Single Speed Conversion - Not As Simple As You'd Think

It's been a long time want of Reuben to build a hardtail single speed mountain bike and now he's finally managed that, he's been having some issues.
Ridden at both the Rapha Cross Prestige and Kinesis Badlands Gravelcross events, his single speed mountain come gravel bike is still a work in progress...but at least he's having fun?

[@UltimateRT]

Pro tip for getting perfect chain line: put on the rear sprocket without any spacers, remove tensioner, put the wheel on bike and spin the cranks in the direction of travel (if the bike is upside down just backpedal) and the chain will put the sprocket in the place it wants it to be.

[@jamesthomas119]

that's ingenious, thanks!

[@devinstone3748]

Reuben, I recently did a single speed conversion and had the exact same issues as you are experiencing. In my case, I rode through a sandy puddle and it never worked the same again. I chased it for months, replacing the cogs, tensioner, and chain multiple times. I started going down the chainline path as well but to no avail. For the record, a narrow-wide front and rear did not fix the issues either. In the end, the issue is really with the concept of any chain tensioner that uses a spring. The solution that I found worked was to switch to the DMR STS (simple tension seeker). It is a fixed position tensioner that allows you to fully mimic the setup process of true single speed. I have 1000 miles of Colorado front range trails since the swap and have not had a single jump. You may need a slightly different version as my rear hub is an older QR but the concept should still fix your issues. As an added bonus I discovered that if I use a quick release chain link I can swap gear ratios quickly by simply popping on a different size cog and throwing on the correct size chain. I am able to reliably run between 34-16 and 34-21 setups without having any setup issues. I hope that this helps you avoid the months of headaches and unnessarary purchases that I went through.

[@TijmenMoltmaker]

I've always used an old rear derailleur as a chain tensioner on my single speed cross bikes. Fixed it with a small piece of cable (directly put in the cable adjustment barrel), so you can finetune it even by turning the cable adjustment barrel. Has always worked smoothly.

[@ashokcaptain4088]

Absolutely agree

[@backwheelpete3210]

exactly, finally someone with sense :D why spend money? Take off the front derailleur, and the extra shit from the front and the cockpit, insert cable/ziptie(yepp, ziptie) and BOOM, single speed. Weird trend, but ok

[@ruralsalt]

I have been using the method for years. It works just fine.

[@andrewblakesley4202]

I've long been a fan of single speed MTB. In my experience chain tensioners are great but have a very narrow window of operation. Sprocket size, chain slack, chain width and chain line all need to be spot on. When you crack the magic formula nothing is quieter or more hassle free. I've built up a stock of different spacers, sprockets, chainrings, washers and bolts, so now any new single speed project is fairly easy. I also moved to articulated tensioners as they are worth the extra. I have many bikes but the bike most ridden (off-road) is always the single speed rigid. Keep at it and good luck.

[@BladeBarn]

APPENDIX OUT = LIGHTWEIGHT MOD

[@elPedro666]

When I first converted I had the same issue, but more frequently. Fixed it by switching to an up-tensioner (an STS in my case) which gives considerably greater chainwrap. Zero trouble since. A larger sprocket - and obviously a correspondingly larger ring - might help too, but with the extra chainwrap it's become a non-issue. Enjoy the simple life

[@briankleinman1111]

Your problem is with not enough chain wrap on the cog. If you put the other spring in the Singleator so that it is pushing up on the chain rather than pushing down your chain skipping issues with most likely go away. If you do this and the chain is hitting the chain stay your other option that will work is a 2 pulley tensioner. Paul makes a great one. Of course you have to make sure you chain line is pretty close. I’ve found when using a tensioner it really doesn’t have to be perfect like when using a true single speed. Good luck.

[@averypucelik9662]

I had the same problem when i was running the tensioner that way... I have the Surly singlulator and it comes with two springs, a pull up spring and a push down spring, when using a smaller gear in the back and the push down spring there are'nt enough teeth to grab the chain and keep it on the teeth when under heavy torque. By using the pull up spring (to pull the chain into the chainstay rather than away) it allows more teeth to be engaged and thus fixing the problem. I have 50:15 gearing on my single speed road bike and even at a full sprint or riding through cobbles I haven't had that issue again.

[@ipodtouch1992rfc]

Thank you so much for this video exactly the information I was searching for! Very clear and specific much appreciated 👍

[@MidlandflyerB90]

I had same issue after riding through mud. No issues on roads, will follow comments and suggestions. I love my single speed MTB

[@yorvo]

I converted my old 9speed alu road bike to a flatbar singlespeed. Removed the front deraileur, and kept the rear. I just used a long LOW bolt to follow the correct chailine. It works like a charm the last 6 years.

[@RobBastien]

This worked for me....I actually installed my Deore rear derailleur as my chain tensioner. Not pretty but it worked. You can set the alignment with the H-L screws.

[@maxsledge7564]

that’s different because you have 2 jockeys wheels.

[@teenoltae]

Trust a bike journo to need Calipers to figure out the chainline on a single speed . .

[@EccentricEllis]

Singlespeed is about basics, you don't need narrow wide you don't need posh. 7-8 speed chain standard 104 BCD old school cranks. Old cassette ring of choice. The more basic. The better it works. Also, join - One-Cog on Facebook. The community will help.

[@EccentricEllis]

And also make fun.

[@reubenbakker-dyos8561]

Interesting thoughts! I was limited with my crank options as we had the XT cranks lying around in the workshop spare so I nabbed those for the build.

[@dylanmarsh4192]

Yes agree too complicated. Ditch the narrow wide and try and match chain length to remove the tensioner - look at getting a half link chain to get the length right. I have had a couple of single speeds and they never had issues like this and were both made with old simple chainrings and had a fair bit of chain slack too

[@Metal-Possum]

Just a reminder, a single cassette sprocket on an aluminium freehub body is a bad idea. I learned the hard way, didn't even think twice about it until I tried getting the sprocket off just a few moments after I test rode it... A sprocket with tall teeth and a wide footprint is your friend on ANY cassette hub, they're not expensive either. Single speed chain, either 1/8" or 3/32" will have far less lateral flex, and a purpose built chainring up front will also help derailment. Remember a standard multispeed drive train is designed specifically to drop the chain from gear to gear as quickly as possible, not keep it on.

[@fastfish666]

dedicated SS rear cog is better than an old cassette one as the cassette ones are designed to drop the chain - but good for initial setup to find what gear you want. 32x18 for 29er and 32x16 for 26er is pretty standard. Also if you are getting serious :-) about SSing then in my view its worth building up a dedicated rear wheel with SS rear hub as way stronger than a normal rear - however finding a 142x12 SS rear hub is not a trivial exercise (if anyone know of one Id be interested!)

[@farkas480]

I built my SS in 2009 with an old Surly 1x1 frame from 1999 ish. It was designed to be a single speed, so it looks more like a BMX in the back. I had to use Redline BMX chain tensioners to keep the wheel from slipping forward. I found a white brothers freewheel cog with both 16 and 19 teeth. I can easily switch between them by loosening the wheel. The front sprocket is 32 teeth. I often keep it 32x19, but for town riding and bike paths, I do 2:1. 32x16. I live in Phoenix Arizona

[@frthdo]

Try the Brompton tensioner, or a even rear mech (use a cable end to keep alignment correct), the top jockey wheel keeps the chain closer to the rear cog and prevents the chain moving. The chain needs to be touching as a many teeth as possible!

[@davidrees4063]

A half link can help with that magic ratio that means no need for a tensioner but it does limit your gear choice and a worn chain becomes an issue so not really worth it unless you are meticulous on cleaning and checking of tension. Consider ditching the toothed jockey wheel and running a roller off an old chain device (think downhill) or look at the DMR simple tensioner, you are on the right lines with both chain alignment and flex in the chain tensioner though. The design of both those chain tensioners is rather ropey and as you've found out, a little hit and miss when it gets wet and muddy, the DMR is a fixed tensioner, no spring, no long shaft stuck half way across the rear end to add flex or lateral leverage that will push the chain offline and make it lift from the cog and a nice fat pulley made of rubber for the chain to relax over, set it, add a dot of locktight to the lock bolt and leave it be (about 3-5mm of chain slack is a good idea, if you've ever set a motorcycle chain you'll understand this bit). If you want to chuck another 5 pounds at it consider getting a shimano DX rear cog too, the machining on cheap cogs leaves much to be desired. The seedy world of single speed is a slippery slope, once you've gone SS you'll be thinking about steel frames, then wondering about fixed gears soon you'll find yourself stood in a bike shop chatting to people with beards about the merits gear ratios and slotted drop outs. Welcome, you are now "one of us, one of us". I'm sure you are aware of this, but please be prepared for derision and misunderstanding from the masses who have never tried, nor have the understanding of the way of the singlespeeder.

[@briankleinman1111]

david rees issue with a 1/2 link is he is running a narrow/wide chain ring.

[@kevinchills]

I switched from cog to roller and it was great. Quieter and less teeth for the chain to syncronize with.

[@joen3992]

Thank you for the informative video. Personally I'd love to figure away to take a 29er mountain bike and convert it to a 2x1. Meaning two chain rings. One 22t the other 32 with only one cog. Allowing me to go up hills and ride around town. I wish I could do 3 cogs. Say #3,4,5 on a 11 to 32 9 speed cassette HA HA

[@ZOB4]

A friend of mine has a single speed she inherited from a friend of her's who passed, and she absolutely loves it. Her first ever overall race win was on it, and she calls it "the bike with angel wings". She is strong as hell, and can handle a hefty gear. All of her rides on the single speed are absolutely fierce and the bike is simple, silent, and genuinely beautiful. She got it as a purpose-built singlespeed, not a weird conversion. I have to admit, I'm jealous and wish it were mine.

[@nastyham5302]

Was gonna comment on how simple my conversion was and them I remembered I went through 3 different sizes of rear sprockets and the dmr tensioner I bought made my chainline slightly off as the roller was narrow so i had an unused gusset ss tensioner and used the roller from that which was fatter allowing the chain to naturally slip into that perfect straight chainline it was simply magic. Rollers over jockey wheels everytime!

[@nefariousstylo9943]

2016 Marin Pine Mountain 1 single speed conversion here; I'm running a Surly 34t stainless steel chainring and 22t cog in the back. I had a very similar problem (the same to be exact) and the problem was the chain. I was running a 1/8th ss specific chain when the cog called for a 3/32nd chain for a 9, 10 or 11 speed cluster. The difference is the pin length, which is ever so slightly shorter on single speed specific chains. Get yourself a KMC 9 or 10 speed chain and I guarantee that skipping will stop.

[@PonderosaPounder]

I've had great success with half link chains. It took me a few tries to get the perfect ratio, but I've been running my single speed for years this way with no issues whatsoever.

[@bullwhipjohnson8247]

I think you're on the right track. Chain alignment, debri could be the culprits. I wonder if you could have a narrow-wide front and rear?

[@reubenbakker-dyos8561]

Yeah I have a narrow wide front and rear. Some great suggestions in the comments here so I'm still hopeful!

[@sureshchinnappa2290]

Good effort mate

[@bimmer3twenty5]

I'd ditch the narrow-wide in the rear and go with a standard cog. It's really overkill when you think about it, and if you're having issues with debris, a standard cog will give some room for the debris to "moosh" between the chain and the cog, rather than forcing the chain up off the cog.

[@bimmer3twenty5]

For reference, my SS setup doesn't use narrow-wide front or rear. Just pulled the big ring off my 2x cranks, and bought the cheapest "conversion kit" Amazon had, included an identical chain tensioner. No issues so far

[@Thedaubes]

If your narrow wide rear is off a half link, the narrow link can stick on the wide tooth of the cog

[@geepas4888]

Did mine with out a tensioner. Used a half link chain. Looks cleaner aswell... Still runs great after 6 months.

[@dunnockdan]

Cool! Doing this to my 2005 Specialized EPIC, its a 26er, so no one wants it anymore ha, so SS it is :) Perfect Winter trail hacker! Use to SS on the roads, so this should be fun. Keep my FS Merida nice and clean for summer, use this SS for winter grime

[@Duraltia]

You'd think with all the footage you had to cut this video you'd have been able to temporarily mount a camera facing the problem area to get a better grip of the situation =)

[@jeramiajohnson5944]

I had all the same issues when setting my bike up for the Breck 100. I experimented with different chains, tensioners, cogs, alignment and lube but the solution was trimming the height of the teeth on my cogs using a grinder. when using a tensioner the chain is pulled extremely tight on the top of the cog and left sprung tight by the tensioner on the bottom which leads to the chain catching on the tip of the tooth as it engages the cog and then snapping down as its pulled tight at the top. Trimming the cog teeth slightly fixed the issue. I also used a rear derailleur locked into the proper position which offers better chain wrap since I was on a full suspension bike. 100 miles and 4000 meters of climbing with zero issues related to drivetrain. Hopefully this helps!

[@threestarsandasling]

Use a bmx chain. Although heavy, they're bombproof and made for abuse.

[@mattgrady518]

Miner eccentric bottom bracket if you have a 24mm crank diameter. I would recommend wolftooth cogs as well, the teeth are a bit taller. Tensioners are great for casual riding but for you, you should do a more solid state setup that does not move. Love the single speed post! I would love to see more!

[@paddydavison6969]

Could you just use a clutch rear mech and wind the b-screw in all the way? (using the corresponding chain for the mech) They do that all the time on DH bikes, sometimes even going as far as modding the mech to fit the thick single speed chain

[@tomnewman6760]

I've had this problem, my thoughts are the chain doesn't wrap around the sprocket enough thus under heavy load it jumps. Radicle solution is to have horizontal rear facing drop outs (I've bought a new frame) like a true fixed wheel bike uses, thus dispensing with the tensioner. But a good alternative is the dmr sts tensioner (mentioned in the comments below) as the chain wraps around the sprocket a lot more.

[@thechaosengine3020]

Ruben. What chain wheel/sprocket ratio have you settled on please? I converted my 29er to single speed with 30/18 initially ... and then smashed my collar bone ... so I haven't had a chance to try it on hills and technical sections. Thought 30/20 to begin with but was spinning out on the road too. Would be riding the Strathpuffer course and similar all day overnighters in bothies or with a light tent around the highlands. I have sliding dropouts so don't need a tensioner.

[@jonathanharrison2941]

I have run the chain over the top of the jockey wheel and tensioned the chain by pushing upward effectively wrapping the chain around the rear cog, gaining more chain contact which eliminates chain slip.

[@nicksutton2964]

Just something from my own experiences that may help. I can see that you can't just set the chain to a certain length to obtain the correct tension because the chain stay length is fixed. So unless you get a frame such as the Jamis Dragon Pro for example, which has adjustable chain stay length, and thru axles too, then you could put a good old fashioned chain guard (? is that the right name?) on your chain ring, just like lots of cheap mtbs have, or use an old front mech locked in position. I agree that if your chain line isn't spot-on then that will definitely be a factor as well.

[@kaitheus6951]

Why single speed: personally I toasted three rear derailleurs in a week, so off came the gears. I used a gear combination that allowed a little more chain length than my chain stays. Took apart an old cassette (ones that were riveted together) and ground off the teeth of the largest two cogs and used those to sandwich my chosen rear cog. Use spacers to line up the chain line and on my 34:20 combination I don't even use a chain tensioner - the chain makes a slight rustling noise as it goes between the sandwiched cogs in the bag but it works well. Heads up though that the standing and torqueing on the cranks will put a lot more stress on your head tube/down tube junction - snapped that frame a few years ago and now have a dedicated Surly 1x1.

[@AlfScalise]

I had a very similar problem with a similar setup and using a wide chain fixed it. Wide chain still works on the big chainring as it has so many more teeth to engage with. Small sprocket and fewer teeth to engage with might cause problems. And it’s a cheap fix at just buying a chain.

[@singlespeedfiftyfive]

Try setting your tensioner on the push up position but you need to change the spring on your surly singleator to the push up type. This give you more chain wrap on the cog.

[@teocastelvecchi]

The chain slip is usually caused by the U shaped guard turning up and catching on the chain, Best ti get a tensioner that pushes the chain up rather than down, maximising chain wrap around the chainring.

[@jpnw3272]

I never had problems with a chain tensioner before on my bikes, but I was using a single speed rear hub. It’s not as good as a pure single-speed bike, but it did work. Could it be something with the frame? Frame alignment? Rear derailleur hanger alignment? Just trying to go through ones you haven’t discussed. Hope it all works out!

[@unitimmy]

Eccentric bottom bracket is the winning setup. But that involves dropping a bit of cash. Cheaper would be getting the singleator right - it should be used in push up config unless it absolutely cannot be. Straight chainline is a must no matter what solution you use, but I haven't had any trouble eyeballing it in the past. I think a narrow-wide rear cog may actually make things worse for you if you have issues with mud gumming up the engagement, as it fits tighter so it won't handle any debris. With an eccentric bottom bracket, you will no longer be relying on a spring to keep mud from throwing your chain. It'll just push the mud out as you ride along.

[@jonnythelegs2597]

Once you've got chain line issues sorted - go for an oval ring, the effect gets hidden by gears but on a single speed the difference is profound (in a good way that is). Those climbs where it feels like you knee caps are gonna fly off and start dancing around on your handlebars become manageable plus average speed and smoothness of cadence when spinning on the faster or tarmac sections is improved even if you're an old skool roadie that learnt to pedal in "circles" .

[@MaxStevenson-ih5ji]

ya ive gone from 3 x9 to 1x10 and am now gonna try ss, its simplicity is amazing and i'm tired of breaking chains. The oval ring is sweet btw.

[@emilegoguely4032]

Hey Jonny, recently converted my mtb to SS, running a oval ring but I'm getting chain drops (I have it so it's pretty tight when the "enlargement" of the ring are at 12&6 oclock) Narrow wide oval ring, cassette gear cog, used chain. Any idea?

[@fastfish666]

Singlespeeds are supposed to be bodges! Ive been riding them for over 15 years. Unless you have a bike with track-ends chain tension is always going to be an issue, because even if it fits perfectly with a brand new chain, after a few 100km in the mud, the chain will wear and require more tension. Its always better to have a chain tensioner that pulls the chain up (rather than down) so that you have more wrap on the cog. My current setup (on my singlespeed with vetical dropouts) is a small section of cable conduit pipe about 4cm long, zip-tied to the chainstay, the chain passes though that and works a treat!

[@gunarstreikals2099]

I my experience with MTB single speed conversion I had similar problem and it was the rear cog jumping under torque. Changed that by going to wider base single speed cog and it was fine for the time )

[@victorkhong7654]

Use the Surly tensioner in the "up" position and secure the tensioner arm to the chainstay with a zip tie. This provides a better chain wrap over the rear cog. With the zip tie in place, the chain will not bounce off the rear cog.

[@adamjohnson414]

I used a front chain guide when i went single speed for a while and worked well for me. Still adjustable but as its under the front ring so close chain line wasn't as important i felt.

[@Heathcliff_hensel]

I have two SS bikes and yes they can be a little fiddly to set-up but once you get it right they are great. I would suggest metal jockey wheel in the back I had plastic and there was a lot of flex and play in it.

[@regularguysgarage3276]

DMR Tensioner.Solid wheel no cog no problems

[@gfsdgfabfsdafjsavbdfs1253]

What chain do you use? Some SS sprockets are a slight bit wider than their shifty counterparts, and don't take 10/11-speed chains as well. That might be the cause of the chain 'climbing' on top of the teeth, especially when mud gets involved. I'd say try an 8-speed chain. It might also help to put the tensioner in an upward position, pushing the chain up, increasing chain wrap around the sprocket. Some tie-wrap between the tensioner and chainstay might help keep it tight. ;) Best advice (of course) would be to get a dedicated SS frame with track ends, sliding or swinging dropouts or EBB. Steel of course ;-)

[@NoBrakes23]

After doing a 26" singlespeed conversion in 2016, I never want to do that again, (But I might anyway.) Next time I do singlespeed, I want an eccentric BB or horizontal dropouts, and I want to do it with B+ or 29er wheels. Magic Gear works for some people on some frames, but I'm too big to have it last more than about half a ride, (Chain stretches right out,) and it took a lot of fiddling about before I found a combo that would work, (For me, a non-SS frame means a tensioner is required.) When you get a set-up and ratio that works, it is fun, though.

[@stijndeklerk]

sounds like debri getting caught on the rear sprocket in combinatio with the spring loaded chaintentioner. Bar getting a singlespeed specific frame, the Rohloff chaintentioner has two jocky wheels and wraps the chain around more. Never had a chain jump with one of those.

[@b.s.adventures9421]

It’s complicated because you have adapted a geared bike with a tensioner. They can work, but a frame set up for single speed with out a tensioner is ideal. Aka adjustable drop outs, or eccentric bb. If it’s not in the budget, I understand. Chain line is critical regardless. Make sure that’s spot on. Park tools used to make a chain line tool that sits in a cog at the rear and is straight edge that gives you a visual reference on chain line. Not sure if they are still made today. Can use different width cassette spacers to fudge the cog alignment on cassette body. 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 speed cassettes all have different width spacers. Snag some from junk cassettes. Or super skinny ones designed to fit behind some 11 speed cassettes for micro adjustments. Might also try setting up tensioner so it pushes up from bottom of the chain giving you more chain wrap around your rear cog. Provided there is sufficient clearance to the chainstay. Remember single speeds are about simple fun. Aloha.

[@harmanhead1]

I’ve had the same problem. But I thought it might be the free hub slipping. Didn’t think it was possible the chain to jump as you have bigger teeth in the rear cog. I use the gusset bachelor chain tensioner btw

[@thegarethify]

I was having the same problem on my old hardtail I turned into an off road beater till I got a ballin' half link chain

[@twr2632]

Is that an oval chain ring? (watching on my phone makes it hard to tell). Could that be the problem due to varying the tension in the chain????

[@mgmdsc]

Had the same problem which was fixed by getting a chain tensioner that has both a guide and tension pulley. The single pulley chain tensioner pushes the chain down which caused the chain to slip off the back of the rear cog. The guide pulley on the 2 pulley tensioner pushes the chain up against the rear cog and the chain does not slip; while the tension pulley keeps the chain tensioned. .

[@arichartley1448]

So there's a magic gear calculator that you can use to find the gear ratios that will work on your specific bike. It takes a bit of work to get it to go but you seem to know the ratios you like already and so you should be able to figure out a close one. As a single speeder I think that as long as it's close it's ok. You will probably want to get a purpose built frame soon if you enjoy single speeding as changing gear ratios with a magic gear is pretty time consuming. I prefer a sliding dropout system. I find that based on my friends who single speed and have the various ways of creating tension that the sliders are the least likely to creak. Good luck and you are correct that SS is quite fun. It's amazing the things you can climb and how much fun you can have on such a simple bike!

[@donbosco9789]

Thing is, both chain tensioners you used were pulling the chain AWAY from the cog, for me, that seems to be the whole issue. If you cant fit an eccentric bottom bracket in your frame, the next best thing would be an eccentric rear hub. Or just use an old (or new) derailleur, adjust it with the limiting screws and you're fine. Happy trails and never give in!

[@feroxgargol]

i have the same tensioner ... on my enduro hard tail xD, i put a single link chain and sixpack cog ... my problem is the losseness of the jokeywheel, so i have have to check for tighteness on the bolt more often than a apropiate derailleur, and with time (1 year) i had lose tension on jumps

[@trenttrisch]

You still need to get the chainline just right, but you can get rid of the tensioner and a few links of chain with an EBB.

[@markkligerman6861]

When I did this I ran the chain on top of the jockey wheel, not underneath, like you have it. Perhaps not enough chain wrap?

[@mcky_msh]

Put the tensioner under the chain and zip-tie it to the chain stay. You'll get more chain wrap and it won't jump around. Don't do it super tight, just sorta snug. It'll act like a limiter strap so it can only let out so much chain slack.

[@arthurmaas3106]

Welcome to single speed life! Which bike you teammate was riding during the event? It looked really nice!

[@bikeradar]

Jack was riding a Surly Steamroller. His first ride review can be seen here www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/road/product/review-surly-steamroller-9572/

[@livefreeandshred9818]

Why not get the right chain length and ditch the tensioner? And SS should be as simple as it gets......or get a frame with an eccentric bb

[@messagedeleted1922]

Yeah I really feel hes not getting the right amount of chain tension. That chain tensioner has only one cog, a regular rear gear mech has two which really grip the chain. Hed get more chain on the gears removing the chain tensioner all together and just getting a shorter chain.

[@lifeontwowheels3964]

Its like winning lottory to get correct lengt chain because the rear axel is fixes so you cant change chain tension and chain streches out so you need to replaca that more often

[@SmevMev]

Tbh, if you guys actually tried single-speeding a bike with non-sliding, vertical dropouts, you'd realise that Reuben's gone with an entirely standard setup for this sort of thing - you can only change your chain length in 1 inch increments, so unless you're very lucky, you're not going to be able to make fine-enough adjustments to get your chain tension right. I single sped my Cotic BFe for a race a few months ago and 1/2 a link's worth of slack was enough that the chain was like a washing line. I ended up using a OneUp chainguide bracket and jockey wheel, adapted onto the ISCG05 tabs, which gave really good chain wrap and looked much neater than the derailleur-style options.

[@livefreeandshred9818]

SmevMev I have one with vertical drop outs.....but it has an eccentric bb so I don't have to deal with that bullshit.

[@SmevMev]

I had to get mine up and running on a minimal budget, so an EBB wasn't an option, but yeah, probably the better option for anyone looking to run SS long-term

[@TheAegisClaw]

Ah, my local trails.

[@yojerico5856]

So what was your gearing choice after bike calc

[@nrhudec]

You need a chain tensioner that isn't spring loaded i.e. one that is adjustable but you have to manually adjust it and lock it down. If crap gets packed between the chain and rear sprocket there isn't a spring loaded tensioner around that's strong enough to keep the chain from riding up over the sprocket teeth and skipping. Look at something like the Gusset Bachelor tensioner.

[@ridjexmc]

few tips, firstly, narrowwide is not needed for single speed, it's only for if you are shifting. if the chain is staying in the same place then the narrow wide is not needed. if your chain is coming off, use a chain catcher or a chain guard. Secondly, loose the chain tensioner. try to find a perfect gear ratio that also allows for enough chain tension, half links can also be used to adjust it in smaller increments. remember, some slack is ok.

[@VvvnimaL]

I had a SS DH bike, I put just a normal rear mech on and cut the cable about an inch long just so I could ajust it. Then I had 3 cogs (only used the middle one) they act like walls so it never slips

[@trevorp5578]

Did you ever sort out your chain slip? I know this is an old upload this video, but I converted to 29 are to a single speed using this early single later, about 5 years ago. - I experienced similar issues until I realise there was insufficient wrap around the rear cog - With my frame geometry, I was able to reverse the singer later, so it was pushing up on the chain, and therefore, creating more wrap around the rear cog - completely resolved the chain slip/skip issue that sounds similar to what you experienced. All the best.

[@nemsy4883]

What purpose do chain tensioners help with in single speeds?

[@andrewleslie9821]

Can the surly tensioner tension upwards? Might help by increasing chainwrap.

[@iamkyleme]

btw those chain tensioners cause most of the problems, break the chain till it fits, use half links to size it for a bodgy fix or go pure half link.

[@MschriberCgregan]

I'v ridden single speed for a while. The only reliable option that I have found is taping a piece of garden hose on the bottom of the chain stay, and having the chain glide through it. It does look kinda silly but it sure does the trick

[@protostamps9830]

use a couple half links! it'll change your entire world! I've trained tensioner and derailleur with no luck. but I've always used half link chains on my fixed gear bikes when I finally decided to add a couple to my singlespeed mtb I was able to get the same tension as my fixed gear bikes and haven't had a chain slip in over a year

[@bronxtowncomics9210]

Hey wats up just watched the video, I have a similar chain tensioner and the problem is that you have to bring the chain tensioner down not up towards the back leg, bring it down and it won’t come off

[@TyBraek]

I know it's extra weight but try ditching the tensioner and get a half link chain and mess around and see if you can get it to fit. Using a regular chain is way harder with a fixed axle but the half link should make it a bit more precise and the half link looks way nicer.

[@alananderson1116]

Change to the singulator push up spring to get more chain on gear.

[@reubenbakker-dyos8561]

I've tried that as well. Whatever gear combo I've tried (I've got 32 oval, 34, 36 and 36 oval chainrings with 16, 18 and 20t cogs) the chain has either been too slack for the push up to work or too taught for the drive train to spin smoothly. When it's too slack, the chain easily hits the chainstay when pushed up. Does that make sense?

[@dnewman4952]

Alan Anderson I agree with the push up spring. You need to get more chain wrap. On my SS commuter I also replaced my cog and chainring with bigger alternatives using bikecalc to make sure I kept the same ratios. I have had no trouble since.

[@alananderson1116]

I have a singulator on my ss fat bike and like it. I took aĺl the slack possible out of the chain. 8mm wrench to twist up tension .

[@alananderson1116]

On the singulator.

[@dnewman4952]

Reuben Bakker-Dyos When increasing the size of my cogs I also replaced the tensioner with an old derailleur. It looks a little more goofy but the springs are far stronger than in the tensioner. Combined with the extra chain wrap from the larger cog and chainring my chain has not slipped once. I also used to use a "ghost" ring, but wouldn't recommend that for off road riding as It could get thrown out of the chain if you had a big bump.

[@FightFilms]

Lose the tensioner and get a half-link that will work with your chain, or a half-link chain, then use sprocket/chainring combinations to dial in your chainline. Eccentric rear hub is another option.

[@Dwethepeoplerider11]

get a saint mech and wind the stop screws in, you can adjust the tension of the clutch on it so flip the lever on and wind it in all the way

[@rupert3k]

Love Radar & your Rumor cousins to bits but as for SS conversions: talk to the hand! Whether concentric BB or adjustable dropouts, genuine SS frames are too sweet to ignore. 1x & SS are both necessary kit.

[@newttella1043]

I had this issue on my first SS. It had a similar chain tensioner (and they work great and so simple). I solved the issue by putting on a slightly worn chain, between .5 and .75 wear as measured by a chain wear indicator. I think the longer teeth of the SS specific cog on the back combined with a new chain doesn't mesh very well. Maybe use a single specific chain, I dunno but this is a great way to re-use slightly used chains.

[@newttella1043]

See bottomowashington and Bryce Dueck's comments too. Same issue but different options to solve the the issue of the rear cog and tight chain tolerance.

[@michaelc8123]

I'm guessing your BB is threaded since you're running Shimano cranks. Phil Wood makes the Philcentric BB and Trickstuff makes the Exzentriker, both of which work like an EBB on a threaded frame. If it is indeed a PF30 or BB30, Wheels Manufacturing makes eccentric BBs that size you down to a 24mm spindle. Either way you get to use your Shimano crank and ditch the tensioner. They only move so much so you may have to use a half link and use a standard tooth ring (ie not narrow-wide). It may even work with an oval ring.

[@shawnpritchard366]

Swap the Surly spring from push down to push up. You'll have more chain wrap.

[@messagedeleted1922]

Id try and see how it would work if you got rid of the chain tensioner and just removed a few links from the chain itself.

[@littlewhitestormy]

now hopefully there's a second video focusing on the steamroller!

[@olivejunkie]

For my singlespeed build, I am converting an early 1980’s 6-spd shimano hyperglide cassette, fitted to a Shimano 105 hub by using Sturmey Archer Hyperglide spacers and a single gear 17T sprocket, an assembly held together by the original 12T lock-sprocket, the locking thread being on the outside of the the original freehub with the (now rare) 6 spd cassette. The correct chain line set-up was described here: www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html

[@timo8925]

I'm assuming you're using 3/32 parts. I suggest run a 1/8 chain and cog as they are made to mesh together better than standard road chains, which are made to skip over chain rings. Also, run a DMR chain tensioner in the push up position. It wraps the chain around the cog, rather than pulls it away from it. Your chain line doesn't have to be dead straight if the chain is bedded in on the cog/sprocket well. Us old school SS, MTBers ran our bikes like this back in the early 2000's!

[@teocastelvecchi]

Alse I've never got any of the type of chain tensioner your using to work well at all. Best is to get an old rear mech on there. Tried and tested every other method

[@alchemist.3]

Single speed is very very simple, the complication lies on the single component that touches the saddle, handlebar and the pedals. 😉

[@PJSinohin]

the narrow wide chain ring is making the chain too stiff making the tensioner jolt out the chain. try a regular single chainring or from a multi speed crankset. i have two SS bikes (29er 42:18, 650b 32:18) - 42T from a 2x, 32T from a 3x.

[@TrIpMo1981]

For those that don't know, if your bike has a vertical dropout you need a chain tensioner. If your bike has a horizontal dropout you don't need a chain tensioner (as you can tension teh chain my moving the back wheel forward or backward).

[@SmevMev]

Beware the tyranny of aluminium freehubs! I had to risk running singlespeed on a Hope freehub and the sprocket bit in so badly that the freehub splines deformed outwards and jammed the spacers on. Took a lot of careful persuasion and filing-off of high spots of the deformed aluminium to get them off again. I'd hoped the steel freehub body from the Pro 2 Trials/SS hub would transfer straight to the shell of a Pro 2 Evo mtb hub, but no such luck (the trials/SS hub has a slightly different diameter axle, so the bearings don't fit properly).

[@brendonnoble3296]

Are you running narrow-wide front and back? If so that is probably what is causing the problem, especially at the back. I run 1x with a clutch rear mech and just don´t need the narrow-wide chainring.

[@coco__rnd]

The best tensioner, is a derailleur without a cage ^^

[@Lak1nKnowledge]

Dial in the chainline and if your tensioner has play buy a spring loaded one or a derailleur and use that. Getting the perfect chainline is such a pain though

[@daiburt1833]

I got 3 now they're great fun 38 X 14 or 16 is my choice but I'm 60 . there's 2 different types of cassette one with two spacer's and another one with verious size spacer's so you can fine tune and it could olso be the size of your bottom bracket being either too short or long

[@davidmithen9223]

Try reversing the surly singulator so the tension pushes the chain up which will give you more wrap around the rear cog. For the chain line, take the chain off and use a long straight edge against the side of the front sprocket to see if the rear is right. Also had good results using a an LED laser level to shoot a straight line along the chain. SS is way more fun and simple once you have it right. The magic ratio is 32x18.

[@johncarman7182]

Probably been said but id try losing the narrow/wide cogs both ends and run a single speed chain. Your set up might have not had enough float in so kept catching the chain plates. Also might try a fixed tensioner rather than a sprung one after the mentioned. I love SSing, simple, quiet and feel freer. Next go rigid fork👍. Adds to the experience.

[@JavierMora-hs4op]

The problem is Thatcher you are re-using a standard bike and convert to a SS with all the disadvantages. If you want a good SS, get a specificere frame with specificere drop put in order to adjust the chain tension. Use an specific hub for single speed. You Can also but a excentric hub from White Industries ENO for SS in order to adjust a SS Freewheel in a standard frame. Consider to have guide disks around the Freewheel if you want to minimize the chain tension, and dont want the chain dropping OFF. If Tour frame is a BB30, you Can adapt an special excentric bottom bracket from niner or Rotor. Use specific Freewheel and gears for SS. And drop the chain tensioner in the garbage. Good luck

[@NoBrakes23]

The video is specifically about singlespeed conversions. Obviously an SS specific frame will clear up many of these issues.

[@manbro426]

Do best hardtails of this year

[@joeraines8836]

Its really quite simple,run a straight edge (on a clean chainring)back to the small gear on the rear axel, and if your not lined up shift the spacers on the wheel till you are.I machined my own spacers after I determined what it took to make that happen with the storebought set of many thin spacers supplied in the overpriced single speed kit.