Blower Motor Resistor Wire Splice & Amperage Draw Test

Part Installed: amzn.to/2wvFnnz
In this video we replace the HVAC blower motor resistor. This vehicle came in with the blower motor running at high speed even with the engine and key off and key out of the ignition. This is very common when the resistor/module shorts out internally. We also perform an amperage draw test of the blower motor. This is the latest design and requires splicing on early models. This fits 2002-2009 Tahoe Yukon Hummer H2 Suburban Silverado Sierra Trailblazer Envoy Rainier Olds Bravada Saab 9-7x with ATC Automatic Temp Control (Replaces 15-80655, 19329838)

[@noles353]

Video was very helpful, I wasn't looking forward to tackling this until I watched your video. Step by step as it is. Thanks

[@jurekogorek6715]

8:03 new motor settles at 10amps. 6:03 old motor was settling in at 11.5 amps. Old motor was still working and not worn.

[@brendanhehir3049]

Awesome video. Thanks so much!

[@santa_claus-north_pole]

Quick correction: failure of the resistor means it resolves to _closed_ (full contact), not "open' (no contact). My brother told me to write this. He is a mechanic.

[@APDTY]

That is correct and why the blower stays on. If we said open, than we apologzie.

[@santa_claus-north_pole]

@@APDTY No worries at all - I'll tell my brother, and great video, 🙂

[@gustavososa2869]

Good job my friend. Tank you for sheer

[@Zigzagentertainment]

My cars blower fan wire heating n fuse blown... Prblm?

[@newyork819]

Would a defective motor cause the resister to burn out and melt the speed control switch?

[@juliusipock2979]

I have a question I have a 03 Chevy avalanche I replaced the blower motor and the blower motor resistor 3 months ago the blower motor completely quit yesterday I put on a new blower motor resistor this morning the blower still wouldn't work so I pulled the blower motor out and bought a new one it wont work either there are 2 wires coming out of the blower motor resistor red and black that plug in to the blower motor the red wire has power at settings 1-4 and the black wire has a little power at setting 5 no power on red at setting 5 What could be my problem I took a wire and clipped it on th post where the black wire would go on the motor Hooked it to a bolt under the hood and took a wire connected it to the positive on the battery and touched the end on the post that the red wire would go on the blower motor and nothing I did it to the old motor and the new motor neither one would spin are both motors bad or is something else wrong

[@steveyost2155]

Very helpful. Am I wrong or not? According to the tab angles, it was put in backwards. If rotated 180°, it might have fit better. But the seal is rectangular so it fit perfectly either way. Someone may have pointed it out already. Nobody reads all the comments.

[@kamaljitsinghghandial3831]

hi I am in uk can you help me were can I find resistor

[@2Jeezuzisreal]

I have the exact same vehicle I cannot figure out why my fan quit working and if I wiggle the wires it used to go on and stay on for quite a while and now I can't get it to hardly do anything. It's definitely a problem right in the 3 wire plug. I don't see how I could possibly be a resistor problem.

[@Astroboy956]

The new resistor for my 2003 Trailblazer LT smells like it is burning. My blowerotor is pulling 22amps, could that be the cause?

[@90pontiac]

Helpful video. (What multi meter do you use?) I have about the same problem on 01 Chevrolet Malibu. Hvac not working. All fuse and relays check ok. Turn on controls, no fan speeds, no defrosting or ac when buttons are pressed..replaced resistor still nonething. Test#1: I took a battery from my jeep and with 2 wires woth.20 amp fuse tapped into the blower motor purple and black wires every thing works. But my wires coming from my battery got hot.. would it be possible i may have a ground issue? Note before my battery test. Theres A 20 amp fuse for hvac located in passenger side dash fuse box, with test light key on tap top tabs on fuse shows ground on both sides, fuse not blown. Test#2: i take that fuse out and supply jumper power with 25 amp circuit breaker into that location, the blower fan comes on, in all speeds but the controler button are still non functional.. Test:3 -i took a fused wire from the cars battery taped it onto the blower motor purple wire turn car on the blower fan came on BUT on speed #2 &4 the vehicle auto headlights turn on and fuel & temp gauges were working (they haven't worked when got the car.) Could this have something to do with reversing power into the cars power supply and computer modules?

[@jasonribunal9652]

So ☕

[@APDTY]

The original blower motor resistor on Hummer H2 and other models has been discontinued. This is the new version which fits almost all GM trucks from 2002-2009. This is for models with automatic temperature control (ATC). Yes you will have to splice in the new module and yes you should either verify the blower motor amperage draw or just replace it as a worn blower motor is many times the actual root cause of your blower resistor failure. Here is both parts available at Amazon: New Design Resistor: amzn.to/2wvCEuo New Blower Motor (Verify your model before purchasing): 02-06 Escalade, Tahoe or Yukon: amzn.to/2xjD4S5 02-09 Trailblazer Envoy Rainier Saab 9-7x:amzn.to/2ww5XwP First Design Trailblazer Envoy: amzn.to/2gcRU97

[@derrickgarcia303]

The first amperage draw is called LRA or inrush current.

[@tradingtechautomation693]

is it safe for it draw over 20 Amps continuously?!! will the motor not burn?! coz 20 amps is a lot man, I don't even think those wires could power it for long, they might melt at some pont.

[@2kmarie2]

Awesome video. I wish I would've watched it BEFORE my repair. So, what happens if I cut the wires without removing the fuse first? What did I mess up?

[@brianodom797]

it would blow the fuse

[@2kmarie2]

Thank you!

[@2kmarie2]

Could it mess up the relay?

[@APDTY]

Cutting the wires without removing the fuse or battery voltage, can allow the wires to short together which would blow the fuse, this is why you always want to disconnect power on the system you are working on or disconnect the battery. If you disconnect the battery, you can lose important data, be sure to pull any stored trouble codes as you might erase data necessary to diagnose other problems in the vehicle. Pulling the fuse allows you to isolate the system you are working on while leaving power to the other systems.

[@fishgoblub9640]

@@brianodom797 do you know what fuse

[@Arreis_Nos1o]

Which fuse do I need to remove?

[@gohamification]

40v blower fuse

[@zx8401ztv]

Hmm it sounds like that old module didn't have a good enough startup circuit. Hope the new one is better.

[@APDTY]

Yeah the old blower motor put too much of a load on the old blower resistor and that is one of the main causes of these burning out or shorting out which can cause the blower to stay on high at all times, even with the ignition off.

[@fishgoblub9640]

I shorted the cables any thing i can do

[@jasonstrout4502]

Check the fuse under the hood and on driver's side dash

[@The_Matrix_I_Am]

what components do I need to run a blower motor outside of a car?

[@lizard944]

Huge testicles, a trustworthy assistant with good hearing, 911 on your speed-dial, and a tourniquet just in case. lol

[@mikegreene2157]

A positive and a negative wire and a battery I test them off my car battery with a inline fuse on the positive to keep it at 30 amps on most cars

[@louispeters2105]

@@lizard944 brilliant!!!!! Good answer

[@dntlss]

@@lizard944 that plastic shielded hamster cage might take your arm off if your not careful,ha ha ha

[@paulfoldes3873]

why dont you use clamp ampro meter ??????

[@hp15132]

I tried to check my blower with a clamp meter but the reading was 0 I usually use the clamp meter at home to check the AC appliances I don't know if it should work the same for DC

[@Veikra]

flip the module 180degree, you put it backward

[@tomclose6643]

plus didnt use foam spacer

[@HOAFCHARTERS]

......I know the new module works ok......but do you realize you installed it backwards......if you look at the 14:05 mark in video you are putting screw in the right side....the screw tab is offset which should be to the left. Should have just rotated it 180* and the tabs wouldn't have bent up as you screwed the screws in.....lol

[@Zigzagentertainment]

Hloo

[@ppena20]

I have a 2004 gmc Yukon XL and I already replace the Blower Motor Resister 5 times, I also replace the blower motor and the climate control unit brand new. I don't understand why the Blower resister keep burning out. They only last me around two to six months, I wonder what else it is causing the resister to go out.

[@APDTY]

Pedro Pena it is best if the new blower motor and resistor are replaced at the same time, you can do an amperage draw test on the blower motor and jump the blower motor without the resistor to see how many amps it is pulling, of running amps is over 10, it may need replacing

[@earlewaters1917]

To bad he doesn’t show the meter setting for first timers

[@ricktaylor3748]

Getting the heater motor tabs to line up, so you can twist it is a FUCKING BITCH!!!

[@nicholasthomas9644]

7uu9

[@unexpectedpigeon6654]

No reason at all to change the blower motor. You sold a good b.s. reason to do so. But not necessary. First one peak was at 20A dropped to 15 to 10, second was about 18A peak down to 13 to 10. NOT NECESSART AT ALL.

[@mobilemechmantim773]

Actually, he is being thorough. This is a pattern failure in these trucks. Knowing this, if he did not replace the blower motor and the resistor shorted again, he would be expected to warranty the repair. Not to mention the inconvenience to the customer and the damage to his reputation. Customers may grumble over the cost of a repair, but it is soon forgotten as long as the repair is done right. However, if they have to come back for the same issue, they won't care about the money you "saved" them originally. In other words, one "uh-oh" cancels a whole lot of "atta boys". This is considered a smart practice.

[@unexpectedpigeon6654]

@@mobilemechmantim773 that's the uh oh us DIY guys dont see as reasonable. I just changed mine and it was literally locked up. That one was just fine and more than likely the customer looked back at this video for job reference. I see and smell bs. It's always good to make a preventative decision. But really. It smelled.

[@mobilemechmantim773]

@@unexpectedpigeon6654 DIY is different. You are responsible for the repair you make. If you decide to chance using the blower motor again, it's on you if the resistor fails. Also, there is such a thing as a blower motor drawing excessive current without being locked up. You have to look at the whole picture to get to the root cause. If you don't eliminate the root cause, you didn't repair it correctly. It's like this. If your tire has a nail in it and goes flat, you can fix the symptom by airing it up, but its gonna be flat again soon. You have to repair the hole in the tire to keep it from happening again.

[@unexpectedpigeon6654]

@@mobilemechmantim773 I know where you're getting at but a flat tire compared to a still good working blower is by far different. It's like saying because you "had" a nail in it, you'll have to replace the whole tire let alone you can patch it within the inside. Get my point? Imagine watching a video of a guy saying oh darn, theres a nail in the tire. Have to go replace it with a new one. That's what I see when I see this. Yes, DIY is not set in stone but it's like the example I gave. It's just one of those things that the voltages were not really far off and he just gave a bs excuse to need to change it. Like the tire. You can patch it, but itll "probably fail" down the road. See?

[@mobilemechmantim773]

@@unexpectedpigeon6654 I think you missed the point of my analogy. I said that you have to repair the root cause to keep the symptom from happening again. I said nothing about replacing the tire because it has a hole in it. Again, a blower motor can turn and draw excessive amperage, both in-rush current and running current. I said nothing about voltage. The same voltage is supplied and will drop across the motor even when the current becomes excessive up to a point. When the motor speed drops enough, the current will rise and you could see the supply voltage lower and the ground voltage raise slightly, although it may not stand out on a DVOM. I think if he used an oscilloscope it would have shown a better picture of how it was failing, but he didn't. I am going to make a suggestion and it is in good faith. I think you are a smart person and I don't want to make you think I am trying to belittle you. Here are a couple of books that changed my understanding of automotive electrical systems. 1. Fundamental Electrical Troubleshooting by Dan Sullivan 2. Vehicle Electrical Troubleshooting Shortcuts by Vince Fischelli 3. Engine Performance Diagnostics by Paul Danner The first and third authors have KZbin channels. I don't think I am any smarter than you. I have just been doing this for a while and I thought I could share my perspective on the matter. Not all techs are crooks. I think we have an obligation to educate people about the hows and whys of what we do in order to get away from the image that a few bad apples have caused.

[@Rhine_Labs]

LOL cut one wire at a time... and well learn to use flux and how to solder!! ROFLMAO hahaha..

[@christopherlastname7638]

Um stop you need to stop now your going to ruin someone’s car you put the resisters in wrong