Simplicity 700 725 B1 Garden Mark Wiring made simple!!

[@bradleonard6816]

6/26/2023 Great job explaining the electrical on these old lawn tractors!!! Very helpful Zippo!!

[@scottyfisk5807]

thank u for the quick run down, me wires. excellent advisery, Scotty

[@adamlotyczewski6478]

super informative! I have the same setup in my old 7016 and it will help me figure out how to get it back running. Thanks Zippo!!

[@ZippoVarga]

My pleasure Adam! Zip~

[@marksanna3856]

You seem very familiar with these tractors and have much more knowledge than I about electrical things. LOVE your videos!!!

[@theluth9046]

This is gonna be great help for me as I was lucky enough to get me a 725 at a sale this past weekend. She is complete, just needs some good going over and some TLC and this video will sure help me when I ever get to the wiring! Thanks so much for sharing, great show me video, like to have things pointed out to me! Take care!

[@ZippoVarga]

That's why I do them Luth! I'm glad this video will help. Theres dozens more on these tractors, so root around on my channel for more helpful videos. Cheers! Zip~

[@theluth9046]

@@ZippoVarga Yep, I plan on doin some rootin around! Thx again!

[@TheStihl211]

Hey Zippo! Loved the video, I have 4 725’s two run even though one has a blown rear and two don’t. I’m going to start restoring the two that run they are both in great condition but both leak gear oil I’m looking forward to the projects and this video definitely helps! Thank you!

[@kennylewis1050]

Will do I appreciate your time and your videos are awesome stay up 🤜

[@ZippoVarga]

po dunc, thank you very much for that information. I didn't stop to explain the reasons why a regulator needs polarized, so I'm glad you chimed in there for all to read. Cheers!!

[@gearbanger57]

Just fixed 3 things that were wrong on a B1 i just aquired. Thanks Zippo

[@ZippoVarga]

I typically use 14 gauge wire to the regulator and a standard automotive type battery cable for the Starter/Generator. Just remember.....Battery post on the Regulator to the positive terminal of the battery. This wire is what charges your battery, so make sure it's on the pole of the starter button that is connected to the battery and not the pole that goes to the starter/generator. Take it easy Tyler!! Glad I could help!!

[@Squire9wards]

As always Great video. I learned something new. What really need though is a all original views of the wiring. I am trying to wire my garden mark as Original as possible. I know they used wire looms on some of the wiring .That is what I need. If you understand me I tend to confuse people. Thanks David

[@ZippoVarga]

+David H Ah, ok David! If you are on Facebook, look me up there. I can send you a file on your machine with the wiring diagram. Cheers!! Zip~

[@TheBigspoon1]

Zippo love the video, I am rewiring my SS14 Sears and this video helped out alot thanks... awesome job

[@miltonpoole8612]

Thanks for the fast reply Zip, I will ck the videos...I cleaned the regulator contacts with light sand paper and got ignition...I use your videos quite often as they are spot on with adjustments.......Thank again Semper Fi

[@not2fast4u2c]

I am here and I am learning this stuff

[@ZippoVarga]

You are correct! Bat to Gen to polarize. Expect it to spark and possibly turn the engine over when you do this. It's normal, so just make sure you're no where near the starter when you polarize. Looking forward to hearing that you're all up and running!!

[@TheJerseyhillbilly]

This video is exactly what ive been looking for! I just picked up a simplicity landlord 3310v and it is a wiring nightmare as far as the starting generator and regulator go. I cant even call whats on there now a regulator. It looks almost like an egg with a ton of spliced wires coming off it. The guy that had it before I did rigged this whole setup and its a nightmare. Ive added this video to my favorites and I will use it a lot when I go to put everything back together. Great videos thanks!!

[@rdmanone]

Just bought my first Simplicity 2012. I had to use your wiring video and got it working. I have to clean the carb but no problem. The big deal is the Bevel Gear box. Got some work to do on that. The output shaft is very loose.

[@ZippoVarga]

It is wired the same exact way with the same wires connecting to the same places. It's a little different only in the engines orientation being a vertical shaft instead of horizontal. Gen to Gen, Bat to Bat and "F" to "F". Don't forget to polarize the regulator with a short wire to short circuit between the Bet and Gen. Never short the engine from the Field to any other pole on the Regulator or Starter Generator. Cheers!

[@heliarche]

Ok that clears it up.I have a big foot starter switch and I'm thinking I might be able to use the regulator from a Beetle I tore down for parts for my '71. It looks similar. If not, a few of the local guys do have old regulators around. If I really have to, I can bite the bullet and buy one new.

[@davereekers1370]

Good day, I recently purchaced a 3314V. It came with a bulldozer blade, 48" deck, single bottom plow, cultivator, and roto tiller attachments. So far all works great, except I can not figure out how to hook the deck up to the power lift mechanism. Any comments or videos would be much appreciated. Your other videos have helped greatly.

[@1944johndeerel]

@ZippoVarga being positive ground and slightly different than the conversion i had researched i kinda had to modify the wiring to meet my needs and make the system function properly. now it charges fully automatically i can actually watch the guage jump from high to low charge by itself and i did have to polarize my gen to get it charging. its easy once you do it once or twice and get a feel for how the whole thing works.

[@ZippoVarga]

@slowride55 You got it Tyler! What ever you hook up, whether it be a horn or lights, you will just make sure the horn or light is grounded to the engine or frame of the tractor, then run one wire to the regulator and the other to the lights or horn.

[@500passwords]

great video zippo . i favorited this one cause i suck at electrical work . lol only thing you left out was correct wire gauges in case your building new harness. do more videos like this on wiring . thumbs up from 500.

[@Remington7Magnum]

Thank you so many times This is what we have been looking for a long time...

[@Eddie-jj3cz]

THANK YOU!!! you make it so simple

[@ZippoVarga]

The coil should not be hooked up to anything but the points and spark plug. Then one wire only to the kill switch. No other wires to the engine at all. The Starter, starter solenoid and regulator work harmoniously BUT independent of the electrical workings of the engine. Keep this in mind when you are wiring everything up. Hope this helps!

[@brian242]

For sure, just took a peek at mine, I think a rewire maybe in the cards, and I noticed a white wire going into the to points area is cracked clean but touching, this must be the kill wire.

[@ZippoVarga]

with all wires hooked up and ready to go, use a scrap piece of wire to polarize and only hold it on there for a couple seconds. Just enough to set the regulator and S/G up to charge. No solenoid, and the regulator doesn't act as a solenoid. Just use heavy battery wires to the starter button and if you can't find a starter button like the one on this video, they're available on ebay and other places.

[@ZippoVarga]

@Cod4Killa07 The best way if you don't have a spark tester is to take the plug out, lay it on the top of the engine with the coil end plugged onto the top of the spark plug and crank the engine over. A bright blue spark should jump across the plug gap. I have a couple videos on checking spark that shows another means to check spark.

[@ZippoVarga]

@slowride55 No and they don't need to be. As long as you run the second smaller wire from the post that you connect the battery to it doesn't matter.

[@skippyjones4195]

Hahaha great job brother 👍

[@ZippoVarga]

@vega196423 Which voltage regulator depends on the type of starter/generator. Horizontal shaft Briggs used mostly 3 poll regulators after 1963. Before 1963 the starter/generator was a short frame and used a two poll regulator. The two pole for the short frame is #122044 and lone frame #122193. If you don't have the stock regulator, tell NAPA it MUST be a 40amp or less regulator with Bat/Gen/Field/Acc poles on the regulator. This will work with the majority of all starter generator run engines.

[@wckdkl0wn]

@ZippoVarga That makes sense now. Thank you for helping me understand that.

[@ZippoVarga]

The best way I can think to do this is to run the light off the "L" pole of the regulator and then ground the other wire to the chassis. When you start it and it begins to charge, the light will go from dim to bright. If you lose charging capabilities the light will dim out on you. To wire an actual gen light requires a module that prevents over loading to the light it self and it also self diagnoses and shuts the light off if there's a problem.

[@ZippoVarga]

@shadeyshader It will bolt right up and all the linkages are the same. The easiest way to do this swap is to remove the drive shaft, yolk that the drive shaft mounts to, the 4 bolts that hold the bevel gear box to the frame and all associated linkages. This is about an hour process with the right tools. Best of luck to you!

[@ZippoVarga]

@wckdkl0wn Coming off the Acc or BAT leg of the Regulator to power accessories will use the Starter/Generators charge first and the battery second. You can use the Battery directly if you wish, but if you have either a weak Starter/Generator or a faulty Regulator, then you will drain the battery with out knowing you have a problem. By wiring it the way I suggest, you will see the problem with the lights because they will dim on you. Thus giving you a heads up that something is wrong. Thanks!!

[@1944johndeerel]

@ZippoVarga pretty much, that and makesure your regulator says positive ground not negative ground on it. same with the gen and starter.

[@sic-n-tiredtired4273]

Excellent video on the wiring very helpful. I've learned so much watching your videos. I have a question I have a 1963 64 Simplicity landlord 101 I got a new battery for it. it will start to turn over but wont start the tractor, could my starter belt be too tight? It starts when I use the hand pull. Any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks.

[@ZippoVarga]

It's more likely that the starter generator is in need of repair. After 50 years, the bushings tend to wear out and when they do, the result is the armature that rides on the bushings gets pulled into the outer frame of the S/G and keeps it from spinning the engine over. Once the engine is started however, the S/G turns to charging mode so there is no force pulling on the bushing other than the belt tension. You might try loosening the belt a little, but if I were you, I would find a reputable automotive electrical shop to look at the S/G for you or source a replacement. Zip~

[@sic-n-tiredtired4273]

@@ZippoVarga awesome ill check into that. thank you so much for all the advice and help

[@ZippoVarga]

@TheBigspoon1 Glad it can help with other makes that used the Delco Starter Generator!!

[@butchmcintyre5196]

thanks for your help I understand how it works

[@ZippoVarga]

You must run a Regulator in order to charge the battery. Your local Napa can help you find the regulator you need. It's a 40 amp hr regulator, but you can use higher amperage regulators in a pinch. Best of luck to you.

[@RustyCarnahan]

I didn't word my question very well. If at all possible, I'd like to set up my charge indicator to where when I turn the key on (before the engine starts), a red light illuminates with it similar to what it would on an older car without a voltmeter. Basically no charge=light on. System charging=light out.

[@heliarche]

Yea there is a terminal on the underside of the regulator. It's not marked or anything. So assuming that's the "gen" position, I go from "gen" to "bat" to polarize? Anyhow, got my parts rounded up including a good heavy foot switch. Now it's just waiting for some warmer weather and I should be able to get on this. After that I need to come up with some running boards and move the seat up and back. With the 23-D in place of a Honda 5HP it should keep the front end down.

[@michaelwelcher8719]

I know that was a lot to say but I would buy it I struggle with just what you have been saying on my tractors a step by step on this and do a polarize on it

[@ZippoVarga]

No. This is when you are starting with items that either haven't been used in quite some time, or when putting a new regulator in place. If you ever come across a "no charge" situation, try polarizing the regulator again before replacing parts. Cheers!

[@vega196423]

Hey Zippo, hope all is well, I sure enjoy watching your videos. I have a B 1 AC, I was wondering of you have the aftermarket axle wheel oil seal part #.

[@ZippoVarga]

@64gthawk Sorry for the delayed reply! I have not been able to get to all my comments for a while. The max Amperage your regulator is set for is 45 amps. The lights won't draw anywhere near that and the starter generator should keep up just fine if it's working properly. Best of luck with your project Dave!! Cheers!!

[@ZippoVarga]

@Cod4Killa07 Do you mean a Starter for a Cub Cadet? If it had a Delco Remy Starter Generator, then about any similar starter generator will work as long as it's poled to turn the correct direction.

[@ZippoVarga]

@mikedasgerman Actually, the starter generators were an added option on these old machines. Rope starting them off the Bevel Gear Box works great as long as their tuned well. Check my recent video pull starting my tractors to see how easily they will start. Ebay is a good place to find decent used Starter Generators and a couple web sights to check out are Simpletractors dot commm and michaelstractors dot commm. Best of luck!!

[@ryanprueitt5920]

ok thank u ..keep up the great vids

[@pdunc1976]

hi zippo,i want to post this for everyone to explain the jumper wire between generator and battery terminals on regulator.as per delco remy,this is what is written,''to make sure the gen has the correct polarity w/respect to the battery it is to charge,after installation of reg,''momentarily'' connect a jumper wire between bat and gen terminals of reg,**before starting engine**. the momentary surge of battery current to the generator will correctly polarize it.i hope this may be of use to some.

[@georgewilliams6657]

Found it worked great you the man

[@ZippoVarga]

There should be a wire connection point under the regulator. This is where the "gen" wire goes. The "L" is your load terminal which is used for any accessories like lights or a cigarette lighter and a single wire goes from the "bat" terminal to the batteries positive lead. Let me know if the regulator you got has the terminal under the regulator.

[@ZippoVarga]

@brian242 There may be two wires coming from under the points cover......one would be the kill wire and runs to the dash and the other would run into the blower housing behind the carb. Hit me up if you hit a road block. Cheers!!

[@heliarche]

Hey again Zippo. The regulator I bought is a little different. it has, left to right, in this order, "L" "BAT" and "F". Would "L" be my gen position? I assume if that's the case then I tap that piece of wire across the "L" and "BAT" poles to polarize it. Had my starter working today, wings that engine over like a champ!

[@ZippoVarga]

@500passwords 14 gauge is sufficient for most rewiring tasks on these older machines. If you have a specific need just say the word and I'll do my best to help you out.

[@israelhandy-yi1jr]

Great video

[@slowride55]

So if i want to put lights or a horn on the 725.... I hook up a toggle or push button switch with 2 poles. I wire the lights or horn to one prong on the switch, and then run a wire from the other pole of the switch to the batt terminal on the regulator?

[@ZippoVarga]

@1944johndeerel It is all in the learning curve my friend. Next time you will be prepared and well educated!! Thanks for the comment my Friend!!

[@georgewilliams6657]

Do you gotta video explaining how to repair a voltage regulator like that one

[@64gthawk]

Awesome video! I have a '64 725. All original and stock. This is just what i needed for wiring my lights. One question I hope you can help my with regarding the lights. Will my charging system have enough output for two 50 watt halogen lights? I'm not sure what the amp draw will be or even how to find out. I know these tractors originally had one light in the middle (roughly 35 watt) but that will interfere with my snow blower chute. Looking forward to your thoughts. Thanks Dave

[@wckdkl0wn]

Ok question. You're saying run the lights to the battery post on the regulator correct? How is the regulator regulating the current if you attaching it to the battery side? Wouldn't that technically be the same as if it were hooked directly to the battery? Why not just run directly to the battery and put a fusable link inline?

[@JeffWigfield-vg4xr]

I’m suddenly getting no spark you had mentioned in your video on the wire from the switch going down to the wire on the points cover mine is like that but you talked about it grounding the points out and the wires are hooked to the cover in the cover and that is grounded so I guess I’m confused. I’m not sure if it’s wired correctly

[@ZippoVarga]

@1944johndeerel I've wired positive ground systems in the past and all I can say is that you have to do it looking in a mirror to get it right....lol.

[@ZippoVarga]

@brian242 Thanks Brian! Quick and to the point!! Just the basics, but it'll get ya running! Cheers!!

[@adamhoffoss5768]

Man, this is a GREAT video! I do have a question, if I may? I'm currently "restoring" (to working order) an old Mahindra 475-DI tractor. The Generator has 3 terminals on it: E - F - D. I know the "F" is field, but what are the other two? Also, I ordered a new regulator for it and the terminals are listed as "LIGHT-BATTERY-FIELD-ARMATURE". Again, I understand the Battery and Field, but not exactly sure with the other two? Anyways, your video has already been a tremendous help!

[@rhyseolney1475]

If you connect the battery post on the regular to the generator post of the generator won’t it try to crank over the starter because the generator side is also the starting side?

[@ZippoVarga]

Yes....This flashing process is completing the circuit, but is necessary in order to pair the regulator to the battery and generator. Zip~

[@rhyseolney1475]

ZippoVarga but if the battery is connected to the gen wire it will crank the starter over

[@shadeyshader]

woulds trans out of a mid 60s landlord be a compatible replacment for a 1959-1961 model 700 or 725,,, my 725s trans took a crap no more reverse and ive got a landlord thats pretty well parted out but trans is in it and is good so would work in my simplicity 725

[@slowride55]

THANKS a TON Sean!!!!! IT really helps. On the push button starter are the poles marked?

[@miltonpoole8612]

Zippo, thanks for the info...I have a 67 AC B-10 and when I bought it , the owner had installed a external coil and regulater...Could you show how the wiring would be for that, it ran when I got it but no fire to the plug now

[@ZippoVarga]

I've got videos already posted with external coil set up. Just search my videos and you should find them. If they don't answer your question, please let me know. Cheers!! Zip~

[@heliarche]

Ok, so as I understand it, you've just got a starter button that's heavy enough to handle the current to the starter so no need for a solenoid?Or is the regulator acting as a solenoid?Also, when I polarize the regulator, that wire I use to bridge the two connections, do I just arc the connections and remove the wire, or leave it on there permanently?

[@lynnish4295]

Thanks

[@1944johndeerel]

wish i had a wiring made simple video to watch when i redid the wiring on my john deere l. its got about the most simple electric system going. 6v positive ground with a manual charging system. but someone had attempted to wire in a regulator to make the charging system automatic. i had to heavily reasearch how the original set up worked and how to convert a similar setup to charge with a cutout regulator. it took awhile but i got it working properly. now i dont have to switch the charging rate

[@RileyHoban]

I have a 725 I'm wiring, with the one wire key switch, does it connect to the chassis or the points, if so, would it connect to the condensor or the points? Thanks.

[@ZippoVarga]

The condenser and points are both connected to the same terminal on the points, so it connects to both. Zip~

[@RileyHoban]

thanks!@@ZippoVarga

[@ZippoVarga]

Hi Jerry, My apologies for not getting back to you sooner. Check your in box!

[@ptshyu2]

I recently bought a 1961 allis chalmers b1 and It needs a new ring and its missing the generator and regulator any ideas on where I can get these parts from. Thank you and keep up the videos

[@ZippoVarga]

Those two and you will also need the schematic for the relay to correctly wire that to work with the regulator and key switch. Then, the two light connection wires will be wired to the relay according to the relay. Sounds complicated, but it's like a crossword puzzle. Once you get the idea, they're easy to wire up. The need for the relay is because it is equipped with the diodes needed to direct the current in only one direction. This is the best way I can explain the process. Maybe search YT??

[@toddgertler1323]

Zippo, I'm am having a hard time getting spark. I have a 717 with an on/off switch. The push button starter works fine but I am at a lost as to how to hook up the 2 wire on of switch. I keep blowing the fuse. Am I correct to say that the wire going to the condenser needs to be 12v positive? At one point I thought I had it wired up correctly without the fuse blowing but I had no spark. The magneto was recently replaced. Really any help would be greatly appreciated.

[@ZippoVarga]

I'm a bit confused. Does the engine have the correct magneto under the flywheel and I assume you're still running points? If so, No....no wires go to the condenser/points except the wire from the magneto and your kill wire. No + battery power should be connected at all anywhere on the ignition system. Only engines that use an automotive type canister coil will use battery power. Zip~

[@arturochavez3134]

what ignition switch can i use? THE switch i have has g/b/m/s/L terminal. would i be able to use this switch if so how? or should i get another switch? IF SO What switch? thanks trying to wire up my bolens 1050.

[@HoneyBeagle]

I guess I'm kinda confused on the regulator wiring and polarizing the regulator. You said a wire from the battery or start switch should go to the battery terminal of the regulator but the tractor in the video doesn't have a wire to the battery terminal and the tractor I just bought doesn't either. Also do I need to polarise the regulator when I replace the battery? Thanks

[@ZippoVarga]

When you flash the regulator, it's a one time and done. Just use the BAT terminal on the regulator and touch it to the GEN terminal for a second. This will pair the Starter Generator and Regulator. The battery + wire from the battery connects to the GEN post of the Starter it self, then the BAT wire from the Regulator goes through the Ammeter to the battery. (If so equipped). Once you pair the regulator to the Starter Generator, test the voltage at the battery with the engine off, then when running. There should be a notable increase but the voltage should not exceed 14.4 Volts. I hope this helps. Zip~

[@bennieshelter4366]

I have a cub 129 thats not charging .. I rebuilt the generator , it works great to start and it will charge till I get off the start position then it won't charge anymore.. another words its not getting 12 volts to the Armature pole on the generator as soon as I let it go back from start to run position there is no longer 12 volts on that pole and immediately it quits putting out 25 volts ac on the field side ... I got continuity from the GEN pole on regulator to the armature pole and field pole, and continuity from field pole on regulator to field pole on generator.... and battery plus ➕ to regulator BAT. pole .... what am I missing? Is the regulator bad ? Why am I not getting 12 volts to my armature side when in run position

[@slowride55]

The wire that goes from the bottom pole of the starter button that goes to the regulator, how big should it be?

[@kennylewis1050]

Hey zippo I have a gas golf cart when I got it some body took the voltage regulator off so I bought an aftermarket one the wires on it has a , IG, F, and an E I'm not sure how to wire it through my starter, generator if u could plz HELP that would be awesome!!..

[@ZippoVarga]

Contact the manufacturer. The letters you state are on the tabs doesn't make sense to me either. Sorry I can't be of more assistance. Zip~

[@ericclark8258]

Are all symplicity models wired the same way ?

[@ZippoVarga]

From 1958-1970 with the exception of the addition of a key start and solenoid on the 1970 all the wiring is basically the same, yes. Cheers! And the carb looks great!

[@miltonpoole8612]

Hey Zip, still working on my B-10...Cleaning it up after using I noticed the wiring on my regulator..The center and outer terminal wires go to one of the terminals on the Starter/generator...not sure what to make of this...if needed I could show picture,,,help Thanks Tony

[@ZippoVarga]

Hi Tony. Take the screws off the terminals and there should be letters on them. Follow this video once you know which terminal has what marking on it. Should be an F, G or Gen and either an A or L and if there are only three terminals on the side of the regulator, then there is a fourth on the bottom that will read BAT. F is field which goes to the terminal on the S/G with an "F" stamped near it, the BAT terminal goes to the positive battery terminal, the G or Gen goes to the other S/G terminal along with a battery cable from the positive side of the battery. The "A or L" terminal is used for Accessories or additional Load, like lights or electric PTO and the like. Pretty strait forward. Once you get things wired up correctly, follow this video to Polarize the Regulator and S/G, and you should be in business. Cheers! Zip~

[@miltonpoole8612]

ZippoVarga Thanks Zip...Love the vids....I love watching them....T-man

[@ZippoVarga]

I hope you get her up and charging!

[@danhar2823]

Hey zippo I kinda inherited 2 alis-chalmers ,,I think B-1 1961 your wiring video is priceless. I am in quebec Canada and I will have questions

[@ZippoVarga]

I have a lot of videos covering these tractors Daniel. Congratulations on your inheritance! Cheers! Zip~

[@CoryMasoniam]

The wire going to condense r/point is ground?

[@stephenspink7766]

Question , the wire that comes out of the points box should be connected to my coil . Correct?

[@falgianibrandon]

My one tab on my voltage regulator doesn’t say gen it has an L is that the same thing

[@lwoodt1]

Hi Zippo. Love your videos. Would this video info apply also to a 1965 sim landlord 101 with a 10hp briggs with magnetron ing.(no points or cond.)Thanks for the help

[@ZippoVarga]

Yep...same wiring up to the 1969 models. Zip~

[@johnb5837]

Thanks again

[@ZippoVarga]

Always welcome

[@vintagesimplicitytractors9464]

in 1:39 what is that wire going to

[@ZippoVarga]

As said in the video, it goes to the Voltage Regulator's Battery terminal. Zip~

[@vega196423]

Where can you get a voltage regulator, is there an aftermarket that crosses over. like Az or Napa? Do you have any part #'s i could use.

[@dougkoho]

Zippo, for some reason I keep burning up my coil and it's getting expensive. I was reading through the comments. I have the voltage reg and solenoid w/ starter generator. My question is why do I keep smoking my coil. Is it because i'm using the solenoid?

[@johnshippen]

Fantastic

[@ZippoVarga]

Ahhhhhhhhh!!! I see said the blind man! lol You will need a 7 pin ignition switch to replace the existing 3 or 5 pin. Then, a relay needs to be wired into the harness and connected to the appropriate lead on the ignition switch. To determine which will give you an open circuit when charging, you will have to get the schematic for the 7 pin ignition switch which will explain each connections purpose. One will be the supply from the regulator and another the output. The relay goes between.

[@raymondgarafano8604]

Hello Zippo, Ray here, I have a delco remy Gen/starter 12 volt 110-1689 would you happen to know what Voltage regulator I need for it and what is the approximate current output? Thank you!

[@ZippoVarga]

These were between 24 amps and 40 amps depending. Just search for Delco Starter Generator Regulator and you'll get dozens of results. The actual part number for the regulator is Delco-Remy 1118988. Zip~

[@ZippoVarga]

@wckdkl0wn Hmm.......nope!! I'll have to pull up a video of him and listen to him talk. One never sounds like they think they do when hearing their recorded voice...lol. I hope all is well with you my Friend. Cheers!!

[@simplicity7006]

I got a simplicity 700 with a model 19 engine and now I can get the charging system working. thanks. you wouldn't happen to know the head gasket number would you

[@ZippoVarga]

27752 is your part number Jake. Zip~

[@marksanna3856]

HI Zippo, Is there a source for wiring diagrams for these older simplicity and allis tractors? I have an old 3415s with a key start which wont shut off even though I just bought a new key switch for it?

[@ZippoVarga]

Find me on Facebook and I'll send you the manual for your tractor which includes all the wiring. Cheers! Zip~