BB92-41B is everything we ever wanted

[@RichardGate-UK]

A great explanation of the range, I never knew the detailed differences. very interesting thank you.

[@Mapdec]

Glad it was helpful!

[@humpy125]

I have been running one of these BB's for about 35,000km. Absolutely no issues. It doesn't creak and still feels really smooth.

[@PeterPutz82]

100% spot on. Put the pressure back on the manufacturers QC. Great video, thanks.

[@abhimawa1]

Wonderful episode. Been with fancy BB’s and, in the end, back to Shimano BB. Excellent construction. No BS. Does the job as BB is supposed to be. Good one, Paul 👍

[@DavidJones-nl2xw]

Great content and detail as usual. This is my favourite bike content channel.

[@Mapdec]

Wow. Thank you. 🙏

[@KurtisPape]

I've used a BB71 for 15,000km and it still feels like brand new, no play, no grit. It will no doubt last over 40,000km, only time will tell.

[@wsbygt]

Sorry m8, you saying that you rode a plastic shimano BB71 for 15.000km and it feels brand new? You ride that bike indoors right?

[@Dimashoey]

@@wsbygthe shares similar experience with me tho I changed at 12000km. I ride in Indonesia climate, around 20% of the distance are wet rides. BB71 is good enough for me.

[@wsbygt]

@@Dimashoey No problem with riding a plastic BB+low cost bearings for thousands of Km´s but claiming that it feels brand new?? I couldnt make a shimano BB last more than 5000~6000 until it started to rumble and creek on my training and racing ROAD bike let alone past that mileage on a MTB??? Sounds like an amazing claim. I´m just amazed serioulsy.

[@KurtisPape]

@@wsbygt This BB is in my road bike and I use it outdoors and on gravel roads. I'm in Australia so I don't ride in the rain much but plenty of damp rides. I thought the reaction would be the opposite because some people ride 10,000km a year and surely they are not replacing their BB every year?

[@wsbygt]

@@KurtisPape Let me recap: I couldnt get 4~5 months from a cheap, plastic shimano BB without creaking and the bearings starting to rattle. Let alone 15K from a lowcost BB. That sounds outrageous from my experience m8! I just wen, like the pro and amateurs, for a reliable and serviceable CNC BB. Hambini in my case.

[@glen3509]

I had a HollowTek 2 non XT Shimano bottom bracket for just over 15 years (Mar or Feb 2008- July 2023. HollowTek 2 Bottom brackets FTW❗️😁🤙🤙

[@philr696]

Amazing that shimano did such a great job on the bb but not so much on the road cranks that fit in them.

[@wsbygt]

Shimano 105 ... has entered the chat.

[@davidburgess741]

Many manufacturers use the Hollowtech 2 standard. Solid forged versions are on the market too.

[@clp91009]

100% agree Paul. BB86 is perfect, I’ve run the BB72 and BB92 versions on my bikes and they are all the bb I will ever need. Durable, smooth and reliable. If someone has a misaligned frame they should warranty it and not try to solve the issue using a 1 piece bb. Long live BB86 press fit. I do use a tiny smear of grease to install but I know you and Shimano advocate fitting dry.

[@joehart3826]

Top Video Paul, you are always at your extra best when it comes to BB discussions. Because it's clear in your head, it's clear in the video, not sure anyone could be clearer. Still waiting for you to interview Hambini...

[@gaza4543]

BSA/threaded brings it own set of problems within a carbon frame. Your just swapping press fit with bonded threads these will fail make no mistake about that. You have to remember these are the same manufacturers that can’t engineer a simple hole do people think there going to bond these threads in correctly. Thread only make sense in metal frames I wish sram just used a 24mm standard but there are solutions such as rotor cranks. I’ll see how my sram bb gets on but I think I’ll have rotor in my life by the summer

[@George_bush_911]

The Dura-Ace is definitely my all time favorite BB. I install them on customer bikes all the time and they've never caused me even the slightest issue when the frame has been reamed/faced

[@sccxvelo]

It was the quality control of other parts that killed pressfit not the BB.

[@macht4turbo]

I just went with a dura ace bb92 for my new bike and it was actually a reason I chose the frame, because I know the bb will be on size (my winspace slc 3 measures perfectly) and I wanted the advantages I could get from a bb86. Stiffness and lightweight. I don't want a t47 for a shimano build and i dont want bonded threads. Getting that quality bb for that low price is great, no need to get a 200€ bb. Next black friday I will get another bb for 30€ and be happy.

[@rolandmg1]

The Dura Ace BB92-41B is the best bottom bracket I have ever used in 45 years of riding. I’m using them on 4 different Ridley’s and they have never squeaked and last forever. I have done over 25,000km’s on one bike and that includes 6 days a week through the winter. If you have a well machined frame with tight tolerances there is no better choice.

[@tomekborucki1120]

Have been working as mechanic for 16 years. Assembled and serviced thousands of bikes. I don't remember a single frame or bike with threaded bb shell and some creaking issues. And couple of hundreds with multiple issues resulting with warranty claims - press-shit type. There are more pf issues you haven't mentioned - in many cases the bb's are EXTREMELY difficult to remove. Tight fit results with a lot of resistance when removing the cups. In many cases the plastic sleeve gets in pieces and the bearing sits tight and can't be removed because the inner race is flush with the bb sleeve making it difficult to fit the tool. I have 3 different ones. I remember 2 or 3 cases I had to cut the bearing risking the bb shell damage. Bikes are for people not people for bikes. Couple of times I fitted pf bottom bracket and had to remove it - it ended up with braking the cups. Threaded ones - no issues.

[@Mapdec]

You never had a frame with debonded threads? If the pf frame was correct, it wouldn’t have been a tight fit. 🤷‍♂️

[@Manetty6]

You know, that's the problem with Shimano. They become a boring standard, no marketing, just making highest quality for cheap. Without flashy slogens, they aren't on the hype train. You can buy nicer parts than Shimano, but you can't buy better (espically for the price).

[@cup_and_cone]

When I worked in a shop, the lower-to-mid end Shimano (i.e. Alivio/SORA/Claris, and now Cues) were pretty much the dominant component of the "million mile" bikes I've worked on from people passing through - those who ride from one side of the country to the other, or spend a year off life just bike packing around the country. No frills, no crazy performance, just something that keeps working until it doesn't and can be found at almost every shop.

[@valmorell]

Problem is pretty much always America. Overhype, overcharge, under develop.

[@Manetty6]

@@valmorell It"s all around the world. People need to be told what to do, what to buy, what the "best". (Jerks win in politics too. :) ) And most of the first world people have money wether they are bitching about it or not. In "less developed" countries is just a bigger burden to buy over hyped stuff. If you reading this from north america or western europe (or equivalante) multiply the prices with 3-4 (bc of the wage differencies) to "feel" how much you have to work to afford eg a 300€ BB in a second line country. Or multiply by 8-10 for even lower income countries. Marketing works and sales.

[@DR_1_1]

Never had any issue with the "lowest quality" BB-RS500-PB either...

[@Ryan_Odyssey]

​@@valmorell Except most cycling media are British...

[@bingbing3464]

My ceramicspeed bb is still in the box because the plastic shimano bb that came with my bike is still working fine over 2 years and 10000km without maintenance as i was hoping for it to fail 🙃

[@Mapdec]

Love this 😅

[@ridedirtymtb9938]

Awesome video, I do love that xtr bb. Your right about people blaming the wrong component when something goes wrong.

[@basberger5921]

Riding Sram Dub I switched to Mortop (on your recommendation). When this bb wears out I'll switch to Shimano cranks, much larger bearings and probably less fear when things will break or wear out and spending less.

[@bashoutvan317]

I did the same. Very good choice I think. I’ve had a lot of problems with The 30mm axle bearings. I’m always riding in the mud during the winter. There was water standing sometimes between the bearings. With The Shimano XTR version these problems are solved.

[@pmckeown38]

Press fit and Hambini stood at the end of the production lines providing QC for bike frames

[@mrjono999]

I'm totally with you, I run dura ace on my Van Nic frame. I've used the park reamer to make sure the slightly undersized BB shell is now at 40.98. Works a treat, I think they are reasonable too.

[@5dayMovingAverage]

Been using aliexpress BB, Cost me $9 and works great. So far so good after 2 years and still feels new. Their bearing are cheap to. $10 for 6 pieces. I don't think ill need bb replacement for a long long time.

[@johnlesoudeur3653]

First class video that all bike mechanics should be mandated to watch. I use the XTR PF version and installation and long term service is excellent. I think that so many riders, mechanics and the press have been poisoned by the untrue mantra that PF is always conducive to creaks. I have even succumbed to this mantra when I started hearing creaking sounds on my most recent XC carbon frame bike. After assuming that it was the press fit XTR BB, I found that it was a frame suspension bolt that needed retorquing and the second time it was the UDH hanger splitting and causing some flexing. I have found that the top end Shimano BBs use higher quality bearings (including the pedals). For carbon frames in particular, the PF system is better but on metal frames then the BSA screwed system has an established place. For a 24mm diameter steel spindle the Shimano PF is a no brainer.

[@Mapdec]

This all sounds very familiar

[@CleverSmart123]

Thank you for the detailed overview. I’m waiting for my old 105 bottom bracket to give up, but it keeps on working

[@denis_roy_7]

Merci!

[@Mapdec]

Oh. Thank you sir.

[@MS-bw7yt]

Best BB by far! Not even a question!

[@Cycle.every.day.]

Ah thanks , is this the conclusion to the best bottom bracket mic drop video from a year ago,as that video didn't resolve itself really.

[@Mapdec]

Not really. That video was the best choice for each major frame / crank combo. For BB96/92 frames on Shimano 24mm cranks this is the same in more detail. The humble BB9241B or BB9441A

[@Ivan-oh6ug]

Shimano bb86 and 92 on my TCR and Commencal, not had to change either for several years, and not a creak out of either of them. Threaded is great on metal frames but problematic in carbon frames as the bonded inserts can fail over time.

[@JibbaJabber]

Bravo. 👏👏👏👏 Speaking truth to the bike industry.

[@garyputtock4159]

Fitted a Shimano Bb92 in the summer and touch wood no creaking which is amazing as the frame is Taiwanese stock carbon frame (from the Ridley factory I believe). Installed as per Shimano specifications. Let’s hop it stays that way.

[@denis_roy_7]

Very informative. I applaud your proficiency! Thank you!

[@Mapdec]

Glad it was helpful!

[@davidpalk5010]

Can't beat Shimano BBs - especially the budget ones. The old UN52 used to be totally bomb proof for thousands and thousands of all-weather commuting miles. The only thing that would ruin them was maintenence-spray (WD40 etc.) and spirit-degreaser ingress. This is true of most Shimano BBs - they perform and last really well unless badly compromised through inept maintenance. 7700 Dura-Ace was a complex and iffy design, but the cheaper Octalink sealed units were all great. HTII units were also all good, and BB86 is the best of the press-fit types. It's such a shame that factories can't seem to produce frames with simple interfaces which are dimensionally accurate. Shimano should perhaps work with frame makers to develop a bond-in 41mm tubular unit that frame factories could build into frames to ensure a perfect BB interface every time. BB86 could then be the perfect system with no opportunity for dimensional inaccuracy and the frame problems which we now regularly encounter.

[@antonpeterson1245]

When I bought my Emonda ALR, it came with what I believed is the Tiagra level bb as the geiupset was also Tiagra. Creaked after the first ride. Ended up going for a Token Ninja and hasn't faulted. When the bearings go, I plan to remove them and replace with standard size bearings and a topcap.

[@richardbolt287]

I changed my Speclized Tarmac sl4 S Work's to 24mm Shimano Thread together. It's been prefect ever since. No adapter to 24mm anymore.

[@sbccbc7471]

Running an adapter for 6806 bearings to fit Shimano Hollowtech II cranksets is always not a good idea, even though it's cheaper. Back when I used to sell Specialized bikes, I try to talk customers out of the idea, NOT for a larger commission, but purely for a less problematic bike (seriously, who doesn't want a bike like this?). The less parts there are in a system, the lower the chances of creaking.

[@andrewblakesley4202]

I'm heavy with fair power output. I've prematurely killed a few bottom brackets, but none were Shimano.

[@tomeklubomir]

Another great video Paul. I’m running SRAM Dub on my TCR with 41mm shell and those BB bearings are even tinier than the Dura Ace version. TBH not getting a great lifespan out of them. I just wish SRAM and SHIMANO was still compatible in the 12speed version, which would then allow me to run SHIMANO BB & SHIMANO Crankset paired with SRAM group-set. Sadly this is no longer possible… Yet another example of the bike industry overcomplicating things…

[@Mapdec]

With that combo, alignment is key. You can use a set of parallels to check.

[@bashoutvan317]

I have had a lot of problems with my PF4130 bearings on my MTB. I tried everything, but nothing helped. Especially with the wet winter en spring here (in the Netherlands) I kept replacing bearings and taking them apart. I was so fed up with it. That's why I replaced everything for the Shimano XTR bearings with an XTR crank. I have been riding without problems for months now! Really the best bearings as far as I'm concerned and also much cheaper than all the ceramic bearings.

[@thecleaner81]

Awesome video! The naming of Shimano is really confusing and I have searched in the past what really are the differences between the different models and found nothing. So this video is for me the gold standard for this question now. Thank you a lot. The biggest issue with Press-Fit at least for home-mechnics is the replacement procedure. The standard way of using a mallet to force them out of the frame is really a annoying work which I was not able to manage at my frame. I now have a fantastic but really expansive enduro tool which makes this a non issue. However, this tool use some significant amount of pressure on one side of the frame in order to push the shell out. Do you know this tool and would say it is fine to use with carbon frames?

[@Mapdec]

Yes. Depends on the frame and how much you have to push against.

[@thecleaner81]

@@Mapdec Thank you for your answer. I suspect that the fit for the bottom bracket on my frame is too tight which causes the significant amount of force in order to get the shell out. I think I will stick with the pseudo Press-Fit/Threaded BB from Token (Ninja) for this frame.

[@Mapdec]

@ or just ask your bike shop to correct it.

[@黄辰旭]

after struggling on the bottom bracket for half year, this video released.

[@Mapdec]

Good things come to those who wait.

[@Rose.Of.Hizaki]

I must be one of the few people in the UK that is running with a BB-72. My bike came with Ultegra 6800. So I keep everything ultegra apart from the cassette. Ive heard conflicting reports about ultegra cassettes actually lasting longer but this is the way ive always done it. Maybe i'll stick one on when the time comes.

[@owensnicholas]

I have two questions: 1. My road bike uses a BSA external bottom bracket. I’m told that the press-fit and BSA Shimano bottom brackets use the same sealing across levels is that the case? 2. When I needed a new bb for the same bike, I bought an Ultegra-level BSA Shimano bb. I was under the impression that the Dura Ace bb was a little less draggy, but not as durable. Your examination of the seals suggests that may not actually be the case. Can you clarify? Thanks! Love the channel!

[@Mapdec]

2 ways to look at it…. Smaller balls might corrode and pit easier if exposed to moisture, however smaller multiple balls also have more surface area to carry load. The DA and XTR also have that additional labyrinth seal to keep moisture out. Aside from extreme pressure washing and poor drying, I would say the DA and XTR usually wins.

[@owensnicholas]

@ I ride my bike in some pretty harsh condition, so I clean it, but I don’t tend to get water ingress on the bb. Maybe when the ultegra wears out in several thousand miles I’ll get a dura ace…or a different bike by then anyway. Thanks again. :)

[@paulclark6706]

Think I'll get in my time machine, put it back to 1990, have a 26inch wheeled MTB with a threaded UN52 square taper with a 9 speed drive chain, never had "compatibility" problems in thoses days... Really interesting though Paul. Thx

[@Mapdec]

True. Just chain suck, drop. Rounded off cranks and broken shifter displays

[@paulclark6706]

I actually think there should be a Mapdec BB standard, perhaps Paul has this in mind but won't give away the intellectual intelligence 😆

[@Mapdec]

@ oh god no. 🤦‍♂️

[@peterwillson1355]

​@Mapdec What kind of nonsensical response is that?

[@peterwillson1355]

Wow, you had 9-speed cassettes in 1990? No one else did!😂

[@HarishChouhan]

Paul, do you remember our conversation about "Mortop" BB86 Dub bottom bracket? Well I installed it on my old bike (Emonda ALR 2021 Disc) when I was rebuilding it in November. 2 weeks ago, I removed it and put a sram Dub BB. The Mortop BB was tight as hell. I mentioned it to them, and they said just use a mallet. But the force required to push the cranks was just too much which worried even the bike shop. After it was done, then it was riding with a tik/tik sound. Went to another mechanic who check the frame (BB) area tolerance, cleaned something (paint) and reinstalled it. But again it was too tight and the sound remained :(.

[@michaelmechex]

That sounds like undersized/misaligned bb shell in the frame, did anyone even measure it or try to ream it out?

[@BKltd001]

This is almost an exact copy of Peak Torques video posted 2 months ago. 😮 some parts quoted verbatim

[@jooproukens800]

Biggest problem is that some Bike manufacturers can’t make a perfect round hole, let alone 2 perfectly aligned round holes. That is where special expensive Bottom Brackets are needed such as the Hambini ones!

[@chrisjong8412]

As a bike shop owner having a press fit BB as your favorite tells me you are really sarcastic😂

[@Mapdec]

Nope. Genuinely better. What’s not to like about it?

[@peterwillson1355]

Absurd. It's just two bearings and a spindle. It's amazing and shameful that ALL bbs are not "good enough."

[@NordicTuga]

As an experienced an super informed bike mechanic I think you probably are right on spot with your opinion

[@the6ig6adwolf]

As someone who rides fixed gear exclusively, sometimes I can't help but chuckle at how unnecessarily difficult the cycling industry makes things.

[@lovenottheworld5723]

Riding fixed is the cure for component anxiety. Especially the brakes. Any brake becomes good enough.

[@the6ig6adwolf]

@lovenottheworld5723 I run brakeless 😉

[@Ober1kenobi]

^ doesn't even skid to brake, just plows on through But yes, rode fixed gear and eventually single speed for years. My knees, after multiple hard crashes for various reasons, couple surgeries, no more fixed gear for me. But you're 100% correct, the industry especially bikes with gears make things way too complicated for themselves and the consumer.

[@richiejames928]

It’s actually pathetic how complicated they can make a basic two bearing system that’s very very low RPM and has zero heat issues.

[@lovenottheworld5723]

@@richiejames928 It's the perpetual quest for stiffness and low weight that wrecks the design. The design was already perfected with the square taper cartridge. It was also a selling point to say that the cranks could be removed and reinstalled countless times without damage, but a square taper crank doesn't need to be removed and reinstalled for the life of the cartridge for any reason other than changing the smallest size of chainring which is easily avoided. Just use the second smallest size.

[@MrJaycobsen]

Never had a problem with pressfit and I have always run the dura ace one, 3 different bikes Giant TCR, Emonda ALR and a Hong-fu 008sl. My current bikes are BSA though, as long as you have the right tools Installation is not really a concern with either bb standard IMO.

[@jooproukens800]

Giant does make really good quality frames. I rode a tcr before I had my Time Adhx sadly that bike was too big for me so I sold it.

[@kieranfrend3831]

Great video, I'm always so confused by bottom brackets. Please can you do one for threaded too, I'm updating my shimano groupset and not sure which is the best one to pick. Thanks

[@jsca470]

Run steel bikes with BSA bbs. Would it be correct to assume that the internal differences as you go up the range are similar (but different) to what you describe? I run the old saint bb because it like the gold colour against my black frame

[@Mapdec]

Yeah. The bsa is just the same pressed into an alu cup instead of a polymer cup.

[@jsca470]

Cool thanks. Interesting to see the difference between the different levels of product and what your getting for the extra money

[@Cinnabuns2009]

I thought the Hambini sleeve's were titanium? Doesn't aluminum need to be anodized so it doesn't corrode the frame interface with moisture? (dielectric?)

[@Mapdec]

These are just polished alu. He does a version that is anodised.

[@davidburgess741]

The threadless standards were ruined by shoddy frame manufacture. High spec frames were often as oval as budget offerings. When you find a good frame, you hang onto it!

[@jooproukens800]

I always said it, the el Cheapo plastic shimano Bottom Brackets are better than those fancy ones. They are very well protected from water and mud so they will last a very long time. No need for special ceramic bullshit.

[@glen3509]

I had a non XT HollowTek 2 Shimano bottom bracket ($35.00) for over 15 years🤙🤙. March or February 2008 - July 2023

[@grahamaustin9085]

@@glen3509That means little without mileage. I changed one at 26,000+ miles last year

[@aznwierdone]

I'm excited to hear why the return to bsa might be not ideal, especially as someone who primarily owns steel frames

[@Mapdec]

Because they are gluing in a thin sliver of threads to a carbon frame. We have already seen them debond and corrode.

[@simonr8323]

Thanks, very informative.

[@Mapdec]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ShoelDaniel]

Ordered mine.

[@basberger5921]

Sram Dub is 28,99mm 😊

[@carolyvonfaula1622]

really interresting , but for me ,( i don't like carbon) the best is cup and cone bottom bracket : it s heavy but durable and easely fix . Stronglight forever !

[@rendezvous_with]

Why does the DuraAce have smaller bearings than the cheaper versions, for the weight weenies? I would suspect larger bearings would last longer.

[@Mapdec]

Depends on the need. Bigger balls are a larger contact area. Pros and cons to both.

[@petersouthernboy6327]

Paul - do you see long term problems coming into the shop with BB86 and SRAM Dub ? I know it’s theoretically not optimal in terms of bearing capacity but was curious about “real world”.

[@Mapdec]

Yes. The bearings cease due to corrosion or poor alignment and the axles wear

[@hansonwang2121]

Hey Paul do you think that aluminum frames with press fit bottom brackets are less likely to suffer from the misalignment and sizing issues of carbon frames?

[@Mapdec]

No. Probabaly be more likey to be filled with paint. Just get it reamed.

[@RichChh]

It's because of these BBs I want to go back to Shimano cranks. Currently I have Praxis and the BB always gives trouble. (likely due to poorly shaped BB shell.)

[@reghardtwiehman2346]

Not a standard sized bearing on the BB71. Think they are a mm thinner than a standard size. On threaded Shimano BB's I have replaced them with a normal bearing and just remove the lip on the outer cover and lose a spacer or 2. Works and seals better and way cheaper.

[@Mapdec]

Ah yeah. They are the same as campg bearings.

[@Yamaha_Bolt]

My Orbea Orca came with 105 mechanical now upgraded to Ultegra Di2 12sp the BB is a 386evo from WheelsMan I'm getting uneven witness marks on the crankset axle and I get vibration in the drivetrain that are annoying on the trainer unnoticeable on the road. I want to replace the BB with Dura-Ace but was told by the lbs that it is not possible. Can you elaborate? I'm almost certain my original 105 setup had the cheaper Shimano BB with reducers for the 24mm axle. What I do t like about the wheels is the bearing and axle are steel on steel. Thanks.

[@Mapdec]

They are correct. Shimano don’t make a 386evo unit. Other brands make a plastic shelled one that looks similar. FSA for instance.

[@seanpeter3613]

Is Shimano using a locating/non-locating or floating bearing arrangement?

[@Mapdec]

Not terms we usually use in cycling, but they are a ball bearing in a race. Like a 6000 series bearing. I believe this would be floating.

[@joehart3826]

Ah, the guy with a PhD in BB's back!

[@Mapdec]

lol.

[@hl8964]

Shimano won't let you down. Jim Diamond.😂

[@sevenninthsfabmachine]

The funny thing about the move back to threaded BB shells is that people think bike manufacturers can somehow cut + face threads that keep the bearing faces parallel and the bearing internal diameters coaxial. Like what? If the mfg’s can’t be bothered to make a simple press fit properly, why would they make a (way more complicated) BSA or T47 properly?

[@Mapdec]

Or glue the threads in properly. You know, clean and score the surface, cure at correct temps.

[@FliskerX]

I got the Dura-Ace, Ultegra and Tiagra level Shimano BBs and for some reason the Dura-Ace was slightly bigger, both Ultegra and Tiagra would go in new Aeroad properly but the Dura-Ace would make crazy noises as it was bigger. In the end I sent the Dura-Ace back as it has to be out of spec. Would be curious to know if you ever had this issue or if it's "normal".

[@Mapdec]

Not really. Shimano guarantee 41-41.07mm.

[@FliskerX]

@@Mapdec Yea I don't know what to make of it. The Dura-Ace was 41.07 but both the Ultegra and Tiagra were 41.00 bang on. And I did push the Dura-Ace in the new Canyon Aeroad, while kinda scared from all the noises it made, but then I wasn't able to put the crank in, it just wouldn't go in, as it was compressed. So I still don't understand how both 3 tiers of the BB are not the same. Ended up using the Ultegra and everythings good.

[@caveboy9988]

SRAM dub is 28.99 not 29.99….and re Bikeone bb 0.1mm = 100microns My perception of these Shimano bb are not great. Have seen lots of the top hat caps split to be convinced they are a durable solution.

[@The_Normalised_Cyclist]

My press fit ultegra was creaking changed it to a token ninja and nothing just smoothness, the same went for a cannondale bb30 shell

[@Mapdec]

yeah, the token are a hack, because they thread together the cups have to be undersized to allow them to thread. The compromise is that it clamps your frame in an axis it wasnt designed for.

[@The_Normalised_Cyclist]

@ an insightful remark. Never considered it this way. For the alloy cannondale as a cx bike it ain’t making no difference, but I have as well a tarmac sl5 with BB30 and wanted to ditch the old cranks and switched to shorter arms. Went for the threaded token for Shimano 24mm axle. Now I wonder how that impacts the uniformity of the material inside the bb shell, considering the compression forces exerted from both sides of the shell. After 2,5k km no issues tho

[@joehart3826]

Where's the Colnago C40 update? ;😜

[@Mapdec]

I’m taking it apart again on Monday after the owner changed thier mind after reading all the comments 😅

[@joehart3826]

Exciting 😊

[@dmlopezleon]

Totalmente deacuerdo que son los mejores soportes para bb86, si los fabricantes de cuadros pusiesen en el pedalier un soporte entero de aluminio mecanizado no habria problemas con los cuadros, el tema del peso hace que salgan fallas y lados desalineados.

[@RisseK1]

I picked my current bb because of its colour :)

[@Mapdec]

Was it black?

[@RisseK1]

​@@Mapdec Golden! Shimano Saint.

[@jsca470]

@@RisseK1 me too. Goes well with my gold wolf tooth headset on my black Kona honzo st frame. Just need the gold wolf tooth seat post clamp

[@paulvanreesch2493]

How does press fit bb386 stack up? Similar reliability?

[@Mapdec]

Bb386 is just a shell standard. Similar but with a 46mm hole

[@ebikescrapper3925]

I still run square taper, cheap and last ages

[@francoislabuschagne6769]

MT500 ?

[@glen3509]

Thankf🤘lly we have moved on from the SH❗️TTY tapered bottom brackets🤘. I never had a spined bottom bracket; how good were they?

[@hummel_brummel]

Wow you like commenting

[@glen3509]

@hummel_brummel N😁pe HaHa

[@glen3509]

@hummel_brummel And it's only 3:39 am here l🕓l

[@MAEBikr]

28.99 :) is the Dub sir.

[@Mapdec]

Doh. 😩. Thanks 🙏

[@81antiloop]

Agree. PF using Shimano is out goto BB.

[@johncoates6039]

Still a bad idea to run a dub inside a bb86? Bearings are to small?

[@Mapdec]

Yep.

[@saltyman37]

Any experience with the Enduro BB? Just a double row bearing

[@Mapdec]

@ yes. It’s a good option

[@statom985]

Wheres that BSA vid, or is just being made ?

[@Mapdec]

It exits within other vids. Don’t think we need a special one?

[@WhiteBeardLife]

I'm building up a lightweight Orca and there's nothing lighter than a Dura Ace BB at 55g!!

[@tommays56]

Do this for Shimano 386 EVO 46 mm

[@doctorscoot]

Yep! If a manufacturer can’t get a 41mm parallel hole into their frame what chance have they got of engineering something that requires _threads_ to be bonded into their frames precisely lined up? 😅 A bottom bracket isn’t hard. It spins at what - 200 rpm maximum - with less than a kilowatt of power going through it. Shimano did the hard work for these clown brands that couldn’t make a round hole properly. And the we expect that glueing threads into carbon is the answer? Nah, gimme BB86 / PF41 all day everyday.

[@hectorkidds9840]

I agree with your first point, not your second. BBs do have a hard time, they may not be dealing with much power (but what bearing does, that's the job of a shaft or clutch) but they are dealing with a horrible loading environment, massive eccentric loads with a large lateral component, in addition to that they have to deal with shock loads and do it all in an area constantly subject to filthy water from outside the frame, and the collection of water, muck and condensation inside the frame. On top of all of that they need to cope with misalignment induced by the BB axle flexing due to the eccentric loading.

[@Mapdec]

Gluing threads is is going to end very badly. Already seeing failures. When confident I will make a video.

[@doctorscoot]

@ yeah but think about such forces in … a car. Suspension bushes, wheel bearings, drive shaft seals, all these things are subjected to similar types of forces (ok maybe not all in the one part) at a much greater level of force. Shimano’s actual BB parts are great. The hole in the frame just has to support that. That’s what I mean. Interference fit is perfectly ok to do it. And if a frame manufacturer can’t make a bloody interference fit hole to suit such puny forces (really, in the scheme of machines it’s still puny) they have no chance to make a precision thread to do the same.

[@wsbygt]

They are cheap and look great out of the box, perfect for casual riders but don´t last 5 months of training. That being said: I won´t go back after trying Hambini BB´s: +serviceable +stiff +perfect allignment +durable(probably a lifetime) -Expensive -Heavy

[@Mapdec]

Defo wouldn't call a Hambini durable. Not in wet climates anyway.

[@wsbygt]

@@Mapdec The aluminum shell itself I meant. The bearings of course they will suffer unless they are full contact sealed in harsh conditions. Cheers!

[@Ivan-oh6ug]

Actually, i blame Cannondale for the reintroduction of bonded threaded bb in carbon frames. Their BB30 design and poor execution pretty much single handedly turned most people away from pressfit. The interface between ill-fitting bb shells, bearings, and soft as shite aluminium 30mm spindles (let's hear it for Shimano 24mm steel spindles) was the cause of so much misery. Micro movements between bearing, frame, and spindle was a recipe for disaster. Failed bonded inserts for threaded bbs sure to be another issue on the horizon...

[@tbone-ip5fi]

Agreed

[@lovenottheworld5723]

If in doubt just get Ultegra. I've never been disappointed, but then again I never had that model of crank that was a disaster.

[@Mapdec]

No. The BB72 Ultegra is pointless. £10 more gets you BB92. If you need to cheap out, may as well get RS500.

[@lovenottheworld5723]

@@Mapdec I stand corrected. It's not the old days when Dura Ace cost twice as much.

[@johnd.obrien6838]

Totally clicked on this expecting a discussion of Hambini....

[@Mapdec]

Sorry to disappoint you.

[@E.T_rode_bikes_As_well]

Shimano road and mtb cup interfaces are in different height*

[@Mapdec]

Not according to Shimano technical docs. It’s in the video and in the frame fit specifications you can download from SI.shimano

[@E.T_rode_bikes_As_well]

@ Shimano Road BB cups are 1mm wider than MTB (pf & bsa)

[@chrisscott558]

Threaded bb all the way

[@johnlesoudeur3653]

If you have a metal frame.

[@marcvb3364]

The problem I've had with these BBs is that when a frame is a little bit too undersized, the plastic cups deform too much, which results in a very dragging BB. With alloy cups (not necessarily one piece or super fancy ones) I've always found the rotation to be much smoother and with less drag.

[@Mapdec]

Umm. I can’t agree with that entirely. Maybe if a hole was oval you might get excessive deformation. Forcing an alu tube into an undersized hole, that force is going to transfer to the weaker part.

[@bingbing3464]

@@Mapdecyep... sounds like he didnt press it in deep enough and then over tightened the crank arm fixing bolt causing the slight protruding cups to rub against the crank arms. With Alloy cups he can torque it down with a torque wrench thus making sure the cups have gone in deep enough.

[@marcvb3364]

@@bingbing3464 The drag was noticeable without installing the crank, I even thought I maybe pushed it in too much. It did rotate ok, but was more draggy than before installing it. I did remove and reinstall it two times with the same result before switching to alloy. Might have been the frame, who knows

[@bingbing3464]

@@marcvb3364 if that's the "draggy" you meant, the shimano bearings require a couple hundreds of Kms of run in to be smooth due to the heavy factory grease they used especially if you spin the bearings with your fingers out of the box... the thick grease makes them very durable against the elements so much that the shimano bbs actually outlasted my other bike's ceramicspeed from corrosion where the coated steel races of the ceramicspeed somehow got rusted (but fortunately they replaced it for me under warranty). and i do feel that the shimano bb does not spin as smoothly using bare fingers even if it's properly run in compared to ceramic.. but sitting on the crank it's a negligible 1-2w difference (that could even be calibration issues because they're separate powermeters of the same model). Ive had those aftermarket steel ball bearing bb that spins super smooth but they'll rust in weeks because they use oil instead of grease and are barely sealed which made them spin smoothly.

[@BobMcAllan]

Greatest? Only for BB86's with Shimano cranks.

[@Mapdec]

Correct. 👍

[@philr696]

I often fit rotor and xcadey for an alternative if customers want 24mm spindles. I'm sure there others as well.

[@bobobobobobo4597]

$100+ worth of press and puller tool or $15 bb socket.. easy choice for me. I’m too cheap for pressfit.

[@Mapdec]

Well the press is the same tool you use on your hubs, and the removal tool is super cheap. Only pros have the expensive stuff in case things get stuck. Just like tread fit. We have the good stuff to solve problems.

[@Raymond-Farts]

I'm really lucky to have a Steel bike and a Titanium bike that are threaded 68mm standard. I'm never going to buy another carbon bike so the industry can f**k with those frame standards all they want. I've been through many issues when I owned carbon bikes which is why I won't ever buy another one.

[@robbeelsas]

BB386evo is even better

[@Mapdec]

… for SRAM dub users.

[@robbeelsas]

@Mapdec well just anything that's not a 24mm axle 😅 which is basically everything other than Shimano

[@kalayoRO]

Interesting. So it was the bike manufacturer's fault all along.

[@Mapdec]

And the brand assembly plant, and the bike shop that sold it.

[@robest334]

Bring back BSA. Manufacturers are forced to properly machine the shell.

[@Mapdec]

If only that were true. The only difference is that more bike shops have the tools

[@carl90210]

I have come across high street mechanics down south who have no clue about using primer and retaining compound when installing these in carbon frames.

[@Mapdec]

You shouldn’t need to. They fit naked. No grease or retaining compound. Assuming frame is correct.