SOFT METAL! Engine Damage! Subaru Legacy Outback AWD 2.5 DOHC EJ25

After MONTHS of obstacles this EJ25 Subaru Engine is finally ready to go back in the 1999 Legacy Outback AWD. It came in with a coolant leak and oil leak in part 1, we found a leaking water pump. During service we found a seized water pump bolt which broke off during removal. After spending hours attempting a failed extraction in part 2, I gave up and ordered a salvage engine to replace it with. The engine was lost in Virginia during the Yellow Freight trucking company shut down, never to be seen again. Unable to locate a suitable replacement, attempts were restarted to extract the damaged bolt AND stud extractors that broke off in the bolt. In part 3, with the engine on the bench, we were finally able to remove the bolt, but the engine was damaged at the bolt hole and the threads were lost during extraction. During part 4 the block was drilled out and a thread insert called a time-sert was installed. Victory was short lived because immediately after, during the timing belt assembly, the belt tensioner bolt stripped out and pulled the threads. Another time-sert was installed and the engine is finally ready to be installed.
Part 1 This is how it started! Customer States: Everything Leaking! Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5 AWD • Oil and Coolant Loss! ... TY
This video is Part 2 Drove IN Pushed Out! Damaged during Repair! Subaru Outback Legacy 2.2 2.5 @I_Do_Cars • Drove IN Pushed Out! D...
Part 3 Extracting the broken bolt! Welding Explosion! Intense Bolt Extraction! Will it FAIL? Subaru Outback 2.2 2.5 • Welding Explosion! Int...
Part 4 Damaged Block Threads! Subaru Outback Legacy 2.2 2.5 Hurricane Idalia • Damaged Engine Block T...
Part 5 Engine Damage AGAIN! Subaru Legacy Outback 2.2 2.5 EJ25 • Engine Damage AGAIN! S...
SHORT Welding Explosion! Intense Bolt Extraction! Will it FAIL? Subaru Outback 2.2 2.5 • Welding Explosion! Int...
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to

[@nkgagne]

9:35 a technique I was taught when tapping was to advance the tap a couple of turns, back it out a half-turn to clear the chips from the cutting edges, and repeat until fully tapped.

[@mikejacob3536]

Perfect form when tapping hard materials, like steel. This engine is apparently made of aged cheddar. Ray could have carved threads in it with his house key...

[@Heinrich_STG44]

Yeah. Exactly the technique you're supposed to use. 👍🏻

[@smittysbuilds]

m10 is large enough and he is tapping slow enough that it will move the chips naturally. on harder metal yes, but it is a good habit to do all around. but i don't think he fully tapped it, which is why it didn't want to seat fully. it was hitting the lower tapper end of the threaded area from the tap.

[@rumleyrum5839]

Not fully tapped all the way down is what I noticed as well.

[@charliefox7206]

@@mikejacob3536 or a... wait for it... a cheese grater. 🦊

[@craigfin3222]

My general rule of thumb is never use power tools when putting (or taking out) steel bolts into aluminum. If the tool is working too fast, it can pull the threads. If it is too powerful, it can rip them. You have to remember that the steel bolt will win every time when it comes to aluminum.

[@brakeme1]

That’s exactly why it happened 👍🏼

[@Sjessee58]

I worked in the Honda factory. Hand start the bolt and tighten with a impact.

[@dmacarthur5356]

Yeah I am overly cautious fastening and loosening anything on my block. Hand tools only for me.

[@ginog5037]

Ray too dumb and lazy to figure that out, especially with sparkplugs...

[@TheCorpsehatch]

Years ago when I was at work it was sunny in the morning. Some time after lunch it got cloudy and then a monsoon started. Boss goes, "Damn, it is really coming down." Twenty minutes later we see him run as fast as he could out the back door. He left the top down on his convertible.

[@joemuncie9187]

Everyone does that at least once

[@DonsJunkmail-vg1wt]

😁😁😁

[@thomasmleahy6218]

Went out to open a door to drain the cabin area.

[@hdfxrs9121]

That's why I don't bother putting the drain plugs in the floor of my Jeep.

[@user-hv9op8ju3t]

Should have used grease on the tap to catch the shavings and use thread sealant on the tensioner bolt or you will have a coolant leak

[@Rodogg7787]

I have had so many issues with the timing in my suburu, had it completely redone twice! Bc the first guy said he knew what he was doing, until time to actually do the work! So I then paid to have it done by a professional! Should have done that in the first place! Would have saved a good bit of $ & lots of headaches!

[@Travis141123]

I was thinking that may be a wet hole, but then again I have not watched the whole series.

[@dangold9556]

You’d think after stripping two bolts on an aluminum block maybe a torque wrench would be a good idea!

[@vogel2280]

torque wrenches don't prevent studs from breaking when loosening nuts or when you predecessor has crosstrreaded bolts.

[@chrissmithz314]

I said this in the last video, but I have to stand up for Subaru here. There's a reason why service data tells you to remove the tensioner last, after the belt has been removed. If you remove the tensioner first like ray did, when it is under an extreme amount of tension, you will strip the bolt threads out when removing it. I like Ray so I don't want to sound like a hater, but all the subaru bashing comments in these videos bother me.

[@chrism5433]

I'm sure that if all previous work that was done properly you shouldn't have issues with bolts stripping out ,?cheers🍺

[@devinangola3458]

Yeah , stripped out threads in the block just from removing the bolts….🙄

[@chrissmithz314]

​@@devinangola3458 This is the kind of thing that might be hard to understand without experience, but yes. If you have something putting pressure on that steel bolt, like a timing belt tensioner, as you are trying to remove it from aluminum, you can easily strip the aluminum threads out. Anyone who has tried to remove a bolt that has side to side or up/down tension on it as you were trying to remove it should understand this, as the bolts don't thread out as easily in those situations.

[@devinangola3458]

@@chrissmithz314 boy that was very condescending, I’ve worked with aluminum blocks on cars and cycles, never have I had a block thread strip out from just taking out the bolts. Had them break off because of two different bimetallics causing corrosion in the threads. Not to sure what the bolts are made of but corrosion and constant rotation on a pulley can wear out the threads OR they were over torqued from a previous repair. Anywho, dialectic grease must be added to stop that corrosion or slow it down. Looks like a cheap aluminum block to me, and sketchy manufacturing. But please school me on my mistakes…

[@chrissmithz314]

@@devinangola3458 I wasn't trying to sound or act condescending at all, I apologize that I came off that way. There's really not much else for me to say. Removing a bolt that's holding in a timing belt tensioner, when that tensioner is still applying tension, is just different from normally removing a bolt. It's like there's a lot of weight hanging down from the bolt, or pulling up on the bolt, causing it to drag and pull the threads out as it comes out.

[@user-rf9ob6cn1l]

You missed one feature of the time-sert. The insert is not treaded all the way to the bottom. This is done for a reason. When the installation tool is running the insert in, it stops at the unfinished treads of the insert providing enough friction to bottom out the insert into the counter sink that was cut. Once bottomed out, and the insert is seated, you keep turning the installation tool. This does two things. It finishes the threads at the bottom of the insert and expands the bottom of the insert to lock it in place. You needed an insert that was about 3/16 - 1/4 inch shorter and all would have went well on the first try (could have run the counter sink tool in a little further).

[@diederikvandedijk]

I did not expect you to screw up that time-sert like that and accepting the fix as a result.

[@DavidMitchell-zw7br]

The installation tool expands the insert helping to lock it in. We use these all the time at work. I’m guessing you didn’t run the tap deep enough past the lead thread of it.

[@cecilkorik]

I think you're probably right, however it may have been the right decision in this case, as I'd rather have to grind off some of the helicoil and compromise it than risk punching through the back of that hole into the block that he has already tried and failed to replace, it seems unlikely to me that the helicoil is going to come loose on its own anyway given how that block seems to love permanently welding fasteners to itself. Give it a few days and you'll have to drill out the whole helicoil if you want to take it apart again.

[@deckgun31]

I love finding your videos in my YT feed. You (and the Wife Unit) are both so positive, and so enjoyable to watch. If I'm not learning something, I'm enjoying the content you folks create. It's such a breath of fresh air from all of the "other" content available to be viewed. Thank you both for all you do to make this existence a little more enjoyable, and always, a little more fun!😊

[@ccmoos]

Yes amazing positive attitude. I love wrenching on my vehicle's. But this one would have made me say swear words, that is for sure

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

Don't forget that Troy is an important part of the shop!!

[@therealmccoy33]

Well Said!! 👍👍

[@Rekuzan]

Messing with the rookie, LMAFO!!! 🤣🤣🤣 Is he still looking for that bottle of blinker fluid, ooooor...

[@binyamj]

I drove through Florida last year. The rain was pretty heavy before getting into Miami, and one of my windshield wipers flew off! I see rain constantly, but not Florida rain. I replaced it and kept going…then the other one flew off haha.

[@jeffreycler495]

Some advice from an old-timer. Before you reinstall steel bolts into aluminum alloy chase your treads.Put some light oil on a tap cleans out the corrosion. Also some anti -seize on the bolts. To avoid coolant leaking from water jacket thread sealer on bolts.

[@turner0224]

Good advice, I would also suggest possibly some grease on his tapping tool to capture shavings created by the tap. Has saved my butt several times. Too old now to be fiddling with screw ups self inflicted. Having done this crap for over 50 years I’m tired of fixing my own stuff ha ha .

[@jeffreycler495]

@@turner0224 I'm 71 still working on old motorcycles. Stripped threads a common occurrence.

[@turner0224]

@@jeffreycler495 Remember in the late sixties and early seventies all side covers had Philips head screws that stripped out all the time. That’s when I bought my first impact

[@johnhhinton5473]

@@turner0224 Yep, First choice...

[@hdfxrs9121]

@@turner0224 My early '70's Hondas had those. First thing I did was replace those bolts with hex heads or Allen cap screws.

[@user-jc4zp9zx7s]

That engine is a nightmare, but maybe you should not use anymore power tools to put it back together.😮

[@craigcraigster4999]

And include torque wrenches as part of the repertoire.

[@LzyD2112]

Pretty soon we're gonna be treated to seeing this scooby drive out of the workshop. A lot of us waiting patiently for that day Ray :), Also don't read to much into some of the comments below, we all think you've done a great job with this engine. I would be happy if it was my car you where working on.

[@ThePhoenix198]

I'm running a book on whether it then throws a con-rod through the side or has the timing belt fail. Has he checked the engine serial number? Does it end in 666?

[@craigcraigster4999]

"I'm not a machinist." Ray's self-deprecating video commentary for the win! 🏆

[@Upracefan]

Use 2 nuts in place of the 2nd nutsert. Left hand drill bit to remove the broken nutsert. Never turn an engine backwards against a timing belt or chain adjuster.

[@patrickgoodwin3085]

Subaru- the engine that keeps on giving! At least now it is fixed and ready to live on. Love how meticulous you are to make sure everything is as it should be.

[@2pugman]

I hope that's a 5K repair !

[@harbosonius]

Gawd I wish it would rain in Central Texas. It's been forever.

[@AJwoodway]

Next week hopefully.

[@helenault7452]

I've only hit about the halfway point in the video, and I have comments. First, Timeserts have three lands of thread at the tip of the insert that are not fully formed until the installation tool rotates through them to swedge them in place, locking the insert into the hole in the process. That's why it's so important to make sure the countersink for the flange is properly bored. Taking off the excess shoulder is a perfectly good solution when it doesn't quite fully go flush or below the deck. Second, I'm surprised that Subaru used a 10x1.25 thread in the aluminum casting. My experience has been that coarse threads hold better than fine threads in aluminum, and in fact that's borne out by the standard practice in the aviation industry. Both Lycoming and Continental routinely use studs with a coarse thread to go into the block or head, and a fine thread for the end that gets the nut. When I heard that the Timesert kit was 10x1.25, I was half afraid that the wrong kit had been ordered. But it was right, and my expectation is that this is going to be a kit that will get used again; I'd give that tensioner bolt no better than a 50/50 chance of torquing down without pulling the threads the third time it has to go in. (Do not even get me started about Daimler's angled head bolts on their aluminum-block V8s.) But with the Timesert in place, I'd be fully confident that this repair will outlast the vehicle.

[@OldBastardOnaHarley]

When you was using the TimeSert driver to install the threaded insert, I couldn't figure out why there was not some kind of stop shoulder on the tool to keep the installer from walking down the threads of the insert. A couple of jam nuts tightened against each other would be perfect for that. They'll perfectly seat the insert all the way into the counterbore, then just break the jam nuts apart with a couple of wrenches and walk the installer out of the fully seated insert. BEFORE the Locktite dries!

[@mineown1861]

Just let troy know , the next time you ask him if he checked your windows during a deluge , the proper response is , yes and they're all wide open .

[@Kellen6795]

"I don't like you" 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Oh Troy... Getting massively trolled by Ray

[@user-pq1tb8zx7e]

Now I understand why all the Subaru people I grew up with had three or four of them sitting around.

[@ronsloan7662]

Hey Ray, that engine was fighting you every step of the way. Happy to see you win the battle. Hopefully it goes back in easily and runs smoothly😊. Cheers!

[@neilbrown5657]

That part is not part of the block It's bolts to the block and part available from subarun

[@kg4gav]

Agree, I don't understand why he didnt just replace the bracket. They are less than $40 retail...much cheaper than the timesert kit!

[@quarrydesigns]

So what’s up with the Tahoe? 0:51

[@DonsJunkmail-vg1wt]

He's trying to make up for the snotta job( so nada job )

[@boelensds]

Put air pressure behind to prevent chips from falling to inside before starting. Else chips running around in coolant system.🤔🔧

[@markscott9133]

Ray the tip of the tap is tapered so you have to send the tap at least half an inch deeper than the hole to get the full thread size to the bottom of the hole. The insert could not go as deep as you needed due to the taper at the tip of the tap. Next time Tap deeper and the insert will fully seat.

[@petergondolier4088]

Hey Ray, some obvious problems with your time sert technique. On blind holes its critical to know the max drilling depth. Small tip for you when drilling out the shoulder depth. To make sure the depth is correct, after drilling the step, insert the timesert backwards (lip into the hole0, you can easily see if the depth is correct or not. You may have been able to remove the broken timesert by installing a bolt with Loctite 262 or 271, let dry, then unscrew the bolt, the sert will come with it.

[@Heinrich_STG44]

Good tips. I think it'll be alright but I didn't care much for him leaving a broken time cert in the block.

[@wb6anp]

Also if you look close, he didn't tap the hole deep enough, you can see where the threads ended.

[@buildmox]

this typ of insert expands on the end when you install it, if you back it out you rune the threads. you can get the inserts in different length.

[@superloopy24v]

@@wb6anp I couldn't see it on my small screen but it seems likely. I had assumed there wasn't enough thread depth too which caused the time sert to get held up at that point instead of at the collar which caused the tool to move further into it and expand the threads to lock it in place too early.

[@bearpuf]

Watching you take the time and care placing the timing belt is similar to preparing for a rocket launch when each part of the preparation is checked and then rechecked for perfection. Thanks for a terrific video.

[@miwa4783]

@bearpuf Now we know why the rocket launches are always postponed🤣

[@thomasmleahy6218]

​​@@miwa4783 They shook the assembly and a loose fastener fell out. Now they have to completely disassemble the structure to examine where it should go and see that everything is actually tightened, assembled, torqued, down to the very first step, making sure every step is more carefully verified. It's always cheaper to do it right the first time.

[@miwa4783]

@@thomasmleahy6218 Oh no, that engine is a joke

[@carlcollingwood2063]

I called it! Back in the first video, when the bolt broke off, I left a comment saying 'You know you wanna fix it' - and I was right! NICE!!!

[@Impeeza]

you earn the right to joke about the screws, I can not imagine the cold going down you spine when the first bolt break.

[@agostinodibella9939]

I would only use hand tools to tighten bolts on that engine block! The aluminum seems weak.

[@JRein721]

Definitely, especially double down/check on that Jesus bolt (crank bolt). I remember my time on my own e46 the bolts a one time use and needed a cheetah bar to break off 200+ ft. Lbs 😅, even got a torque multiplier up to 600 ft lbs for the big’er tasks.

[@michaelpressman7203]

Especially cast aluminum,it has low grain structure

[@garyalford9394]

Speedwrenchs help save time also !

[@desotosky1372]

Armchair observation from 1,000 miles away, It appeared to me you needed to run the tap deeper to get past the taper on the end of the tap. Your threads were not complete at the bottom of the hole causing the insert to not seat/thread full depth. The insert tool is designed to drive the insert internally by incomplete threads at the bottom on the inside, not by the shoulder. The insert is not intended to thread fully onto the end of the installation tool. The insert is locked in place by the installation tool pushing thru and expanding the crimped section AFTER the insert bottoms out.

[@Heinrich_STG44]

Great tips.

[@ozemale6t928]

And Loctite is not necessary

[@duncancremin1708]

Two full rotations in the normal direction of rotation. Never backwards, with a sprung tensioner. The crank bolt coming undone was trying to tell you something.

[@craigcraigster4999]

Yes sir, 720* of manual crank rotation is mandatory for timing confirmation, PERIOD.

[@nkakaputa9293]

Was thinking the same. Always turn in the direction of rotation.

[@rogerfleury3591]

Hi! GOOD SUNDAY MORNING RAY AND THE WIFE UNIT! Don’t let the two new employees drown! Roger in Pierre South Dakota USA

[@victorbaird8220]

Shut up 😂

[@jamessowards3822]

Ray is a great mechanic but his drill and tap techniques scare me. LOL. Slow and steady is always the best method instead of "full steam ahead".

[@michaellamb5781]

Easiest way with ej engines is to take the lower idler pulls off when installing the timing belt. Imo. Love the vids and Troy is coming along great from a great teacher

[@freethought2296]

Put a jam nut on the installer, or the bolt with a jam nut, or a shoulder bolt. I think the insert cracked because that portion of the hole was bigger than the insert's threaded hole. For optimum thread engagement, a common rule of thumb is 1 1/2 times the diameter of the screw. If that is an 8mm bolt, you need 1/2" of thread engagement.

[@TheWickedFast1]

when tapping aluminum race blocks, we always use rubbing alcohol as tap lube, perfect threads every time.

[@SeanBZA]

M10 nuts on the insert tool will work, and the reason the tool was so hard to get on is that the Timesert has a thicker base, so the tool will drive it out to lock the insert in position. you did not get the thread tap in deep enough to make the hole, easy to get wrong. Plus the bolt going in for the tensioner will provide the locking needed on the insert.

[@hot_wheelz]

Agreed, while the drilling wasn't pretty, it was tapping the threads in the hole that caused the problem. One time where he may have been best to chase the original tapped hole with the appropriate sized finishing tap, because he was worried about going too deep with the tap, he didn't tap deep enough to get to the full depth of cut on the tap which caused the insert to seize in the hole when it got to the last 2 or 3 threads that weren't fully formed. When tapping a hole like that I always use a bolt with the appropriate thread pitch to check that the threads are clean and fully formed to the full depth needed.

[@user-di1px7de5h]

Hi Ray Love your videos here in Geelong Victoria Aussie! Watching you dealing with cheese alloy Subaru. The safest way out of the fractured thread insert problem was to collapse the insert by using a small Chisel to come at it from the side of the lip protruding out from the face of the block and tap it towards the centre of the hole. This will collapse and be able to be removed allowing you to then clean up the tapped thread and go again with another insert. My reason for removing the broken insert is that the threaded hole in this case is supporting a tensioner and is subjected to great load. Keep up the good work!

[@charliefox7206]

This episode has been like a suspense thriller.🦊

[@Miketime969]

Its a train wreck

[@Boga217]

You should always drill metal slow to medium, better for bits and your wrists. Definitely not great to full throttle gung ho them.

[@eldridge201]

I told him this I believe over a year ago and others have said the same thing when he drills things. He apparently wants to waste more time and money having to buy more drill bits after ruining them after the first 20 seconds but also spending extra time having to keep drilling when the hole could be drilled in a matter of seconds. In this case, he was just lucky that he was drilling aluminum. You should see what he does to drill bits in steel or harder metal. I just don't get it with some things with Ray. He's pretty smart with so many things related to vehicles but yet makes the most basic and simple mistakes. I didn't agree with the way he installed that thread insert and he should have redone it in my opinion. It may end up being okay but it didn't go the way it should have.

[@24bics]

For the life of me, I can't understand the logic behind running the idler bolt down with a non restricted torque tool into the aluminum block. Especially after having to do a thread repair once. I would've been content to run it down by hand, observing the published torque specs. Guess some folks can't learn from their mistakes.

[@MrHughk1]

@@eldridge201 He didnt run the taper of the tap far enough in hence the insert basically bottomed out. "Less haste and more speed" sign should be hung on Rays wall, he does so many little things that are just wrong, normally he gets away with it but that insert was a right botch job.

[@bryancaldwell1917]

Mild steel - high speed, high pressure Stainless steel - low speed, high pressure Aluminum - high speed, low pressure 21 years metal working experience.

[@Stoney3K]

Rule of thumb is: Small diameter hole goes fast, larger diameter goes slower. That way the velocity around the circumference of the drill is about the same -- if you're going too fast, either the drill will bite or you're going to temper or warp the metal due to friction, leading to a dull bit.

[@christopherten-eyck4473]

I thought the whole engine was going to bow up when you pulled the pin out 😮😂😂❤

[@michaelpressman7203]

Pull pin,throw & run away 😂😂

[@satamanschmidt3428]

Ray, you are using the wrong cutting fluid for aluminum. The Tap Magic you're using s designed for steel as it contains sulfur which is an extreme pressure lubricant. The right lube for aluminum is WD40.. There are other cutting fluids equally as good such as Boelube, Anchorlube, and Aluminum Tap Magic but WD40 is perfectly suitable for all aluminum drilling, cutting and tapping operations.

[@rickkcir9959]

If you keep all the stripped threads, you can melt them all down and make a baby Subaru!!!

[@ntcc_spanky8507]

One of the better mini series I have seen

[@neilpinner5750]

Congratulations! You continued were most would have given up! Those engines are made out of soft alloy. I worked on an alloy engine and ended up just putting an insert in every hole. But a reward is they sound nice with a decent exhaust. Thank you ray, for another great video.

[@clbcl5]

Without a center, the drill does not know where to go so it just bounces on the 2 flutes. That is the reason for a center punch in metal for the bit to know where to go. Just like a wood blow out after the tip exits the hole.

[@paulsolovyovsky1702]

you pay your mechanic not to fix things when things are easy, you pay for the insurance that when you have a SNAFU that you will be there to come up with a solution to the problem. Great work

[@Userf451]

I like the fact that Troy doesn’t try to be the star like a lot of the other shop assistants I see on KZbin.

[@michaelknorr6825]

Ive done similar to many a honda oil pan. Both the stamped steel and cast aluminum pans have an aluminum insert where the drain plug sits. The more I see you do, the more i see a Dremel as a good investment.

[@Dave-ty2qp]

Putting it nicely Ray, that repair looks like hammered shit with aroma enhancers mixed in. I wouldn't trust that to get me to the candy store and back, much less cross country.

[@allupinit2107]

GOOD TIP: I saw SMA put grease on drill bit and tap to catch most of the aluminum debris.

[@Dave.76]

Always great watching a Genius at work👍👍👍

[@jsh6952]

Ray, when hand tapping you can pack the tap flutes with axle grease to trap the chips as well as lubricate the tap.

[@IFIXCASTLES]

Silicone grease too

[@GMM_munkey55]

​@@willydavidit's just a bracket, there's no water jacket connected to that bolt hole, but there is an external cylinder wall right there

[@DonsJunkmail-vg1wt]

Care for some dip&chips🍨

[@garnersgaming9290]

Love your videos always great content

[@jthonn]

Glad to see you finally got it.

[@garynewell6947]

wow outstanding Ray the matrix has you another epic video Ray nut be safe and have yourself a great day

[@Travisthegamer22]

Love the videos Ray can't wait to see the next one ❤❤😊😊

[@lorrinbarth1969]

Enjoyed watching the timing job. One time when doing one of these four cammers the wrong belt was supplied in the parts kit. It was under size. I of course figured I was doing something wrong and hi-jinks ensued. I too have chewed up bits of Subaru engine metal. Your comment about the engine being made of cheese is on the mark.

[@craigcraigster4999]

That's why OEM parts/kits are best. AISIN supplies a lot of the OE parts for these Japanese engines, their complete timing kits (inclusive of water pump, belt, tensioner, and pulleys) are #1 for quality in my book.

[@lorrinbarth1969]

@@craigcraigster4999 Subaru's engines have to be more expensive that the standard inline four. Subaru's seem to run more cats that you see on other engines. Cats are expensive. If you have a car like the WRX with three differentials that is still more expense. Then you have to compete with the other brands. I want to love Subaru but they have to cut too many quality corners to keep their prices competitive.

[@blackenigma1054]

Your ability to tap into the everyday diy’er is your strength!….it’s good to see that your not just another know it all and your just trying to work the best that you can!👍🏿😂😅

[@stevo4649]

thankyou Ray,,this has been brilliant content,very frustrating for you but very entertaining for us,, see you in the next one,,👍👍

[@corndog6700]

Say hey Ray. I'm a machinist, and I've repaired more threads than i can remember. Run the drill as fast as youre comfortable hanging onto it, if it is going all apeshit, gounging out the hole, slow it down a bit. That aluminum block is dead soft, and probably pretty gummy too, speed on tye drill won't dull the drill. And heres the thing, dont buy drill bits off the trucks, from what ive seen, they sell junk. We bought a whole bunch of Matco TIN (titanium nitride coating) coated drills (actually, the team was sponsored by them and they gave them to us), we tried using them in CNC mills, and they were junk, lots of exploded drills. Get Precision Twist Drill (PTD). Guhring. Walter. Good quality deills. HSS/8% Cobalt. They last a lot longer than the extremely expensive truck sold drills. Get them from MSC or one of the big machine shop suppliers. And your thread repair/hack job insert, will work fine, i would have done the same. Keep it up RayRay 8:12

[@nissan300ztt]

Hope youre going to flush that cooling system out with some hose water? Those metal chunks can play absolutely hell with that new water pump.

[@sillywwabbit]

My thoughts exactly.

[@donhall7884]

Nice job there Ray, i've done the same with insert not in 100% , grinding is ok.

[@daveblevins3322]

Thanks Ray 💥💥

[@MrBillrookard]

Wow, glad you finally got this one done. I've done the whole small truck big engine swap: 2.5L auto trans Ranger to 5.0L 5spd Ranger. It's challenging to say the least and I bet you'd love a project like that. Mine took some planning - started in Feb getting the motor, resealing the whole thing, getting the parts etc. By May I was ready to go and had the whole engine out then in within a week. Lots of little parts will nickle and dime you... BUT! I start her up and she rumbles...

[@Blaxjax21]

It broke at the taper that was all ready there. You could have used a nut to lock the depth.

[@HouseCallAutoRepair]

Thread repair fail...

[@WaveDudeTX]

That's not how timeserts work. The tool expands the insert to lock it in. I'd be pi$$ed if this repair was done on my engine

[@Blaxjax21]

@@WaveDudeTX That is not how to properly use it. But a good mechanic can addapt

[@davidmcnew4214]

Could use 2 nuts as a stopper on the installation tool.

[@terrywebb8636]

Yes a good video Ray, it's coming along real nice.

[@frankheintzjr595]

Yes!!! Finally done

[@darkknight145]

Are you sure you want to pressure wash that engine? The alloy is so soft the pressure washer will probably blow a hole in the block.

[@AJwoodway]

😆

[@timewa851]

it's called Job Security.

[@hemmi06]

😂😂😂

[@billwilbur3608]

😂😂😂😹

[@thomasmleahy6218]

​@@timewa851 Is that anything like a wallet flush?

[@jasonpoletta1797]

I know shit about Subaru engines and I could tell that's a bracket. Further research shows they can be purchased brand new for around 40 bucks.

[@CaptainNero]

Thanks Ray.

[@bulldogshouse9970]

Yes I enjoyed your video it was good to see Troy in it too

[@zx2gamer]

That bracket for the tensioner is like $30 from the dealer.

[@gerrycarmichael1391]

Not that I think you're ever gonna go near another Scooby engine but they do make a tool that locks the cams into place on those DOHC engines (available on Amazon). Also I've never had Scooby timing marks align perfectly exact. I've rebuilt dozens of these things. You did pretty good for your first time😊

[@tussery]

Yeah after two rotations the marks will not line up perfectly and it’s caused many ocd people grief.

[@parkinson1963]

I use strong spring clamps to hold the cam gears in place.

[@patrickpattberg8551]

Maybe my eye-crometer was off , but it looked like the double timing marks lined up perfectly - just not the paint marks on top of them .

[@MsFireboy2]

Thanks for posting. When it comes to the right stuff I used a bunch of it when I worked at Pep Boys. Mainly we had a lot in stock. And it really works.

[@oqwazyme4616]

Another exciting episode of " Mr. Hand " !!

[@larrys5198]

I would've rather seen you blow out the hole with air by putting the air gun tip past the hole so it pushes the chips out, or vacuum out as much as you can and then blow them out. (Like you did with the tapping chips). Hope you flush the system to catch those metal chips.

[@paulferreira8342]

Was thinking the same thing. Those chips will jam the T-stat, heater valve (if equipped), or clog the heater core, radiator, etc.

[@chrissmithz314]

That bracket is 100% external to the engine and is replaceable, it attaches to the block with 3 bolts. No chips or shavings will enter the cooling or lubrication system from there.

[@paulbainbridge6425]

The shavings will be between the bracket and the block , there was no need to repair the thread he could have just replaced the bracket

[@eldridge201]

@@chrissmithz314 so was Ray apparently lying when he specifically stated that the hole goes directly into the cooling passage/jacket? You did hear that part in the video right? If you have information that proves otherwise, how do you know this? I'm not trying to argue but have you taken one of those engines apart before so you know that what you're claiming is true? I would think Ray could figure out if that hole goes directly into the water jacket or not.

[@chrissmithz314]

@@eldridge201 Lying? No. Mistaken? Yes. The only proof I can show you is to watch this video from briansmobile1 at the 6:30 mark when he removes that bracket. "How to Take off a Subaru Timing Belt" He also explains why you should never remove the tensioner first like ray did. edit: I guess one other possible way to see this is by looking up the bracket part number and seeing pictures of it, subaru pn 13156aa052

[@leifharaldlongbeardiii861]

one tip stop using power tools when inserting bolts into threads, then you don't strip them

[@DonsJunkmail-vg1wt]

Yeah...there's better stripper clubs than that!😍

[@satansenemy_]

All the metal shavings that went inside that engine, and documented also.

[@titaniumman_22]

Interesting…you get your paperweight repaired and Eric O tackled a parasitic draw on a Subie today! Thanks for the video.

[@ColtaineCrows]

So, I know it's against the law, but you should read the instructions for those thread inserts 😂 The install tool is a swage, and you're supposed to lube it. Tbh I much prefer helicoils for general thread repair, timeserts are possibly better, but they're super easy to mess up and cause grief.

[@elminster951]

Hey Ray! I would have drilled the hole in the washer large enough to go over that insert. Think it would've been easier than all that grinding. Love your videos.

[@kanderson569]

A true machanic well done sir

[@SeanBZA]

Oh yes, please remember to get your shop a Recoil/ Helicoil set, with a pack of 50 M6x1mm by 1.5 length inserts, because you will be needing it for the Rubasoo timing belt covers, as those little M6 bolts get stripped out by the dealerships going in with the ugga dugga method, and tear the threads loose. Done a good number of Recoil inserts into either aluminium alloy valve covers, or on VW carburettors, where the centre bolt comes stripped, and there is only room to do the Recoil insert. Drill down deep, and put in 2 of the 6mm inserts, to get enough thread engagement to keep it from stripping out, and clean the hole, plus use green oil resistant threadlock on both insert and the stud.

[@michaelpressman7203]

Had to put inserts in my frame rail because of air box being removed & replaced by shops & me

[@nkgagne]

31:43 kind of surprised you didn’t spin the engine over by hand a couple of times (maybe you did and it got edited out?). Always a good idea after redoing timing because you will know if you ****ed up before it causes any damage.

[@craigcraigster4999]

I couldn't agree more. On my '06 LS430's 32-valve DOHC 3UZ-FE, once the belt is in place per all timing marks, the crank should be manually rotated twice (720*) to confirm the engine being in-time and the belt hasn't slipped and jumped a tooth. The marks on the belt itself will no longer line up, but all timing marks on the cams and crank should, thus confirming proper timing and avoiding a complete disaster for this interference engine. Not sure if the procedure is identical for the Subaru flat-4, but manually checking timing on any engine in a similar fashion prior to reinstallation of cam/front covers is always a wise idea, no matter how many similar or identical engines you may have worked on in the past.

[@beavcleav3086]

He never showed it on any other engine either. He probably doesn't check them ever

[@Miketime969]

Not the best or brightest at all😂

[@davidcraven277]

Since the bolt goes into a water jacket how about some sealer on the threads to guarantee no leaks

[@nooneeyeno]

agreed, a couple wraps with Teflon tape on the insert and bolt will do the trick, I got burned a few times with bolts into water jackets or oil galleys.

[@marksmallman4572]

I doubt that the bolt goes into the water jacket.

[@davidcraven277]

@@marksmallman4572 Mr Ray stated he could see the cylinder wall threw the bolt hole

[@pskton]

That has to feel great to finally get it done.

[@bryantench1178]

She’s alive!

[@turner0224]

Ray is the best, a channel like no other. I tune in to find out what he gets himself into today. You need channels like this after intense channels like Scanner, Pine Auto etc. you need levity.

[@Jason-co9ep]

A $105 time-sert kit to repair a $50 tensioner bracket, ouch!

[@Jason-co9ep]

I just want to add that my previous comment was in no way intended to be a slight or insult. I think Ray is an excellent mechanic and I have learned a lot from his videos. Everyone has the potential to have oversights or mistakes in their work, but not everyone would own up to them and not pass the cost of said mistakes onto the customer, particularly in this trade from my experience. I do pretty much all of my own mechanic work these days because of this, but I would not have the confidence to do so without the work folks like Ray put in to share their knowledge on platforms such as this one. Thank you, Ray, for your hard work, honesty and willingness to share!

[@gimmeaford9454]

It’s not a one use kit.

[@desotosky1372]

Question, if it is a bracket, then the hole does not open up into a coolant passage, correct?

[@manuelbejarano6121]

Wow! NIce work, thank you for this video, it will com in handy with my 09 Outback...... Awesome content as always very entertaining !!! Thank you!!!!!!!!

[@felderup]

when i was young i used to love playing in hurricane rain, it was warm and i hadn't yet switched to onlysweats, we lived in a place where the houses were built to take bombs, also swimming in the 8' ocean swells, it was fun, cause usually that stuff would hit when the hurricane missed and it was still safe to go outdoors.

[@charleslaing3426]

Since the tapped hole for the tensioner mount goes into the cylinder water jacket, would it have been a good idea to put some sealant on the bolt threads? I think Loctite makes a sealant/locker.

[@MonkeyJedi99]

I am imagining an auto shop after closing, sign lights off, just a little light leaking from under the bay doors. Listening carefully at a window, I then hear, "Hi, I'm Troy, and I really like Jeeps too much." Then the voices of several mechanics, "Hi Troy."

[@bryanstrietelmeier2573]

Dang it,I kept waiting for the brake clean screech when you were drilling and tapping.But you just used the air instead.Victory is at hand my friend!❤💯

[@peterlennon1139]

Well done!! I'm amazed you got away with that drill out a retap without a jig. I was always taught to do that stuff upright in a drill stand to ensure the result was perpendicular. I'd be interested in your opinion as I'm always here to learn 👍

[@michaelpressman7203]

Take a block of scrap steel that will sit flat on mating surface,on a square drill press,drill a guide holes one the size of taping drill the other the size put the block flat surface to be drilled it will help

[@peterlennon1139]

@@michaelpressman7203 exactly 💯

[@craigcraigster4999]

@@michaelpressman7203 would a mini-spirit level attached to the tap handle tool be viable if we don't have access to a drill press?