Shure SM 58 Wireless Radio Mic Microphone No Audio Sound Output Repair

[@tdtrecordsmusic]

I've done this many times. I've got some pointers & can help. Heating the enamel off has never worked for me. I think people got this idea caz there exists enamel coated wire which is designed to be burned off either by flux or heat. MOST enamel wire is not like that. Especially wire used for this purpose >> When considering which wire to use for this delicate application they have to consider the enamel type & thickness to get the mic "sound" correct. They choose wire carefully... In my experience, trying to burn off enamel results in a more difficult to remove burnt plastic which is now stuck and carbonized to the copper = no bueno. sooo. The trick to getting the enamel off perfectly and beautifully is to use sand paper... abrasives. Practice with scrap wire. It is very easy when you get the hang of it, but since the wire is soooooo thin it is really hard to see(more on that later/Final Trick). Use the correct grit. Use fresh paper. Technique #1 >> Tear off little bits of sand paper and stick them to jaws of needle-nose pliers OR tweezers. The tip/end. Tweezers might be better caz the springy-ness will help not put too much pressure. Use tweezers with blunt ends/ not pointy ends. Glue the sand paper to the tweezers or get them stuck somehow. >>> Squeeze gently and pull. Use the other hand to grip the wire. More pulls are better than more force. Stay in the same place with every pull. Count to 10 or 50 and check continuity on that little strip. If good continue >>> Rotate 90 degrees and repeat. Rotate another 45 degrees and repeat. Rotate another 22.5 degrees and repeat. I call this method the "sandpaper sandwich" Technique #2 >> sick some sand paper to something semi rigid & easy to hold like a popsicle stick. Then find something large & flat to rest the wire on. I typically use the pivot joint of the needle-nose pliers. Hold the wire down on the pliers and then sand off the enamel in rotated sections as described above. Technique #3 >> This technique takes practice and I only do this for stubborn wires or when there are way too many to do by hand. Use a Dremel 932 grinding stone. I customized mine by making a V-groove in the grinding stone because without that it takes way too many rotations of the wire. With the v-groove you only have to turn the wire 4 times. Without the v-groove it takes ages and often the wire is thinned out of existence. (Flat sections of wire suck!! =weak wire =bad/start over) Set the Dremel for low/medium speed >> Hold the wire in fingers and gently apply it to the stone >> because the wire is so thin it will have just the right tension to push itself against the stone. The wire will try to wrap itself around the stone and this can be used to your advantage as it will grind more of the enamel. YES, the direction is important. You want everything arranged so the wire would wind up along the spinning grinding stone. It's really easy to go too far & practice is necessary. I customized my 932 because i use this technique often & for many different gauges. You can find the correct Dremel speed by trying the very tip of the wire first. Slow speed. Final trick >> since you're dealing with a mic capsule it is very easy to check if you've got the enamel removed properly by hooking the wires up to the mixer. You can easily connect alligator clips to an empty XLR connector(no wires attached)... The bare xlr connector has big pins sticking straight out. Turn the gain up and you will be able to hear whether or not the enamel was completely removed. Sometimes it is still spotty, but most of the time complete strips are still there. Listen for the interruption of the ground noise. Push the alligator clip on all parts of this enamel cleaned wire to check for uncleaned spots. It's way faster & more reliable than with the multi-meter. Don't forget about the sharpie trick to make sure you've covered the whole surface :) NOTE: CAUTION: It is sooo important to get this stuff off completely before trying to solder >>> caz when you try to tin this "unfinished" wire 2 things will likely happen >> One is that the enamel will carbonize and somehow spread to the whole area >> Then solder is utterly refused, black stuff makes the solder not stick. The second thing that will happen is that the solder might stick to a teeny tiny bit of the wire, then this really gets in the way of trying to redo. When you try to re-scrape/re-sand > the solder gets caught and then you will likely rip the delicate wire apart. It's near impossible to use the Dremel Technique #3 on wire with tiny blobs of solder. Yes, again >> Verify the enamel is completely removed prior to soldering

[@ricardoferreira2811]

Tdt recods: do you have videos of your techniques? It sounds brilliant. Thx

[@tdtrecordsmusic]

@@ricardoferreira2811 I need a camera. Currently I'm a broke & broken musician. It's a good month if I eat everyday... Don't even have a phone. Embrace the changes caz most things don't happen more than once :) I've got plenty of audio recording gear, but zero vid recording stuff aside from make-shifting something out of the raspberry pi or a usb microscope. I have plenty of tricks to make content. Lots of stuff I'd love to teach, but... yeah.. zero video recording gear. Someday... Thnx 4 showing interest. It's motivating :)

[@mrjaybennett80]

I came into possession of a ULXD2 with SM58 Head and I noticed a rattle somewhere in the microphone. I deduced that the sound was coming from the head and after watching a few videos saw that there is a nut that holds the board inplace and yes you do have to go in from the top as the wires are EXTREMELY short. When lifting up the bronze contact just gently push on one side which brings the opposite side up. Take a dental pick or a fine needle and insert into a seam and gently lift up. As suspected the entire assembly had come apart and the wires were snapped in two probably due to incorrect packaging during transport. Anyway it is very fixable and thank you for this video it was perfect from beginning to end.

[@todorhristov5246]

Thank you for featuring a mic repair. Actually, the SM58 (non-wireless) is probably the most used and the most durable dynamic microphone ever build. They have literally been used to hammer nails with and still only needed a metal cover replacement, so it's quite interesting to see an actual failure of the cartridge itself.

[@twobob]

^^ this

[@rodd8170]

I think someone had already twisted the top part and snapped the wires.

[@ledoynier3694]

That's actually the Electrovoice 664 story :p

[@fanfan-tz2tk]

Not really a failure ! What is important for us is to understand what is failing and what to change . Thanks for sharing.

[@Alvin853]

It seems a big part of electonics repair is figuring out how to take the device apart without damaging anything.

[@yalcinkir01]

People who check whether the microphone is working by hitting it should be considered guilty

[@mikemcconnell2794]

Very interesting video. Thanks. I would suggest that you get an OEM capsule. The sm58 is one of the most counterfeited microphones out there. The counterfeits do not sound the same as oem. I've been in the audio industry for over 40 years. Trust me on this one. Have a good day.

[@jmgallag]

I think this is a condenser microphone, and would not show dc continuity. Did you test after your repair?

[@gerrabath]

The SM58 is a Dynamic not a Condenser.

[@Poppinwheeeeellllllieeeeez]

I burn the enamel off with a butane lighter and it works. Be quick with it. You can use the same lighter to light up a big spliff to celebrate the successful repair.

[@twobob]

Three contacts is probably using a balanced line to prevent common-mode noise and interference being passed back into the pre-amp stage. (I love how to person in the factory used a red pen to mark positive and you used a blue one to mark negative...)

[@TheEmbeddedHobbyist]

Always hard to fix that fine enamelled wires when they have broken under tension, it can snap where it turns a corner or meets a hard edge. The tape can also mean that it can break in more than one place.

[@redsunmtm]

Hi Richard i saw that you soldered the positive of the coil to the negative of the terminal:Red terminal is ground ! but as it didn't work... hasta luego amigo ! :) and i wanted to say: the third contact is for phantom power...

[@tenlittleindians]

I didn't know they made a model 58 that needed phantom power.

[@tdtrecordsmusic]

no phantom power for dynamic mics. You can tell if the mic requires phantom power when it has flat pieces of metal. Metal foil. Mic capsules which have coils of magnet wire are going to be dynamic & no phantom power.

[@tenlittleindians]

@@tdtrecordsmusic I have no idea what your talking about in identifying one type of mic over another. I have several Sure brand mic's and one of them does require phantom power. I also have a few very old recording microphones that have built in batteries and they don't need phantom power either.

[@tdtrecordsmusic]

@@tenlittleindians The manual will tell what technology the mic capsule is made of. You would have to disassemble the mic capsule to see the "metal foil" vs "copper coil" of magnet wire. I do NOT recommend taking them apart. I do, but I have the dexterity of a watch-maker. Even with that I only mess with a mic if I need to or it's dead. In general >> condensers need phantom, dynamics don't use phantom, Ribbon mics are all different and you HAVE to read the manual. If you're curious I'd just look it up :) Lots of info online :)

[@tenlittleindians]

@@tdtrecordsmusic That's almost accurate. My father just happened to be a watchmaker. Schooled in Elgin Illinois back when people still wore watches. I've got the skills he had plus some electrical background he didn't have. You seem to have left out or forgot about crystal mics. There's not much to repairing one of those that's been dropped. A huge chunk of those old "Elvis" style mics have crystal cartridges inside and the sources of replacement cartridges is dwindling.

[@michaelkatgerman168]

Nice. But the thin wires want free speace fore mechenical abuse (vibration) fore streching so there has to bee a stress release on the coil (loop in tape) and his conections :). Can you messure the windings on top of the coil ?

[@jonathanmadness9457]

Good evening, I did not mark the positive or negative pole during disassembly. How do you recognize the negative pole that you note in blue on the yellow tape. I don't want to do stupid things. Thanks for your help. Cordially

[@ralphj4012]

Good attempt. I wonder whether the top clear collar comes undone (with force obviously) and you could see where the wires were broken, though then of course the module is likely to be unusable anyway.

[@CTCTraining1]

Thx for another interesting video ... and I’d not looked into the cost of replacement cartridges - would be worth knowing the performance difference between the cheaper and proper versions. I wouldn’t be surprised if someone said they were made on the same production line. Keep up the great work 😀👍

[@tenlittleindians]

Your having the same luck I had at getting these working again. There's a huge weight difference in capsules between the original and the bargain replacement. Probably a good indicator that it doesn't have the same frequency range and quirks as an original. If it's a seasoned performer who's used a 58 for years the bargain capsule may not be a very good choice. If it's a podcast guest mic or grade school recital mic the cheap copy may be good enough.

[@abeleski]

those tiny enamel wires are a pain to work with. Recently I was fixing a connector for headphones and they used similar tiny wire. I had no luck using soldering iron to break enamel so i can tin them. The trick for me was to put a flame on the end and burn off the enamel. Be careful as it burns like a fuse so you have to blow it off quickly so you only burn enamel at end of wire. Good luck

[@twobob]

would have been handy if he brought in the working one. then you would at least have known for sure what resistance you should expect to see on the coil. 6963 total words in H:M:S: 00:43:23 mean average 160 wpm

[@twobob]

I believe it screws apart like that so that if you totally destroy tthe mic element then the transformer and/or batteries section can still be used since it is a VERY common rig, even the wireless ones. Must be a zillion in Karaoke bars... As I recall the top mic section also screws apart. Or used to. Could be mistaken but I think that plate thingy backs onto a circuit board.. (EDIT: yup it did)

[@Elfnetdesigns]

I cheap investment to test things like this is one of those cheap baofeng dual band VHF UHF handheld radios for like $30 USD. You can literally dial in the frequency manually and under a 50 ohm dummy load you can transmit back to the mic's receiver as well. Also Sure is a good mid tier mic brand but there are Chinesium infused plastic fakes out there. The SM-58 is a very common model used out in the wild for general use like in a band for vocals or as a mic on a paging system, at the pulpit in a church, etc... The SM-57 is the model used to mic a drum kit or used in a a room where many people will be speaking at a table in a business meeting / conference or at a convention panel show since it is directional. Neither the 57 or 58 require phantom power from the mixer. Sometimes with these things like this that you can buy off the shelf at a music shop or online it is best to just replace the whole unit. Of course if it was a special application device that was built for a specific job then you would invest in a repair because of the cost.

[@ahmadpopal9567]

Hi Richard thanks for the amazing work. Just an off topic question. Why is there a voltage when you measure between transistor C to E in a common collector setup when its ON, while in other videos you mentioned that when the transistor is ON basically the voltage between C and E is around 0.1 or like a short. I am a bit confused.

[@LearnElectronicsRepair]

That depends on what voltage is on the emitter. In common emitter circuits (the most common configuration) if the emitter is connected directly to ground then the voltage on the collector would be almost zero if the transistor is on. If the emitter connects to ground via a resistor (and collector to Vcc by another resistor) then this would not necessarily be the case. In other circuit configurations such as emitter follower, there can be quite a large voltage across collector-emitter when the transistor is turned on (and it gets hot). In this case it is acting like a voltage regulator so for an input of 12V on the collector, and 9.6V on the base, then the emitter (output) would be 9V and there would be 3V across the transistor collector-emitter. The wattage dissipated by the transistor would be 3 Volts x Current (amps) The one thing we can say for certain is that if the base is around +0.6V (or -0.6V for PNP) with respect to the emitter, then the transistor will be turned on - if it is a good transistor.

[@ahmadpopal9567]

@@LearnElectronicsRepair I get it, thanks for the prompt reply. Please keep it up.

[@TheEmbeddedHobbyist]

@@ahmadpopal9567 if you can see the markings on the transistor, you can look up the data sheet for it, then look for the value for Vce(sat). this is the max volatge between the collector and emitter when the transistor is fully saturated. e.g. the base has been driven to a voltage that can't turn on the transistor any further. this can be lower for small signal transistors than for power ones.

[@kuonaik]

A Shure microphone is the most common used microfoon in the world. The SM58 has the absolute equal quality as the Sennheiser, AKG and Beyer microphones.

[@terenceoconnor1584]

Those wires are so small and hidden behind the tape. Amazing

[@theoloutlaw]

'I'm sure between the cracks of reality, we'll find Gaffa tape' Ahahahaha!

[@Dutch_off_grid_homesteading]

Heya, I don't think it's a failure we still learn from it even if we don't have the tools to ficks everything

[@twobob]

Shure SM58 are not meant to be high quality. They are specifically designed for "live" go-to work. Frequency and response are curved and tailored to prevent "average" sound engineers from making the sound feedback or have plosives. I seem to recall it also is extra-resilient to people screaming into it and other "OMG what the hell is /n/ doing with that mic?" moments. In a nutshell "Workhorse".

[@twobob]

"The Force" refers to the alleged energy created via the "midi-chlorians" in Jedi cells. This is of course in reference to the very real "Mitochondria" which also exist in every REAL human cell and provide energy. If they wanted to guide some people to evil and some to good to take over the universe they have had plenty of time to do it by now. I.E. Humans are good or bad. And the very concept of good or badness is inherently human. Mitochondria could not give a monkeys. :)

[@johnnybravo505]

Nonsense, SM58 have been used on countless classic recordings & what you say about feedback & plosives is way off. It's high SPL handling is the only bit you are correct about. "Designed for average sound engineers" LOL ... a lot of very experienced sound engineers will be rolling on the floor if they read this ... 🤣

[@twobob]

@@johnnybravo505 Hi. Thanks for your input. I didn't say they haven't been used on countless recordings. "The Shure SM58® is a unidirectional (cardioid) dynamic vocal microphone for professional vocal use in sound reinforcement and studio recording. A highly effective, built-in, spherical filter minimizes wind and breath “pop” noise. A cardioid pickup pattern isolates the main sound source while minimizing unwanted background noise. The SM58 has a tailored vocal response for a sound which is a world standard" Are we talking about the same mic that I slaved with for 20 years in studios with? or some other mic. Thanks.

[@twobob]

@@johnnybravo505 "Designed for average sound engineers" refers to their accessibility to very average "club" rig owners to do a passable job. Also singers with dodgy mic technique to sound less terrible.Not seeing your point, perhaps you didn't understand mine: I was saying that was largely a good thing. Perhaps re-read it with a less negative and hopefully now more illuminated view of my initial and current position on what is a very decent, resilient and often used by idiots microphone. That does not preclude someone less idiotic also handing such a device. It does however forgive those who aren't so ninja.

[@twobob]

@@johnnybravo505 ". a lot of very experienced sound engineers will be rolling on the floor if they read this " ...I can ask some if you would like...

[@frankbaron1608]

i was shouting "don't you have an audio signal generator?" :)

[@jonathanrose456]

Another SM58 wireless head failed? I’ve had several gone & a well known fault. Their wired alternative is built like a brick ….* house & has been an industry standard because of its reliability. Safe to say, their wireless version isn’t anywhere near the same quality.

[@semiRockethr]

I am shure this is gonna be repaired somehow for shure.

[@paulmorrey733]

Thanks

[@jonathanrose456]

❤

[@daz41262010]

not a failure really TBH we all learnt that it can't be repaired YET :)

[@Jinkle]

Pretty sure that’s not an SM58

[@weerobot]

Cool...Don't cut Nails...lol

[@pengmarisa1003]

Hello, Our company would like to invite you to try our company's products for free. How can I get in touch with you?

[@LearnElectronicsRepair]

The email address is in the About section of my channel. You can email me on [e-mail]

[@MrProtector65]

The best of the rest, i was sitting through the whole video waiting for the eureka moment, i did it, Yes, ah well, even the best cannot fix everything, still excelent as always, regards. 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀