SkeeterVac SV5100 Fix and Learn Part 2

[@dannybostock2157]

Thanks very much for your information and for being so complete and comprehensive 😁

[@ljsmith99]

Glad it was helpful!

[@larrybranchick8026]

Outstanding!!!!!!!! So glad I found your videos. I have two of these that are not working. I have replaced them both multiple times over the years. The manufacturer offers no repair service on these so you either buy new ones , repair them yourself or do without. I refuse to spend another $600-$700 per each for new ones that I know will only last a few seasons. And thanks for adding information on the parts. Well done sir, well done.

[@ljsmith99]

Thank you! I am glad that my video will help you get these units back online. Hopefully others will have positive results. Good Luck!

[@polara426maxwedge]

Ok I just finished my complete cleaning and rebuilding of the unit after it stoped working last season and it is working perfectly now. Your videos are fantastic. I found everything I needed on Amazon just like you suggested. You are a lifesaver. Thank you very much for the help.

[@Dlemonaid]

These are among the best instructional/repair videos I’ve found on youtube. I have two of these models myself that are not operational. It appears that, for me, replaing the gas valve solenoid and the thermopile may do the trick. If I’m feeling ambitious, I may go through a similar process as you have completed. I really appreciate how you showed the step-by-step operation and a description of how each part synergistically functions respective to the entire unit. Concidering the nice job you’ve completed it's almost a shame to put in back in operation where it’s just going to get all mucked-up again…LOL

[@bjrice4885]

Just rescued one of these from my neighbor's curb and am now confident that I should be able to fix whatever is wrong with it thanks to your detailed videos. I really appreciate you taking the time to record and post them, as well as your thorough explanation as to how everything works and your inclusion of part numbers and links. From what I've read, one of the ingredients in the effective but now-discontinued Lurex3 attractant was ammonium bicarbonate, which breaks down into ammonia and CO₂ when heated between 97°-140°F. I'm wondering if that unused power connection you pointed out in your first video might be able to be repurposed to power a small heated container in the attractant compartment to accomplish something similar.

[@ljsmith99]

Thanks for the comments! To answer your question, unfortunately, the Peltiers that power the fan and LEDS will not likely have enough output wattage to power a resistive load like an electric heater. Secondly, I don't think the attractant modification would work that much better as the amount of CO2 produced would be likely much less than what is coming out of the propane combustion process. The Octenol lure is only one of four attractants included on the Skeeter-Vac - CO2, LEDS, Sticky Trap, Lure. This machine has all of them and does a good job in *most* applications.

[@RobertK-gb8fv]

TEG modules for this appear to be on eBay now and then. This is where i got my replacements.

[@McBicbic]

Great videos, thank you so much! I tried ordering a couple sintered filters from the link you shared but they won't have them in stock until September! I found another site that sold them but the shipping time was the same so I believe is the same exact store just a different website for whatever reason... I suppose I'll order them anyway and hopefully find another place that sells them so I can get this thing running before summer is over.

[@ljsmith99]

You can get some extra life out of them if you clean them with BrakeKleen or similar. They don't have to be changed that often unless you have crappy propane quality or a deteriorating LP hose. Good Luck!

[@markcole3618]

One of the best instructional videos I've seen on youtube - thanks! My fan is not working - fan tested with aux power supply - observed unit build and maintain voltage to 13.8 - any ideas? Thanks in advance!

[@ljsmith99]

The fan and lights are powered by the 4 Pelitier devices sandwiched between the combustion box and the heat sink housing. While your output voltage may be at 13.8V when fully heated up (hopefully measured at the fan connector), that may be the output of only a few of the Peltiers as they are wired in series. What this means is that the wattage (amperage) of the 4 Peltiers is likely below what the fan needs to start up and keep going. The system needs the full output *volts AND amps* of all 4 Peltiers to have enough power to operate the fan AND the lights. Like anything made in China, I am willing to bet that these things have degraded or failed. I would replace all 4 Peltiers. Good Luck!

[@venomchris5818]

Thanks for the video. Do you know the part number for the Peltier Plates? I need to replace mine. If you don't know the part number do you know the size, voltage & amps spec? Thanks for any help.

[@ljsmith99]

They are a 30mm x 30mm model and I got them here. www.ebay.com/itm/375121743889?itmmeta=01HQEDBFYB07BKRFYXRM5ABYKX&hash=item5756ff9011:g:I2cAAOSwStdlfCV1&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAABECYEyaKJ9VSYJEfhMj9T%2Ff7Jz6%2BGO7wtRu7pX4%2FqGTKM8cLsVCYvmrGPafB43RBwgevx1qvWQB4FWarGJ3U1%2FRVw1v4vpdkQUbE19khHCtju75uodIbnAC%2BqDcE6iGfM9V7%2FGHoym6kYoAYd5k12Jp9KvuGFN5ff8e%2BMy9NEdLOBQlYZcGJkTRCAkpLIuXuTw5nRmuXntrhM3s1K6EM11unP76sSux9Hf4Qkwiu%2BPqG5vP8HlKyP0g0BeiM3blTFfG%2F%2Bz5%2B%2FvTBwaOzMGs1elI3%2FGtEll7dC9syL8ZFqVPv2W4%2BMMgV0%2BKyAQlZfnQpXIeFaAz%2FCQ8rHBdEL%2FJjlzD7l3z1oAPDkSmmBWmexrOff%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7b_rc27Yw

[@shawnseitz4963]

Hi , I have a model sv 3500c , I followed your vid and all is the same minus the 4 plates at the bottom .....but my problem is still the same, the propane ignites but the fan won't engage ? Is it the fan it self or the coil as suggested in the parts ? Any help here would be amazing

[@ljsmith99]

If the unit stays lit, it has nothing to do with the valve, coil, thermopile, or nozzle. Your issue is related either to a bad fan OR one or more of the 4 Peltier modules has gone bad. Best way to tell is to start unit and let it get warm. Use an multimeter to measure the voltage at the junction PC board attached on the corner of the housing under the fan. It should measure close to 12V. If no voltage, then the Peltiers should be replaced. If you have voltage, then replace the fan. Good Luck!

[@larrybranchick8026]

Question please : I am in need of two of the sintered propane filters and two of the light kits. I cannot find them anywhere. And help would be appreciated. Thank you. Larry Branchick

[@ljsmith99]

Hi. Unfortunately, those appear to be out of stock at many of the places that I have found. You can certainly operate without them, however, there may be a chance that the nozzle will get clogged with a piece of dirt. Keep the regulator super clean before you connect to the tank and make sure the tank valve is clean before you connect the regulator.

[@permariuslangaanes277]

Hello Thanks for a great and informative video. I have problems with a similar model Sceetervac sv35. It starts up and burns for 1-2 minutes, then the gas valve closes and it stops. Is there any way I can troubleshoot what is causing the main control valve to shut off? Thinking that it might be the thermal switch that cuts the circuit. I can feel the unit running hot before it cuts off. Can I measure this with a multimeter, if so what values am I looking for. Sorry for bad written English.

[@ljsmith99]

Hi. It sounds like your thermopile and/or gas valve solenoid is no longer working. The thermal switch is only there for a out of control temperature situation. The kilxon-style switch is Normally closed until the combustion temp rises over 250F. You can check it to see if its still good by using a multimeter to check continuity when the unit is hot. Keep lighting it and get the temp up and measure it. If there is continuity (normally closed contacts), then the issue is either the thermopile or solenoid. Absent of a multimeter, you can also jump the terminals of the switch and re-light the unit. If it stays on with the jumper, the switch is bad. From my experience, the switch is usually good. Good Luck!

[@jeffreid8539]

hi love the video, ive cleaned my unit but it won't stay lit, any ideas what might be wrong ? also do you have a link for the thermal coupler i couldn't find it on amazon.

[@ljsmith99]

The links to the parts are in the description. The thermopile and control valve solenoid are the items that keep the unit lit. Replace both of those and you should be fine.

[@linnjensen7469]

I wanted to see you finish putting it together with the light assembly I have mine torn apart and dont know where it goes back togethe

[@ljsmith99]

I am not sure I understand. The lights inside the round cover are attached with a single screw which holds the assembly to the inside of the large black housing. The cable is connected to a point next to the combustion assembly.

[@mleckelt]

I'm ordering the thermocouple but what is the round white switch you are soldering the thermocouple to? I can't find anything like it on the web...does it even need to be replaced? Just thought while I had it apart, i"d change it as well. Your video is great!

[@ljsmith99]

Hi Mitch! That is the thermal overload switch (aka “Klixon”). It is a safety switch which will break continuity of the thermocouple circuit when it gets above 280F. When the circuit is interrupted, it will close the safety valve to the propane supply. They rarely are an issue, so I wouldn’t bother replacing it unless it has NO continuity across it when cold. If you had to replace it, you could use an NTE DT0320 302F Open on Rise. Use regular electronic solder. Good Luck!

[@mleckelt]

@@ljsmith99 Thank you very much for the information and the quick response. I'm ordering whats needed today for my next weekend project. Greatly appreciate these videos.

[@mleckelt]

I just wanted to follow up with you on the outcome of my repair. Initial problem was unit would only stay running while I depressed the "gas" button. As soon as I let off, unit would stop running. I watched your videos and you were spot on with your recommendation and clarity on the repair. I changed the thermocouple and the magnet unit, ordering the parts on Amazon, using the part numbers you gave, changed everything out and the unit unit is working again perfectly. Thank you very much for sharing this information.

[@dannybostock2157]

One of the wires fell off the Peltier device 😕 do know anywhere to get a replacement ?? I will try to repair

[@ljsmith99]

Ebay. Look for 30mm x 30mm 12V 6A. There are 4 in the system. Your will also need to get some silicone heat sink compound - use same stuff as used on computer CPU heatsinks. Good Luck!

[@NigelWard-m2k]

Great videos. I followed the instructions to clean the system and the skeetervac now starts and runs well for a short time (after previously not working). I’ve performed some tests and have established that the unit is overheating. Measuring the temperature of the outer casing, with a laser thermometer, I see that the unit reaches about 105degrees centigrade and then cuts out. If I remove the thermal switch, the unit keeps getting hotter and hotter without cutting out. So I think the circuit is working, but I’m struggling to think what I’ve done to the unit to make overheat this way. Any thoughts appreciated. FYI I’m in England, so ambient temperature is low. Many thanks

[@ljsmith99]

The only way the unit can overheat is if the fan is not running fast enough OR its installed backwards. The fan should blow air DOWN through the aluminum housing and it comes out of the bottom of the unit. Verify the fan is spinning and blowing air in the right direction. If you still have an issue, I really don't know what else to suggest. Good Luck!

[@NigelWard-m2k]

@@ljsmith99 thanks for your response. After several trial and errors I found that the fault was the regulator. I replaced it yesterday and the overheating has stopped.

[@linnjensen7469]

I went to amazon ebay and northline express that distributes skeetervac and cannot find that replacement light , I also used the part number on your bag

[@ljsmith99]

Bummer. They may not be making this model anymore. I don't know what other options there are for this feature. I am also not sure how effective that particular lure is. I think the unit will work just fine without it.

[@dennisvogelius8602]

Hello there sir. I) have just bought a skeetervac new, but the fan never starts up. Do you have any idea what can be the problem. I really hope that you have an idea, cause we are beeing eaten up buy mosquitos :(

[@ljsmith99]

If you just bought it new, you should return it to the dealer you purchased it from. If its out of warranty, then you can get right into it. First thing you need to determine is if the engine is lighting up. If the engine temp needle is in the green, and stays in the green, then that indicates the gas is flowing and a flame is maintained. This means that the control valve, nozzle, thermopile, and LP gas regulator are all working properly. The reasons why the lights and fan are not working is because there is a problem with the Peltier modules, a defective (or restricted) fan, or something wrong with the connections. That will require more investigation. Good Luck!

[@dennisvogelius8602]

@@ljsmith99 Hey there THX for your swift reply. I talked with the dealer, and they will send me a new unit. The light is comming on, but the fan even after 2 hours of running does not. I believe that there might be a fan problem, but that I dont need to worry about anymore since it will be changed :)