Will this even work? My DIY rain gutter for the back of my truck camper

[@TACTICALNOMAD]

@softroadingthewest, Donald, When the canopy is deployed, take one of the large (3.5" dia.) Pool Noodles, slit it length-wise and slip it over the awning where it meets the cap. The noodle will seal against the cap and reduce or completely prevent water running down into the bed.

[@AbeFrohman528]

@@TACTICALNOMAD BINGO!.. just don't use a Pink one.. 😂

[@mikechristensen1285]

Good idea, it’s funny though… every single KZbin comment section on a camping/offroading/overlanding mentions pool noodles at least once.

[@milesb4231]

Mmmmm noodles

[@TACTICALNOMAD]

@@milesb4231 😂🤣

[@TACTICALNOMAD]

@@mikechristensen1285, Pool noodles are such a useful item with a very diverse range of uses.

[@WesternDriven406]

Here’s an idea….Hey TOPO TOPPERS, please send our man Don the updated Mesa topper already!! Jeez. 🤙

[@marchingon5401]

The trick to a thinner tape strip is to trim off the excess after applying it to the thinner metal strip. It becomes its own straight edge for a perfect fit. 🙂👍🏻

[@Studmn]

Run a 40 mil piece of rubber between the window and the canopy. Sealing both sides, so when you open the window it will flex up or down and stop water from the top of the canopy and when you open the window. I did this years ago on my old truck works like a charm 😊

[@PaulSchortemeyer]

Hi Donald👋 - I built my own camper and solved this by not letting the pistons open the camper door so high. At full piston extension my door is angled slightly down, not up. Perhaps you can mod yours(?) by limiting the amount the door opens. Then attach the aluminum angle down by the bottom of the door, (the new low point). Run it left, right or even straight - it’ll all work. 😊

[@paultompkins7392]

The gutter on a slant makes my OCD kick in! Glad you are back!

[@MauroMarzorati]

For the problem of the hard spout extension, consider replacing it with a string. Hammock campers use drip-lines to prevent water's natural propensity to run down a string (surface tension) and getting the hammock wet from its suspesion to the tree/pole. I'm sure you've seen lifehacks for pouring water out of a glass without drips by using a wet string. Same concept here. Use a string as the down spout. For attachment could be sticky tape at the underside of the gutter at the low end, and maybe turned up a bit to create a small dam so that water pools a bit and gets the string wet by capillary action before spilling over. Maybe some sort of a hook (or a tiny binder clip too) at the loose end to the string (make it the length of the gutter) so that it clips to the driver/top side of the gutter (so it stays put when not deployed yet it is easily deployed). Also, what about doing the rubber barrier thingy again, but instead of being on the inside, make it be on the outside of the hinge. Could model/prototype it with some plastic/disposable drop cloth. Does it work better above or below the gutter? My mind says above, but then 90+% of the shiny/new gutter is for naught.

[@MauroMarzorati]

See Derek's Hammock Lab video on the topic kzbin.info/www/bejne/mWGQpoKboM-Wi5I

[@snappingturtle1621]

Use a pool noodle between the awning and the camper top to solve those drips. Inexpensive and they make good items to stop rattling items when not in use for the awning

[@theboston3386]

Sew Velcro to the back of the awning and adhesive Velcro to the camper. Easy fix.

[@coyoteself]

I have a SNAP Treehouse (Same concept as your GoFast) on my PRO-4X and even tho the Treehouse has a more vertical back, I have the same exact issue that you have when I open my back hatch in the rain. In researching how to correct it I came up with 2 solutions; Add either a butyl rubber or a 40 oz Vinyl Coated PVC Fabric seal (The same material on the back hatch of my 10 year old teardrop camper), or replace the door hinges with a Hurricane hinge, that is pretty common on most toppers. I cheaped out and went with the butyl rubber seal that would cove both the gap and the hinges and it worked great. For about 3 months, when it started to crack (Back to squar one). That was 3 years ago and even with it cracked the entire length, it does slow rain from getting inside the camper when I open and close the hatch. Now if I'm camping in the rain, I set up my Kelty Highroads Shelter and then no worries at all

[@jujugypsyjourney3826]

Stick a metal strip with that double stick tape where you need to use a magnet one on the camper the other on the hatch door as close to the edge as possible as the entire length. Use a strip of that vinyl magnetic stuff use for signage or magnetic stickers for the gutter. Roll it up and store when not raining. Make it as wide & long as you need.

[@Vengar_VR]

Great to have you back Donald, I hope you are doing well.

[@johnpagejr.7628]

You might look into replacing the current hinges with a hurricane hinge like what is on a lot of teardrop campers. They work very will to divert the rain water. That is what is on my used Century camper shell. The windows on my shell currently leak but the back hatch works just fine in the rain.

[@eric.browning]

Use some of that tape to stick some black steel discs to the top of the camper so you can use a magnet to stick the flap to the back of the camper.

[@rattlecanpaint]

Hi Donald, I have a first gen topo topper as well and have the same issue. Here's what I i did. On Amazon you can get a piece of extruded aluminum that is flat with a tube that's cut lengthwise attached to it. I riveted it to the camper about where your gutter is. (Used clear silicone to seal it to the camper.) Same angle and everything. Then I got a piece of vacuum hose and folded a chunk of tarp (cheap harbor freight) around it and glued it (make a bead like rv canopy's) and shoved it up the tube and then velcroed the other side to my awning arm on the underside. I cut the tarp chunk so it's narrow at the hinge of the awning/camper side and wider at the other end this gives me my my slope. Works great. I got the idea from alu cab. Google alu cab canopy camper rain gutter for a better idea.

[@scottymac5174]

I liked your DYI rainstorm!

[@jeffreyajello6046]

Welcome back! Hope things are going well with the family. Love your ingenuity and focus on what works!

[@roamingnomadoutdoors2554]

Try using 4 inch wide rubber stip using double sided adhesive that should solve even the gap from the awning, I saw a roll of it for$20 but I know you’re looking for inexpensive solution,

[@AbeFrohman528]

Good idea, I've seen somewhere (maybe Jc Whitney) stick on flexible 4" wide rubber wheel well molding (fender flare).. it's curved like a 1/2 pipe.. mounted upside down on that camper above the door might work well..

[@roamingnomadoutdoors2554]

I have seen others use the rubber strips on the bottom of the tailgate to eliminate dust from coming into the cab

[@johnlyngdal8601]

Welcome back. I hope your family member is recovering from their medical situation. I have some PVC roof membrane pieces from when my roof was replaced. It's flexible and durable and you could attach one side of the strip to your shell and the other to your rear lift that would catch all the water and divert it. If you want to give it a try I can meet up with you in Eugene at a place of your choosing.

[@fatmanoutdoors]

Like you did with the gutter channel, sue adhesive to glue small Neodymium magnets to the topper, and then you should be able to use that to hold the awning tight.

[@CampingWithSticks]

Good to see another video from you Donald. Enjoyable as always.

[@mobiltec]

A bit more work is needed. I build trailers for a living. I would extend that drip rail that you put on the camper out another inch or so. That would catch the run off from the 270 degree canopy.

[@Wandering_Kerrs]

Hi Donald, Take a look at an seal for the top of a RV side room. Or something like that that is a flap that would be over the hinge and gap of the door. You can make it a little longer than necessary so it drips out away from the truck. Good Luck!

[@AdventureswithZenna]

Oh look it started to rain,,, you are a genius thank you for this

[@wodgesad]

In Europe i would use a c section awning channel where you have your galv extrusion. Then I would buy a caravan awning skirt. This is about 18 inches deep and has a flexible nylon rod encased in a stitched on tape at one end. This slides into the the channel and is the. Draped over the open upper tailgate. You could attach the loose end to the tailgate with stuck / stitched magnets. This would give you almost perfect weather sealing and take next to no storage as the fabric skirt folds small. I’m not sure if this is available on your side of the Atlantic though.

[@LenSilvester]

Good job!! To stop some of the drips between the canopy and topper. Get a roll of 1" sticky magnetic tape, then have some loose magnets that you place over the canvas where ever required.

[@killazftw]

you can use double sided tape with magnets on the back of the camper and on the inside of the awning flap

[@arcenciel2968]

Donald, Stick two lengths of the harder velcro, one above the door and the other on the top of the door. Prepare a 10cm wide waterproof fabric, with another two lenths of the softer velcro lengthwise and attach this fabric on the two velcros of the truck.

[@Madness592]

rivet a piece of rubber like an inner tube between the door and the cap. then all the water that runs down your door goes into the little rubber trough and pours out either end.

[@HomeTownsAmerica]

Although maybe not perfect, this is not a fail. Prototypes are built all the time and then improved upon. This is a great start and I imagine there are a number of ways to tackle the issue. Good luck with the process of improving it. There's a solid solution here...cant wait to see where you take it. You get it right and maybe there's an aftermarket..throw a few bucks in your pocket for your design work?

[@tmherrin]

Great video. Thanks for always sharing your problems and solutions with your rig.

[@4WheelingInNSW]

Great clip mate; I love your zest for DIY mods, like mine 🤜🤛👍 Well done mate. I’ve been contemplating so Etching similar on my dog box / canopy door as it leaks a little through the piano hinge on the rain if it’s lifted up open. Good work bud, keep it up. Cheers from Sydney, Australia. 🇦🇺👍😉

[@WilliamDeCrescenzo]

Perhaps some rare earth magnets to hold the awning flap to the camper shell? Glue the magnets seeing as how the shell is aluminum. Or add some flexible material to the bottom of the awning flap and that should give the ability to tuck the awning into the added gudder.

[@mikeriester8798]

I was thinking this as well. If you glue the magnets to the shell and then just place a magnet on the inside of the flap when you deploy. This would add minimal visual bits (especially if you paint them black). You don’t need a solid seal, just enough that your existing rain guard catches the drips.

[@alanmohn4146]

For a suggestion. Most RVs that have slide outs use a rubber seal that I think will work in your situation. You can by it by length at most RV repair shops or on line. I have seen it up to 2 inch wide.

[@johndej]

Interesting idea! Perhaps a wider channel is available, though then you have to deal with removing the adhesive tape. Or tape another piece of channeling to the outside of the first one? Just a thought. Another thought is use some aluminum flashing. I might be possible to bend one edge over at an angle (45 degrees?) allowing a wider rain shield. I've seen it available with a 90 degree bend. My canopy doors open barn door style. I get a bit of runoff that way too. I have a Kammok awning that will cover it completely, but I don't use it often. Good stuff the think about though! I hope your family is doing well!

[@theclaxton]

From what I've seen the only company that really has this dialed is SuperTramp campers. Their design has a raised lip inside of the hatches to catch the water and divert My wife and I decided to go with the Ovrlnd camper and for this issue I plan to use a rubber flap only adhered to the top If you did a rubber flap the width of the camper that extended from camper (above hatch) to hatch I think it would work for both situations you outlined. It just needs to be wider than your hatch so it won't drip like you mentioned

[@brucestarr4438]

Attach awning track, like used on boats to the shell and use canvas with rope sewn in the edge that slides in the track to form a gutter. It can just lay over the open hatch or be attached to the 270. Drifta Camping & 4WD did this on their DOT trailer with a walk up RTT (WUHT). It was shown in videos on their YT channel a few years back.

[@scottymac5174]

I have a GFC and now they offer a rain gutter upgrade. That is one thing that I like about GFC. They build their campers so that the earlier versions can be upgraded to their newer versions. Everything designed/built to fit. The full upgrade or just the pieces you want.

[@scottymac5174]

I purchased a full roof insulation/carpet kit. Cut to fit. Just roll it out and install. Gave my camper build #. I don't have the shop/equipment available to DIY.

[@e.c.8668]

still think you should have tried the rubber seal (like someone else said below). You could extent it out beyond the width of the door and it should carry the water beyond the interior of your camper. You could also put a hole in it, and then some kind of plastic nipple through the plastic. Then when it rains you can put a little tube to direct the water away. Another thing that might work...but this is a much bigger effort. Use hurricane hinges. So you would replace the two hinges with a continuous hinge. The hurricane hinge you would rivet in place...maybe putting a piece of rubber between the hinge and topper to provide additional sealing. Rivets are usually waterproof, but you can put a dab of polyurethane caulk to provide additional sealing.

[@elflordsjourneys]

Dont think that garden hose was an exaggeration for oregon standards, 😅🌧☂️

[@CLTRDMLK]

3m Velcro will do the trick for the awning to the camper

[@richardplunk3910]

Use a 4x8 plastic piece mount it above your door and hangs over the open area. When open it should shed water

[@1oldvato782]

Hey Donald try looking for some a piece of used black rubber conveyor belt to attach it cross above the hatch. Mount it to the topo topper just below where it pops up the canvas line pass the hatch hinges to about the window line. Donald the rubber conveyor belt material will bend creating a U shape gutter that will catch the water and run it off to the side. Just a thought 🤔

[@louiskudlak2256]

Great diy video buddy ❤

[@darrylk808]

No need for the demonstration, we get it. You have a very smart viewership.😁 How about a rubber (Inner tube like) that is glued on the top and extends about 3 inches over the hatch. When you open the hatch the rubber hits your aluminum barrier on the hatch? If you make the rubber longer to extend out a few inches on both sides it will drop the water farther out, and it won't cut your head if you hit it.

[@Fordy760]

Probably a 4 inch strip of sheet metal could sit in the newly created gutter and be attached to the underside of the awning angled towards the gutter to fill that gap when needed. And would just slide under things in the truck bed when not needed.

[@darthmatt4120]

Use a tailgate dust strip. If it cuts dust between the tailgate and the bed, it would work up top also.

[@MrKeenaz]

Donald. You’re on the right track but how about some “c” section that they use on camper trailer awnings. You know the one where you pull a rope through it that has the canvas stitched into it? You can put one on either side (top and bottom) and pull the water proofed canvas through and also have it hang over as much as you like. Just a thought. Regards Mario 🇦🇺

[@stphns1737]

As I watch this, I have spent the week camping down the OR coast and SO MUCH RAIN! I think your idea was excellent, except for the 270 awning. Perhaps a little hanging bucket to catch the drips 😅

[@johnwalker3263]

If the channel doesn’t end up cutting it Ursa Minor sells a rubberized gutter that they use on their gen 1 and 2 tops. It would work excellent for this.

[@bruceyyyyy]

Commercial gutter scraps to the rescue! That 1 inch isn't enough but they do like 6 inch widths!

[@pcInCA]

Cheap quick fix would be to get a piece of vinyl carpet floor runner and tape it across the outside top of the door opening and door over the hinges.

[@christopheranderson8619]

Take a look at the Alu-Cab gutter. You may be able to utilize that or a similar idea.

[@richardplunk3910]

Just put guard about eight inches make it slant down a little

[@coreyclarke1604]

That's neat but I'd just install the ecoological tailgate gapshield. It attaches to only one side. It would just be longer than the door, match it to the ends of the cap. Door will pull it up when it is opened, then the water drips out to whatever the full edge is.

[@troyallen5806]

Just cut a pool noodle in half long ways, and run it along the top gutter, but a little wider. Lay it in the door hinge opening.

[@scooter9023]

Look at the Alu-Cab awning gutter. I’m sure you could diy something similar. It’s just keder rail and fabric

[@swidahooverlanding2867]

A couple of thoughts. You could use another piece of the sheet rock edge going down the side of the topper to catch the water and channel to the side. Could probably put a bit of a kick at the end to force it away from the vehicle all together. I could not see how the awning attached, but though if the nuts are keeping you from moving the awning forward could you use them as a awning attachment to the bracket? Or could you drill holes into the bracket to accommodate the nut heads? Just some thoughts. Thanks for the video! George.

[@sagebrushbob2321]

I have the newer rear hatch style, and the drip problem is still there. I have to put a trash bag over the foot of my sitting bench to keep it from getting soaked in the rain. My biggest pet peeve with rain is that the camper has a slight slope toward the front and causes the water on the roof to run forward and off the front corners and onto the side windows. Not a problem until you need to open the doors, then it runs straight down onto the driver and passenger seats. 😠

[@Silverback_GMT410]

What I thought of immediately was to do what you did in a sense but it was more of having a longer visor type of set up. Where it extended further outwards away from the back of the truck, and if possible goes over the top of the swing out canopy. Tho the channel you added for when the rear hatch is open, is brilliant, but then again the canopy would help against the rain too, won’t it?

[@dalekildal9614]

Opportunity? Go to Walmart and purchase a canvas (grey) boat cover. Cut a strip of it out to close the gap between your awning and the topper. You can sow Velcro on one side to connect to the awning and then figure out something to connect the other side to the topper. You can cut this strip longer than the topper so that you can direct the water away somehow. just a thought.

[@brucestarr4438]

canvas with rope sewn in the edge and Keder awning track on the topper.

[@MrSlammed180]

I notice you have a rubber piece between the bottom of your tailgate and truck box, I assume to keep dust out. Could you use the same product on the camper to cover that gap between it and the hatch?

[@neverfalter6702]

He addressed that in an earlier part of the video, it will get pinched in the hatch when it closes

[@MrSlammed180]

@@neverfalter6702 Ah, true, if mounted internally. If it were mounted on the exterior, it wouldn't pinch. But, It also wouldn't look very good.

[@paulthelefty]

I have done this exactly with an angled topper back glass for the very same reason. Seals off the entire hinge gap, but would still leave the ends problem Donald is having here. Perhaps a small piece of wire which could be bent down more to create a wicking effect on the ends would work? I also like the awning to the topper ideas, magnets, velcro, something like that.

[@dreman5547]

Hey Donald in addition to what you have done can you simply gorilla tape the crack of the door?

[@dennisbudd8102]

If its possible perhaps you can extend the roof of the camper out about 3 - 4 inches with a thin piece of aluminum using the two sided tape so no holes will be drilled into the roof?

[@dentman67]

Maybe just deploy some of the black pipe insulation between the gap when needed. Easy and cheap

[@timjchick]

I did something similar on my aftermarket jeep hard top but I found a rubber gutter material that had 3M tape on the back of it. To solve some of your water issues when the rear glass is open could you use some shorter struts so that it doesn’t let it open up enough to be angled towards the top and the water not running down the glass towards the top? The water instead would flow off the back of it.

[@stevenjohnson7348]

If you can not use a magnet use velcro .

[@nathankoroush7918]

Try some Velcro or install snaps on the awning flap

[@joannehart9624]

Because the hatch tilts towards the camper shell, the water dripping off the awning drips on the hatch drips where you don't want it. Would it work to keep the hatch pointed slightly downhill so the water runs towards your gutter as planned? I can't tell if it would be too low and the possibility of hitting your head on it. On my camper shell, the hatch is hinged quite high so it would never become an obstacle.

[@ThunderandLightningEvPickup]

Hey man, love these videos. I’m getting a topper put on my truck next week. Very excited. I don’t know if all the same issues but it’ll be great to learn from your experience. That being said, I’m curious if you’re awning, Bag makes a lot of sound when traveling down the road?

[@JayCeeGee]

They make something called EZE RV Gutter… it’s a self adhesive rubber gutter that is easily cut and applied similar to what you made. I used it on my RV above doors and windows

[@timjchick]

I used some of that on a project with good results.

[@james40130]

Just use a wider gutter 👍

[@JackStewartEnjoysRealEstate]

Could you use something like that rubber seal on the canvas and then do snaps onto the truck?

[@cliffmorgan31]

Strip of aluminum double sided taped to the inside of the awning, then 3 or 4 Velcro tabs holding it forward….?

[@Oregontrailblazin]

pool noodle ! or a rubber strip long enuf to cover

[@troyallen5806]

If you raise the gutter on the door some, or closer to the top gutter? Won't that help? or does it interfere somehow?

[@89crix]

Make the gutter on the camper wider to carch any drops that get through?

[@MSchumacherfan]

Bigger aluminum angle needed

[@johnyx6754]

The second gutter is ok. Maybe 3cm longer... The first gutter, you must remove it. Place another one that has 3 times more width and 2-3 cm longer. These aluminium gutters you will find them from those who built isolation inner walls and use them as vertical fix joints.... I don't know the word.. plasterboard i think...

[@cowelk]

Nice try. You will figure it out. If you can't camp in the rain then the wet side of the mountains is not the place to camp because it seems to rain 8 or 9 months of the year. Good thing there is the dry side.

[@imhidingintheshop8889]

if you moved closed to us in the land of the dry you would be set!

[@marcericdavis]

Seems like a 1.5” gutter instead of the .5” gutter you used is what you need.

[@AM-bk9ei]

Just use black rubber tape

[@YouTubeTyler]

Do you have wild turkeys roaming your part of town?

[@johnwalker3263]

Easy solution, don’t camp in the rain, lol! I know that’s impossible on the west side. You have to have gills to live over there!!

[@KnittedSchnauzer]

Glad to see you back home and getting out. Hope you Dad is doing better. I tried a special seal made for the back window of Jeeps. I have had some success with it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hnXMZoWKlNOcmM0

[@pinzone4358]

Bald men of the world..unite!

[@richardplunk3910]

Wish I could explain better

[@dhawkr.3678]

Should have bought a Hiatus camper.

[@mastervoni1285]

Duct tape is your friend 🤯

[@tonyt3428]

You handle a paint can like a 9 year old girl..... PLZ NO MORE DIY VIDEOS