SHOULD YOU RUN YOUR JUNKYARD 5.3L LS HOTTER OR COLDER FOR MAXIMUM POWER? 116 DEGREES VS 180 DEGREES!

[@MrAPCProductions]

The amount of respect for literally just testing theories and showing the data. Great work as always, Richard.

[@lawmaxtrailer]

💯

[@jasonlassetter7054]

Your enthusiasm and energy are awesome! Your videos are always informative and entertaining. Thank you, Richard!

[@richardholdener1727]

THNX

[@KyNoPrep]

It’s about time he starts busting old theories of power. Just like the indexed plugs. Keep it up homie!

[@michaelwhite7568]

I love the quality of research you're doing here. Thanks for sharing your data!

[@bryanphipps9131]

Mr. Holdner is defenetly a father, only a dad knows the engine sounds.! Merry Christmas.

[@minigpracing3068]

Would have been interesting to put a 3 gas meter on the exhaust and see if the emissions were different. Means nothing for horsepower, but would have been interesting to log.

[@hydrocarbon82]

I'm glad you pointed out the "hot oil" bit. Most people slap on oil coolers and cool as much as they can. Meanwhile most OEM coolers are coolant heat exhangers, so they warm it up faster and keep it around 190-210F. The LS OEM cooler use tiny thermostats to bypass when cold.

[@Autofaze]

Love this! We all knew colder temps made more power but seeing dyno results and data to see the numbers is a rad video 💯

[@michaely6665]

is it too simplified to say its actually the intake air temperature (density) effecting the power. The intake manifolding heats up the air fuel mix around to thermostat engine temperature. Its like a cold air box on car makes power over a fancy pod filter in hot engine bay.

[@lucascurd9983]

Most common Thermostat is 180 degrees then 190-195 then 160 according to the summit catalog. I remember being told 160 was a “performance upgrade” that would allow cooler charge temperatures in the intake manifold and water jackets near of the cylinder head intake runners. However OEM’s preferred running hotter water temps to aid in ignition of the fuel in the cylinder’s emitting less emissions via unburnt fuel. Gasoline being a blend of many different chemicals with different boiling points I question the reliability of that assertion. Hence the need for egr, catalytic devices etc. Maybe they just want good heater temps in Detroit?

[@johndelta00]

Having lived in metro detroit for 8 years, yes, a good heater is more important than peak power.

[@triplestangman]

@@johndelta00 ignition pressure and heat far exceeds the boiling limits of any fuel or additive, the trick is getting the burn hot enough to eat up carbon monoxide but not so hot it produces nitrates. Water temp affects how much heat is pulled away during power cycle.

[@britdragster]

I love that you're just like a big kid playing with his toys. As they say, if you love getting up every morning to go to work, it's not really work as it's something you love doing.

[@richardholdener1727]

I DIG DYNO

[@averyalexander2303]

Great test as always! For actual use, running an engine much colder than the stock temperature is a bad idea since the most wear happens when the engine is cold, especially under a heavy load. The oil also needs to regularly warm up to at least about 180 degrees to boil off the fuel and moisture that naturally ends up in the oil and for the oil's additive package to work at its best. Fuel efficiency will also suffer due to poor fuel atomization at low temperatures and the colder, thicker oil creating more drag.

[@DarkLinkAD]

These issues you mention are often dramatized. My Impala for example ran 160f in city and 140f on the highway, my fuel economy was easily 36mpg highway, my o2 sensor would only slack at warmup during the coldest days of NY weather, on a 200k mile vehicle(-10 to -20F). Underhood temps were way down, I suffered none of the head gasket or transmission issues people speak of and managed 275k miles on the car before my wife wrecked it during a blizzard. Other things I noticed, my OEM plugs were still good at 275k,my oem serpentine belt was still good at 275k, my oem alternator and all my underhood rubber vaccum hoses and AC compressor and seals were still in like new condition, stock everything including electric fans that most people have replaced by 220k,. I killed only 1 battery during its life and that was due to abuse of listening to talk radio while the engine wasnt running. Oh yeah, the powersteering pump, never needed a topup and the never whined. If your wondering, I bought this car at 60k miles and never changed the tranny fluid or filter and allowed a 10min warmup every morning, which I think also contributed to the 4t60 lasting as well as it did ( before the crash and total of this vehicle) Oh yeah, no codes and as mentioned before, only a o2 sensor in que on -10 to -25f days, due to the sensor not warming up fast enough. Code went away after a couple drive cycles.

[@silentbravo]

So you pretty much want to keep your tow rig running as cool as possible because all of your most useful power band is going to be from idle to 3500RPM on most LS. Would have definitely been nice to see this expanded to about 220F because that's much closer to usual operating temp than 180F. Thanks for test

[@pauljohnson7may]

Thorough testing again as usual. I would keep an engine hot enough to boil off moisture in crankcase as if mixed with blow by gasses it causes corrosion/sludge which is the reason for regular oil changes. Compromise is the answer I think.

[@EricErnst]

I like when the results are different that I expected. I thought the difference would be way more than 3hp on the top end. It makes sense when you look at it though. The increased airspeed means the charge air doesn't have time to absorb any of the extra heat from the hotter intake or heads.

[@zacharymorris9917]

That's not the way it works in the real world. The practical value of lower coolant temps on a pump fuel, street driven, knock limited vehicle are not measurable on a dyno. Ironically, people call dyno testing ”the real world".

[@EricErnst]

@@zacharymorris9917 he didn't change the tune or add spark advance to the cold coolant engine. This example is not knock limited. Ask him to do a test on a knock limited engine. How about a tiny cam, 15:1 iron headed BBC on 87 @ 240⁰f. My observations are correct. The airspeed increases at higher rpms and the charge doesn't absorb as much heat from the hot cylinder head intake runner. The air spends less time in the head so the higher temp head doesn't have time to heat it up and expand it. Real world has a fan drawing air across a hot radiator. It has headers radiating heat throughout the engine bay. Sun beating down on the hood. Hot brakes. Hot pavement. But cruising on the interstate is different from sitting in traffic. Which is more "real world"?

[@zacharymorris9917]

@@EricErnst you don't realize that you're making my point for me.

[@zacharymorris9917]

@@EricErnst you should try focusing on reading for comprehension instead of reading for confirmation bias.

[@ChroniclesofKToyoda]

I like that you said you tried tuning ECU to optimize the potential of the changes made

[@ChurchAutoTest]

I think the big issue here is the impact of coolant temp on the actual charge temp as it enters the cylinder. We know that there is a difference between where we measure air temp on most engines and the charge temp at the valve (or in the chamber for DI engines). One could theorize that the slower moving air at low rpms/lower power has more dwell time on the hot cylinder head surfaces, which is why you lose more power with high coolant temps at low rpm than at high rpm. I would suggest that over the course of a dyno run we would probably see the temperature of the intake port walls cool substantially as we progress from low rpm to high rpm. A number of ECUs do provide the capability of using a mix of air temp and coolant temp for calculating charge air density, changing the bias with rpm.

[@Rrottweiler]

I think air moves too fast, that head intake runner temp would affect it. I think its more about combustion chamber temp. Thats why it affects low rpm more than high rpm. Head and water cant move heat away fast enough at high rpm. This happend in Engine Masters? test, where they heated intake hot, cooled it etc and no affect on IAT or power. Biggest change in power was when they used icewater to cool fuel.

[@richardholdener1727]

THE AIR HAT MIGHT SHED SOME LIGHT

[@ChurchAutoTest]

@@Rrottweiler But was the engine masters test on a carb'd or FI engine? Carb'd engines naturally cool the intake manifold and ports with fuel. Fuel injected engines only cool the intake ports (unless you're running shower head injectors at the runner mouths) and they can't do much at typical port injection pressures. Plus combustion chamber wall temps compared to compressed mixture temp is probably a relatively small difference due to thermodynamic heating during compression stroke. Would definitely like to know more, that's for sure.

[@spikymikie]

Thanks Richard. Good info. Always known colder air in the intake was good. Sounds like a dry sump with an oil heater, and an inter-cooler hooked up to the A/C system would be the ideal situ.

[@RiversideRacecraft]

Filled block with ice water in dry deck heads to the front ❤

[@orangetruckman]

Great information and entertainment…priceless!

[@johnpublic168]

we had a thermostat on oil and engine coolant. but never tried to run engine that cool.

[@GregoryBrettin]

Keep up the great videos man. Helps with making informed decisions!

[@jjohnson8867]

Ok, great data we get to benefit from as usual. What were the iat temps tho? How about doing a similar test with that change. I have learned so much much minutia from you and am appreciative you test what many of us wonder.

[@D2O2]

Oil cooler/heater, or select a multi weight oil that gives you the desired viscosity. We have already seen lower viscosity oil yield higher net power.

[@hondatech5000]

Made more than I thought. Cold water, hot oil, hot turbo, cold air

[@Sleeperdude]

I would love to see this test to go up to like 240

[@408CIDZ]

Me too! It is a great vid but I would have really liked to see what happened to power as we walked through 190, 200, 210, etc... Through 240. When stock my gen 1 CTS-V turned the fans on at 235 and it made me wary watching it run that hot. I know its better for emissions but being a long time SBC guy it just seemed excessive and the old SBC's always ran better at 160-180 in my experience. I was usually cussing at my electric fan when I would see.220 on the guage, lol!

[@DarkLinkAD]

@@408CIDZ Sounds like that thermostat needs a little glory.

[@michaelstrafello7346]

What I read about temp was at 200 degrees metel is it's strongest keeping wear down

[@unclebobsgarage9136]

Great work and Thought adjustments are in order. LOL

[@TEAMWRIGHTEOUS]

Great info. Really surprising how little car engines are affected by engine temp. A motorcycle engine will fall on it's face if you try to fire it up and go straight to the waterbox, then make a hit... Engine coolant temp doesn't really affect our numbers on the dyno so much, but heat soaking the engine and the tire getting hot and gooey will definitely change the numbers. And 2-3hp difference on these bikes is a big difference.

[@scotthultin7769]

Thank you for sharing Merry Christmas to one and all

[@cc23001]

Hot oil and cool coolant sounds like my '00 5.3 truck in the winter.. it does love the snow lol

[@melissamalone1530]

Absolutely love your videos/ testing Richard. North Maine Steve From Millinocket, Me. MERRY CHRISTMAS. RICHARD AND FAMILY

[@richardholdener1727]

AND TO YOU AND YOURS

[@supernova5end]

Interchiller for the antifreeze is one way to do it.

[@HioSSilver1999]

Good test....could some of the losses be offset with 4 corner cooling? Especially downlow for towing applications

[@navaho5430]

Richard i think the heat is getting to you, time for a brake, happy Christmas and new year cheers.

[@richardholdener1727]

OR ALL THOSE FROSTY COLD BEVERAGES!

[@Fazz73jr]

Id like to see this test on the gen2 lt1. As a lt1 owner i always herd that because of the reverse cooling they make more power ran cool

[@Optimus_leo]

A experiment with no thermostat with the engine running really cool ice water with some kind of electric heater sink in the oil pan to get it up to temp now that would be a fun experiment to do 😎👍

[@madmodsgarage1179]

So many runs! Between the dyno and console room.... love it! Whoooaaaaaa!! ;)

[@richardholdener1727]

almost missed a shift

[@madmodsgarage1179]

@@richardholdener1727 😅

[@remybrouwer8700]

My experience is that if you run the engine cold you will ware the cylinders out a lot faster, as the pistons are much expanded and the cylinders not

[@olveramelinda]

Richards camera shows all the g’s he was pulling 😂

[@thehighlife1320]

A thermostatically controlled air to oil heat exchanger.

[@MichaelJohnson-kg8bk]

The big thing I have noticed with high temp and hot IAT's, is the stock LS ECM pulls a bunch of timing. Would it be ok to relax some of the timing tables? My truck is a dog when its hot out.

[@nathanhusong4324]

Sounds like a cooling issue more than a tune issue. Instead of pushing it to run hotter, find a way to cool it off more. Could be a weak fan/fan clutch, rad plugged, etc.

[@travisblack417]

You could also tune out when it pulls timing. Watch it spark knock its brains out.

[@michaelangelo8001]

The Richard Holdener/Captain Kangaroo show. Only in California...

[@fahadalazmi6213]

hi Richard, why don’t you connect an ac compressor to a water to air intercooler and make it as cold as you can. that will really increase the air density! also i suggest you put a long intercooler so the air has enough time to cool down

[@fahadalazmi6213]

bot

[@thomasward4505]

I do remember Freiburger and Company tested some things and found out that a cool can actually help the power

[@richardholdener1727]

YES ON A CARB APPLICATION

[@randallsavage3795]

so the power gain is really unusable since it's around 3k or below. This was a very useful topic. I've always tried to keep the engine as cold as possible before making a pass. Now I see it was unnecessary.

[@mxguy2438]

Interesting. Looking at it from a different perspective, my setup runs noticeably better at light load after its warmed up.

[@terrygonyon4490]

Do you think by your testing that you could lean on the engine harder with a lower coolant temp vs a hotter coolant temp? And would lower temps require more or less fuel to make the same power? I didnt catch if you adjusted for max power at each coolant temp interval just the initial run. I've always thought you could lean on the engine harder with lower coolant temp as it will help alleviate detonation as you carry away some heat. Like overclocking a CPU in a computer. You can clock it higher if you keep temps under control.

[@donaldpowers3314]

Now do one on cold air and 95deg. Air. My ride sure loves the cold morning air. .

[@richardholdener1727]

they do like cold air

[@donaldpowers3314]

@@richardholdener1727 thanks for the reply. I took my 69 ROAD RUNNERbac in 84 to a best of 10.69 at 124.? I'm sure if it ran in the winter tems down here in south Texas. It would of be 3 tents quicker. NA 440 30 over 590. Purple shaft, stick with ram (6)puck clutch 2800 lb pressure plat . Dana 60 with 4.88 spool 14x32 ladder bars. 9° down (took get it to hook. 6k launches. Shifted at 6. 3200lbs. All steel body with 6 pk hood and lexan front windshield. And fenders. Widened rear wheel wells. Torker intake 800 cfm holley. Old school. At 4 different tracks 5 times, it varried off the trailer .02. I'm guessing it was I launched at shift point. All this DA Didnt effect the ets.. didnt have to rev to shift point. Man and that was on stock dia. valved heads. I used the belt driven water pump. Always made sure the enging temp was a 140 when I staged. And always staged the same way every time. Some times I could flicker the staged light from time to time. Had hope to get back. But now they're closing the Baytown track. I chassised it with a Chriss Alston kit. Its much lighter than before. Want to run 9.90 Events. Some day I'll test how much it takes to lift grabbing the front cross bar . Ive showed a few folks i could dead lift the chassis with out engine and trans. Stock k member long gone with the kit. Went thru a divorce. Parked it. Im waiting to hear the word abandoned. But at 72 i should face reality. Ive had a few dodge Daytona, a 92 Spirit RT wicked little wiyh the t3. Factory 224 hp factory said it would do 145mph. With traction the run high 12s. I even have a 83 scamp whick is like the DODGE rampage. Thougths of the t3 in it. Now I'm kinda stuck with 5.9 magnums. They fit nicely in the early dakotas. A little stall (mopar) and their performance computers. And 3.90 gears great daily drivers. Lots of low end tq . Where daily drivers need to focus. Again thanks for the reply.

[@jonathanmoore5112]

Wow these new test are awesome

[@OndreaS123]

oem is 195 on most and 205 on some, if I understand correctly they do it for efficiency & emissions. additionally, i've heard that long term cylinder wear increases when temperature is below 180. is there any proof of that? as for keeping oil warm & engine cool, just pick a happy medium by running a 160 or 180 thermostat how hot should the oil be?

[@DarkLinkAD]

I had a mostly highway impala, 140F highway, 160f city. Was running great with 275k miles on the clock before it was wrecked in a blizzard

[@332ARA]

I'd like to see a comparison between 187, 180, and 160 degree thermostats.

[@Odd_Redneck]

also seems like pumping loss from oil vis change. like running 15 oil to running a 30. like modern cars run 0w16 to counter pumping losses in effecinecy.

[@JosephNnbs]

Room tour? Or a video on how the controls work

[@DavidHall-fn1ly]

Take it one step further, since in most applications, intake air temp is affected by radiator temp. Meaning the air entering the engine normally comes thru the radiator before entering the intake. Run the engine again with the intake air temp corresponding to the engine temp. Add in heat soak to the engine components and see what kinds of power changes we see then. Put a box around the engine to get everything hot. And yes, i realize cold air intake systems are meant to alleviate hot air entering the engine, but most systems I've seen rarely make much of a difference.

[@DavidHall-fn1ly]

@RichardHoldener_ contacting you now

[@V8Lenny]

Grumpys Pro Stock SBC:s in the 70s made the most power when they were close to boiling. They were built and tuned to run hot.

[@richardholdener1727]

there is no tuned to run hot-a colder motor makes more power but with hot oil

[@V8Lenny]

@@richardholdener1727 dont know about electric motors but engines are more efficient when they run hot.

[@BOOT]

Would be interesting to see this test with an aluminum intake

[@richardholdener1727]

that doesn't change water temp

[@BOOT]

@@richardholdener1727 But it would prob change intake air temp and reduce power more with higher temps. Not so much as with older V8's that have coolant thru their intakes. Big fan of the LT(both gens) and LS not having coolant in the intake. Also a fan of plastic intakes, too bad they didn't work out so well for gen1 SBC All your current videos prove how Good the LS is!

[@michaelblacktree]

Those results are interesting. What is Richard gonna test next?

[@3800S1]

I found with my cars that engine temp or rather ambient temps (stat keeps a steady temp regardless) effect fuel economy significantly despite the AFRs and advance remaining virtually unchanged. High heat soak conditions though do bring on burst knock, this happens when outside temps are around 30c or higher and the water temp is at the peak of 100c and sitting at the lights for ages, the air intake temps are 60c or more sometimes. The ECU did have a quite aggressive coolant/advance offset table with those 97 and above cells pulling a lot of timing. I 0 them out and disable knock retard as it's hit and miss on factory GM code. However there is an unused charge/air temp/advance offset table that I could fiddle with for this purpose. Alternatively I could fit an 82 stat in place of the 92 one. As for the fuel economy, the only thing I can think off is at a certain high enough ambient temp the stat stays open more which relieves load on the water pump. The commodore has an excessively good cooling system that even with a 92 stat they struggle to get up to temp during the colder months when air temps are below 15c. Might be something worth testing, a lower 82 stat and see if economy gains due to taking load off the pump at lower temp weather.

[@lowrangeinnovascotia2930]

Oil takes longer to cool than water. Make a pull at water temp, check oil temp, when at the temp you want, cool the water down, Cold heads and hot shortblock = power.

[@richardholdener1727]

that was indicated in the vid

[@eliasmelendez1271]

I keep my water Temps around 150⁰-160⁰. I do have a electric water pump and no thermostat. I seen better gains at lower Temps vs stock oe 190⁰-200⁰ Temps.

[@brianbird3756]

Why are these temperatures unattainable? I'm running a 160° thermostat and much lower temp fan settings in my caddy and I actually had to raise them a bit because it was running TOO cold. Our modern cooling systems are capable of running at almost any temp you wish. With my settings and thermostat, I don't even break 210° on a 110° west Texas afternoon (225° oil temps) and it doesn't go below 175° on the highway in the winter (195° oil). I learned just how great our stock cooling systems are during an afternoon with a failed thermostat. Once it was removed, my engine wouldn't get over 140° degrees.

[@3800TURBO]

I don't run the engine colder for more power. I found egts were lower running it colder and the heads would stay on better at higher boost. Thus adding power anyway. NA probably no need to bother.

[@Fk8td]

How about an oil heater test?

[@Mr.monke_222]

with out all of these what if test....people would be in a world of doubt.

[@mattmoser5861]

@richardholdener1727 great videos, thanks for all the work and running! 😂. This one got me thinking about compression testing and how it is usually recommended on a warm engine. 116 F is probably warm enough. What do you do for compression testing on your junkyard motors? What is acceptable variation between cylinders? What about after ring gap? Does temperature really make a difference when compression testing? Do you have any rules for approximate acceptable compression vs compression ratio? Or does that even matter? So many questions…ever thought about doing a video on this? Keep up the testing! Excited to see more 2.2L turbo runs!

[@richardholdener1727]

we compression test at any temp-just as long as you test them all under the same conditions (we are looking for cylinder to cylinder differences)

[@177SCmaro]

I run my coyote at 190. If I want more power I tell the boost controller I want more power.

[@exploranator]

I've got a great challenge for you! Seeing as PD blowers haver such gigantic low-RPM torque production, why not claw back some high-RPM power by doing nothing more than ridiculously oversized header primary tubes? 2.25" tubes 2.5" tubes 3" tubes YOU could pioneer the use of such headers to rescue the top RPM of positive displacement supercharger motors with a little experimentation. (long tubes, also, obviously, I hope.) OR, prove that it's a bad idea. Either way, it's a winning video.

[@richardholdener1727]

that size on an LS or BBC? and btw-pd blower intake designs already offer more high rpm power-so do most pd cam designs

[@Matp345]

I think in the real world coolant temp is only half the stroy. I feel oil temp and especially intake air temp play a huge part

[@richardholdener1727]

THOSE MATTER TOO-THIS TEST WAS WATER TEMP

[@Matp345]

@@richardholdener1727 honestly I thought hotter coolant would've lost it upstairs. But maybe since air speed is so high it doesn't have a chance to warm it up. Or it cools the inlet and chamber down. 🤔

[@cramcustoms]

I'd like to see an intake air temp difference test, my turbo 4.3 sliverado runs the in the 60-70 degree intake temp range in Texas.

[@FeralPreacher]

All your car noises are really cute . . . for a second grader. That you are still doing it speaks volumes about your sanity, or lack thereof. Test = great. Noises = ???

[@richardholdener1727]

DON'T WORRY-YOU'LL HAVE FUN TOO ONE DAY

[@brracing7861]

Fuel Volidity is likely a factor also.

[@button-puncher]

Too cold and your oil won't get over 220. Water won't boil off. Oil+water is bad and cause real problems for a daily driver. Water doesn't lubricate and the combo creates a foamy sludge that sticks to things in the heads. Also, carbon combines with the water, creates lye which is caustic (eats metal). Thanks again Richard. Great stuff.

[@MrChevelle83]

This is why short trips are hard on engines and they require more oil changes. I over service my cars due to this.

[@darriandk]

I think the outside air temp that the engine breathes in has way more of a effect then engine temp I think people get confused by that when I race my 2 stroke in the winter they definitely feel faster when the engine temp is at 120 vs 80

[@richardholdener1727]

COLD AIR IS BETTER

[@brandonrohrer7914]

I wondee if there is any change in the amount of fuel used in this and the last couple test

[@laiky71]

Interesting to see how little this affects an ls. I'm curious if a SBC with a wet dual plane would see bigger gains. I always tend to run my motors warner, for oil temp, stable clearances, drivability etc. I be wonder what I'm giving up

[@dennisford2000]

You need to retest this. Do it with a dry manifold, like a B block mopar or Pontiac , should also make more power than a wet manifold, and hot coolant will prevail?

[@richardholdener1727]

THE LS INTAKE IS A DRY MANIFOLD

[@rolandotillit2867]

Makes sense that there would be less power at lower RPM, less dense air, less momentum behind the air. If this is an EFI engine, the computer is probably pulling a few degrees of timing down low to keep knock in check.

[@richardholdener1727]

THERE IS NO CHANGE IN TIMING-THE CURVE IS LOCKED

[@rolandotillit2867]

@@richardholdener1727 Then it's all down to air flow. Air also has a higher kinematic viscosity the hotter it is. From coldest to hottest in your test there is a 25% decrease in air density, along with a similar increase in both kinematic and dynamic viscosity. So again, makes sense that the biggest change would be at low rpm when air moves slower. Although I could be completely off base and didn't listen to you properly, and the only thing changed is water temperature. I don't know if coolant temperature affects IATs on this engine. In any event Merry Christmas, and thanks for the video.

[@melissamalone1530]

I been debating on some mufflers to on what 3 inch pair of mufflers I'm gonna buy been looking at spintech 6000 also been looking at CAVERN mufflers I got the 1 3/4 true dual LONGTUBES from speed engineering but need to buy a set of mufflers then gotta pick out a camshaft.

[@troymecey]

Colder for more power. 160* thermostat works for me.

[@chandlerlofton6536]

Hey hey hey! Only engines are allowed to run in the dyno cell! 😂

[@richardholdener1727]

MOTOR HEAD!

[@DSRE535]

At peak horsepower I don’t think there’s enough time for the temperature difference to change the horsepower output I could be wrong though

[@andy347495]

I wonder what the average power differences are between each one.

[@ozysniper]

Your a funny bastard!🤣 Love it....hahahaha

[@bdperformance5057]

Im running twin turbo lq9’s in my 42 foot fountain lightning.. i run oil stats to try to get to your “best of both worlds”. Oil temps of 190 ish. Water temps never get over 100. And iat’s normally in 90 range..

[@richardholdener1727]

nice-real world combo where you run hot oil and cold water!

[@freyja4954]

Electronic water pump and an oil pan heater from a diesel truck.

[@melissamalone1530]

Wooo hooo love this shit Richard I can't wait to burn some tires w my L33 what do u think of the TSP. Chopocabra camshaft compared to Truck Norris camshaft

[@richardholdener1727]

HAVE NOT TESTED, BUT SHOULD BE SIMILAR

[@RaceMentally]

Why are we NOT testing 180-240? That’s where they operate. I feel on any track at 230-235 power starts to go away. Please test that! Thanks!

[@richardholdener1727]

we did test at 180 degrees

[@RaceMentally]

@@richardholdener1727 I know. 180-240 you didn’t. That’s where we all operate. I’d bet 230-240 would be a 5% loss

[@Go4BrokeOffroad]

Oil pan warmer and methanol injection.

[@streetk14]

I’d like to see the relationship between coolant temp and knock resistance. I don’t think a stock CR 5.3 is going to really test this, but that’s always been my reasoning for running 160 degree t-stats. A high compression or forced induction 91 octane test should do it. Thoughts?

[@brracing7861]

Noticed my 354 Gen 6 makes best torque when it's cold drive off 20 seconds after starting. Horsepower is Best when water temps are 190-195 F. Need to conduct this test again Richard Holdener with an Ultra High Ststic Compression Ratio Engine like 13.0 :1 and High Dynamic cranking compression measured 290-310 psi and with Racing Gasoline or E85. Compare Resluts again.

[@richardholdener1727]

310 psi of cranking compression?

[@brracing7861]

@@richardholdener1727 Yes I have obtained 310 psi cranking compression on my Pontiac 455s all iron with 13.0:1 static compression ratio and 106 LCA 106 ICA Camshafts. Big Block Chevy 454 Guys have done the same reported same results 390-310 psi Cranking Compression. Be a NHRA Super Stock Normal Aspirated Full Race Build.

[@brracing7861]

@@richardholdener1727 Effective compression ratio is the result final. Factor in VE Volumetric efficiency 100-120 % NA Obtained Super Stock

[@bluegizmo1983]

You should run it hot, REALLY HOT!! ... As in adding a 300 HP shot of nitrous hot!! 😂

[@richardholdener1727]

-129 is very cold

[@batman607]

Man you need a new posi-traction, your left side is squealing around the corners 👀🚓🚓

[@richardholdener1727]

I did get a little loose

[@batman607]

@@richardholdener1727 you’ll find that the older you get, the looser you get in the caboose. I love your shows and knowledge. I’ve been working on sbc’s since I was 12 which was 60 years ago. 🥵🥵🥶Just did my first LS in my lead foot sons 2013 Zl1 Camaro. Converting a ls9 to wet sump was an experience, but I love the titanium rods that came in it but I still put ARP bolts in them. 🤠

[@Arthagnou]

wouldnt the change in temp matter most when you are on the edge of CR and timing. That is the hotter/colder (depending on your base) it is the more change you should make to the timing?

[@S944Porsche]

Richard, what were the AFRs from each run? I would expect the colder runs to be somewhat richer than the hotter runs on a given tune unless you were changing the CLT/AFR or warm-up enrichment between runs. Might help explain the low-down torque difference.

[@richardholdener1727]

THE DIFFERENCE IS NOT AF-THAT WAS THE SAME (I CHANGE THAT-NO MODIFIERS)

[@GTStuning-]

What ignition timing were you at when you were doing those full throttle runs from room to room? I'm amazed you got traction in that hallway, Mickey Thompson shoes I'm guessing.

[@richardholdener1727]

NEEDS TRACK BITE

[@mattcole5926]

I love you bro good laughs

[@flash7210]

I want to know about oil coolers. I wouldn't expect more HP from an oil cooler but at what point do you NEED an oil cooler? Why do some engines have factory oil coolers and some dont?

[@MrChevelle83]

small cars and trucks dont need oil coolers, its the heavier trucks and suv that have towing capacity that need them.

[@flash7210]

@@MrChevelle83 thanks. But what does towing capacity have to do with oil temp? Why not have a bigger radiator?

[@chrishansen7004]

Are the cylinder heads bottlenecking this motor? the dyno for btrs hot rod cam shows the hot rod cam making 456hp, id surely expect more than 20hp with this setup considering the fact that this has a fast lsxrt flat top pistons and a bigger cam.

[@richardholdener1727]

I have a video up comparing the red hot to the hot rod-there was nowhere near 20 hp, in fact, the gain you see here is from the FAST

[@brracing7861]

The Reid Vapor Test Pressures of the Gasoline, E83, Or Methanol used.

[@dylanarnold4487]

Great vidja 🤙🏼