Simple Engine Noise Diagnosis With A Complicating Twist - Observations Matter!

[@gueto70]

Last Christmas my youngest son came in town with his AC compressor chirping on a 99 XJ. Went through the same steps. pulled the belt still chirped. Pulled the valve cover and 4 rockers were dry. Dropped the pan, worn out rod bearing not making enough noise to hear yet. Spent his 2 week vacation learning how to rebuild his first engine.

[@yurimodin7333]

oooof......at least you caught it

[@diegosilang4823]

I had a 1996 Integra with AC compressor making funny chirping sound when AC turned on and lasted for couple of years then the compressor seized more likely low on oil. fortunately, the clutch mechanism wears off before snapping the belt.

[@BrandonLeeBrown]

The Jeep 4.0 6 cylinder and its 4 cylinder sister engine, do not like overreving. That will kill the Jeep engine bearings. Not overreving the engine and they can last a long time.

[@robertmaybeth3434]

That's a steep learning curve! Just what you want to be doing. I did an in-car O/H around year 2000, on my 1988 Nissan Z-24 pickup truck. I was doing a valve job anyway, the truck had 180,000 miles, so I decided to change the rings too. The main thing i learned has, the results of frequent oil changes and how good they prevent engine wear. Honed the cylinders, reinstalled the pistons, torqued the head, reinstalled the timing chain and new timing chain tensioner (the only part that was visibly worn, actually). With everything back together, I finally turned the key. Engine cranked, no start! Rather than my usual reaction (cursing like a demon), I just sat and thought for a minute about what I'd just done on the engine. Finally I got out of the cab, went to the distributor, unbolted it, pulled it out, turned it 180°, and re-installed it. Turned the key and engine roared to life instantly.

[@wrongdrone8188]

Number 1 cause for this happening is your car finding out you have some extra money.

[@zach9292]

I spent all my money and my truck stopped misfiring…

[@isfahelww]

60% of the time, it happens every time.

[@fastinradfordable]

That’s why I make sure my car knows I might be homeless again any moment so you better not break down or you’re going to the junk yard

[@yurimodin7333]

🤣

[@oneofmany1087]

Jeep, just empty every pocket!

[@adamrosen7937]

Taking us through your thought process is very valuable. These lessons give me the insight to work through my own mechanic challenges. Every video is fantastic.

[@Gamefreak8112]

Congrats Brian, thank you for teaching me a new noise Uncle Tony!

[@termonostruman]

the problem is not the rocker arm....

[@wilsondriver654]

@termonostrumanbut the noise is…

[@newcitycarpet3675]

Ouch, sorry for the bad news. I was confident it was an accessory bearing noise but that's why I watch and learn. Thanks UT

[@lccdan1]

Thank the good Lord that you have the metal valve cover instead of the plastic one.

[@scottlagasse3182]

Dang! Old school in the vehicle engine bearings, rings re-fresh. Brings back memories.

[@fastinradfordable]

It’s new school too I did a in frame on my daily and only had 1 day off work. Pistons and rod bearings. Commuted the very next day 60 miles each way.

[@kachmi]

Watching Uncle Tony is always an education in auto care no matter your make and model.

[@joea9608]

Next week on UTG " Can you Slant 6 Swap an XJ?" 😁

[@ibraunchy20-vn5kd]

Or how to change the blinker fluid

[@datasecure5790]

I would watch it 👍👍👍👍

[@joea9608]

@@datasecure5790 Me too

[@jessieharris1676]

I've found a spun cam bearing a couple of times in those AMC six cylinder engines.

[@Blizzard9500]

Thank you, beat me to it. Turned bearing=blocked oil passage.

[@Hillbillygarage1215]

@Blizzard9500 yeh thats gonna be fun to watch line boring the cam journals in the engine bay.

[@fastinradfordable]

@@Hillbillygarage1215you don’t have to line bore cam bearings unless you’re redoing the whole block. Just knock some in with a hammer it’ll be fine.

[@vilefly]

I like this "stump the mechanic" game. Rather informative and an excellent teaching method. Only ran across a few, but by the time they bring it to me, the pushrod has drilled into the rocker arm, skewering it and making it very obvious. The only similar noise was the cam sensor/oil pump drive unit on Fords. Ford calls it a synchronizer, but it's not the most accurate name.

[@BareRoseGarage]

spot on! I thought of Ford on this as well, and for the same reason

[@jamesblair9614]

That’s a thorough diagnosis, most people would have replaced the rocker and or pushrod and called it done.

[@fastinradfordable]

Just drill a hole in the valve cover and dribble some in when it gets loud

[@bryanspanjer3213]

Wrong, I would run a heavier oil as a Band-Aid

[@gulfy09]

Put a drill in the oil pump and see the oil flow

[@paradislarry]

In 1973, we just poured a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil into the Valve Covers, ran the engine for a while, then changed the oil, then crossed our fingers. 😎 REPEAT as necessary 🤣

[@juspete5527]

You can leave it in there for the duration of the oil change. It's a additive

[@howiefeltersnatch2973]

​@@juspete5527 I'm guessing they were changing the oil afterwards hoping any shavings would be in the pan or filter.

[@shadowopsairman1583]

It still works today with lifters

[@dirkfrohnapfel6741]

My dad fought me that in the 70’s also and I do it first to this day

[@bryanspanjer3213]

Try that first, yes

[@FLINTmitten810]

I would love to hang out with uncle Tony and wrench on cars all day. My favorite auto channel on here by far.

[@shangrila73eldorado]

He's got a Staten Island temper problem 🤣🤣🤣

[@fastinradfordable]

I met him once. He’s just as amazing in person!!!! He was super duper cool. He gave me swag. Loved on my dog. Checked out my ride. And gave me a car part to put on it!!!

[@shangrila73eldorado]

@@fastinradfordable I know he's cool but he was recently talking about how Staten Island made him a different person, an angry person​

[@FLINTmitten810]

@@shangrila73eldorado haha him and I would get along just fine.

[@FLINTmitten810]

@@fastinradfordable that’s a cool story! I imagine he’d be a really cool & down to earth guy to be around. You can tell he’s got a good heart and one of the last good ones we’ve got left.

[@shangrila73eldorado]

Very interesting detective video and tutorial. I'm learning well, Tony.

[@kwslife116]

Friend had a bronco 2 4cyl and he ran a line from an oil port through the cover to the rockers and dripped oil over them. 😆 worked for years.

[@NaomiSims-w5g]

A good mechanic has a good ear.

[@dadalebreton184]

I knew it from something else than the pulleys they way you specificaly gave hints. I experienced the same noize from a 440 crankshaft bearing and it sounded so much like it! More metals rubs than belt. It was a great challenge. Thanks!

[@clutchkicker392ison5]

Nice 1 Brian. 5 stars .

[@robertwest3093]

I would love to see this engine completely rebuilt with a few performance improvements like a milled and ported head, upgraded exhaust system, and a mild cam that would increase street performance.

[@BrianHornak]

WOW.. a rocker arm.. I would have never remotely considered that

[@stephenh.bunkybyrd2024]

Nice learning, Tony. Thanks

[@throttlewatch4614]

I rebuilt my LS in the car in my suburban I didn’t do bearings though put in rings and cam and lifters 4 years ago still going strong

[@shadowopsairman1583]

The plain bearings in a LS typically dont have problems

[@fastinradfordable]

@@shadowopsairman1583most main bearings will last the life of the car.

[@James-hd4ms]

What a beautiful engine. Thank you AMC.

[@termonostruman]

thats why they sold it cheap...

[@kelsycunningham8452]

​@termonostrumannothing cheaply done with those old 4 liters. The slants and AMC 6's were two of the best ever built.

[@fastinradfordable]

Beautiful engine chirping as it goes rusted metal on metal carnage inside😂

[@mrkultra1655]

Thanks Tony

[@malcombailey8590]

Great video

[@mikechasse1016]

I knew it was the rocker arm squawking. My 79 Monza 4 banger had the exact same noise. when it hit 10.000 mi. The cure was to add GM posi additive. Did it for like 4 oil changes in a row and the noise finally stayed away.

[@FunWithCars716]

Cool, an In frame overhaul on an XJ👍

[@LeapFrog_Radio]

UTG let's go!

[@FerdinandAkin]

This looks like a job for Marvel Mystery Oil. Flood the thing with stoddard solvent and see what happens.

[@jamest.5001]

Dogs are awesome!✌️

[@paul2lane236]

@ Uncle Tony's Garage My thinking is that it is not loss of oil pressure at a main bearing but a restriction somewhere. These AMC motors are known to run forever. Think about this... If the front main bearing was shot the loss of pressure would still be pretty much the same throughout the oil galley that's feeding the ALL the lifters. Also...If there actually was a difference in pressure, front to rear, the rockers appearance would gradually degrade from the most rear to the next one going forward. In your case, there is a definite difference in the 2 central rockers(cylinders 3&4) which are very close to one another. In other words, these 2 central lifters should be receiving the same oil pressure if the front main bearing was worn. Capiche? The 1st thing I would co is dump a little oil in the dry rocker, then run it to see what the oil flow looks like in all the rockers, front to rear. Being a retired Ford tech, I know how it is to work on your own vehicle, just costing you money instead of making money 🤥Maybe an engine oil flush is in order🤔 You got nothing to lose. Love watching your videos keep up the good work. PS: Check out the KZbin videos on Valveoline Restore & Protect.

[@robertqman5751]

Congrats Brian ..

[@johnweaver8470]

Looking forward to seeing what you find, keep the videos coming

[@TwentyOneBunSalute]

I just did lifters on my 5.2 Magnum looking for a ticking noise, mostly to eliminate possibilities. Found out a couple of my rocker arm pairs had received enough gap to make a tick sound. After getting through that and re-stethoscoping, I found I have an exhaust manifold leak on the same side I had the loudest ticking lol

[@gtproductions0109]

🎉congrats Brian!!! #uncletony'sgarage #utg I've replaced a head on a 97 jeep s6. I actually enjoyed it, I've changed many heads on many motors in my millennial years, I end up enjoying all of them, it's like an old skool puzzle set.

[@JetBlake-sv3gs]

thanks for the explanation

[@Hybridknfgrowchannel]

Indeed these engines started to really have these issues when in 93 or 95 they switched to tuppy heads wich are absolutely crap! This won't be your last issue you fix one thing you will have another get a pre 95 head before tuppy or the badass Edelbrock aluminum head for big HP increase. These heads crack alot or end up with rocker issues very strange although it doesn't look like this issue is because of the head so you're probably all good I'll be doing a rebuild on my 99 Cherokee 4.0 in the vehicle as well it can be done! Jeep people unite!

[@grad0n]

The flawed cast 0331 heads were found in 00&01 jeeps and were deemed "non-tupy". The updated tupy 0331 heads were in the tjs 02-06.

[@marktimberlake4493]

@@grad0n also Grands had the Tupy head

[@sriles1676]

Looking forward to the teardown!

[@andrewwasson6153]

Ok, now I’m hooked. I need to know which bearing is the problem and I’m kind of curious about you doing the rebuild with the engine in the vehicle.

[@JH-oh1in]

My old 232 amc (74 gremster) had a bad head, I found one in a junkyard . Mine was shaft mount rockers replacement was bridge style (Pacer). So it didnt oil through the push tube like it should... So I put a T in the oil psi sender ran a tube through the top of the valve cover with oil holes drilled in it. Ran that way for years.

[@SweatyFatGuy]

Way back in the 90s, I put a set of heads on a 455 that were said to be good. Well, the valve seals fell apart in those heads, and I found bits of them everywhere. Some made it through the oil pump screen and pump, and clogged the oil passage to the lifter galley on one side of the engine, so the pushrods/rockers got no oil. Had to tear it down completely and clear out all the plastic bits. Put it back together with all the same parts but new valve seals, then daily drove (and raced) it for 12 years. Now when I get a set of heads from someone, I am taking them apart to check everything and replace the seals. Wasn't a chirp, but it was a very loud rattle...

[@karlsracing8422]

My dad's oil pu.p was loose so he tightened it and made a spray bar to lube the rockers.

[@RandallSoong-pp7ih]

Excellent!!

[@111000100101001]

Looking forward to the tear down and rebuild. Some would fill it with kerosene and hold it to the wood till it started oiling or threw a rod, smart move on your part.

[@zakuraayame5091]

don't forget to like and comment to help the channel if you got some info/entertainment! thanks for the video

[@87fubar]

never seen 4.0 do that one wonder what the lifter bore looks like

[@jmshssk2]

Ive used a piece a tubing with one end in my ear with the other in the engine compartment to pin point noises

[@stevemiller7654]

May I suggest a simple check of the push rod to be sure it is a clear oil passage, but since the whole front of the engine is running shy on oil, it is likely not to be the PR....

[@rageracing6435]

Ah! You stumped me. I did not guess rocker arm but makes sense. I thought head gasket possibly between cylinders. Nice video!

[@timmcooper294]

Cam bearing is super likely !! I have had really bad cam bearings causing issues , even though the rods and mains were fine.

[@brokentoolgarage]

Wow that was a good one. Never seen that, but I deal mostly with small Mopar. I think I could have found that if I was there to pinpoint the noise

[@benjamintresham9649]

Top bush in the distributor. Sounds the same. They all look dry Bugger Camshaft bearing hey Dex👍🏻

[@miketee2444]

I'm a big fan of these motors but more so the 4.2s. You've got me wondering now if this diagnosis isn't also connected to the somewhat common piston breaking seen on 4ltr center cylinders.

[@jasonpollock1731]

It be great to change to a different viscosity to see if it improves. for the average guy like myself who can’t afford an engine and rebuild or even the gaskets to see if I can get a little further save some coin for a rebuild.

[@JohnDoe-ef3wo]

miss those jeeps big time. wish they made them again but its just a dream 😞😞

[@wrenchinwithgrandpa4586]

Always enjoy re-learning about the old school Wrenchin’!👍👍👍

[@AtZero138]

The Way of the GEARHEAD MONK... 🇺🇸👍

[@kennethcohagen3539]

I had a 95 Cherokee. It developed a chirping sound that was definately tied to engine speed. I took a piece of heater hose and tracked it down to the distributor. I added a can of marvel mystery oil to the engine and it was gone by the time I got to work the next day.

[@HipstersAndHippies]

And the lord provides, the perfect opportunity to keep you at work and advancing everything along. without eating into your time too much or distract you. To me, this totally spills over into mission improbable also. Okay hear me out, my thoughts are to start collecting and setting aside 4.0 rockers. So you can pick the best ones later to be 'smoothed over' a little bit for the mission improbable engine. (Side note: Most people claim factory 4.0 rockers are not good over 5,000Rpm. Then they deflect too much and you need aftermarket ones. lol) Also, grab a bunch of pushrods too. im thinking you want the longest factory ones for the current stage. After that, make sure the oiling hole through the pushrods has a decent chamfer. No sharp edges, i know You know what i mean. And then finally, acually put a polish finish all around the pushrods to cut friction, and assist the oil clinging to both the ball/cup ends. but also the sides of the pushrods too. I would take multiple steps and stages on the ball ends to get practically a mirror shine. (I cant wait until we can swap sping rates and posibly lighter weight pushrods, along with the camshaft and intake manifold.)

[@GrumpyUnkMillions]

Most pushrods are fed from the lifters. The lifters are fed from the lifter gallery. The gallery has a plug on the forward face of the block. If that plug leaks or pops out,, you will lose pressure in the gallery, with most guhing out onto the timing chain or nearby. I do not know AMC sixes oil flow...

[@shanew.williams]

This kind of basic diagnostics is gained through many years of experience, then just putting the "clues" together. When our generation of gearheads ages out, i fear this type of diagnostics will be lost on the current "disposable" oriented generation.

[@sometimesleela5947]

Does the front oil galley have a plug that you can pull out and get a gauge in?

[@pisstoffcat5136]

Dex jeeps did a video on a issue similar, was the cam bearing hole not lined up properly.

[@raybrensike42]

Put in a high-volume oil pump? Cheap fix or cheapest attempt to fix?

[@mikerobinson3672]

If I remember, you put a piston and ring set in that engine becaused you had one that cracked and broke apart. Did debris from the damaged piston maybe get pulled into the lubrication system and clog something up?

[@d.noneyabusiness8523]

It could be a blocked or a plugged up oil passage That goes to the front end of that engine and not necessarily too much slop in the main cap or the thrust bearing caps Just a thought maybe there's some debris clogging up the oil passage to the front half of the engine I would check that 1st Maybe there is something wrong with the oil pump That's probably where I would start I wouldn't jump right into taking the whole motor apart.

[@HardwayRanch]

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE! Try an aggressive engine flush before you take anything apart. Run 50/50 ATF and kerosene(red diesel works too) at a high idle for 20 minutes. Drain and change the filter. Flush again with cheap new oil. Drain & change the filter. Top up with good oil and check for the squeak. Let us know.

[@FastidiousFlynn]

This would be great to see tested!

[@mongo64071]

Maybe try Scotty Kilmer favorite oil treatment, ATS 505 oil treatment

[@61rampy65]

@@mongo64071 If Scotty likes it, then it's probably no good.

[@mongo64071]

@@61rampy65 I disagree. I’ve tried the AT205 reseal he recommends for rubber seals and it works great. I haven’t tried the ATS stuff so I can’t comment except that he’s used it on customer cars in videos and it has worked.

[@HipstersAndHippies]

You'll never beat the engine flush from BG. You need a friend with a shop to get it, since it's not sold to the public. A true flush involves bg flush in the oil, and a bottle of Cat-A-Clean in the fuel tank. It would clean the o2 sensors, catalytic combustion chambers, exhaust valves, exhaust port, catalytic converter, and it could losen up certain stuck EGR valves. along with sludge and varnish on the inside of the engine. Just remember to get an additional 10qts so you can add 5qt and run for 10 seconds. Change the oil again, and repeat. THEN throw your choice of oil in the thing and send it.

[@tonypace2009]

Good oil pressure which does sugest it's not esesive clarence? But a plugged or partially restricted oil passage will also read good presure if the sending unit for the pressure gauge is located at the point oil passage has best flow . Would be nice if there was a way to get a pressure sending gauge hooked up to the front of the block passage? If it is oil passage can that be cleaned and cleared whither engine in the vechical ??😢 Honestly I have two jeeps one needs a rebuild and the other i may having to pull the motor on it runs but has a ticking/knock sound I am thinking it is a cracked flex plate . It's a 2001 and yes it overheated previous owner buggard up the thermostat. So had a cracked head that I have replaced not sure if the overheat caused the tick /knock so as of now guessing piston slap or flex plate? Is that block the one that was part of the 4.0 rebuild ? The one where you showed how to hone and asemble at home ? Or did I miss the asembly part you was waiting on a head or something to finish???😊 Being as I dont have a shop or even concreat or even a tree with over hanging limbs . Looking foward to see how fixing while still in vechical goes.

[@gustav25897]

The oil control issue could also be the front galley plug being missing (unlikely) or not fitted properly. also, sheck your cam thrust plate and oil bleed.

[@Solargeek]

Love the big pharma commercial Uncle Tony! 'Phfeiser' pumping money into pumping everyone full of the autoclotic transmissions.

[@edbeck8925]

Try Valvoline restore and protect

[@karlsracing8422]

I said that to because it happened to my dad's jeep

[@YODAMAN5]

AWESOME....have fun....MOPAR 4 EVER.

[@JohnSmith-1234]

A spun camshaft bearing can also prevent a rocker arm from getting oil as it did on my 1975 Mustang II with a 171 cu in (2.8 L) V6.

[@EdKeen-sr5xs]

Could you blow air through front half see if it’s crud

[@petar443]

12:39 When you're starting the disassembly Tony?

[@wilsondriver654]

Could it not be a blockage of some sort in the oil gallery towards the front?

[@josephszot5545]

Does Jeep have a screen in the oil filtering system internal the filter housing that might be partially blocked?

[@igokarts4510]

That chirp was your battery in your smoke detector going bad

[@johnmcmullen456]

If a smoke detector that chirp must always start in the middle of the night.

[@harrylister804]

Try some Valvoline Restore and Protect, except you have to keep running it like that until it clears the crud that's causing the problem. For that reason, I'd try some LiquiMoly Engine Flush, or BG flush. I'm using the Valvoline on my Toyota and it has stopped vibrating at idle and oil consumption is ~50% less after 1500 miles, i.e. I went from 1/2 quart in 800 to 1500. I'm guessing the vibration was gummed up rings and the Valvoline is cleaning them up.

[@bryanspanjer3213]

I'm surprised the topic of oil pressure didn't come up. It must be mentioned in cases like this

[@mikegreer9041]

My son and i were going on a wet and muddy trip in his xj. I thought I'd be smart and seal his distributor. I sealed the cap and wires like i used to do to my bogger and also the vent/drain on the bottom of the distributor. The next thing you know, it started chirping like yours was, and it was coming from the distributor. I lubbed up the shaft and the chirp went away. Only for about a day. I came to the conclusion that the distributor shaft gets lubbed from blowby, and it needs a vent. Who knows

[@adamtrombino106]

A factory service manual will show you the oiling system travel, start to finish. That would take a lot of guess work outta is it a spun cam bearing, or a loose main.

[@MrAniven]

Seafoam the beast

[@aired-downdisconnected4125]

Water pump, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, AC. XJ owner here. I know things. Oh there's also some sensor that ticks on the passenger firewall that's for the ac. Normal.

[@tinkersspeedshop8401]

😂 i thought i had seen enough😂 Nope that ones a new one too me😂 Not many 4.0 vehicles live around me long enough to have this failure😂

[@kuhndog-1196]

Yeah never would have guessed rocker arm lol. Is this a common problem with the 4.0?

[@grad0n]

No

[@DanielP-c9g]

Lets hope that fresh oil filter hasnt been manufactured badly, you know quality control aint as good as it used to be

[@322skimteller]

There's one older video of a guy with a total distain for fram oil filters , shootin' at them , pissing on them .

[@DanielP-c9g]

@322skimteller that sounds like a funny video, id like to see it.

[@ryank5688]

@322skimteller kinda anecdotal but, my experience with fram makes me leave them on the shelf if at all possible. Heard from enough places that nearly 25% of their filter media weren't glued together properly and would bypass dirty oil... Sure enough, the 4th one I opened had a corner of the seam in the pleats folded over when it was glued, leaving roughly 1/4" hole for dirty oil to pass...

[@shadowopsairman1583]

Whipcity wrench has been doing filter reviews

[@paradislarry]

Just because it is a new Oil Filter, How do you know it is a good oil filter ? Seems worth the 10 bucks.

[@vintage76vipergreenBeetle]

Could be a defective oil filter.

[@erikturner5073]

I would go with cam bearings. From my experience Mopar's seem to have issues (mainly 360 and 318) with cam bearings, especially if the engines didn't receive regular oil changes . I would not be surprised if that straight 6 has similar issue.

[@Fog66]

What if the blocks oil passage is clogged?

[@mikecore1637]

Hey Tony a u tube guy ( not a motor manic ) let people know that oil galley was wrong and it should be gallery as in art .Every body I know says galley and would laugh at gallery any thoughts ? I wrote sure but galley stuck and change oil for food ,it serves oil up where you go to get your oil , it comes from there .That's the place .Food /oil is delivered there.

[@sethtroue4246]

This is great content. Keep up the good work

[@matttravers5764]

The same thing happened to a car I had in the early eighties. Was a 351 Cleveland with plugged lifters so no oil was getting up to at least 3 lifters on the drivers side

[@ryanrohauer5940]

could one of the rear most lifters be bleeding to much oil cuasing the oil contorl issue

[@johnb3959]

I’d try a new Wix oil filter first for $10. Especially if it’s a fram on there.

[@WiSeNhEiMeR-1369]

= WOW - Oil Distribution problem = not common on an AMC I-6 Engines Thanks COOP ...

[@WiSeNhEiMeR-1369]

HOWdy U-T-G, ... chirp - Chirp - CHIRPING Rocker-arm great AMC Siamesed ROCKERS Thanks COOP the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ...