Design Custom Supports for Diagonal 3D Printing

BUY THE SUPPORT FIN STL'S: www.angled.xyz/product-page/s...
Conventional printing orientations come with a number of downsides, like excessive post-processing, weak layer alignment, and material wastage. These inefficiencies can be detrimental to your parts, especially in mass production.
In this video, we show off how we are able to to print ANY enclosure at a 45 degree angle, offering stronger and more reliable prints. The best part? We don't need slicer supports.
Don't forget to subscribe for more updates and share your thoughts in the comments below. Enjoy the video and have a great day!
#3dprinting #3dprintingideas #designfor3dprinting #cad #3dprintingstudio #shortsvideo #shortsfeed
About Slant 3D
🏭 High-Volume 3D Printing: Scalability Meets Flexibility
Slant 3D's Large-Scale 3D Print Farms utilize 1000's of FDM 3D printers working 24/7 to offer limitless scalability and unparalleled flexibility. Whether it's 100 or 100,000 parts, our system can handle it reliably, while still allowing for real-time design updates, ensuring products evolve with the times. This adaptability is key in today's fast-paced world.
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Embrace a system that drastically reduces carbon emissions by eliminating carbon-intensive steps in the supply chain, such as global shipping and warehousing. Our approach minimizes this footprint, offering a more sustainable manufacturing option.
⚙️ Digital Warehouses: Parts On-Demand
Think of print farms as a "Digital Warehouse", meaning we can store your parts digitally on a server rather than physically on a shelf. parts are available on-demand, reducing the need for extensive physical inventory.
LEARN MORE at www.slant3d.com/
Produced by Slant Media

[@slant3d]

LINK TO FULL VIDEO: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bn-uh4Gti8aNi5I

[@yeroca]

It would be awesome if the slicer had this kind of smarts.

[@noahbuscuse5243]

I'm kinda wondering if it's possible to code a plugin to make supports like this

[@damonvi013]

Man, life would be dream if ALL slicers could do this by default, FDM and SLA. My mini and figure prints would be perfect all the time with no effort from me

[@DiabolicalDilemma_]

@noahbuscuse5243 its very possible but making algorithms like that are hard

[@yeroca]

@@DiabolicalDilemma_ Maybe it will be within the realm of AI in the coming years.

[@shsd7579]

Its not about smarts he was just making a really simple shape with a completly flat edge at a reasonable angle so you can easily design a support, this wouldnt work for most other prints that need supporting

[@chrisnorwood0211]

You gotta explain why it isn't good enough to print it horizontally or vertically before I go through all that work

[@lazerbeams2536]

I'd assume it breaks more easily along the build lines, which would make diagonal build lines harder to break

[@Aupexx]

@@lazerbeams2536 Yeah most materials are significantly weaker along the layer adhesion lines

[@AceOfBlackjack]

Breaks easier, and causes bad lining

[@thebclpoonilli3098]

idk if this helps but imagine fence pipes piled on their side. if the pipes are all parallels then the places they touch are small. if we rotate it the pipes will fall together into a stronger pattern.

[@rentaspoon219]

@@lazerbeams2536 your correct but it can now break at a 45° instead, would rather try and print it on its side if horizontal or vertical is an issue

[@chrisgill5692]

Been doing this for years on lightweight RC plane parts for structural reasons.

[@TheChalansillo]

So, structural reasons is in the first place the reason behind this way of printing? (Genuinely asking since the short does not give the whys)

[@chrisgill5692]

​​@@TheChalansillofor me yes, RC plane fuselage & wings from LW-PLA... but orientating at an angle can also help fitting longish parts on the bed. Practically but subjectively, get much better strength in certain axis. What we really need is the type of testing from Slant 3D to prove it with data across a broad range of variables, eg materials, angle of orientation, layer height etc.

[@TheChalansillo]

@@chrisgill5692 thank you for your comments and reply. For plane wings LW PLA is the “to go” material then? Do you print only the wing profiles or the whole wing?🪽 And the fuselage you also print it or manage to use other materials?

[@chrisgill5692]

​@@TheChalansillosee other videos from Slant 3D on tensile strength testing of dog bones samples. Yes LW-PLA for most parts, complete wings, complete fuselages, or sections bonded together, some in vase model, others fully 3D modelled parts depends on the individual plane and design. There is a Spanish company who use the vase mode method and supply digital kits / plans and had some decent guides which might help you get a handle on things, I'll try remember their name and send a link.

[@TheChalansillo]

@@chrisgill5692 thank you Sir

[@aaron4820]

Every time I hear an American creator say millimeter for an engineering or design related video it makes me feel like the future is ever so slightly brighter.

[@Jake-bt3fc]

Americans use metric a ton and most non Americans use standard a ton too. Most countries use both. I've never met a Canadian who says their weight in kilograms or their height in meters.

[@hola_chelo]

@@Jake-bt3fc "...and most non Americans use standard a ton too." NO. first of all, it's not standard, it's imperial, you cannot call it "standard" when the system is used in only 3 countries in the world. Second of all, why would anyone in their minds use the imperial system other than to convert to metric? I don't have to explain to you that metric is extremely simpler than imperial, you know that humans do not like change and especially despise change when it comes to things they know since they are babies, why would anyone who is used to metric even think of using imperial? You live in a 150 litre (0.15 m^3) sphere called bubble. If you think anyone outside america uses imperial you are delusional. "oh but it's used in the greatest country that's why it's standard". No, it's not used in Uruguay, no.

[@Jake-bt3fc]

@@hola_chelo If you've ever stepped foot into canada or england or australia or india or china you'd realize there is tons of standard system still being used all over in metric system countries. Absolutely nobody who knows what they're talking about would ever call the metric system the "standard system" Because they know that would cause confusion. It's an old word that people stuck with. No need to get upset about it.

[@danw.7935]

​@hola_chelo ok, so Uruguay is the best country now?! I need to update my game map

[@DaedalusHelios]

@@hola_chelo The standard is actually called standard or SAE for a reason. You are very confused.

When I saw your full video on this it inspired me to use a support cube in orca slicer, scaled and rotated to match what you are suggesting, and it stayed very clean.

[@slant3d]

Awesome!

[@zachsmith5399]

Support cube?

@@zachsmith5399 in Orca Slicer you can 'Add Support Enforcer' Google's your friend with this.

[@josemolina7715]

This video came to me as i was solving a problem that serendipitously needed that solution. Universe really lined up here!

[@metanevets91]

Not disagreeing or trying to ruin the vibe, but how many other videos did you watch before getting to the relevant one? I often experience this serendipity, but I also watch a lot of videos and have an ADHD's worth of projects going.

[@ImNotMe224]

@@metanevets91 I have never seen ADHD used as a unit of measurement before, but I think I like it

[@discorddoge304]

@@ImNotMe224 I like it, Picasso.

[@yogolee69]

Thank google for that

[@billyduchaj9586]

They’re listening

[@AckzaTV]

I tried this slanting diagonal printing for a desert eagle keychain slide, and it just wont be as clean looking, the parts with supports or flanges always looks bad.

[@sn31t33]

Try half the layer hight

[@ferrumignis]

@@sn31t33 No amount of reducing layer height is going to get the nice finish you get from a smooth build plate.

[@mrpugbot]

You can always sand parts

[@p3rc1muz19u3]

did you remove the support or flange?

[@wolffang489]

I don't see why you couldn't print flat if the part won't be experiencing load.

[@israelmata8286]

Been printing for a while its these pointers are some of the ones that are worth gold in knowledge if you want to print at a professional level

[@AckzaTV]

why cant slicers make suppprts like this for us? and sometimes tree supports are better thanthe fin you made.

[@magnuswright5572]

"Better" is the enemy of "good enough" and this, my friend, is good enough (for this part)

[@nunfre88]

That is one of the best tips for people in the world of 3d print!

[@CraigHollabaugh]

Now that's a power tip!

[@slant3d]

Thanks for watching

[@KateAliciaWhitmire]

Tested this out today, super effective

[@orange_district]

This is brilliant!

[@thatonefoxxy]

this is.. ABSOLUTELY GENIUS

[@AlwaysBolttheBird]

“No thank you I’m not soliciting right now” will always get me

[@jamesrosewell9081]

?

[@AlwaysBolttheBird]

@@jamesrosewell9081 weird I was watching a different video and commented that comment on the other video. Don’t know why it showed up here

[@aaronmccombs4966]

Excellent, very clever. Thanks!

[@slant3d]

Glad it was helpfu

[@dagurtheone3969]

@@slant3d helpfu lol Either way yeah it looks pretty good for a support

[@ichwanulputraperdana3676]

Great, now I want a 3d printer

[@DaveEtchells]

GREAT design tip!

[@ScbSnck]

Best 3d printing channel

[@burnout.c]

Great idea!

[@slant3d]

Thanks for watching!

[@FunDumb]

Beautiful!

[@daverimar1237]

A good method lower effort method is to auto generate support, then apply a support blocker an inch or so off the plate, I've had great success doing that

[@Aupexx]

This is the way

[@f.a.5865]

thank you for the tip i will put it to good use in the future

[@bitsurfer0101]

Great tip. I will try that soon.

[@ahnichamna]

great tip !!!!

[@slant3d]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Omar-ef4ci]

Se la complicó 😂 😂😂

[@DavidKSanders]

If you're using crappy slicing software, sure you need to do this. Just use paint on supports.

[@ctm92]

Channel name checks out

[@NickGurPlease]

Well I'm stupid... my eyes are now open, thanks. 😂

[@ilovefunnyamv2nd]

I want to print a weather cover for my video doorbell, so.... definitely going to include this in the model when I get to sketching

[@mvstahl1233]

With that surface finish I think I’ll just waive most of his printing advice

[@Tudsamfa]

Now that you mention it, I guess I could just print 40% larger parts in my tiny printer by angling them diagonally.

[@slog3video30]

貴方は天才。

[@antoniodettoli2845]

You genius

[@lokimidknight7319]

If you design your own parts you can also make them "flatpack" style. Asif you were working with sheetmetal but connect your bends with one or two layers as a sort of hinge. Then print the whole thing flat. The end result can be folded into shape access glued or welded at the seams. It's doesn't work for all parts but when you can use this method you get a part that is strong in all planes, and prints very easy and quick.

[@kevingoskowsky5587]

This is how I do the trays on my paint racks. They have small fins that snap into place with a touch of glue they work really well.

[@UloPe]

I’ve had great success with organic (tree) supports in those cases. Much less work and still not a lot of waste.

[@TheGamingCarousel]

ooorr you hit automatic organic support in prusaslicer ;) worked every time for me

[@composimple364]

Super smart Gabe

[@shadoom]

I like the part where you explained "why"

[@joshp.5714]

Nice!

[@DieselBoulder]

Thank god someone else is doing this. Ive been doing this since 2012 and ive never seen or heard anyone else doing it too. Booyah

[@nooster125]

dude you sound exacly like the daily stoic XD

[@Post2kart]

So what is the benefit printing it at a slant?? Better surface??

[@Dr.Shrike]

Because the layer lines aren't parallel to any surfaces, it has far more strength

[@lucjansadovsky1841]

@@Dr.Shrike lol, no it does not. It is till just a few millimeters of a layer cross section. Print your parts according to the conditions they shall endure, sometimes it's better to turn it around, very ralerly it makes sense to tilt it at some random angle like here. For flat part like this it's better to print them flat since the "loops" are always stronger than layer adhesion. Also the whole video is bullshit, at the angle he printed you don't need any support, and you can see that by the clean side surface he seemingly had to support. It was just wasted plastic, nothing of sense here.

[@darkfur18]

@@lucjansadovsky1841 you fundamentally misunderstand the reason for the support.

[@metanevets91]

I need more people to get into these comments. There isn't enough info for me to draw a conclusion about the best way to print.

[@DougIvory]

​@@metanevets91Depends on your printer tbh. In my experience, cheap printers can have a tougher time with certain kinds of overhangs so the ideal method is to design your parts so they can printed flat. Sometimes when I have an overhang I can't print, I'll slice the part along that overhang and seperate it into two parts. Then I can print the different parts in the ideal orientation, and I can just glue the parts back together or add screw holes and screw them together.

[@cainanlove8432]

Smart.

[@TojikCZ]

The demonstration does not utilise the support he modelled. If it needed it, this one support would not suffice. Might be still useful in other cases tho

[@miege90]

You misunderstood the reason for the support, it's not because the angle is too steep, but to support the entire thing cause of the overhanging center of gravity. Without the support, a torque starts to build up at the contact point, which may deform the part due to sagging or tip it over entirely

[@monadamus42]

Genius

[@MrDarkSky176]

fuck thats awesome! thank you

[@turquoisephoenix6548]

Great till you realize the layer lines are going through the center of the peace making it weaker to any kind of bending force

[@edwardpaulsen1074]

Your layer lines will ALWAYS be running through some axis of your part... if that is such a crucial "problem" then go and get a professional injection molded part.

[@benjaminsteakley]

Nice, i like the flange edition. I have been using fins on my infinite Z since the supports wont autogenerat at 45 degrees only at a 90 in simplify 3D.

[@Drakorianowl]

Try one without the fin?

[@bigr0809]

I was printing some stuff diagonally after seeing some of your videos suggesting just this for parts that need some strength in all axis. While doing this I had the issue you are adressing here several times, but always got away with the paint on supports in prusa slicer. However: removing that was always a bit troublesome - next time I will try using the type of support from this video :) Thanks man!

[@slant3d]

Glad we could help!

[@Roobotics]

If you have trouble removing generated supports, bump up the z-offsets for those interfaces in ~0.5mm increments until you find the sweet spot where they pop off without damage and debris left behind. The bond is somewhat influenced by factors like printing temperature/ambient/fan speed as well, but especially material type.

[@fotografbeznapadu2]

Well you can do this in slicer just select model and go to paint supports and paint area were you want your supports and select type of supports to organic and select generate painted supports (I know sometimes it consume more material but you don’t need model supports)

[@virtual_vanitas]

Put it at the Angle you want, put support blocker on the sides and then hit generate support

[@kawaiiLorenz1995]

Free Shark Fin Prop. Hehe

[@Scout339th]

I want something like this bakes into custom support structure generation for slicers!

[@monkeywrench1951]

Slicers should come with this feature.

[@AusterEngineer]

Me realizing the “child” playing in the tree was actually a federal agent sent to spy on my illegal boomer poaching operation

[@bookle5829]

i don't even have a 3d printer and this is cool

[@wesss9353]

Ender printer isn't that expensive

[@rogersolatapias8509]

resin printers having fun xD

[@Ratciclefan]

Wow

[@tommaillard1415]

Sometimes more complicated isn’t better… especially for older printers. As rule of thumb for strong prints, just avoid stresses perpendicular to the layers, as the layers is what fail first as the weakest link so to speak

[@Arek_R.]

Why not flat, the quality is so much better this way.

[@saschaherrmann1665]

Would be awesome to actually tell us why we even should print diagonally…

[@nowonmetube]

What he failed to explain is: WHY wouldn't you want it to be printed flat or vertical?

[@JAMKROMEDIA]

Can you pls explain why you want to print it diagonally

[@davidaustin7296]

Haven't watched full video but orientation of the print would be dependent on where the strength is required wish they would explain this

[@haves_]

now instead of weak in one axis, you made it weak in two axis, congratulations. Also, the support are useless, the thing can print on its own with that angle, you want support on the edges and few centimeters along the "bridge"

[@tayuhiroya9452]

OR! Just use support blocking feature on your slicer and block support where you dont want them. And for adhesion, use more brim.

[@andrewsmith2468]

1) the print doesn't look great in terms of finish quality 2) you don't HAVE to use "designed supports" you can use manual with the right settings. 3) I'd see auto-generated support providing the parameters are set right being more effective than your fin. This is some pretty bad advice.... You've not explained why it should be slanted (in this case it's a part that really doesn't need to be on a diagonal when printing in FDM Sucks seeing people dish out bad advice just to make YT clicks.

[@nevermind1O844]

Regarding the "cleanliness" of that method: this only looks clean because the printquality itself looks shady.

[@JM_Tushe]

You missed to part where you explain why do I need to print it diagonally.

[@leomonk974]

NO, you never want supports in your prints unless absolutely necessary. Just split the part into pieces then assembly it later

[@aBigAstrounat]

Can do this in insight on our Stratsys printers. It’s called stabilize walls.

[@firebird2713]

And why again are we makijg more problems than we need to? You didnt tell us why its better to print the part diagonal 🙈🙈

[@crabmannyjoe2]

It also depends what kind of loads and pressures you are expecting the part to be under. That 45 might not always be the best.

[@arvidnorberg3530]

Your tips are great but what about the printer you use, it seems that it runs rough to make the walls that fuzzy

[@TripImmigration]

Than you make this support hollow

[@ClodDev]

This is good info but you’ll get a cleaner more uniform print if you print flat just get a flexible build plate and calibrate to eliminate the elephants foot issue and your good to go

[@maciej.opalinski]

Still don't know why angled is better

[@Samortify]

That only covers the middle of the part right? How do you deal with the overhang on the rest of the back surface?

[@Whamola]

If there's room in the part I'll cut off a corner to give a good surface area for the first layer. Brims always peel up for me, but helper disks seem to be pretty reliable to create a larger first layer for more adhesion.

[@Bmr4life]

Oooooh 😮

[@ludwigthedragon8645]

Extra as hell

[@Mankey1234]

I mean, it depends on the load case you're thinking of. If its just a container that's not load bearing, flat is fine.

[@sramey101]

That fin isnt doing much beyond minimizing wobble when the bed moves. Your bed adhesion is just setup that well. Anything 50 degrees or less is easily achievable on sla printers. A tip is to make the slope with the X gantry so the Y movements of the bed won't shake the part off.

[@batjos74]

There are good reasons you should print on an angle. But it’s not ideal for every situation. I don’t do this when I have extruded text or holes that I need as smooth as possible. It can create a staircase effect even with thin layer heights. Just be sure to see how it will affect all parts of your print. If you’re not concerned with a specific surface being super smooth then go for the angle for the benefits as mentioned by others. The type of filament also matters. I rarely need to print on an angle with TPU.

[@SniperTeamTango]

Oh god that's crazy

[@TheVekxx]

what software are you using for the design?

[@Clda47]

Is this the guy from its always sunny?

[@schlierenguy]

Is there a point to printing at an angle, besides if you want to print a large number at the same time?

[@slant3d]

Reduces bed surface contact, enabling auto-ejection in mass production. Also, in certain situations like this box, it can improve part strength.

[@RNMSC]

@@slant3d Also the surface texture of the bed may not be what you want on a designed product If it is, hey, more power to you, but that doesn't change the amount of effort required to remove the part from the bed. ::-)

[@NIGHTDREADED]

You can also just print the part at a 45 degree angle and require no supports.

[@irondan357]

Ah yes, the emotional support

[@zrider100z]

Also it's not really a support in the general sense. It's more of a stand but I think it's a great idea nevertheless

[@Radnamrok]

Still waiting for him to explain why do I have to print it diagonally.

[@justinlipper8526]

Girl, I don’t know what type of 3-D printer you have, but if I try to do this on mine, all I would get is spaghetti

[@cryonixx8277]

Wow, I don’t think I’ve seen anyone else use Fusion 360

[@landonlove4101]

What 3d software do you use?

[@prathmeshkarale5095]

Can anyone tell me why he didn't print that part horizontally or vertically and chose to do inclined? that it will need more support material right? Or it has Somthing to do with quality of part being printed 🤔

[@ssoya1394]

ohh it's just like gundam model kit runners, having a small nubs that are easy to cut it off