SMART FOR TWO TIMING CHAIN ASSEMBLEY 3cylinder 12valve 1.0MHD 71BHP 2012

This is how i set up camshaft chain timing and tensioner hopefully in the correct position but if you know different please comment, I struggled to find any easy to follow clear and concise instructions with marks. Always best to record and mark chain before removing on disassembly not so easy if parts are new. I'm thinking the top mark on the crankshaft is possibly vertical with the engine and the crank flat sides also vertical please feel free to comment as this will help us all get it correct first time, as always rotate the engine at least 3 revolutions clockwise to confirm no valve contact. after 2 rotation the chain wont immediately line up with the blue links on the dots as you would have expected on older engines with the chain being longer. The camshafts will line up with the horizontal line markings.

[@JANSENGUINHA]

thank you for sharing this knowledge, the only one on you tube to detail the timing of the chain well. your video helped me a lot here in brazil. thanks👍

[@MrDazzaman1]

Awesome video! Very clear and informative. Hopefully I'll never need to do that but having this video saved would make the job a lot easier. Thank you for taking the time to video your great work.

[@calvinhudson327]

Thanks for the positive feedback I googled and read articles but still struggled to find timing setup info elsewhere.

[@Melissa-fg3mr]

Thanks so much for posting this. I use the AllData online shop manual, which is usually pretty good, but the two dots at the crankshaft threw me. Putting this back together after a blown head gasket. I spent a few years working on cars, and twenty or so on aircraft, but never anything as difficult as this car. Not much thought given to ease of maintenance.

[@calvinhudson327]

Hi Melissa, thanks for your positive comment, i to have used AllData and found its a good source of info for settings, torque sequences and Servicing but for this 451 engine it was just not clear on how to set the timing marks and with the cylinders being set at 120 degres it made it all the more awkward compared to the old 180 degree engines.

[@billsnively2525]

Couldn't agree more with Melissa. AllData was very vague on this and Calvin's video made the process clear and easy. Many thanks for this video and advice, made the installation easy peasy!!

[@victoradorno6047]

Muy buen video ,gracias por tomar tu tiempo para hacerlo ,Saludos desde Puerto Rico

[@petersimms4982]

Quite an impressive trimming chain

[@davidnajera8798]

Nice well explain 👍👍👍

[@virnan]

How I wish that someone on KZbin would post a video detailing how to set the timing for a Smart 450 CDI. There is no information on this particular model unfortunately.

[@teamfutut]

Hello. Great video! I just bought a 451 brabus and i want to change the timing because i think it has never been done. So i hawe a question for you. Actually more... Can i swap the chain, friction pads and tensioner with the engine in place? I don' hawe to take the oil sump off? The two "water holes" in the timing cover, are sealed with o rings? Thank you!

[@calvinhudson327]

In answer to your question, Yes it is possible but a pig of a job with the engine in the car, you will need to raise the body off of the engine frame, There are 4 main bolts this will then allow you to remove the rocker cover and front Cam-chain cover. The reason its easier with the engine out is that the 2 seals mentioned (for water pump and one for oil tend to move about on assembly. So if you insisted on changing the chain with the car engine in situ, without going into too much detail - Undo the 2 rear main Engine frame bolts (near the exhaust), Loosen the front Main frame bolts (near the front of the rear wheels)enough to lower down ( the handbrake may also need disconnecting from the Engine frame as it will become tight (that's a weird ratchet thing), You will need to remove the 3 coil packs and wiring to one side, Crank case breather if i recall, Then remove rocker cover and Sump, Then alternator and tensioner, Now the Front Chain cover can be removed. There will be obstacles along the way with the engine in like trying to remove the cover as if i recall the shocker is in the way, Fuel pipe will be tight and Water radiator pipes in the way, Easier to lower and remove the engine on frame with wheels, It does involve disconnecting brake pipes and ABS cables all the wiring which is self explanatory but lots of it, Fuel pipe, Rad pipes, Handbrake cable. but you will be able to change the clutch if needed and inspect everything, Also be confident that you have done the job well i may have forgotten some things that need disconnecting. Oh and invest in a Hose Clamp Pliers tool to disconnect the rad pipes if you remove the engine

[@calvinhudson327]

Sorry, so to clarify on your question the Cam top cover removed you can also see the timing marks then, Front Cover (may need to remove pump from cover to do this or shocker leg, spring etc. due to room needed to get beyond Crankshaft also Crank pulley.) Sump could in theory stay put. but its those Damn rubber seals, you don't want water in the oil or visa versa. Incidentally I read somewhere, you can expect to get 200,000 miles without a rebuild.

[@MrHandyDaddy]

@@calvinhudson327responding if it helps someone in the future. Your video is going to help me hopefully. Ac lines don’t need to be removed whole ac unit can be removing via 3 holding bolts

[@markbonder8087]

Great video¡¡ DO have the torque settings of the crankshaft?

[@calvinhudson327]

This is what i found but please check elsewhere also as i would hate to give wrong advice - maybe if someone has latest Alldata ? Bolt for Crankshaft bearing Cap Engine 132.9 BA03.20-P-1001-01G Stage 1 Nm - 30 Stage 2 - 60 degrees Bolt connecting Rod bearing cap to connecting rod Engine 132.9 BA03.10-P-1001-01K Stage 1 Nm - 15 Stage 2 - 90 degrees

[@4raymartinez4]

I have a 2011 smart fortwo need the head cylinder torque specs and what sequence in torque with the bolts first to last sequence.

[@calvinhudson327]

This is what i found - please do your own research as well though as i would hate to give you the wrong info. Start from the middle top bottom then work outwards diagonally top right bottom left, top left bottom right, until you reach the outside Engine 132.9 160.910 160.920 160.921 160.922 160.923 Stage 1 Nm 25 21 21 21 21 21 Stage 2 Deg 90 90 90 90 90 90 Stage 3 Deg 90 90 90 90 90 90 Stage 4 Deg - 10 10 10 10 10 Bolts Nm - - 27 27 27 27 cylinder head to Timing case cover CAMSHAFT Number Designation Engine 132.9 BA05.20-P-1001-01M Bolt, camshaft bearing bridge to cylinder head Nm 20 BA05.20-P-1002-01M Bolt connecting camshaft bearing cap to cylinder head Nm 11

[@petersimms4982]

Do you do smart repairs?

[@calvinhudson327]

Hi, No mate, I didn't particularly want to do this one but i brought it faulty and fixed it.

[@miekk]

Most informative video available, Thanks. I followed your video exactly. My car would start and run for about 7-8 seconds then settle down to idle and stutter and misfire. I couldn't figure it out and took it to an import shop. They hooked it up to the Mercedes software and said my timing was off by 9 degrees and suspected I was off a tooth. I opened it all back up again and it matches exactly where you put it. One tooth on the intake cam is about 8 degrees.... Did yours run correctly?