SHOP TIPS

[@burly_girly]

Mr. Pete, there is no such thing as "yet another threading video", everone has different learning styles, and as such, a new way of seeing something helps those of us who are tactile learners. Thank you for offering another viewpoint and instructions.

[@pjhalchemy]

Definitely not boring and every one I find a new tidbit that helps or at least makes me giggle! This time I think it finally hit home about why the 29/30º on the compound is needed, thanks to you! Like so many others say below, some of us can't afford Kennametal bits let alone one of their holders, so I am appreciative of being able to do some of the things I do with with minimal and not so high end tools. The foundation of All Tools are Master teachers and Master tradesmen that inform and inspire us to use our minds and hands to the creative process and actualization...IMHO. Looking forward to the thread mic and wires video! Thanks, Mr. Pete.

[@mrpete222]

+pjsalchemy Thanks for watching

[@jameslezak7882]

I buy used brand name when I can find them, but I have no complaints with foreign made holders. Some foreign made inserts are really junk but some are really good. Luck of the draw I guess.

[@scotthelton2135]

Thanks for the good information. I went to machine shop school 25 years ago and had forgot alot of the things that I was supposed to remember. I just recently bought a lathe and a milling machine and you have helped me numerous times by refreshing my cloudy little mind.. thanks again your a good teacher

[@mrpete222]

THANKS FOR WATCHING--glad you bought some machines. Glad to help too

[@enigmamotorsport]

Great Video, you are a library of education 👏 Thanks for your teaching

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@grego3150]

excellent video as always Mr Pete. Your videos are never boring, I always pick something up and your delivery is superb.

[@w056007568]

Truly excellent throughout with brilliant photography. I have a clear understanding of what to do. I'm looking forward to the next instalment!

[@mrpete222]

+Dan Whiteford Thanks for watching

[@scratch_440]

Just what i was looking for as i start my adventures in threading! Thanks for sharing. I truly enjoy your content.

[@RaysGarage]

Hey MrPete, One can never review single point threading enough and it's never boring! I use the same Shars threading tool and have had excellent results on many different materials time after time! Thanks for sharing! Ray

[@mrpete222]

+Ray Caniglia Thanks for watching

[@thejoker-pd9df]

Thanks for the refresher on threading and the tip about Shars tooling. Merry Christmas to you and yours, MrPete.

[@MikeGalusha]

Agree with the others, nothing boring about threading videos even if you've been doing it for 40 years. No idea why I find it so fascinating but I always do.

[@kenzpenz]

I am new at this, so I can't get enough of threading, so I look forward to your next video. This one is great, as are the others. Thanks for making these great videos.

[@mrpete222]

+Kenneth Bartlett Thanks for watching

[@RalfyCustoms]

Just what I needed sir thank you, I've ordered the right change gears, and my Harrison 140 is all set to go, I just need to check how to use an insert, as my tool steel is not here yet. Mr Pete thank you once again

[@samalverio6208]

I see nor do I accept any reason for anyone tocrktize you for using some less expensive and affordable tools ...thank you. Thank you and letting me know about all those fine stuff you put on your video...I have yet to hit the lotto so saving a few bucks and looking forward a good deal man's a lot....keep up the good work ....sam

[@mrpete222]

+Sam Alverio Thanks-Iguess we all have to watch the pennies

[@qzwqsy]

Thank you very much for your videos Mr. Pete

[@russtuff]

I've had decent luck with Shars, and I consider them great for hobbiests thanks to the price. Of course a production shop may not get much use from cheaper tools, but it really let's the weekend warrior get stuff done.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@JohnJones-op8uf]

Thanks Lyle, Love my Shars tools!

[@shadowdog500]

Can't have enough threading videos! Well done as usual! Chris

[@hankus253]

I know my recently acquired Atlas lathe is just itching to cut a thread. I'm thinking after this review I'm ready now to finally give it a try. Thank you MrPete.

[@MyShopNotes]

Thanks for the great vid mrpete. Being a hobbyist I enjoy the detail you provide, it really helps.

[@mrpete222]

+Steve S Thanks for watching

[@waynemontgomery8484]

thanks for your great videos, I have been watching for about two years. i'm sixty four and still learn something each time.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks-and much more to come

[@gwkdad]

Ha! I recently bought a lathe for retirement and I got a older unused one from a local high school like the one I used in my high school days. It's really cool to see you using a Clausing like mine. I have the 5902 12x24 Varispeed which is very nearly identical to this one.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@iiinsaiii]

I enjoy your video's very much, thank you. Keep them coming.

[@davidgreen2442]

Excellent video, very well and simply explained, keep em comming

[@tomauth3419]

Thanks , very informative. I agree with you on the affordability of import tooling .I try to buy as much U.S. made things,but it is getting tough to afford it. Thanks again for the video and keep them coming.

[@mrpete222]

+Tom Auth Thanks for watching

[@mack255]

Keep it up I like everything you do and for those people that don't like there is that big red X up in the right hand corner use it.

[@machinists-shortcuts]

You can simply keep the compound set at zero, parallel to the bed and advance the compound half the depth of cut for each pass. By moving the compound and also the cross slide this closely simulates the 30 degree angle. This method also helps with the depth of the thread as the depth is directly on the cross slide dial ( dro ). The tool load is split 87/13 so the trailing edge skims the right hand flank and the leading edge does the majority of the cutting. It's usually best to remove the sharp peaks of the threads before trying the nut, if you get the nut to fit without removing the burrs then it will be loose when you do remove them. Having sharp peaks running on the root radius of the female thread can cause galling and prevents the thread flanks from engaging.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi mrpete, As always excellent videos, whatever subject you treat. Don't forget to mention "Lighter cuts and the highest possible speed possible with those inserts, cause it will be costly on the long run" Better practice with HSS tools first. Happy Holidays to you and family, Pierre

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@grahamspinks4801]

Just a comment on the setting angle for the compound.The reason for setting it to just under half the tip angle is so that the tool does cut on the back face.It's obviously a fine cut but I believe the reason is to improve the finish.I always used to set to half the tip angle because that was how I was taught to do it tens of years ago.It has only been in the last year or so where I've had to cut several threads and worms that I started to give thought to why one degree less was usually recommended.Keep the videos coming - Graham

[@KeithFenner]

That was great, never can have to many threading videos and I like when each of us in the community create one we all include just a little something left out or a good add to the subject the other didn't happen to include in the project at hand. ;{)-----

[@mrpete222]

Thanks Keith. It seems there is always someone new watching that really enjoys it. pete

[@fordsure]

I whole heartedly agree, i like those videos!

[@BigMjolnir]

I'm watching all I can find...I got a South Bend 9" a couple of months ago, and have been trying out the things I've been watching on KZbin for the last year or so, mostly with success thanks to the great instruction. Threading is one I haven't tried yet, but will be very soon. One thing I haven't got my head around yet is the relationship between threads per inch and which divisions you can use on the threading dial. I'm not even sure it's the same for each lathe. May need to sit down with a paper and pencil and work out the gear ratios and lead screw thread pitch. Thanks for covering the insert method...and showing a holder and inserts I might actually be able to afford! I'm going to start with a hand ground HSS tool (want to learn how...and I have an old lathe, so I should learn the old way anyhow!), but I think the inserts have some advantages, even for hobby folks like me. -- Mike

[@KeithFenner]

BigMjolnir Hi Mike, You are right, some lathes vary on thread dial engagements, keep in mind that the thread dial is for engagement timing control. all pitch control is done at the gear change box. Some odd numbered pitches, like 11, 13, 15 etc.will determine your limited engagement locations. It is best to make a ghost pass / likely touching, for your first pass like Mr. Pete showed. you can also chuck up on a piece of all thread, with it sticking out to engage different spots on the dial and with your bit hovering over the thread you can see following, half thread engagements and if you are repeating on every number, line etc. ;{)-----

[@BigMjolnir]

Keith, Thanks, I'll try that. My South Bend is a Model A, so I have the quick change gear box for setting thread pitch. I've got some 1/2" mild steel rod from the local hardware store that I'm planning to practice on. It's good to know that not every lathe has the same thread dial behavior...not so much because I'll be using a lot of lathes, but so I know what to remember, and what not to copy, when I'm watching videos showing threading and the person says what options they have for engagement. BTW - I'm still working my way slowly through your videos...I want to watch them from the beginning and not miss anything! ;-) Thanks! -- Mike

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

I've recently purchased some Shars tooling, looks to be very good quality from what I can tell.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Great video. looking forward to you next video on how to Measure threads.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@joeestes8114]

Thanks for making this video, Iam new at this so Iam just learning about this although I was a mechanic all my life so Iam familiar with threads not so much machining threads.:)

[@MrCrispinEnterprises]

Good video. We have go / no go gauges at work for many things including threads. However I have never seen other ways to measure threads so that will be interesting.

[@mrpete222]

+MrCrispin96 Thanks for watching

[@johnnybarbar7435]

The 1 degree less causes the right side of the 60 deg tool to stay in light contact with the right side of the cut. It helps to keep the right side of the thread smooth instead of being rough or stepped

[@andymandyandsheba4571]

you tell them mr pete your show great video keep cranking them out

[@dwightcarlson7136]

I have seen other videos where it is suggested that the final cut be made by advancing the cross feed rather than the compound. perhaps one or two thousands so that on the final cut the right and left side of the tool both remove a small amount of material. Supposedly this makes the right side just as smooth as the left side. One other video presenter said that one can approximate the total compound feed amount by dividing 0.708 by the number of threads per inch. I have not found this described anywhere else. ?????

[@toddlfrank]

I have one of these cutters not Shars but one Iike it and it works great plus you can machine a lot of threads with the same corner. My favorite threading material is 12L14 or stressproof.

[@OyvindRyeng]

I'm really looking forward to the next video.

[@johnstrange6799]

Thank you for all of your video information, always appreciated. Merry Christmas to you and yours btw.

[@mikeadrover5173]

As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~

[@adamchandler3162]

Thank you Mr Pete

[@68sweetnovember]

very well explained. Great Lyle....

[@cooperbaker]

This is fascinating - thanks Mr. Pete... So, the compound set to 29 or 30 degrees ensures that only the back face of the tool is cutting, to make a better finish, correct? If the compound was set to 90 degrees, would it still be possible to cut the same thread by incrementally plunging the tool perpendicularly into the work, but maybe with worse finish? Is this sort of plunging how square threads are cut?

[@JamesDedmon]

Two things, l went ahead and just bought the set, my thought was between the individual cost of the tool and inserts it just was a better deal. Also I tend to use Shars ebay store, unless they have changed their shipping policies they want to UPS from the Web store, but will use the USPS to ship from their ebay store. Hope this helps.

[@mrpete222]

+James Dedmon Thanks for watching

[@stefanoworx]

Great Job! Keep up the good work.

[@melgross]

Actually, some small cutting does indeed take place on the tip of the right side. The SB book itself does state that “most” of the cutting takes place on the leading edge. Each time you move the cutter in for the next cut, you will have a step on the trailing edge, usually the right side. The trailing edge cuts that step off. It’s geometry. Draw it out as to how the tool steps, and you’ll see it. The real reason why we tend to set the compound to 29 or 29.5 degrees instead of 30 degrees is a simple amount of tolerances and error. If you set it to 30, and you’re just a bit off on the high side, you will cut more than a 60 degree thread by twice the error. Setting a bit under 30 degrees doesn’t have that effect as long as the bit is set properly perpendicular to the work.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@RyanWeishalla]

9/16-18 strange? Try 11/16-18. I have an old mill holder I'm trying to build a new arbor for and I had to try to figure out what size it was. Finally figure out it was 11/16-18. The threads on the current arbor were so bad that I couldn't get a good measurement using the thread pitch gauge and so loose that measure the major diameter of the threads would give me good numbers. I was finally able to use the thread pitch gauge to measure the internal thread and figured out that the thread depth is always the same for the pitch and so was able to measure the minor diameter and then add in the depth to figure out what the proper size for the major diameter is and that it was 11/16. Looking forward to seeing your next videos on different methods of measuring if they are out before I cut the thread. Waiting on a new compound for my Atlas 10". The one I got on my new used one with the quick change gear box had a broken compound slide. It looks like somebody had buried a tool but in and the downward pressure snapped it in the T-Slot as it had been welded/brazed.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks--some threads are very hard to ID

[@fuzzy1dk]

afaiu the "correct" angle is 30, the reason for setting it to 29 is to make sure that isn't over 30, cutting a little on the back side is better than not at all

[@sthenzel]

Just my thought! A perfect 30 doesn´t hurt and may even better then a 29, but how much work do you have to put in to get a perfect 30? You can´t fully rely on the marks or on your eyes, so you stay a safe distance below 30. 29.5 would be ok, but where do you find half-degree marks? So 29 is it, easy to dial in and safe.

[@ajofscott]

Now I can see why my lathe threading attempts resulted in pulled threads as I was attempting to approach depth by advancing the crossfeed and was not using the compound at all. I can also see that this method does mitigate some of the lateral loading issues that the tool imposes on the work. Do you ever use a follower rest when threading?

[@mrpete222]

+Aaron Scott Thanks for watching

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Great video. I cut threads on my lathe because I don't have enough dies to cut all of the threads I might want. I would like to see you do metric thread cutting on the Craftsman lathe. I have a Craftsman lathe with the quick change gear box and I have some extra gears. I don't remember why I have them but some little voice in the back of my head says metric threading. Thanks for sharing.

[@2000WhiteRado]

According to the book I'm reading at the moment (Technology of Machine Tools, by McGraw Hill ca.1969) those gears should be 50 and 127 tooth. Which equals the ratio between English and Metric, 1"=2.54cm, there for 127 divided by 50 equal 2.54. When cutting them the half nut can not be disengaged, you have to back out then reverse the lathes direction to return to the start of the thread.

[@mrpete222]

+cerberus Thanks for watching

[@brianhilligoss]

In terms if finished threads is there any real difference in cutting threads with a lathe or with a die?

[@enigmamotorsport]

Questions, which Lathe will you recommend better a South Bend 16" x 6' 8117c or a Clausing Lathe 13" swing. Your help will be greatly appreciated Thanks

[@mrpete222]

Lots of things to consider. But I would prefer the closing. A 16 inch lathe probably bigger than you need

[@guilhermevictor3575]

VERY GOOD THIS VIDEO,THANKS FOR TIPS

[@jix177]

Poetry in motion. Just wondering: suppose you missed your timing badly on engaging the half nut, say by 180 degrees and near the end, could you break the tool since you're then pushing it into a full depth cut? I can see how the thread would certainly be destroyed alright. Thanks.

[@mrpete222]

+jix177 Thanks for watching

[@RaptorMachineToolCo]

Tony, great video.. lots of good info there... what size is your lathe... are you using an AXA or BXA size tool post, if you had the opportunity to start from scratch.. which size would you get ... and what size tool holders would you use with them.. thanks, Joe

[@shartne]

Interesting I always wanted to see that done.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@jeffward6342]

Thank you for the video.As usual,both amusing and informative.A question?On that last,skim,cut would changing the angle from 29 to 30 degrees also open up the thread enough to properly engage the nuts' thread?Or would it put undue pressure on the tool head and possibly damage the work?I realize that there are highly detailed processes and procedures for cutting threads but am curious.Maybe one of those solutions in search of a problem kinda things.:) Thanks again.

[@mrpete222]

I never tried that. I suppose it would work.

[@TheDisorderly1]

I'm sure you can also flip the insert over in the event that it becomes dull, assuming that it isn't broken of course.

[@mrpete222]

+TheDisorderly1 Thanks for watching

[@MultiChaga]

Mr Pete I need an advise here, you never mentionned about using a thread file. Can you give an opinion on the issue please, thanks very much.

[@mrpete222]

I do use them and like them. Mainly for thread restoration. I'm sure I have shown the reviews and videos from time to time

[@mattgwinner4783]

hi there let me start by thanking you for your videos they are VERY Helpful. I have tried this several times and need fine threads like 24 or 32, they all come out nut as a nice V like yours do the threads all "lean" toward the tailstock like saw teeth. do you have any suggestions for me. I also usually get a rough thread even cutting at 2-3 thou a pass with cutting fluid, everyone says it's due to the carbide cutter at slow speeds and they all grind there own steel bits.....you have proven with this video speed is not the issue so I am not sure why they are so angled and rough.

[@mrpete222]

+Gwinners Gunworks It seems like your tool is not square with the work. Also, what type of steel are u threading?

[@mattgwinner4783]

+mrpete222 not sure the steel type, practicing gun barrel threading and there lies one of the problems...the barrel being tapered I tried your align with the chuck instead of the gauge. I thought looking at the threads the it seemed the right side of the tool tip is cutting the threads instead of the left 60 degree angle.

[@GK1918]

No, this subject is not boring. And yes we have had good luck with Shars products with fast and usually free shipping. Can't wait for the pitch mic. I have a new one with interchangeable anvils, problem is - no way can I read the pitch sizes on the anvils, even with a spy glass. Don't know how they can make print that small..Don't know why I even bought it. We do a lot of keel bolt bronze threading about 2 ft. long, and for the perfect fit we use valve grinding compound and run a nut back & forth. Total old school but effective. Also effective I call it the 4 to 1, every 4 passes, a spring cut due to the length of the work between centers is a must for the long work. By the way, how come I click the like button it does not show up????? samuel

[@mrpete222]

Thanks--??? on the like button

[@awldune]

When you click the like button, you should see the icon turn blue. The number of likes does not update immediately.

[@kentuckycowboy2]

mrpete222 Thanks , I always wondered if it really updated or not but never failed to click it. And loved the threading video as well !

[@w7gee]

CAN YOU RECOMMEND A GOOD ALL AROUND THATHE FOR A BEGINNER, IM A MECHANIC AND RETIRED BUILDING CARS AND WHAT NOT, THANKS JOE.

[@mrpete222]

Atlas ,south bend or logan

[@richharr]

Has anyone made their own threading dial? My logan 10” change gear doesn’t have one and the want a “kings ransom” for one on ebay. Any links or videos would be appretiated

[@mrpete222]

Sorry. None to my knowledge

[@JAnderson68]

How do you figure out the depth of the "undercut?"

[@mrpete222]

+jea2caa find the minor diameter in machineries handbook

[@frankmolina3951]

is that tailstock center spinning or is it my imagination?

[@danielvandertorre368]

hi my name is dan van der torre I live in west Kelowna b.c. Canada I am a slow learner I am 55 and I too love whaceing youtube vidows I don't whach tv any more eather .god bless you for your vidows I have lerned so much form you sorry I don't spell ver y good I lern form seeing someone doing things and I am on youtube seeing how things are done it beets tv hands down lol lerning is more fun if I had a class in scool to work with metal I love working with metal have a good day god bless you and thank you for your chanel.dan

[@mrpete222]

+Daniel van der torre HI DAN- Thanks for watching. I'm glad my videos are enjoyable and help you.

[@73turbopinto]

Kennametal is making carbide tooling in China.

[@mrpete222]

+73turbopinto DISAPPOINTING!

[@dogbuggy32]

thank you

[@bobjimenez4464]

There’s nothing wrong with using SHARS tools, just like there’s nothing wrong with grinding your own threading tools. No fancy chip breaker like an ingersoll threading insert….unless you have a steady hand and grind them in : )

[@izzynutz2000]

who gives two bags of a dog's tail if you buy something overseas or not if it's a useful tool or it's easier to use what's the difference I mean I understand all about buying American

[@kenconfer5152]

cosmo41 I buy Shars because I can afford them and they work

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@tom7601]

The go/no go gauges are marked DoAll...

[@funone8716]

Imagine the reading and thinking needed to cut a manual VS a CNC thread. CNC is much more complicated.

[@mrpete222]

Yes

[@stuarth43]

ha, that's one noisy chaffcutter you have there, I r un A Cazeneuve 575x2000,probably quietest engine lathe made, it is now45 years old, t and I'm older by farr, thanks for vid me boy

[@dan27052]

I don't see the big deal, threading is easy.. It's easy to cut to deep, it's easy to catch the wrong number, it's easy to set it up wrong from the start. See, it's just easy.. Haha

[@DogsBAwesome]

Are the women who watch these and machine men too?

[@mrpete222]

+brian whittle Thanks for watching

[@TimPerfetto]

If you stop making videos about threading I will have a huge meltdown