Slings vs Lanyards vs Personal Anchors - Differences, Usages & Safety Musts | Ep.3

[@adaptivo3692]

I started climbing in 1994. I’ve done alpine climbing, big wall, rock, ice and mixed climbing. I’m a Rock Climbing Instructor and also an IRATA Level III, Instructor and Assessor. This guy is a fantastic Instructor and I am happy for him to take me back to school. B.

[@sundenta]

ㅈ

[@internet33]

B who?

[@WilliamSurles]

I love that he says "If you don't understand what just happened then home for you is to figure it out." Every climbing video on youtube should say something like that.

[@imxd9698]

I've been climbing for nearly a decade and know most of this, but it's such a valuable resource I'm just gonna donate to you for taking the time to make it. Cheers!

[@GHOSTVAPOR]

I have tried. Some. Spanset. And they are a bit bigger. But. Awesome and ver hard to kill. Well its made for structural stuff. Thats why

[@TheCrusher2468]

Same here i just like to learn, I am an Arborist so the rock climbing stuff is a bit different and like he said its always good to know things even if you may never need to

[@antoonstarink]

Every climber should see this video. Thanks for the clearest presentation on this matter ever.

[@pushingravity]

I absolutely love your content. As a new climber your channel gives me all the information that I need - how the gear works, how to be safe, how to push limits, etc. The format is perfect for me and it's readily digestible. Keep it coming. I greatly appreciate what you do.

[@HardIsEasy]

Far from everything, get someone more experienced go help you to start climbing ;) But thanks!

[@skip1860]

You mean videos

[@reneeschke]

I have watched this now in full for the third time over the course of 9 months. Each time I absorbed more and understood certain details better. This video is a nice refresher and I will keep coming back to it, because your way of explaining thoroughly with this relatively low pace just makes me more confident. This is especially true when having to make decisions in unexpected situations. No matter how much you practice dry... on the rock, pumped, windy, under load things are just always different. I love how you not just say "this is how its done", but explain why you do it that way. Watching your videos gives me the tools to explore myself and make decisions based on pros and cons. The many positive comments of experienced veterans and instructors builds even more trust in your content. Thank you very much for that!

[@jackmaclean7564]

Wow just last night I was multi pitch climbing. Was anchored in with a sling that was a step behind me while belaying. I had no idea this was not recommended sheeeeesh! Thanks for the video

[@johnbuchanan578]

I don’t climb anymore, but I love watching your content, entertaining, informative and interesting. You are a superb instructor.

[@phillthomas2806]

These are excellent videos and very easy to follow. Having been climbing for 55 years (44 of those as a IFMGA guide) all over the world I would strongly recommend them to those seeking knowledge about ropework and use of climbing equipment. Keep it up.

[@dieguxi94]

I'm sharing this with all my Decathlon coworkers, lets see how far can we go!

[@StinkyBlack1]

I have no intentions of ever climbing anything, but I find these videos fascinating and you’re a great KZbinr.

[@x_isaka]

I am not a climber,mountaineer trekker but owner of equippment shops and i love this guy contents. HIS INFORMATION HELPS EVEN NEWBIES AND AMATEURS

[@skip1860]

You mean videos

[@riderCX409]

Awesome videos. Thank you so much. 21:48 - I also like the Adjustable dynamic lanyard the most. What I do about "the extra tail dangling around your harness" - I extend it to be around its max length, clip it to my harness and then tuck the hanging rope under the harness strap on my leg. Somewhere on the side works the best, as the rope is not in the way. And a try to raise my knee as high as my flexibility allows, to make sure that the tucked rope is not limiting this move.

[@marektomecek6536]

Really cool explanation of slings and such. But when you were cutting the slings yourself, holding such a big knife, ooof got some goosebumps.

[@stephenklemich]

Thanks!

[@HardIsEasy]

Thank you Stephen!

[@KariWickstrom]

This is probably one of the best climbing channels I've come across. Everything is explained so well. Really awesome.

[@metalgearbas4]

As someone who's been sportclimbing in a gym for 3 years now, and who's wanting to make the transition to outdoor climbing, this course is invalluable! Thanks so much for taking the time to put this together, it's gold!

[@kid5Media]

Excellent tutorial. I can actually remember when from one season to the next all the Yosemite Valley regulars started using the clove hitch.

[@rooshey1234]

Interesting video! Stay safe and keep them coming! :) As a side note: those falls with the big knife on your hand seemed rather dangerous :/

[@ab-tt4mm]

Narr ,he knows what he's doing !

[@tylervelasquez5639]

I could barely watch the danger lol! Perhaps next time, one person cut while the other falls. Great video!

[@Dirtybob23]

So dangerous.

[@Alejandrorluna]

I was scared watching it... I only can focus on the blade...

[@joshburger2217]

Stressed me out lol

[@sofadomonge8633]

I'm from Brazil. And i have difficulty to understand english vids. But you speak clearly. It helps me a lot. Thanks Man.

[@HardIsEasy]

You can use Brazilian subtitles ;) Thanks to people who helped me to translate!

[@sofadomonge8633]

@@HardIsEasy hahhahha.. thanks, i didn't notice.

[@jamesb0nd007]

When I’m sad 😞 I watch this video for you’re face reaction 😅 make me feel alive 🤣 10:17 how you struggle to cut the sling by rope 👍

[@gillmayo151]

Started climbing 18 months ago. As a 58 year old novice your videos are so helpful in quickly and reliably getting to grips progressively with terminology, equipment selection and climbing skills and technique. Thanks.

[@PeregrineBF]

WRT equipment inspection: Rated gear also has a serial number. I keep a spreadsheet with all the serial numbers for every piece of gear (categorized), date of manufacture, date of last use, date of last inspection (not counting field inspection before use), purchase info, and notes about anything that could make the gear marginal (eg got left in a hot car or held a fall factor >1). Makes it easy to ensure I fully inspect everything annually. Probably overkill, but I'd rather have a bit of excessive caution when it comes to gear, particularly as I climb trad.

[@HardIsEasy]

I think many companies would like go hire you 🙂

[@Syrupjuice]

That's an awesome idea. I'm going to adopt this.

[@kuhnn1291]

Can u share this spreadsheet??

[@PeregrineBF]

@@kuhnn1291 Why? It's my personal gear. It's useless to anyone else.

[@kuhnn1291]

@@PeregrineBF I was just going to apply it to my gear. Kinda like a template

[@danman281]

The KZbin algorithm brought me here. I have no interest in this topic but mentioned the word yesterday. Coincidence

[@joeu2689]

Sehr informativ. Und sehr sauber gesprochen. Mein Englisch ist nicht gut, aber ich hab fast alles verstanden 👍 Ich bin der Dyneemaschlingen Typ. Leicht und vielseitig einsetzbar.

[@oscarrox]

As a complete novice, just looking at safety gear for challenging hiking routes, these videos are a treasure trove of well presented educational climbing gear guides. Highly recommended.

[@albrigo]

Great video, you go into the important details and highlight the difference between static and dynamic belay, without useless blabla, often seen in other YT channels.

[@VytautasTumas_T]

Fantastic video, good job, it's looking to be a fantastic library of climbing safety knowledge! Regarding connecting slings with a larks foot, I was taught that connecting two, different diameter slings with a larks foot is extra risky, as the skinny one can easily cut the thicker one. Especially when the skinny one is Dyneema and the thick one is Nylon

[@cyberflaneur9127]

Finally, I’ve been waiting for a video like this for so long.

[@danielsigursson8512]

I really had no idea about lanyards or slings. Very good information in this video.

[@cycloneranger5354]

Absolutely excellent video with no BS. Thank you for your time and effort bravo

[@pedroconsoli4568]

The structure and clarity of the videos is surprising, also the support of experimentation. I have never seen this level of professionalism on other climbing or youtube channels! and translated subtitles! cheers from Argentina!!

[@HardIsEasy]

Pleasure to read ;)

[@matthewbazerkomccusker74]

Looks a lot like my little brother :) you have climbers out here starving with no slings yet and your just cutting away on everything!,! !!!!🤣😂👍✌️

[@stereothrilla8374]

Word of advice: break or cut the point off of that knife when doing those tests so you don’t accidentally bounce and stab yourself.

[@QuantumMech_88]

Many rock climbers who are also cave climbers , carry at least one length of common garden water hose to protect ropes and sling materials from abrasion . Thanks for an excellent video and all the best.

[@manandearth]

Thanks buddy, super clear, super helpful, super informative.

[@HardIsEasy]

Glad to hear it!

[@LouStoriale]

Been watching these types of videos for 2 years. I enjoy your mastery and video styles the best.

[@akiburi6370]

Thank you for great videos! Really good channel 👍👌🧗‍♂️🙏

[@HardIsEasy]

Thank You so much Aki!

[@electricace8423]

loving this series thanks for making my transition to outdoor climb so much smoother!

[@juancatalan3095]

I been reading a lot about climbing and anchors since couple of years, but seen here all together is awesome! cheers to your work! amazingly right!

[@BadgerDog42]

Intentionally falling while holding a large chefs knife is definitely a choice lmao. Glad youre testing for our benefit though hahaha.

[@Ptitviaud1337]

I think i agree with pretty much everything in this video. For the via ferrata, you're absolutely right. Dont fall. If you're not exactly confident about what you're doing, remember that if you're at least two on a via, you can also have a form of belaying to ascend the via. This can ease a lot the experience for beginners.

[@ASelman]

A great video and a clear and thorough presentation, thanks. A comment for the test when you are using a rope to cut a sling, the Dynema heats up and then fails. It changes behaviour at different temperatures. When it is heated up it can stretch and deform more easily and it's tensile strength is reduced at that point. However once it has cooled it will stay deformed, but substantially recover it's strength. This is less of an issue when climbing, but when a dynema rope or sling is 'working' hard (under high load and tighter radius or a friction anchor like bollard wraps, then it heats up under the high load condition and reduces it's strength when dynamically working under high load. Keep up this good work.

[@figet45]

Your videos are top notch! It’s nice to know all the options and pros and cons especially for being new to buying equipment it’s hard to know what you should get , but this clears it up very well!

[@furkanakkaya6433]

Thanks man! It's amazing to find all this informations in one video.

[@rubenvillanueva8635]

Excellent!, I am not a climber, but thoroughly enjoyed learning about the equipment you use. Gracias!

[@AndiKoF]

These videos are incredibly good. Thanks for putting in all the work. It's basically my recommended go to resource for all my friends which have learned everything they know about belaying or material from me or another friend.

[@2LiveinaVan]

i knew it all the years and know you told me this story....i never stop to pull my rope into both rings of the harnest....omg

[@zdog90210]

This video has given me a lot of great ideas on how to get back in my upstairs neighbors 11:02

[@carolscab]

Back some 17 years ago I actually tested to fall on a 60 cm dyneema sling in an indoor gym where I worked. Nothingbrokean d I was uninjured, that's not to say it didn't hurt or it was a good experience.That was the most static catch I ever had and one of the most stupid experiments I've done. Had the sling been 120cm or more I would surely broken my pelvis, this is where I felt the hardest strain. Great vid!

[@xkully561]

I remember watching this series when I first started climbing and now I’m a few days way from my lead climbing class and find myself rewatching it thanks a lot for the video

[@adelinspv]

23:35 May I rise a point dear master Ben ? The PETZL landyard withe the two adjustable arms (PETZL evolve adjust) is NOT an IPE (individual protection equipment) as précises in their specs, so it's ok to use it for routes equipment or maintenance or artificial climbing please keep this in mind. Maybe it can works but it's not designed and not tested and not standardized for this use. And thanks again a lot for your amazing content and your incredible pedagogy, you do really makes hard and complex easy for anyone interested in understandi'g the gear that allow them to stay alive in vertical configuration. You really are precious and beloved man. I wish you all the best. A french groupie.

[@wido123123]

While I'm not going to endorse using daisy chains for personal anchor, the "problem" you show with the stiches can be mitigated by looping the carabiner at the end. In a fall, you still gonna break the stiches but you will not fly out of the chain. Also, to get 4kn you need to have a REALLY BIG whipper, which "should never happen" to a personal anchor

[@HardIsEasy]

You can generate 4kN on a relatively tiny fall if you are attached via Slings only. I did a quick test here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mp3ZmKZ9eK2esK8

[@alane3983]

Thanks! This was very helpful!

[@HardIsEasy]

Thank you so much!

[@bryanwatt9751]

Excellent vid, thanks for sharing.

[@Nturner822]

Thank you so much for these videos! You explain things so clearly and might even save my life. I recently got some rappel and ascending gear to access new areas while hiking and feel a lot more confident using them thanks to your videos

[@HardIsEasy]

Good to know, although I wouldn't rely on this info alone and do recommend getting some local supervised guidance to actually learn ;)

[@skip1860]

Thank you for calling them videos and not stupid content

[@piethein1997]

Unbelievably educational. Keep up the good work! I've subscribed. As a beginner in the outdoor climbing scene this is just what I need

[@Therealadriaanvisser]

Perhaps one thing to add to the overhand knot in a sling; for example for the extended repel setup you showed, is to clip the leftover loop into the carabiner to avoid any issues if the knot slips. This is what was taught to my for outdoor lead climbing years ago

[@billysmith7990]

Just wanted to say thank you for the great amount of knowledge your content provides! I am new to climbing outdoors and all your videos really teach me a lot! You're the man!!

[@skip1860]

You mean his videos

[@tacul9333]

A purcell prussik the best tether for alpine climbing. Quick and easy to tie. Adjustable in length, dynamic, and when not used as a tether, it functions as a sling, so it's multi-purpose.

[@classicsbav]

As a new climber, your work is gold! thank you so much!

[@TheBlueChromis]

I use the kong slyde attached to the harness. No awkward reaching to adjust it from the anchor point. Impossible to lengthen without unweighting and tilting it down. Still quite easy to adjust when needed. However, the rope is important. Mine came with a 9.0mm rope and after a lot of use, the rope developed flat spots which allowed it to invert on itself in the slyde. Switched to a 9.8mm rope. No issues and still feeds nicely.

[@bylbanos]

At 16:32 I'd place my locking carabiner upside down, so the screw gate is screwed down: so the gravity prevents it from being accidentally unscrewed. Also thank you so much for posting these videos and having them for free. I've learned a lot!

[@mymobile5014]

Fabulous videos. Made my mind up about an issue I was having. Thank you so much.

[@ZarAthran]

The dedication of the man willing to fall with a knife in his hands to help science progress, hat down!

[@Temporalus]

What about a Purcell prussik? Nice and adjustable, and very dynamic w/ nylon and knot slippage. Probably the cheapest option as well! You can even use dyneema cord and get the strength of dyneema with some dynamic shock absorption from the prussik slipping during a fall. I have a short one for a personal anchor and a long one for easily adjustable anchors or to protect myself when I need to be able to move near a cliff.

[@alikartal8426]

Falling with a knife in your hand, WOW! I hope you knew what you were doing.

[@DieselDoktor]

The look on your face in the intro was hilarious. 🤣 great video.

[@prnet]

The most detailed and complete video on the net. Great job man!

[@ElmariSchoeman]

Hi. LOVE your channel! Love in-depth reasoning and quirky experiments. PLEASE PLEASE make a video on how to set up an anchor for top roping outdoors, as well as how you recommend to clean a sport climbing route - top rope and lead 🙏🙏🙏

[@11airon11]

Hi! Thanks for videos!! Regarding attaching slings on harness my preferred method is using a bowline on a bite on tie in points of harness...that way the loop of sling in tie in points is equally long as the belay loops and doesn't squeeze the harness tie in points( and sensitive parts...😁). Some people says that a very skinny dyneema sling girth hitched to the belay loop might cut it easily under load because the hitch gets tighter and tighter under load...using the bowline on tie in points fixes also this potential issue...

[@DrStephan]

Aaron, the bowline on a bite uses quite a lot of sling length. Do you then use a 120cm sling instead of 60cm for tether? Also, do you dress the knot with 2 different loop sizes to be able to clip to different distances from the anchor? I see that as an advantage of the bowline on a bite.

[@11airon11]

@@DrStephan yes...usually i use a 120 with the bowline on a bite and a simple knot in the middle, so I have the tether in the longest "loop" and repell attachment in the shortest "loop". You can do just a short tether with a 60 cm sling..

[@rainerludberge2440]

I am a little late, but after watching Ryan's videos on how belay loops break, I think this is a very good idea! Hirth hitches seem to have a huge impact on the material, they are connected to (same problem with the wire loop of friends).

[@mrkojs]

Great video. Even though I am climbing and doing alpinism for few years I still found out something new. Cutting with knife and then falling was maybe not the brightest idea. You could hurt yourself at the fall with knife.

[@filda2005]

1:34 never let go of the dead rope. Even with grigri.

[@Mike-oz4cv]

Yes, but in this case it has already locked, so probably okay. But still not really advised.

[@gavinlikesbikes]

This series is seriously excellent. Can’t wait for more

[@sophfro]

No Purcell prusik? Cheap, adjustable to make weighting while setting up an anchor, and also can use it to self-rescue if need be.

[@brycecastleton5863]

Crazy how many lives these videos can save. Experienced folk or not.

[@Lutzenberger]

That is a great video including all the pros and cons on using slings etc. But i would like to comment on using a sling as a tether since it is used really often especially outdoor for clipping into anchors but also in multipitch for rappelling or even (sometimes unfortenately and poorly installed) instead of the standard clove hitch method with the rope: you should always use a clovehitch in the carabiner facing the wall! it is not only recommended by the german DAV; it probably was the reason for the death of the famous Kurt Albert. The loose sling can always slip/escape through while opening the carabiner, you don't notice, place it, hang into it and ... that might be it. It is a small detail but has a great impact. all the best and thank you again for your really well made videos.

[@SirCharcoal]

So many great points. This is an International public climbing service!

[@FabianReyes-x5w]

never gonna go climbing but this is interesting

[@Ron4885]

That's where I am too. All the gear is really interesting.

[@atomo8730]

I loved that you mention the different Petz adjusts. I bought the single but I quickly realize that for abseiling I finally have to build the extension with a sling ( with the consequence of thinking "I drop it for multi-pitching or I buy a PAS or the double version :P? money money moneyyyy). Talking with other people, it seems to me that the most versatile piece is the PAS (metolius or grivel)

[@Naviachi]

Lol. I'm watching this course and I don't even climb and never will (probably). I just love watching people climb and this course will teach me so I understand what's climber doing.

[@MrCombic]

The best of two worlds is Camp's Daisy Chain Twist. It solves the problem of accidental clipping in adjacent loops (the biggest problem of a classic daisy chain) and also is mounted to your harness tie-in points without squeezing the harness parts as a normal sling does. Obviously, it isn't dynamic, so you have to be careful.

[@nelsonpingay1489]

YOUR DEMO IS VERY USEFUL AND VERY IMPORTANT. THANKS FOR THE CARE. MORE POWER BRO!

[@cl91000]

You deserve all the praise. Thank you for being such a great teacher!

[@enzolagares22]

Nothing dangerous about falling with a knife in your hand 😂 Edit: just saw this in his insta post lol

[@asmoth360]

Yeah I was worried he'd injured himself in the face with the knife, while doing a video explaining how to climb safely that would have been quite ironic xD

[@thomasmoran1211]

I nearly cried 😂

[@ProjectMaelstrom]

One thing that I noticed after many and many times I saw this video on the cutting experiment between sling and rope is that the melted part of the sling is mainly the painted nylon on the outer part of the sling while the dyneema looks more intact. Which it actually makes sense since nylon is not doing good with high temp.

[@scottcesar5999]

When I was learning to rappel, Daisy Chains (or accessory cord knotted into several compartments) was used for multiparty rappels. One side was tied in to the active rappeler, and clipped to the rappel device. then a separate loop (preferably on the far side of the attachment to the rappel device) was clipped to the rescue object so both the rescuer and rescuee would be independently connected to the rope system. It seems prudent to carry a personal anchor which allows isolating two attachment points when doing anything multi pitch where evacuating the area would require lowering on the rope system.

[@Barbok_]

Thanks a lot for what you share and explain here ! Your videos are perfect an I like the way you talk of climbing and belaying. Thanks again, support from south of France.

[@reallunacy]

As someone who doesn't climb, it was interesting hearing a few name brands of bow strings as climbing gear.

[@Skinflaps_Meatslapper]

And if you're bowfishing, there are even more brand names to recognize with fishing line.

[@shoqed]

Hey excellent episode and series. I noticed that at 4:30 you mentioned Petzl experiment that you may have slightly misrepresented, they stated that the difference is not just rigid mass vs human body but also belayer displacement, rope slippage through device etc. And the forces are higher up to 70%, not quite twice. It might sound like nitpicking but if someone thinks they have 2x margin of error, that might end badly.

[@HardIsEasy]

Thank you I looked into the article again, and I'm missing actual details on the two protocols they tested... It's unclear if they fixed the GriGri to the anchor in Rigid mass drops and had a belayer with human masses or what they did? If you have more info I'm curious!

[@ПерстФомы]

Зачем я это смотрю!? Лазал в молодости по горам, бог знает, сколько ДЕСЯТКОВ лет назад, но парень рассказывает интересно, живо, с примерами! Просто завораживает👍👍!

[@adrianavm100]

"Just don't fall on Via ferratas" 🤣 Was watching to see if I could get some new insight since I'm doing my first one next weekend. Great advice. 😁

[@ettaphd]

Hi, nice video. Any thoughts on aramid slings?

[@JohannesFeix-iu9xe]

Immer wieder toll zusammengefasst. Als Einbindeknoten am Gurt für die Schlinge kann man auch einen Boulin machen. Dann bleibt die Performance des Gurtes erhalten. Ich weiß nicht, ob das schon jmd erwähnt hat. Beste Grüße

[@elenarivera3191]

I just started climbing.... I´m scare and excited at the same time, thanks for the info😬

[@erikpeterson4546]

In your segment on how to attach to the wall, there is another method which is extremely versatile. The system is a 180cm sling, basket hitched to hard points, with an overhand slightly more than halfway up. This creates a redundant tether. When sport climbing, each loop of the tether can be clipped to a separate bolt - this essentially creates a redundant anchor which the climber is directly tied to. It is also beneficial in that the loop below the knot can be used to pre-rig and extended a rappel. This is an excellent system for multi-pitch climbing.

[@dayven.3659]

@ 1m49sec the petztl tool is used

[@andreasnulein782]

20:07 I'm not 100% sure anymore, it's been a while since I went climbing but: I think the dynamic will still catch you correctly because if you fall for a shorter distance you also wont need so much breaking slack. That's why it's sufficient to talk about fall factors for different material, and not like "minimum slack on dynamic ropes".

[@prof.eurico]

Thanks for such a high quality and important content!

[@sasaaslan]

The Multichain Evo from CT climbing Technology has an extra loop which you attache into your tie in point and with this additional loop it prevents from squeezing the harness. Your videos are always great and very interesting!