Thank you!

I wouldn’t recommend regular all purpose sewing thread. It tends to be very fuzzy and thin. You can use polyester machine embroidery thread, but there are some things you need to be aware of when using it. I made a video about that and it talks about that subject. Hope it helps you out! Can Polyester Machine Embroidery Thread Be Used For Rod Building? Let's Look At The Pros And Cons kzbin.info/www/bejne/e6aklZ2nqbiGgLM

This is what I have: a.co/d/iawKIuJ I have had that for over 10 years though and had to modify the antennas to get it to work for a long distance and through the walls of my house which required disassembly and soldering...not something that most would be interested in doing. I am sure there are other wireless thermometers on the market now that are better.

There is actually a speed button in the KZbin settings that pop up on the screen of the video. You can slow the video down if you need to. I understand what you are saying for sure. I’m always torn between letting people slow it down using the settings or leaving it in real time and having the videos be really long. I’m not sure there is a perfect solution that fits everyone out there.

It is pretty handy. Someone else mentioned to me that a bead works really well to tie on the string on the tip end because it will center itself in the tip top ring, I tried it myself and it works very well. I’d recommend that over the bottle cap that I used.

@@dongorsegner4607 no problem 👍

Thank you! I use Audacity to record my audio and Kdenlive to edit my videos and add in the audio clips.

I’m glad you liked it!

Thanks!

Nice find!

I would like to be more artistic, but I have to stay in my lane 😂

No problem, glad you liked it!

Subscribed with much thx 🙏

I really appreciate it. I have quite a few rod building videos, hopefully you find some things you find useful. If you have any questions, I’m always happy to help if I can. Take care!

@ thankyou

@@dontdoxmebro1780 This is a great question and I’m really glad you mentioned it! It is very normal for this style of dryer motor. If you watch this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqHJfqOBmqhgi7Msi=hUpPoPmI9NkGu_qX from about 3 minutes and 15 seconds in, I talk about the play in the shafts of these motors and how they should be considered a wear item that needs replacing periodically. I completely understand your concern, but it doesn’t cause a problem in the drying process as long as your rod blank is on blank supports that prevent it from wobbling around. For example, if you are drying on one of my jigs, there are elastic bands that hold the blanks down into the v shaped blank supports. This is where all of steadying of the blank takes place in the rod drying process. The dryer motor itself is simply there to rotate the blank and the chuck (mine or any other sort of chuck) is only there to provide a way to grip onto the rod blank. The steadying of the blank all takes place in the blank supports. One of the main reason I really like the rubber band style dryer chucks is due to the flexibility of the rubber bands themselves and how that makes the wobbly nature of the dryer motors even less of an issue. You really don’t want too rigid of a dryer chuck setup if you are using this style of dryer motor. These are by far the most common style dryer motor that rod builders use. They are inexpensive, work great for this application, are relatively quiet and use very little electricity. If you use them every day in a rod building business environment, you may need to replace a dryer motor every year or two. I build as a hobby and have never had to replace one. They are cheap enough that occasional replacements aren’t a big deal and I just think of them like brakes on a vehicle. If you put 10k miles a year on a vehicle, you will go several years without replacing your brakes. If you put 50k miles a year on a car you may replace your brakes every year. Same for these motors, how much you use them will determine how long they last. They are just like a wear item on a car in that sense. Sorry for the lengthy reply, but it was a great question so I wanted to provide a decent explanation not only for you but also anyone else who may also see this question. I want people to reach out and ask questions or mention any concerns they may have, so I appreciate you taking the time to do so and I’m really happy to see comments/questions here on KZbin so they can also provide answers for other people who may have similar questions. Have a great day and please feel free to reach out in the future if you have any other questions!

@@TheFishingHobbythank you for the detailed response. I relaxed the bands on my dryer as they were quite worn and the combination of that and adding tension to the rests greatly improve how round it was spinning. Do you ever plan on selling a higher RPM motor that can be used for finishing with your hand wrapping jig?

@@dontdoxmebro1780 yes, that is absolutely in the works. I have been working on the design regularly for quite a while now. I have the basics of the drive system worked out after a lot of experimenting and have started working on other parts of the setup now. I don’t have a timeline to offer, but I am continuing to work on it. It will be something that doesn’t currently exist and will have features not readily available all in one unit anywhere else. Without going into too much detail, the basics are that the system will have a pretty wide variable speed range. It is primarily an epoxy application setup, with a secondary function of power wrapping. It will not be made to replace a purpose built power wrapper, but it will give someone the option to power wrap if they need too on a build. It will still be primarily a hand wrapper setup. The setup will not be suitable for turning grips. I personally wouldn’t recommend turning grips on a power wrapper either. A lathe is much better suited for turning grips. It will also have “slip clutch-like” functionality built in for epoxy work as well as indexing capabilities for those who need it. It will be a unique setup but it is fairly complicated to sort out all of the details. I think people are going to really like it when it is completed.

Glad it helped!

@@Panicxc thank you!

I don’t know of any plans available online anywhere.

Thank you!

I just used the denatured alcohol that is available in the paint section of Lowe’s or Home Depot type stores. I did mix my epoxy first and then I added a drop or two at a time of denatured alcohol until the epoxy was runny. I would put it on pretty thin to get the look you want and then add a second coat (after the thin coat has dried) of epoxy mixed like you normally would as a finishing coat. I would highly recommend practicing this first before attempting a full build. It isn’t hard to do, but not quite as easy as a normal epoxy job. I hope that helps and I also hope you enjoy using the wrapper!

Thank you and I’m glad you like it!

@@mowaterfowl1479 I’m glad it helped!

Thank you!

It would be much slower than you can do by hand. I will have a high speed motor setup coming out for these jigs in the future

It is called a cross slide and they are found only on metal working lathes. Actually there were a few very old wood lathes that had them, but you aren’t likely to find one. They are pretty rare now. Almost all metal working lathes will have them with the exception of some jewelers lathes.

Thank you, I really appreciate that!

Thank you and it always makes me happy to hear from people who enjoy using these! It keeps me busy making them and I really enjoy doing it.

@@anselmooliveirasilva3939 I do not understand exactly what you are asking. I ran your comment through Google translate and it says: “I'm looking for a part that is coupled to the plate to which you can stop the process by hand without turning off the rotation and I couldn't find it.” I’m not sure what you are asking. I know translate isn’t always accurate, so maybe you could word it a little differently and I can try again?

YES!!!

@@jeffsousa6544 yes, I will have some for sale again this week. I made a change to the thread carriage that I will have to make a video about to show people what is different. It really isn’t a major deal, the thread carriage will still look similar and function the same, but I redesigned it so that it can fold up. I’ve had so many requests to start selling to customers in other countries that I just couldn’t ignore, so I needed a folding design for shipping purposes. The customer will need a number 2 Phillips screwdriver to remove 2 screws and reinstall them once the thread carriage is unfolded. It is a really simple process, but I didn’t want to start shipping them without giving a detailed explanation on a video first. I’m in the process of printing inventory of the new parts. It will look very similar to the old one, it fits the same way and all the angles are the same, it just requires unfolding and installing 2 screws. Thank you very much for asking about these, and I apologize for the delay, I just want to do things the right way and put the updated information out there for people to see before I started selling the slightly redesigned part. If you have any further questions please don’t hesitate to ask and you can always email me here: [email protected] Thanks again, have a great day!

No, but I’ll take that as a compliment!

@@dingydate it is not stainless steel but stainless steel spring wire would work. I use standard music wire .039” in diameter.

Small areas can be done by cutting into the epoxy and cutting off the frayed area then reapplying epoxy. If your whole wrap is frayed, best to remove it and start over again.

It holds up well but will yellow over time just like epoxy will eventually yellow. It has a more rubbery texture than epoxy. I would still recommend learning how to do epoxy work, but this isn’t a bad solution as a quick fix or for someone who is just wants to experiment with guide layouts on the same blank several times since it is easier to remove than epoxy.

@@sclogse1 Spar lacquer would probably be your best bet if the rod is old. That is what was most commonly used on older bamboo rods, so it should bond with the old finish.

@@PhilBeth-i1t the clear gorilla glue on the reel seat has yellowed some but still functions as it should. The polyurethane glue on the rod blank still looks and functions just like it did when it was applied.

@@shosking293 I’m sorry, I only ship to the USA.