Samsung UN46FH6030FXZA LED TV No Backlights Voltage Test Troubleshoot LEDs & Power Supply

[@danilorobertorasch502]

Hello Jimmy. First of all, I would like to congrats you for the videos. This one and the one about backlight / flashlight helped me a lot on the investigation of my issue. I just would like to have your opinnion to be sure I really identified the problem. I have a Samsung UN40FH5303GXZD. Audio and flashlight are working fine. Power supply is most likely the issue. When I turn the TV on, I can see the backlight blinking. It blinks really fast, like one milisecond, once each 20 seconds. I barely can see it blinking. When I test the voltage (as you teached on the video), the voltages are dropping down during 20 seconds. Then they go up again and starting dropping down. This repeats for ever. There are nine pins on the plug. The voltages start at around 170, 170, 130, 130, 0, 110, 110, 80, 80. Then, each one starts dropping. This happens with the backlight cable and without it. What is your thought?

[@Killerbeege]

Did you ever find out the issue? was it power related? I know I have bad strips which I ordered a new set but my voltage is doing the same dang thing.

[@DevKumar-tq4rg]

Beautyfull video sir Good job sir thank u

[@OldSkoolF]

THE BEST LED TV Video out there!!! Great vid guys keep it up!

[@alexfichter6753]

So I’m assuming high voltage on half the lights (strip connected and unconnected) and half have zero voltage would mean the power supply board if faulty correct? You guys do a killer job -thanks

[@DilutedImage]

Thanks for this great video. I do have one question though - where did you connect the negative test lead?

[@Scorpiomaj27889]

+DilutedImage The negative is on the chassis in their other videos, just anywhere on the big metal sheet.

[@DilutedImage]

+scorpiomaj27 - Great; thanks. I used one of the corner screws, which seemed to work well. I only had voltage on one pin though. When the display cable was connected, I got power looping back through two others, but without it only one pin was hot. Any thoughts on what might cause that? Thanks again for this great video. It was very helpful in ensuring I was testing those pins properly.

[@Scorpiomaj27889]

+DilutedImage I'm not sure on that, I have a similar issue I haven't been able to figure out. I IMAGINE that when the TV is powered on all the + leads should have power - but they didnd't say on the video.

[@brad-f7q]

Great vid. How to separate metal sheet from panel. UN46H6203AF? Flashlight test-positive. Have wires disconnected. Thanks

[@tobiasripper4124]

i like your videos. extremely helpful. now, as lazy as i am, i dint check if you already made a video of what im about to explain. i just feel this kind of fixes are not as common knowledge as it should. on LCD ccfl panels, the cheap ones... i mean the very cheap ones... they dont shield the lamps from the boards correctly. its just a plastic case with the boards screwed on top. here is the thing.. when the ccfl lamps go old, they tend to emante some kind of magentic field that makes the vcom board go nutz. and so you end up with a black screen with sound. just tinfoil the back of the board (all the plastic chasis while you are at it, why the hell not) and add some plastic sheet behind it (to avoid any risk of shorts with the back of the vcom). if you come accross a black screended with sound tv, just try to shield the vcom board. cost nothing as a test and might save you several dollarines. (specially if you keep thinking the vcom goes bad when it actually is fine). would love to see a video of it. thanks again.. and fix em all.

[@muhammadsyed7981]

Hi, you have presented an excellent video showing voltages to verify BN44-00564C Power Board. How to check Power Board BN44-00667A? I would really appreciate if you could walk me through

[@mattwhite7014]

1) What is considered "normal voltage"? 2) I have three (positive) test points. Only one of them gives a reading of 160v. The other two are showing 0v. Is that an indication of a bad power supply board? (LED connector is unplugged.)

[@pajoun]

Most likely not. You have to check the power supply PCB to make sure how is the connection maintained. In this case I'd assume it is wired in series, meaning you get positive charge only on first positive connector on power board and the rest would be connected on the pcb from negative to positive. Eg. 1- to 2+, 2- to 3+ and so on. The strips then would be in series not each of them powered separately.

[@hannabrandt7239]

Hi, I just ordered BN44-00669A from Samsung. Only (1) D+ has voltage when (4) S- , (6) S+ and (9) D- have no voltage. I believe power board is defective because (6) should have voltage too. Am I right ?

[@markmlejnek7026]

I have a UN55FH6030 that has minimal strobe effect only on the top third of the TV. I performed this check and all checks out fine. I can actually see the strobe effect coming from the top section with the TV screen down, apart with the light coming through the panel holes. Is it possible to have leds going bad causing the strobe effect and still check out correctly voltage wise? Thanks.

[@AlCatrraz]

I am testing, what seems to be EXACT POWER SUPPLY as you have in the video.... The voltage on the LED-BACKLIGHT connector is EXTREMELY HIGH - @ 267V !!! regardless of MAIN BOARD connected or not... Any Idea what would cause that - I want to fix the board... just hints where to look... THNX

[@laytonschabert2993]

I have the same issue, I'm getting about 330 volts at the power board, leds plugged in or not. Could this also damage all of the LEDs?

[@andrew6139]

ON MY POWER SUPPLY UNDER IT IT HAS NON CONDUCTIVE PAPER THAT HAS PLASTIC RIVET HOLDING IT UNDER THE CIRCUIT BOARD IS THERE ANY SPECIAL WAY TO REMOVE THE PLASTIC RIVETS OR HAVE SEEN THEM THANK YOU

[@tricksvo]

I have a un65fh6001 more then 25% of the leds are out. Each strip is random. Some strips are completely out while some of 1-2 on. However when swapping a completely out strip to a different position some power on while the other strip that had a few working will not work at all. Would you say this was a power board problem? I did the test in the video my tv on has 2 positives. Both showed 250v only. I did not get any of the results in this video. Not sure if I should swap power board or strips. Thanks

[@richbland6697]

I have a Samsung model UN55J620DAFXZA (Version TS01) Is there a separate video for my model? or will this video's logic apply to me also? I see that there are 5 + labeled connections to test on my board vs. the 4 in your video. Assuming that the same logic applies, is the voltage that I am looking for still 40V for this model? Also, this might be a dumn ?, but where does the black (negative) connection from my multi meter go for this test? I see the red (positive) one in the video, but not sure where the black (negative) one is. I do have sound and I do see an image during the flashlight test. Thanks!

[@basichromatic]

I'll take a chance and hope you reply. I have a Samsung clicking noise. I did a quick troubleshoot and noticed it would power on when the backlights aren't plugged. any ideas of what to check for? caps don't look puffy. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@dontuleja1952]

I have a samsung model un40f5000afxza. It has no picture but the sound works. I ran the flashlight test and I can see video with the flashlight on the screen. Do you know of any test points on the power supply board so that I can isolate a component or verify that the board needs to be replaced. The power board is a BN44-00609A.

[@davidjanzen8304]

I just ordered a replacement board from you guys, the backlight suddenly and totally went out on my TV Sunday night. Do you often see or expect issues with the individual strips with that sort of failure? or is it more likely a total board failure and the single part will get me back up and running? Thanks a lot!

[@RosesforMarilyn]

Question. My tv has d+1 not M. Is that the ones I test and how do I know what normal voltage is?

[@rickkiesznowski1784]

I notice what appears to be a fuse next to the power connecter on the board. Is this something to consider?

[@rickkiesznowski1784]

Never mind.......I noticed it's not a fuse......Duh Huh!

[@brianfritz2109]

Awesome videos you guys rock. I am working on my 65inch Samsung LED TV and the bottom half of TV shows picture but is dimmer and flickers every 3-4 seconds. I have verified that all LED strips properly function. I’m wondering if maybe the power to the strips is weak? What is the suspected culprit for my problem and how should I test it?? Any advice would be appreciated!

[@jaycermenaro8777]

Brian, I am having EXACTLY the same problem as you. Did you ever figure out how to fix it?

[@russelllait9222]

I have a UN40H6203 that recently the backlights quit working. The power supply in this TV is similar to the one in the 6030 (the UN40H6203 has a BN44-00773. Like the one in this video there are three voltages provided to the LED strips: D1+, D1-, D2+, D2-, and D3+, D3-. I measured D1+, D2+, and D3+ and found that D1 and D2 read ~180v, and D3 was 0v. I replaced the power supply with a new one and found the same readings, and the backlights remained off. While remeasuring the voltages my probe shorted D2+ to D3+, and the backlights came on. Although I found this by mistake, I decided to see what woudl happen if I shorted D2+ to D3+ with a wire, and for the past few hours the TV has been working fine. It appears as though all the backlight strips are lit up properly, and the power supply does not seem to be overheating. Any thoughts on how to troubleshoot this further? I have not been able to find much in terms of troubleshooting guides for the BN44-00773 power supply board, and I have not been able to locate schematics. Any thoughts on how to best proceed would be appreciated.

[@TimButterworth]

Did you have any further luck? I have nearly the same issue, but the upper led strip now seems dimmer than the bottom two (but still lit, as best I can tell.)

[@ryanr9678]

I am having the same problem. M1+ shows 300V when powered on and 160V when powered off. M2+, M3+, M4+, and M5+ all read 0V when powered on or off. I too accidently bridged M1+ and M1- with my multimeter lead and all the light strips lit up. Have you found a permanent fix?

[@russelllait9222]

I have not been able to find the root cause, but my less than kosher fix of adding the short between the light strip channels has worked well. It has been running since my last post, and I see no further problems. Russell

[@russelllait9222]

Nothing further, but the short between voltage channels that I described has worked well. Running for roughly 2 months now. Russell

[@ryanr9678]

Did you have to solder a bridge wire? Do you have a pic? Any details would be great!

[@swampysanta5445]

got a tv there's 24 volts running to the back lights even when the tv is off and when u power it on voltage jumps to 70-80 volts for a few seconds then it comes down to 24 volts then when the volts drops the back lights shuts off so would it be the power board or a led strip problem?

[@hesselflach6812]

My UN39FH5000 has no backlight. It disappeared while I was watching TV. There is a flashlight image and sound. Since everything went all at once, does that mean it can't be one individual LED but is more likely a board issue, or does this model go down with the first burnout. The voltages to the LED's are around 250, which is way higher than expected.

[@MohamedSConteh-q3n]

I have a BN44-00851A samsung power supply board whose voltage going to the backlights is 156v too high that it blows off the led backlights frequently, what to do to solve this problem

[@joshuapicard623]

What should the voltages be for a UN55J6201AFXZA? Im getting some off the wall readings over 200 on M1+ pin and 88 on M5+ pin...

[@emichemich4938]

Hello Do you know where on this board is the LED Driver? Thanks

[@faridsakaev1917]

Thank you for great video on your channel. I have same problem on my Samsung TV UN55KU7000F with two LED light strips part # ...39602A and ..39601A. Please tell me what voltage coming from Power Supply Board to those LED lights?

[@jimpanse6556]

My Samsung LED TV has only backlight on the bottom half of the screen and none on the top half. Flashlight test shows an image on the hole screen. I tested voltages and got a scenario you didnt cover in video. With cable pluged in, I get different voltages on every point (250, 200, 153 and 107 V). Without the LED cable pluged in I get 360 V at the first and 0V on the other 3 points. Ist that a problem with the LEDs or the power supply (BN44-00519B)?

[@RealEstateFireman]

I have the Samsung UN55H6203AF and have a black screen with sound. The flashlight test shows an image so I am assuming this means the t-con card is functional and not the issue. I tested the power supply and found M+1 has ~320v while M+2, M+3 & M+4 have ~0v. I discounted the ribbon cable and tested it again and found the same voltage readings.** Update 04/06/2017 **I have now replaced the power supply / LED Board twice part number BN44-00774A with the same results. When I called **shopjimmy.com** about the first board failing they were nice enough to send me a replacement that day and with the same 2 day express shipping I used for my purchase. Unfortunately I am getting same results with high volts on M+1 and zero volts on M+2 thru M+4. What are the chances I am getting a defective board twice? I did ask the nice lady if they tested the boards before they were shipped out. The answer surprised me a little. I was told they salvage boards out of "cosmetically damaged" TV's and were not tested for functionality. I have followed the steps in this video step by step and shows symptoms of a bad power supply / led board I am at a loss. I am going to take the two boards I received from **ShopJimmy.com** to have them tested at a repair shop and get their input. Stand by for another update.** End of Update 04/06/2017 **

[@clayboycooper359]

Kevin Slaton wondering what you found out . I have replaced pwr board and have bad voltages at led points. Samsung 55 smart TV not even 2 yrs old. please reply if ya can

[@RealEstateFireman]

Sorry been busy and unable to follow-up on my post. it turned out that the issue was NOT the power board. I had a single Led bulb that was out. The board Diagnostics shown in the video did not seem to be to be correct. I followed each step and even had the technician that ended up fixing my TV perform the same test. is results matched my results. the end result was that the board I had in my TV was still good and I only needed to replace the LED bulbs. I did not have the workspace or the time needed to take apart the TV and replace the bulbs so I just had them do it for me.

[@clayboycooper359]

hey thanks for info Kevin, I will investigate the LED bulbs. very helpful thanks for getting back.

[@raymondcisneros931]

Kevin Slaton thank you much man!!! i was starting to run down into another crossroads with my OOTWorld TV. thank you for giving me back perspective, sounds like you may have even found the solution to my problem, good day good sir.

[@GoodHydration]

you could have watched the whole video including the part of the video about high voltage meaning LED problems.

[@Scorpiomaj27889]

Hello, I have a different model with D+ and S+, I checked all the + leads and found that the S+ leads are all coming back as 0 volts, the D+ are around 230V. I'd imagine the S+ leads should have voltage, right?

[@RosesforMarilyn]

scorpiomaj27 did you ever figure this out? I have the same ones

[@pajoun]

Most probably connected in series. Check the PCB. Is the D- linked to S+ on the board?

[@hernanandresp]

i have 33vcc in 4 point....the power supply is bad? is possible replace all electrolitic capacitor?

[@cv3nda367]

I have 255V on backlight connector when its both connected or disconnected and the backlight just blinks on startup, and when I disconnect main board, the voltage is 160V but the LEDs doesnt even blink ... the board says that the rating values should be 140V and 260mA ... seems like a power supply issue, one 200V 47uF capacitor is slightly blown up, I will try to replace it

[@christiantorres4127]

I'm having problems with that tv that I have dark spots around the border of the screen and the only way I could see the screen the best is by turning off the eco dimming settting what could be the possible part I would have to change

[@LegendaryDakku]

where do u connect for ground while measuring?

[@markmlejnek7026]

ANAS HAMADA you can connect anywhere to the back metal panel. There are screws that also hold the board to the panel with a metal tab. That is a ground point.

[@MRBMN-zp4cd]

This is really good information👏 but that disco or club music in the background is garbage 🤮

[@gojkoradanovich5824]

I have Samsung TV UN 39FH5000 FXA that don't have backlight also when plugged in power stand by light flashes 6 times. I was measuring voltage on wires to backlight and got different reading when main board connected to power supply board reading goes to zero, but when main board disconnected, reading is 193V on connector D+ but when I measure voltage on wires from mainboard to power supply board voltage is as noted on power supply board. can you please advise what to change to fix it? Reply

[@ryangilley3212]

I have a 40" Samsung tv. I have sound with NO picture. I can see the picture with a flashlight. I have replaced the backlight inverter and the power supply board and still not working. What else am I missing? Thanks

[@maniatore2006]

Thank you, so i need a Multimeterto be sure :) Before i order a new Power Supply

[@carlpeters9047]

so what should the voltage be on a samsung 40inch led t.v to the back light from the power board,.

[@GoodHydration]

Carl Peters try to Google search

[@kixxthemanz437]

If the screen is black and flash light shows picture that’s dim, instead of replacing the LED strips just find the LED Driver and replace the capacitor or Diode a lot easier and no cost, I had 2 repair people tell me I need all new strips and I just changed a capacitor and walla works perfect again

[@josephmelville9141]

hi I did exactly what you did but I am only getting power 190v on 1 an 2 when the jack is out. when plugged in 1 &2 are the same but now I get 110v on 3 an 4?

[@stephandebije2890]

I have a L40GF_DDY BN44-00666A when i measure on pin s3+ i measure 0 volt. S2 + is normal and dc + also normal. When i make a bridge from dc + to s3+ my backlight works. I replaced the power supply but same problem. Please help me out what the problem is.

[@jriley4033]

I know your comment was 2 years ago, but I'm having a similar issue with a different tv. Did you get this problem fixed with your L40GF_DDY BN44-00666A? If so, what did you do?

[@onemansvideos2134]

Can you help...I have high voltage when I checked mine I know I probably need a new board but I'd like to try to fix it before that

[@senbin]

I have the same mine is 421.1 v

[@moamedmahdy9953]

I have problem in Samsung smart LED tv model UA40 F6400 no back light after I check all LED and voltage all ok only problem negative voltage come to LED array come from controlled surface mount IC SLC 2013M(EA0052GP) which didn’t give switching ground to allow LED light to On

[@KevinnG714]

I have a Samsung 46inch tv and it turn off on me today, I was wondering what it was? The t-con board or led backlight, it has sound but no imagine but I I use a flashlight I can see the imagine please some help guys and a website where I can get the parts please!

[@josecisneros4686]

its your led backlight

[@Killerbeege]

Is it safe to say that I need to replace the power board as well as my LED's? I have 3 strips that are shorted out 1 with a dead LED and 1 with a dim LED. This test was done without the screen connected to the unit. I also have a video of the LED's trying to turn on for a split second. drive.google.com/open?id=1aqQ8sHl-MVeBk9t0y9x5YLDbEsS1q9Ue LED's Connected Volts M1+ : 300-320 M1- : 240 - 280 M2+ : 240 - 285 M2- : 214 - 250 N.C : 0 M3+ : 214 -250 M3- : 189 - 225 N.C : 0 M4+ : 189 - 225 M4- : 173 - 211 M5+ : 152 - 190 M5- : 152 - 190 LED's Disconnected Volts M1+ : 320 Volts M1- : 0 M2+ : 0 M2- : 0 N.C 0 M3+ : 0 M3- : 0 N.C : 0 M4+ : 0 M4- : 0 M5+ : 0 M5- : 0

[@pjthe1]

Sir, I want to know that what are that very small ic type black components on led strip near connector of 12V & 24V for 12V it has some number on it (2F E0) and 24 V burnt so I don't know that component number.and I have to replace that component. Please help.

[@ganeshtech33]

Second time change led strip y reason sir

[@tgjr79]

I get high measurements on M1 and nothing on all the others with the TV plugged in and on. What does that mean?

[@JubinZaboul]

Hey I have the same problem. Did you find the solution?

[@fadhelabbas2393]

l checked the voltages at these four points and found there two points read 320 v and athers zero , the problem is has dark bar on top of screen could you help me please

[@shopjimmy]

+Fadhel Abbas Try all repairs and troubleshooting at your own risk. This sounds like a TV panel (TV Screen) problem. If your TV panel is bad, it may be more cost-effective to replace the TV as panels are typically hard to find in stock, difficult to replace, and expensive. Thanks and please let us know if you have any further questions! www.shopjimmy.com

[@roypatrick8170]

Samsung 50"led Tv backlight blinking LED ok power supply board complaint

[@joshuabonorino9561]

My SAMSUNG is dark all over and dont truly know what could be the problem

[@dileepanands8391]

Same isuue

[@احسانالكنعاني]

good