Simple Ender Mod - Fake! CHT Clone Nozzle + How To Replace A Ender3 Nozzle

[@TheFishingHobby]

I’ve worked on electronics for a living for many years and I forget that not everyone is familiar with how to do that on live machines (which quite often is the only way to troubleshoot them). I was personally well aware of where all the wiring was and there was no way I would have shorted anything out, BUT I absolutely never stopped to think about making sure others were aware of that and suggesting if they weren’t experienced with working on live equipment then they should unplug the machine first. I wanted to pin this comment to the top of the list to say I should have approached this topic with an inexperienced persons frame of reference in mind.

[@SianaGearz]

BTW Slice Engineering sells a hotend thermal compound, boron nitride based i believe, which goes between the nozzle and the heaterblock into the thread and helps thermal transfer, helps release it easier. But i'm too cheap to pay Slice prices! So i tried copper brake grease that i already had at hand. I don't know if it did anything, but i didn't appreciate the smoke while it was curing-in. I do think the removal was OK afterwards, i don't remember exactly but i don't remember torturing myself either. Then i bought cheapest high temperature thermal paste from China, HY410. I recently removed a nozzle that i mounted on it and it came out easy, and also, it doesn't emit smoke. I should start writing things down a maintenance protocol or something like that. Because i thought i nickel plated a nozzle and installed that, and the plating seemed to be holding well, but when i now removed the nozzle, i couldn't see any trace of nickel on none of the surfaces, which is weird. Did i replace the nozzle in the interim with a plain brass one? Who knows! And if i did extract the nickel plated nozzle earlier, then where is it, why isn't it in my bag of emergency (will realistically never be used again) nozzles? Why don't i remember inspecting it? You don't just evaporate nickel, especially not from surfaces which are inside the hotend and well hidden. Mystery. Also i always forget trying to remove a nozzle cold, which would be convenient. Always heating it up :D

[@jackykoning]

Printing just fine at 120mm/s on the Ender 3 v2 Neo with 0.8mm nozzle. Ordered some fake CHT nozzles with PTFE coating because the filament keeps sticking to the nozzle at lower temperatures due to curling and it likely isn't melting the filament fast enough. So I figured I might as well try it. Higher temperature prints perfectly if the filament is dry so I am using that for now. The spool is in a 4L cereal box with a bag of car desiccant at the bottom that I cut open and emptied. It's keeping the humidity at about 10% which is probably the lower limit of the sensor I am using so it might be lower. The spool is made of cardboard and I noticed it takes weeks for the desiccant to dry it so what I do now is when I take it out of the package I put it in the oven at 80c for 30 minutes with air circulation turned on and it only takes 3 hours now to get to the humidity in the box to reach 10%. You might want to try using a container with desiccant as well and see if that allows you to increase printing speeds. You do have to design your own mechanism to hold the spool of the bottom to prevent grinding (unless there is a design for the box you are using) but that is not the biggest deal. I will be installing a different heatbreak and the CHT nozzle in a couple of days if you ask me to share my thoughts in a couple weeks I might just do it.

[@TheFishingHobby]

You are printing PETG at 120mm/s? I can print PLA fast but PETG I have to slow down considerably (about half the max PLA speed or prints start looking sloppy). I’m using the Ender 3 V1 MK8 style hot end though. I’m using generic bi metal heatbreak and the clone CHT nozzles with the MK8. The Neo series has a different hot end.

[@Plumpkatt1]

I am curious I have recently started using these in a V6 style nozzle. And my filament responds is if it has moisture in it I have lots of snapping and popping now have you experienced this?

[@TheFishingHobby]

I have not. I don’t keep my filament in a dry box or anything, but it is inside my house which is climate controlled. I only print with PETG, are you experiencing that with PLA?

[@JustMe-xd2vc]

Tuning my ender 5 pro now. Ive found that you have to increase nozzle temp to 215-218. Increase flow rate as well to supply more filament. Just my findings

[@TheFishingHobby]

I don’t use PLA, only PETG so I haven’t run anything at the temperature range you are working with using these nozzles. I’ll keep that in mind if I ever need to run some PLA, thanks for passing along your findings!

[@notyouraveragegoldenpotato]

Wow. I run my PETG at anywhere from 160 to 360 mm/s😂 and they come out immaculate. Big complicated prints too.

[@TheFishingHobby]

@@notyouraveragegoldenpotato I believe it if you are running a .4mm nozzle. I'm running a .8mm nozzle. Huge difference in volumetric flow between those two sizes.

[@bababaanarama]

Thats a butt. 😅

[@patcherandpatch]

Today I mounted one (0.4 mm) and the walls are so thin that the nozzle broke inside the Heat block 🥲

[@TheFishingHobby]

That’s a bummer! I haven’t had any issues with the ones I’ve bought but quality control isn’t very consistent amongst these sort of knockoffs for sure.