Size matters - Large diameter turning, facing, and boring on the mini lathe

This video is how to negotiate large diameter material and perform common cutting actions on the MINI LATHE. (MUCH) More information below!
Please like and subscribe if this was helpful!
Stuff from this video:
Boring Bar: amzn.to/2pmy0b1
3D Printer: amzn.to/2oVC2Ka
Printer Filament: amzn.to/2pTN8jO
Lathe: amzn.to/2nVBrEc
Stuff on the lathe:
Quick Change Tool Holder: amzn.to/2oZtFee
Tailstock Drill Chuck: amzn.to/2pmE0jX
Lathe tools:
Carbide Tools: amzn.to/2oRZWax
Parting Tool: amzn.to/2nVCeW1
Center Bits: amzn.to/2oRRV5n
Drill Bits: amzn.to/2oz9W76
Boring Bar: amzn.to/2pmy0b1
Other stuff:
Cutting oil: amzn.to/2ofkPaY
Mini Lathe troubleshooting guide: littlemachineshop.com/referenc...
Controller board wiring configuration: imgur.com/KIEzu92
The real version of the motor controller: amzn.to/2orw43F
Datasheet for the KBIC-120: www.galco.com/buy/KB-Electron...
Super nice guy who repairs the controller boards: olduhfguy.com/
Music:
www.bensound.com/royalty-free-...
www.bensound.com/royalty-free-...

[@poruatokin]

There are many comments here on bad practises, but many of them are also recommending bad practises. The one I hate hearing and seeing the most is recommendations to wear gloves. NO, NO, NO!! No gloves, jewelry, watches sleeves. Nothing that can grab and pull your hand into the machine. Much better to get a scratch from swarf rather than lose a finger. As for work holding, since you were boring out the center, the simplest method would have been to make an expanding arbor. Simple to make and re-usable for other projects. Ditto everyone else on finding the work piece center, it takes seconds and is far more accurate to do it the right way. Never drill without clamping, even small diameter drills can grab the work and whip it out of your hand. When you started on the hole saw, I was cringing. Use an old paint brush to wipe away swarf. Get yourself a magnetic base stand for your dial indicator. Buy or grind yourself a set of lathe tools for greater flexibility. The toolpost is fine for aluminium.... only. Forget about turning steel with it and probably brass as well. If you plan to machine steel at that diameter, the the lathe probably doesn't have enough torque anyway. I am not going to say buy a bigger lathe, because we all have our space and budget limitations, you just need to be aware of the limitations of the tools you have.

[@MaturePatriot]

poruatokin - I agree. Worked in the nuclear industry for 27 years. I once saw an individual start a rotating shaft, while another worker was holding it while wearing rubber gloves. I hope I never again see five fingers bent in that many different directions. A class mate almost lost a finger when his class ring got caught on a chuck. Watch the following video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aXbHgqRrnqZ6j9U - That's how fast you can get hurt!

[@MrRatkilr]

Gloves are not a good idea on a lathe. But if you really think you do have to wear them use a cotten and not leather glove. I worked on oil rig with rotating drill stem. We wore cotten gloves. You were not allowed to wear leather ones. Leather is too strong and if it snags you are farked. Will wrap you around and tear stuff off. With cotten or fabric at least there is a chance it will just rip and tear. My two cents.

[@gredangeo]

I always wear gloves. I have cut myself more times from sharp edges and needing bandaids later, than I count. It's not worth taking them off. More of a hassle without gloves.

[@tylerbarton658]

My dad lost the tip of his ring finger due to a glove got caught in a drill press grabbed and pulled.

[@adrianharrison5208]

@@gredangeo there is someone that has a channel on KZbin that had his hand all smashed up this year on his lathe because he was wearing a glove.. lathes a gloves asre a big no no.. you could lose those fingers all together!

[@intjonmiller]

The simplest solution for outside turning on a diameter that pushes the limits of your lathe is a boring bar, mounted backward in the tool holder, with the tool post rotated 180° from the usual orientation. That is, if you have a moderately long boring bar.

[@TimNummy]

That's a really great solution! Thanks for the comment :)

[@Tome4kkkk]

Any links? I can't picture this :)

[@daduck748]

Although there is a lot of room for criticism, but the fact that you were able to "machine something" that large on a mini-lathe is very commendable. This is good video for those garage-shop engineers to see that "it can be done". I graduated from my home garage to an industrial shop with bigger toys, but I remember the days with wanting or needing to do big things with small toys. Good job.

[@georgecurtis6463]

A thing I always watch for when someone is using a drill press is table flex. Yours flexed a lot. You need to use an old scissors jack to support the table so it remains true to the drill or whatever you are using. It's what I do if using any sort of force.

[@JohnDoe-ls2ww]

This is a great idea. Definitely need to pick a couple up next time I hit the wrecking yard. A bottle jack would work too I think depending on height restrictions.

[@leoaslanian9666]

Im liking your videos, a good engineer always evaluates their work at the end of each job thats how we learn and move on. Avoid these armchair engineer’s negative comments. Keep bringing the videos in. They are quality!

[@Jonb782010]

Hi mate just wanted to say " thanks so much for your! time & efforts with all your videos!!! " It's awesome helping us without a clue 😂 & learning - after watching how well you re-built your lathe with all the problems you had gave me confidence to get one ( especially with the hit n miss of what you might receive?) , I was saving for a Siege mill lathe combo but it's way too small & last night looking on local ads - finally found one & was the same one you have so I bought this one instead - now I'm just watching all your videos again from strip down through 👍 thanks again & please keep up the great work & projects you do!! It helps soo much!!

[@blaneyblades4810]

7:10. I'm amazed at how concentric that turned out given the method you used. Well done.

[@MakinSumthinFromNuthin]

Nice workaround on a small lathe like that 👍🏼

[@haydenc2742]

Yes!!! More 3D printing please!

[@danedewaard8215]

It is said that "There are many ways to skin a cat" and I thoroughly enjoyed watching your way!

[@TimNummy]

Thanks so much!

[@MrRatkilr]

More than one way to get it done.

[@nickking8317]

just a friendly tip use a vice and never try and remove swarf with your hands and when drilling or machining on the lathe and make sure its stopped before you do

[@chrismechanic2000]

you used a 3d printer to find the centre of round stock 0.0, overkill i love it hahaha.

[@tjejojyj]

When I saw this I couldn't figure out what was going on until the very last; I thought there was going to be some complex geometry (as opposed to the simply geometry that will give the centre), with all those material-saving circle cut outs. What I can't understand is the use of a Sharpie for the mark? That splodge of ink is huge. Surely if a scribe (or substitute) isn't handy, at least a 0.5mm pencil?

[@ianboyd9723]

Everyone else used an engineers square with the V attachment, to find the centre of any round object, no matter what the diameter.

[@RS-er7ye]

Yes this tool in aliexpress costs less than a dollar and can be used easily for 5 inch dia work - it is very handy and accurate for marking center point for proper round workpiece - look for Plastic Center Finder Centre Measuring Round Cylinder Milling Machine Tool

[@kenibnanak5554]

I appreciate this video. I have a very similar sized disk of S7 I was not able to figure out how to use my Sieg lathe to work, but your idea of using a bolt in a center hole as the chuck mount point, that is a good way around the size limitation of a 3" or 4" chuck.

[@WireWeHere]

6:02 A coupling nut turned flat with a boss to countersink into the slug of aluminum can help with getting the hole closer to true. The setup with multiple nuts is usually going to be a little off especially when the bolt isn't tightened to pull the work against the chuck.

[@lordgarak]

I would strongly suggest investing in a better quick change tool post. Those little aluminium ones are like rubble bands compared to a steel one. Also HSS tooling works much better on the mini-lathe. Its not all that difficult to grind your own cutters. You can grind a right handed boring bar that will give the lathe a little more reach on large diameters. Even a poorly ground HSS cutter can work better than carbide. I've made all the same mistakes wasting money on the aluminium tool post and carbide tools. The RPM looked a bit high for something this large but it hard to tell on video. I usually will turn the speed all the way down before turning on the lathe and then big the speed up slowly. I've used the faceplate and drilled a bolt pattern to turn HDPE disk that just clear the ways on my mini lathe. That is where I was expecting you to go when it didn't fit the chuck. The bolt arbor is just a bit sketchy. Bolts can shear off pretty easily, are not very straight or even concentric. Same with the nuts. They are rarely dead nut on. Get yourself a set of transfer punches. They are pretty inexpensive at HF. Center punching on a sharpie mark is hardly accurate.

[@TimNummy]

Thanks! Other's have mentioned the weaknesses of the carbide tools and my aluminum tool post as well. I went with the aluminum tool post because of the cost (less than $40 with the holders) to see if it was something I'd like and eventually want a higher quality version of and also because the total cost of this lathe was so cheap that if I spent so much money on the small convenience accessories I could have just put it together and bought a higher quality lathe to begin with. I also found a review of someone else who has been using it on a mini lathe and he paid nearly $100 for it and was happy enough with it. I figured if he was happy for $100, I'd be thrilled for $40. For the carbide tools, this is probably lack of experience but they seem to have been working well for me - I went with them again because of the cost but also because they came in a defined, pre-angled set where as it's much harder to find pre-ground HSS tools unless they are used on eBay, which when starting and not knowing what I'm getting, makes it difficult. The carbide tools also seemed like the path of least resistance to being able to get the lathe and start using it without having to also buy everything needed to grind the HSS tools, learn how to do it, and then still not know if they were correctly working. This is very much a learning experience for me and I'm also finding that the fastest way to figure out what you're doing wrong is to post a video of what you're doing on the internet. I appreciate you watching and appreciate the suggestions.

[@jijzer3284]

TimNummy mate please watch keith fenner or a abom they have good tips and tricks

[@rogerhalcrow2358]

I watched with horror as you were holding the disc while drilling with a hole saw I nearly lost a finger doing that I now clamp every time.Good video though Roger

[@christurnblom4825]

lol yep. Those of us who were self taught on the drill press usually get into that habit until we drill something big enough to give us a scare. My boss, who knows far less about machining than I, had to learn the hard way, that you don't wear thick gloves either. LATEX ONLY. Fortunately, his industrial-sized drill press has a stretched belt so it slipped before he broke his arm in three or four places.

[@meusana3681]

Agreed. My drill bits are as sharp as I can make them and I clamp everything. When I started out metalworking I drilled 12mm hole in a piece of 5mm flat bar, I omitted to deburr the part and started drilling. Halfway through the bit dug in and started to fling the sharp flat bar around. I had several deep lacerations in my left hand including a severed vein. Safe to say I got a huge lecture afterwards, and lost a good enough portion of my blood to become light headed. Won't make that mistake again, especially since I started working with radial arms. A 10 hp machine will take your arm, not just your finger.

[@gheumann]

I was OK when he hand held it for the center drill. But when he did with the hole saw? UUgghhhhh.

[@johnstewart8849]

Curious: which do you find more useful, the ADDITIVE process of 3-D printing, or the subtractive process of lathing?

[@mike9500]

there are many ways you can use to find the center. one was to draw a line across from 8-10 different angles from edge to edge and the intersection in the middle is the center. i have used that for years and never had an issue. just something to help ya in the future for faster results is all. but good work!

[@dave-in-nj9393]

the part was not flat when drilled so the first hole was not parallel to the OD. loosen the QC tool post and rotate it 90 degrees. take your cutter and it will be closer to you so you can face off the part and have the tool post over the dovetails for more strength. you could just angle the QC post and use your cutter without touching the compound. use your boring bar on the far side of the part to do the OD. very light cuts due to the high FPM and large diameter. many fun things about machining and lots of ways to get the job done. the only wrong way is when you get hurt.

[@Venturestarx]

Now this was a great video.

[@jlawlar]

great video

[@ddistrbd1]

It's always good to see how others manipulate their mini lathe to make it work, I learned a couple of tricks from watching this video.thank you for making it .

[@TimNummy]

Thanks for watching and appreciating it :)

[@DSCKy]

You can use a boring bar for turning and it will give you additional reach for the large diameter.

[@keyblade2121]

i actually just bought one of these china lathes to make bushings and other spacers for our drift cars. Your videos have helped a ton! I cant wait for mine to come in, and start working with it. The way the motor is mounted still scares me though... haha. good videos man, keep uploading!

[@TimNummy]

Nice! Nylon or polyurethane? Either way I did a test piece on some PVC pipe in the unboxing video and it worked wonderfully on it. Might check if out if you haven't seen it. (kzbin.info/www/bejne/j4XJfZZvZ5hrrKM&t) Definitely go through the whole thing and make sure that everything that shouldn't move is tight and everything that should move is greased - some parts were dry on mine and I just found some bolts that were either barely finger tight or missing! I'm putting together a video now that is completely stripping it down and putting it back together, which hopefully will be done pretty soon so keep an eye out for that. Thanks for watching!

[@keyblade2121]

TimNummy Were gong to be using aluminum to make some subframe bushings, and rear differential spacers. And possibly delrin or poly for motor mounts, and shifter bushings. And yea! I saw the PVC being turned down. How well did it work with harder steel stuff?

[@TimNummy]

That's awesome... at first I was using mild steel which is hard to turn as it tends to tear and leave a rough finish but after messing around with it a bit, I was able to get very acceptable finishes. I've ready that some of the harder steels actually machine much nicer and I have a project coming up where I'll be turning a pretty significant piece of 4130 Chromoly - this will be a great test for both the turning ability of this lathe with harder steel as well as how much, if any, taper there ends up being across the length of the lathe. The possible taper aside, the biggest reason why this lathe would struggle is just in the torque needed to take deep cuts.

[@evugar]

Very nice job! Liked and subscribed.

[@TimNummy]

Thanks so much!

[@analyst3412]

Nd really u r excellent an bcoz u use every type of engineering fundamentals like cad , 3d drawing etc....👍👍

[@finecutpost]

Look you came up with a usable solution to get what you wanted. Excellent, this is why we own these amazingly useful machines. There are probably half a dozen other ways as well and we learn even if we fail. Just one thing, the music really doesn't help, it's just really annoying. Natural sound is so much better. Thanks for sharing your project.

[@b2dmastersniper]

You realize you will be more accurate and 100x faster just using a ruler and scribe to find center right?

[@TimNummy]

Yeah sure, but then I wouldn't have a segue to 3d printing videos. Besides, the longest part was waiting for it to print which gave me time to do other things - plus now that I have the tool, it will be faster then a ruler and scribe next time ;)

[@tallbrian100]

Centering head for your combination square www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=FOW72-386-006&source=froogle&kw=FOW72-386-006&gclid=COmi6PbztNQCFQOewAodzJwL_A

[@learningthehardway6186]

Brian Kiehnau you beat me to it lol. I was about to comment that there is a specific head for a square for the EXACT purpose he needs.

[@TimNummy]

I know - I was just looking for an excuse to use the 3d printer

[@MrRatkilr]

@@tallbrian100 Thats what I use... works for any diameter.

[@WCGwkf]

6:15 lol dude you really need a noga indicator base. really liking your videos I've been wanting to get a lathe like this to play with.

[@TimNummy]

I'd love that! Feel free to send me one :) www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/2WFTLSXEPS8WH

[@rayfalcone6897]

Hello Tim, Another nice video .thanks Tim

[@TimNummy]

Thank you!

[@Tome4kkkk]

2:40 1. Oil makes zero sense in that scenario. 2. My initial requirement for my first mini lathe is to be able to rework drill presses with it. You've just reminded me why :) This amount of wobble shouldn't be present even on $120 Chinese drill presses. There's something seriously wrong with the quill or the taper.

[@graabeinskjegg4578]

After reading the comments I can with a great deal of confidence say that people suck.. I love your videos! Keep 'em coming! :D

[@TimNummy]

Thanks so much!

[@yuregskv]

When bolting the workpiece in this manner, consider using reverse jaws, at least for facing cuts. They give you much more support from the back face of the workpiece. They do grip a smaller portion of nuts, that's unfortunate, right. But the later issue could be overcome somewhat by using a long nut or a custom threaded arbor

[@jdh30]

More 3D printing projects, please!

[@jabernathy2595]

I recently bought the same Lathe as you have. I also had a lot of trouble...straight outta the crate!! I have learned a lot about my machine from watching your videos, so thank you for sharing. I did notice in this video that when you were facing the part that there seem to be ridges in the finish? I have the same problem with my Lathe...very poor ridged finishes. I upgraded to all metal gears and tapered roller bearings and still have the same results.

[@TimNummy]

Make sure that everything on the carriage is tight... if all that is good, maybe make or buy a carriage lock as I think that was a majority of the cause of the ridges.

[@Jeremy-iv9bc]

Have you ever used a superglue arbor? I think that would work good as long as you had 1 side on your blank that was reasonably flat.

[@woodystreeservices]

This is all very well if you can put a centre hole in the piece

[@FuturefabOrgUk]

Your lighting's always really good - something I struggle with on my videos - what do you use?

[@TimNummy]

I just have a bunch of fluorescent shop lights over head and then one of those desk mount lighted magnifying glass things for when I need extra light on a specific area

[@TheTahuds]

I love 3d printing, mainly because I have a printer and it's like machining w/ training wheels.

[@Mephitus_LePew]

As another alternative, you can use a secondary plate in the lathe with the work piece held with superglue. They can later be separated with a bit of heat from a blowtorch.

[@TimNummy]

Thanks! That's not a bad idea either.

[@trevorsmales9303]

That's great when using plate material, personally I wouldn't attempt with such a thick piece as in this video. each to their own though.

[@lustatus]

I learned a lot of concept with this video; my intention is to make a 12" dia. flywheel but i'm not sure what size of lathe should I buy; any suggestion are welcome. Thnks bro

[@mekashawdessalegne1320]

The only video that solve my problems

[@123bugness]

Many comments, old(er) video, yes I looked through them but didn't see anything to do with my observation(s). I noticed when you clamped the part to turn, on your 3-jaw chuck, that your part wasn't flush with the steps in the jaws. That might have been where you were seeing some of the wobble, not necessarily because the bolt wasn't centered . Yes, the aluminum tool posts are quite crap and disposable. Also, when indicating or measuring, put the base of the indicator on the machine, not the bench. When you pulled towards you to rotate the chuck, the whole machine flexed/rocked toward you and the indicator. All that being said, I like your videos and can see you're learning. I've enjoyed seeing the progression and the improvements you've made to your lathe. While I , or others, would have done things differently, you are making headway and I think you've got solid ideas. No, I don't have any videos doing what you're doing, but please don't think I'm an keyboard warrior, lol.

[@TimNummy]

Hey! Thanks so much for that comment :) I really appreciate the level of detail... You're right about the space when putting it on the chuck but I was trying to get it to wobble less and I don't think the rough cut face was exactly true, so it was actually better with a little bit of space. As for the putting the indicator on the machine, that's a really good point - I went through the trouble of making sure the indicator was very secure but completely overlooked the machine moving around. Thanks again for watching and enjoying and taking the time to comment!

[@trevorsmales9303]

It's good to see constructive criticism and how well it's taken rather than some of the ass-hats on here that feel it's ok to slag someone off.

[@canuckfixit7722]

I have done something like this before I got one of these mini lathes. Measuring and drilling a centre hole "statically" on a drill press just doesn't cut it (pun intended). The off-centre condition gets worse with each larger hole you drill. You can't beat using a lathe with a tail stock and centering bit.

[@mathman274]

You don't really need to make a template. If you draw two right angled triangles on a circle, with the 90 degree angle (and the other angles too) on the 'edge' (in 2 different locations), then the center is where the hypothenuses intersect. (you can use something like this for that: www.hiclipart.com/free-transparent-background-png-clipart-pjrhp )

[@OktoPutsch]

A fantastic occasion missed to use the tailstock in expect to keep your part centered after boring it ... ! Next time maybe

[@krasenangelov3884]

Hi in the pacage of your minilathe shuld be a disk with the diameter of your chuck and a thickness arround 10mm. with a few holes drilled in it. it is called a FACE CHUCK or DISK CHUCK and it is used fore mountng big details on the mihi lathe.

[@russnixon6020]

Use WD-40 as a cutting fluid for aluminum. Also, would it ever occur to you to actually clamp the work piece on the drill press table? You know, for safety...

[@tobyw9573]

I would have checked to see which side was the most square with the sides. If neither face was square, then shim one side till the sides are vertical, then bore the center hole and mount it on a mandrel. But how will you do it is the interesting question.

[@sledgehammer7998]

How is that quick change tool holder working with the boring bar? Does the bar move when you put pressure on the inside of the hole? My quick change tool holders are all loose and not properly made for the post that it was sold with. When I use the boring bar its not solid and moves from any pressure thats applied when boring a hole. Let me know how that jinwen is working for you, maybe I can get one of those instead.

[@JustInTime0525]

Definitely interested in more 3D printing content! So the lathe can't really mount a 7" part without modifying the part beforehand?

[@TimNummy]

Awesome! I'll try to start doing more :) And nope - actually 7 inches is the maximum size of which the part would be resting on the ways and the center point be lined up with the center point on the chuck.... so probably the actual max size is more like 6 usable inches. But this lathe is so light that unless it was hollow or plastic or very short (like the piece I was working with), it would probably be scary to turn anyway. As a side note, this lathe came with a 4 inch chuck... so even though the work area is 7"x14", the 4 inch chuck can only hold a 4 in diameter piece. I could (as many people seem to do) get a 5 inch chuck which would have let me mount this piece directly. Hope all that makes sense and thanks for watching!

[@fredschmidt3148]

I thought you did great at utilizing your lathe's limits. One suggestion is save that Magic oil for other projects and use an "acid brush", super cheap small metal handled brush, with kerosene on aluminum at your highest rpm and apply it on the hole saw and drill bit. For the boring tool, apply on the part. Kerosene is about 50X cheaper and smells pretty good. Keep making vids, you have that skill in hand !

[@johndobbie528]

I find a right angle ground tool will reach the outside of larger diameters.

[@TheMoody876]

Just ran into the same issue with my atlas 10in lathe 8in stock in a 6in chuck

[@impactodelsurenterprise2440]

I find that turning really large diameter workpiece (bigger than chuck) really hogs down the motor to full amps. Does that happen for you and why?

[@brukernavnfettsjit]

Looks to me like you mounted it croocked? At 10:20 you can see the part contact the face of the chuck tooth in the back, but two teeth are showing in the front? Hope you understand what I mean. :) Love the videos by the way, nice to see someone else getting by with out thousands of dollars machine shop.

[@TimNummy]

Thanks so much! I'm glad you enjoy them :) That was semi-intentional in that I was trying to get rid of as much wobble as possible and it turns out having the back of the part flat against the chuck wasn't the point of least wobble. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aHqroKB3Z7mWgJY

[@fatonkosova6212]

I was afraid my mind is playing tricks on me, I was surprised nobody else noticed and/or commented about this, I was relaxed seeing your comment.

[@jamesdenier231]

When you flipped and re-chucked the part, it wasn't sitting flush with the jaws. That's why you had so much run-out when you went to face the second side and turn to diameter.

[@warrenmaker798]

Hence the old saying " Buy the biggest lathe you can't afford" I saved up for an extra 6 months so I could get the next size up. Luckily they had a sale on and the day I went to buy it I was able to buy 2 sizes bigger for the same price as 1 size bigger. I now have a 14" swing machine instead of a 10" and use it to the max reg.

[@BedsitBob]

There's an awful lot of flex, in the table of that drill press.

[@pauls5745]

this is actually comical how he flimflams his way thru it. of course we'd might take off the chuck and clamp the piece to the backplate or use a drawbar(I've done that too) but this goes to show you just about anything can be done if you can think of it hahaha

[@samp1394]

I am still undecided if I want to buy one of these lathes or go with a more expensive one ? Is the 7x14 Grizzly any better ?

[@TimNummy]

I've never been around the Grizzly but I imagine it has at least 3 things different than thing one - more expensive, better initial quality, better customer service. That said, I think it is largely the same design (all the flaws and short comings included). Possibly, you'll have a brushless motor vs brushed, maybe a tach already built in, and probably a two speed gear box with a (probably) plastic gear inside.

[@jerremm]

Did you actually just 3D print a disk because you were too lazy to find the center using a ruler?

[@TimNummy]

Lazy isn't usually a word I'd use to describe myself. I thought it would be a neat way to find the center and it had been a while since I 3d printed anything so I scratched that itch while also solving my need to find the center of that disk. I find it amazing how many people are offended by the way I did that. Thanks for watching!

[@gheumann]

@@TimNummy not offended. Just shows a knack for doing it the hard way. But if you have the time and skills to design that part and 3D print it - good on you.

[@MaturePatriot]

In watching your video, I agree with others when they say clamp your work. Good thing it was round. To achieve 1/2mm runout with your current tools was excellent. A chip hook is needed to remove long chips, especially from a running part. A brush can be used to remove the swarf. Better than digging chips out of skin. I initially thought the 3D printed center finder was over kill, but realized what you were doing when you asked about 3D videos. While I may know a little more about lathe operations and have a better lathe, you have KungFu master computer skills compared to this old guy. You look to be a new up and comer. Keep Machining!

[@scadarick]

If you don’t mind can you tell me what modeling software you are using. Keep it up skills grow.

[@TimNummy]

Sure! It's Autodesk Fusion360 and it's free for hobbyists. Thanks for watching!

[@ChrisHarmon1]

You can easily modify the cross by removing some material on the carriage so the cross ballnut doesn't hit the carriage. You then space out the cross ballscrews feed handle mount which should get you 3/4-1" easily on the stock ballscrew. Littlemachineshop.com sells a kit(part #5366) but it's spendy IMO considering you can DIY in about an hour. Be thankful your lathe has a 4" chuck. The older model 7x lathes came with a 3" 3 jaw that will barely hold 2.75". I'm considering picking up a 4 jaw 5" but the price for the chuck is what I paid for the whole lathe used.

[@tjejojyj]

I didn't think that hole saw was going to work. The only way this might have had a chance is to drill a few through holes at the cutting radius to allow the chips to clear. As for the rest I'm both flabbergasted and impressed. Interesting video in more ways than I expected.

[@TimNummy]

Haha thanks I think.

[@tjejojyj]

Your channel is encouraging me to fix the "slop" in the cross slide and carriage on my little lathe so it might be useful; I had given up although it should be difficult. (FYI: here's some photos of mine sites.google.com/site/flexispeedlatheinabox/) In the first video on your lathe I couldn't believe how much everything was moving around. Following the link it didn't seem your lathe was significantly cheaper than the Grizzly 7x14 which looks much, much better. Did you consider getting one of those?

[@dizzolve]

7:45 It kinda looks like your boring bar is moving around on ya ..... unless it's an optical illusion

[@NavinBetamax]

I maybe wrong.......but.... at 10:15 onwards.....I think the job was not pushed up tight against the jaws......that may be why so much runout......just my 2c

[@archerry6457]

Got a lathe but needs plastic printed part to find centre of round stock....

[@tonywaller680]

Hi there is,nt it great to experiment with all the unauthorized lathe operations and live to tell the tail?? I always wonder why we all try drilling on the drill press without clamping our work down,,,me included! To overcome our machining problems is brain food,,,,good luck and be safe.....TW

[@backyardmachinist]

I've found that the stock tool posts on these mini lathes is actually pretty useful. With em you can clamp a tool in the outer position and turn bigger stuff.

[@pauls5745]

there are some uses for them, like tracing a contour from a piece mounted on the tailstock and watching the cut mirror it on your work piece... plus it can hold 4 tools but my QCTP only can do 2. factory toolposts are cheesy tho haha

[@backyardmachinist]

@@pauls5745 That tracing thing is really creative. Thanks for sharing.

[@joewest2560]

I read through quite a few posts and didn't see what I'm about to tell you so if it's been posted I apologize. First of all, my God I was cringing when you were using that drill press without holding that piece with clamps. You only know how bad things get after it happens to you but the reason I am posting I had to stop watching when you put that bolt through your work piece with those nuts on there spinning that piece in the Chuck was asking for it to unthread! You needed left hand threads on that Bolt if you really had to do it that way. It really is amazing that you didn't get hurt doing this with that chuck spinning in the direction to unthread your mandrel

[@ultranon5877]

I commend you for being creative, but I would recommend just having a larger chuck available that you can switch out for bigger stuff.

[@mlindholm]

UltraNon If you get a larger chuck, you need a mounting plate to hold it to the smaller arbor. If you make that instead of buying it, how do you hold the plate? 🤔 I'm actually doing that this weekend, to mount a 4" ER40 collet chuck on the 7x10 (same headstock as Tim's). Considering using a threaded rod through the headstock, like a drawbar, to hold it tight to the chuck face for facing it and cutting the recess. Then I'll drill/bore out the un-recessed portion.

[@griplove]

One of my first thoughts was “lathe 7 inch max swing , Chuck? Not so much”

[@boonebarney5251]

The hole saw would have worked just fine if you clamped the thing down

[@johnalexander2349]

You're ambitious - you'll git gud or fail spectacularly - either way, keep filming. Subscribed.

[@Dodi-nz3fd]

Please address the dealer/distributor of this mini lathe, in *Indonesia* .

[@upward_onward]

How can we do boring at 45 degree angle ?

[@skeletor8250]

Me: I will 3-D print a centering tool. Pithagoras: No, I will use geometry, it is faster.

[@blaneyblades4810]

You do know that to find Center all you have to do is measure your diameter divide by 2 for your radius with your calipers and scribe three arcs from any three points on the circumference of your piece right? That's like sixth grade geometry

[@blaneyblades4810]

Technically speaking you could even do it with two but more accurate with three

[@leeroyholloway4277]

Why the hole saw? You indicated the outer diameter, so it wasn't concentric anyway, Then you turned past the cut.

[@derwissenskiosk8041]

I like it to see what you can do with this small machine I rather buy a bigger lathe that is used and also very cheap but my lathe is also just 1,2meters long and not so heavy. I mean in Germany can you buy very big lathes for around 200-400€/$ but the smaller ones are mor expensiv like the one that I have. Your machine in size is in turn cheaper....

[@TimNummy]

Thanks! I would too in an ideal world.. unfortunately as the size gets smaller the quality also drops and I just don't have the space for a large lathe. Also larger ones are much more expensive here... I wish I could find one for that cheap!

[@lepompier132]

FYI, did you know that you could use a boring bar to turn the ouside diameter ? That alone would have help a lot in your case since you had no options. The other option would be using a face plate and screw the partto the faceplate. You see when you go beyond the limits of specific size lathe, you put yourself at risk of scraping the part or have the part get the hell out of the chuck and hurt you in the process. And also, when you end up risking your safety to turn a part that's outside the envellope of your lathe, it'S a clear sign that you need to upgrade that mini lathe with an other lathe one step bigger. Please Keep that in mind.

[@clermontgagnon8684]

Very clever and sufficiently fast but you do not mention the make of your mini lathe, could you mention it please.Thank you very much.

[@TimNummy]

I have a link to this specific one in the description (amzn.to/2nVBrEc) but it is just one variant of the Seig C2/Harbor Freight/Grizzly/Chinese eBay branded mini lathes.

[@xmrrush8355]

the work peirce wasn't pressed up against the jaws evenly that why you had some wobble

[@TimNummy]

It had wobble when it was pressed up as well - I was trying to adjust the wobble out of it. Good eye though.

[@PacoOtis]

Thanks for the video! Some of the "lathe people" appear just a bit too uptight about things. For most of my projects which is something like a bushing for a lawn mower wheel or for a dryer and such I need to be close, but not extremely close. We'll keep an eye on you! Again, thx.

[@websurfer5150]

Let me make a guess on where this got out of round. When you did the boring cut so it would fit that cut amplified the center error of the bolt. While you did get it mounted in a safer and more secure manner it was further from true than the original centering hole. If you are going to do much like this you may want to get a 5" 4 jaw chuck.

[@TimNummy]

I thought about that but when I had it mounted with the bolt there was very little runout. Also I would think that any out of round at that point would have been roughly corrected with the boring by the first few initial boring cuts being interrupted cuts as it was correcting any off center. But maybe my thinking is flawed. At this point I don't have anything in mind that is this large in diameter after I finish this part but who knows - I'm sure I'll get a 4 jaw chuck at some point. Thanks for the thought!

[@websurfer5150]

Obviously I was not there and my view is just what I see on You Tube. I think you would agree it seemed worse after mounting "properly". Perhaps the stress of the cutting tool caused some flex in the bolt that effected the cut. You know the rule of the School of Hard Knocks. You learn more when things don't go right.

[@TimNummy]

It was definitely worse after mounting it properly, but all things considered it's workable. I need to fix the way the carriage is tightened as that's the source of a lot of flexing and general unwanted movement. I think I have the idea I'm going to do worked out but I just need to get the materials and build it - I'm sure it will be a video. :)

[@tinkernutshop7321]

Bolts never run true and you've made it worse by adding those nuts so that your work was initially mounted to the chuck at an angle. By the way the part wobbled when remounted it's obvious it's not just runout (ie. center moved) but that the axis on which you turn actually changed. What you should of done (besides getting a proper lathe for the job but let's not go there) was make an arbor for such a work. Start with round stock or a bigger screw and turn it true so the chucked part is cylindrical. On the part sticking out of the chuck you leave a shoulder, turn the rest of the arbor so it's a tight fit to the hole in your part (preferably light press fit if you can manage it) and then put the thread on the end so you can sandwich the work between the shoulder and the nut. After you make the arbor don't take it out of the chuck as you'll never get it in exactly the same. Also use a larger diameter arbor as if will flex. When you turned the part over and saw that it wobbles, you should used your indicator to make the face run true by loosening the chuck and tapping the part in straight. You can also put a bearing on a shaft in your toolpost and lightly contact the outer race to the face of the work - that will make it self center. If your lathe doesn't do very low speeds turn the part by hand while doing this.

[@TimNummy]

Wow, thank you so much - those are both very helpful suggestions that I will be sure to keep in mind if I end up doing something like this again in the future.

[@analyst3412]

Hey u r really a very skilled engineer.....I like to watch ur videos...nd always gain some knowledge from ur excellent videos.....love u from india 🇮🇳

[@christurnblom4825]

Go to Harbor Freight & buy a $10 ...I forget what they're called... machinist square & ruler? ...The thing that often comes with the protractor attachment but you can buy these separate. Anyway, you simply put the slug in the square, like you would in a v-block, with the ruler attached and sore lines on it wile rotating the slug. The more lines, the more accurate the center but two lines would do better than that tool you made. If you want good tools though, you can get a decent set for $50

[@johnswilley6764]

Failure to secure work piece in drill press, grinding on side of wheel; was this a demo in how to do something in a dangerous manner?

[@TimNummy]

Maybe so? Can you not think of a single positive thing to say?

[@johnswilley6764]

@@TimNummy Yes Sir, "A" for effort; that being said, and me not being an expert in machining, please understand that my 1st concern(s) will always be safety (Lt.-paramedic/firefighter & Emergency Dept - RN). I don't want to see you or anyone else get hurt; you via your own setups, or someone else by watching. I do think that you had some novel approaches to resolutions of your problems. However, at ~7min. when you mounted the plate via the bolt, as you started to apply pressure near the outer periphery I could see the plate flex toward the rear; 2 things here, it will never produce an accurate cut, and(worse) you stressed the setup thereby weakening it. As an aside, I have a lathe that size, and also a 12 x 36. Everything has its limits. some other clues would be the "finish" you had during your 1st facing op, adding to that the fact that your initial boring cut generated stresses on the setup which would cause a smooth, BUT eccentric bore lead to the obvious eccentric setup when you flipped the plate for the 2nd operation(s). Lastly, it was not my intent to offend you. I still screw up (last time I ignored chatter in a cnc milling op which lead to a broken EM, and wasted work piece. I would suggest that you check the channels of some of the Masters on YT for those finer points some of it may bore you, but in the end it could save you $ and time; also thing about what it will feel like if that part departs the chuck. Even if the part is "in the chuck" if it sticks out far enough you could have an episode of "micro-movements" which may "walk it out". (Check out Joe Pieczynski's - "Get your steady rest aligned) - not just about the steady. Best wishes, and I hope that you have a great Thanksgiving Sir!

[@dineshvyas]

So you don't know properties of chord and perpendicular?

[@kk2ak14]

Aluminum?

[@boonster666]

When finding centre on a round bar why not use a centre gauge a lot more easy ???

[@TimNummy]

You're right.

[@cliffrayner731]

And the hole saw didn't work.. why?

[@daviddavies3810]

Obviously you've never heard of clamping work when drilling, if that drill had snapped when it started spinning, where would that projectile ended up🤔

[@squatchhammer7215]

Clickspring channel will show you the type of tooling you could make for yourself for jobs like this.

[@roleic7246]

to turn the circumference of a large diameter part a good solution is to rotate the QCTP such that one dovetail faces the operator. Then you put a boring bar parallel to the spindle axis on the operator side of the QCTP. That usually gives you the maximum possible diameter. Check out this video "OLD STEAM POWERED MACHINE SHOP 21" 26 min into the video.

[@learningthehardway6186]

Dude kudos to you for trying to be innovative and sharing it with us on video. That being said... there are so many ridiculously unsafe shop practices in this one video its not even funny. Not trying to be rude, but I know that there will potentially be some brand new hobby machinist that sees some of this stuff and gets hurt pretty seriously.

[@TimNummy]

Thanks for watching and thanks for your comment - Others have mentioned some of the same concerns as you (some not as nicely so I appreciate that). I would hate for someone else to get hurt watching my videos but at the same time, I'm a brand new hobby machinist myself and learning a tremendous amount from the feedback on my videos. I have been trying to refrain from offering a "how to" video for the reason that I know I don't know the best practices and focus more on this is how I did it, maybe it will inspire someone else. Either way, I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment.

[@Novice1943nl]

You should use WD 40 for lubricating aluminium.

[@skricha6743]

Great videos! Recent sub. If you unscrew your autopunch and stretch out the springs some, you'll get the hammer function back.

[@TimNummy]

Thanks so much! I'll try that with the punch too, I've taken it apart and messed with it some but haven't tried stretching the springs.