Shop Update & Blower Motor Connector Repair

Jump to 3:05 if you just want to see the connector replacement
Just a brief shop update, as life's been busy for our family in the last couple months. As well, we get to a small repair on our pickup truck that has needed to be done for a while now. The heater-A/C blower motor connector had gotten some corrosion in it and the higher resistance created enough heat to melt the connector, causing intermittent connection. The warm weather lately raised the priority of this repair so we had A/C in the truck again. Hopefully it can be helpful to someone.
Thanks for watching and joining me in the shop!

[@supergirljade5495]

Thank you for showing the part number, the aftermarket looks slightly different from the original. I don't think I would have found it without this video. Aftermarket is coming up PTA1285 for anyone looking.

[@CraigConnors]

If you love working on vehicles, just like machining, this stuff never gets old to watch. I think there would be a lot of individuals who would find this helpful the way you explain the steps. I myself work on all makes and models for a used car dealership and have repaired many of these. Some though were in such bad shape that it burnt out the heater control module, one sign was if the ac light never turned off even when the buttons were pressed. I have had two rotator cuff surgeries in the past year and a half and can no longer work as a mechanic, so I am looking for other things to do, but it is still fun to watch and learn different methods of repair.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

I enjoy building and fixing things, just like most of us who gravitated toward working in technical/trade fields, and while I don't claim to be an expert on a lot of stuff I like to share what I've learned over the years (often the hard way) and learn new things all the time. Kind of makes me miss being a high school shop teacher at times. Been occasionally accused of talking too much, but I figure that the fast forward button is there for a reason. Those who actually take an interest will listen and think critically about what I say - if there is legitimate room for improvement I will certainly take advice from those who are wiser than me. Sorry to hear about your injuries and surgeries, that's a hard one to deal with when your passion is fixing stuff. Hopefully the stuff here stays interesting for you as time goes on, I will just keep on taking videos of the stuff that happens here. Thanks for coming by!

[@Firebird_71]

I have been searching for a solution for ages! and finally found it today! Thank you so much!

[@EverettsWorkshop]

I'm glad you could find the video useful, just make sure you check the blower motor itself with test leads to a good power and good ground, and also check the blower motor resistor and connector as they can also be common failure points.

[@Firebird_71]

@@EverettsWorkshop I most definately will. Thank you again for this video and everything else that I need to do. You gave me a huge relief with this video 👍🏼

[@jimmunhall]

Thank you Sir, this video was very helpful to me. I will be needing to replace my pigtail to the resistor on my 2012 Ford Fusion, this has helped me 👍🏼

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks for saying hello, glad it was of some use for you - you'll have a bit more room to work, I was squished around the camera and light in order to get under the dash with the tools. I'm not happy with slightly overheating the solder joint but it still works, it just wasn't as pretty as it could have been.

[@jimmunhall]

We’re men, we make things work, not look pretty 😂🤷🏻‍♂️👍🏼

[@ajm9238]

Great video! Thanks! Garage wanted $300 to change plug and resister. Im doing this now myself. I just changed resister now going to change melted plug. Dont forget some dielectric/terminal grease on plugs/terminals. Mine were corroded badly. Part of my problem.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thank you, I was hoping it would be of use for somebody. I realize my soldering technique was a little sloppy but most people get the gist of what I was trying to get across. Yes, corrosion will create the voltage drop that will build up heat and burn the connector. This sort of thing is plenty feasible for anyone to do at home and save some money.

[@ChrisB257]

Good to see you back - never worry about apologizing for delay with videos - life has so much to do things have to take priority, not to mention weather factors some time! Useful to see your approach to dealing with the problem... haha - forgetting shrink wrap first - done that! Splice clips do a good job if a bit fiddly. You did good managing to video and still do the job! Almost surprised that motor draws as much current as it appears to.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks! Yes, blower motors pull a fair amount of current for sure. Been lurking on others' channels for the last while, even if less was posted here for a bit, was glad to see you were back at it again with the tail stock offset.

[@andrewtollison753]

This has helped alot. Gonna be replacing the connector today on my wifes pontiac G5

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Glad it could be of help! With not working around a camera and lights, you'll have more space to play.

[@ranaejosemaria5997]

Much appreciated ! Not a big repair but for a first timer this helps a lot thanks again ! Same exact issue with my connector

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks for writing, glad it could be of help!

[@josh777purdie]

I really enjoyed this tutorial! Thank you for sharing!

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks Joshua, glad it could be of use for you!

[@codycastro8083]

thank you soo much for this video, this help me alot. an saved me alot of money that i didnt have trying to raise a family at the same time. AGAIN THANK YOU SOOO MUCH SIR.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks for coming by and for your support, I appreciate you saying hello. Glad it could be of use to you!

[@codycastro8083]

@@EverettsWorkshop yes sir thank you, you did not waste your time,

[@hilltopmachineworks2131]

Glad your back.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@jrjohnson9723]

Thank you. This video was insightful and what I needed to know. Appreciate your time because wiring is tedious. And for all the trollers, read between the lines. (Holding three fingers up) 🤣

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Lol, thanks for the kind words. For what it's worth, trolls don't bother me. It's still traffic on my channel, one way or another, and sometimes it's fun to play with them 😁

[@TawnjaWynn]

Great video Everett!!

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thank you!

[@aq2803]

OMG it helped tremendously!! Thanks bud!!! 👍

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Glad it could be of use to you!

[@RockingJOffroad]

Lookin good! If Momma’s not happy then nobody is going to be happy!

[@paulysci925]

thank you this is exactly what i needed

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Hey, glad it could be of use! Thanks for stopping by!

[@edbutzwiggle4227]

Awesome!! thanks for the share

[@pierresgarage2687]

From "To do" to "HONNEY DO" lol The butane torch soldering is more my method for emergency than my regular method, you can get excellent soldering iron that will provide enough heat, but, those are a little costly, don't worry I'm not going to get you for using my desperate cases method, mostly in resolving a "HONNEY DO" emergency job... Nice to see you're coming back to make new projects...

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks, it's good to be back tinkering in the garage again. Family stuff has to come first for all of us though. Sometimes family first means a tinkering job though, like when it migrates to the "honey do" list, lol

[@weekendhomeprojects]

Saw you over on Cliff's Shed. Great channel - sub'ing.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks! Yeah, I have a serious soft spot and also great respect for Cliff. Going to be a lot of work for him but at least he's picked up and moving forward. Hopefully his insurance company doesn't hose him over.

[@P.REmpress]

Amazing video 😊 helped alot

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks, I was a bit sloppy in my soldering/shrink tube style but at least it works properly again lol

[@sirkneegames7298]

Thank you so much!

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@jacquelinebishop8465]

No wonder if you've had a bug it's been a couple of month since you've "put anything up" . Hope you've sorted that issue out sir and thanks for the video 📹

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks Jacqueline, this video had come out a while ago, but lately it's been family and work that have kept me busy. Got footage for videos but just need to edit it and get it posted. Hopefully soon!

[@chrisfruchtnicht3439]

thanks man ill be looking for more videos to help me fix all the stuff i break haha

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Well Chris, this was a less professional repair than I prefer to do, as I usually prefer to use a heat gun but didn't have one readily available.

[@jimdavis4342]

Never knew what those were for. Next time I may actually try to use them. LOL

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Lol, yeah, the guys in engineering were pretty adamant we needed them

[@pauldevey8628]

Life is busy! No worries.

[@AlbertElizondo]

Great video. I replaced both the resistor and plug, its now working great however I am conserned that the wires comming from the blower get extremely hot. Is this normal or is the motor going bad?

[@EverettsWorkshop]

If the wires next to the motor are hot I would check the connector to the motor for corrosion and/or burnt terminals. This would create a voltage drop and heat. You might need to do the motor connector as well, and possibly the motor itself if the terminals can't be cleaned.

[@user-rx2xf3kc9x]

Very Helpful for me, but the torch i might not be able to do, I'm not allowed to use fire lol. thank you.

[@michaelschweibinz2160]

Instead of sodder, making a potential mess on the floor, and messing up any insulation when it comes to wiring, they do have heat shrink connectors that would be quicker and alot cleaner!

[@EverettsWorkshop]

That is very true - I use them at work, they are a viable option for splicing. I didn't have any on hand at the time and although I admit my technique was a little sloppy I just wanted a good connection with no voltage drop so I soldered the pigtails on. You are quite right though, those heat shrink butt connectors are a good option too!

[@1omarrr]

I broke off the clips on the pigtail to the rissitor . Is there anyway to keep it in place and keep hoocked.thank you.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Well, the best way to keep them latched is by the clips, but if the clip is broken then one slightly unorthodox way of retaining a connector is to use a very small drop of super glue on a flat part of the connector near the outside lip. That way, should it need to come apart again later, you can slide a razor knife in and separate the socket from the pigtail plug. I've never done this myself but have seen fellow technicians do it in a pinch and it does work if you're careful. Thanks for watching!

[@jrjohnson9723]

Any 2002 dodge Durango tips that you have would be helpful for future videos. Thank you

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Well, your vintage of Durango would not be too far off my old pickup that I had, so a lot of it still applies. Just maybe do a better job than I did in the soldering, I was a bit sloppy 😁

[@noelhenderson700]

I might have been tempted to stagger the splices out a bit. I realize with the shrink wrap the joints were isolated but sometimes the plastic can rub through. Also, if you're building a harness the diameter of the finished product is a bit smaller.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

I agree, it is good style to stagger splices, and it's what I do when numerous splices are to be done (a couple Dodge diesel emission harness recalls come to mind). In this spot I wasn't as worried as there was lots of space for the wiring, but you do have a very valid point . Thanks for coming by!

[@edwinrivera3231]

I have the same problem! Wondering how you pull tha connector out!

[@EverettsWorkshop]

There is a little tab on the side of the connector to release it from the motor. If it won't come out at all it may have gotten hot enough to melt into the socket, in which case you'll need to replace the motor as well as the connector.

[@corareyes9638]

I have a similar situation with the exception of my problem involves a 1994 toyota pickup truck. The truck connector is fried because of a lose wire and there is no replacement part..The dealership said i would have to buy a whole new wiring harness... any suggestion on how to re engineer the connector or switch... i have no idea

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Hi Cora, which connector is fried? The one at the blower motor itself, the blower motor resistor connector, or the one at the HVAC control head? I was looking at pictures of the various things available at RockAuto.com and it looks like the resistor, replacement resistor pigtail connector, and blower motor are available commercially. If the connector to the motor itself is fried then as it looks like the motor itself uses spade terminals in its integral connector you could use some heavy-duty spade generic spade terminals and even solder them to the harness wires to minimize voltage drop. If it's at the control head then, well, I haven't had one of those out so don't know what they look like. If it destroyed the terminals on the blower motor switch you'll need to get a new one of those (or one from a wrecker) and put something together on the back side of it using spade terminals if possible.

[@wakeboardfan0]

Is soldering the cables together okay? Or should crimping be preferred? I have the gear + experience to solder but none of the crimping supplies. Thanks for your videos!

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Hi Justin, soldering is fine as long as you get a good joint and use heat shrink insulation. I admit to having done a bit of a sloppy job on my pickup, scorched the insulation a bit, but it works fine.

[@johnbryan5775]

Hello, where can I find the male replacement clip you used in this video? I believe my setup is the exact same as yours. Appreciate any help.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

I was still working at a Chrysler dealer at the time, so I bought the connector at work - it's a 68040446AA for my truck. You could probably get them on Amazon as well if that would be easier or cheaper than your local Mopar joint.

[@Nathaneldridge895]

Mine melted how to fix

[@AustinK333]

I'm having the hardest time locating that part, my wiring harness appears to be the same one you have. Can you please link were you got this harness from? Thank you in advance.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Hi Austin, if you have a Dodge pickup of around the same vintage as mine, the Mopar original part number is 68040446AA. I bought it from the parts department of the Dodge dealer I worked at, but I'm not sure where you live. If you put the part number into your search engine you should come up with a few options (I found Rock Auto, Amazon, etc. had them) otherwise you can go to your local dealer with that part number. Thanks for coming by!

[@Dnariobeats1289]

Findpigtails.com

[@alyssacallahan626]

Do you know where I could find a Ford Fusion 2010 blower motor connector? Much like your video I have the same issue with my Ford and a mechanic tried saying it was both the resistor and the motor but I noticed it’s just the connecter. Any tips on best places to buy one?

[@EverettsWorkshop]

If it truly is just the connector, you can get them online. Just do a search, from what I can tell from the part catalog a Motorcraft WPT1188 is what your car uses on the blower motor. There are times, however, that the resistor and motor both go at the same time too, so make sure you double check them too.

[@MrSabram07]

Solder with a torch , interesting

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Well, lol, I admit the style was a little sloppy on this one. But yes, with a small flame you can solder wires with a torch. Depending on the scenario it is done a lot, especially with larger gauge wires and splice clips so you can get enough heat for the solder itself to flow.

[@shives1866]

my question is do you need that torch or a soldering iron? or is that just extra protection? wouldn't the crimp and some electrical tape work just as well?

[@EverettsWorkshop]

It would be best to use a good soldering iron but I didn't have one available at the time - as for the crimp, Chrysler specifies splices to be done with crimps and soldering, covered by shrink tube. I did kind of a sloppy job with the soldering, to be honest, I've done better ones. The thing is that with the current that a blower motor draws, you want the least amount of voltage drop as possible and this kind of splice allows that.

[@williamwilliams4559]

i look for the crimps and pliers were did you get them

[@EverettsWorkshop]

These styles of wire strippers and crimpers can be gotten from pretty much any Matco or MAC tools dealer, but I'm sure that a similar set can be even ordered from Amazon as long as you get a good name brand. I'm pretty sure both of mine came off the Matco truck but it's been a while.

[@bellemae6698]

Hey bro looking for a 2005 Chrysler 300 blow motor connector how did u find this one ?! Help please?!

[@EverettsWorkshop]

At the time I was working at a Dodge dealer so I looked it up in parts and ordered it. For yours, I did a quick check at some aftermarket sites and it looks like p/n 68040446AA should be the number but you would be best to verify that by calling your local dealer with your VIN and they would look it up in StarParts. Thanks for coming by!

[@Gabriel.4190]

I really need to replace my melted connector. Find the time to do it is another thing. My blower motor works if you Bang on it a couple times😂😂

[@PickelJuice659]

I didn't know my connector, was melted until it ruined/broke my blower motor ! Hoped you changed it before a 300$ repair Bill 🤥

[@junglebrother8923]

I'm having the same problem.. mine is melted as well

[@mstar8718]

So, if our wiring harness comes with the butt splices... are you saying not to use them?

[@EverettsWorkshop]

It depends - some GM replacement connectors for example come with butt splices that you heat to get them to seal. If they come with that style then by all means use them as the engineers would have considered them acceptable. I still prefer to solder and heat shrink but then I'm a bit old school :)

[@anitahollis9579]

I e never done any soldering. Is there any other way?

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Honestly I did a bit of a sloppy job on this one, should have controlled soldering heat better or used a soldering iron. There are crimp butt connectors with sealant that we used when I worked for GM, but they need to be crimped correctly and then warmed with a heat gun (or carefully with a micro torch) to seal the connection. If you look up self sealing crimp butt connectors you'll see what I mean. Thanks for popping by!

[@terrancelawson2818]

Is the torching mandatory. I'm trying to do this on my own. . . ?? Or should I just get a professional?

[@EverettsWorkshop]

The little torch was just a heat source to shrink the shrink tube on to the wires. I should have used a heat gun but didn't have one at the time. If you're careful a cigarette lighter works for shrinking shrink tubes too.

[@adamwesley9569]

Hey bud I have A 2013 crv heat stopped as it did work intermittently lol replaced the resistor n motor but nothing. Could it be the connector itself because when I wiggle certain spots it'll kick on and is it hard lol

[@adamwesley9569]

Any advice needed

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Ok, if you're wiggling wires with crispy insulation and it cuts in and out you definitely have a bad connection. Check the female terminals of the connectors on the blower motor and the resistor as those are the two most likely to give you grief. If you see discoloration or melting on them, replace them.

[@reygonzalez9795]

Whats the part # need that done to my ac plug...thats what I need is the connector mine melted blower is fine? 03 Dodge ram 1500

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Hi Rey, this connector and part number was just for the connector to the blower motor fan in my old '03 Dodge pickup. I'm not sure which connector you are looking for in particular and also not sure of what kind of vehicle you own. Have you checked in with a decent auto parts store close to you, or given the dealer a call to get the part number from them?

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Hi again Rey, the blower motor connector that my truck needed was a Mopar 68040446AA. Yours is the same year and the 1500/2500/3500 series all used the same interior and mostly the same HVAC components inside the cab so it should be the same number for your blower motor connector.

[@brendacook2018]

Will this same method work on an 07 cobalt?

[@EverettsWorkshop]

It is a pretty standard procedure for replacement of a pigtail-style repair connector. I will admit I was a bit sloppy in the soldering, but if you use a soldering iron or smaller micro-torch you could do the same procedure to replace the connector. Just make sure that the motor terminals are still good and clean, and that the motor itself still works ok or else you'll be replacing the connector again.

[@Dnariobeats1289]

My connector to my 2006 Infiniti m35 is not online anywhere I have no idea how to get one !!

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Hi Dnario, you mentioned your car so out of curiosity I started looking up Infinitis. Like you, I could not find anything for the connector to the blower motor itself, and looking at pictures of replacement motor units they look like they are an oddball design for sure. Even RockAuto, where I often go if in a pinch, didn't have one. I guess going to a wrecking yard might have to be in order, otherwise if you could maybe fabricate something up with good-quality spade connectors and some non-acidic adhesive to glue them to the terminals on the motor? Seems kind of dumb that replacement connectors are not available.

[@Dnariobeats1289]

@@EverettsWorkshop thanks brother yeah I went to “Findpigtails.com” they had the exact piece it’s getting cold out wouldn’t want to not have heat

[@heddaleeming5348]

If you have enough wire after you cut off the connector to reach the motor why add the extra pieces and not just put the connector straight on the original wires?

[@EverettsWorkshop]

It's a fair enough question, and the simple answer is that the kit does not have the terminals separate from the wires but already crimped on to the pigtail wires. If I could get the female terminals separately I would have no problem crimping them right on the harness wires. Thanks for coming by the channel!

[@charliebrown2813]

That cable gets super hott I wonder if it’s dangerous 🧐

[@EverettsWorkshop]

In my case I think a loose terminal in the connector created a voltage drop, which made heat and a worse connection. Really there would only be heat in a spot with higher resistance so if you have a hot connector it's worth dealing with. I've also seen ignition switches on these trucks with burnt terminals because the blower motor gets a switched power feed from the ignition.

[@frankdavis2522]

Did you disconnect the Battery.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Lol, no, but you're right, it is generally safest if one does disconnect it when doing electrical work on a vehicle. On these ones, the power is fed through an ignition feed, so without the key on there will be no power to the 12v feed at the motor.

[@frankdavis2522]

@@EverettsWorkshop thanks, I'm doing one when the part gets in. Yea, I've always disconnected the battery. Nice to know some applications don't require it.

[@rebeccab3587]

Is there anybody that could give me a picture of The resistor and the pigtail wires? I started changing mine out and I think I messed up the wiring. Thank you in advance

[@EverettsWorkshop]

What kind of vehicle? If it's a 2003-2005 Dodge pickup I can get a picture. If it is, email me and I'll have a look

[@rebeccab3587]

@@EverettsWorkshop it is a 2010 Mercury Milan

[@rebeccab3587]

I messed up the AC connector has two wires gray and yellow, I'm trying to figure out if it should go to the first or second wire in the harness that connects to the resistor.

[@rebeccab3587]

@@EverettsWorkshop I'm trying to send a picture but I have no clue how. I'm so sorry.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

@@rebeccab3587 Hello again Rebecca, I'm sorry but I don't own any Ford products and don't have any of their service information here. Have you considered getting either a Haynes service manual or doing the Alldata Personal Subscription for your car? It's 30 bucks a year for one vehicle and you can get connector pinouts, wiring diagrams, service procedures, etc. Would be worth while looking into. www.alldatadiy.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4f35BRDBARIsAPePBHwuvdIW2OUn2kVf__r-0qkzlYMu_SKITit5NUiaXCmz6AFE4K-ZAqkaAgtFEALw_wcB

[@DavidSanchez-el4bg]

I changed wires but it keeps melting 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@EverettsWorkshop]

If they keep failing you may need to replace your blower motor and resistor as well - if there's a bad connection in one of them it can create an unwanted voltage drop and create a hot spot in the harness. I was able to clean the terminals in my blower but yours might be too far gone for that.

[@djkasdjkasdjdjdj]

do you sell one for a 2004 Volvo S60?

[@EverettsWorkshop]

I'm sorry but I don't sell parts - I was just showing how I replaced this connector on my old Dodge. Even then, I know I could have used better style in doing it, but it is what it is, lol!

[@mflynn45]

2005 Towne & Country. Please! Tell me....i don't have to sodder!!! Lol was never told I would need to and that just crimping everything together would suffice....i don't have a torch lol or whatever and have already spent more money on this than the local mechanic would charge...

[@EverettsWorkshop]

If you use a good quality crimp splice and crimping tool it will work fine, I just prefer to solder.

[@pauldevey8628]

What part of Canada are you in?

[@EverettsWorkshop]

We live just West of Edmonton, Alberta. Are you in Canada as well?

[@pauldevey8628]

Just west of Ottawa.

[@jonathanjohnson478]

What was the part number for that kit? I need the same one.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

It's a Mopar 68040446AA, but looks like it also crosses over to a Standard Motor Products S2041. Just make sure that the terminals on the motor are nice and clean, whether you use a trimmed emery board (normally used for filing finger nails) or a small diamond file is up to you. Just make sure they're clean and free of corrosion.

[@296jacqi]

My clip came with the wires crossed and I have to reverse them, because my fan is blowing backwards. People keep telling me to just “push back the little (invisible) tab inside and push the wires out - no need to cut and splice.” Sounds simple. It’s isn’t. I’ll tear the dang thing apart trying to get those wires out without all the special electrical tools. “Just use a paper clip or tiny screwdriver,” they say. I did. And I’m scraping the plastic and nearly bending the metal of the connector. I’m so frustrated I could scream. I successfully installed the rest of everything and the new resistor works. But this dumb, stupid little clip. 😡 😤

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Weird that it's backwards, but it doesn't overly surprise me (I've seen a lot of new parts come wrongly assembled). If you've never disassembled an automotive electrical connector then I could see how it would be tricky - we all have different areas of experience and I certainly don't look down on you for having trouble getting it apart. You have experience and knowledge in parts of life that I don't. Once you do a few connectors you can see the pattern in how to disassemble them, but that comes in time. Hope the connector repair works out for you, glad the rest of the job sounds like it went well.

[@samaelmartinus3273]

Thanks for the video but......... You spend way too much time worried about what others are gunna say.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Lol, fair enough, I sometimes ramble about my thoughts as the camera rolls. This was also earlier in my YouTubing, so I was more worried about what others would say. I'm less worried about that stuff now 😁

[@samaelmartinus3273]

@@EverettsWorkshop no biggie great content though. Good job

[@isabellapinedo6435]

Sir you talk too much about not what I came to the video for … took a lot of skipping to get to what I needed. Helpful But long.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Well, thank you for coming by, I'm sorry if it felt a bit long for you if you were mostly interested in the connector repair but I had made the video as a shop update as well, as I had been absent (no uploads) for a while and was also checking in with the people who normally subscribe. Glad you could find some use in it though!

[@peterdodd8675]

Talks to much about everything but the subject.

[@hunterfairchild4188]

You talk about bs for to long

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Well, part of what I do is try to visit with the people who actually want to come hang out in my shop with me. I try to balance updates with what's happening here and building/repairing stuff, so I try to keep the intros reasonably short. I'm sorry if you feel that the intros are too long, I really don't take offense if people wish to fast forward as they wish. Thanks for coming by, hope there still is stuff on the channel that you would find more interesting!