Simple, elegant charcuterie board from Walnut, coffee and epoxy

[@BriannaTerese]

This looks so niiice.

[@soulnyangoni5495]

Nice, good work

[@demetrimeimaris726]

Classy looking and l agree, amazing work!! Can't wait to get started mine!!

[@roym.1141]

what are your best tips/tricks for not getting air bubbles around the beans? I did 3 pour layers, first 2 were table top (mica powder and clear) and last clear layer was deep pour all using superclear. I believe the bubbles i got were from the second layer, i coated the beans in the epoxy then poured them unlike what you did. ive seen both methods recommeneded for minimum air bubbles..

[@ngocdiy4817]

An excellent DIY product.good luck 🤞

[@gelladamjc]

Amazing work!!! Thanks for the wedding gift!

[@YuaASMR]

You should seal off the sides of the wood with resin & a brush before pouring It'll remove any risk of bubbles or seepage into the wood that could create a void during the process. Looks good though

[@JonDurbin]

Thanks for the suggestion. I typicall brush the edges on deeper pours, but since both pours here were so shallow it wasn’t necessary (since I was torching bubbles).

[@stevenlarson6125]

I have yet to have walnut "leech air" into my epoxy. Other woods, such as cottonwood, yes, should be sealed first. I've done tons of boards using walnut, maple, all types of wood, and have never had to seal it up. You just have to use your brain and think about what wood you are using, and if there are any cracks or knots in the surfaces that are going to be in the "river".

[@caseymorgan2112]

is there not a better way to do this than to cut through beans when squaring up the edges, potentially causing damage and an unsightly edge with exposed cut beans?

[@roym.1141]

you can always add a seal coat of table top epoxy afterwards or take the time to keep the beans away from the edges which is a nuisance really

[@scottgorman7166]

Nicely done. Contrast of the sap wood next to the dark epoxy looks very rich. Now a question, why did you wait for full cure instead of almost a half cure so you can get a chemical bond instead of a mechanical bond.? Now a suggestion, ....make the epoxy a satin finish and the wood high gloss or visa versa, it will certainly pop!!!! Thanks for sharing

[@JonDurbin]

Do you nean waiting for a full cure before applying the finish? If so, it was because there was a bit of spillage onto the wood that required quite a bit of sanding, and doing so on a partially cured epoxy makes for a huge gummy mess. The dual finish would probably look very nice, next time!

[@scottgorman7166]

@@JonDurbin I meant after the first pour for the coffee, most of the time you need to scuff up the cured epoxy, if it was still alittle soft then the chemical bond takes place. Obviously you cannnot sand with the coffee beams on the set up epoxy. Looks really good......

[@JonDurbin]

@@scottgorman7166 Ah, I see. The problem I've had in the past with partially cured epoxy, for this type of project anyways, is that if the first layer is even a little malleable, the second layer can seep below the first, and you'll just have random floaty spots and in this case coffee beans poking through. When this has happened to me in the past, it was fairly well cured; I could indent it but it was not sticky, and eventually (over the course of several hours), almost all of the second layer seeped below the first and ruined the project.

[@mandonga1200]

Wow amazing job. Just wondering what's the cilindrical supports you used in order to elevate the cutting board from the table? Thank you very much!

[@JonDurbin]

Thanks! They are Rockler Work Bench Cookies: www.amazon.com/dp/B006N789W0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[@владимирдьякин-т4м]

КРАСОТА!!!

[@brainwashingdetergent4322]

What is this music? It’s quite nice.

[@JonDurbin]

The song is Vashisht by Itai Armon: www.itaiarmonmusic.com/

[@abbasb1374]

Nice job bro It seams its a Persian type music at beginning Am i right? What’s the name of song?

[@JonDurbin]

The music is Vashisht by Itai Armon, from artlist.io. He does indeed appear to specialize in Persian tar. www.itaiarmonmusic.com/#bio

[@travismcpherson9827]

Why not use a different finish? mineral oil/wax, osmo, rubio, even a float coat of epoxy? i'm honestly curious.

[@JonDurbin]

If I’m being perfectly honest, I did actually try a couple finishes on this exact project. First was Tried and True, but it was far too hazy and didn’t cure well on the epoxy. Rubio cured great, but was also a tad bit too hazy for my taste, obscuring the coffee beans. On the other end of the spectrum would be what I normally use, float coat of table top epoxy, but I though it would be a bit too glossy and I don’t have a great clean room to prevent dust nibs and the like. Urethane products bind well to the epoxy and wood, and gave just the right clarity and sheen for what I was after. Purely experimental, settled for what I thought looked best.

[@travismcpherson9827]

@@JonDurbin Thanks for the info on your thought process. I love the look.

[@Vision_Voyagers]

So 3/4 is just epoxy, it will get scratch marks real easy.

[@JonDurbin]

It's certainly a possibility, however I suspect the wood is more susceptible to scratching than epoxy resin. Epoxy has a Shore-D hardness of about 78+-1, depending on the brand, cure, etc., while wood has a much lower Shore-D hardness score. Unfortunately this chart doesn't have Walnut specifically, but you can see the values for similar (based on Janka hardness scale) wood species in Figure 1 here: bioresources.cnr.ncsu.edu/resources/effect-of-heat-treatment-on-shore-d-hardness-of-some-wood-species/ For example, Walnut Janka hardness = 1010lbf, and Teak Janka hardness = 1070lbf, and according to the linked study, Shore-D hardness of untreated Teak is only 59.1.

[@brainwashingdetergent4322]

GET OUTTA HERE!!!