SINGER MODEL 404 MINI SERIES-ALL ABOUT TENSION PART 14e INSTALL TENSION ASSEMBLY AND "ZERO" IT OUT

[@meganmills6545]

Hi Andy - I'm trying to use this to "zero out" the tension on a 1917 Singer 128K after I've cleaned and am reassembling it. It doesn't have a numbered dial so I'm wondering if you (or anyone else - Hi there Anyone Else!) has any tips on what the tension meter should read on a Singer 128K bobbin. I have the Adjuster's and User's manuals but neither says a lot about what the bobbin tension should be. I'm guessing if I can find out something numerical that is known to work well and set it to that then I should be able to follow the tips in this video to get a really well set-up "tension system" even if the 128K doesn't have a numbered dial. Any advice or tips would be much appreciated. :-D

[@andytubesewing1953]

I've never worked on this model, or similar. I was told the bobbin tension is usually about 1 ounce, but have no hands-on experience with it, or the type of needle thread tension assembly. I'll pin your comment to the top in case someone can answer your question. Good Luck.

[@meganmills6545]

@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you Andy - and if I discover the answer anywhere I'll put it here too for anyone else who might want it. :-D Out of interest - for the machines you've had a lot of experience with, if you use the tension meter on the upper tension when it is set at "3" is that the same number of grams or ounces as what is recommended for the bobbin tension "factory setting"?

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@meganmills6545 No. I hesitated to tell you b/c I don't want to put you on the wrong track and have never worked on that model, but many of the bobbin tensions I worked on were set at about 1 ounce to 1.5 ounces (30 to 40 grams) when I got the machine. The lowest I remember was 25 grams and the highest 40.

[@meganmills6545]

@@andytubesewing1953 Sorry Andy - I think I'm phrasing my question badly. When the tension is "good" for sewing with standard thread on average fabric on a normal setting of "3" (on the machines that have a numbered dial), do the top and bobbin tensions read the same on a tension meter? So if, say, the bobbin tension in a particular machine is 30 grams, does the upper tension when the dial is set to 3 also read 30 grams? It's more the principle I'm after if I can't get a recommended factory setting tension for the bobbin.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@meganmills6545 No, I do not think the upper and lower read the same when the dial is at 3 unless you set it that way. If the lower tension was 30 grams then the upper tension was about 30 when zeroed out, so set to 1 or zero. The bobbin tension is always the same while the upper tension is made to be variable according to how you set it while sewing depending on what fabric/thread/needle you use at the time. The tension you are measuring is right at the tension springs and the tension is different when you are sewing through the fabric and the thread is coming off a spool and can depend on the fabric/needle/thread you are sewing, the stitch length and whether it is a straight stitch or ZZ stitch. You are looking for an absolute and I get that, but the tension is variable. If my tension setting was way off maybe I could get a beautiful stitch at 8 instead of 3, but I had still adjusted it according to the situation. With a bobbin tension at around 15 on a ZZ machine, the upper tension would be zeroed out to around 15 AT ZERO. So when you sewed wide ZZ or satin stitch you would be using a 1 or 2 setting and have enough tension for the thread to lay flat. On a straight stitch only machine I tend to set the ZERO OUT at about 30 because the machine will not be sewing ZZ then I can sew with tension set between about 2 thru 8 depending on what and how I am sewing. I'm sorry, but I can not say set the bobbin at 30 and the top setting is at 30 when set to number 3 and say that that is the "Correct" or "Best" way to set the tension assembly. Again, I've never set or worked on that type of tension unit, but they all put more tension on the needle thread when turned to the right and less tension on the thread when turned to the left. All of them. Myself, I think I would set the bobbin between 15 and 30 and then set the upper at 15 to 30 at ZERO and try sewing. If I got good tension between the numbers 3 and 5 I'd be happy. If the tension was crap then I'd adjust accordingly, more or less, until sewing a light-medium fabric at a setting of 3 to 5 resulted in a balanced locked stitch. It would not matter to me if the bobbin was set to 50 and the top zeroed out at 20, as long as it produced the type of stitch I wanted.

[@stephaniedobbs2938]

I have a Singer 404 that my grandmother purchased for me at an auction when I was just starting out on my own. Recently the tension went haywire and my threads were constantly breaking. I definitely thought I would be incapable of fixing my sewing machine myself (even with instruction), but your videos were so incredibly thorough, and after watching parts 14a - 14e in their entirety (and with purchasing a new thread take up spring), it seems back in working order! Thanks for your amazing videos!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks for your support.🙏 A fabulous gift from your grandmother. So glad you were able to follow along and get your machine back in service. Thank you for saving it.

[@happycamper2257]

Thank you so much for the video. I am a beginner who just picked up a 404 and had tension assembly that was incorrectly assembled and this video was a lifesaver. The Singer website video says their expert techs have problems rebuilding these very complicated tensioners and are better off buying a new one. I used a 15 gram lead sinker hung from a desk lamp to set the tension instead of a scale, just when the weight pulls the thread thats the set point. You made this very simple and look forward to the rest of the series and will use it as a video repair manual. Thank you Andy

[@andytubesewing1953]

Congrats on your "new" model 404! I'm glad you found my channel. Sounds like you're a natural repair person with the clever fishing weight trick to set the zero point for the tension. I think you'll enjoy working on and using the machine. If I may, I'd like to recommend an additional video to you. It's a newer, better way to clean the commutator on the motor. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pqvUZaesbdahb5Y Thanks for taking the time to comment and take care.

[@jennifercollins6809]

I only managed a partial clean up of Mom's machine this time, but someday soon I hope to follow each of your videos in this series from start to finish. Your guidance is extremely clear and easy to follow. I'm so grateful for the work you did to post all of these!! Thank you so much.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks for the recognition, Jennifer, but even more so thank you for working to keep the machine in service. Take care.

[@amyreich2524]

I just finished repairing & putting my 301 tension assembly together & finished watching this before I tear into the tension assemblies of my 403 & 404. I so appreciation your easy to follow videos! God bless you.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Nicely done, Amy. Thank you for the appreciation of my work, and for the blessing.

[@athertonca]

Watching this video and the one pertaining to 500/503 upper tension, I was able to disassemble, clean, reassemble and re-set the tension on my 500. I ordered a tenso-meter from the Featherweight Shop, along with two LED lightbulbs that fit many vintage sewing machines, including my 403 and 500. All reasonably priced and free shipping. Thanks so much, Andy.

[@andytubesewing1953]

You've been busy, and nicely done. My wife loves the LED light and hope you do also. Thank you for the nice comment. Take Care.

[@joycema1014]

Another great video. Love how detailed you are with showing how to assemble and why. Great Job!! I just took my Singer 338 in for a tune up.. So surprised when I brought it home and it was still dirty. Cost me $50 and now I have to clean it.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Your experience with your "tune-up" is very common. That's why I started making videos about DIY repairs and maintainance. You can spot clean areas if you like either using Krud Kutter or even alcohol. You knpw about that. Thanks for taking the time to comment Joyce and for watching my channel.

[@colleensims2531]

Thank you Andy. I have watched a number of your videos and they are well paced (for me) and I appreciate the level of detail. I always improve my machine with your help. So far 221, 222, 301a, 401a and now my next project 500a. I know I'll be watching your instructions. Thank you

[@andytubesewing1953]

Welcome, Colleen. You have been busy! Thanks for letting me know my videos helped you, and even more thanks for keeping those great models in service! You own some of the very best.

[@sharonthompson5162]

This is absolutely the best how to video I have ever watched. I have set the tension on a 404 and a 500a using this video and my machines now work perfectly. Thank you so much!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks very much for your comment, Sharon. I've learned over the years how important tension is and how often it is "off". I'm glad the video helped you keep your vintage machines working well. The 404 & 500A are great machines! Take care.

[@sandramillion1293]

Hello Andy! Thank you so much for the great video. I have always been skeptical of taking the tension apart. Thank you

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thank you for commenting, Sandra. Tension is the #1 thing I get emails about. I pulled the tension videos into a separate playlist here: kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U I appreciate your watching my channel. Take care.

[@annabelcowey293]

Andy......Thank you so much for this video! I have just got a 416 and the tension assembly is different to any I've had before. You made everything clear. Thanks again🙂

[@andytubesewing1953]

Nice of you taking time to comment. I'm glad you found my video. Happy sewing and take care.

[@stuartb3502]

Thanks for this tension series and all your other videos. Long comment but just to give you a sense of what you've helped others to do. I have used these and other videos to replace the hook and dog timing gears on a Singer 498 my wife was given and which was playing up. Also cleaned the accessible parts and lubed. The problem she was having was the needle thread breaking frequently. I cleaned and reset the tensioner which didn't help that problem, but eventually found that the bobbin tension had gone slack for some reason. Adjusted that (just by hand at the moment so need to get a tension gauge to check) and the machine is working again. Knew nothing about sewing machines at the start (although I work a lot on motorcycles and such). Interesting to learn some more although much more to know. I do want to change out the belts on this machine as the next step as that will mean all the key mechanicals should be sound for the longer term. Have found it very difficult to find any information on this model however. I'll have to remove the belts to measure after taking some brave pills. I also hope to mix up some enamel to retouch faded worn trim and lettering paint on the front and also plan to de-yellow the few yellowed plastic parts. Loathed to do that at the moment since she's enjoynig using it however so it will need to wait. Thanks again from the UK.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Greetings, Stuart, and welcome to Andy Tube. I'm glad you found my channel. As a motorcycle mechanic, you are the ideal candidate for learning to work on vintage machines. You are used to small, intricate parts and understand timing and using tools and gauges. Emails I get from other M. Mechanics show they are very successful in fixing the machines, including a couple who have started part-time repair businesses. I agree about the difficulty of finding documents for model 498. I sure can't find any for that exact model, and a couple of sources I used did not have anything either. There is some confusion that the 498 is the tubular, or free-arm version, of the model 478 that has a motor belt and a timing belt on the bottom between pulleys. If that is the case I can help you find info. Other info points to it being a gear-driven feed and hook model, with 4 plastic gears on the bottom, which is a different ball game. If you'd care to put some pics or a video on your channel showing the mechanical aspects and layout and overall features of the model I can help you decide a path for repair info, documents, and parts if they are available. You can also email me at my channel here in the US at [e-mail]. I'm glad you got the machine working and my videos were of help. Take Care.

[@stuartb3502]

@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy - thanks so much for your reply. I'll add a shared Google Photos album here photos.app.goo.gl/2PQkL6ux5jBzsrfg8 in case it's of use to others needing to identify their machine. It does appear to be a free arm version of the 478, but not sure if the internals are the same. Ours has a detachable bed also which stows inside the case. It does not have a horizontal timing belt, but has a toothed drive belt which connects the upper drive shaft to the bobbin drive shaft and feed dog drive shaft (via the gearset). Then it has a belt which I guess connects handwheel to the motor. Pictures are from before I started work apart from the last three of the top of the machine. The toothed belt shows some signs of cracking of the outer rubber. Sure it as some life yet, but I'm it would be good to at least source a spare for when it's needed. Not sure about the belt on the handwheel as it's not very visible. It had thrown a lot of black on to the handwheel whcih I've cleaned.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Perfect pictures, thank you. This machine is the different ball game I mentioned, with drive shaft timing belt. I've been asking around today and not much info is available as we know. No service manual can be found by those I asked and sources I usually buy from, but it is not something they would normally source. Most of them wondered what country your in as I guess the model was not sold in the US. I have a little bit of info though and it may be more than you have. If you'd care to email my channel at [e-mail] I'll give you what I have.

[@icandothis1238]

Hi Andy, We have a pretty stitch! I followed your instructions here and my tension is adjusted. And I discovered another thing I had done wrong, which might have been majority of my problem. Since I've always sewn with a machine with a "pull out" bobbin case, and this is my first machine with a drop in bobbin, I didn't remember to wrap the thread around the little hook of the 404's bobbin holder. It was such a "duh" moment!!!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Congratulations! Nice job. I have "fixed" quite a few friends & neighbor's drop in bobbin machines by explaining how to "tread" the rotary hook bobbin case, so don't feel bad at all. I'm glad the video helped you. Please come back to Andy Tube in the future.

[@edgarmartinez7148]

ICanDoThis 123 ii

[@amyreich2524]

Gotta tell you again how glad I am for this series. I did my 404 yesterday & completed the 403 tension assembly today. So glad! I feel like I accomplished something. & discovered someone had put on a tension assembly from a totally different "brand" (looked like a Kenmore?) No wonder it didn't work! If I wasn't married, I'd ask if you'd take me on as an unpaid apprentice. HA!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks for fixing up your machines. I'm glad my videos were helpful. If I wasn't married you'd be my new apprentice. There's no pay, but you get to keep the machines you fix. Take care, Amy.

[@paulerickson1906]

Thank you very much Andy. Excellent video.

[@andytubesewing1953]

You are welcome and thanks for the comment, Paul.

[@905Speed]

Dude, youre awesome. Helped me rebuild my handed down 404! :) Thanks!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Glad I could help! Getting a 404 is more like a "handed up"; it's such a great machine. I appreciate your copmment, Thank you.

[@icandothis1238]

Fascinating! I did not know how to adjust tension except to turn the wheel. So, I am specifically interested because turning my numbered wheel does barely anything except the bobbin starts making a clacking noise on the higher numbers. I just checked and in pulling the thread like you show, I can't even pull it at a 8-9, and at zero, the wire still goes straight up. NO WONDER I COULDN'T SEW A PRETTY STITCH. I'm gonna go play for a day, clean the parts, rewatch this, and I'll report back when I can.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Yes, no wonder! A clacking bobbin is the sign of too much tension for sure. The needle thread is slamming around the bobbin thread very hard. A good clean & adjust should really help with that. You have already learned a lot about tension, with more to come. Hope to hear about your results when you have time. Good Luck :)

[@jorgemoyet7962]

Awesome finally got my tension eight. I even took it to a repair place and they did everything else great and got the plate unstuck but they got the tension all wrong.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Over the years I've received so many comments and emails about the tension that I finally made some tension videos. It's the most confusing thing to most people but now you know it's very fixable. Congrats on your success, and thanks for watching my channel and saving a machine.

[@jorgemoyet7962]

@@andytubesewing1953 I actually got my 1959 Singer 404 for free from an old guy that was clearing his basement. It wouldn't spin at first so I soaked the parts in wd40 to finally get it free then wiped it all down and used proper singer oil. But I could not get one of the plate cylinders to break free, only one side would move up and down. That's when I took it to the repair place. Since then I've been fine tuning all the fiddly stuff they got wrong.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@jorgemoyet7962 The price was right! It's well worth the effort to tune up that 404. Very strong & dependable. Thanks for getting it back in service. You'll know more than the repair shop guys when you're finished!

[@ninagilliam9568]

Sir, I am so impressed! Thank you! This is the machine I learned on as a preteen, and mine is still going strong some 40+ years later! Two comments: 1. When you re-assembled the tension mechanism and the coil surrounding the three discs, I think you meant to say that the outer spring should be perpendicular, not horizontal, to the ground. 2. I am missing the final piece of the assembly -- the cap with the teeny tiny screw, and the teeny tiny screw too! Can you recommend where I can get a replacement part? I ordered a replacement part from one supplier, but the part they sent does not to the job. Any help you can give would be much appreciated!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Hey, thank you! 1. Yes, you are correct... perpendicular to the ground, sorry for the confusion. 2. I've never been able to find that part made new, but only as used vintage on eBay or similar. It's a unique cap and the thread size of the screw is Singer not standard. I've had to buy a complete used assembly just to get that cap/screw. Very rarely someone sells just the parts of the assembly but I've only seen that a couple of times over the years. One thing to know is the assembly is the same on all the Class 401 machines, so the models 401A, 403A, and 404 can be used with success. Thanks for watching my channel. Good luck.

[@ninagilliam9568]

Hello again! On eBay I was able to find a part that looks very similar to the final piece on the tension control mechanism, but the listing says it's from a Singer 201 machine. Do you think it would work on my 404 machine?

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@ninagilliam9568 NO. NOPE. NADA. You want part no. 172217 "Tension Indicator Flange Adaptor Thumb Nut Cap" and the screw is part no. 906 "Tension Indicator Flange Thumb Nut Cap Set Screw". Extremely rare to find alone. I've always had to buy the entire tension assembly. You can go here and download a free copy of the 45-page parts manual for model 404 with pictures, part numbers, and names of every part on the machine www.universalsewing.com/images2/parts_lists/all/nijears4.pdf Good Luck.

[@ninagilliam9568]

@@andytubesewing1953 Drat! I was so hoping the part on the other model might fit my 404. I'll keep looking.

[@ninagilliam9568]

Sir, I found a 401A tension assembly. It looks very similar. Will that work on my 404?

[@gailjankowski638]

Andy, on my Singer 503A Special Slant-O-Matic, the tension indicator flange stop washer has the little hook as you described it on your other video, but mine has that hook in line with the cross piece of the washer, not at a 90 degree angle to the cross piece. Also, when we took the thread tension assembly apart, the stud of this assembly was positioned so that the slot was vertical, not horizontal and the little hook on the tension indicator flange stop washer was positioned down, not up!! How should I re-assemble these 2 pieces so that my machine will work again. (Thread tension was way off, the thread was looping on the bottom of fabrics and the bobbin thread was straight--adjustments to thread tension and bobbin tension had zero effect)

[@andytubesewing1953]

Gail, I answered this comment on the first comment you asked about it on the 503A "tour" video. Thanks.

[@jayeasley3614]

OK, I finally got the screws out (the longest one & the shortest one). I took your advice about the penetrating oil and let it set a couple of days. I am not very patient, but I waited & waited. Finally got the screws going and got the tension stud moved so the split is horizontal and less vertical. I watched the video about 7 times putting it all back together, but I THINK I have it all back with my tension now set on #5. Before I was having to turn it to 7 or eight to get a good top and bottom stitch. Haven't plugged it in yet, but will do that tomorrow. You are the best..thank you for all your replies and suggestions. I saw one video showing to use an oil penetrating spray and just soak all the inside when you are ready to clean and oil a machine. Do you recommend this? Do you have a video # showing how to oil and clean the 503a?

[@andytubesewing1953]

Congratulations. When I'm expecting a certain machine to have difficult screws I will spay them all the night before. It does not use much oil and can save me time. If they would have come out easily then I did not use much oil anyway. If you ever break off a screw head in a vintage machine you will learn about being patient after that, trust me I know. Here is how to wash & dry a 503A: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYnRZmqOr7OciLM Here is how to apply grease and oil after washing it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sKCWlGx5icyJfck This is how I maintain a model 503A: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iZ-ViXdqeq5_fK8 Here are 17 more videos of model 503A: kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX Here is a link to my playlist page. The playlist covers about 30 singer models consisting of nearly 400 videos: kzbin.info/door/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=public

[@bonnieclarkson5674]

I love your video and learned a lot from it. But I am an absolute beginner trying to extrapolate to my Singer 600e since there are no videos. I am stuck at zeroing it out. I looked on Amazon, Ebay, Sewing Parts on Line, Singeronline, and Central Michigan Supply and could not find a tensiometer like yours. so I must do it manually. You have on the - and + cup. My service manual calls it a cup, without + or - on it. You also have on the spring and indicator stop; so do I. My service manual calls "adaptor" what you called "nut". My daughter, an auto mechanic, has been trying to help me. She says you were adjusting the stud and I say you were using the adaptor (what you called nut). The indicator stop points down according to my service manual. If I move the stud to adjust tension, the indicator stop may end up out of place. We can't feel any change in tension when we screw the adaptor. Any advice you could give me concerning zeroing out by hand would be greatly appreciated. I like sewing with it, but if I can't fix it, it may go on the neighbor's junk iron pile. I'm hoping you can help because you said you worked on a Singer 603. I am going for useability, not restoration.

[@andytubesewing1953]

The new and improved tensometer is available here for $6.95 singer-featherweight.com/products/bobbin-tension-meter If you are working on a 600 Singer and have the Service Manual you should follow the tension instructions on pages 20, 21, and 22 to work on your tension assembly. My video is for a model 404 and you can see there are slight differences in the parts and procedures. Cup, no cup, adaptor, or nut, it does not matter b/c different models and manuals have called the parts by different names over the decades. You never move the Stud to adjust the thread tension, The stud is held in place, stationary, by a set screw as shown in the picture on page 21. You can see what I mean about different models right there, while the 404 stud should be mounted with the open slot horizontally, the 604 stud should be mounted with the slot vertically. Be sure the Tension Indicator Stop is positioned at the bottom of the Thread Guard at 6 O'Clock. If you are not feeling any change in tension it is a fact that is it assembled incorrectly, not adjusted properly, OR... you have a Stud with a Plastic "gear" instead of metal, and the plastic gear has cracked. You really do not need a tensometer to adjust it if you follow the directions. A tensometer CAN make it a little more accurate and when I'm paid to adjust I use it. I do have a Guide written by a 30+ Year SInger Lead Technician and if you think it will help then email to [e-mail] and ask Alan for the 600 Tension Assembly Guide. He will reply with a PDF for free. He's pretty good about being timely. Good Luck.

[@daffycatbennett3555]

Wow, once you know what order all those parts go in and how to adjust it up or down, it's really simple. I got my 301's tension cleaned last night now I just need a clean machine to put it on! I think the vintage Singers have modern machines beat and nobody even knows it but we few. I paid $900 for my Juki and she is an outstanding machine. However, one day one of her computer boards will fail and she will be a very expensive paperweight when they stop making the board. Now, I know about vintage, and I will not pay good money for a temporary machine again. Oh, and I wasn't discombobulated at all...

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thank you. People are finding out that these vintage metal machines are a great value. Yes, they can be a little noisy in the bobbin area, and you have to oil and grease them, but they last forever almost. After trial & error over the years, we have come to like the 301, 403,404 & 503 the best. That better PA style internal motor, direct drive steel gears, no belts and very strong with good power. A nice balance. When you get up in price like your Juki you do get a great machine, but for how long? Even when Singer went electronic the circuit boards tended to fail, and new models can fail the same way. I'm so glad you are jumping right into working on your vintage machine. You already see it is not that hard to learn about it and maintain it. Great job!

[@craigferry1431]

Wow great job, but what about the foot control? No one ever wants to service the original foot controller. Thanks, Craig in Missouri

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thank you, Craig. I have not tested the foot controller on this 404 yet, but here are links to a two-part foot control rehab I did last year. Yep, I did not find much about it on KZbin, so I did my own. I wIsh I had done it at a closer view, but it is a decent video none the less. It is on a 337, but the same style controller. Let me know what you thnk. Thanks for watching. Links: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXesc2ygh5ZjnKM kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3zHmmV6jLmobMU

[@aprildholmes5722]

Hi Andy, Love your videos! I was wondering where to find the thread tensioner device you have. I did an internet search and don't find it anywhere. Also, when replacing the small pin inside the stud, does the flattened flange need to be horizontal? or vertical? Does it matter? Thanks. April

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thank you, April. Here is where I bought the tenso-meter: singer-featherweight.com/products/bobbin-tension-meter?variant=19186920963 It does not mater about the flanged end on the tension pin. Singer only started doing that to keep the pin from falling out the back of the stud when the unit is off the machine. In their earlier models the pins were rounded off on both ends. Hope to see you on Andy Tube again. Take Care.

[@aprildholmes5722]

Thanks so much!

[@icandothis1238]

"I can justify buying a tool" (ornery laugh). Many can relate to that thinking :)

[@andytubesewing1953]

HAHAHA! Have to have the right tools to get the work done, right? Thanks for watching.

[@icandothis1238]

Yes, and I'm keeping my eye out for 4 of those magnetised dishes for DH, sons and me.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Nice! You will love having them; so handy.

[@rgotrinity9054]

Hello Andy, The flange is not moving when turning the thumb nut. Am I doing something wrong? Also, the thumb nut wants to back off when the machine is running... I'm not sure what the issue is but I would greatly appreciate your input.

[@andytubesewing1953]

It's hard to diagnose over KZbin, but if the thumbnut moves independently of the flange a couple of things that come to mind. Is the thumbnut set screw is not completely tightened, or the flange is stuck on the tension stud post, like cross-threaded or miss-threaded? I would take the thumbnut off completely and try just turning the flange. If it won't turn normally you'll know that is what needs work, like remove and try to reinstall it. I have seen many bent sides to a stud and stripped threads. If the flange does move normally then that points to a problem with the thumbnut setscrew I think. Can you tighten it completely tight, or does it just keep turning due to stripped threads? It's a tiny screw and I've found a few damaged, or bad threads in the hole of the thumbnut. It should not move at all while sewing. Period. If you have a "creeping" thumbnut it sounds loose and I'd try to understand why.

[@elizabethhayes7157]

Can you please tell me how to fix the tension on my pfaff hobby 1022? Thread loops showing on the top and bottom of the fabric.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Sorry, can't help you with that 😞 I only so Singer and have never touched a Pfaff sewing machine.

[@marukthomasian6309]

Hi Andy, On a Zig-Zag machine the set screw for the stud is hidden under the zig-zag mechinisum, so do I have to take all the zig-zag nechinsum apart out off the way to get to the long set screw, my machine the slot in the stud is not parrallel to the base, this was never been taken apart sincr we bought it new. I son't know if I should correct it or leave along its about 10-15 degres off Maruk

[@andytubesewing1953]

could you please tell me the make and model number of the sewing machine you're talking about thank you very much

[@marukthomasian6309]

@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy, Sorry I did not give you the detail, and sorry for typing mistakes, my swing machine is a Singer Stylist 478. Thank you for the great video that helped me to get the mechine running again with few problem that I am sure It will work out with your help. thanks again.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@marukthomasian6309 OK my friend, now I can give you the correct answer. On your machine you access the tension stud set screw from the top of the arm by removing the top cover, turning the handwheel to make a clear path and using a long, thin screwdriver to go straight down to the top of the set screw (right above the stud). You can watch my video about this here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hoSmimpol69mrpo I start explaining how to remove the screw at about 10:45 in the video. Actually, you may enjoy the whole video as it shows removing and replacing all the parts of the tension unit. As far as adjusting the stud, you could just loosen the set screw and turn the stud so the slot is parallel to the base. The reason for that is so the symbols - | + are facing straight up and the numerated dial will show what number you have set the tension to by rotating that number to the top center. Personally, I would make the change b/c Singer designed it that way, but it will not affect the operation of the tension unit, but only how the calibrated tension will show what number of tension you have the unit set to. No need to apologize for typing mistakes. If I was charged by how many I make I would have no money in the bank, haha. Thank you for watching my channel and stop by any time you can.

[@jayeasley3614]

I have another question. The lever that moves the needle from center to left or right gets hung up when i move it to the left position. After oilding the machine it is better, but not perfect. Which video should I watch concerning that part of the 503A machine?

[@andytubesewing1953]

Well, it might need further cleaning or it may need adjusting to center the needle or on the driving arm. A few possibilities. You can go here and download a FREE copy of the original Singer Service Manual for the 500 & 503. It's what the SInger Repairmen used. It has 46 pages of directions with pictures of removing, replacing and adjusting the machines. Always clean the machine as best you can before making any adjustment. I also learned that the hard way, haha. Best of luck Jay, and thanks for saving a nice vintage Singer Sewing Machine.

[@jayeasley3614]

@@andytubesewing1953 where do I download the manual? thank you!

[@jayeasley3614]

@@andytubesewing1953 found the service manual...many thanks.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@jayeasley3614 Welcome, and I forgot the parts manual in case you need part numbers in the future: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/5_59999/503A.pdf

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@jayeasley3614 sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf

[@jayeasley3614]

I was trying to clean and adjust the tennion on my machine. The tension stud is turned almost vertical and I need to adjust it. I cannot get the set screw out of the first part and I cannot get the screw to turn on the inside to remove the tension stud. Can you tell me what to put onthe screw so I can remove them? I don't want to ruin the heads on the screws. Great videos. Finally got the rubber tire on my bobbin winder and it works great!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Hi, Jay. I'm going to assume you have a Singer MOdel 404 machine. I agree you don't want to ruin the screw heads, especially the set screw on the inside. That's why I use a hollow-ground screwdriver tip so it fits in the slot better. Even that type of screwdriver can break or strip off the head though. Here are some methods I use. Put on a penetrating oil or WD-40 and let it soak for some time, even overnight on a stubborn screw. I will also heat the screw with a hairdryer trying to get the metal to expand, then let it cool down and try again to remove it. Maybe have to do this several times. On the inside screw, because it is larger, I have also put the screwdriver on the screw and whacked the handle fairly hard to "break" it free so I can remove it. I use a 2 0z brass hammer or a small rubber mallet. The tiny screw in front may be too small to try that. If there is rust on the screws (hard to tell on the inside one) then using a rust remover like "The Must for Rust" or "Evapo-Rust" can help dissolve the rust enough o get the screw moving. The screw inside the machine is the longest set screw on the machine (of course) so I usually stand the machine up on the handwheel end and fill the hole with penetrating oil, liquid wrench or WD-40 and let it sit overnight. You can heat the screws before or after putting oil on, just be aware the oil gets runny and can blow around some. The hollow ground screwdriver makes a big difference over the normal tapered screwdriver to avoid damaging the screw head. On the little set screw on the front, I will cover it with a cotton ball soaked in the oil and let it sit overnight too. One of these methods will usually work. Be patient and do not risk damage. Good Luck.

[@jayeasley3614]

@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much for the reply. I will get started on your suggestions. Maybe go to hardware store and buy another screwdriver. Have been trying to use the screwdriver tham came with my machine. another question. I have a 503A. Does the cam in the top always turn, even on a straight stitch?

[@andytubesewing1953]

Yes, the cam turns when in straight stitch mode. The gear on the bottom of the camshaft meshes with the worm gear cut into the horizontal arm, so when the arm is turning, so is the camshaft. When you disengage the stop motion knob, like to wind the bobbin, then the arm does not turn and neither does the camshaft. You will like the hollow ground screw driver. It has straight, thick tip that fits the slot in the screw much better, unlike the regular tapered tip screw driver. It is what gunsmiths use too. Good Luck.

[@randyc8171]

Hi Andy, the 404 has three tension discs for two thread paths. But the 404 does not have a second spool pin and the 404 instruction manual has nothing about twin needle sewing. Why is that ?

[@andytubesewing1953]

I noticed that the first time I worked on a 404. I just assumed Singer used the same tension unit as Models 401A & 403A which do double needle sew. Maybe it was just easier than stocking and keeping inventory on a separate two- disk tension unit. Just guessing; no confirmation.

[@jayeasley3614]

I have two problems with my machine. #1. when I insert the needle, it is straight, but when I tighten the screw to keep the needle in, the needle moves slightly to the side. This make the needle almost touching the presser foot. how can I adjust? #2. When I back the hand wheel up to fill a bobbin, the needle still goes up and down. Is there a way to fix this? You have gotten me so excited..I bought another machine on Ebay to see if I could fix it!! Thank you.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Singer model 404 Service Manual: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf Singer model 404 Parts Diagram: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/4_4999/404.pdf Singer Model 404 Instruction Manual: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20404%20Slant%20Needle%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf There is no GIB in the 404 needle bar or needle clamp so it is not that. The correct needle for the 404 is 15 x 1 (Catalog 2020) sizes 9,11,14,16 & 18. Is needle installed properly (flat side to back)? The needle is bent? Needle bar installed incorrectly? kzbin.info/www/bejne/iWaVqYKPjr-Ja5o Presser bar bent or installed incorrectly? kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZLMd2RpmcmNm5o Damaged (bent) or incorrect presser foot? (Singer Part No. 170071) Is it aligned properly with the feed dog? The lower needle bar bushing could be misaligned (very rare). The set screw can be loosened and the bushing turned to center the needle. The bushing is eccentric and Singer said DO NOT ADJUST IT. I have never needed to. Take the foot off and see does the needle enter the hole in the needle plate cleanly near the center? Then recheck presser foot for damage. For the needle bar still "creeping" when the stop motion knob is backed off to wind a bobbin: If the stop motion clamp, inside of handwheel and/or the end of the horizontal arm shaft is dirty then the handwheel cannot spin freely on the arm shaft but has some friction and makes the needle bar/feed dog still move. Dismantle and clean handwheel parts: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m4vMfpSXoMZofqc Then reinstall the handwheel parts: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nnnPammNgZaesKM

[@jayeasley3614]

@@andytubesewing1953 thank you Andy..you are extremely helpful. sorry to keep bugging you. I have the second machine I just bought, and so far everything is going well with cleaning etc., except when I remove the set screw on the upper tension, I cannot get the part with the numbers to come off...any suggestions? On my own machine, it just slipped right off.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@jayeasley3614 Look close at the number dial/flange. Sometimes people put it on BEFORE the Flange Adaptor (the threaded tube) instead of after it, so even when you take off the thumb knob the numbered dial is being held on by the flange adaptor. Otherwise, someone just jammed all the parts on very hard and the parts may be bent. But check the flange adaptor.

[@jayeasley3614]

@@andytubesewing1953 iI have a 503a. The tensin indicator flange is smooth on the outside with threads on the inside .(at least that is the way it is on my other 503) I cannot get the tension indicator flange to come off the tension indicator flange. I have soaked iit in penetrating oil and it still won't move. My other 503, it just slipped apart. any suggestions?

[@andytubesewing1953]

A 503A? OK. You are commenting on a model 404 video so I thought that's what we were talking about. On the 503A once you remove the tiny set screw the dial should just pull off, you are correct. When it does not pull off then there is probably dried oil, dirt and/or crud inside. If the oiling did not loosen it, you can heat it with a hair dryer to soften the muck inside. I usually just turn it to the left until it, with the flange it is stuck to, comes off the stud. They should come off together. Then you can soak the whole thing, both stuck pieces, in warm water, heat it from the inside with a hair dryer, add more penetrating oil and so forth until the pieces come apart.

[@Rose-rq1fy]

Question about tension releasing pin. Is it supposed to slide when you change tension ?The pin is not in contact with lever after the initial assembly.I have memorized this video and get everything reassembled and the tension set . When the foot peddle lever is up the thread moves. When the foot peddle lever is down the thread will not move at any number setting. I have checked the tension releasing pin and it does not change .. It never moves . I have pulled out the pin to make sure it is facing the correct direction and moves. I stopped working on my 404 for A week hoping it would work when I returned to try again. Today three hours. I know it is me not you ! Help please.

[@andytubesewing1953]

How frustrating for you, Rose. No worries b/c you can fix this. So, you ask is the tension releasing pin (TRP) supposed to slide when you change tension? No, not really. When you change tension by turning the thumbscrew on the front of the tension unit (turning right) you are putting tension on the beehive spring inside the unit and that pushes the tension discs closer together or loosens the tension on the discs (turning left). The tension pin is just sitting inside the stud. The tension releasing pin (TRP) comes into play when you lift the Presser Bar Lifting Lever. Not only does the PBLL lift the presser foot, but it rocks the Tension Pin Releasing Lever (TPRL) and that lever pushes on the end of the TRP. That makes the TRP push the Indicator Dial (ID) back against the beehive spring which lessens/removes the tension on the Tension Discs (TD). The Tension Pin Releasing Lever ONLY TOUCHES the Tension Pin when the Presser Bar/Foot is lifted, and it only MOVES THE PIN A TINY AMOUNT, like 1 or 2/32". That is enough to release the tension on the discs so you can thread the needle (lets you slip the thread in between the discs) OR it lets the thread slide between the discs when you pull your fabric out from under the needle or rotate the fabric to change the direction of your seam. If there was still tension on the needle thread it would be very hard to pull your fabric from under the needle when you finish sewing a seam. VERY HARD. So, let's do this. Please watch part 14b of this tension series. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3K2aIlpo9Z7gLM It is less than 5 minutes and explains how the tension releasing lever moves and pushes on the tension pin. Then come back to this video you commented on. (part 14e) You see that at 9:00 to 9:50 in this video what is called the "pin pushing test", meaning does the pin move when you lift the presser bar lifting lever. Then watch starting at 23:45 where I show an "Increasing Tension Test" from barely any tension to heavy tension on the needle thread. If either of these tests fails on your tension unit then, yes, you have a problem. My crystal ball is in the shop getting a tune-up, but maybe your Tension Pin Releasing Lever is installed incorrectly or is damaged/bent and not pushing/releasing the pin properly. However, you said if you lift the lever the thread does move, and that is NORMAL operation. Maybe you did not "Zero Out" the unit and have way too much tension on the beehive spring so when the lever is down (lowered foot) the discs are pinched together so tight that the thread can't move between them. Maybe you threaded the tension unit incorrectly and the thread is wrapped around the stud. I can't see the machine so I can't really say, only some ideas. Personally, I think the pin is moving at least somewhat, or else why could the thread move with the lever up if the pin was not pushing on the indicator dial like at 9:40 in this video? When I start to get frustrated it's always a good idea if I walk away for a while, so you were smart to do that. Don't get overly frustrated, but remove the thread completely and test lifting the lever to see if the tension on the discs is released. (proves pin function). Take it apart until it is just the stud, pin, check spring, discs, and indicator and see if lifting the lever moves the indicator plate toward you. A step at a time until you isolate why the thread will not move at all with the foot down.

[@Rose-rq1fy]

Andy Tube I will try all you suggest. I took close up phots on the pin , the inside of machine view. One photo when pressure lever is up and one when it is down. There is a gap , the pun is never touched. I guess I will break it down again tomorrow. Thanks for your reply. I wish I could send you photos . Then you could wave your magic wand over the pictures and poof I will be up and running ❤️

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@Rose-rq1fy If the pin is never touched then either the lever has bent (rare) or the stud is not completely into the machine (very possible) or it is the wrong pin in the stud (rare). All three are possibilities to check for.

[@randyc8171]

I watched this video 10 times between 2 and 5 minutes from the beginning. Somehow a part appears on the tension stud that is not on it when you put it in the second time. What happened there ? That screws up people who actually follow your installation procedure. You are building the parts back on the tension stud and somehow another part magically appears to be on the tension stud when it is installed. Does that part just slip on or off the tension stud ?

[@andytubesewing1953]

Hi Randy. Since I am totally an amateur at filming and editing my videos I always appreciate constructive criticism about them. I am not following your meaning in this comment though. I watched the whole video (once) and I can't understand the part you are talking about. Could you please name the part? Help me understand where I screwd up please.

[@randyc8171]

Starting at 2:12 into the video the tension stud has no gear part on it clear up to 4:00. Then all of a sudden at 4:37 it has the gear part on it. Is it easy to remove that gear part ? Is there a certain way it goes on the tension stud ? Is it a tight press fit ?

[@andytubesewing1953]

KZbin held this comment for "bad words" but I don't know why. Anyway, I approved it and I understand your point now. The reason there is no gear at that time is that stud is not from a model 404. It is a broken stud from a different model that has a plastic gear and it had broken off. I made the little inserted video after I completed the reassemble and was editing it. I was not happy just mentioning that I had already inserted the pin and wanted to show the actual insertion. Since I filmed the insert video 2 days later I did not want to disassemble the whole unit on the 404 just to show how the pin goes inside the stud. That is why I used a different stud. Moving on, the stud on model 404 is all one moulded piece; the gear and stud being all one piece and can not be separated. In part 14C- the dismantle there are much better views of the stud starting at 25:13 and a still photo close-up at 26:53. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rXeli6prnbZgac0 Thank you.

[@jaquelinedeponce5251]

My issue is the tension knob moves too easily as your machine vibrated it shifts.

[@andytubesewing1953]

That means someth9ing is not installed correctly or is out of order or even compressed slot in the Tension Stud. Sometime I've had to rest the tension a few times to ge it working correctly.