@@notyouraveragegoldenpotato I believe it if you are running a .4mm nozzle. I'm running a .8mm nozzle. Huge difference in volumetric flow between those two sizes.

You can dry epoxy by hand turning! I actually made a video about it here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKm1pXtqma1-a5o

@@lmcollins_54 this isn't super glue, it is more like a rubbery type of adhesive. It is really interesting stuff.

That makes it pretty easy to get the coals lit and burning at the right pace.

I'm glad it turned out good for you! The drum smokers are so easy to control and use...they are almost like cheating haha!

@@TheFishingHobby If people only knew.

Your only 3 options to get this look are to buy pre twisted multi color thread (limited color options is the downside here), twist your own or do what I show in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mIbGpIFoo7Cnr9U I do now sell the little bobbin holders I show in that video, they make doing this look by hand a lot easier.

@TheFishingHobby ya i found the bobbin holder video i think that technique is better for the way I work

@@Outdoorzmerch I actually prefer doing it that way myself. It makes it easier to control the look of the wrap.

@@ianb4801 the DAM Quick line of reels is a good line of reels for sure. I own several different models myself. I personally like their ultralight models the most of that particular line of reels. I'm probably considered vintage myself 😂

It is just a small diameter knitting needle. I talk about it just a bit around 2:35 into the video. I use a lot of different tools (including my fingernails) for straightening up and burnishing threads. It really doesn't matter too much what you use to do that as long as the tool you are using doesn't fray your thread.

@@TheFishingHobby Thank you !

No problem!

@@DavidHorvath-nf3vf size A would be perfectly fine for that type of rod 👍

Glad it was useful to you!

I use the knee trick. Sit in a chair and put your rod under your legs. Put your hands on each side of your rod with your arms inside of your knees, squeeze your legs together while gripping your rod tightly. The idea is to use the strength of your legs while pushing the rod sections together while your hands grip the rod. If that explanation is not clear, google “telescopic rod knee trick” and you will probably find something more visually helpful. Good luck with it!

@TheFishingHobby I'm my god it's fixed, god bless you and thanks for the help

@@That_one_canadian good deal!

Hole size isn’t critical, anything 1” to 1.5” will be fine, evenly spaced and high enough from the bottom (4-5”) so ashes will sit below the holes. The holes around the bottom need to be below where your grate sits for the charcoal so air can come in under your coals. I put one hole above my charcoal grate so I can put my charcoal starter cubes in after putting my charcoal in and light it from the side. A very small amount of ash can fall out right there, but it worth it for the convince and ease of bottom lighting your charcoal.

@@TheFishingHobby thank you for the in fo I also subcribed

Thank you!

I used a 10.25” stainless steel grate for mine

@TheFishingHobby thank you. I have shown Larry BC fisher your video. He's been helping me

It was just the side of an ink pen or sharpie

I sold these a few years ago until Covid shortages permanently drove the materials costs up. I have a new jig that I 3d print now and sell. You can go to my channel homepage and see the video for it.

Thank you!

Punched with a hole punch by hand.

Thank you!

I wouldn’t recommend regular all purpose sewing thread. It tends to be very fuzzy and thin. You can use polyester machine embroidery thread, but there are some things you need to be aware of when using it. I made a video about that and it talks about that subject. Hope it helps you out! Can Polyester Machine Embroidery Thread Be Used For Rod Building? Let's Look At The Pros And Cons kzbin.info/www/bejne/e6aklZ2nqbiGgLM

This is what I have: a.co/d/iawKIuJ I have had that for over 10 years though and had to modify the antennas to get it to work for a long distance and through the walls of my house which required disassembly and soldering...not something that most would be interested in doing. I am sure there are other wireless thermometers on the market now that are better.

There is actually a speed button in the KZbin settings that pop up on the screen of the video. You can slow the video down if you need to. I understand what you are saying for sure. I’m always torn between letting people slow it down using the settings or leaving it in real time and having the videos be really long. I’m not sure there is a perfect solution that fits everyone out there.

It is pretty handy. Someone else mentioned to me that a bead works really well to tie on the string on the tip end because it will center itself in the tip top ring, I tried it myself and it works very well. I’d recommend that over the bottle cap that I used.

@@dongorsegner4607 no problem 👍

Thank you! I use Audacity to record my audio and Kdenlive to edit my videos and add in the audio clips.

I’m glad you liked it!

Thanks!

Nice find!

I would like to be more artistic, but I have to stay in my lane 😂

No problem, glad you liked it!

Subscribed with much thx 🙏

I really appreciate it. I have quite a few rod building videos, hopefully you find some things you find useful. If you have any questions, I’m always happy to help if I can. Take care!

@ thankyou

@@dontdoxmebro1780 This is a great question and I’m really glad you mentioned it! It is very normal for this style of dryer motor. If you watch this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqHJfqOBmqhgi7Msi=hUpPoPmI9NkGu_qX from about 3 minutes and 15 seconds in, I talk about the play in the shafts of these motors and how they should be considered a wear item that needs replacing periodically. I completely understand your concern, but it doesn’t cause a problem in the drying process as long as your rod blank is on blank supports that prevent it from wobbling around. For example, if you are drying on one of my jigs, there are elastic bands that hold the blanks down into the v shaped blank supports. This is where all of steadying of the blank takes place in the rod drying process. The dryer motor itself is simply there to rotate the blank and the chuck (mine or any other sort of chuck) is only there to provide a way to grip onto the rod blank. The steadying of the blank all takes place in the blank supports. One of the main reason I really like the rubber band style dryer chucks is due to the flexibility of the rubber bands themselves and how that makes the wobbly nature of the dryer motors even less of an issue. You really don’t want too rigid of a dryer chuck setup if you are using this style of dryer motor. These are by far the most common style dryer motor that rod builders use. They are inexpensive, work great for this application, are relatively quiet and use very little electricity. If you use them every day in a rod building business environment, you may need to replace a dryer motor every year or two. I build as a hobby and have never had to replace one. They are cheap enough that occasional replacements aren’t a big deal and I just think of them like brakes on a vehicle. If you put 10k miles a year on a vehicle, you will go several years without replacing your brakes. If you put 50k miles a year on a car you may replace your brakes every year. Same for these motors, how much you use them will determine how long they last. They are just like a wear item on a car in that sense. Sorry for the lengthy reply, but it was a great question so I wanted to provide a decent explanation not only for you but also anyone else who may also see this question. I want people to reach out and ask questions or mention any concerns they may have, so I appreciate you taking the time to do so and I’m really happy to see comments/questions here on KZbin so they can also provide answers for other people who may have similar questions. Have a great day and please feel free to reach out in the future if you have any other questions!

@@TheFishingHobbythank you for the detailed response. I relaxed the bands on my dryer as they were quite worn and the combination of that and adding tension to the rests greatly improve how round it was spinning. Do you ever plan on selling a higher RPM motor that can be used for finishing with your hand wrapping jig?

@@dontdoxmebro1780 yes, that is absolutely in the works. I have been working on the design regularly for quite a while now. I have the basics of the drive system worked out after a lot of experimenting and have started working on other parts of the setup now. I don’t have a timeline to offer, but I am continuing to work on it. It will be something that doesn’t currently exist and will have features not readily available all in one unit anywhere else. Without going into too much detail, the basics are that the system will have a pretty wide variable speed range. It is primarily an epoxy application setup, with a secondary function of power wrapping. It will not be made to replace a purpose built power wrapper, but it will give someone the option to power wrap if they need too on a build. It will still be primarily a hand wrapper setup. The setup will not be suitable for turning grips. I personally wouldn’t recommend turning grips on a power wrapper either. A lathe is much better suited for turning grips. It will also have “slip clutch-like” functionality built in for epoxy work as well as indexing capabilities for those who need it. It will be a unique setup but it is fairly complicated to sort out all of the details. I think people are going to really like it when it is completed.

Glad it helped!

@@Panicxc thank you!

I don’t know of any plans available online anywhere.

Thank you!