Sizing a canvas with rabbit skin glue

Traditional method of sizing a linen canvas with natural rabbit skin glue. Prior to this sizing, the canvas has been laced on a temporary strainer.

[@ATINKERER]

That's a very thick coating of glue! I generally use a paint brush to put the glue on in a thin coat. Then, after it dries, I give it another thin coat. After the second coat dries, a close look will show shiny specks of glue here and there, but the weave of the canvas remains visible, and the texture of the canvas remains after a one thin coat of primer is scraped on.

[@thierrymoutard-martin12]

Thank you very much for sharing your own technique ! Indeed the process in this video is not the only one which works well. Sometimes with very loose canvas (thin threads and big speces between them) one can also soread the glue once gelified The jelly is "broken" by thorough stirring and then spread onto the canvas. If it is well done, it can size efficiently the canvas.

[@thierrymoutard-martin12]

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[@andrewkostelnyk272]

I find the best way is a ratio of 13-1 -so one measure of size to 13 measures of water -let it soak half an hour then heat in a double boiler until liquid-then ready for use -have used this method for years and works for me

[@harryeichelberger4799]

I seem to remember a professor in college saying that she would sometimes put rabbit skin glue on the back side of a painting that was finished but not tight enough on the stretcher, has anyone tried this?

[@annsalty5615]

Am currently experimenting with different size formulas, that being rsg, pva size, and acrylic. So far my thinking is leaning towards applying PVA size to temporary stretcher, not worrying too much about taught ness, let dry, then re stretch tight before proceeding with grounds. The acrylic versions of sizing, i.e. like gac 100 used with gac 400 first, I am not thrilled with as they leave a thick plastic film, and who knows if over time it will separate with the oil ground. Rsg, I would love to use, but too many archival issues I think. I think pva size is the closest thing to rsg currently. Time will tell and I probably will have left this earth by the time the jury is out on whether it makes a good size.

[@annsalty5615]

@@verydrunkcat I had similar results. Decided RSG is only way to go. The GAC was second best but created more a stiff rather than tight surface with weird texture. The PVA was awful. On the RSG, I had to experiment a little. Very flimsy linen, i.e. cheap, had issues with loosening up and uneven as the RSG super tightens it, probably unraveling going on. Had to discard a roll. Better linen worked perfectly. Then proceeded to make a ton of very large canvases and they all came out great so far with either alkyd oil grounds, titanium, and lead. If there is a way to use PVA, its not thru the stuff by Gamblin. I asked the manufacturer what they use on their pre primed linen, and they claimed was PVA. Probably different formula.

[@TheDemethar]

is it possible to imitate same procedure with PVA glue? But i guess it wont be the same since pva is really thin and gets absorbed by linen quite easyly.

[@thierrymoutard-martin12]

With PVAC or acryl products, the canvas behaves differently. The main issue is not glue passing through the fabric. It can happen here or there, but if you spread the glue with a Saber like on my video, and if your canvas is not too loose (In every case it is better to buy threads than holes when you buy a canvas!) the surface will be covered buy a good layer. It will be very tight when still damp. But after drying, you will discover your canvas to become loose and wavy. The jellying / drying process of the rabbit skin glue let the canvas as tightened after drying as it was when wet. With the PVAC glue, it is not the case : if you want your canvas to be as tightened as with RSG, after drying you must remove it from your temporary working stretcher and nail it again on your final strecher.

[@thierrymoutard-martin12]

Do you know why he did that?

[@thierrymoutard-martin12]

@@UncleJunior52 did you finally tried the top coat with Gamblin primer? Can you tell us your opinion on the result?

[@thierrymoutard-martin12]

Pour en savoir plus : sites.google.com/site/moutardmartin/Home/cours-et-formations/broyage-des-couleurs

[@khaledfazl6850]

For the long term ,using rabbit skin glue is not good primer .

[@thierrymoutard-martin12]

What primer do you prefer ?

[@khaledfazl6850]

@@thierrymoutard-martin12 you can use gesso or oil base gamvar ground gesso ,if you do oil painting .

[@thierrymoutard-martin12]

@@khaledfazl6850 do you know what components this gamvar gesso is made of ? Traditional gessos also contain rabbit skin glue (with a calcium filler like chalk or gypsum). I find these real gessos too brittle to be applied on canvas. Ok for panel priming only. Ils the gamvar gesso made from acrylic resin as binder ?

[@khaledfazl6850]

@@thierrymoutard-martin12 if you have any questions regarding painting particularly ,about oil painting check " Walcott Fine Art" on youtube .

[@thierrymoutard-martin12]

@Arturo López Indeed, restorers tell us that a canvas glued onto a panel is a very long life material. When preparing such panels, which glue do you prefer ? Natural hide glue, or resin like PVAC, acrylic etc. ?