Should You Do A Brake Booster Delete

Just touching up on a question i get often on if people should do a brake booster delete, if i like mine, how it feels and so on.
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[@AnAlternitivePerspective]

would not reccomend deleting your brake booster if you live anywere with heavy traffic, buddy just totaled his 90 si just couldnt stop in time.

[@speedbuggy16v]

nothing wrong with a booster delete if you change the master, or the linkage ratio to compensate for it especially in modern cars with disk brakes as long as you dont forget leg day!

[@David-nb2bc]

@@speedbuggy16v On Wilwood site, you can find formula on how to calculate to get the correct master cylinder bore size to fix your needs. On Honda, your best bet is 7/8" bore size with the correct link relocation as you mention. Also, this is very important as the type of brake pads you need to use. Usually you need high initial bite pads like Hawk DTC 60 or 70 but those are road race pads that require the pads to be in high temp to get that initial bite. On the streets, you will not be able to get up to that required temps for those pads to work properly. That's why Hawk listed for track/road race only. Also, people do booster delete is for threshold braking where you can modulate the brakes. All of this is NOT for street use. Therefore, highly recommend to NOT delete for street use.

[@speedbuggy16v]

@@David-nb2bc I am with you on all of this, not a honda guy, but all the math works the same. I will be deleting the booster on my E30 for the LS swap, while I may have increased pedal pressure its OK, I grew up in farm country where the tractors and most of the trucks had NO brake assist. LOL. Besides it gives better feel when your modulating the brakes.

[@user-tb7rn1il3q]

The booster does not reduce braking distance, but more force on the brake pedal is required.

[@notone4029]

Mr. sadowski, thanks for this very video. Did a complete shave and tuck and paint on my EG hatch for boosted K swap. But wanted to do booster delete. No vids or reviews on YT till yours Now.

[@johnmcmahonburke5067]

Informative review. Appreciate it.

[@toki89666]

Thank you for this very informative video Chris. I'd been wondering about a BBD for awhile. Also because of your channel DAs are starting to grow on me.

[@ChrisSadowski]

Dylan White that’s what I like to hear! Haha. Yeah it’s so hard to explain how the delete is without just having someone drive the car, but DA’s are awesome little cars, they do tend to grow on ya after awhile

[@juliusjones8285]

Great video man. Shifter is sick too.

[@ChrisSadowski]

Thanks man!

[@mountainsols8450]

I've been thinking about the delete but right now it's my daily so not yet😂 nice vid dude

[@ChrisSadowski]

Yeah I would wait till it’s not your daily for sure haha

[@LAV1320]

Thanks for this!! I was wondering about deleting mine.. 👌🏼🤙🏼

[@jimmylee8459]

Thanks for being honest

[@imsgoalie1]

I'd be willing to bet that the cylinder you used was 13/16ths (not 13/15ths). And the stiffer pedal is the whole point, it makes brake pressure easier to modulate for trail braking etc. For any car with ABS, I wouldn't bother doing this, just brake as hard as you want and let the ABS save you if you're locking it up. For a race car that is going to be breaking into corners and doesn't have ABS, it does give a nice bump in ease of modulation.

[@adiposeadventures.975]

That and also with the csl airbox and s54 in my e30 there is no space for the brake booster lol

[@kirbstone111]

Thanks 4 the review

[@fearsum5633]

Love the vids

[@mitchellsavage313]

Been thinkin about the delete so we will see wat u have to say after the vid

[@cordellsmith1523]

Just a suggestion, but you can change the pedal ratio (where the brake cylinder rod meets the pedal) and that should make it easier to heel toe. I know the Chase Bays delete has that built in to it.

[@ChrisSadowski]

I long ago got rid of the booster delete. Decided it was much too unsafe for a street car with the delayed response and extra effort required to use it.

[@themagicity09]

i guess you can do a brake tuck line if you looking for a daily car

[@camron8418]

i love the brake booster delete i did on my c10

[@TecnoCarTijuana]

Every daily driver should play the astronomia song with the african's dancing with a coffin

[@justinschaeffer6269]

yes exactly

[@SeanRadiant]

great video

[@MrPlasto1211]

Yes

[@LeViIain]

When you are left-foot braking and applying throttle at the same time, you lose the vacuum effect and the brake pedal becomes harder to press. This will slightly unbalance the car and won't feel super smooth. So actually, going back to a brake booster so that you can left-foot brake in canyons isn't the ideal solution, if you want maximum precision. But the goal is to have fun so do whatever you prefer.

[@vonapparatus]

Lmk if you’d like to upgrade your brake system and save space. There’s a method that isn’t being utilized within the Subaru community! I’ll make a video but lmk by showing some love lmao...I’m building a usd Subaru Legacy gt with an ej20r but haven’t made videos yet. If you guys know ej20r is nearly impossible to swap into a LHD legacy due to space.

[@kris1.8x]

My friend deleted his and he gets a good little leg workout every now and then

[@FluxHitsBills]

okay so my brake booster is basically dead hahaha it brakes like that right now i love it

[@justinschaeffer6269]

there nice to have

[@nephron9924]

Since the del sol is so easy to lock the brakes on what do you think about doing a delete on it?

[@ChrisSadowski]

No I don’t plan on deleting it on the del sol, I have cheap pads on it that don’t stop the best, which makes me press the brakes harder, faster then they lock. so I’ll just change to better pads and that should help me not lock up

[@toysforboysrc]

Yea I wish there was “something” that we could use to adjust the brake sensitivity like a vacuum dial or an AM adjustable pedal linkage for ease of leverage when stopping. Having just the master cylinder alone is a lot of work even if it’s a chase bay I would know. I should put out a vid of it on my autobody Chanel bcs the entire brake system has been upgraded, all but the stock calipers front new rear old but even with lines and pads it took a very very long time for the new rotors to properly brake in and have better stopping power. I’m just wandering how much better it will be with performance calipers and pads.

[@ChrisSadowski]

Won’t be much different. The difference in a “performance” caliper/pad setup is primarily cooling abilities and pad compound. The pad compound will determine how good hot/cold bite is, how much heat they can take before glazing, etc. The caliper difference will allow for a more consistent brake feel based off its design/number of pistons resulting it more even use across the rotor surface (as compared to one big piston pushing the center of a pad, you’ll have 2-3 pistons evenly applying pressure across it) The lack of a booster or vacuum/power assisted brakes is gonna have more or less the same result across the board. It’s just gonna take a lot more effort overall

[@toysforboysrc]

@@ChrisSadowski …. …. Been working on a K swap to an 98 Integra. Bought it half way done but previous owner was doing all the right things with all the right name brand parts and what’s popular on the market for these k swaps. Single piston chase bay master cylinder & hard lines but what I think I’m facing is rear brake power. I have the brake biased dial to get the most out the rear but even though this car is my daily, the rear rotors do not get the shiny surface unless I’m pulling on the E brake with or without pressing the pedal. Even though the rears only bite like 25% they are not cleaning the rotor so they might be under performing. Fluid was dirty, I did drain the old fluid when bleeding and topping off but the rear calipers might be binding bcs they work but not well. I hope it has nothing to do with the delete and hard line install which has been reliable thus far. Are you on any forums? You sound like an interesting person.

[@ChrisSadowski]

I don’t do forums. I just do KZbin, and instagram

[@notone4029]

Chris you didn’t leave hush link for delete. Also on their site the delete plate requires a Wilwood aftermarket brake master cylinder. Your car looks like you just used oem Honda brake master cylinder?? Link please thanks

[@ChrisSadowski]

You can use your stock master, if you found the website then you don’t need the link lol, but I’ll add it in the description

[@notone4029]

Chris, thanks for the link. The one I found the plate was for a Wilwood brake master cylinder NOT oem Honda like you have. So you were much help.👌🏻

[@Rsxnation0]

B20v the del sol 👌👌

[@ChrisSadowski]

bryan coronel I planned on it, hopefully in the next couple months when it cools down and I can source out a hydro trans

[@carlosdlc2013]

I wana do this to my 91 civic hatch. EF. Where can I get a kit for it?

[@ChrisSadowski]

From hush performance or honed development

[@CATownsend777]

What does that plate cost?

[@damienhayes7353]

If you thought your booster was bad would you buy a new booster or a delete if it was a weekend car?

[@ChrisSadowski]

I would buy a new booster. Only reason I would go boosterless is if it was a dedicated show car and it was to give the tuck look

[@justinschaeffer6269]

hey bro I might have an extra set of hood dmpers laying around for da integra I'll look for em u pay shipping and u can have em

[@ChrisSadowski]

What do you mean by hood dampers, like the shock things?

[@jawaone2474]

Made me feel like a jackass for asking a simple question the other day but here’s the information I was asking about just in case anyone else wants to know. The brake booster (4 bolts) inside cabin need to be tightened down to (9 ft lbs). And the two bolts that hold on the master cylinder need to be tightened to (30 ft lbs) if you decide NOT to delete! ✌️

[@ChrisSadowski]

Wrist tight and elbow tight 😀

[@eludethis]

The brake booster multiplies the force you apply to the pedal with your foot by 4. So 100 lbs of force from your foot would equal 400 lbs. Without a booster you’d need considerably more force on the pedal to stop the car. Image you’re at the top of a hill and you roll down in neutral with the engine off. Press on the brake pedal and you’ll soon see why boosters were invented. Of course no one would actually be ignorant enough to do that lol. If it’s a track car then manual brakes are the better way to go. But would not recommend for street car where you may need to do emergency stops.

[@ChrisSadowski]

Well put. This is what i try to tell people when they ask me about it on social media. It’s not worth it on a street car, especially when your street car has 500whp and is a tin can. Don’t sacrifice brakes for looks

[@reggiedavis5092]

When are you a going to do a swap to the del sol

[@ChrisSadowski]

When it stops being 105+ in Arizona so I can drive the integra to work without dying. And I still need a hydro tranny. But hopefully within the next like 2-3 months. I’m not in a big rush since I have more planned with the integra still

[@jeff666p]

If you cap off the booster will it feel the same as if it was deleted?

[@ChrisSadowski]

Yes

[@jeff666p]

​@@ChrisSadowskiJust realized you mention this in the video already. I was researching and it said that you have to adjust the pedal ratio if you get rid of the booster to have proper pedal feel. The pedal was way too heavy with the stock 4:1 ratio.

[@tongl274]

Brake booster delete is for a car that doesn't move aka show car. Don't be street racing without a brake booster, your shit will stop when you crash.

[@ChrisSadowski]

I agree to an extent. It’s not that the delete makes braking worse, just makes it more demanding, with a proper MC, pad and rotor setup you can still brake extremely efficiently. But it’s just more firm. But I still don’t recommend it for daily drivers

[@ress87]

You need to go to the gym if you can't lock up a proper non-booster brake system

[@tongl274]

ress87 lol

[@arealmaintenanceandrepairl1103]

best bet would be a hydro boost set up uses power steering pressure to assist your brakes no booster needed

[@ChrisSadowski]

That’s not a bad idea. Although this car does not have hydraulic assisted PS. At the moment and time of filming this video it was depowered rack, and I’m currently buying parts to convert it to full EPS

[@arealmaintenanceandrepairl1103]

@@ChrisSadowski nice I’m trying to get hydro system for my truck put a cam and lost vacuum so the 2500 of my truck have hydro powered brakes no more vac booste r

[@kracksmith4ejm1]

can you still lock your brakes with that booster delete?

[@ChrisSadowski]

Yeah. Just gotta stomp in it. I’ve done it a few times emergency braking. Not fun. Very scary

[@TecnoCarTijuana]

Yes, you need 2 or 3 peoples pushing that pedal and then you see the african's dancing with the coffin and a bright light at the end of a tunnel

[@joracer1]

Reduce you mc piston size to get more travel and more power.

[@gayanthaharshana1788]

Mate you look like luka modric 😯😯😯😯

[@ChrisSadowski]

So I’ve been told 😆

[@goodafternoonworld4456]

My cars brake booster is currently garbage aka not working. Is it ok if I can drive without it ?

[@ChrisSadowski]

Yeah you just gotta get used to the braking force without it. Just takes a few days

[@goodafternoonworld4456]

@@ChrisSadowski oh, okay thanks I thought I wasn't going to be able to drive for a while, thanks for the response

[@ChrisSadowski]

Yeah just block off the vacuum port on the manifold and the booster for now. Brakes work the same just require you to use more physical force to get the same braking. Do a bit of practice on a side street or something for a few minutes to get the feel of it

[@goodafternoonworld4456]

@@ChrisSadowski i don't think I can do that to my cars booster because there isn't a big enough bolt, I have a 1986 firebird trans am

[@mikehonaker]

can you do this on a 94 to 97 integra?

[@ChrisSadowski]

You can do it on any vehicle

[@MrSiDeWaYs240]

😎👍

[@freedom-sf4no]

left foot braking is a most to learn if you delete the booster... rally cars

[@ChrisSadowski]

I’ve been toying with it for awhile. Can heel-toe all day but left foot is so strange to me

[@freedom-sf4no]

@@ChrisSadowski it takes time to get it... thanks for the reply... i will sub to your channel...

[@ChrisSadowski]

Appreciate man!

[@tyleruhlenberg8074]

good old estabrook

[@novaorbitdragon]

If you want to see how it feels without power brakes, just disconnect the brake booster.

[@ress87]

That's a good way to find out why your plan on using your stock master cylinder is a bad idea. Most people doing this will replace the MC with one that's designed for the purpose (many times in combination with a ABS delete). That's a very different story and not anything like disconnecting your brake booster. I think the booster is a great feature on a daily but there is a reason why no race cars use boosters. Better pedal feel, firmer pedal (you can "brace" against the pedal while braking), better consistency (a brake booster will run out of vacuum), etc.

[@novaorbitdragon]

@@ress87 doesn't the aftermarket ones have a bigger bore?

[@ress87]

@@novaorbitdragon Nope, smaller

[@B18C5EH2]

@@ress87 actually most of the people doing this literally do it for looks, nothing more.

[@nfsdude0125]

@@B18C5EH2 hahahahhahahahahha no mate.

[@jimhiscott2918]

I owned 3 510's. They were never sold with a booster. Never. I never hit anything with any of my 510's. You don't need a booster

[@waltervmgarage1614]

What size master cylinder?

[@32ent70]

Yea there shit mines coming out tomorrow

[@edwinorozco3732]

What master are you using ?

[@ChrisSadowski]

At this time it was a crx HF master I think

[@edwinorozco3732]

​@@ChrisSadowski damn i got it thinking it was supposed to fit the stock da9 master

[@ChrisSadowski]

It does fit the stock DA master. I switched to the crx master because it was smaller so it was less effort to get the pedal to work

[@anthonysalinas6195]

So would getting braided brake lines almost feel the same as a brake booster delete?

[@ChrisSadowski]

No, a brake booster delete is what makes the brakes feel stiff. The lines are just replacing lines

[@anthonysalinas6195]

@@ChrisSadowski okay, thank you. Probably not going to do a brake booster delete because of what you said in your video about doing it to a daily. Good video though

[@speedbuggy16v]

OUCH, that poor lens.....

[@ChrisSadowski]

Long sense replaced 👍🏼

[@seantan4426]

Why not do an engine delete info video dude, would be fun to push your car on the track to FEEL that weightiness, you will get used to it.....

[@ChrisSadowski]

English?

[@seantan4426]

@@ChrisSadowski oh si, maniquí

[@David-nb2bc]

WTF you are talking about????

[@kekistani5753]

unfunny

[@TecnoCarTijuana]

You need 2 or 3 peoples pushing that pedal, and then you see the african's dancing with the coffin and a bright light at the end of a tunnel

[@ChrisSadowski]

It’s not that bad haha

[@FirstLast-tx3yj]

@@ChrisSadowski what i would recommend is moving the connection point on the brake pedal higher toward the axis of rotation of the pedal. On my e36 I moved it half the distance and it made it much easier. All it took is a new hole and connecting it.

[@popanollie1]

Don't throw the lense out, try wet Sanding it with 800 to 2000 grit. As if it was the clear coat on a car. And yes brake booster delete

[@ChrisSadowski]

popanollie1 I was just gonna save the lense for skating mostly. I spent too much on it to throw it away lol

[@tonyrivera858]

Bootleg tfue

[@AmericanMuscleCarsR]

Immediately stopped watching this video because of the rice burner .

[@ChrisSadowski]

Your mom didn’t seem to mind it

[@alexparrott6558]

Lol ur not a real car guy if u cant enjoy anything wit an engine PERIOD....u need to open up ur eyes a lil bro tgeres more to cars than jus v8 "muscle"

[@alexparrott6558]

Like until the new 5.0 mustang came out hondas/many imports would SMOKE full bolt on mustangs ALL DAY!! So open ur eyes bro

[@AmericanMuscleCarsR]

@@alexparrott6558 stfu