What do you wish your shop had? // Shop Build 5

[@jackalope30]

dude...trust me. add a few outlets to your ceiling for ceiling-mounted retractable extension cords. You will use those pull down extension cords A LOT more than you will ever use the wall outlets. I also agree with the GFCI outlet near the toilet--do it now while its easy!

[@keifferrowe5189]

This can't get enough likes, i have 2 cord reels and they are such a time saver.

[@ShopNation]

Yes sir, I have (4) outlets in the ceiling spread around the shop for just that reason

[@joeymerrell8585]

Gfci is required per code in bathrooms. If you think you have enough outlets, add 10 more. If you think about airlines, add two more drops than you originally planned.

[@wankerswaterwerks8108]

GFCI’s throughout

[@MRReplayAudio]

​@@joeymerrell8585GFCI is actually required in the whole structure.

[@ericnicastro]

Put an air drop outside your garage door for airing tires. But more importantly, put one outside near the kitchen area/pool for inflating pool toys. It’s something I wish I could do but our pool is too far away from my garage.

[@ShopNation]

What a killer idea...

[@MyAdventureContinues]

@@ShopNation He is absolutely right. Outside by the pool.

[@TheDustyShed]

@@ShopNation If you are going all in, may as well send a airline to your irrigation system as well for winterizing that system. Maybe an additional to the main garage for airing up tires.

[@rhettdunn8788]

Anyone else picturing the scene from Arrested Development where Tobias and Lindsey are buying a house and keep adding on options so it’s there if they need it?

[@CurtisDrew1]

I added an airline from my shops air compressor to my 3 car garage, and it has saved me a ton of time and hassle by eliminating dragging out an air hose to air up low tires and blow out dust etc in the garage. I put a small hobby work cabinets & counter top in the garage for the wife's hobby place. Mainly to keep her out of my tool boxes.

[@Smomobiler]

I have air run thru my shop in a similar way. I would recommend regulators at the drop so you don't have to run upstairs to change air pressure. And it's nice to have two different pressures on different lines. Never thought I'd use that, but I do more than expected.

[@jbdragon3295]

I ran it in my garage. I have some ports mounted on back of work bench, but the more important ones on the 2 hose reals on the ceiling which get used the most by far. One is double the length and can reach almost across the street. But allows be to easily read outside on the side of the garage to work on cars and back into the backyard for things I want to do back there all without having to plug in another air hose I’d have to coil up when done.

[@KITDFOHS]

Wire chase or smurf tubes from the electronics room up to the attic for future wiring needs. Even with having access, having it in place just makes doing future work that much easier. Maybe even look at doing one through the wall so you can run stuff in and out of the shop easier should that need arise. Matt Risinger did that with his home build and I thought it was a pretty good idea.

[@RickHamlet]

Planning vegetation around the pool, or perhaps a garden? Consider the irrigation system and where to put the controller and the backflow preventer if required. Also, a fire pit near the pool would be nice as well; may want to consider natural gas or propane to the pit. Love the video.

[@AaronSchmidt52]

Great tip, take LOTS pictures of all the ceilings and walls after everything is roughed in, before sheeting goes up. They come in SUPER handy later.

[@briancouch2963]

RV 30A and/or 50 amp RV electrical connection near your garage door and consider putting in a RV sewer dump somewhere near also. A RV is great when family visits!

[@jimpalmer1944]

One thing you might consider is providing an easy way to empty the dust collector. My shop is primarily for woodworking and the machines create a lot of dust and wood chips. 30 plus gallons of wood shavings, sawdust and just dust is heavy.

[@idontthinkso666]

That occurred to me too. With most set-ups, the unit is all together, so I don't see how he can put the extractor in the upstairs and the dust barrel downstairs. I'm assuming he'll use a cyclone system (hopefully an Oneida). I'm also wondering if he has the necessary height for the unit. He's thought of everything else, so I'm sure he has a plan for this too.

[@briant2259]

Wall Mount Garage Opener - I installed one so there is less clutter on the ceiling to bang a board into. Plus they are quieter. Ceiling Hoist - I use it to lift items onto the table to work on. Used it to assemble my floor standing drill press. Plus as you get older you want wheels on everything and a machine to lift items. :-) Also the shop is looking great! I am sure you will appreciate the air conditioning.

[@k30blzr]

Add some compressed air outlets outside, one by the pool and one by the driveway, once you have air you'll use it a lot and not everything will be inside.

[@nwngunner]

This, air outside is nice for airing up tires on the car and truck with out having to open the doors and letting all your conditioned air out.

[@TheStevedie]

Agreed. At least an air outlet at the front and one on the side or back.

[@EM1473]

An air outlet outside facing the pool is a fantastic idea. It will make it easier to blow out the water lines when winterizing the pool.

[@billwaters6815]

Very thoughtful design and execution! After having built now 7 workshops in various locations in my 72 years, I don’t think you have left much out - but I have just two suggestions. One has already been mentioned just above in the comments: ceiling outlets for reel-type extension cords. Reelcraft and Cox reels are really expensive, and, having owned more than 12 of them, I’d suggest going with knockoffs such as those sold by Northern Tool. They are as good or better. The second is to run some form of conduit between the first and second floor against the future need of running things you can’t anticipate now. The gray 1.5” os 2” PVC conduit sold in the electrical section of big box stores is what I’ve used. While your access doors into the eaves of the attic will be very helpful if you retrofit something later, you still would have to deal with insulation, etc. If you haven’t already started drywall, extremely easy to do now. Best of luck.

[@ShopNation]

Excellent tips! Thank you

[@tomatha3713]

If you add the strapping to the faces of the joists instead of the bottoms you can pull your ducting up, so it won't rest on the drywall ceiling.

[@idontthinkso666]

That's true. But long-term I'd want that anchored more securely. I'd use metal strapping.

[@bennyhill314]

You’ve talked about low voltage wiring and surveillance cameras - what about wiring for other sensors? Everything from smoke/carbon monoxide detectors to temperature, humidity, water leak detection and of course security lines for doors/windows (which I would not expect you to mention publicly)? This makes me think of fire suppression - have you planned on mounting a fire extinguisher or two somewhere in the shop? I don’t remember you saying anything about storage. I’m specifically thinking about storage for pool chemicals, toys, and such. I store our pool toys outside in one of those plastic storage sheds but I keep all the chemicals in the garage because I feel they should be in a (somewhat) temperature/humidity controlled environment. I’m loving this series of videos - thank you!

[@CatchiestWorm12]

I'm absolutely stunned at how well you have planned for and thought of everything that you want, need, don't want, don't need, and everything in between, and how you've been able to execute all of your ideas in an extremely satisfying way. Additionally, you've done a great job of tacking hard parts of the project yourself, but also knowing your limits and knowing when to call professionals. I really do wish I had a mind like yours.

[@mattsanford11]

Run an additional Cat6 line out to the area you have your outdoor kitchen (for an outdoor AP), and maybe out to the wall looking at the pool so you can add an outdoor AP for wifi all around the pool. Wifi is the future and you can get that done now for pennies!

[@ShopNation]

Ooooo good call!

[@robertvarano8853]

@@ShopNationalso a dedicated run for the outdoor entertainment. I’m assuming your ganna have some sort of tv setup for that baller pool/grill area. Don’t wanna be streaming the big game on wifi to have it dropping out. Also maybe it’s a future video but other low voltage stuff? Speaker wire for pool area and shop? Ethernet runs in the shop?

[@cbass377]

While you are running one for the Access Point, may as well run 4. 1 for the AP, 1 for the POE camera, 1 for the TV or streaming box, and 1 for whatever comes down the road next month. And also a pull string for the month after that.

[@KinaestheticDmaw]

@@ShopNationHighly suggest that you also run a pull cord alongside your CAT6 Ethernet lines as well, in case you need to pull another cable in the future. You can always replace it whenever you use the pull cord by binding the new Ethernet and a new pull cord when you pull that through with the old one. Really important since you aren’t running low voltage conduit (which would’ve been an even better option).

[@tannerhaugrud5281]

You might also want to run additional speaker wire out to the outdoor kitchen or pool area. Not sure what you plan is for the pool though.

[@T3ch4L1fe]

Can’t have a pool party without tunes. I would drop at least two lines for outdoor speakers near the kitchen.

[@admile3]

this was going to be my suggestion as well. You are absolutely going to want speakers underneath that covered patio.

[@LordSaliss]

Add a GFCI outlet in the toilet area and get a decent bidet attachment to the toilet. Not necessarily for the regular functions of such a device, but for the heated seats. It is really nice for a garage toilet in winter time when you sit down 👍 Grab one on sale during black friday and they are not very expensive.

[@timderks5960]

Why do Americans still not understand the possibility of adding ground fault protection to entire buildings? How can you not want GF protection in a shop that's filled with METAL electric tools? Is it okay for a live wire to touch the metal frame of a machine and make it live, just because it's not in a bathroom? Just because you only use 120V doesn't mean you don't need to take electricity seriously.

[@Lavasioth]

@@timderks5960 Its becoming the norm. When we bought out 100 yo house instead of going and rewiring all of the knob and tube buried in the walls we installed a new and larger breaker box with 200 amp service and GFCI breakers for the entire house. We're getting trips like twice a month, but its better than the house burning down. And as we go through and renovate each room I rip out and replace the K&T wiring. But GFCI breakers are definitely coming in vogue in the US. Not sure if they are now code required for new builds though.

[@SCP75-6]

@@Lavasioth, ground fault will not prevent a fire , only shocks…. You need arc fault for fire prevention.

[@3nertia]

@@timderks5960 Because in a shop, the GFCI is usually done through the breaker box lol

[@Lavasioth]

@@SCP75-6 sorry, you're correct, arc fault breakers are what we have.

[@jackcoats4146]

Air dryer for the compressed air. You are about as OCD as I am. Enjoying all your vids. A 'wiring closet' is great. Have some hvac run to it too, no need for a minisplit head, just a inlet and exhaust fan to keep the air freshened so it doesn't get to dry/wet depending. I am sure you are doing that to the 'utility area' upstairs.

[@IamTomzo]

I find a shop sink to be a very useful item - not sure if you plumbed for one near the restroom or not, but I would.

[@MaxG628]

+1 for a utility sink

[@ShopNation]

Sure did!

[@davids8493]

​@@ShopNation get the biggest utility sink that you can find. Trust me, you will never regret it.

[@zski03]

I'm only a couple minutes into this video so I don't know if you've got this covered later, but PLEASE add sprinklers to your shop. You'll be glad you did.

[@Ron-FabandBuild]

Loving the shop build series. Well thought out. Can't wait to see the finished product. Love all the air drops. I would have done the same on all of it. Great job so far.

[@hdwoodshop]

Two things come to mind: When we built a house a few years ago I added hoist hooks (1/2 steel plate with a 2in hole) for lifting heavy furniture to the large ridge beams. These are super useful. Only other cable I didn’t see is HDMI or 4K digital cables for a video entertainment system. Cables are expensive but you strategically place one run to hide the source to a large TV if you decide to add one.

[@PrograError]

IMO, he should just have an empty pipe running the trunk for most of those systems. Internet, Audiovisual systems kept improving, so it's just better to have some way to easily be upgraded.

[@michiganengineer8621]

Most, if not all of these are probably mentioned in individual comments but: 1. Two outdoor air outlets. One at the pool for toys and one near the shop entrance for flat tires. 2. More ceiling mounted outlets, You WILL be wanting a couple of retractable extension cords. 3. Another vote for a GFCI outlet next to the throne, could be for a bidet, could be for a heated seat. 4. An ethernet jack near where you MIGHT put an outdoor TV set. WiFi works most of the time. Properly run ethernet ALWAYS works 5. Ethernet jacks on the outside for wireless access points, depending on the actual size and layout of your outdoor area you should probably wire for at least two. 6. Outdoor speakers that can be turned on and off separately from those inside the shop. If you want to get fancy, and expensive, look at some of the "zoned" amplifier systems where you can route any source to any destination.

[@andrewnorwood3288]

I absolutely respect how this channel has evolved. From a single car garage in Texas to a new custom work space in the Midwest. The evolution is inspiring. I agree with others on here...add more outlets on the ceiling.

[@ShopNation]

Thank you!

[@JCWren]

I love the MaxLine stuff. I have a 3/4" loop in my shop with (currently) 5 drops and a MaxLine regulator/drier on each drop. There's also a regulator/drier at the air compressor from Stupid Simple Tools, and shortly I'll get around to finishing a modification to the air compressor that uses an automotive transmission cooler with a fan between the compressor head and the tank. By cooling the air before it goes into the tank, you eliminate almost all moisture from the tank, giving you drier air and preventing tank corrosion. This air feeds a lathe, mill, surface grinder, plasma table, and is also used for general air tools for automotive work. The MaxLine stuff is a bear to straighten, especially when you're OCD and it's visible. I 3D printed a handful of different spaces for the air line clips to make everything even. The clips stand the 3/4" air line out about 3/4" from the wall to the center of the pipe, and the regulators standoff about 1" to the center of the pipe. Very annoying.

[@GongaDuck]

I remember when I started watching this channel... just about 1k subs and doing all he could in a one-car garage. Dude's come a long way since then. Love this content, and look forward to seeing you complete the shop.... again. *smirk* Thank you Travis for all that you've done, continue to do, and will do in the future.

[@ADBBuild]

Unless code requires it, skip the drywall and use either OSB or plywood. This makes mounting things to the wall WAY easier, and if you need to open the wall up, just pull the screws and remove the panel, then replace when done.

[@nolancraw]

I clad my Garage Shop walls in OSB for this very reason. I'm never going to paint it, but you could still paint it. This is also how I jacked up my shoulder. OSB is super heavy.

[@idontthinkso666]

I agree with ADB on the wall cladding. Wood walls for a shop are definitely the way to go. I did this in my shop and it's been great for mounting tons of things to. And easy to patch a screw hole and paint. Go with wood! And no disrespect to others, but don't use OSB. I get that it's cheap, but cheap is not always better. Go with a nice plywood or beaded panelling. It'll look a million times better!

[@johnheadley7650]

Drywall is a firestop, Plywood or OSB or any other wood is asking for disaster if a fire were to occur in your shop. . . its a good idea to use firecode sheetrock if you are welding in there. .

[@Janovich]

Or atleast put OBS behind the drywall for the same reason. Also makes installing the drywall much easier.

[@cabe_bedlam]

If you dont mind the aesthetic, cable raceways are the way forward as it makes changing stuff easy. If you prefer in-wall cable ducting leave a draw string in each. Make it 2x the length of the duct so you can pull it all the way out tie off and pull it all the way back and it's always there.

[@wags99999]

May want to run a conduit or two, from the panel to potential areas of need. No need to pull wires but will save you much angst in the future. If you ran all the electric in conduit, it makes is so easy to add circuits later on. We always did conduit, and it always paid off in the future. By using the 3/4" piping for air, you're basically increasing the size of your compressed air capacity, like adding a bigger tank. We ran 1" pipe, with 3/4 drops and we never ran out of air. On your dust collection, you want to limit your turns and use sweeps rather than tight turns, it will increase air flow and make your system more efficient. Also be sure to ground any metal ducting when using it for dust collection, static electric can cause an inline fire. Also try and limit any flexible lines since they increase air drag since they are not smooth.

[@alanswanson5642]

Agreed I ran emt on my whole house it is not more expensive if you are doing the labor yourself

[@Overpar73]

Your shop is really coming together bud, everything is very thought out! I can sure tell you that there will be many more sleepless nights coming up as you're always thinking about what you need to do so you don't miss anything. I just finished up my 60x120x18 man cave that has everything you do to include numerous car lifts with in floor heat and poly aspartic floor covering. Take care and don't work too hard!

[@thtadthtshldntbe]

Run a conduit between you shop and house to connect them via a fiber optic cable so that you can easily extend your houses networking into the shop. Also make some more dead drops for cat 6a into your walls. A lot of C&C, or 3D printers which you might use in your shop someday are network aware.

[@zaqwsx121231234]

If you plan on getting a CNC machine definitely add an air drier next to your compressor. With the CNC comes many bins of dust collected so as someone stated already, coming up with an easy solution to empty said bin will make life a lot easier.

[@jwhite1089]

A water line for a wall-mounted pressure washer. Would be great to have around the pool, sidewalks, etc. That's something could easily be added later as well though. For hose bibs (if there are any) check out Aquor Water Systems. Mount it on a block prior to siding and it looks like the bee's knees. Also not sure if you mentioned this in another video but soundproofing allll around that utility room would make it nice and quiet - SafeNSound insulation in the walls and caulk the framing where it meets the floor and ceiling, around the outlets, and anywhere air can transfer from that room to the rest of the shop. But, looks great man! A dream shop indeed. I just ripped the ceiling off of my (2 year old) screened porch to "just add some Cedar T&G" but ended up pulling down the siding too and going through the same process on a much smaller scale. Cat6 for cameras and AP, lighting and fan, speaker runs, outlets, TV, etc, etc. Figuring out where everything goes and how to get power there is no simple task. I still haven't put up the Cedar T&G because I'm worried I might have forgotten something lmao.

[@Kyle-gq7tk]

Compressed air near the pool for filling up floats and one for the drive way for pumping up tires and running tools outside.

[@dadlife8289]

I have the DJI Mic 1 and it started having issues after 18 months. I bought the DJI Mic 2 and its a huge improvement. Don't hesitate to upgrade if yours starts having issues!

[@jamesplotkin4674]

I'd suggest adding a short down-pipe with drain valve at each air drop so you can expel any moisture that can damage your air tools.

[@Dylan_Lanckman]

as a youtuber, you'd want to install DMX outlets for studio lighting. You can controll these using a traditional DMX controller, or have presets stored in a KNX bridge via a smart home system of your choice. Also, if you'd ever want to lear resin 3D printing, think about a seperate booth with venting for that.

[@ShopNation]

I'll have to look into those outlets, and yes I have a spare vent for just that purpose!

[@inspiringbuilds]

Nice work as always. I would suggest ensuring you have enough ceiling outlets as well as take a lot of photos of the ceiling and walls prior to drywall as it's super helpful in the future.

[@ThelifeofKingfish]

The fewer speakers you have the higher volume you need out of each speaker. In your space I would put at least three pair if not, four. You may even consider putting them on zones so you can adjust the volume in an area. You can play with this by putting multiple Bluetooth speakers in the area. Try putting one in the area, then two then three. If three works for you then will need three sets of speakers, if four is better than four sets of speakers.

[@joshlindsay2639]

Man I wish I could build my shop from the ground up like this. You are doing great. Several of the commenters below have given great advice. Better to add things now and never use them (network port, wire chase, etc.) than try and do that stuff later. Also, I use a compressed air blower almost every day (blowing off the work bench, blowing dog hair from clothing, etc.). Air connections are cheap. I would put several all around if possible. One other thing. I would really recommend installing good speakers and a good stereo receiver or amp that has enough power. Its a bummer to lose the ability to hear the music you are playing when you turn on a tool of some sort. Its better to be able to turn them up too loud than not being able to turn them up loud enough. Just my two cents. Again, great job.

[@Robys_Workshop]

First - Generally, dust collection is located next to a door - the hardest part of dust collection is emptying the drum and if you do anything, that will be a frequent activity. You want to minimize the distance you carry dust bag or drum in your shop in order to minimize spills and the fine particles that surround a dust bag. Second - Also, I used the max line system and I am currently chasing a leak. It works but my compressor works a lot more. If you are in the walls, use Sch 40 PVC and leak test it - or be prepared to listen to your compressor more often. Just a couple of things to consider

[@aaronwolk998]

Napfa codes for dust collection systems are something I'd consider familiarizing myself with.

[@Jigglers010101]

Throw and extra air outlet on the outside of the shop facing the pool area. It will make blowing up those inflatable pool toys so much easier that dragging a hose out the door or dragging the toy in and out of the shop.

[@AlienLeader4]

This is really starting to look like the amazing shop we knew you would build. Keep up the amazing work. 👽

[@m.e.h.]

I added a vent to exhaust air out of my shop with a one-way baffle. This has come in handy when using any finishes or CA glue. Also, added Rockwool sound-deadening between the ceiling/floor above… and walls between rooms (basement workshop). It made a huge difference.

[@CarlS-bb7yu]

Outstanding progress..! Two things to ponder... Dust collection moves a ton of air - depending on how your attic and main floor are closed off, this may create some issues to look for. Think vacuum or pressure on closed doors and or walls, light fixtures, and the like. The second item to consider would be with the HVAC efficency impact - moving volumms of air through the two spaces and the units. Lastly on the dust collector front - they need emptying - I know it's kind of a "doh" statemennt - but so is the "out of sight, out of mind" one.. :-) For your air systme(s), I like having a hose real near my main grage door for pulling out into the drivway to air up a tire or to blow something off. And lastly... you may want to add an air drier to the system - smaller compressors run hotter thus causing more humidity to turn into watter in your lines. The manual seprators are only so good. If you ever plan to have any sort of plasma cutter in the shop this will be a necesity (plus probably a compressor that can handle more CFM) Rotary-screw home shop sized compressors are showing up in the market place (I think Eastwood has a couple). Nice work - looking forward to the updates.

[@dadlife8289]

I have a Mr Cool wall unit in my garage and its the best purchase I ever made. Pretty easy to install with no prior experience

[@charleswright9898]

put the dust collector outside. if it is upstairs, you will not only hear it running but also have to carry all that heavy dust downstairs and outside anyways. Plus, sucking dust up is harder than sucking it down.

[@jlog7395]

Now having the dust collection motor in my shop, I wish I had put it outside because it is loud. Having it your attic I’m afraid will amplify the sound across your shop ceiling.

[@idontthinkso666]

I get it, it's easier to empty the dust if it's outside, plus quieter inside. But that arrangement creates Lotts of other headaches. What about makeup air? And how close are the neighbors? They'll hate that noise. And you need to shelter the unit from the weather, so what's that look like? He's not out in the country, so he can't build shacks everywhere. The perfect solution is to have the extractor upstairs, and have the dust dumped downstairs into a drum. It would be that hard to do, but you'd want to plan for that now.

[@mtnjak]

It's good to see all these well thought out details. I'm not planning a new shop like you are doing but it's good to see all of this so if and when I get to that point I'll have a good reference.

[@TrapDoorWoodworks]

I'm currently building my dream shop as well, and one thing I've learned over the years is to put all of the electricals outside of the wall in conduit. Shops are perpetually changing, and it's nice to be able to rapidly add or subtract a new outlet or pull heavier wire for a bigger machine. I worked in one shop where they cast the ductwork and conduit into the concrete floor - which was abandoned in a year or two when it clogged up and water leaked in. I am a firm believer in "nothing built in". No matter what you think things need to look like now, it will change in a year or two. My air lines (same ones you are running, also in a full loop) will have branches to the garage for tires, outside in back for working outdoors in nice weather, and four drops into the shop. I use pneumatic sanders so I need a bigger compressor. Air lines are prone to leakage and I would never run them inside a wall unless you have access to them, and watch out for dips in the line as water will collect there. I have hot and cold water planned as well, for a sink and a urinal. We ran a cat6 wire out there this summer, and it is a godsend! My shop is a post frame (like a faraday cage with all of that steel) and got zero reception until that was done. We also have a big air handler as well as a gas heater (Wisconsin winters 🥶). I hope to move the air compressor and dust collector outside of the shop at some point (along with a wood stove) in their own building - but that's down the road a ways if ever. Good luck with your build! I cant wait to see it up-and-running! 😊

[@Golfexpertbelieveme]

Take the straps you have holding the hvac tubing and screw them inbetween the rafter so it hold it above the flush level. Then just make some 3d printed brackets to brace it a little more every 10 feet or something.

[@TheWolfster001]

I added a Fire Suppression system to my shop a few years ago, and it saved me a LOT of money, I had a pellet wood burner in my shop, I don't know what caused it, but the fire somehow backfeed through where the auto pellet feeder and caused a fire, and The Fire Suppression stopped the fire, I only had minimal fire scorching and some water damage to the drywall.. As much wood I have in my shop, I could have lost everything.. Thanks for sharing, From another OCD sufferer (ME)

[@davidurfer7632]

Outdoor Kitchen - You will want hot water there too. We have an outdoor kitchen with some counter space. I put an electric gridle on it to cook bacon. Hot water would be great to wash hands between raw and cooked food handling and greasy splatter clean up.

[@idontthinkso666]

totally agree with Durfer. If you are handling dead bodies, you have to wash your hands a lot. Nasty shit.

[@BigMikeECV]

One low-voltage cable I put into my shop under construction is class 2 cable from the overhead lighting fixtures to the switch boxes. This will permit me to use 0-10V dimmable LED lighting fixtures. This also means that the occupancy sensors will slightly dim the lights before turning them off so I can notice and make a motion to reset them.

[@UnbeltedSundew]

You forgot that no matter how perfect it is, it's never going to be enough lol. But the space you are building looks really awesome, well done.

[@JayHuemann]

Fun to see this come together. Looks like you are very well planned out. I need to add an air conditioner in my shop and Mr. Cool looks like something to consider. Thanks. As far as the compressed air goes - one of my best decisions I made was to put a roboreel ceiling mount in the middle of the shop.

[@bwillan]

A dehumidifier would be a good addition to the shop. If you end up having a well insulated shop building, your air conditioning won't run long enough to do an effective job at removing enough humidity from the building.

[@kreigk4468]

I think I'm addicted to seeing this shop get completed. Look every few days for new updates just to see what more has been done. lol

[@LykinsConnection]

You may want to think about a fan to help circulate the air from the mini split. I have one ceiling mounted in my garage right in the middle (mini-split is wall mounted on one side) and it makes a huge difference in getting the temperature even across the garage. I live in Cincy so if you need any help with it, I'm happy to come help. I have a lot of experience with data runs, network closets, etc.

[@camaromike82]

Did you add a water line and power for a wall mounted pressure washer? Something worth considering! Also wire for outdoor entertainment... speakers, cat6 (x2), etc.

[@VastCNC]

One of the coolest shop infrastructure I’ve seen is Sheldon at BarZ using a large steel box tube as a giant compressed air access manifold and auxiliary tank. Can’t recall if it was also structural, but it was pretty epic.

[@armsaaro]

So i know you'll have that attic lift, but I can't help but think a great over the top addition would be a rail system for the bottom floor. Would likely need to reinforce joists ahead of time, but some sort of heavy duty rail system that you could pick up something incredibly heavy even such a table saw or just huge project and move it somewhere else. I know you're not going to be moving your table saw but my point is something super heavy and if you end up having to move something heavy, even trying to get it on a dolly would be extremely difficult.

[@davidmoore3049]

Where do you plan on mounting the compressor? Looks to me that it is in the attic area of the shop. If so you will regret the constant booming noise the compressor will make when running . Make a separate outdoor room on the cool North side of the building with cooling vents . Or an insulated room on the concrete floor inside. Mounting a compressor on wood framing always results in noise transmission.

[@richs5422]

When my new jointer came in, I needed a hoist system to lift the table out of a box and onto the base. Might want to plan for this kind of thing, as the ability to lift a machine is really nice to have and not terribly expensive.

[@vincevanderbijl2203]

Don't forget to insulate any piping that goes through the attic space that transfers warm air through a cold space (or vise versa ) otherwise condensation will form ..... leading to mold

[@YouTubestopsharingmyrealname]

Speakers, I have worked on that one before. For sterio, 2 speakers per every 100sqft for ceiling between 8-12 ft high. If you're working with higer ceiling s, same number but you'll want higher impedance speakers and a more powerful amplifier, so go to a 250 watt amp from 100 watt.

[@josephs2581]

if that's the raxial fan, don't! step up one tier, it makes a huge difference. tried to use a raxial 4" for a bathroom fan and it failed miserably. went to the cloudline and it was actually just right, and not too noisy. they are bigger but not by much. good on ya for ventilating!

[@steveferguson1232]

You may want to consider water drop at each air connect fitting. This is a length of line straight down below air quick connect with small ball valve to empty line periodically. Don’t know how your humidity is there. Would help alot

[@mccbuddytaras6637]

add an expansion tank to your air system. always nice to have more than you need.

[@dawnmitchell8213]

The effects of OCD in the trades makes for beautiful work even though the majority of the work will never be seen. It’s very satisfying to watch it being installed. I fired an electrician mid job one time because his work was so incredibly sloppy. I learned how to do it myself so I could do it to code and have it look neat and tidy even though the work would be covered. I like knowing what is behind the walls of my house and knowing what is there is done correctly and neatly.

[@johnlanford9889]

Great video, as always. Add switched outlets and supports for big ass fans on the ceiling.

[@TheSharkShed]

Nice job! Planning ahead is the key to a great shop! This is going to be an epic shop!

[@jhirn2957]

Love the build. Have you considered ceiling tiles to keep things open? They make really nice sound dampening acoustic ones which might help with sound and allow access if you need to run something later on.

[@gregj2647]

If you’re planning to build a paint booth, you need an exhaust fan rated to do so. Explosion proof is a must for things like lacquer

[@tigertony1958]

Adding hot water is a smart move but instead of the small tank type water heater, I highly recommend a small on-demand water heater instead. The tank type heater will have to constantly reheat while the on-demand heater will only operate while you're actually using hot water, plus it will supply that hot water for as long as you wish to use it, unlike that small tank. I installed a 240V 6.5KW that I picked up off Amazon for about $90 and it's perfect for the job.

[@dmwi1549]

This is one nice shop and you have thought of so many items to future proof. The accessible attic will help with anything you need to add in the future. I’ll bet you look forward to the day you can “commute” to work and create content while still being accessible to your family. Well done.

[@ChrisNoland1]

things to add: Wall mount TV (Power, ethernet, coax), Surround sound for TV... seems silly but a fun add, also think of the next owner. Do you have a fiber run the the house to share internet? Otherwise run an under eve ethernet so you can do a point to point microwave link to the house. Under eve Plug for holiday lights (shop is big enough to decorate) .

[@Greybeardmedic]

Excellent, this is my new reference for when I redo my garage workshop!

[@mikegrok]

My dad put the dust collection pipes for his chop saw, table saw, and joiner in his concrete slab. Unfortunately he thought, 4 inches is good, 6 inches is better. But 6 inches didn't provide enough air velocity to keep them swept clean, so the debris slowly builds up increasing pressure line loss until he has to break out a leaf blower in a push pull arrangement to sweep up the debris, and clean it out by the handful.

[@ShopNation]

One of the reasons I didn't do my runs in the slab. I also didn't want to commit to a location!

[@mikedelaney253]

You should add an air outlet outside next to the garage door. Would be great for little stuff like tires toys etc.

[@thegrumpytexan]

Love your shop! My only suggestion is to move your air compressor to an external building and run pipe to it so you don't have the noise. My 1200sf shop is plumbed with similar stuff (air line rated specialty plastic pipe with the same outlets) but I have a 2" PVC pipe that runs underground to my new barn next to the shop where my compressor is. The 2" pipe carries compressed air, 240v run for the compressor (and lights) and ethernet (for cameras and wifi accessories like battery minders on my tractor and mowers.) I can just barely hear my compressor when running. For yours, maybe consider a small outbuilding for your compressor.

[@sarinhighwind]

that bigger air line to smaller will help you with volume drop off in long lines. When an airline gets to long, it essentially cannot provide the volume quick enough even when you have pressure. We usually elivaiate this in some circumstances with a remote tank to keep the pressure vessel close to the tool. So this was actually a good idea with the amount of line you put up.

[@spriteboost]

Add a pvc for wiring with some string in it if you ever have to run cabling think it was mentioned before though. Awesome shop I'm sure it'll be awesome to work in when finished :)

[@markcvitkovich2983]

I always run 1"-2" conduit from the electrical panel to every floor or area and leave it empty . The things that will change the most over time are communication and electrical needs. It's easy and cheap to do now but invasive later when you need CAT 9 or HDMI 5 to the other end . I'd run it the same as the lines . Go up then drop down the wall at various spots . My buddy used central vac plates at the end.

[@davidstjames_]

There are a couple of problems here that people should be aware of. @10:22 He's talking about an exhaust system, which is great to have, and some very mild fumes shouldn't be a problem, but don't ever do something like this thinking that it can be used as any part of any spray booth! This is extremely dangerous and you could be injured or dead and burn your house down. When exhausting fumes, you MUST use an explosion proof fan. If not, the fan can ignite the fumes and it can travel back to where you are and create an explosion. Another problem here that isn't necessarily dangerous, but part of it could be, is the compressed air system. When the compressor is put away in an enclosed area such as this attic here, you need an auto drain with a drain line. He mentioned the drain line and said that it would hardly ever be used. This is completely wrong, it's critical that the auto drain is working regularly otherwise if it's not draining properly, you can get corrosion inside which is one of the main reasons for tank failures (look up compressor failures on KZbin). If that tank explodes, you don't want it next to you, in the attic here, it's much safer than down at floor level, but not as good as being outside (in a separate enclosure if needed).

[@ShopNation]

Excellent points! Yes if I do in fact use it for a paint booth (not super likely) I will absolutely need to look at a fan rated to do so

[@scottstanley3699]

Add a limit switch to the garage door, that way lights come on when the door opens an inch. Also can wire into an outside light you can mount where you can see it if you can't see the garage door from your house. That way if it's open at night you will know.

[@idontthinkso666]

Totally agree with JackAlope on the ceiling-mounted retractable extension cords. I have one over my assembly table and I use it more than any other outlet in my shop. Put one of these over EVERY place you foresee a bench or tool in the middle of the shop. And if that's your tablesaw, make it 240v..

[@bruceanderson9461]

You will be dealing with water in your air lines. All drops should come off the top of the loop. You will need a desiccant drier or an air line dehumidifier at the compressor. If you get into metal work a bead blaster is important and yes you need three phase capability. Many ways to get it but I added phase perfect to my shop which is a digital phase converter.

[@ThompsonsWorkshop]

Looks well thought out. I do recommend adding a fume extractor in your main shop area. Will come in handy when working with some finishes or extracting smoke from welding, or laser engraving.

[@glycerine3065]

This will be one of the most purpose-built, sexy workshop I've even seen! Tremendous project!

[@barix9495]

I like the Mr.Cool mini split. I installed one in my 1000ft shop and I've never been happier. Side note - you can do it "yourself" but for the love of god ask a friend to help lol.

[@jamesgraham1701]

I would add blocking upstairs where the wall meets the floor. Makes it easier to screw the drywall and baseboards. Keeps the drywall from being wavy

[@dl_97201]

For your speaker wire, make sure the runs are within 12 inches variance from longest to shortest even if it means coiling spare wire in the ceiling or near the speaker. Sound and electricity travel at the speed of light and though you wouldn't think variance over short runs wouldn't make a difference, even a couple milliseconds will make it sound wrong. For your ethernet runs and server closet, make sure there are at least 2 vents to the closet or a direct vent for HVAC plus a vent in to the shop to prevent heat build up which will prematurely kill any equipment stored in there. Also make sure to add at least 120% more drops than you have on your switch. You may not ever use them all, but if you need them it is best to have them now before you put up the walls. Also USE A PATCH PANEL - Do NOT terminate your Cat6 runs in an RJ45 jack, terminate it to a patch panel then use short wires to loop the patch panel to your switch. This will prevent tension and wear on the runs.

[@hobbybuilt]

Great videos as always! Thanks for sharing

[@tomjudkins3799]

Think about your exterior lighting and consider security lights even in areas you might not think you need them. Add an outlet near your gable for bistro lights around the pool, christmas lights etc.

[@philbarrettjr1687]

I use cat 5 cables for garage door sensors and opener . Plan for future . Also add an outlet on opposite ends , outside behind fascia boards . For holiday lites or powered speakers ? Awesome build

[@robertkrueger3902]

I can't wait to see the final tally on this ultimate shop build.

[@DimONMINIpeople]

How about an air outlet for the outside? Pump up tires, pool floating devices, metal plasma cutter, etc.

[@mikegrok]

Add a branch to the water manifold up in the attic with a ball valve and an air fitting. Both are NPT (national pipe thread). When winter comes, you want to be able to blow air down your lines to keep them from freezing. While you can do that from the end of a run, water can still collect in pockets. It is easier if you can add the air from the top. For that front, make sure you have the styrofoam frost cans for your water spigots. Last year they were $6 from lowes. First frost of the year that will hit most of the US down to the gulf coast is November 30.

[@ShaneShepherd]

I'm surprised you didn't have a utility sink in the shop(not, in the bathroom). That would be so easy to use and helpful if you need to clean parts/work on the occasional vehicle/mechanical/outdoor tool cleanup/etc stuff.

[@ShopNation]

Yup I have a spare stub out for a drain for just this reason

[@BirchwoodBldrs]

Question with regard to HVAC: It seems that the air filters will very quickly become blocked with dust. As an example, when I was building houses and running the system the filters were constantly getting clogged. It fact, sometime the filters would slow down the air enough that the air exchanger would actually freeze up because the exchanger got too cold because the air flow was so little air flow. Perhaps not a problem with a good dust collection system? Your thoughts?