depends on how much you have pushed your film and your dilution. I have to hold my hand up and admit I never used to shoot much Tri-X always preferring Ilford HP5+.

[@the.negative]

@@markharris5771 I am bulk rolling HP5 myself but I have found tri-x and HP5 to be very similar. I shoot both at 100 usually but I would like to try some night shooting without flash. I think I might have a bottle of rodinal somewhere actually.

[@markharris5771]

the negative Kodak actually brought out Tri-X in direct competition with the original HP5, not the HP5+ we now have. If both are developed in the native developer ie Tri-X in HC-110 and HP5+ in DD-X there is even less difference. On KZbin you’ll get comparisons where both are developed in the same developer which isn’t a true test (unless it’s Rodinal). The Massive Dev chart is the best place to go for times, and then there’s the information that comes with the films it’s usually quite comprehensive. I keep thinking about bulk loading and then I’ll be laid up for 3 months without firing a shot either film or digital. If I was in better health I would definitely do it.

[@d3DMediaPaintStudio]

Hello, I have a question and not sure if you can help. I accidentally did a light reading at 200 ISO and set my camera to these settings but the film I used is HP5 Plus 400 iso. The camera was set at ISO 400. hehehe So I am trying to figure out how to develop this film. I have Rodinal and Ilford Ilfotec HC. I would like to get fine grain is possible. Any suggestions will be appreciated. I am sure this will be a learning experience after developing my film. :-)

[@d3DMediaPaintStudio]

I think I figure it out. I just need to develop the film using the 200 ISO developer guidelines. :-) Sorry been working long hours. I still would like to hear your input. :-)

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

If you develop normally you'll have an over exposed negative by 1 stop. Hp5 can handle that well. If you shorten the Develop time (the times you see for 200) that will be "pulling" the film which will give you a flatter less contrasty negative. Either way you'll still have a useable negative to print or process. I'd be inclined to develop at 200 if you want finer grain.

[@d3DMediaPaintStudio]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thank you and this was good information! :-)

[@d3DMediaPaintStudio]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss One last question. Dilution - On Massive Dev Charts they can give you several developer considerations in the dilution for the same ISO. What is the effect of the film? Does the concentration of the developer affect the grain in the film? I have always been curious about this.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@d3DMediaPaintStudio I did some tests of this with xtol. Here's the vid. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jKPVlYWZj96eZ5o

[@Jerry10939]

Do you use standard paper or multi-contrast paper. I know when I worked as a photographer. I could have gotten a good print out of the 3200 with the multi-contrast paper. And burn and dodge and working it in the developer. For 2 1/2 years that’s all I did was take pictures and make prints. Mine and everyone else’s in the office I worked. We had a publication to put out. And they had to be a certain contrast and quality. But in our case we didn’t want the grain. I pushed film on occasion. But when TMax 3200 came out. I used that for those lowlight and action shots with decent grain.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I use Multigrade paper and control the contrast with Ilford MG Filters. Usually a 2.5 grade filter I use for most prints but I can then change the contrast if I need to with other filters.

[@zhongyao-sc1lj]

I confuss why iso 1600 have such small contrast?

[@Harlequin565]

Really interesting and enjoying your videos. Do you have a view on low light film at around 3200. Delta 3200 vs HP5 or Tri-X pushed?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

From what I've read Ilford 3200 is really a 800 film. I like using 3200 films. Always nice grain when developed normally and even more so when pushed a stop. My recent street photography video shows me using a 3200 film

[@TrashTheLens]

Pushing film like a boss :)

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Dunno about that but I give it a go! Cheers!

[@pradabean1851]

Such a great video!

[@haymobachmaier]

Great results! thanks alot

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Cheers for watching

[@CertainExposures]

Are you sure it was too short a development time and not an inaccurate spot meter in your camera or possibly inaccurate shutter speed values in your camera (e.g. maybe 1/1000 fires at 1/450 due to age and maintenace)? If so, then why? I am curious because I plan to develop myself some day. Great video - thanks for sharing!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

That's why I used that camera. It's shutters are electrical unlike my others that are mechanical. It's spot on. Definitely under development. Thanks for asking 😁

[@CertainExposures]

Oh ok. Thanks for the response

[@inevitablecraftslab]

i like the idea of developing in the small film boxes, but what i dont get is how did you prevent the film from touching the wall? was there any kind of distance piece in the canister?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

As long as the emulsion side isn't against the wall of the canister and the film strip is at a length where it's not overlapping itself you're fine.

[@inevitablecraftslab]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss hmm .. got a point here :) I will try that when i shoot 135 next time, too bad there are no 120 plastic canisters, would love to test stuff out in small portions.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I did once. I actually glued 2 canisters together so the height was enough for 120 film strips. So I cut one at the bottom and slid it over the other, if that makes sense. Had to use gaffer tape to make the seal water tight but it worked.

[@fact30]

great channel, keep the good work, cheers!!!

[@Curry952]

I’ve adopted a technique from NickExposed of developing one stop over the exposure index. Shoot at 800, dev at 1600. Shoot at 1600 dev at 3200. Etc

[@geko9425]

This technique is well known for years...

[@polishaztec]

I think you should try metering for something else, white canvas might have fooled the camera and that's why these negs and prints look so off

[@fotosaurier35]

Very interesting; Thank You for sharing!

[@benjohan4]

Good video as always and on an interesting topic. Have you ever tested or thought of testing developing film in papper developer? This is something that I do and it can give grater contrast (and probably bigger grain) depending on dilution then normal developers, for example I accidentally developed HP5 plus in Ilford Multigrade diluted at 1+6 (was going for 1+60) and developed for 8min and got contrasty negs. Could make for an interesting video.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

No way! Ha Ha!!! I'll have to try that!

[@benjohan4]

You should definitely try it, one could also test with different temperatures to see how that would affect the film. Just developed a roll of tmax 100 in Kodak Polymax T diluted at 1+61 for 8min at 20c with great results. Great for when on a tight budget as well.

[@charlieb.4273]

Great video, I’ve been thinking of doing a similar experiment for some time. Hey, I’m in London for a couple of weeks from the states, can you recommend a store I can get more ilford film if I need more? I know you had a video where you sent your wife to get some a few weeks ago. I’m a big fan, every time I see your videos I want to shoot, developer and print more. Charlie

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Charlie. Jessops I'm Oxford Street is the only place I found however that Street Video comments some people mentioned a couple of other places. Just Google it but Oxford Street has been the closest for me each time I have been there.

[@timbiddulph]

Hi Charlie, the photographer’s gallery and Lomography shop are in that central area too. That’s where I would go.

[@charlieb.4273]

Tim Biddulph Thanks!

[@charlieb.4273]

Thanks for the help guys, Jessops only had two rolls of the ilford delta 100 I was looking for. The classic camera shop they sent me to was a fussy Lieca place, but the camera museum just south of the British museum was spot on. Photography in London is a blast. Thanks for your help.

[@TheChironium]

Hey love your channel. I have just got in to home developing and currently have only used the cinestill df96 and I am looking to buy a different developer for pushing film. I experiment with a bunch of types of film so my question is what would you recommend a good developer to buy would be for pushing film?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks. Good Solid all round developers like D76, XTOL, DDX are fine for a one stop push. If you need more speed Ilfords Microphen is designed for that. Saying that you may like the results D76 or XTOL or DDX give you for a 2 or even 3 stop push. There are many variables with films and developers for pushing giving different results of sharpness, grain and contrast. All you can do is experiment until you find the look you like.

[@TheChironium]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thanks I am definitely in the experimental mode, I guess I am just seeking a bit of advice as a good one to start my experimenting on next.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@TheChironium Work with a good all round developer and a few different films. You'll get to know it's ups and downs, then try another developer, and so on. Good luck 👍

[@TheChironium]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thanks, definately the plan...i just decided to pick something randomly and go from there! Just ordered some Diafine, and Xtol to start with

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@TheChironium I've never tried it. Tim Layton has a good write up on it. www.timlaytonfineart.com/blog/2015/3/diafine-a-black-and-white-developer

[@kuraxxkura]

Hi! Thanks for the video. I’ve recently got into film photography and developed my first ever hp5plus roll. I shot at box speed and the results came out grainier than I expected. I just wanted to ask about pushing film. When you push film, for example, do you shoot at 800iso and develop at that speed? Or do you shoot at box speed but develop at 800iso? Thanks and great channel!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

If you push HP5 at 800 then effectively you are under exposing your film by 1 stop. So to compensate for that your develop time would be longer than the recommended time for normal 400 speed. The Massive Dev Chart has most of the develop times listed for your film/developer combination. I use it when I'm not sure of times. Hope this helps.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Also HP5 can produce grain depending on what developer you use. I found it best in Kodak D76 and Ilford ID11. I used it a few times in Rodinal and got more grain.

[@beaupfeifferrecordings]

I did try some HP5 @ 800 one time rodger and used LC29 developer good for scanning but Ive heard I try to shoot @ box speed can be more costly buying delta 3200 just me being antsy but I do like your film container technique some times I just want to burn through the whole roll because Im excited about the first few frames I normally do a 1:29 mix with my LC29 so if I was to do it in a container I would need 1.03ml of LC29 have to try this one day Ive always bein afraid of bumping the shutter curtains in the dark bag pussy I am lol

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Ha Ha try it out Beau

[@beaupfeifferrecordings]

on my F50 not my F4

[@ktezgel]

good content mate !

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Cheers Kerem.

[@tandartan7778]

T.y......great videos

[@jmarvosa6x3]

Thank you!!

[@petrikajander953]

Hi, i know it's kinda late to comment but anyhow: You should really try to develop with ID-11 and push all the way to 3200. I'll prefer stock developing, but you can push HP5+ film up to 3200 when you dilute id-11 1:1. Grain is very smooth, alltough at higer ISO it will lack some contrast, but you can solve that with more red filter in print developing.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Petri

[@Azety93]

i love your video. it is nice to show a lot of things like you do, and to explain details. And i like your accent, its pleasant (im tired of U.S. accent). Cheers from France

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Geoffrey

[@eherrmann01]

If you're a fan of grain shoot some HP5 @ 1600 and develop it in DD-X :)

[@richardstollar4291]

So you do have an easel - why don't you use it any more? ;)

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I have easels for 10x8 paper max. Anything above I make templates

[@jameslowe1702]

Great vid Rog 😎

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Cheers Jimbo

[@siypic]

Developing in film canisters........ first timeI've seen that...

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Try it

[@siypic]

A whole roll? (36exp) ...........@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@siypic lol, no. Usually only a frame or two. Cut from the roll.

[@siypic]

Right.......... lol @@ShootFilmLikeaBoss

[@BillPutnamPhoto]

Had a question about developing bits in canisters: how do you change switch from dev to stop?

[@RickMahoney2013]

I think I will buy a shirt from you to help you out.

[@grahamparton7508]

Shooting hp5 at 800 and developing at 1600 and really nice results, well...I like it!! IG: grayparts.ii

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

It's not an ideal scene for pushing but ideal for seeing the grain. Thanks for the comment!

[@michaelharmon7162]

Old news considering I was doing this nearly 35 years ago.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

That's nothing. I know a gentlemen that was doing this 55 years ago. Nice guy too