Sikkens/Proluxe

[@pjandbmx]

This was an INCREDIBLE amount of accurate information. You sir, are the master of info about wood coatings.

[@pjandbmx]

Can you use Rubbol solid on Mahogany deck boards?

[@ryans1789]

You answered questions I didn’t even realize I had... thanks man.

[@keithdeters4022]

My east facing garage doors have Cetol Dark Oak that is 10 years old with no apparent maintenance. How do I restore there color and finish without stripping to bare wood? Thx!

[@philosophicallyspeaking6463]

Hi Jason, I have a question that I have been waiting to ask someone who 'actually' seems to know something. That person being you, here goes: When using clear, natural, transparent or semi-transparent 'oil' stains, why isn't it practise to wipe off or 'work in' any 'extra' (as woodworkers do) product as it evidences itself during a 'suitable' soaking in period, but before it dries and skims in those innocent enough looking product 'rich' areas? No one seems to talk about it, but many people have problems with sealing PT because it absorbs, or doesn't , unevenly, causing very thin skinning in small areas that dry invisible, but are nonetheless prone to peeling. Thanks!

[@tblues]

Are you still selling the Sikkens-Sico products? I live in the Bay Area of California. Building a redwood pergola and looking for a product to seal. Could you recommend a Sico product? Thanks in advance 😊

[@jmg7738]

Great review Jason...Very informative & helpful!

[@cartierc156]

Thanks for the review. Any thought on SRD vs. SRD RE? Also, choice between SRD and the deck product. One better than the other? And for either the SRD or deck, can subsequent maintenance coats be used every year or two without need to strip/remove old stain? Thanks!!

[@jasonbanman95]

Srd RE is just the newer version of Srd meaning Reduced emissions. It seems to perform the same as the previous version. Srd has silicone in it so you need a minimum of 3-6 months depending on exposure before recoating. It just needs to be cleaned, not sanded between recoats. On an exposed deck it’s good to do one coat, wait a year then do a thin maintenance coat and then a full coat every two years after that.

[@johnadank194]

What stain would you recommend for some new exterior white oak Adirondack chairs. I would prefer something that doesn’t blister or flake off.

[@onyxpainting5653]

Can you elaborate the meaning application for wet on wet. If I apply first coat first day on deck. Can I apply another coat next day ? Or won’t penetrate the second coat and more likely pooled. Cheers

[@KordTaylor]

Thanks. Our local store only has Sikkens Marine which I wish was covered here.

[@Hundert1]

Expensive stuff!! Any much cheaper & better stuff ? Thanks

[@steakncheddar]

Would there be any benefit to using the Log and Siding instead of Dek Finish on a deck, if i'm OK with marring but want to avoid flaking? I would do the maintenance coats as recommended in either case. My thinking is the softer finish of the Log and Siding would help it weather the Canadian freeze/thaw cycles a little better.

[@jasonbanman95]

I’ve used both products on decks just because sometimes the dek finish hasn’t had the colour I’ve needed. I’ve found log and siding holds up extremely well even though it’s not recommended for it. I have a set of cedar log stairs that I haven’t restained in for over four years that I did in log and siding and there’s no peeling at all.

[@ratpinscher]

Im staining a deck covering with SRD 077 cedar. I brushed on heavy, let sit for 15 minutes then buffed with stain saturated rag. Left a great color on rough cedar and fir glulams. So you recommend I should recoat every 1-2 years with a natural transparent to maintain color?

[@jasonbanman95]

Ideally most of the stain should have soaked in so there will be a minimal wear layer right now. I would restain next year and then every 2 years after that.

[@TheGriffInc]

Best review and so easy to digest! Two-Thumbs Up!

[@Coyotes_Locos]

I currently have Benjamin Moore Arborcoat exterior oil-based semi-solid stain on exterior pine accent logs on my home. It has been on my logs for about 2 years. I tried applying Benjamin Moore Woodluxe oil-based semi-solid stain over the existing stain in a test area, but it did not seem to cover well, after about one month there were areas that looked like it had washed off. All of the instructions for stains these days seem to call for removal of the existing stain, getting down to bare wood, then applying stain. This is next to impossible for for me to do. Is there an oil-based semi-solid stain that I can apply directly over the existing oil-based semi-solid stain without having to strip the logs to bare wood? Is it possible that the Woodluxe did not cover well because the existing Arborcoat is not sufficiently weathered to accept new stain? Any ideas?

[@JasonBanman]

Hey Marty, the problem you are having is woodluxe has changed to a penetrating formula from the Arbourcoat. It can’t build on top of the existing stain and needs to penetrate. If you can find an appropriate colour the Cetol Log and siding can go over the Arbourcoat, but it is a transparent product and not a semi solid. Other than that I’m not aware of another product that will adhere over top that is available in a semi solid. But I have mixed other oil based stains with Log and Siding to achieve a more semi solid look. You could try mixing the woodluxe semi solid with natural log and siding in a small sample. If they don’t separate after resting for 5 minutes you should be good to go.

[@Coyotes_Locos]

@JasonBanman Thanks. I will check out the Cetol. Any other options? A semi-transparant stain? So what do people do in this situation?

[@JasonBanman]

@@Coyotes_Locos The only options are to either wait for the stain to weather enough for the woodluxe to penetrate or remove the existing which is never fun. If it is in good shape and you don’t need to add colour you could just put log and siding over top.

[@Coyotes_Locos]

​@JasonBanman Thanks again. The logs and stain are in great shape. I just wanted to touch-up some minor fading. Thank you.

[@frankiecrue]

How many coats of the Deck Finish to start, and then maintain?

[@dawhercas]

Hello Jason, what do you recommend for a cedar roof ?

[@airwatersun]

What was that paint you called the cadillac of paint for decks..could not for the life of me understand what you called it...bore, flora??? Can you tell me what you were referring to. Many thanks.

[@jessicavalentin6031]

Same! I kept rewinding to try to figure it out.

[@gregpflaum]

I think he was talking about Benjamin-Moore Aura paint at the end.

[@jasonbanman95]

Sorry sometimes I talk fast. The paint I mentioned is Benjamin Moore Aura exterior.

[@airwatersun]

@@jasonbanman95 Thank You!

[@kutncure]

Great video --I will be staining my fence using a sprayer and. Proluxe dark oak 009 . I was told I will need a mineral oil primer..do u agree?…

[@jasonbanman95]

No Ralph, you don’t need any primer. Something like a mineral oil will saturate the wood and not allow the stain to penetrate into the wood. All Sikkens products go straight to the wood without a primer.

[@Juan-zd1ct]

I didn’t hear you mention sikkens door and windows. I would like to hear how it compared to the other sikkens stains

[@Juan-zd1ct]

Very helpful information by the way. Thanks.

[@stacyc3681]

I bought the SRD wood finish transparent matte for my unfinished mahogany front door. Will this work ok?

[@jasonbanman95]

Srd will work fine on a mahogany wood door. As srd is a penetrating product and does not build it will need to be maintained a bit more often. Every 2-3 years it will need a refresher coat. If you are staining the door a darker colour, you can use natural in a few years to maintain protection without continuing to darken the colour.

[@stacyc3681]

@@jasonbanman95 thanks so much for your quick reply! Is there another proluxe stain you'd recommend to be a better choice? We chose natural oak color.

[@jasonbanman95]

Srd is your only choice if you want a matte finish. Something like 3 coats of cetol 1 would outlast the Srd but it will have the signature Sikkens satin sheen. The Srd will work well as long as you maintain it every couple of years with a quick cleaning and a fresh coat. No sanding required.

[@stacyc3681]

@@jasonbanman95 there are so many names, but I would just ask for proluxe cetol? If they don't have that available and I go with the srd, I don't have to add another finish over the srd? I appreciate your help. I haven't been able to find anyone to answer my questions. The door company only suggested that I use sikkens stain.

[@jasonbanman95]

@@stacyc3681 You would ask for Proluxe Cetol 1 in your same colour Natural Oak 005. You can’t put another finish over top of the Srd until it has weathered because it contains silicone so the two coats won’t bond together. Once the Srd is at least 1 year old you can put anything on top of it such as a clear polyurethane, Cetol 1 or SRD again.

[@jafallica]

Can this be used on composite decking?