Sol-Ark 12K 48V Inverter Install (to compare with Growatt 10K)

[@FrugalRepair]

Great demonstration and explaining things along the way!

[@rodrickingram8731]

I have one of these and this is the most versatile inverter on the market and the easiest to install.

[@sterlinrussell2659]

Are you running grid tied or off grid? Thanks

[@rickymartin06]

yeah it is a $7k deye chinese inverter with a face lift

[@paulomock3741]

You need to intall the app for the Sol-Ark and you can check when it was your overcurrent fault and then looking at the graph you can see how many watts or current

[@FilAmGabe]

I am excited to see you reviewing this.

[@eDoc2020]

A benefit of the Sol-Ark is that it can participate in New England's ConnectedSolutions program. This pays you if you backfeed the grid to help keep it running smoothly during certain times of need. If you can participate in this you should be able to get a good return on the increased cost of Sol-Ark. If you know anybody participating in this program (or other similar programs which I'm sure exist) I'm sure it would make a nice video. Maybe if you end up with your own to keep long term...

[@SyberPrepper]

Thanks for the video!!! I'm setting up a Growatt now and your videos really help.

[@bobolones6834]

Nice vid! I hadnt seen videos comparing SolArks to Growatts.

[@TheFonz01]

THIS is what i have been waiting for!

[@whoguy4231]

Can't waite to see the inverter battle royal!!! Great Video

[@vincei4252]

I've had my Solark for 13 months now and I couldn't be happier. I have 30 solar panels feeding it, two strings of different voltages. It's awesome to see it charging and powering the house drawing 9KW from the panels and not breaking a sweat. Shame you can't keep it 😁 Oh, and the online monitoring software for the Solark is streets ahead of the trash and insane software that comes with the Growatt that I was never able to get working in web mode - super frustrating. The Solark just works.

[@margarita8442]

u have blocking diodes for the two strings of panels ?

[@mlg779]

You cannot go off-grid with that kind of usage on the solark. You need the Grid connected.

[@vincei4252]

@@margarita8442 It has two independent solar inputs so there's no need for such things. My arrays run at vastly different voltages but are connected to the independent input on the solark.

[@johanncover1988]

It's your setup grid tie or off grid

[@onthelake9554]

@@margarita8442 2 Mppt's

[@Pappy-1]

Looking forward to the next video on the sol-ark.

[@waynewilliamson4212]

Very informative video. Looks like your going to need a bigger wall pretty soon.

[@MrStevealvey]

Hi David - enjoy your stuff. I have a large DIY solar array and battery back-up system on my home on Pender Island in Canada. My home is electric only and I generate - and use - 14 MWH annually, including electric car charger and pool pumps. This video made me think that you may benefit from adding a Schneider Electric SENSE system to your electrical panel. It's cheap (Home Depot?) and provides real time information about your loads and solar generation, on an IPhone (or Android) ap. It should give you the diagnostic information that you need to 'figure out' why your SolArk is shutting down. I'm a retired EE and assist my friends and neighbours with their installations. I always recommend the installation of a SENSE system as the first step; as none of us knows how we consume energy at the 'per load' level, and how that affects POWER peaks and average load (for back-up duration). Keep up the good work.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

When did Sense get sold? It was a startup here in Massachusetts.

[@bentleyjarrard885]

Excellent review, looking forward to the next test results. Based on the price of the Sol-Ark ($7,000) and it only having 9KW, I'd stack 2 x Schneider Conext XW Pros ($3,250 ea. or less if you shop around). That would give you 16KW+ for 30 minutes and 14KW continuous. For some reason Schneider doesn't get much attention. We've been using the older model XW+ for 3 years (AC coupled, mostly in pass-thru mode) with no issues. Its a low frequency type inverter with a massive transformer, its a beast to lift and hang on the wall but it runs a 4 ton air conditioner with no problem. Note that the Schneider does NOT have built in MPPT charge controllers but it does have a 140Amp battery charger when the grid or a generator are available. In AC coupled mode there is no need for an MPPT charger so it works great in our situation.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

The surge capacity of the Schnieder looks great.

[@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity]

I almost went with Schneider until I started reading about their very poor customer service. I’ve got a two 12K system to install. I’ll go with four Magnum 4448PAE if Sol-Ark gives me issues. Installing soft starters, hp dryer and hp water heater.

[@bentleyjarrard885]

@@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity No question about it, Schneider is just too big and the customer service is poor. I've also dealt with them on the electrical side with UPS and switchgear installations. Fortunately, I have not had any issues with the 6848 inverter that required replacement parts or service. Magnum is a good choice also.

[@bentleyjarrard885]

@@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity I'm using a Hyper Engineering soft starter on my Goodman AC condenser, works super good.

[@onthelake9554]

Ben will be here shortly to explain why not to use XW pro's . :>)

[@teekay1785]

Add the autotransformer to the Sokark . Measure the standby power used by Solar and some form of efficiency test from battery and battery charging.

[@arthurhammeke8296]

I have this issue on the split phase growatt I have. Going to add a autotransformer. Hindsight, would gone the 240v inverter method for my shop, but was looking for an all in one method. Yes, the autotransformer will work on the Solark, others have done it.

[@nodoakdozeer1339]

@@arthurhammeke8296 Which split phase Growatt do you have? I have been looking at the 12K SPF 12000T DVM-MPV in part to avoid having to have & wire multiple inverters and 1 or more Mid-Point Transformer.

[@SeunOjedeji]

I have heard some users saying the 12k Sol-ark is actually a 9k system in practice. I use the 8kw Deye inverter (who are the manufacturer of Sol-ark) and it works flawless plus it's way cheaper than Sol-ark - ofcourse markets are different though. I will pick Deye over a growatt anytime, any day. David should try do a comparison with Deye.

[@HabitualButtonPusher]

Glad I watched this. Was about to go solark but hell growatt for me

[@robyork6372]

Dito, I was all about the SolArk, but the transformerless inverter is less forgiving than a transformer based one. Transformers are less efficient, but cost about 1/3 and you can make up the efficiency difference with a few panels and/or battery. Additionally, my Growatt SPF 12000 will do 300% for 20ms which is great if you are running near capacity and a motor kicks on.

[@keithpvbatt2040]

Don't forget AFCI and GFCI protection that the sol-ark provides, plus RSD shut down trigger for roof top solar on a home. Its a lot of money but it does a lot of things including CTs for self consumption and time of use battery functions.

[@John-mg3ws]

Actually the ct's are extra for 200 amp services. The shutdown "feature" is a bad thing and nobody undertmstand the backup only functions to critical loads! ...and doesnt it say in the manual you cant hook the sol-ark up to panels with afci breakers? By any chance do you work for sol-ark?

[@keithpvbatt2040]

@@John-mg3ws No I don't work for sol-ark, but I do install of them. The RSD for the panels is triggered separate with the a push button for fire fighters if there is a fire etc, but if the grid power goes out it will not affect solar for back up power. AFCI/ GFCI is internal to the inverter and required for all UL / ETL US listed DC inputs on inverters and charge controllers over 80v DC for roof mounted arrays. However AFCI and RSD are not usually needed for ground mounted arrays. Our supplier orders Sol-arks with 200 amp cts only, most come with 100amp cts.

[@Tranquilitarian]

You have a very nice battery bank, however I do recommend using a staggered takeoff where you connect the cables to the negative of the top battery in the bank and the positive of the bottom battery in the bank thereby making the load on the batteries a little more equal.

[@yankey4]

Nice brother. I love seeing this kind of testing. God Bless brother.

[@L0Sinc]

Nice work Dave!

[@defjamsgreen]

THIS IS AN AWSOME VIDEO . CAN'T WAIT TO SEE THE FUTURE VIDEOS ABOUT THE SOL ARK VS GRO WATT .

[@NeilBlanchard]

I learn a lot watching your videos - but I also see how much there is to learn! I have no idea what a lot of the breakers and phases and the autotransformer are for, etc.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

O, sorry about that. There is always more to learn. I learn more about this stuff every day. If you want to know more about the auto-transformer, then I have a more detailed video on it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r4i4l6msiMZmgZo

[@NeilBlanchard]

@@DavidPozEnergy Nothing to apologize for! I think I watched the one on the autotransformer, and I will watch it again.

[@jingyu447]

David, I’m the CEO of Fortress Power,we‘re one of Sol-Ark preferred LFP battery manufacturer. our batteries close loop with Sol-Ark. i think it would be a great video you can produce by showing your patriots how closed loop works and why it‘s better for the end users. We will be glad to send you 2 units for testing.

[@keithcress1335]

Totally agree with FrugalRepair! Your clear reasonably paced repeated details were GREAT. I suspect you're right about overloading just a phase on the Sol-Ark. That is an outstanding benefit of using a transformer to develop the neutral. The inverters then have no idea of any phase imbalance. If the transformer is generously "dimensioned" (the technical term for it) there would be no reason you couldn't support a 10kW 120Vac loading.

[@robertokine3533]

Hi David, I always watch your videos Am not technical but has interest in solar build up presented by you. Have just watched you tear apart ev batteries from BMW. Have just ordered 5k inverter and battery for my engineer to start a basic solar system for my house. Wish those EV batteries were shipped to me in West Africa (laughter)

[@ezerikdaswahreleben2715]

Great, nice explanation just for „ normal „ people . You are very good in it . I like to watch your videos 👌👍

[@cquintana9326]

I would LOVE to get a Sol-Ark. It is the only unit that will do the configuration I need. However, it is way above what I can budget. Sorry to hear you had issues with it. My configuration: Grid-tie w/net metering or sell to self. 48v Battery backup. Generator backup input. A few panels w/enphase microinverters for AC-couple. Critical load panel. They are going to get left behind just as soon as somebody makes an all-in-one at a lower price point.

[@John-mg3ws]

Be aware that you will be limited to only using the load out breaker/critical load out. When the ct's detect no voltage from the grid, the ac breaker is cut! No way to disable this im told by support. The manual does not say this either. Dont expect to connect to your main panel with the grid breaker and have any backup functionality... i am learning these limits after i bought it!😐 ...im looking at 2 ats's and a disconnect and being limited to 63 amps while grid is up and 37 amps while grid is down with all those additions! Then i will have a 4500 watt limit per leg on top of that! Sol ark is a joke! Dont buy it!

[@benssolarandbattery]

Even though I already have one, I'm excited to see it tested properly and thoroughly!!

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Haha. Thanks Ben. I loved checking yours out.

[@jamesshomesolarmore2223]

2 of my favorite video celebrities chatting. Love the content that both of you put out.

[@LogicMomentum]

I installed one of the Sol-Arks on an offgrid island, I really do like the unit, it's capabilities, ease of install, Dual 500v Solar, etc. but there are definitely overloading issues. If an AC compressor spikes the load for a split second, it'll shutdown. If there is a big mismatch in 120v load per leg, it'll shutdown. I wish it was a little more forgiving because remote troubleshooting with the client it is a pain.

[@av1204]

add an auto transformer. there are videos on how to do it. I had this problem and now it never overloads.

[@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity]

That is what a soft starter is designed for. If we can afford a Sol-Ark, we can spend $309 x ? HP’s or AC’s.

[@SiriusSolar]

@@av1204 adding the transformer sounds like a great option. How many watts will it add to the idle consumption? And how many wants to the overall efficiency if your standard load is, let's say 1,000 Watts

[@MrSeth166]

What about a bank of capacitors? That'll keep enough power for any power spikes...

[@DavidHalko]

@@av1204 - “add an auto transformer” - he spent a period of time on this video talking about his auto transformer

[@aspendell209]

The Sol-Ark is much more temperamental to load difference between phases. I've heard as little as 15-20 Amps more being drawn on 1 side than the other can cause shutdowns. The auto-transformer on the back side of the Growatt inverters mitigates that a bit better so as the inverter itself isn't as heavily affected. Also the 70mm die for your crimper should be for 4/0 cables.

[@aspendell209]

Engineer 775 has commented on this "feature" many times as he primarily installs Sol-Arks lately.

[@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity]

I have an ALL electric house, 3 hp systems (5.5 Tons) with soft start kits, 80 gal electric water heater. My two 12K's hsve no problems. Because my panel was already balsnced and i installed TWO!

[@kerthulett467]

Excellent demonstrations and explanations...keep up the good work, tests and videos!

[@mendohomepower7492]

I've installed a number of Sol-Ark 12k (9k) inverters. They function well. But for dollars spent, I'll take the Growatt 5k units with an added transformer in a heart beat. Here in California with PGE, net metering is a losing proposition.

[@nodoakdozeer1339]

@Mendo Home Power What do you think about the Growatt 12K,250 with the transformer built in? I like the idea of a simpler overall setup.

[@MatthewN8OHU]

David, I ordered the Growatt SPF 5000 ES and autotransformer tonight. Still need to order my solar panels and batteries.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Nice.

[@marklinton5152]

My understanding is that the 12k can only output 8kw from the batteries. I'd like to see how it handles the surge on battery alone.

[@DavidHalko]

That is pretty shady advertising… 12k but only 8kw from battery

[@firebird9232]

@@DavidHalko 12k is has 2 charge controller both sized at 500v. worth 2k just in charge controller specs . growatts have 150v and 250v options. 500V is the way to go if you want save ton money on wiring. which is usually $300-600 plus can save money vs having a combination box which is another $200-500 savings

[@jamesshomesolarmore2223]

@@firebird9232 the growatt has 450 on the voltage.

[@reggiemkhize7430]

Looking forward to more comparison test. I am yet to see what can challenge the Growatt. That brand is bulletproof.

[@DialM4Microcontrollr]

I just installed a Growatt for my fridge and freezer. Using it at 24 volts with 2x Ampere Time 200ah 12v batteries. Just started with it and need to make some adjustments

[@zakbrinkhoff324]

Can't wait to hear how better this is

[@wjf213]

Over loaded SIX TIMES???? I want to know more about why it's doing this. I mean that's just totally unacceptable. I've been thinking about getting a couple of these too, but not so much now. Back in the mid 90's when I was getting into off grid set ups, I had a Trace SW5548 power panel and ran the whole house including window AC's and it never over loaded once in the dozen years I used it. I wish I had brought that system with me when I moved. I'm also interested in auto generator start up and shut down and how that works. My Trace inverter had this feature and I loved it. Worked great with my 33kWh diesel gen set to power the electric heat, water heater, oven and dryer, as well as topping off the batteries when the wind gen wasn't producing....which was 70% of the time. Keep up the great work.

[@user-dr2pg8fk2i]

Really like the lab, even if there are electricians and inspectors dying inside from code violation overload.

[@polarbearigloo]

I like the 2 smaller inverters. makes more sense

[@ScubaSam242]

Nice… we have been installing these in the Bahamas for 5 years now

[@josed265]

Very Good video,Thank you , From Puerto Rico

[@Sanwizard1]

I have also heard of Sol-Ark shutdown over 4500w on a single leg, even when using multiple sol-arks in parallel. Load share comms timing issue between Sol-Arks. I didnt know its also there with one.

[@gn02020202]

He put in the transformer so the two legs are from that. The Sol-Ark doesn't see the individual legs. The Sol-Ark only sees the 230v/240v as a single option.

[@TopAdvenTours]

This is so well done. Nice explanation and illustrations. Nice job, thanks

[@TK-123]

David, this is terrific. Thank you..

[@brucegotohell1323]

For electric utility purposes, high voltage is anything above 1KV; the primary side of pole and pad transformers is high. Low voltage (120/240 1P, 208/120 3P, 440/277 3P) is below 1KV. Legal maximum low voltage is 600V, which is why the maximum open loop solar array voltage is around 500V. For all practical purposes, high voltage starts at 6KV, though most utilities use 12.7KV or 14.4KV as the local distribution system voltage. There is no medium voltage. "Safe" voltage is 48V and below. It's why 48V was chosen as the telephone network voltage.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Great information. Thank you.

[@kingarthurthe5th]

Could you compare the idle consumption between them? I know on paper the growatt should consume more, but it’d be good to have some real numbers

[@lunatik9696]

This was my main quesiotn. Some say you can always add a solar panel to compensate, but that ignores the battery drain.

[@SiriusSolar]

Yes I'd like to know the answer to this as well. And maybe broken down so we know how much the grow-watt is wasting and how much the transformer is wasting.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Hi Travis Sanders. In case you haven't seen it, I have a video where I show the Growatt idle consumption with and without the auto-transformer: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r4i4l6msiMZmgZo

[@SiriusSolar]

@@DavidPozEnergy awesome. I've been so busy lately I must have missed that video thank you for the link!

[@mikehart2555]

@@DavidPozEnergy ...and the idle consumption on the Sol-Ark, please?

[@jugadortipico9533]

Waiting for the next video

[@bigblockcutlass123]

I have been running the growatt 12k, 250 volt hybrid you suggested to me since first of June, It has be running my whole house perfect. I did have some issues with it over loading with the drier, central air conditioner, and toaster oven with well pump. I took the dryer off the system and its perfect. House draws about 1200 watts at all time with all the wife loads. This thing switch from grid to inviter at least twice a day, Morning and night. I do not have a large battery bank yet to run through the night. (new batteries out of stock). Only thing I don't like is the solar charger when the batteries start to get top off. For the most part this thing is great. Thanks

[@nodoakdozeer1339]

@bigblockcutlass123 What do you not like about the "solar charger when the batteries start to get top off"? I am thinking about getting the Growatt 12K,250 starting with a 6-slot-battery-rack with 48V/100AH EG4-LL Batteries and curious what concerns you have.

[@laxmipanta6438]

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[@laxmipanta6438]

Pwupyiwyyyyypyooywowwiwiy2o6y6yywyyepeuui2yypyoywyipwoyooi3iiyyiiyuoytyuoiuyeyiwoowyowwwoowowpwtiyyyiiyyyyoyptpyowpwyyyeyujqywueuueiww

[@laxmipanta6438]

Pwupyiwyyyyypyooywowwiwiy2o6y6yywyyepeuui2yypyoywyipwoyooi3iiyyiiyuoytyuoiuyeyiwoowyowwwoowowpwtiyyyiiyyyyoyptpyowpwyyyeyujqywueuueiwwpe

[@laxmipanta6438]

Ywwyptyowoywppww

[@mcsol473]

Beautiful how those 5 monster are togheter

[@SteveDinNC]

I haven't read all the comments, but I'd love to see a comparison of the higher wattage GroWatt verses the Sol-Ark. I know it would be a logistical challenge tho, with the loaned units and all. P.S. Thanks for what you do.

[@Wyatt333]

I want to know more about the dump load option - to throw over-production of solar to a water tank or an EV..

[@brianswenson2686]

Make sure you are in the latest firmware. The early firmware had a low threshold for L1 vs L2 unbalance.

[@engdarfatgalalyelectrical1076]

Your work is great and helpful

[@MARKReviews928]

Great video! Can't waite to see the inverter battle royal

[@geraldgrogan]

great video - thanks

[@wgoode505]

I am really trying to figure out why Growatt is kinda holding back for their release of the newer 12kw LF. The older model is not even available hardly anymore, yes pre orders for the older models says a lot to me. All of their other models are selling like hot cakes and availability is everywhere except for the 12kw LF. I think I'll just wait a little longer just like the Alibaba 304AH batteries. In a year, maybe two we will probably be overwhelmed with overstock and lower prices. Lets hope.

[@chriszbodula1894]

It sure seems like in a year from now we will not know what hit us/the world

[@SiriusSolar]

I saw them on eBay a while back. Did they sell them for a little while and then stop or something?

[@SiriusSolar]

I wonder how the efficiency of the low frequency growatt is compared to the pair of 5Ks with the transformer.

[@DavidHalko]

“Growatt… release of the newer 12kw LF” - this is not a simple engineering feat. Watching videos from Genetry Solar makes that abundantly clear. They have a nice inverter that does not require an auto transformer and takes spikes the rating of their units.

[@lasttrain5033]

hi david you sure have come a long way sence the days of that 3000 watt reliable inverter i bought one after watching that video and i steel have it

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Haha. I still have mine too. Last video I used it in was to make a power backpack for my leaf blower.

[@loucinci3922]

Silly SolArk thinks the water heater is a light buld. LOL. Nice review. I'd like to see more on AC Coupling (frequency shift to turn off grid-tie). Thanks for sharing.

[@drc6940]

It's great to see Jack Rickard's plan for frequency shift as a form of controlling inverters come to pass. RIP Jack.

[@pipingcalifornia3476]

I have this same inverter. I don't think you have enough clearance for cooling on the right side. I run the hell out of mine and have never had an issue with it at all.

[@BrianLeeWho]

I was thinking the same thing. Although it’s just vents on the right side, if you create turbulence then some parts may not cool properly.

[@mlg779]

you never had an issue because you are not of-grid. try to go of-grid.

[@alandonnels7382]

Would like to see you test an unbalanced load. Which I think you are experiencing with the shut downs. Also what is the standby power draw.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Got it. Standby power, unbalanced loads. I'm making my list.

[@peteasmr2952]

Id also be curious load per load how efficient each inverter operates.

[@thinde88]

I have the split phase 12kw Growatt powering my off grid house and my feelings are mixed. Yea it’s cheap but there’s a lot of little problems and it’s not giving me a good feeling relying on it to keep my home powered going into my first winter here with no real backup. Signature Solar tells me to update the firmware but I feel like there’s a real chance I brick my system and then I’m really screwed. Anyone reading this and want a reliable system, I’d really consider spending more money on something more reputable. And don’t rely on Signature Solar for any real tech support. They can actually tell you some down right dangerous setup instructions.

[@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity]

I love redundancy. Just keep saving and buying.

[@wgoode505]

I've been very skeptical about the 12kw LF Growatt with their limited availability but you are the first I've seen to have a kinda negative response. But then again I have yet to see "ANYONE" who has done a review of the Growatt 12kw who hasn't been given one for "FREE". Sponsored reviews are NEVER honest. Thanks for speaking up and I would love to hear a more detailed "honest" review. Rumor has it they are going to release an updated version. The 12kw is a no brainer for who wants the most of being off grid. Anything smaller is just a waste of money to me. Adding a neutral auto transformer is just too risky and I would never even consider that, that's why I love the LF model. I've just completed my total home electrical upgrade to separate all my 240v loads from my essential 120v loads panel into separate load centers along with a generator transfer switch and now I await a good 12kw version of the Growatt LF or something similar. Thanks for your comment.

[@sempertard]

@@wgoode505 Can you elaborate a bit on the risk(s) of using an auto transformer please? I plan on using one with a couple of stacked 5KW Growatts.

[@blainecelestaine4543]

It would be cool if you did a vid showing the problems . I am about to do a on grid system and its a little disconcerting the lack of clear reliable information available from the vendors

[@blainecelestaine4543]

My last MSG is directed to Travis H88

[@pcruz9083]

It's not apples to apples comparison. The Growatt should be setup the same as the solark internally. Loose the auto transformer from the setup and have the Growatt's provide 110v each line with 180° phase off into the distro box for the split phase and get the 220v across both line phases, and with that run the numbers. Just my 2 cents on this.. Edit: my mistake these are 240V ONLY output, this case you need the balance transformer additional hardware. For these configurations of additional power (sum ) of both output and have a split phase with 110v is better to have 2 inverter of 110v connected in sync and phase out 180 to get the output of 220/240 output.

[@backhoefred]

120 volt requires, a neutral wire for completion of circuit . The reason is there is no balance of amperage. 240 volts doesn't require a neutral to function, they are balanced at zero amps. The power company supplies 120 240 through a center tap transformer from a single leg of there three phase transmission lines. We did this on rock plants to provide ,lights etc for 120 and 240 loads. Fred

[@bearchow1929]

I think all inverter testing should include putting it in a chamber at 120 deg F with full load and let it soak for a while to stabilize temperatures. Then repeatedly hard short the output at least 10 times to see if it survives. This testing gets expensive if you have to buy them to test, but I'm sure many inverter companies suck up to a popular KZbin website like you and supply inverters to test and probably even give you kickbacks.

[@ipstacks11]

You have great content but this is what I keep thinking to myself while watching your video. A simple diagram goes a long way. A picture says a thousand words while still letting you explain it. You are making a video that allows you to use visual aids. Wiring isn't easy for a lot of people and seeing how it is put together in a simple way helps.

[@debbiedavis943]

I agree

[@justonpreble4083]

I agree but nevertheless love this channel...

[@lunatik9696]

I think David became confused about the wire gauge. Lower gauge wire is actually larger. Higher gauge is smaller. Whenever possible if you have it, use the larger wire if higher current is an issue. I have 8S2P 24V 200 A-hr batteries system (5 KW), but my BMS only allows 50A charge or discharge. I have 6 gauge wire (18" - 55A) connecting my batteries. That allows over 1250 W safely as nominal voltage is 26V or more. My greatest load with A/C is about 1050W allowing 85% efficiency is about right. My newer system (waiting on batteries from China) will be 48V and #6 wire should be sufficient even though I am increasing the load, the current will be less.

[@wva5089]

You are in a unique place to test the shading issue that eevblog spoke about in a recent video.. I'd love to know how shading of ~4 cells with a coax cable effects these different mppt inverter's algorithms.

[@Time-Trvlr]

You may reference the NEC NFPA manual for voltage description. It is my understanding that low voltage is

[@christopherscholz]

David, great video! To troubleshoot the shutdown of your converter, the easiest way would be to hook up a good power quality analyzer, e.g. a PQ3198, Other measurement I’d like to see: Harmonics at the output of your inverter. Harmonics can significantly reduce the lifetime of your appliances. Power conversion efficiency. Many power analyzers have trouble measuring power of inverter based systems accurately. Let me know if you need help with this or if you need to borrow equipment from me.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

I would love to understand more about how to measure these things. I own an oscilloscope, but I don't think that can tell me harmonics. Are you in Massachusetts?

[@christopherscholz]

@@DavidPozEnergy Hi David, in principle you could use an oscilloscope. There are a few major limitations: scopes are not very accurate instruments. Most scopes have only 8-bit samplers, if you use current clamps on an oscilloscope the phase alignment varies over frequency so a deskew will not help much. Scopes only allow you to take only short acquisitions and this might be good enough to trigger on a specific event. For power quality measurements you usually need days, weeks, months or even longer record length. I am out in Dallas, but I’ll shoot you a e-mail. Let’s talk.

[@DaxPallotta]

the limitation is not in the watts but in the voltage. I believe that its 500 volts per tracker. I made that mistake early on and reduced the number of panels in my string from 12 down to 11. Its been 4 months and not a single shut down since I figured this out.

[@Doctorbasss]

David, In fact only a few inverter are solar inverters are outputing all the power to both, or single L1 or single L2. Most will split the power they produce in half to each legs. One great way to overcome that is to use a transformer. The transformer will magneticly share the load to both L1 and L2 whatever the conditions. This is probaly what is hapenning on your Growatt and split phase transformer. The only downside is that you loose a bit of efficiency of your system due to additional phantom power draw by your transformer due to the loss during load and no load.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

I'm still charging the batteries from the Growatts. Bulk: 56.0. Float: 54.0. LVC: 48.0

[@onthelake9554]

You haven't been watching David's channel much , he covered this very thing with he autotransformer .

[@icarus901]

@@DavidPozEnergy 14s or 16s? 3.2 nominal or 3.6/3.7?

[@DavidPozEnergy]

@icarus901: My battery cabinet is made up of 6x Gyll Batteries. Each of those is 16s LiFePO4. I open one up and show the inside in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYqtY2ifr76GfcU

[@rob1andrews]

There may be a different reason the transfer switch did not hold, stranded wire should have a compressed ferrule on the wire bundle to insure the strands of wire will not move under pressure

[@careyjohnson1784]

Great job

[@jhimbert]

So you ditched the breaker in the panel for the direct connection to the distribution block for the auto transformer? I assume you did this to solve the problem of an accidental trip on the breaker of the auto transformer? So from what I see your running L1 to one side of the dis block L2 to the other side. Feeding those into the breaker and running that to the main l1 and l2 of your panel then running 2 lines out the dis block for the auto transformer and then that neutral you generate to the neutral block on the panel? Also Where did you get the 63 amp breaker?

[@martinkeding4228]

I would be very interested in a comparison / review / pro-con or the Growatt 12kw unit to your current setups.

[@roqm1248]

Great video david i dont know if you can go into the inverters logs and see what caused the trip, but if the monitoring was up and running you would've known for sure...hope the testing goes better.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Every time it tripped the error code was for AC overload.

[@roqm1248]

@@DavidPozEnergy as you said it might be because of an imbalance....out of curiosity was the autotransformer in use?

[@DavidPozEnergy]

No, I currently have the auto-transformer disconnected.

[@randacnam7321]

Almost certainly an overload on one leg. Maximum 120V load on a given phase is 4.8kVA. The reason the Growatts didn't trip is the autotransformer balances the load so the system can handle close to 10kVA on a phase.

[@roqm1248]

@@DavidPozEnergy if you dont mind do a torture test with and without the autotransformer....this tells me i might need to get one for my deye8k and thank you for all the videos and test you have done!

[@jleal4611]

I saw a video recently on the Sol-Ark where they said it is limited on each phase. Using an auto transformer fixes the issue by allowing the second leg to feed across to the first and the other way as needed.

[@TK-123]

This is too dangerous..

[@sempertard]

You mention running your water heater for a draw test. I would be really interested in seeing a test with and without a couple of thermal solar panels and a heat exchanger to preheat the water in the tanks. It's got to make a difference... Not sure if it would be feasible where you live this time of year.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

I built a 250 Gallon thermal store in my house years ago. It's been pre-heating my water since. I have lots of videos on that.

[@sempertard]

@@DavidPozEnergy on it! Thanks.

[@MahimaMoksha]

We're off-grid with the Sol-Ark 12k. It's ok but definitely does not like when phases get out of balance. It's horrible starting up 120V minisplits. 240V clothes dryer works just fine... Sounds like the growatt setup would be more reliable and less expensive than Sol-Ark.

[@buixote]

Also looks like the sol-ark is *weatherproof*. ! I don't remember the circuit breaker coming out of the Growatt... don't they have *internal* protection?

[@bluetrepidation]

Two Victron MultiPlus 3000VA units, a VE.Bus to USB adapter, and a raspberry Pi total about $2600. Just missing the MPPT charge controller part. Because you are using the raspberry pi to control everything you can tinker with the software and interface with any inverter or BMS. Nice if you like to tinker and no need to spend $500 on a screen.

[@dangoras9152]

David put that sol-ark to the test... No holding back run it hard lets see if its worth the money

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Will do. Anything in particular you want to see thrown at it?

[@dangoras9152]

Yeah full power and maybe some blue smoke .... Its time someone put it to a full test not just to see it installed like engineer 775....

[@johnlandano4328]

good answer to a stupid question. I lived in Framingham for 16 years. Love Mass. I understand now that the battery is only to supply power for a few hours. Got it. If you had to start today with a liberal cash budget, what kind of system would you put together for a roof top system. Panels ,inverter, batteries etc. I have a garage with a free wall to hang equipment. The same wall where the outside meter is located. We consume 1,560 KWH a month and have a Tesla Model X. I charge the Model X mostly at a near by Supper Charger Station because I get it for Free. But do use the home charger on occasion. Don

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Hi Neighbor. (BTW, is it John or Don?) My personal projects are all off grid, and ground mount. When building on your roof, you will need to comply with panel-level rapid shutdown. Then, to add a battery system it would probably be AC coupled, utilizing micro-inverters on the roof. For AC coupling you can use the Sol-Ark, Outback Radian, Schneider XW+, or SMA Sunny Islands. The SMA Sunny Islands are better at handling loads than the Sol-Ark, but both have their own merits and quirks. In my opinion, there is no perfect option for Grid-tied, Roof mount, and battery backup. Personally I'd plan it out with Enphase micro-inverters on the roof, and SMA sunny Islands in the garage, but I'd seek a solar installer to make the plan and check with local code official before buying the equipment. If the local inspector says "NO" then you have to look at a different product. I do a lot with Lithium batteries, but that's because I run them off grid. If you plan to have your battery bank sit 99% of the time, and only cycle when there is a power outage, then I'd buy AGM: www.altestore.com/store/deep-cycle-batteries/sealed-agm-batteries/kilovault-2100-plc-2100wh-180-ah-12v-advanced-agm-battery-p41443/ I have a friend who runs his own solar business, local to us, and I'd suggest hiring him: www.intelligent.solar/

[@johnlandano4328]

@@DavidPozEnergy Thanks so much. I will keep you up to date. Don

[@gerrygreen3832]

​@@DavidPozEnergy First, I have enjoyed a number of your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge/experience. I assume you recommended microinverters for a rooftop solution because you later mentioned the battery bank sitting 99% of the time. If one was to size the battery bank to handle the dusk-to-dawn energy draw plus some wiggle room (so that the batteries would be charging and discharging daily, and the wiggle room would allow you to handle outages of a couple days as long as you get some production from the solar panels), then wouldn't it be better (less conversion loss) to use a DC coupled solution (say, the Sol-Ark, with Tigo TS4-A-2F for rapid shutdown (lots cheaper than microinverters), and DC coupled LiFePO4 batteries like yours)? And if you use one of the newer solar panels that have some shade mitigation built in (like, say, Solaria), then as long as you have only minor shading issues, a skilled solar designer could use the panel mitigation attributes and the MPPTs in the Sol-Ark to minimize shading losses. With a system like this, you minimize total draw from the grid, can still be grid-tied to sell back any excess wattage, get near-zero electric bills, reduce stress on the power grid, have short term power backup, and if you want guaranteed longer term backup, Sol-Ark says you can easily add a backup generator (portable or standby). I'm not some Sol-Ark fanboy. Like Don/John, I'm just trying to decide which system would be best, which would then greatly influence which installer I choose (I live in Central NJ: not sure where you two "neighbors" are). Sol-Ark is a contender and would easily be in the lead if they didn't store all user data on servers in mainland China (evidently verified on message boards which also claim system updates come from China as well). I emailed Sol-Ark over a month ago asking if this was true and if they have plans to change it. Zero response. Not even acknowledgement that they got my email. So much for "fanatical customer support". Maybe that means *after* you purchase a system.

[@bertelmcdermott8916]

For sure the growatt is the best

[@DIYwithBatteries]

It looks awesome 👍

[@sams5803]

David what are going for a full blown power plant?! I love it! You always have the best inverter videos.

[@wayne8113]

Thanks David

[@stuarthelgerson403]

Great video David, thanks for your excellent work. You mentioned the loose terminal burned out your surge protector. Curious, did you have a surge protector connected to each whole leg of 120 to protect against possible loss of the auto transformer? Or was it a surge protector for an individual appliance. I'm also working on a auto transformer system and am looking for protection possibilities. Thanks!

[@DavidPozEnergy]

It was a whole house surge protector in my main breaker panel.

[@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity]

That is why I have them for my 350-400V solar input, 48V LFE bank, AC output and generator inputs.

[@dcuste]

@@DavidPozEnergy I am very disappointed that switch failed you. I was hoping to use them. Is there any way to fix them? Do you know where I can get a similar switch that is better made?

[@MrButuz]

I wouldnt be messing around with any of these budget units myself those two big yellow beasts are all you need for 24/7 reliability. Sad to see them unplugged!

[@libertarian1637]

Would like to see your leg to ground as well as leg to neutral. Been an electrician for decades and loved seeing a person rocking Craftsman Professional linesmen pliers; they’ve been my go to for years as, outside of Knipex, have the best handles and performance.

[@DavidTaylor-hk9ir]

I would like to see you run an electric stove oven combo, Thankyou .

[@ralphg3315]

One thing I noticed that you didn't mention is that the solar does not need batteries to run

[@onthelake9554]

Growatts don't either.

[@easylooker]

I knew the solark shutting down was gonna happen. You need 2 or more of them to work without shutting down. I've heard of people tying in an autotransformer into them to help with current sharing between L1 and L2.

[@kevinhawthorne5257]

Great Video!

[@robertlepage8443]

Great content!…..is there such a thing as a 3 pole dual position disconnect?…..I would like to separate the grid input to my breaker box from the generator input to the breaker box……..thanks for your help on this…….

[@wahlmanc]

Can you share what settings you used for the Gyll batteries in the Solark setup?