Solder wire - Low vs High Quality

Cheap solder, it's Not 60/40 alloy, maybe 10/90 or other alloy for reduce cost
Some good brands : Asahi, Electroloy, Lodestar, Mechanic, Kester, ...
Asahi : goo.gl/kzRtrs
Electroloy : goo.gl/NTNJLU
Lodestar : goo.gl/r8g2yt
Mechanic : goo.gl/dXzFDn
Kester : goo.gl/mxkirH
Music : Good Starts - Jingle Punks, Daily Beetle - Kevin MacLeod

[@albertpolak786]

Let me tell you a story. Once upon a time a crafty little boy, about 10, wanted to start soldering in projects. One day, his mother got him a large, but kinda cheap soldering kit for birthday. He was super excited, and ran right up to his room to start tinkering with it. But what you know, no matter how much he tried, he couldn't do shit. Not even after watching countless videos and reading even more articles he figured out what the hell was going on. He was frustrated and dissapointed. Only after about 3 years from then, after meeting another electronics geek he tried soldering with different tools. And what you know - it worked fine. He took about a 4 inch piece of that solder and tried it at home. It worked. In all that time he could have been working on great projects, had the manufacturer put about 20c of worth into the solder quality. Yeah, I was pretty damn furious. But at least now I can solder.

[@therealb888]

And now I am in that boy's shoes!.

[@jakegarrett8109]

I've used plumbing solder for many years on electrical projects (huge 5mm diameter, no flux core, lead free for brazing/soldering water pipes). I did ok with that and my $5 30w (rated 60, but I checked and its 30w at the wall), but recently I was using some electrical solder, and man do I look like a professional!

[@emmanuelfernando7939]

loss of 3 years . damn. so much creativity lost.

[@idrissli5739]

good

[@ado3247]

When i was around 11 i took a 12 volt adapter and tried to make my own soldering iron. I attached thick copper wires to a thin pen spring. The spring glowed orange. Unfortunately i didnt have any solder, so i could only de-solder

[@SkorpyoTFC]

"My solder is so good I can see myself in it" is such a flex.

[@ducksonplays4190]

"My solder is so good I can see myself in it" is such a flux.*

[@mrjpz]

@@ducksonplays4190 was gonna say the same thing

[@ducksonplays4190]

@@mrjpz XD

[@ducksonplays4190]

@ ya sure?

[@ducksonplays4190]

@ ok then

[@NamelesGhost]

To everyone who doesnt know the issue here: If the solder crystalizes you end up with what we call a "cold" solder connection, which leads to cracking of the solder and eventually failure of the connection. Also hand soldering at 400 ° C is just not managable with IC's because the package tends to melt.

[@devaithanagarajah3666]

Hahahshshs

[@richardzhang7954]

This is why IC holders were invented

[@phr3ui559]

@@richardzhang7954send link

[@rodrigosilva7396]

@@richardzhang7954 Holders will not prevent the IC plastic package to melt at such unnecessarily high temperatures. 400ºC should not be needed in true 60/40 solder.

[@kikook222]

@@rodrigosilva7396 That's not even tackling how a lot of modern tech uses SMD components.

[@stingerbold9327]

Now i got it !!!! It is not my soldering iron problem it is solder wire. Thank you for this video

[@FaizGTstudio]

Back in 2015 I was trying to fix my ps3 controller. When I'm soldering the wire the solder did not stick to the components nor the soldering iron but it melts and turn into a ball it's so difficult soldering wire to circuit board. first i thinking it my soldering iron fault.. And it end up buying a new controller..

[@purwantopewete17]

Don't forget the flux, because as good as any tin solder the result aren't perfect without flux

[@Stealthsilent1337]

You need pure metal surfaces and some coating so all the indredients dont oxidize

[@andreilucian10]

Flux on soldering is like lubricant on sex :))

[@l0k048]

@@andreilucian10 just don't use it as sex lubricant

[@dsboy2392]

me who has used a soldering iron like 2 times in my life: hmmm interesting

[@armaganboi]

vruh

[@ApofKol]

me who doesn't even know what a soldering iron is: hmmmmmmm

[@51metehan]

@@ApofKol me that uses soldering iron 4 times at a week 💀💀

[@remigiusznowak7277]

@@ApofKol wait rly?

[@CheerfulNE]

I feel ya brah

[@mineown1861]

This eloquently answers the question "it's just solder, how bad can it be ?"

[@Pops180]

The cheap stuff looks like lead free without flux

[@shinevisionsv]

Mmm, i wonder if some Cheap solder, actually IS lead free, sold as 60/40? wouldn't surprise me if that was the case.

[@Pops180]

shinevision sv looks like lead free, melts like lead free, must be lead free

[@shinevisionsv]

Yep!

[@Androkavo]

Exactly, looks like lead free, but need higher temperature than lead free. I think it's Sn10Pb90 for reduce cost

[@shinevisionsv]

Yeah, that wouldn't surprise me, Thanks for the video! didn't know cheap solder could be fakes like this!

[@nazimelon6653]

I was gonna comment "oh how bad could it be, i used cheaper solder before" bzut appearently, i have not used CHEAP solder before.

[@Daiceto]

yea that stuff looked ... uhm.. like cheap bubblegum that crumbles in your mouth :D

[@alvarodiaz2221]

Lol, yes, this video convinced me I'm not going cheap enough...

[@rasmadrak]

Haha, same. Apparantly the cheap stuff I usually buy is at least of so-so quality. This was horrible to watch. :'D

[@nazimelon6653]

@off spec uhm Its exactly what the title and the thumnail said tho

[@ashscott6068]

Since the internet came along and internet shopping took off, a certain country that rhymes with China, has been spamming out counterfeit crap and nobody cares to do anything about it.. In fact, a lot of random Joes in the West, set up their own business, and all teh ydo is hire a storage unit, buy in bulk knock-off crap from that country, and re-sell it on the internet out of their own country, to people who don't even know they're buying fake crap. Ebay is especially bad for it. If the business address is a storage unit, or a small office unit on an industrial estate, or sometimes even a residential property, steer way clear.

[@Waylander131]

Aha! That's why my soldering was mirror-shiny 20 years ago and now everything I do looks like chickenshit.

[@hraharahra]

with 60/40?

[@transcendedanal7307]

Yeah just make sure you're getting a trust worthy brand and you should be all set.

[@tydshiin5783]

@@hraharahra I think its about the lower Lead value in the solder

[@MMuraseofSandvich]

Lead free alloys will tend to have a higher melting point and will usually have a less shiny appearance (SAC is notorious for this). There are some Sn99 alloys that are almost as shiny as leaded solder, but they require precise formulas that a cheap knockoff brand won't bother with. It is possible to get quality joints with lead free, but you do have to adjust your workflow to get there. Use solder from reputable brands like Kester or MG, boost the temperature, keep the tip well tinned, don't breathe in the flux vapor, and have some extra flux ready to go. If you don't want to worry about tin whiskers, exposing your lungs to excess flux, or brittle joints, and you're not selling products under RoHS regulations, just go with leaded solder.

[@AlphaMachina]

I have this vintage solder from Montgomery Ward "Wards Powr-Kraft" 30/70 tin/lead solder from the 1960's I presume. This stuff leaves a seriously beautiful, shiny, reflective finish on the solder joint. I don't use it, but did want to test it out when I found it in my grandfather's old toolbox. I have a lot of his tools now, have been working on restoring some of them, trying to at least keep them from rusting or rotting away. A little off subject, obviously, but.. my favorite, though, is this "American" brand bamboo and brass bubble level manufactured in 1948. It was covered in grease and oil, the brass tarnished black. So I cleaned the brass with jewelry cleaner and sanded the bamboo down to remove the grease stains and soften some of the edges that had been chipped and gouged. Went 220, 300, 450, 600, and 800 grit paper, and then coated it with Minwax polyurethane finish. Now I just need to replace the hard vinyl seals around the viewing glass and some of the panes of glass as well to get it good enough. Not perfect, but I wanted to retain some of the wear on it, and I honestly don't have the skill to get it back to new, anyway. Eh, I guess I just get sentimental. Some pics of it via Google Drive: drive.google.com/open?id=1pVrpt7U-Vzl7h_tIR9kA17psU-KLtn7D

[@googledeathsquad7921]

Awesome man! It`s nice to see someone restoring something like that.

[@yunkshione-1016]

I always knew it was the solder wire! Now I've just confirmed it!

[@inc2000glw]

How to get it not to stick on the green part??

[@yunkshione-1016]

@@inc2000glw use Flux. Even without it, it wouldn't stick to the pcb(you can always get it off with a fingernail)

[@Open6a-fx4qf]

It’s better to give small amount of tin to the solder then adding another tin on the place u want to solder.. it’s more effective to make the tin gone liquid

[@ajantakumari4252]

Yes me too

[@mjyanimations1062]

thats sounds like bad solder mask

[@Sizifus]

Yeah, you may pay more for the solder, but a good solder will help you solder stuff bellow 300C, which means minimizing the risk of damaging components and drops the power consumption needed for soldering. It also looks better and doesn't piss you off with poor melting, not to mention, saving some time in the process.

[@silenceman3116]

For those who didnt understand and said just make the iron soldering hotter and it will be same The problem is not all component can handle such a heat like micro switch it will be broken if you soldering it for such high temperature

[@howardlam6181]

And oxidation of the ironing tip. and lifting pads. And the poor fluidy means you have to apply it for longer for it to flow. Meaning spreading the heat further. It's one effect multiplied by another effect. Exponential! BOOM

[@engindzhanhalmi769]

0:42 I remember the low quality solder they gave us back in school with the awfully treated soldering iron head. But atleast i've learn something fun and usefull in school with that class.

[@f.d.6667]

We were given three pieces of wire - all the same diameter. Two were galvanized steel, the other one a length of solder. The guy next to me soldered the *soldering* wire to the steel wire and then continued (or tried to) use the remaining steel wire as solder... I think he became an insurance guy later on in life ;-)

[@hariranormal5584]

Parents or ANYONE what they get wrong is; "we are trying this for the first time, hence pick a cheap one as we will see how it is"

[@oneeyedrone4293]

Solder with flux will make a huge difference, regardless of the brand so thats a key item to know too. Also a lot of people buy solder from the plumbing department at home depot to use on electronics lol. Completely different applications. My vote goes to KESTER products, nice shiny welds all day long.

[@lepidoptera9337]

63/37 is 63/37. The only difference is how much flux is in there, which becomes completely irrelevant once you solder with external flux. Anybody who blames bad solder joints on the solder simply doesn't know what they are doing.

[@DoktrDub]

I’ve quality welds too :)

[@oneeyedrone4293]

@@lepidoptera9337 sure why not, just like all tools are the same, just different colors :) i disagree that all solder is the same. Clearly some brands do it better. Do whatever works for you, but quality solder will always win.

[@wolw66]

Check out German Stannol. You can get pretty much any mix you want with the flux of your choice.

[@lepidoptera9337]

​@brake_4_cake​There is solder for different applications. Multi-core solder was always a must for the bench. If you can't afford the couple of bucks more over single core solder, then just get a couple ounces of solder flux in a small jar. It will last you for years unless you are in a production environment. Dip the solder into it before use. Problem solved. Seriously, this ain't rocket science and it's not solvable with brand consciousness. It's simply a matter of experience. What I also like to do is to get the thinnest solder there is and twist it myself (4-16 strands) into a thicker strand. That makes for the best multi-core solder imaginable. It's even better when dipped into flux because it wicks up even more of it.

[@tablatronix]

I just saw that first solder on ebay, over 3,000 sold...

[@bullfrog098]

tablatronix rip

[@originalmianos]

tablatronix I got some, very similar results. Needs 390C. It was a surprise.

[@l3p3]

I use that cheapest solder for years now and I never had any problems with it. What do I care about the visuals?

[@tablatronix]

L3 P3 i think the crystallization is the problem.

[@JustinTopp]

L3 P3 it just needs higher temps

[@leonardoocchipinti8011]

This my first day soldering, after a day to struggle to solder just two wires, i understand that the wire that they gave me with the welder was shit! Thank you !

[@FraJa1980]

Your soldering skills are on point, even with the cheap stuff you get a nice blob.

[@Null_Experis]

A good quality solder will do better at lower temps. I use Kester 60/40 44 and it solders beautifully at 275c for standard stuff. Great for delicate work on single sided boards when you don't want to lift a trace. I only need to go higher when I'm working on a big ground plane.

[@richardszabo9216]

I use Kester solder wires too, and i love them.

[@BoredGeese]

In high school, we were taught how to do this. I was always frustrated on why I always do a bad solder. And that was it. It was bad solder! I realized that when I asked for some solder from my pal and it turned out fine! Dang it!

[@98hundy]

based on the temps and appearance of the finished joint I would say the first solder was 10/88/2 (SN/PB/AG) this is a high temp solder alloy used to connect leads to components such as capacitors and resistors.

[@addydiesel6627]

Wrong. The first soldier is lead free, not 80% Pb!!!

[@MaximusPanin]

I have not seen a more beautiful soldering video :)

[@ronniepirtlejr2606]

If you ever find yourself in a bind and you're out of solder, They have a really good solder at Home Depot... it's made by "Harris" Electrical solder 60/40. You won't be disappointed!

[@chveyk]

The first solder is lead-free, 220 degrees, the second is 60/40 180 degrees. Just sorted the labels of the coils when sorting. And check the temperature sensor of the soldering iron - at 300 degrees on the tip, both of these solders must pass liquidus!

[@ca1vin]

the "low quality" solder looks like lead-free solder... hence the higher "melting temp".

[@Stealthsilent1337]

Sn’s melting temp is 230 and pb’s is 320. Its probably low quality metal mixed it. With a lot of unwanted stuff

[@alexivanov2891]

@@Stealthsilent1337 Maybe I read you wrong... 61-63% Sn + Pb melting 183°, less than pure Sn. What he's trying to say that making lead-free solder is tricky and most cases lead-free melting temperature is much higher, making soldering process harder and stressful for PCB and components. That is exactly what we see in the video. If it would be cheap but genuine 60/40 solder then it would be no problem at all.

[@mattewlefty991]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I would pre tin the tip of the soldering iron before doing everything because with a tinned tip the heat distributes better

[@3mar00ss6]

and I thought I was bad at soldering .... it was the damn wire

[@Vinni-2K]

same i need to get a better one

[@Micksoffthings]

I leave this under every video I watched, it helps the algorithm. ..

[@topaz-rn]

Thanks man, I got the recommendation because of you.

[@Dodgyvision]

Best solder Eutectic 63/37 Clean tip prior to next soldering then wet Do not remove tip while soldering, feed solder in Do not touch tip on any thermoplastics, leaving melted plastics on the tip this will eat into the plating making tip wetting harder

[@AsraWasTaken]

Christ, I thought the soldering irons that I kept on replacing had issues. I've bought like over 5 of them. Didn't know that soldering wire was also a factor until I came across this video. Thank you YT algorithm for recommending this. Gonna replace that crappy solder wire I bought.

[@ivangutowski]

Great video, really clear. I made the mistake if using my dad;s decent solder for years then buying the cheap stuff and thinking it was all the same. Huge difference in results so only buying decent kit now.

[@DomenicDatti]

I watched your cheap solder attempts and it looks very much like what I'm going through with my new solder... I thought it might be the new station I bought too but now I'm thinking it's the solder... I'll have to look for better now.

[@giorgiocanal1659]

The first one is a lead-free wire. The frosty looking of the final result is not a sign of a bad solder joint, it's the standard looking of that type of alloy. About the test on PTH components, the result of the first wire at higher temperature is definitely better than the other one. This is because those pins are lead-free plated and soldering them with a 60/40 alloy at low temperature makes impossible to get a good wetting of the pin.

[@sangletan7076]

Yeah, but for some reason it's labelled 60/40. I'm kinda confused.

[@Geopholus]

The comments are full of confusion over the issues, which are two different things. European Union solder which has no lead in it and is mostly tin, has been developed to reduce the chance of lead getting into the environment, by having it leech out of landfills into water from electro trash. The main problem is not that it is cheap,.. it IS MORE expensive, and has been carefully engineered to overcome it's basic flaw, which is it's failure to make a nice amorphic intermetallic "eutectic" material that doesn't form crystals or have grain boundaries. 60 % tin/ 40 % lead (old Style electrical solder) works best when used properly for the electronic circuits it was developed for. The old style plumbing solder which is 60 % lead and 40% tin (and is very dangerous for plumbing and electronics because the lead easily corrodes and leeches out of the joints) was cheaper, and luckily is mostly no longer available. Since I learned to solder back in about 1960 , i am very familiar with the difficulties of trying to solder with old style plumbing solder ! Never do that. The new European Union solder, although environmentally safe , is difficult to use and even when done expertly does not work as well, as old style 60 % tin/ 40 % lead. There are many different formulas for lead free solder, but no one seems to have found one that works as well as conventional 60/40. Rosin flux always helps to de-oxidize the soldering process, and helps the solder to flow. Do not use "acid core flux" or zinc chloride fluxes for electronic work.

[@Geopholus]

@@sangletan7076 perhaps in this case it is "counterfeit", simply mislabeled in order to sell it.

[@Ea-Nasir_Copper_Co]

@@sangletan7076 That's why he calls it counterfeit.

[@Acecool]

Actually, you can get shiny results by letting it cool down slower. ie: low temp and heat the metals instead of sticking solder on the end. It is one thing to add a bit to the tip to tin, and another to melt it on there and scrape it onto the contact thinking that's a good weld when it isn't. The solder should flow onto the surfaces. If you are having an issue with it not ending up shiny, then it is cooling too fast. This can happen if the temperatures you are using are too high and also if you pull the iron away too quickly. For some, they react better when they can have a bit of ambiet heat as you slowly pull the tip out and leave it in the area after out of the solder. I can get quite shiny results with lead-free solder because of practice and noticing what worked and what didn't. Originally, it didn't look great.

[@Acecool]

And as others say, you can have a great connection without the surface being shiny. Again, the insides will cool slower than the outsides so it is pretty difficult to create a bad solder joint... The first few looked like cold solder joints - ie: you were heating the solder on the tip, not heating the pads and then applying the solder to the pads. Or you were heating it just enough, but they were wicking thee heat away faster than your soldering iron could provide it for that ratio of metal.

[@apexmike849]

For homebrew stuff, use lead/tin 60/40 - it won't poison you - that's lead salts. Wear gloves, goggles and a mask if you are that bothered.

[@AnoNymous-dh2sv]

*tin/lead (when you say 60/40 40 is the lead)

[@sovietrepublic38]

Agreed!! To be exact, 63/37 eutectic alloy gets the lowest melting point as well as shinny appearance and hence easy to operate.

[@nometechnologysanddesigns5385]

I just have a computer fan running of a 9volt battery

[@pavelkudrhalt8592]

@@nometechnologysanddesigns5385 Nice to know

[@in-sympathy-old]

I can see everyone pretty much hates lead free stuff - I’m a complete beginner in this field, but I don’t have any of the issues I see in many of the vids with lead free solder - use Cynel products from Poland and those are just fine 🤷🏻‍♂️ Set up my Hakko 888D to 350 degrees Celsius and man it’s a joy to work 👍🏻 P.S.: as Jessa Jones would say, “Add more flux!” 😃 P.P.S.: be careful choosing a proper flux - I’ve slowly destroyed quite a few perfectly well soldered projects because of the wrong flux that said “no clean” but later turned out to corrode half of the board and render it useless

[@AlexAwwesome]

Actually, gloss/matte surface is caused by type of a flux, not by solder. Same solder with a different flux will have different finish, look at Asahi catalogs for example. So it's not a sign of a good or bad solder wire. And matte always preferable as it is easier to spot defects in soldering, glossy gives much glare and harder to inspect. Although glossy looks sexier. :)

[@NinoJoel]

Alex Awwesome The solder in the beginning of the video is crystallizing. Wich causes "cold solder joints" that will eventually cause the electronics to fail. I actually had some of the solder tha was showed in the beginning of the video and it makes almost no difference adding other flux.

[@Chroniquesdemaker]

No, I can assure you that the quality of the flux that you add will never change the appearance of your solder, but it is the quality and the composition of your tin (with silver or copper) that will make the difference + / - Lead say as much as if you buy good solder wire you will not even need to add flux to solder! and the solder will be shining like a mirror!

[@rich1051414]

In this case, the matte surface is caused by chaotic crystal growth. This encourages brittleness, but that isn't the end of the world, but that is what the 'matte' finish represents, brittle crystal growth.

[@devaithanagarajah3666]

@@Chroniquesdemaker I

[@Geopholus]

Solder is not "wire" it's solder. The best solder for electrical work is eutectic which means it forms an amorphic intermetallic, that flows smoothly and melts easily and "wicks" into the joint at a low temperature, and stays shiney and very conductive when allowed to cool naturally and is 60-63 % tin, and the rest is mostly lead 37-40 %. Good solder also has rosin flux in several holes that run through its center which keeps the wire and iron from oxidizing. The second solder is the right stuff. The first solder does not melt and flow immediately. Yes there is crystallization going on. In the last 20 years or so there has been an effort to use European Union solder which is lead free, called RoHs. That could be good for the environment, but bad for the longevity of the circuit, and solder effectiveness. The best of these Rohs solders are mostly tin, and have usually some zinc and antimony, and several other possible metals to lower the melting point , and make it more user friendly. However It can be more expensive than ( the 'Good" stuff) conventional 60/40 solder because it uses mostly tin. But tin by itself, presents problems, first off it has a much higher melting temp, secondly unless combined with other materials it grows very thin long "whisker" crystals of tin spontaneously over the course of time, that break in the slightest breeze or jarring movement and fowl up the electronics by conducting between other parts of the circuit. Also non Eutectic solders have about a hundred times faster failure rate. they become less conductive, over the course of time.

[@marc49lewis]

I can remember an article several years ago where NASA had forbidden the use of lead-free solder for anything connected with space vehicle electronics for just the reason you noted; whiskers potentially causing catastrophic failures in space. There was some mention about the rampant growth of the "whiskers" in zero-gravity vacuum environments.

[@andresouza616]

when you say "low quality" you REAL MEAN LOW QUALITY jeeesus

[@jacob9934]

That’s funny. Even though the first brand of solder says it’s 60/40, it’s texture appears the same as lead free solder. Then the second brand has the correct shiny texture. Good video :)

[@akashkumaradventure7591]

i never saw soldering from that much zoom ....amazing

[@kitsukeita]

I feel really bad for decent/mid quality manufacturers whose whole industry was destroyed by cheap and low quality Chinese counterfeits.

[@avejst]

Thanks for sharing 😀👍 Seams as lead free solder, and BAD flux..

[@DoktrDub]

I’ve got a roll of that cheap solder in my workshop for some quick through hole work, I’m sure it’s basically the same stuff, it works fine as long as I have my iron excessively hot and gives a solid hot joint.. and it caused a ton of issues and headaches trying more technical work with it. You should also point out to people not to get fooled by low quality solders advertising “shiny chrome-like finish” as that is not a specific good indicator of quality solder, they tend to use a composition that allows that to happen even though it’s not that good.

[@tw0123456789]

I've been using the cheap one for a long time. No wonder every time I do the SMD soldering it just keeps failing like the one in the video.

[@andreashahmann2760]

no SMD in Video !

[@KokoroKatsura]

A N I M E N I M E

[@ryanpascual9598]

@@KokoroKatsura B A B A Y E R E R

[@statinskill]

@@ryanpascual9598 SATOR AREPO TENET OPERA ROTAS

[@jms019]

At the museum where I help out we do soldering classes. Problems are 1) cheap soldering irons 2) lead-free (though decent) solder 3) the kit boards with proper ground planes. I sometimes naughtily hand out proper solder

[@Airman..]

Excellent demonstration .. i use Kester

[@GuitarGodgt]

Yep I use Kester as well. Really great stuff. Totally worth the price.

[@onzkicg]

Thanks! I always thought my soldering iron has issues now I know it’s the cheap led Im using.

[@ronniepirtlejr2606]

Thank you..... I really appreciate it!!! You have saved me a lot of searching!

[@keithsummers2842]

Andrew Hudson probably has it right. It's almost a challenge to get normal leaded solder today in China. It is much easier and probably cheaper to get the lead free stuff - and that material has a high-temperature melting point and doesn't look very nice after the process is over. Leaded solder is easier to work with and looks shinier.

[@SidneyCritic]

The cheap stuff solders exactly like high tin solder, ie needs more temp and has matt white crystalline structure, so you can bet it's not 60/40. You should try 99% tin, it's impossible no matter who makes it.

[@und4287]

Or it's 90/10 lead/tin, because tin isn't cheap

[@xcloudx01alt]

Oh hey that pile of mush at 0:50 looks just like my "60/40" chinese brand wire too! I was wondering why I couldn't get it to work at all. It must be fake

[@UpenShenoy]

I was blowing on my screen to cool the solder liquid to solidify faster, then I realised I wasn't soldering. Lol

[@paulzaim7900]

Upen Shenoy 😂😂😂

[@mikaelkarlsson9945]

Blowing on a solder joint to cool it off is big NO NO. It affects the reliability of the bond and might cause cracks later on.

[@UpenShenoy]

Mikael Karlsson wow, never knew that. A new lesson learnt, a habit to curb. Thanks

[@atif8221]

Upen Shenoy.. 😂😂😂😂😂lol

[@jambozx]

why would you need to blow on it when it doesn't even take seconds to solidify again

[@dimasnameee23]

I thought i was doing something wrong. Turns out it’s the wire!! Thanks!

[@71dembonesTV]

Well done! That first one made me sick LOL

[@disguisedcat1750]

It makes me want to vomit ngl

[@sooshyt]

This guy soldering result looks way more better than my hand writting

[@grapsorz]

looks like some sort of zink/tin alloy. not lead.

[@honkhonk8009]

Yeah it's lead free

[@theodorepollock1273]

Or silver solder

[@MCircuits]

The cheap stuff is actually a 63/37 and needs higher temperature to melt which is very bad on semiconductors but very good on high amps traces.

[@Josh.Davidson]

No. 63/37 is 183C. It just all melts around the same vs the 60/40 which the melting point varies a little bit. It looks like cheap leaded stuff or possibly lead free.

[@slybunda]

damn i thought i had a crap soldering iron that didnt get hot enough to do good soldering. after watching this i went to toolstation and bought some branded silverline 60/40 solder and guess what. i not go proper solder joints. the crap solder that i got of ebay is faulty.

[@DanielCardei]

15+ years of soldering and even today i solder but on a different level. the one that you do i can guarantee you that none gave a crap what i used. i repaired motherboards and all kinds of stuff and people was curious about only one thing. how fast is it done and if can make it 30% cheaper no matter what price. the person who taught me said there will be a time when you have to solder with HOT NAIL. He meant with crap tools and what material you have.

[@imprezzs1864]

I looked at the thumbnail and I tought it was an airplane and some dude looking out the window.

[@deepak0148]

Same here!

[@ggmen6340]

Generally speaking, the melting point of good tin wire is relatively high, lead wire

[@mohammedmujeebuddin8409]

can we talk about how perfectly the metal moulds itself without spilling

[@c4k3t0otz6]

I've only soldered a few things in my life so far and I used cheap Wal-Mart iron and solder, now I know why it was such a pain in the ass to melt most the time

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

Hi, I want to prevent than shiny effect of a soldering joint is not a solid gage of quality. Manufacturers know this, and the " shiny effect of joint" is known like a " marketing reason". You can have a very good quality soldering without any shiny effect. But we are all agree than shiny soldering joint is finaly a better visual. For those wondering what are the best solder quality brand, you need to know than each country is able to build a good quality solder. Malaisie, France, USA, Japan, just don't buy solder coming from China, wich purpose is to sell at the maximum, despite of the quality.

[@Gusttafa]

I managed this shiny state when I didnt burn it too long. If you heat it too long, you will get that not shiny shit.

[@ANTALIFE]

If you are dealing with lead free solder then you will get a matte/non-shiny finish if the quality of solder is good. A more shiny finish usually means a higher tin content, which in turn means a high chance of facing tin whiskers down the life of the product.

[@DLTX1007]

There are fantastic solders coming out of china. And yes, dull solder joints with LEAD is just awful. They guarantee poor contact and is definitely a visual way with lead solder. Of course, lead free is anyone's guess.

[@Asyncpromise]

You sound like my wife

[@brianhennebeul1854]

Yes, because most products have their electronics exposed/visible, so having shiny joints is purely for aesthetic reasons, and hence, it is a marketing thing. Jesus Christ.

[@guspaz]

If you want an easier time, buy 63/37 instead of 60/40 (much easier to work with, goes directly from liquid to solid without the tricky plastic stage in between), use lead solder and not lead-free, and use (to begin with) rosin core solder and flux instead of noclean core solder and flux. And use supplemental flux as necessary, don't just rely on the flux in the solder core. I prefer working with noclean, but it's a bit more difficult to work with, so get experience with rosin first.

[@samfkt]

Ok and what suggestion is for me? I am forced to use lead free solder, leaded is forbidden an unavaliable where I live.

[@guspaz]

​@@samfkt It's still possible to get lead solder for hobbyist use in most places that ban it, like the EU. You may find it easier to import from the UK or elsewhere.

[@MrLuc420]

Here I always thought the problem was my cheap soldering iron...

[@Florreking]

When you soldered the throughthole pins it seems as if the low quality solder wetted the surface a little bit better.

[@iantcroft]

Is the best solder in your video Electroloy? Didn't realise there was such a difference in quality of solder. Where can I get some?

[@Androkavo]

Some good brands : Asahi, Electroloy, Lodestar, Mechanic, Kester, ... if in US, you can buy Kester on amazon, some other brands have only at local store

[@JGnLAU8OAWF6]

Multicore too. There is a LOT of Asahi counterfeit.

[@iantcroft]

Thanks. I have purchased some Mechanic solder.

[@ColHogan-le5yk]

Androkavo I was like "That's kind of shilly" Until you recommended other brands 😂

[@johnchase8510]

+Ian, Kester and Multicore have been around forever, and are extremely high quality. I have used Kester for over 30 years in the audio business without any issues. A 1 pound spool of Kester 44 Rosin core 63/37, .031" should last a DIYer for years. Why skimp on the bond that connects everything, and keeps the tip of expensive irons in tip top condition (pun intended).

[@untrust2033]

Thought I was crap at soldering, destroyed 2 soldering iron tips, then I got a 250g roll of 60en 0.5mm multicore leaded solder and have never looked back Best purchase in ages, same soldering iron tip shiny years later

[@blackdevil72]

Thank you for the great exemple. Unfortunatly as a biginner and hobyist I'm kind of stuck with cheap chinesse solder at the moment. That's because here quality solder is really expensive a lot of store greatly inflate the prices (from 5 to 10€ for 50g of 60/40 solder) and ordering online has not been really conlusive. Postage service added to the price of a good solder on internet imported from a neighboring country isn't cheap either. When I watch videos here on youtube and people tell the price they pay good solder I don't think they realise how lucky they are (for exemple 15 to 20€ for a 100g roll while I'll pay 25 to 35€) So I've paid myself one of these expensive good solder I only use on serious project (for exemple the 70's turntable I've found in a dumpster that only needed recap and changing some crusty wires), and I use the cheap chinesse one for everything else (playing around prototyping, doing cheap ebay project to train myself, etc). But honestly I'd prefere anytime using better solder.

[@danijel124]

blackdevil72 Try to look on online second hand ads (from other people) Ive bought 2kg of quality german solder from one guy for 25€ ;)

[@blackdevil72]

I'll try to look at this because honestly the local electronic store or the hardware store inflate the price so much its insane. For exemple I've seen a simple munual desoldering pump sold 10€. I asked if it was a mistake on the label and it wasn't. Worst I've found the exect same pump on ebay sold 2€ with postage fees included and I'm sure at that price the seller was still making a good profit.

[@MrSingaporeproductio]

my local hardware store only sells lead free solder :(

[@juhanasiren6824]

And mine only sells leaded which I already have enough for a lifetime... Can we swap stores?

[@ABaumstumpf]

Juhan - why would you need lead-free solder?

[@jestes7]

I just started soldering and noticed the same thing. Watched all these videos and even read the reviews. Problem is I didn’t read the negative reviews. Apparently I’m not the only one with hazy joints.

[@hornattila]

the solder wire at my school is something between these two

[@shiphorns]

If you start with the premise that the cheap solders are some alloy of primarily tin and lead (likely), then a simple density test can be used to get a pretty good idea of what the ratio is. Measure the volume via displacement in water, measure mass on a small scale, do the algebra to solve for what ratio of tin (5.75 g/cm3) and lead (11.29 g/cm3) gives your measured density value.

[@samdeur]

wow what a difference . good to keep in mind.. never go for that cheap stuff.. as a noob i'm doing research and found that it's easier more forgiven to use ​ Sn63Pb37 instead of 60/40... that's what i'm going to use when i start this new hobby keyboard modding / building. i see you have more vids .will subscribe thanks for the nice uploads ..greetings from The Netherlands.

[@necrobynerton7384]

Yea a good solder can make or break a connection as someone kinda stuck not being able to buy some good solder, i just don't even give a second doubt about using the cheap ones i have it is so damn frustrating not being able to easily (and securely) solder and spend hours trying to melt the goddamn solder. sometimes i fear my soldering iron would start melting.

[@samdeur]

@@necrobynerton7384 are you in EU or US ? if your in EU check out tme.eu i just looked and they still have sum Sn63Pb37 from a brand called broquetas looked on line seems like a legit brand broquetas.com

[@necrobynerton7384]

@@samdeur Thanks, ill check it, and yes im in the EU. Though i can't purchase stuff online (yet) ill have it bookmarked

[@siniestro0239]

how does your come out round and perfect all the time I've done it count less times and the alloy goes all over the place aggh!

[@korbasiewicz]

How about cheap solder + some added flux?

[@fancillluio7544]

The reason for the difference in temperature between the two kinds of solder should be the difference in selenium content.Where temperature requirements are not sensitive, inexpensive ones can be used.

[@AngelArm1110]

wow.. that's kind of an eye opener

[@degreesdegrees-jr4eg]

Try watch . 200 proof the earth is flat by eric dubay

[@albertguo868]

@@degreesdegrees-jr4eg please stop

[@Dr.Al-Haitham]

@@degreesdegrees-jr4eg wtf

[@assassins085]

Fun story,started soldering using cheap ass tools a couple of years ago,talking about lead free solder(it's safer but useless and you'll swear a lot),soldering wires at 400C,fine,soldering connectors? Nah,a few months ago invested in good equipment,60/40 solder,flux,a good soldering station and tips,on something that took me 5 minutes to do,now it takes only 30 seconds or so, don't listen to people who says money can't buy time(it won't but you'll be able to speed up the process),a 300 dollars kit compared to a 20 dollars kit definitely will save swearing and time.

[@techs5564]

loved watching!

[@ConsertandoTudo]

at begin i belived it was only a high melt point, but man, when the solder really melted and cooled full of crack on it, it hurt in my soul

[@rc121crx]

what's up with the children's music?

[@hadiplays5666]

😂😂😂

[@kennystroner7431]

Thanks for putting this video out. I realized I bought some bad solder on Amazon and with it 100 ft of wire. When I was using it, you could just see the solder just hardening on the top of the wire and not even trying to soak in. This is after dipping it in my flux. I used my good solder I have and started with a fresh piece and it soaked right in. I am running at 420° F. which is more then enough to do the job. 368° is what I was taught to use in class and it should work. I like it a little hotter for wires myself and gets the job done quicker. I'd have to turn up my soldering gun to max to get this junk to soak in right. If it even goes high enough, not to mention melting my insulation in the process! Thanks for showing us the difference between quality and crap solder! This stuff is going back to Amazon!

[@MErocle]

thank you so much :) now I know that not all 60/40 the same! Сan you recommend specific solder wire?

[@rich1051414]

Alpha Fry

[@EgorKaskader]

ПОС-60, assuming you live in Russia, is usually a solid bet. The only downside (of the one I have) is that the manufacturer was perhaps *too* generous with the flux core, which causes a bit of a flooding issue when you need a fair bit of solder.

[@gindullin]

@@EgorKaskader ПОС-61* :)

[@toddzino58]

Agree with this video. I'm only ahobbyist, so solder lasts me forever. Kester, MG Chemicals are the only kind I use. A 1/2lb roll of each costs about $10-$12. Gives great results.

[@thomastommy9864]

Looks like MG is over $30 a 1/2lb roll now, while Kester is almost $40 for 1lb.

[@hightttech]

Thank you for the warning. Nice video.

[@pdrg]

Oh I threw away a load of cheap solder - it was like trying to solder with dental fillings, horrible, horrible. Wondered if I'd lost the knack, but picked up my old faithful roll from decades back and it was a dream to use.

[@Acecool]

Old faithful probably has lead.

[@NOBOX7]

awesome video

[@beach-time]

I think I see my noob solder prob. I was cheap. 95.00 Mastek flight control and 4.00 solder. I have once again been reminded that there is a time to be fugal and a time not to be cheap. Frugla = best at least cost. cheap = what ever cost the least regardles of function. Thank you for showing my the error of my ways

[@vova5640]

Великолепно! Если бы уроков снимали больше.

[@diablominero]

The "high quality" one is certainly shinier and melts at a lower temperature, but I'm not in the habit of showing off how shiny my soldering work is to friends, and I don't work with many components the extra temperature would damage. So why is that one better?

[@camper1427]

The thumbnail looks like somebody's forehead with tall ass hair

[@l0k048]

now i can't unsee this. thanks

[@chana100red]

Thank you for the different type of examples set out in the video - Much appreciated!

[@ThePazuzu]

3:35 Helen Hunt! Samuel Jackson! MAAATT DAYMNNN.

[@jonesbbq307]

Don’t you have to put solder on your iron first?

[@TonnyCassidy]

that is why i always use Asahi solder ,not those cheap garbage, and i never even use flux with asahi solders

[@fares3651]

Tonny Cassidy where you bought it from?

[@TonnyCassidy]

WTHbro i know a local distributor for it

[@Mrkevi123]

I'm sure the cheap stuff and the name brand stuff is made in the same chinese factories. Shiny!=Good Quality.

[@fares3651]

Kevin Hinojosa no, i have a shiny solder that just won't melt 😠 i believe bad ratio or mix with other random metals.. because of course they won't clarify it. it goes pasty and if big point like half of the solder will melt other half solid or paste! and yes its shiny AF

[@suppengroove]

man, i love shots of close up soldering :D has that terminator 2 flair, which looks pretty damn rad