Propane Torpedo Heater Not Lighting & How they Work

[@ussreeves]

I’ve fixed several things for a friend of mine, mower, snowblower etc…, and I only charge him for the parts I use. So he just gave me a Reddy Heater RLP35, 35000 btu propane heater. Before I try to use it I searched for and found your video and I’m glad I did. Now I feel educated just enough to give mine a try. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.

[@paulwilhelmus4480]

Thank you for the all the trouble shooting tips which helped me fix my heater. My problem was the heater would start and run for just a minute or two. If I bypassed the high-limit switch, the heater would run but get so hot, the unit would literally glow red. Eventually took the regulator from the hose to my local propane store. The guy said the regulator was either on or off and could not adjust the propane/air mixture. Took my regulator home and revisited some of your tips about the propane possibly "freezing" the regulator. So I put my heat gun on the regulator and used a couple of rubber mallets to "tap" around it its housing. Reassembled everything for the umpteenth time and success. Still have the fumes and it sounds like an F-16 taking off but hey, it warms the garage. Couldn't have fixed it without your insight. Thanks for taking the time to make the video and answer questions.

[@davemail3]

Friends Dad and uncle were working on a car in a cold shop this last fall and used a heater similar to that. They failed to partially open up a door or window for ventilation. Friends mom found them in the morning. They had died from not having shop vented. Please always remind people to vent. Your vids are very educational, thanks.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Dave D I have a pretty well sealed and insulated garage and made it a point a few years ago to put the Carbon Monoxide detector in there. I can run the heater for 8 hours and it will never set off the detector. But if I start a small engine it goes off in 60 seconds. I feel very safe running these heaters in an enclosed shop but a Carbon Monoxide detector is always a good idea.

[@1fanger]

sixtyfiveford Hi 65, I would tend to think that you should match the heater to the space to be heated. I am not sure, but those two men who died may have been asphyxiated, not CO poisoned, esp. if the heater was too powerful and just consumed all the oxygen. Dave D didn`t mention the cause of death. Kero heaters will not poison by CO. You may get black lung, though LOL. Thanks for the videos.

[@jeffbessieswonderfuladvent4078]

I have a duraheat 60000 btu and it works fine but I have noticed in the last few days it is blowing off a lot more smell of unburnt propane like there is propane that is not getting burnt fully is there a way to clean some opening or something because I use this little heater daily for dogs.Like I said it seems like lots of unburnt fuel.

[@aquaticthumb5193]

It's leaking soapy water will find it

[@nonexvcghdfgh]

Sounds like a bs story. Many many heaters like this are used all over the country and no one has died. I've used these in garages and construction jobs for 20 years and never had problems. Bs !

[@shenipsitforgecjm430]

Thanks! By watching your video, I found out exactly what was wrong with my old Coleman propane heater. I obtained a new thermocouple for about $25 and installed it myself. Now my heater is working as it should, and I can use it to heat my garage when I work on my cars. Thanks again! -Chris

[@sixtyfiveford]

Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.

[@richardaldous3608]

I've been looking all over, can't find anyone with my problem. This is a brand new machine! Plug in full tank, plug in power,

[@sixtyfiveford]

Sounds like the propane tank safety shut off. Turn the tank valve ON and wait a few seconds, turn it off for a few seconds(you'll hear a faint click), then turn it back on. It should now flow gas when you hold in the bypass/pilot button.

[@SteveRobReviews]

Nice- since you have the propane and kerosene type which do you prefer. I have a kerosene 215,000 btu , I can also run it on diesel , kerosene is way too pricy. burns almost a gal per hour. Never had a problem.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Steve Rob I prefer Diesel(Red Dye/ Off Road) over Kerosene. I think diesel smells better, has more BTU per gallon and is a fraction the price. Propane= 91,200 BTU per gallon Diesel=138,800 BTU per gallon Kerosene=135,000 BTU per gallon My current cost 2014 Propane=$3.00 gallon= $3.28 per 100,000 BTU of Heat Diesel(dyed)=3.15 gallon =$2.26 per 100,000 BTU of Heat Kerosene=9.60 gallon= $7.10 per 100,000 BTU of Heat

[@tennaj1367]

Thx!! 🤔 Watching this video I'm pretty sure my thermal coupler is bad! Because it only stays lit when I push and hold the override button. Don't care if I hold it for 5 minutes it's going to the IMMEDIATELY shut off when I let it go. I'm wondering if there's any way to test it or are the symptoms pretty much saying that it's bad? Also I hope we can find a correct model thermal coupler. 😮 BTW. I have the exact same model so I can just follow this video exactly . 👍👍 Subscribed 👌

[@rlhagemann]

Great video. Learned allot. However mine is fairly new. Only used a few times. Now when I go to start it it won’t even flame up when pushing the button. I can smell propane and can see the spark. I’m wondering if it’s the 20psi valve on the hose not letting enough propane or something. I noticed it used to heat pretty hot then even at full blast (when I could get it started) it wasn’t very warm at all.

[@sixtyfiveford]

The pressure regulator in the hose goes bad fairly regularly.

[@LH-kz2nf]

I have a question about a protemp 100,000 propane heater. With the switch in the off position is the fan suppose to come on when you plug it into a receptacle? The control knob turn past the off position then counter clockwise to off, low, medium and high. The instructions say turn it to high for the ignitor to light it and then back down to where I need it. I thought the control in the off position would turn the heat and the fan off. I don't know how it suppose to work this is the first time I've tried it the heater was given to me for my shop. Thanks

[@packetattack7437]

Really awesome video, I have a Pro 100 that's about 20 years old and it went out. Will be fixing it this weekend after the new thermocouple comes in..

[@whatnowok]

Thank you for explaining in detail what each part does I kind of already knew a little bit but thank you I like other videos

[@jonpatzer5747]

Great video but have you ever had everything work but spark keeps going after it lights?

[@sixtyfiveford]

The spark stays on indefinitely and never shuts off.

[@craiggerlach5548]

bought a scheu 150k btu unit long time ago, new in box. just pulled out today, likely 20 years after built, hooked everything up, supplied gas and power, hit the switch, it ignited, flames, red, came out front but fan never kicked in, spun fan with stick, counterclockwise from rear, hope correct, never took off so shut down. was wondering if supposed to ignite then spin fan, or if fan should spin from start to begin troubleshooting. damn starter armature frosted up in this -25F weather we have had and need to start up my ride, thought heat up front of vehicle from a distance but no joy...

[@craiggerlach5548]

box did get a little moist through the years, was actually some weird fungus on end with fan inside box, stringy stuff just came after the 2 wet summers we had, live close to swamp and lake so new things coming back alive after 2 decades of drought.. my fan was a little stiff, will try to add some oil to bushing, my fan is bolted in and need to take off support braces from underneath inside cubby so overly complex compared to yours.

[@craiggerlach5548]

I drilled a hole in the end by rear bushing, oiled it up, and mine started up, was able to warm up my car and start it.. woopwoop...

[@sixtyfiveford]

The fan will just have oillite bushings and I'm sure the lubricant is just gummy. I generally put a few drops of transmission fluid on the shaft, next the bushing. It soaks in and lubricates everything.

[@johnhondrogen7630]

John Hondrogen I reposted this so I can get a little feedback. Thanks! I have a Universal 85-FAC All Pro SPC-85 made by Scheu and have been trying to get it running. It's been idle for 10 years and worked great before. Here's what I have done: Full 20 lb propane tank Cleaned and gapped plug (and I've taken everything else apart to check) New thermocouple, relay and high temp. sensor Taken apart lp hose and regulator and am getting propane through the hose The unit starts up but with only a small flame (1 inch) and goes out when I release the igniter button no matter how long I hold it. What should I check next? Thanks

[@sixtyfiveford]

Sounds like your just not getting enough fuel. This can be from the turn on procedure you use with the propane tank, the regulator of the valving that the propane flows through internally. -First, the OPD device built into the propane tank can fight you without proper turn on procedure. Connect everything. Turn the propane tank knob on, wait a few seconds. Now turn it back off for a few seconds(if it is quiet enough in your shop you'll hear a click which is the OPD(overfill protection device) disengaging). Now turn it back on for the final time. Fuel should flow freely. A little background on the OPD: it limits huge out rushes of propane and stops it from being overfilled. The initial connecting and opening the valve can trigger the OPD as it thinks it is a large out rush/leak. -Second, the regulator could be limiting the amount of flow. Disconnect the hose at the heater or anywhere behind the regulator. With the regulator hooked to the propane tank open the propane tank valve. You should get a large volume of propane coming out. A small hiss of propane would signify a defective/limiting regulator. -Third, if both the other check out fine you will need to take apart the valve, piping and nozzle to check for an obstruction.

[@toddmitchell2125]

Great explanation of how they function! Thanks! I'm not sure what is going on with mine. It starts and the flame is small.... It just doesn't torch up big enough to create the normal flame and heat.

[@jdisdetermined]

Are you low on propane? How cold is the area/room the heater and tank is stored in?

[@chefmike4414]

I have one and the flame is only lit on one side and very small like the size of a torch flame, it looks like a pilot light. I can get it to light and run but I'm pretty sure the flame is supposed to have much more coverage inside the torpedo. It seems to me the flame is only lit at the nozzle and doesn't spread to the rest of the surface plate or whatever you call it. I can barley get the shop to 70 on a 55 degree day and that's struggling. In a way it's like blowing a fan from behind a propane torch. I wonder how to fix it. I'm good with that stuff, just not sure what's wrong or where to start. Can you help?

[@sixtyfiveford]

Sounds like a regulator problem not allowing enough gas to flow.

[@markvetter164]

I would appreciatte any suggestions. I have a Master MH-60V-GFA LP torpedo heater. It fires correctly but the flame comes out of the heater at least 12" past the metal canopy. I have to turn the control valve way down to keep the flame inside the unit. I am using a hose with a regulator on it and the hose works great on an identical Mater heater I have so don't think thats it. Thanks in advance to any recommendations.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Bad regulator

[@markvetter164]

@@sixtyfiveford You’re speaking of the regulator on the hose that connects the propane tank to the heater? If that’s the case then I wonder why the other heater I have works perfect with that hose and regulator?

[@chrisforeals4385]

Great video. What about units like mine that have advanced electrical circuitry? I replaced the thermocouple AND gas valve, still no fire past prime. How does one diagnose the PCB (cicuit board)?

[@sixtyfiveford]

+Chrissy Foreals Most will have 1 or 2 electrical relays with a clear cover. The contacts can get dirty and not engage. The cover can be taken off of the relay and the contacts cleaned.

[@jordansmith5166]

So I have a quick question. I tested continuity between the two wires it’s self and nothing. The heaters fan comes on the spark plug is sparking and propane is flowing. I don’t want to dump a bunch of money in it when the a new heater is only 100 dollars. By the way same exact heater that’s in your video. Any help would be great thanks!

[@ArcticBlues1]

Wow! You just taught me how a thermocouple works! I always wondered about that! Thank you again :) You Rock!

[@sixtyfiveford]

Thanks.

[@-JonnyBoy-]

Saw one of these running (inside a building) and it had large flames mostly orange/yellow in color inside it and the odor off it was pretty strong. (The person working in there said it gives them a headache) I told them I'm sure that's not working right by the look of the flames. Am I correct?

[@sixtyfiveford]

You're correct. They burn very clean and odor free when running correctly.

[@rickygray7767]

Thanks for the great video. I have a dyna glo pro 125 k btu LP heater that will ignite but after the 30 second period and even if I hold the ignite button for 60 seconds will go out once the button is released. I have replaced the thermocoupler and tempeture switch with no improvement. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[@sixtyfiveford]

The only other thing is the relay box. It is about the size of an old school ice cube with a black or clear cover and half a dozen wires going to it. The contact points get a little corroded and a very fine(300+) grit sand paper needs to be ran between them to clean them up.

[@johnhondrogen7630]

I have a Universal 85-FAC All Pro SPC-85 made by Scheu and have been trying to get it running. It's been idle for 10 years and worked great before. Here's what I have done: Full 20 lb propane tank Cleaned and gapped plug (and I've taken everything else apart to check) New thermocouple, relay and high temp. sensor Taken apart lp hose and regulator and am getting propane through the hose The unit starts up but with only a small flame (1 inch) and goes out when I release the igniter button no matter how long I hold it. What should I check next? Thanks!

[@tonyveno]

Hey John I have the same problem with a 150,000 BTU did you find a fix?

[@johnhondrogen7630]

Tony Veno No solution yet.

[@TheGeno3000]

I have an All-Pro SPC-40 (40k BTU) propane heater. It tries to start but the fan actually blows the flame out. If I temporarily block the fan intake it will light normally. The flame still goes out when I release the primer button so I'm sure the thermocouple is bad. My question is, would a bad thermocouple cause both issues?

[@michaelacosta6406]

Thanks for the video, changed the thermocouple for $9 from Amazon and works perfectly. Nice and toasty now 🙂

[@sixtyfiveford]

Awesome

[@PainesvilleSpeedway]

Thank you for this video. I didn't know about that huge gap on the plug - I bought a 400k BTU Propane on the cheap because it wouldn't fire up. They had replaced the plug before I got it and the only thing I did was check it for spark - When that didn't work, I replaced it, no help. Then I gave in and found your video - 5 minutes later and two adjustments on the gap (too wide at first), I think that thing could heat a house up in 3 or 4 minutes!

[@sixtyfiveford]

Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.

[@hoglundh]

Great Video. I have a Dewalt DXH90FAV. Could not find a replacement thermocouple anywhere. I tested it, it measured the correct 20+ mv. But still did not work. I thought I would check the ma, and found it produced 0 ma. I checked it against a one that I know works, and it produced about the same voltage, as well as I think 20 ma as well. All I need to find is a thermocouple that is about 10" long and has the right thread for my unit.

[@sixtyfiveford]

+Higher-Ground Farm Does you thermocouple have two spade wire connectors coming out the side?

[@hoglundh]

It looks like this. It does have a brass block with two connectors coming out. Sorry about the crappy photo. I had to use my scanner, as my camera is on the fritz. drive.google.com/file/d/0ByPnRZK3U8Yjc3BXUjJhZklBTUE/view?usp=sharing

[@sixtyfiveford]

Those 2 terminals connect into a relay on the electronic panel. I've had the contact points on the relay(they can be cleaned) get oxidized and not work. You can bypass the relay by connecting these two spade connects on your thermocouple to determine if it is working correctly.

[@hoglundh]

I already tried that trick so I picked up a Universal thrermocouple, and am going to install today. Wish me luck.

[@hoglundh]

+sixtyfiveford That fixed it. An 8.99 universal thermocoupler did it. I did have to drill a new hole in the back plate, to fit the diameter of the snap in holder, but it is all good now. Thanks for your video. It pointed me in the right direction!

[@jsmith5622]

Great video on how these heaters work and areas of troubleshooting. I have an older Dyna Glo 40k unit (RMC-FA40) that won't stay lit and could use some help. Already replaced the thermocouple. Blew lines out with forced air. Good continuity on wires and high temp switch. It fires right up and blows heat like crazy as long as the gas knob is depressed. Cuts out the second it's released. I've tried letting it warm up for 60+ seconds and no luck. I'm stumped! Appreciate your help!

[@sixtyfiveford]

A lot of these have a relay with a bunch of wires going into it. Most have a clear plastic cover so you can see inside. You take off the clear plastic cover and you can clean the little metal relay contacts/ switch contacts.

[@jsmith5622]

@@sixtyfiveford Will give that a try. Thank you.

[@sixtyfiveford]

@@jsmith5622 Just use a very fine piece of sand paper 300+. I have a video on automotive relays and how to clean them if you need.

[@jsmith5622]

@@sixtyfiveford So this unit is old school and all mechanical. "Clicker" style ignitor like a bbq grill (which works) and thermocouple/high temp wires connect to bottom of gas valve to activate the magnet. No relay/plastic cover to speak of. Should make it easy to diagnose, but guess not. I jumpered the high temp sensor wires and unit still shuts off when knob is released. Multi-meter shows current flowing to the magnet after it shuts off, but wondering if it's enough or if the magnet do-hickey is shot. I'm at a loss.

[@sixtyfiveford]

@@jsmith5622 Try removeing one wire from the high temp sensor. It may be stuck closed.

[@vettematt]

I have a Mr Heater Contractor series 35,000 btu heater. I can get it to light and stay lit after i let go of the button. Then it will quit after a minute or so. Is that the thermocoupler too?

[@sixtyfiveford]

I would suspect your regulator on the hose is freezing up.

[@LeFunTime]

I've recently bought off (second hand) a very new looking torpedo heater that is similar to the one in this video. However, when I got home to test it out, everything turned on fine (fans were running, spark was there, etc..). After releasing the propane, I waited a few seconds and held the button in hopes that it would turn on. For a flash of a second, there was an ignited blue flame which quickly dissipated and died. I've been trying to figure out all day what the issue was. You mentioned in your video that it could be the thermocouple but when I held the igniter button, the initial flame dies and nothing else happens after. Not sure what else to do!

[@sixtyfiveford]

The OPD valve on the tank is generally the issue. There's a procedure to connecting these. Connect the gas line to the propane tank. Turn on the gas and wait for 2 to 3 seconds. Turn off the gas and wait for another 2 to 3 seconds. You may hear a light click internally, This is the OPD valve resetting. Now turn the gas back on and you should be ready to go.

[@LeFunTime]

@@sixtyfiveford Thanks for the quick reply! I tried the OPD valve reset but I'm still getting the same issue. I recorded the steps I took and what the heater looks like when it starts for a second. I can send you the video if it may help!

[@sixtyfiveford]

@@LeFunTime if the heater will not continue to run while you're holding the button in then the regulator built into the hose is bad.

[@wilcox2301]

I have this exact same burner I just picked up used. It works but I don't believe it's burning all the propane. Smells awful like unused propane and takes a lot longer than I'd expect to heat my small garage. Thoughts?

[@sixtyfiveford]

wilcox2301 If it smells like raw propane then you have a leak somewhere between the bottle and the valve on the the heater. Any propane in the burn chamber will 100% burn. That being said, propane burning will give off an odor that is normal. Some people are a lot more sensitive to the smell than others. I would say it would take a 50,000 BTU heater an hour to heat a 2 car garage from 20F to 70F(assuming it is insulated)

[@wilcox2301]

sixtyfiveford Thank you for the reply. Garage is not insulated 100%. Also the regulator on it isn't working great either. It tends to go out on the lower end (50k BTU and works okay at the higher end (85k BTU). I just wanted to make sure it is 1) Safe, and 2) working optimally.

[@sixtyfiveford]

I think you're fine as long as there isn't a leak in the hose. Propane has the annoyance of freezing itself up inside the tank and in turn freezing up the regulator. If you store your propane cylinder where it is warm(house) it will work a ton better when you need it outside. Moonshiners blow themselves up because they light fires under their propane tanks to keep them from freezing up. I have insulated walls and door but not the ceiling(very tall). In one hour 50,000 btu will take my garage from 20F-50F+- which feels great. If I insulated the ceiling or put plastic sheeting on the rafters to keep the heat down I could get it to 70F in an hour.

[@awstott]

Do you know which valve coil that is in that heater? I had mine ripped all apart and the part went missing. I see there is two different sizes -7111 and 00503. Based on your video I think it's the 7111 as it is about 1.5" vs 1.25" for the 00503. Not sure changing the thermocouple fixed my problem however I had bought one last winter thanks you this video and just got around to installing it today as it's finally cold again. Without that solenoid valve I can't test it though. Thanks for a great how to video!

[@sixtyfiveford]

I don't recall. However I believe one it larger diameter than the other so you could find one on Ebay or similar and have the seller measure how big of round it is. This will let you know which one you need.

[@radicaljbr2816]

I have a propane heater like this but my problem is that when it’s running it burns my eyes while I’m the garage. And there is also a nasty sulfur or chlorine kind of smell. Is this something that can be adjusted? I can’t do anything in the garage while it’s running as the eye burn is unbearable. Thank you

[@sixtyfiveford]

This means it is putting too much fuel into the burn and needs less. It's running rich. The regulator at the propane tank is what controls this and is likely bad.

[@jordangregersen1201]

I have the same heater. My flame is about 1/4 around missing. What could be wrong?

[@codykellogg9738]

I was able to replace the thermocouple and it stayed lit... but doesnt seem to have good flames. Any ideas on how to make the flame better "Bigger"? I used the knob and it does a little but not like in your video.

[@sixtyfiveford]

The propane pressure regulator controls this. They go bad all the time.

[@miketwocoat]

I bought two brand-new Dyna Glo propane workplace heaters are use them to heat the new homes that were spraying in . Today I was spraying enamel on all the doors and trim and both my heaters kept shutting off. I have a feeling somethings getting dirty maybe the heat sensor

[@sixtyfiveford]

Sounds like the propane regulators/bottles were freezing up. This is a very common problem that can be overcome by using larger bottles and or intermittently heating the regulators/bottles with the heater.

[@44stevenson]

what if you aren't getting spark from the plug?

[@ciscokid2444]

A friend has one (Readdy heater) with a switch no knob that he just plugs and unplugs to make it run. Mine has a knob that you have to push in and wait for the thermocouple to get hot then you can turn to variate the output. Can I just plug and unplug mine to operate it?

[@sixtyfiveford]

His has a computer telling the pilot when to light. Yours is always going to be a manual light and there's no converting it. The nice thing is yours will probably last three times longer than his.

[@ciscokid2444]

@@sixtyfiveford Do you know what brands have that computer ignition? The reason I ask is I want to have a unit that is thermostatically controlled and that always comes on the larger BTU units only mine is a Dyno Glo pro (70K-125K) they make a wireless thermostat that controls an outlet but I need a propane heater that would run just by on and off switch not manually.

[@ciscokid2444]

Do the ones with a computer ignition use a photocell instead of thermocouple?

[@notcharles]

Good one! Thank you. You confirmed my suspicions - I ran mine to warm the shop by clamping the starter button in. Didn't get the High Heat, but enough! Nice video.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.

[@matleg8019]

Great Video, But I put new thermocoupler in and still the flame goes out when I release the pilot lever.. Everything works great when the lever is pushed in. Whats my next move? It's a Reddy Heater 75-125.000 BTU and it looks just like the one you worked on. Thanks

[@sixtyfiveford]

Take your relay out; little box with a bunch of wires going into it with generally a clear cover. You need to check the contact points on the relay are making a good connection

[@matleg8019]

Ok I will check tonight and get back with ya. Thanks

[@matleg8019]

Ok the relay out only has solder joints nothing to clean off. Solder joints look good. What do I do next?

[@sixtyfiveford]

If it is newer there is likely to be a temperature shut off switch. The kill the power to the thermal couple if it sense the unit it too hot. It is supposed to shut the unit off and reset itself once the unit has cooled. If yours has one it will be about the size of a marble with 2 wires plugged into it. Take these wires off and test with them not touching and then with the two wires connected together. encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTg3dsk4hi5XYhBJZgUH8Z247kFR-TYU2PgABbraYu8e5ylSlkKdw

[@matleg8019]

Ok so pull wires off make sure there not touching and test? Then test with wires touching? If it works with wires touching or not, can I run heater that way until I get a new Temp shut of switch?

[@DK-BigTimeShare]

Great video, the most informative I've found. Any tips for testing the gas valve solenoid? I was able to get mV on the thermocouple, but even if getting the thermocouple red-hot, it doesn't keep the gas valve open. I get the thermocouple red hot, press the plunger for the gas, I can only get gas to flow when I'm holding the plunger (testing with the thermocouple where I can hit it with a torch).

[@Marklovesfamily]

Thanks for Sharing. I think mine is about to go out soon. Where would I find a thermo coupler?

[@sixtyfiveford]

Mark Strickland Online seams to be loaded with them. They are a pretty basic item and relatively inexpensive.

[@tblbaby]

nice fix / info ... I always worried about carbon monoxide and what is dangerous or not when burning unvented for heat. Have any good insight on that?

[@sixtyfiveford]

tblbaby I have a pretty well sealed and insulated garage and made it a point a few years ago to put the Carbon Monoxide detector in there. I can run the heater for 8 hours and it will never set off the detector. But if I start a small engine it goes off in 60 seconds. I feel very safe running these heaters in an enclosed shop.

[@tblbaby]

Hey, good info :). Somehow my settings changed and I did't get this. That's some great info on propane heaters. I know people use them but never knew how safe or not. Wonder if kerosene is the same situation.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Yeah, I almost solely run my Kerosene/Diesel heater. Carbon Monoxide isn't a problem with these heaters. But the one fear would be if you used a heater to large for the space it would use up all the oxygen and asphyxiation could happen. The area would have to be pretty air tight as well. Asphyxiation is generally what people die from when they use a heater in the cab of their truck and go to sleep.

[@robertmuir4496]

I have a 60,000 Master and last night it was working fine but after a few hours the flames went really low.I have it hook up to a 80lb tank and it's full.Do the tip on these screw up?Can I clean it with a metal brush?

[@sixtyfiveford]

Sounds like your regulator froze up from the propane. I bet it works just fine after sitting a few hours.

[@robertmuir4496]

Thanks.Going out to my barn later today.lol I got a new one and bigger at Tractor supply last night.Two is always better :-))Thanks again

[@zebra1932]

Having the same issue - as long as I hold down the by-pass button the flame flows but as soon as I stop it goes out. I just replaced the thermo coupler still flame will not stay on. Could it be the little plunger or as you called "little dudad" that doesn't go bad very often. I bought this unit new at a flea market still in the box.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Some units have a relay on the circuit board and the contacts can get dirty, but generally only after years of use. Does your thermocouple have two spade connectors in the side like the one in the video?

[@zebra1932]

+sixtyfiveford Yes same as yours. The guy who sold me the unit had like 20 new in the box could they be old and sat up for a long time?? As long as I hold the by-pass button down the flame is good so doesn't that prove all other componets in the tube are working? Tks for you assistance buddy!

[@sixtyfiveford]

Yeah, the style in the video is 10+ years old. I think your relay contacts are dirty. It is a about the size of a marshmallow and has a clear covering. You pull off the clear cover and you can see the metal contacts. Use some really fine 200+grit sand paper and clean them.

[@zebra1932]

I'll give that a shot again tks for the help!!

[@Lanninglongarmmowing]

No sawdust stove for heat?

[@sixtyfiveford]

Love2boat92 I use the portable heaters as I rarely spend more than an hour or two in the garage at a time.

[@Lanninglongarmmowing]

sixtyfiveford That makes sense.

[@joeyreid6318]

What if you have no spark? When I plug mine in, there's no spark at the plug. Worked fine this morning but now it won't start.

[@sixtyfiveford]

More than likely your ignition coil is bad.

[@joeyreid6318]

And how exactly do I go about testing the coil?

[@sixtyfiveford]

If power is going to it and it doesn't spark, it's dead.

[@DaneStCyr]

Replaced thermocouple and temp switch and igniter block, still only runs with switch depressed Am I looking at magnet? Thanks

[@sixtyfiveford]

Some of these use a relay to hold the electromagnet open. Generally it'll be a little cube with a clear cover. There are little contacts in there that can have corrosion and can be cleaned up with fine sandpaper after you take off the clear cover.

[@markhoover5915]

Dane did you get yours working? I have the same model as in this video in like new condition. I have replaced my thermocouple (with the one linked to this video), temp switch tested good and mine only runs with the igniter switch depressed also.

[@larrylclappjr]

The fan reminds me of an old GM heater fan. I used to drill a small hole on the plate covering the rear bushing and oiling it. Then just cover hole with Permatex or tape. That quieted a lot of fans back in the day.

[@jjames57]

Mine has good spark and i can smell propane but it won't light. Could it be the regulator?

[@sixtyfiveford]

The regulator does go bad but will generally dump tons of propane when it does and or the regulator will leak propane. You should be able to hear it hissing propane while pushing the ignite button. Sometime the propane bottle OPD device can restrict the propane flow if not properly hooked up. Connect the propane hose to the bottle. Turn on the bottle valve. Wait 3 seconds, then turn it back off. You may hear a light click inside the propane bottle. This is the OPD valve resetting. Now turn the valve back on and the OPD should be fully open and ready to deliver propane.

[@therealslimshaddy93]

When i push the button, its not allowing propane to flow, but will finally start after many attempts, the flam is very small even when i crank it up eventually working just fine unless i shut it down.

[@DAS-Videos]

Nice. Question about the kerosene heater. Can it run on home heating oil? Also, is a propane heater safer than a kerosene heater?

[@sixtyfiveford]

Dasdfjkl They have the same safety concerns and one is not more dangerous than the other. I have always ran all my heaters with regular diesel fuel which is identical to #2 heating oil.

[@scootermagavin12]

I have a similar heater the first two times I used it it worked great. The last time i used it it lite of but the flame is very low and not producing very much heat. Any idea what the problem could be?

[@sixtyfiveford]

Your propane safety valve isn't open all the way. To fix this: -Open the valve and wait 2seconds -Shut the valve and wait 2 seconds(you'll hear a click) -Open it back up and you should be good to go. If you hear a click when you open it the second time you will need to close it one more time and reopen it.

[@quinnjones1221]

Help, no spark coming from the spark plug? I jumper the heat cutoff sensor. Still no spark. I check the sparkplug and its showing 47 ohms of resistance? Thoughts?

[@sixtyfiveford]

Likely your spark ignitor is bad. These generally also have a relay box in them. The relay box has a series of metal contacts inside the can get corroded. Most of the time the relay box is clear with 6 to 10 wires coming out of it. If yours has this you can take off the cover and use really fine sandpaper and clean all the contacts.

[@quinnjones1221]

@@sixtyfiveford I will give this a try...let you know the results this weekend and thanks for the reply

[@ot0m0t0]

How much power does the the little thermal thingy make? Could we charge a cellphone (in a pinch) with a fire using that?

[@sixtyfiveford]

ot0m0t0 Around 30-60 millivolts. So 0.03-0.06 volts. You would have to get several, but it is a possibility.

[@bobbailey8246]

It's only millivolts, not enough to charge a cell phone, not even enough to light an LED.

[@254triple2]

Would there be any reason why you could not un-solder that 2 pin connector and re-solder to a new thermocouple. Asking because mine just went out and need heat now and home depot sells the thermocouple but it doesn't have the 2 pin hookup but mine looks to be just soldered on.

[@sixtyfiveford]

The pins are a break in the electrical connection inside the thermocouple wire. This allows a relay to cut the power instantly where without it would take 5 seconds if the flame went out, where raw propane was dumped into the room.

[@moua509]

Great video! I have an older model Mr Heater 30-55k btu forced air propane heater (mh55fav) and it runs great after I replaced the thermocouple except for one problem, the flame wont get big at all. When you bypass the thermocouple for starting the heater and on max setting (while running) the flame is only like an inch or two. Do you think the in-line regulator is bad or could it be a clogged orifice? Thanks!

[@sixtyfiveford]

Either the inline regulator or the safety valve on the propane tank is partially close. When you connect a propane tank: turn it on approx 1 turn, then turn it off and wait a few seconds(sometimes you can hear an audible click of the safety valve disengaging), then turn it back on full. This will make sure the safety valve isn't partially shutting off the flow internally.

[@moua509]

thank you! I'll give that a try tomorrow!

[@moua509]

Figured it out! It was a bad high limit switch. I bypassed it and the heater works great! Now i just need to find a few of them. Thanks for your help!

[@Roboman412]

I've changed my spark plug, and the thermocouple and the flame won't stay ignited. Any ideas? Same model as video.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Some have a over temp sensor that can go out. You can also clean the contact on the relay. It has a bunch of wires going into it and a clear cover that'll come off to allow the contact to be cleaned with fine sandpaper.

[@nchomey]

I'm curious - with the thermostat override switch, when the temperature cools down sufficiently, does the heater restart on its own? I ask because I plan to use one of these on a powder coating oven that I am building. I will have a PID and thermocouple to measure the oven temp and want to turn the propane flow on and off. My plan was to drive a propane solenoid, however now I'm thinking it must be possible to tap into that existing thermostat valve electrical circuit. Do you think this is possible?

[@sixtyfiveford]

Once the thermo safety switch shuts it off, it won't restart by itself. The gas start switch will need to be pressed by hand, every time.

[@nchomey]

@@sixtyfiveford Thanks for the quick response! I didn't explain myself clearly though. The valve works either manually or electrically once the thermocouple heats up. However, if I understand correctly, the thermocouple can be overridden by the thermostat when it gets too hot. So, I'm wondering if it is possible to essentially add another thermostat into that electrical circuit that will close the valve when an it measures a certain external temperature? It could even just be a button or switch - anything that can switch the voltage that goes to the valve. Writing this out, I'm pretty certain it can be done... But I'd love your thoughts. That was a fantastic video

[@trustwrthy]

So I got a thermocouple from Home Depot but it doesn't have the two connections and you said in the video it controls something else.?Can do without them can? I connect them together?

[@sixtyfiveford]

It is a safety and allows the thermocouple to shut off the gas instantly. They are pretty cheap on amzn.to/2fZIBV0

[@sharpx777]

I don't think you can, this model uses an electromagnet and what you got from home depot is probably a mechanical one which is similar to this but without the electrical contacts, the 2 prongs that he said are used for another function are actually the voltage supply for the electromagnet (a thermocouple does not produce electricity, it "couples" based on a temp threshold - the one in this vid I think has a mechanical linkage to an electrical contact which comes on when it reaches the set temperature).

[@markroeder2491]

No...the thermocouple actually produces about 10-25 millivolts that close the solenoid on the gas valve. The male spade connectors are for the high temperature limit switch. These should be shorted unless the high temp. limit is reached. I have seen quite a few millivolt solenoids go bad.

[@katherinew.timothy5456]

Zeth Loberman does it run without the two wires on the thermocoupler

[@InterstellarFrequency]

Dude thank you so much for the info I got a CHF160 Duraflame from my uncle. it does not work do to the Thermocouple I am sure is shot. after watching your video it runs as long as I push the bypass it runs fine. I am so happy I found your video. I now just hope that I can find the right Thermocouple for it and ill be a happy man. Thank you again. (almost 4 years ago on Dec 9.)

[@sixtyfiveford]

Sounds like a thermocouple. Thanks, I'm glad you video was helpful.

[@InterstellarFrequency]

@@sixtyfiveford yep I thought it might be the solenoid that went out nope. It is the couple. Need to buy one off of Amazon. Thx

[@InterstellarFrequency]

Hay by the way I hope you do a video of welding 101 class. I would love to see what you teach. Hope there is a way that you could put a welder shield on the cam so we could see what you see when welding. Thx man.

[@kartboarder22g17]

Thanks for showing this, I have not taken mine apart yet but have owned it less than a year and am trying the warranty route, which doesn't seem to be lending me a return call. Anyways mine lights up and about a min. after I release the button the flame shuts off. What are your thoughts on this? The overheat switch or the thermocouple acting goofy?

[@sixtyfiveford]

+Kartboarder22G Thermocouple. The thermocouple should allow you to release the button within 10 seconds on average if it is working correctly.

[@kartboarder22g17]

Thanks, yes I can release it and it runs but a min. or two later it shuts off. Almost like the overheat switch is coming on too early. I'm going to give it another try tonight, I was able to get a hold of someone from the company and they suggested hold it for 3-5 min. to purge it well. I'll give that a try tonight and report back to them tomorrow.

[@sixtyfiveford]

It sounds like the overheat switch is too sensitive. To diagnose it and eliminate other issues we can bypass this switch. I'm not sure of your wireing but they either connect the two wires when it gets hot or disconnect them(2 different styles). That's all the switch does. You can test it with a multimeter or just unplug the wires and tape them so they don't touch each other or the body of the machine. If it works normally you know the sensor is bad. If now it won't stay running at all when the wires don't touch, you'll need to connect the two wires directly together: then try it and if it works normally without shutting down, your sensor is bad. If it still stalls out randomly then we'll look elsewhere as the sensor is good.

[@DrakeMiester]

I replaced the thermocouple on my Reddy Heater Pro 100 forced air propane heater,and it will still not stay lit,held the the knob down for no less than a minute and it shuts off as soon as the knob hit the top.I replace the module on it a couple years back and it ran good all last winter,this winter I went to use it and it would not stay lit.I use this heater only a couple times a winter in my garage and it seems like each winter there is an issue with it. Suggestions

[@sixtyfiveford]

Take a look at your Relay. More than likely the little contacts are dirty and need a very fine sand paper to clean them. Pop off the clear cover and you'll see them.

[@DrakeMiester]

sixtyfiveford I'll give that a look see,thanks for the quick reply.

[@DrakeMiester]

Well I check all contacts,no red flags ,no build up or other indicators, nice and tight connections. Another suggestion ?

[@sixtyfiveford]

I wonder if your model has a high limit safety switch that is defective. They are a little device, about as round as a dime with 2 metal spade terminals for wires to connect to. Some newer units use these to shut off the unit if it gets too hot.

[@DrakeMiester]

Yes my model does have that switch.I guess that is the next item to purchase.Thanks so much for the great advice.

[@mikec3281]

I have a reddy heater. It blows heat only on low setting. If i try to adjust to a higher setting the flame goes out. It sometimes will run on low heat 15 minutes then the flame will go out. I also have to turn the propane on and wait 15 seconds before I push the ignition if I try and turn the propane on and then push to ignite it will give a short burst and then nothing will ignite. After running for 15 minutes sometimes it the flame will dwindle down them go out or just go out all together. Could it be the regulator? I have never tried it when it is warm out. It's always around 15° to 30° when I use the heater.

[@sixtyfiveford]

It's either your tank or your pressure regulator. There is a process to hooking up the tank and turning it on to make sure the safety valve is all the way open. It sounds redundant but do it exactly and you'll be good. Follow this procedure: -Attached the hose to the tank. -Turn the tank valve on and wait 3 seconds -Turn the tank valve off and wait 3 seconds(you'll hear a click sometimes inside the tank) -Turn the tank valve on for the last time and it should be ready with the internal tank valve fully off.

[@mikec3281]

@@sixtyfiveford Thank you. If the tank has ice on the bottom could that be a problem? The tank is only half full. Is the gas possibly turning to liquid and not producing enough pressure.

[@sixtyfiveford]

@@mikec3281 Propane freezing in a tank can be a huge problem. This generally only happens in extreme cold below 10-15F or higher temps if the heater draws a ton of propane(100,000BTU or more). Leaving the propane tank indoors helps this from happening, along with larger bottles of propane. For reference, I have a propane hot water/steam pressure washer I use in the summer. It pulls 400000+ BTU and will freeze a standard BBQ propane tank right up in 15-20minutes if I don't set it into a bucket of hot water. Moonshine guys used to blow themselves up because they had to light fires under the propane tanks to keep them from freezing.

[@domperrion-4262]

Mine worked great 1 second, then I ran outta propane. Went right away and got a new tank, came back and plugged in the new one and it barely blows. Went and got another fresh tank. Same thing. Could you help? Everything seems fine, but only seems to be blowing at 25%..

[@sixtyfiveford]

Safety valve in the tank is slowing the propane flow. You need to follow a few steps when you put on a new tank. -Connect tank -Turn tank valve on and wait 3+sec -Turn tank back off and wait 3+ sec You may hear a light click inside the tank; this is the OPD safety valve disengaging. -Finally turn tank valve on and you're ready to use it.

[@slick0101]

I went to use my heater yesterday and it started sounding weird. I turned the gas off and unplugged it but the flame kept going and it was shooting out at least a foot past the heater. I went to restart it and it sounds like way to much propane coming out. What could be the problem?

[@sixtyfiveford]

Regulator is bad. This is in the hose, generally at the tank connection.

[@slick0101]

@@sixtyfiveford thanks. I just unhooked it from the tank and there was a lot of pressure in the hose. It hissed a good minute after it was unhooked from the propane tank.

[@firefox00-7]

Wonderful video mate. The thing is sourcing parts for these things. I have a jetaire and can't find where to buy parts for it

[@sixtyfiveford]

Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful.

[@MaumelleBulldogsRedditt]

Should the spark plug continue sparking after it is lit and stays lit?

[@sixtyfiveford]

Yes, it sparks the entire time.

[@MaumelleBulldogsRedditt]

@@sixtyfiveford thank you!

[@joshuadevall4182]

I changed mine with a similar but not exactly the same one. When I short out the two leads, it will stay on. As soon as I remove the jumper it dies

[@markradmall6556]

Great video. Very helpful to troubleshoot and diagnose the problem with my heater. The only thing I found wrong was that the thermocouple you use in the video to fix yours is different from the thermocouple you linked to on Amazon. I had to send it back because it was the wrong one for my heater. What is the exact product number on the one in the video? That's the one I still need.

[@sixtyfiveford]

The linked one should have fit, just an inch longer overall. The exact part for my All Pro is a 6654NR that is 12.5" long . I used a universal one in the video.

[@CarGuyzDallas]

we have a unit that is only about 2 years old but makes a very loud humming noise when turned on , very loud...the noise quites if you restrict the air flow into the chamber, any ideas? thank you

[@sixtyfiveford]

Are you sure the fan blades aren't rubbing the housing?

[@trentonrobinson6093]

I have replaced my thermocouple and my heater still wont stay light. Any idea on why?

[@sixtyfiveford]

Two other things I have found: Some heaters have an over temp switch that can go bad. The other is the main relay(generally has a dozen wires going to it with a clear cover) will get dirty contacts.

[@robertwawrzon1080]

Well made clip and clear understanding. Thanks

[@bill7774]

Hello, I just got one of these used. When its off and I plug it in the blower and igniter automatically start. The switch wont turn to on unless I push it in so I know its in the off position. Any suggestions? I can get it to start but the igniter continues to fire the whole time. I assume its not supposed to do that?

[@sixtyfiveford]

+William G It "is" supposed to fire constantly. You'll here a sparking/clicking noise the entire time it's on. Sounds like it's working like it was designed to.

[@billygraves8502]

+sixtyfiveford Thanks. I wasn't sure. I thought it might be fine after I took it apart and realized the swith was just a valve to turn the gas on and off.

[@xlargest]

I have a REM55PV (Remington Torpedo Heater) and I changed the thermocouple after seeing your video. Still not working... It came on for a little while (twice) but other than that when I push the plunger in and hold it for awhile it releases and doesnt stay lit. My tank is pretty full. Do you think it could be the magnet? What is that piece called? I cant find it in the parts breakdown to order.

[@sixtyfiveford]

It is either your Relay or High Limit Switch(at 5:00 in the video) then. The High limit(over heat) temperature switch can be bypassed by simply disconnecting the 2 spade wires and connecting them together and testing. If the heater runs and works normal you can replace the switch, if not we need to look the the Relay Box. Take your relay out; little box with a bunch of wires going into it with generally a clear cover. You need to check the contact points on the relay are making a good connection. Your relay will look different from the one in this video, but the idea of cleaning is identical kzbin.info/www/bejne/q5bVqal_d7R3hac

[@jdisdetermined]

Mine was working great, until we used a jumpbox inverter to run it for 10 minutes or so. It ran great and sounded normal, but after turning it off, the next time I tried to run it, nothing, won't ignite. I can manually light it by holding in the igniter and using a lighter. It stays lit and runs, but with a very weak flame, like it's turned way down but it isn't. Any ideas? We've run others on inverters before with no problems, but that's the only thing we did differently.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Sounds more like a propane delivery problem. Do you hear it sparking? You could just have too low of flow. Check your tank connection first.

[@jdisdetermined]

@@sixtyfiveford tried 3 different tanks, one brand new and full. Tried the tank and line from my other one that works, no change. The spark plug has spark, but very very faint and no sound. Last time I had to clean out all the jets to get the burner going strong again, but they're relatively clean still and not plugged.

[@sixtyfiveford]

@@jdisdetermined I would suspect the regulator. Try tapping it lightly with something.

[@jdisdetermined]

@@sixtyfiveford Okay, I'll give it a try in the morning. Thanks!

[@Crimsonpappy]

Will the fan run without propane?

[@jdisdetermined]

Yep, most of them don't even have an on/off switch. Fan runs as soon as it's plugged in.

[@kakytoo69]

My heater throws about 6" yellow flames. They don't make it out of the tube but still I feel that's odd Is that normal for a 30,000-60,000 propane heater? My last torpedo had blue flames and so does yours. I guess I should try not opening the valve all the way.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Generally a yellow flame is too much fuel to oxygen. Really can't change the rate of oxygen(air from the fan) coming in, so we just need to dial back the propane. This is the job of the regulator attached to the end of the hose and should be a fixed regulator. More than likely it is defective.

[@kakytoo69]

sixtyfiveford I had a feeling it was the regulator. I knew there was a reason it was on sale for $70

[@sixtyfiveford]

kakytoo69 You may be able to close the valve on the tank just right to make it run properly.

[@TheSoakinginit]

Does the spark plug suppose to stay going once it fires up?On mine it does.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Yes, it sparks the entire time it's running.

[@davidmanishewitz]

I have propane reddy heater in my garage I can only let it run for 5-10 minutes each time, after that I have to shut it down my eyes start burning ,is it just lack of fresh air (oxygen), or something wrong with the heater ?the garage is well insulated and sealed,is it possible that the heater could use up all the oxygen in 20by24' garage in 10 minutes?

[@sixtyfiveford]

You should be able to run a 50-80k btu heater in that size of garage for hours. Some people are more irritated by the burning propane that others. I know I prefer a diesel/kerosene heater over propane.

[@thomasbailey4814]

I have a 60 k BTU pro-temp heater and a 60k BTU master heater. The flame on the master is by far greater than the flame on the pro-temp. If I run the pro Temp for 15 minutes in my garage my eyes start to burn. But I can run the master in the garage for 8 hours with no problems. I swapped the regulator off of the master and put it on the pro Temp and there was no change in the flame. The master heater can heat up my 24 x 24 garage in about 10 to 15 minutes, then I put it on low. But even if I run the pro-temp heater on high I still have a chill in the garage the entire time

[@sixtyfiveford]

You're getting a RICH mixture of propane to air in the burn. You need less propane and about the only way this is accomplished is with the jet/nozzle. The one burning your eyes is more than likely jetted for lower altitude(larger jet) which puts too much propane fuel through. At higher altitudes with less oxygen the jet is smaller to make a more complete efficient burn.

[@jcdsmith7530]

Where is the best place to buy parts

[@sixtyfiveford]

@@jcdsmith7530 Unfortunately there is no one place that is great. Generally I target eBay or Amazon just because they have reasonable shipping. You can generally find the parts on third party websites, but then they want $15 to $20 to ship it to you. They also seem to only specialize in certain brands on these websites. There's probably 30 different brands. Generally I just Google my model number. From there sometimes I can find schematics with part numbers. Then I just Google the part number I need.

[@johnbrake1571]

Mine won't light at all any idea what that would be it's the same 1 you have

[@sixtyfiveford]

Pilot won't light? No gas flow or no spark.

[@johnbrake1571]

@@sixtyfiveford no spark

[@disgruntledmarmotcustomsan1530]

Awesome man that's good info. I think the 2 spade clips on the thermal couple run to the relay and kinda redundantly stop operation if they don't get a signal. Anyway I have that exact heater I've been trying to figure out and your video was helpful thanks.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.

[@mikemosley77]

The 2 terminals that connect to the relay "stops operation" to what though? If thermocouple is bad, it's not producing voltage...and no voltage is produced by manually holding plunger either...so something else would not be functioning either if the two terminals were feeding voltage to some other stop operation. I suspect it goes the other direction as a fail safe and is fed TO the thermocouple FROM the relay instead. Such as when the high limit switch is tripped. Perhaps it grounds out the voltage in the thermocouple so that the voltage will release the plunger? I came to this video looking for an answer to this very same subject. I've got a thermocouple on hand I can use today until the one I have to order comes in....but the one I have is not one with the 2 terminals. I'm trying to do a little work around temporarily.... just need to find a little more info.

[@otisrhw]

I have a propane torpedo I bought last year and never used now I use it this year and it shuts down after 5-10 min any idea

[@sixtyfiveford]

If it is extremely cold the tank or the regulator could be freezing up. Some models have an over temp safety switch that could be triggering as well if your blocking the output.

[@nickbailey202]

Holy hell, that was it, thank you! You just save me a hundred bucks.

[@tedtolentino4955]

thanks for the tutorial on repairing a torpedo heater. Great instructional video!

[@2LateIWon]

Ive got a 150,000 btu heater and its way to much for my little 2 car garage great heaters though. It burns through that propane though LOL Great Vid buddy

[@sixtyfiveford]

Yeah the propane heaters seam to eat a lot. I originally used this propane one and now it's just a backup. I use a Kerosene/Diesel heater solely now (with diesel). Propane= 91,200 BTU per gallon Diesel=138,800 BTU per gallon Kerosene=135,000 BTU per gallon My current cost 2014 Propane=$3.00 gallon= $3.28 per 100,000 BTU of Heat Diesel(dyed)=3.15 gallon =$2.26 per 100,000 BTU of Heat Kerosene=9.60 gallon= $7.10 per 100,000 BTU of Heat

[@2LateIWon]

Wow that adds up

[@tullgutten]

As a first time ever touching one gas heater Noob. I wish you started the video demanding us to check that the regulator on the bottle is a high pressure one 😅 I've got one from a friend with regulator that wasn't working, and trying to fix it i opened every valve and pipe to blow out dust and clean out nozzle. Still no burn, just light a lighter an put into the gas nozzle from the bottom and there is flame but very weak. That's when I checked the regulator (0.032bar) and pressure demanding on burner (1.500 bar)

[@danielbouffard4459]

Hey would you be able to answer few of my questions please regarding the heater.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Sure.

[@ProfessionalDad]

I’ve got one that constantly sparks. Is that normal?

[@sixtyfiveford]

They spark the entire time they're running.

[@ramvanbobby3889]

i have a 10x30 garage what size do recommend I should get a small or bigger one

[@sixtyfiveford]

My garage is 20x20, so the same size. I find a 50,000btu ample to bring up the from freezing to 60ish degrees in 20-30 minutes which is generally when I tear the coat off. This is with a high 16ft peaked ceiling and no ceiling insulation but full wall and garage door insulation.

[@andyharos4323]

Excellent! Explained everything that might go wrong. Identified my issue and I was able to repair mine myself. Thank you. I can't imagine the goof that gave you a single thumbs down... Duh...

[@sixtyfiveford]

+Andy Haros Hey Thanks. I'm glad the video helped.... Can't make everyone happy.

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

Great fix man .. The heater buddy has a special thermal couple as well ..

[@sixtyfiveford]

ShawnMrFixit Lee Thanks Shawn.

[@goriverman]

Thanks i'm having trouble with my heater and you just fixed it for me. You always have such great information and great tips. Merry Christmas to you and your family

[@sixtyfiveford]

goriverman Thank You. Merry Christmas to you and yours as well.

[@dougripley8432]

trying to figure out why I only have very low heat in my dynaglo pro propane heater

[@sixtyfiveford]

Most common cause is low propane flow due to a failing regulator.

[@asoberaddict]

My 170T ignition panel's indicator lights do not come on although the on/off switch is lit. Therefore, the unit will not come on. I cannot find that troubleshooting anywhere. Any ideas?

[@sixtyfiveford]

Most machines have a reset button.

[@ALpumpman1]

Where did you get the new thermocouple?

[@sixtyfiveford]

ALpumpman1 Anywhere online. Ebay is probably your best bet after you Google your machine to find your thermocouple part number.

[@Romald123456]

Can these be controlled by thermostat. If anyone could do it you could!

[@sixtyfiveford]

You could easily just use a thermostat-controlled plug. This would shut it off once it got up to temperature. Restarting would be an issue because you have to manually depress the ignition button

[@AnalogX64]

How are these different as far as safety and emission compared someone running a propane BBQ inside a garage. I've heard people dying trying to keep warm running a propane BBQ inside their garage.

[@sixtyfiveford]

AnalogX64 I have a pretty well sealed and insulated garage and made it a point a few years ago to put the Carbon Monoxide detector in there. I can run the heater for 8 hours and it will never set off the detector. But if I start a small engine it goes off in 60 seconds. I feel very safe running these heaters in an enclosed shop.