SHOP TIPS

[@JaredAF]

All of these videos are useful even if I never make this tool. It puts my brain in the mindset of machining, which for me is trying to figure out a way to hold the work and hold the cutter in various ways that can improve accuracy, rigidity, efficiency, etc.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@PierreaSweedieCat]

I never had the chance to study this back in high school. But I want to tell you how much I have enjoyed the last few of tour videos, which I just discovered. I likely will not at the age of 60 ever do any of this, but it certainly is fascinating and educational. I hope that your videos are discovered by young people, as I think they could learn a lot! THANKS!

[@mrpete222]

+P.M. Laberge Thanks for watching

[@southjerseysound7340]

Take the plunge and buy yourself a little hobby lathe.Trust me you wont regret it and at some point you'll even wonder how you lived without it ;)

[@markkoons7488]

You're right that most viewers will never make a Morse taper center drill holder and also right about learning from seeing it explained as it is done. Thank you.

[@ironwrx]

Thank you. I particularly appreciate the part on anealing, as I need to do that presently in the shop.

[@mrpete222]

Glad it was helpful!

[@donpeterson9282]

Well done! Your skill as a professional trainer/instructor shows in the quality of the presentation, the visuals and the dialog. Your training videos are task based and flow. The camera angles provide an excellent visual of the process. The commentary is informative and well rehearsed but not excessive. Your voice is pleasant and your grammar is appropriate for the training exercise. The durations of the various aspects of the tasks are of appropriate length to demonstrate expected results. Key knowledge items are reinforced with voice, text and visuals. I rate your presentations as "exceeds expectations" in my humble opinion. Thank you for these very fine tutorials.

[@spikey2740]

Although my experience is minimal (hobbyist) , I enjoy watching the tubalcain series for the reasons you've stated.

[@TheGonzov]

thank you, I never comment on any videos because they are so good explained... but after months of learning from you I need to say THANKS!!!, your videos are so useful and inspiring to people like us.

[@johnq.public5911]

Mr. Pete, LeVerne from Maryland here. To stop the gear cover door from drifting open, I siliconed a small square magnet inside the door's edge so it touches the head when the door is closed. It works very well. No more door flopping open when using the upgraded 12" lathe with the Quick Change Box on my Craftsman/Atlas lathe. It was produced about 1950. Thank you for the idea.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks--good idea

[@captaingreenbush]

I've been using one of those end mill holders for a center drill for a few years, I simply put a long set screw in the draw bar hole so the tail stock screw could eject it, no need for the brass wedge

[@1345medford]

When Springfield Armory began building the 1903 rifle, it was found that some of the receivers were blowing up! Colonel Hatcher discover that the receivers were tempered by eye with natural lighting (back then the factories used skylights for lighting) and on bright days the steel they used became extremely brittle. Hatcher said some were so bad they would shatter like glass.

[@rayrussell2571]

Hi and thanks for a great video, you mentioned that from over 2k viewers that maybe 2 will make one, back in 1970s when I was an apprentice I made a set of 3 using the exact same way you have just done. It has brought back so many good memories that I can’t thank you enough, I have watched quite a few of your videos and now intend to watch the rest. Thanks again and keep up the good work, Ray

[@FredMiller]

Good info Mr Pete. I modified draw bar type collets to tang type by inserting a piece of all thread at the appropriate length with a stop nut. I a pinch it will allow you to withdraw the collet with the tail stop crank.. Fred

[@toddanonymous5295]

Great tip Mr Pete. Once again your natural teaching ability reigns supreme

[@anthonyedwards4423]

Just found this one Mr. Pete. Great idea! I only have on factory holder for #5 with mt #3 so I have to use a #4 sleeve in my tailstock. It is split on the front end and hold on the flutes of the double ended center drill. Had it for about 22 years an am on my third center drill. Really handy. On another thought, just put that tapered piece front to back in the vise and it will hold just fine. Appreciate your vids. Never had a teacher except the Lord. Been learning since 1973. Ha! Keep on doing it.

[@HarleymanMikey]

I inherited a pliers exactly like yours from my late father, who was a machinist for UPRR. so anything and everything you can share about the tool would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@jma8352]

i want to thank you, your such a good teacher! I just got a 9x3 south bend c model after watching your video the machine has almost no ware on the ways and has all the gears in great shape, i paid 700 bucks and has a 3 jaw plus a 6" 4 jaw plus lots of other goodies i think i got a really good deal. thanks again!!

[@mrpete222]

Yes, that sounds like a good deal

[@alexduke5402]

I got a phonecall from a buddy last year he said I found something at an estate sale I was going to buy. What is it? he said it's a 9x4 South bend lathe with extra heads and a mountain of tooling for $300. They also have a smaller killing machine for 300 and whatever he finds to go with it! Needles to say I added a few tools to the shop! I plugged it in and cleaned it and been running it ever since. I couldn't believe it. This previous owner was a Harley Davidson tinkerer and the basement was slap full of parts.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Very nice job on this project. I look forward to making one very soon.

[@alexduke5402]

I guess I'm 1 of the 2 that will actually be doing this! I've been looking for ways to solid up my center and pilot and this is a fantastic idea! Thank you!

[@mrpete222]

👍

[@brcisna]

MrPete222, Thank You very much for all the very detailed videos you are putting out for everyone to gain good information from. I have owned a 12 x 36 Craftsman/Atlas lathe as a hobby piece in the garage, for around 30 years & after watching some of your practical videos,have a renewed interest in the lathe wanting to try out to teach myself some of these fairly easy to do items you create.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks for watching--glad you are interested again

[@blazeabong]

mr pete i am so glad you take so much time making and thinking these videos up to teach us dummies how to do things and i am letting you know i really appreciate it ty sir..

[@anthonyedwards4423]

“...I believe I’ll drill a center hole.” Liked that!

[@RGSABloke]

Mr. Pete, how I wish you were MY workshop teacher, I hope your students appreciated the fantastic opportunity they were given. I doubt my dental technology students gave me a second thought as a teacher. Many thanks for you efforts producing these videos. Kindest regards. Joe.

[@PaulBohn]

Another great vid Mr. Pete. Annealing is something that every shop guy should know how to do. I didn't know you could buy double ended carbide lathe tool holders. I've always just just cut mine in half and stuck one out each end. My facing end has offset geometry so that I can put a 45 chamfer on the workpiece in reverse without changing the angle of the tool holder in relation to the axis of the spindle, huge time saver.

[@kentuckytrapper780]

The teacher has tought once again. Great info thanks for sharing.

[@mrpete222]

👍

[@johnhili8664]

Hi thanks for your videos as although I have a 52 year machining background I still learn something new!!!! Re annealing the best thing is to heat the object to cherry red and drop it in a bucket of lime powder the object cools down so slowly it will take up to 10 hours!!! Here in Malta lime is abundant as we use it to whitewash our houses:-)) I assure you this system works 100% you can anneal anything even HSS!

[@tommccully2109]

I learn so, so much from your videos. Thank you.

[@mrpete222]

👍

[@russnutter6998]

I am one of the two people lol I enjoyed making this project thank you

[@DirtroadRestorations]

Just thought I’d let you know that I made one of these today out of a old mt2 counter bore. Worked great and a fun learning process. Thanks for the great idea.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍👍

[@dadatschool]

Thank you mrpete222. Always enjoyable to watch your videos. The drivers are still available through machinist sources -- called Morse Taper Drill Drivers and run about $45 for MT3 with a #4 center drill hole -- but it's good to see re-purposing worn out tooling into other uses.

[@Ropetangler]

Thanks Keith for all your efforts in showing tips and techniques, especially for the armchair machinists as you call them, me included. You have provided a great repository of knowledge for the less experienced among us. Just a couple of thoughts worth investigating - many drills are quite soft down the shank, and can be cut without the need of annealing. A quick rub with a file or hacksaw blade as you showed in the video will tell whats what. Also for the taper shanks meant to be held with a draw bolt, a small stud screwed in will act as a tang to help in the removal from the tailstock spindle. I have one such morse arbor which came with a screwed in tang, so I have a choice in using it in the tailstock or with a draw bolt. Finally congratulations on the recent gift from Niagara tools, it is nice to see all you KZbin creators getting such great support from your machining industry. I would think that the cost of the big end mills that Keith Fenner and Adam Booth received would pay my expenses to visit the bash that Stan is putting on in California, with me coming from Australia;-) I would love to be there and my best wishes to all who do get to go to Stan's open house. Rob.

[@1pcfred]

+Bill Lewis why can't you anneal HSS by heating it up? I seem to manage to do that often just grinding them here.

[@psirider]

+Bill Lewis i have turned several mt3 shanks down to straight shanks on hss drills with regular hss tool bits i have never seen one thats hard they are always dead soft right after the flute ends. also quality hss has to be heated to 2300f to heat treat and anneal. i can bet you that little furnace didnt get it that hot,

[@1dnr91]

Enjoyed the annealing just as much as the machining... Thanks

[@stargatefred]

Another great shop built tool. Thank you Bill from Seattle

[@mrpete222]

🤙

[@phooesnax]

Another good one. Thansk as always for all the time you take to do these.

[@erikclausen4780]

Great action Mr. Pete I Love the super cool tips you have from many years in the Trade . Super Action !! Hej from Erik Ontario Canada .

[@esoomreltna]

Sir, Great video and an important aspect that I was reminded of. At first I was thinking that the taper part of the sacrificial drill bit should be cut off in the abrasive (chop) saw. But then you showed that keeping it was important for subsequent operations like drilling and hack sawing. The teaching point is that one should consider all the operations that will be done so that they can be sequenced correctly for best results. Thanks for another wonderful vid. Eric

[@stxrynn]

Beautiful work. I balk at cutting up those old MT drills. I'll probably get a blank and do that instead. Thanks professor!

[@edgeeffect]

I only came here for the annealing but stayed for the whole show any way.

[@dougvanallen2212]

Another great shop tip Mr Pete

[@skeeter50001]

Very nice video, Mr. Pete. I liked the information on the annealing also.

[@turbocobra]

Cool video Mr. Pete, always enjoy watching you work and teach.

[@cdp9633]

Another first rate lesson, Mr Pete. Thanks

[@dennism644]

That was the most informational video I have ever seen thank you DennisCarb

[@mrpete222]

Thank you very much

[@jaywalt1311]

Maybe youve done a video on it, but Id love to see a video on how to align the head and tail stock and other lathe adjustment procedures etc...

[@themotofixery]

i would like to see that as well.

[@chrisholschbach6168]

I just recently watch a video by mrpete222 on the manufacturing of a tail stock alignment checking bar and the use of it to align the tail stock.

[@DonDegidio]

Lyle, You can machine the head of a bolt, the size of the draw bar threads, and just screw it hand tight into the end of the end mill holder. I thought you would have drilled and tapped for the setscrew while you had the drill bit it in the mill.

[@Daledavispratt]

I believe that not only did you invent the center drill holder, but the weldon shank as well :-) Great video, Mr. Pete, as always. Thanks so much!

[@bestfriendhank1424]

I’ll never make one, but this is the second time I’ve watched this video.

[@mrpete222]

👍

[@sterff89]

The annealing part was very interesting to me. Great video!

[@marennah5886]

i sir your videos are use full to working in machine shop peoples.thank you very much

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@billsenko1681]

I use a morse tapered chuck to hold my center drills in my 6" Atlas lathe, but since the chuck sticks out quite far from the tailstock, sometimes the drill will wobble slightly. I need to make one of these to prevent the center drill from sticking out way too much. Thanks for the idea.

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

Great video and great idea to put use to a broken drill bit too.

[@11Aldebaran11]

A superb idea Mr. Peter. Just inform me what key-words should i put on "search" to find those blank MT2 shanks.

[@P61guy61]

This looks like something I could do. Now I don't feel so bad for ruining a large bit a while back. Thanks for posting another great video.

[@JF32304]

Really enjoy your video's. No crap, no political correct junk. To the point machine tips. Love em.

[@jimzivny1554]

Nice project, I can see myself making a few different sizes, thanks for sharing.

[@downunderwest2501]

Lyle, I have the same taper that you have and it is also threaded for a draw bar. I don't use a wedge to get it out of the tailstock. I screwed a short length of rod into the drawbar hole and that makes it just that bit longer in the back end.

[@thomasbatchelor2738]

Great video! I am going to give it a whirl. Thanks again Mr. Pete!

[@kevinwillis9126]

great way to recycle an old drill bit.. Thanks for sharing sir...

[@paulfasolo8552]

OH BOY! The last time I saw one of those was in HS metal shop. That was in 1970!

[@garyc5483]

Another excellent tutorial mrpete. Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK

[@nohands3255]

15 min in. 10k people will watch this video. Lol yet over 200k have watched it now. Thanks for a great video. I'll be one of the 2 people making one.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@MrEh5]

You could make a screw in tang for the end mill holder.

[@N.Cognito]

that was my thought.

[@jeanlifermann5823]

Bob Canadien

[@MrPhatNOB]

I agree, you can buy them for about $6.00 on ebay.

[@RalfyCustoms]

Mr Pete, I've just ordered a couple of old Mt3 Drill bits, so I can make one of these for my Atlas lathe

[@mrpete222]

👍👍👍

[@charliechancontraptions5951]

I looked at the special holder made by cleveland and worked out how to make a simple adaption. I made a 3MT from toughened black Bar (not ideal). I drilled the end with the chosen size of centre drill. Need to keep cleaning swarf out. Then I drilled a hole from each side off centre and drove hardened pins in to engage with the flutes. It works ! Because the centre drill does not have spiral flutes it doesn't try to screw out and in to the workpiece. It bottoms out in to the MT3 drilled recess. The pins stop it rotating. Given it some heavy use and no issues.

[@mrpete222]

Awesome

[@charliechancontraptions5951]

Thanks. 70 this June I'll take it as an earlier birthday present :-)

[@whistles73]

Mr Pete, I am confused. At the beginning of this video, you mention using the MT3 adapter to hold a face mill when milling with a milling attachment on the Atlas/Craftsman lathe. Then at the end of the video you say you made the adapter for your Logan lathe tailstock. Are there any special precautions to make an MT2 adapter for the center drill using it in the Atlas/Craftsman tailstock? Should I follow the same procedure as you did, except, use a MT3 to MT2 adapter in the spindle to hold the part for facing, drilling, and reaming? I really appreciate your insightful comments. Keep up the good work.

[@mrolson4039]

He made it on the Craftsman lathe for the Clausing. The Craftsman headstock taper is the same as the Clausing tailstock taper so it made the Craftsman the perfect holding tool for the job.

[@HmsSulaco]

Ahh the sweet smell of success Lol :). Tubalcain you are the funniest grumpy old bloke on youtube, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. Take care.

[@jimidee100]

What kind of pliers are you using. I have a pair I use for forming wire. Not sure at all if that is what they were meant for,

[@brad855]

Great video! Perfect for a mini lathe where space is an issue

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@kevinhornbuckle]

Very educational. Thank you. The grinding attachment seems to work well.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Interesting video. If you have some slack in the Atlas lathe spindle you can just tighten the tapered bearings and get rid of it. Thanks for the video.

[@rayfalcone6897]

nice job Mr Pete........,enjoyed it very much

[@charlestubaugh6560]

Great video. Love the key chuck holder

[@johnq.public5911]

I use a 2" circular magnets, out of old large speakers, to hold my small tools on the lathe while working.

[@sz72909]

Did you re-harden the taper after it was all done? Thanks for another enlightening presentation.

[@markswoodworkingtips2350]

Didn't know the magnetic thing... very cool!

[@MrJohnnaz]

Certain drill bits do not require annealing, as the tangs can be cut off with just a hacksaw. I have made several of these holders from old drill bits and never annealed any of them. You can take a file to find out were they go from hard to soft. I have two of them that are threaded for small, (1/4" and 3/8") drill chucks from old dead cordless drills.

[@georgebell7103]

Pete, I am not clear why you did not re harden the taper. Can you explain that? Obviously, the original drill was hardened.

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

+George Bell It's not necessary, its cutting days are over and it's just a holder now. The end of the center drill will break long before the taper ever could.

[@barrycass2820]

Hello Tubalcain. I recently bought some carbide bits. I bought about 80 to 120 lbs of used bit. They are in one bucket I was wondering how I should store them. Thank you. I love the videos.

[@mrpete222]

Clean them & put in drawers

[@brucekeeler6690]

Nice video Mr. Pete! I take it it’s not necessary to re-heat treat that taper! Thank you

[@gabrielhernandez343]

great video Mr Pete. thanks

[@commando340]

great video. i use an allen head cap screw in the end of the piece which needs a tang. this works good.

[@vlvtopcat]

Awesome Tip Sir Thank you.I'm going to make a set for the machines I use at work.#2,#3,#4 and a possible one for the # 5 Morse taper for the lathes and drill presses and even LG horz mill.Thanks

[@lacaver64]

hello Mr Pete y like very much your vídeos and an greeting here from spain

[@andyc8454]

Thank you for making this video!

[@johnjohn-ed9qt]

Height adjustment for the DuMore mount might be done with either a small machinist jack or adjustable parallel. Place under the holder and on the slide top face, or on top of the toolpost to catch the toolholder adjusting screw. The former might be bit more stable by giving solid bearing, the latter allows using the toolholder nut for the adjustment as you work. I have not done this with a grinder, but have done it for a couple odd jobs over the years when finding TDC on a part.

[@ext700]

I tried to anneal my drill in the microwave . Bad things happened and it never got to that cherry red color.

[@3347861]

Coffee just went through my nose on that one....

[@mrayco]

ext700 hhhha are you kidding man (microwave)

[@daviddaddy]

you got to wrap in Aluminium Foil first!

[@effyou128]

Funny part is -If you found a way to suspend it and not ground out it Prob would work! People don't realize it only sparks if its touching! Like Chinese food! the metal wire doesn't spark because its not grounded out!

[@pmcgee003]

@@effyou128 Nothing in a microwave is grounding - it sits on a glass turntable. I wouldn't try leaving your spoon in your coffee cup in there ...

[@ClownWhisper]

I found one of these in my tool chest that I did not know that I had! it is very handy

[@redrockplumber5124]

I laughed out loud, I'm one of those thousands that armchair this whole operation.

[@KaleidoscopesToYou]

I come from a hot glass background where we anneal glass I enjoyed learning about softening metal via the annealing and heating to a cherry red then cooling slowly annealing softening the hardened steel

[@mrpete222]

Thanks. I have been in our local glass bottle plant many times. My neighbor was a Lear tender. I have watched the annealing

[@mrfrog3350]

Cool stuff Mr.Pete.

[@davew368]

Great video as usual...and I have to say I feel the same way about Starbucks. It must be an acquired taste and I can't afford the cost of acquiring it :).

[@MaturePatriot]

You could make a tang to screw into the drawbar hole. We would bury our tool steel in lime to let it cool over a couple of days. The center hole you drilled with the finished product looked very concentric while the lathe was running. Great series.

[@doright6461]

Awesome handy tool Mr Pete. Often I'll just scratch something with a file to see if HSS will cut something. Just an idea used it for 35 years. Files are cheaper than endmills lol.

[@mrpete222]

Yes, it was the perfect method to quickly determine the hardness

[@johncrea9395]

Mr. Pete Since the tool is hard to hold once the flutes are cut off, it would make sense to drill and tap for the setscrew at the same time you milled the flat John

[@mrpete222]

Yes I suppose. There are many ways of doing every job

[@frankwolfe1524]

Hello Mr. Pete222, Enjoyed your video as usual...Great stuff... One of the first things I made when I got my 7X14 micro lathe was about 6 # 2 Morse taper blanks... Then the very fist one became my #4 center drill in the same manner as you just shown on this video... What I would really like to make would be an offset center on a #2 Morse taper so as I can make tapers more easily than I normally do... I have seen such a device in an old Popular Mechanics magazine... Got to find it again and start building... You take care , enjyting all your fanatastic tool tips videos...Thank you,Frank

[@TheGuitar1962]

Arm chair machinist approved. Thanks.

[@TaeKwonJoe98]

Just add a set screw into the draw bar hole so it will come out of your tail stock!

[@petek210]

Mr.Pete, do you think that if you held the drilling toolbits in a collet in the headstock and held the work in the tailstock you might have shaved .001 off your final run-out?

[@ExtantFrodo2]

+Poncho likes bacon Because it's the spinal bearings that have slop, it's not likely to make a difference.

[@flyingjeep911]

Damn it, I am both the arm chair machinist and one of the two people that will make this. When I have the machines, I will make one.

[@mrpete222]

Awesome👍👍

[@shexdensmore]

hey, as far as the Asbestos liner, as long as it's not disturbed, it's fine. but what you might want to do is put a binding agent on it or a layer of castable refractory cement over it or both. you wouldn't have to put much refractory cement on it. just enough to cover.

[@jimmymyers7683]

Another great video. As always.

[@Patroand]

That would be great if you show us how to turn a Mt3 for and with the Clausing lathe. Thanks for sacrificing that big drill to show us that trick!. Regards

[@shadowdog500]

Looks like a neat project! I may make one. Thanks, Chris