Smart WIFI switch for heavy loads use with Alexa,Siri or it's own app,ideal for immersion heater

[@davidallantaylor]

Great review Tom, exactly what I was looking to buy at weekend. We too have an ultra old and reliable Baxi wall mount non combi boiler. 1985 vintage, no problems and easy fix. My plumber, like you doesn’t recommend replacement til it finally breaks as most of his work is fixing modern combi boilers!

[@TomsManShed]

Hi David...yes 35 years old and the only parts it's had are 2 thermocouples....entire system has only had 2 pumps and 2 synchron motors in the motorised valves and some ballcocks ....obviously over the years I have fitted new rads and TRV's etc when decorating rooms... BUT total cost of spares has been less than £100 to me Obviously I have done it all myself so no labour costs but even so TOTAL cost over 35 years will be less than 3 high efficiency combis inc gas used as expected life of a new boiler is 10- 15 years...I would be on my 3rd one now!...plus a few fans/circuit boards/diverter valves etc. It annoys me how folk go on about the effect on the environment of older boilers but they don't take into account the full picture of all the pollution caused by the vehicles going out to repair them/the manufacturing/remanufacting of them and of parts especially PCB's etc etc As you will have gathered I love my gadgets but when it comes to my CH give me my existing one any day....someday I will have to replace it but till then it keeps on going and with 42 years repairing all sorts inc combis I know which are the most reliable :)

[@ianwm]

Very useful review apnd guide. I am about to do an identical install on our immersion heater. To resolve the mismatch of size ob switch plate and back box I cut down a couple of swish curtain rail mounting blocks super glued to the mounting posts. Removes any danger of cracking the circuit board if the screws are over tightened. Looking forward to using more solar and less gas.

[@TomsManShed]

Thanks for that Ian...good idea re mounting posts.....yes wish I had gone solar a few years back.....but as with all things it would great to have a crystal ball :)

[@josephjohn2226]

Thank you

[@TomsManShed]

You're welcome

[@robbie3252]

Great Idea and Top Video Tom cheers from Australia

[@TomsManShed]

Thanks Robbie :)

[@jeffcartwright7270]

Hi Tom - Another great video, thanks !. Question :- Are you using a similar "Sonoff" device with the eWeLink "App" to enable you to use the same "Off - Peak" cheap tariff to charge your MG ZS EV ?. I have one connected to my dumb Rolec wall box to charge my ZS EV. Has worked fine for 12 months now.

[@TomsManShed]

Hi Jeff Thanks for that...no I use an Ohme home charger that charges at 6/7 Kw ...I just set the Ohme to only charge when the leccy is below a certain price which suits me.

[@munkyjunkie1]

Great video. So helpful

[@TomsManShed]

Thanks for that glad it helped...I can confirm as well that it is still working fine and gets used regularly :)

[@wizardu-jz2pe]

Hi Tom, thanks for the detailed review. Is the device still working ok? Just seen few reviews on amazon where they have burnt out. Will be using this for immersion as just switched to intelligent Octopus go.

[@TomsManShed]

Hi wizard...thanks for the kind words....yes it is still working fine and shows no signs of overheating I use it regularly....I think if you use heavy guage cable to and from it and use ferrules if it's stranded flex as shown you shouldn't have a problem

[@wizardu-jz2pe]

Thanks Tom, I noticed you have a fused isolator, did you use 2.5mm twin and earth to connect to the new smart switch from the fused isolator and existing flex cable from immersion to smart switch? I was reading elsewhere where some people cut the flex and put the smart switch in the middle. Would this be ok? Also my current switch is a 20A DP not a fused like yours. Will that have any impact?

[@TomsManShed]

Hi Wizard...yes the fused switch was the original switch to the immersion from years ago so I just left in in place (fed from original cable which seems to be 2.5mm ) I then used a short piece of 2.5mm T&E to the new wifi switch and then the original flex (which again is hefty stuff) from the new switch to the immersion. Yes you could cut the flex an put the switch in the middle as long as all the cable/flex used is capable of the load (which on my immersion I think is 2.5kw)...so nothing like the size of cable req for say a shower which would be more than double (more like triple) the load....but the thicker the better....overkill on the wiring size is better than undersizing.. Your 20A DP switch will handle the load easily but its always nice (IMHO) to have an extra fuse before the expensive wifi switch even though it will be protected by the breaker at the main consumer unit ....if it was me I would swap your 20A DP switch to a fused version....the 13amp fuse in mine is fine for my immersion... 2.5kw divided by 220v is only 11.5 amp. Hope this helps.

[@joetheblowjoetheblowdave968]

Tom lets face it your the man 👍 Brian..

[@TomsManShed]

Stop it Brian you will have me blushing :)

[@paullewis1637]

Fair comment, I did take a swing at that, it’s because my smart meter tells me in using 7 kw sometimes but that includes a 3.8 kw storage heater I suppose. Got a bit mixed up there sorry. Nevertheless I’m sticking with my contractor which is rated at 30 amps just to be sure. Apologies for the confusion and thanks.

[@ddazzler1]

Hi Tom. Great video. Just wondering if this is still going strong? Was thinking about installing one but they seem a bit of the cheap side which is a worry. Also I'm installing this in the kitchen as we have two switches... One in the kitchen which then gives power to the second (bath / sink) switch which is under the stairs... Would this switch work do you think?

[@TomsManShed]

Hi dazzler...thanks for the kind words....yes the switch is still working fine....it's been totally reliable and the app works great....it's not used every day but at least 2 or 3 times a week so it's had loads of use Yes I can't see any probs with what you suggest...as long as the wiring between the kitchen and under the stairs is in good condition etc...the main thing is making sure all wires and interim switches are capable of carrying a 3kw load...also use ferrules as shown in video if poss The switch stays cool while in use and shows no sign of distress so like I say ...so far so good

[@ddazzler1]

​@@TomsManShedthanks Tom. Is there an earth terminal in the switch or will I just earth it to the back box?

[@TomsManShed]

@@ddazzler1 Hi dazzler...sorry for the delay just noticed this (youtube messages me when there is a comment but not when but not when its a reply to a reply for some reason) No there is no earth terminal on the switch itself (shown at 04:11) just in the back box (shown at 10:04)

[@paullewis1637]

Very handy, when do they publish the day ahead prices and how do you get them

[@TomsManShed]

When I did this vid ( 2years ago) I was on a tariff called Octopus Agile... ..they published figures a day ahead (you ask when...like I say it was the day ahead...not sure what exact time it was...I presume midnight?) ...that has now finished ...you would have to check the tariff you are on with your provider.

[@paullewis1637]

I have installed a similar tactic but I am using a 40 amp contractor run off a timer switch. Not so keen on putting 39 amps through an Alexa switch for long oeriods

[@TomsManShed]

see reply to other comment

[@HemanshuPatel0104]

Hi Tom - helpful video... question if I may... why did you choose to keep the existing spur as an isolation for the new one? In theory could you replace it outright or is there a reason to keep it?

[@TomsManShed]

Hi Hemanshu...thanks for that.....no you could I suppose replace the fused spare with the switch itself....it's just that since it was there it seemed a shame not to keep it ....it gives another fuse in the supply (although if any fault developed it would probably trip out quicker at the main box) and may come in handy if I have to isolate the smart switch for working in it.....don't know regulation wise but it seems better to me that each appliance has its own fuse and without it the immersion heater wouldn't be separately fused

[@williamread5652]

Has some reviews on Amazon that are less than ideal. Some safety concerns especially, and since I will be using something like this to turn my heating on and off while I’m away for a few months, I just can’t take the risk!

[@TomsManShed]

Hi William.. obviously the choice is yours...I can only say that it continues to work fine for me after many many times I have used it ...I haven't read the reviews and can't say if they are due to faulty units or installation but like I say on mine with the correct size cabling and using ferrules etc it shows no sign of distress

[@paullewis1637]

Sorry meant 30 amps not 39

[@TomsManShed]

Hi Paul...am not sure where you are getting your figures from but this switch is controlling an immersion heater that is 3KW max which is what it is rated at. That means it has a current draw of 12.5 amps (3000W divided by 240V) ....a domestic kettle can also be 3kw....before this switch is a fused spur with a normal 13A fuse in it....this would immediately blow with anything drawing 30A For your figure of 30 amps the draw of the appliance would have to be 7.2kw! ....WAY TOO MUCH for this switch. Anything drawing that much power...like a shower or my EV charge point would require it's own supply and fuse ...outside the scope of the switch in this vid.

[@gn2715]

Hi Tom, Thank you very much for a very detailed review. I am planning to use this device with a vented hot water tank, to control switching schedules of a 3kW immersion heater element connected to Economy 7 supply. Based on historical data, I can see that during winter season when the incomming cold water temperature is very low, the heater needs to run for as much as 3 hours before the thermostat cuts it off. With the digital timer currently installed, I have set is up for 2 hours for Mon-Sat, and 3 hours for Sun (to ensure that legionella bacteria growth is effectively inhibited, I wish this could have been done every two weeks but alas). Do you think this device can safely sustain a 3kW load continuously for 3 hours without causing a burnout? Have you tried using it for similar durations and similar continuous load?

[@TomsManShed]

Hi GN...wow it must be a big cylinder if it takes 3 hours to heat with a 3kw immersion heater......mine heats my standard 36"x18" in about 1.5 hours stone cold to really hot....I like my bath full to brin and very hot. So that's the max time I really put it on for.....I have forgotten and left it on for 2 hours or so but it will have shut off on the stat by then. However there has been no over heating and no signs of distress. I would suggest trying one from Amazon and monitoring it carefully under a high load for 3 hours and if it isn't as expected return it as Amazon have a great return service

[@wll6777]

Hi,GN. How’s it going ? Would you recommend to buy ?

[@gn2715]

Well, I finally decided to use Sonoff Powr3 based on its power rating. It's working absolutely fine and can be controlled with a mobile app.

[@chrishilbilly]

I have a back boiler they keep telling me to replace. I tell them to do one.

[@TomsManShed]

Hi Chris......yes before I retired in 2017 I had 42 years as a gas engineer and serviced/repaired literally hundreds of Baxi Bermuda back boilers.....they were/are one of the most reliable gas appliances ever. Ok not as efficient as a modern combi boiler but a million times more reliable and long lived.....what you save on your gas bills with a moder boiler you pay for in repairs and maintenance. Having said that I now don't use my Baxi wall mounted boiler that I installed in 1986 (still 100% functional ) as it's cheaper to use the Immersion heater on cheap rate electric on my octopus tariff for hot water

[@chrishilbilly]

@TomsManShed I worked out the savings for me and my wife it would take me 10 years to get the money back after altering the central heating extra and this thing with regular service works like a dream

[@TomsManShed]

@@chrishilbilly yes and after 10 years your combi would be due for renewal ....plus all the circuit boards/thermistors/fans/diaphragms etc etc / it might need in its life :)

[@peterwagstaff2715]

Could ask Alexander to switch off after 30min

[@TomsManShed]

Hi Peter....if you mean "Alexa" then yes you can say that ...or any amount of time...and it works....you can also set it manually from the app