Why there's still the handle on the plate when you are not supposed to hold it that way as you would do for grigri? Am I missing something?

why carn't the cover sheath be made to roll around ?

Great testing giving us very helpfull information, also you are fun to watch with great humor, easy going with a laid back demeanor, and understandable explanations to your crazy experiments! Thnx from a noob-to-climbing, and geek =)

Ask your french friends what means "hardi zizi"

Really appreciate it.

Q: is your test-weight the standard (EN-892) 80/55 kilos for rope testing or what you using?

Sooooo belaying from above?... Not feeling it yet Mr Crabs..... sticking with Reverso.... Yes I just picked up Neox yesterday

Any chance you could do a video on suspension trauma, I had someone with considerable experience tell me that sitting for more than 7 minutes in a harness is bad for you. What are the best ways to avoid trauma if you are in a situation where you have to stay suspended for an extended period of time?

Awesome review. Thank you. Best climbing content on KZbin. ❤🙏

Question. Why didnt Petzl just play with the spring tension on the grigri's cam? it could pay out rope without the need to use the thumb and still engage the cam action on a fall.

So I have neither the grigri or neox. What would people suggest? It seems better to go with the grigri?

Hold the brake hand of the GRIGRI, FFS!

Thanks for doing the video. I'm worried about all the moving parts. More moving parts equals more ways it can fail and that's concerning to me. I also did a bit of a spit take when you said they claimed you wouldn't be able to make it fail with your strange experiments. That's how I knew you would get it to fail, anyone who claims you can't get a product to fail is just counting on time until someone manages away. Also something I don't see people talking about, but for those of us who climb a lot in the desert and get sand in absolutely everything, how is this device going to fare when it's literally loaded with sand?

Klick klick klick klick

Charlie's voice sounds like Peter Whittaker's.

Gri gri is an *assisted* belay device.

It would be good to see a video like this seeing how different belaying from the top is as well. Nice work!

best rope name should be pinocchio

I use the Megatron Gridlock with the gat to the right and the GriGri in the large basket. As per your tests, this is the best compromise of handling and safety that I found and it works great for me. Seems super goof enough! Thanks for your research!!!

Just I buy ones yesterdey! I was a little scared about, Thanks for your video :)

What I really like about neox (haven't use it yet ) - it seems much more user friendly for left-handed ppl :) Any lefties here to share impressions? :)

Tried it out for the first time yesterday, instantly fell in love with it despite not getting along with the regular grigri... The pulley system makes giving slack faster than a tube, which is an insane feeling.

When is NEOX-2 coming out?

Thanks! Your review totally confirms my belief that the NEOX is an overengineered alternative to the AustriAlpin Fish. The Fish is a slack-giving-king and at only 68 grams its weight is a fraction of the NEOX. If giving slack with an auto-belay device is what you're looking for the Fish is just so much more intuitive, cheaper, better, lighter, smoother and more silent. (those clicks on the NEOX are so bizarre!) Curious to know if you have any experience with the Fish and how you would compare both?

Another great, unbiased video. Thanks for showing the pros and cons of these devices so we can all making informed decisions.

I was searching for a camming device and after reviewing your testing of various devices, I decided to go with a trango vergo. I'm really liking it so far, and I think as a lead belay device it seems to be doing everything you're looking for besides feeding slack like the revo. I don't feel like the neox is solving the equation for me, but it's a super neat design.

Petzl finally gonna win the battle to not have people rope solo with their belay device

Thanks for the video, ben!

IMO most of the problems with synthetic long-chain polymers (eg nylon) in this use case are either abrasive (ie micro-cutting: tears) or heat (from friction) resulting in those slides displayed from the microscope. A natural fibre such as hemp for the core would make a rope's core much more resistant to the latter (& heavier, stiffer & less consistent, obv), but ideally you need some super-resistant abrasion-resist on the middle sheath(s) (the outer sheath is mostly for handling & 'soft' abrasion resistance while in general use IMO) without compromising the rope's flexibility. I think kevlar/carbon fibre is prolly too stiff (& maybe not so good vs shear/tear forces from abrasion), so certainly materials science needs to be done You could increase the rope's elasticity (ie shock protection/dampening) by reducing the weave 'tightness' of the outer sheath(s) and/or increasing the twists and/or number of (twisted) strands in the core, but this doesn't solve the fundamental problem: it simply pushes the problem across to another layer until that fails (& makes the product more difficult to use: tight twists make rope less flexible).. tho it may make the original mylomar (? I missed that pronunciation) strand concept more practical Regardless, v interesting vid: TVM!

The static frictional coefficient of the rope is the same The kinetic frictional coefficient of the belay devices is different

I'm watching this on youtube. Just show me the full thing. Yeah, I get it you can't put a 30-minute video here but I'm not here to watch more ads

Shes one of the most beautiful people I have ever seen

Plot twist: After washing the rope it became better and gained superpowers. Now it grows everytime someone uses it.

is it any good for top rope belaying?

On my very personal opinion, the best device is always the safest one. I can understand the purpose of Neox, but if we want to be real, situations where the brake hand is needed by the belayer for other urgencies happen all the time. Be it for a falling rock, stomping on the rocks on the ground or any external "panic" situation where your hand is not holding the brake, you want your device to help you. The brake hand, even if it is a rule, it is also dictated by circumstances, and "safety" tools have to take into account them aswell. I don't really need to give slack faster knowing that a human mistake can kill somebody

Thank's a lot for your "strange experiments" (😅) ! ...and (as a french) I'd say we would pronounce it the same as you do 😉

I'm French and certainly wouldn't have said Néou. ^^ Thank you so much for all your videos though!

It seems to me that adding more damping in a fall would help a lot, as seen in the video where you let go the rope. Why not having a fuse like we have for via ferrata climbing equipment? This add more dynamic in a fall. That could help reducing friction against a sharp edge.

I will never understand why someone really needs this? Tubers like the Mammut Smart or Edelrid Jul are foolproof enough? I mean for KIDS grigri style belay devices may be a good thing, because of their scattered attention. But other than that ...?

Thanks!

Have you tried Neox from a top belay?

Thank you very much for this VERY interesting Video. Learned something new. Mine is arriving this week. Best wishes, Nobbby

Hey Ben! As a frenchy frog myself i can assure you there is absolutely no region in France, even in the most remoted ones, where someone would pronounce it "Niiouuuu" 😂 Great and interesting video as always! Grigri forever. ❤

donno what's the missed opportunity here. minimum load is the only slack giving condition, so u get the convenience, and on 20kg load it's as safe as the old gri, sound like an improvement to me.

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I've never gotten the hang of the grigri method, to be fair, i haven't tried either. That said, my go-to lead belay device for the past years has been the Revo. Now with the Neox i have a new favorite, mainly because of the ease of holding a climber who's projecting. I did notice that it is abit 'jerky' as the climber is about to start climbing again after a fall or hang, it needs to "click" out before the wheel starts spinning again, but i didn't notice it when lowering a climber. So far i am impressed. this is the "grigri" for those of use who never got the hang of using a grigri.

Обожаю ганг!!!...

I can't wait to see how many people will injure themself using this like they used to use the GriGri :D

11:53

Thank you for this video. Still a Cinch fan, and other belay devices other than Gri Gri. As with all complicated belay devices they are considered assisted braking and not auto braking for a reason. Proper belay technique is paramount to poor belay techniques and attentiveness to holding the brake end of the rope. The accidents will keep on happening until this is addressed and the NEOX has done this. But then again, there are other more simpler devices that already provide smooth belay with assisted braking features.