Simplifying Assisted One Armer Finger Strength Training

Minimal efforts in terms of gear and time are needed to perform this super simple assisted one armer finger strength routine.
Simplifying Assisted One Armer Finger Strength Training by Mani the Monkey
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[@heraclitus4884]

I have done something very similair to this recently as I only have a small portable edge that can only fit one hand and it's already had great results. I hang for 7 seconds, pulling close to but not quite max on the 20mm edge, for three sets, transferring as much of my weight from the hand holding the pull up bar to the edge. One benefit of this is that if you have an imbalance in your arms it's easy to isolate and work on the weaker arm compared to if you were doing two arm hangs, where the dominant arm might just do most of the work. It's super quick, simply, keeps my fingers feeling good, and has a very clear progression.

[@ManitheMonkey]

Thanks for your input!

[@MajinguUganija]

I like the approach. It is enlightening and timely reasonable.

[@ManitheMonkey]

As always thanks for the feedback king.

[@Ptitviaud1337]

Hey Mani. Glad to see you from time to time. We're going on a undefined long trip (1 year at minimum), and i'm actually looking for board sessions when i wont be able to climb (do you remember me ? Guy on corsica, commenting loads of videos before your long break, somehow oftenly following the same life path as you, or the other way around...anyway!). i think it's a pretty clever idea to use the unbalancing effet of the portable hangboard. I do find that 30min is a bit short. However, you have some pretty short rest times. I would consider keeping between 8to10 reps, but with 3-4 minutes rests in between. Also, i do find that one rep is "risky", in the sense that if you cant manage doing one at the end of the sesh, you might be losing some time. Wouldn't you agree that aiming for a 2reps dimensioning would ensure better results ? Take care and keep having fun !

[@tommy5329]

Love these videos

[@ManitheMonkey]

Thanks for the feedback Tommy!

[@pdude1911]

Great video, thanks! Technical question: would you recommend one arm three finger hangs on a pull up bar, instead of a 36 mm Metolius edge, to train one arm three finger strength for beginners? I can hang the jug one arm easily, but three fingers on a 36 mm edge seems impossible! Salute from Holland 😊

[@ManitheMonkey]

Thanks, I think one armers or any pullups on bars do not carry over to climbing performance well. Try hanging 3 fingers open on a big edge with assistance, if that's impossible too it's simply too early for your fingers for that kind of training.

[@pdude1911]

Thanks for the reply, I'll stick to four finger one arm hangs on the large edge for longer times then, before even considering reducing fingers or edge size. One arm hangs got so much easier when I learned to engage the entire core. Can not wait to get strong enough to even one arm dead hang the 19 mm campus rungs. Salute!​@@ManitheMonkey

[@casperlans7131]

I like the minimal setup. I have never done any hangboarding, but would like to get started. I don't have the space for a BM2000. Would you recommend the portable hangboard you are using to get started or is there another minimal one which is more suited for two handed hangs? When the hangboard is hanging free and not mounted on the wall, does that make it harder (for a beginner like me)?

[@Ptitviaud1337]

Coming here late but always glad to help ; Choosing a hangboard : prefer wood over resin for skin management. Anything with edges going from "super good" to "hard to hold" will do. With very little skills you can even build it yourself. A free hanging hangboard is harder to work with than a fixed one, because you will need to stabilize yourself more. However, it's not that bad and you can carry it around.

[@casperlans7131]

@@Ptitviaud1337 thanks for the info!

[@chenxin2905]

Your body fat seems to have risen😁.

[@ManitheMonkey]

As I depicted in one thumbnail, roughly 39%