Small Diameter Back-Leaning Tree

These videos cover specific cutting techniques, and are supplementary material for our chainsaw safety course. They are not a comprehensive explanation of when to use the cuts, the potential hazards, or the basics of saw use.
This felling technique is used on small diameter trees that are back leaning, and allows you to use a wedge to force the tree over. By boring through the mouth of the notch, there is enough room to place a wedge, which then gives you options for felling in the tree in multiple directions.

[@joshuaneuman9133]

I appreciate diving right into what you are doing and not talking for 45 mins.

[@rodgerm7247]

+1!

[@bennyblanko3]

Great video! I've seen this numerous times before - but I love how short and clear this video is, and the cutting is great too. I'm going to try this today.

[@bennyblanko3]

I might add, last time I tried it I was too close to the wedges, and gave one a little haircut! Heh heh ...

[@nitrampd]

Regardless of what anyone says, thinks, or does otherwise, it’s a pretty interesting cut.

[@jaroslavcharvat5171]

Great, thanks. One of the best formats available!

[@robertmaclean9695]

This is a great cut. Really helps put white birch within easy reach on my extraction trail.

[@yusef54321]

Back cut first for sure! Putting the face cut in just allows it to set back more

[@nicolasroselli6952]

Outstanding demo.

[@TheHonestPeanut]

Well I learned something today. Great instructional.

[@Saw_Squatch]

I hope to see more coming from this channel!

[@ForestApps]

Great Job!

[@splitpin1764]

For a hard back leaning small tree, I prefer Buckin Billy Rays method. Back cut first, set your wedge then do a face cut. More hinge wood and room after setting your first wedge a little to one side, to double up on a second set of wedges if a single can't get the tree moving. Buckin has a lifetime of real world felling experience and 323k subscribers

[@dougreid2351]

Did you miss the part where MW prescribes this for small diameter trees?

[@whiskey4553]

@@dougreid2351 small diameter could still be relatively tall depending on the tree which increases leverage on the hinge and you'd want that full hinge support.

[@zavensaroyan5388]

Excellent easy to follow video. Thank you.

[@dougreid2351]

Wow, just, simply, WOW!

[@Agustin-jo8mv]

That was cool! I will use this next time!

[@user-xi3sk5ko9p]

This is new for me! Thank you)

[@dpm1964]

Wow that was cool! And spot on!

[@TradBowEd]

Great video! Thanks

[@thomasdavenport508]

Cool. Last time I did a little tree like that, it was a little bit bigger but my wedge bottomed out and flew out of the back cut and the tree started coming back at me. Haha I thought it would go before the wedge bottomed out. But I'm a cool professional so I picked up the wedge and put it back in the cut and pushed the tree over with a li'l grunt force. Hehe Good idea robot man! You cut like a robot. All or nothin! Full throttle or bust!

[@k1945k1]

Small trees often damage plastic. This method is new and interesting. It seems like a way to solve my problems. It's a good video.

[@paulnicholas00]

Wow great video

[@TheJonsberg]

Exxxxxellent 👍 Learned something new from your video, Blessings in Christ

[@fzym4117]

outstanding skill..tq for sharing

[@LiveFreeOrRIP]

Well done but like others said a back cut first with a wedge and then put a nice face would be my way but this is also obviously effective.

[@davidlund3420]

Great job, but lets warn people that center bore can go sideways if you are not careful!

[@ravenshield7823]

Very true, did it today, it didn't matter so I was testing how much an aspen can take, which happens to be very little, super brittle light and snappy and knowing your trees is more important than the numbers.. A white oak can take a lot of side lean with little hinge but I'm not suggesting pushing your luck, but I do recommend satisfying some curiosity as long as there is no consequence. My consequence was a little more work for the trade off of valuable information, YMMV. I guess my only suggestion would be to leave a bit more or thicker hinge if you are going to bore the face cut, also not just the fact that you could loose it on a side leaner but if you drive the wedge too hard or fast you can pop the tree straight up breaking the hinge. But I also sympathize with anyone cutting a ton of smaller trees like this where you can't get a wedge in otherwise. In my case with what I learned today, I'm gonna do the rest with a throw line and be happy with that, Aspen cannot be trusted.

[@TheToolnut]

@@ravenshield7823 A full comp chain is best for bore cuts. When bore cutting the gob stay about and inch above the apex of the top and bottom cuts, 👍🪓🌲🇮🇪

[@mattetor6726]

Thank you!

[@rexrose7489]

How big of a trunk can I do with this method?

[@justinhennessee881]

Pretty clever

[@Physicsnerd1]

Vedi intaresting!

[@ovlog6771]

Thợ cưa cây rất giỏi tuyệt vời 👍👍❤❤🤝🤝

[@triplez4672]

Wish I saw this about a month earlier

[@tdmmcl1532]

i understand the logic of this cut method for back leaning trees. but I really don't think the tree example in this video is the best profile that really allows someone to appreciate what it can do with truly "back leaning" trees. There was barely a lean at all to it. It make it difficult to accept that a standard front and back cut would have been a more safe and efficient cut. (besides saving lots of time and excessive wear on the sprocket head and chain!)... maybe the point would best be driven home with a sharply leaning tree of a more substantial size? A wedge on a 8 inch tree? huH/??? sounds like some arbitrary union rule.

[@theleepster4669]

Small tree did not really need a bore cut, but good work

[@timbermen11]

You didn’t yell timber….

[@brianquigley7336]

Just make the back cut first, set yer wedge, make undercut, don't cut off yer holding wood, drive it over. Much faster than yer nimrod method. PNW timber cutter, 41 years.

[@johnkomosa4089]

Ah ha.😄, I know there would be a comment in here from the old timers. Thanks for your yrs of service sir. Getting them on the ground safely.

[@thomasdavenport508]

The problem on piss ant trees like this sir, the wedge bottoms out. So you either got to cut or break a wedge or make somewhere for it to go ya see? Or have a tiny @ss 4" long wedge in your possibles. Which those are handy sometimes too in the tree tops when you want to get some work done. I got some little wedges for such things now.

[@javierjavier4177]

Typical west coast guy. You know nothing. If you make the back cut first you totally throw off the differential between the undercut and hinge point of the wedge hole. Macphail guys are timber kings. (PS. GO BELFAST BULLDOGS)

[@IndianaDoug]

My question is, how am I supposed to use that method with my 80/90cc felling saw and 32” bar? I don’t typically bring a small saw in the woods to drop trees. Is it just me?

[@brianquigley7336]

@@IndianaDoug I do it all the time. Bar length doesn't matter.