Solving the 2 YEAR engine problem - Bums on a Boat Ep 30

[@inward_passage]

Had to search to find this video. I also have an MD2040. Thank you for going to the trouble to make and post these videos. I am glad you are continuing to explore your connection to the ocean. She is a great teacher for us. Fair Winds and Following Seas. 🤙🏼

[@mikeskelly2356]

No loss Joel, you can never do enough maintenance on your engine or hull! At least now, you're more familiar with the power plant...🤗

[@basilreardon5783]

thank you for the heat exchanger insight.....very key for keeping the engine operation cool 👍

[@tedrenard472]

Great video. Another tip is to have a very close look at your heat exchanger core. It should be as clean as a whistle on the INSIDE of those tiny little pipes, so an overnight soak in the acid once a season is a great idea. THEN : block one end of it with sealant or putty, fill it up with water (obviously, with the sealed end lowermost) and let it stand overnight. The core should not leak any water out,(ie the tubes should ALL be full) since this would indicate a holed core tube in the tubestack. This is a (very costly) replacement, unless you know a highly skilled radiator repair man that can repair it for mates rates. It's a fiddly, PITA test to do, but do it once a year and it could prevent an engine replacement, as hot, salty water can trash your engine in no time. Well done for getting on top of it.

[@scottholford470]

Enjoyable...nice normal kind of sailing folks you would want to be sailing with.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Good vid, thanks. I just had my very deteriorated Yanmar heat exchanger rebuilt in S. Africa, at a cost of $250. Someone else had an estimate in the U.S. for the same rebuild for nearly $3,000. Amazing what a foreign radiator/ machine shop can do. Make sure, as I will now do, that you can always get the copper core out of the aluminum housing, well in advance of it getting permanently stuck from corrosion.

[@donnakawana]

I dig that "Cross wakes❗" thing brilliant ! I just am really proud of how you both work together....It's a beautiful thing!❤🌞⛵🌴😊❗

[@tonybell8752]

You got there in the end your engine knowledge an experience that much greater for it. That gasket needs replacing anyway, All good work. You can never know too much about your own engine.

[@benc65753]

Nothing like trial by fire, learning troubleshooting techniques for engines. Excellent job! Hope everything is downhill from here.

[@Bumsonaboat]

benc65753 you got that right, can be challenging and tough but extremely rewarding. Down hill....wonder what that's like.

[@timlamarre8680]

Very impressed. You have gone from zero to knowing that engine well. I am thrilled for you that you found the issue. Great work! To have a pro do that trouble shooting could easily have cost you $500.

[@unclemuir]

Getting to be quite the mechanic Joel. A lot of people were scratching their heads on that problem, and a fairly simple fix.To prevent other problems in the future clean threads and put a dab of anti-seize on them. On electrical connections make sure there is no corrosion and prevent it by using silicon dielectric grease on connections. Those 2 steps can make life easier down the road. Good job Joel.

[@Bumsonaboat]

Uncle Muir a slow work in progress. Feels good to solve an issue. Thanks for the maintenance advice. We have both anti seize and dialectic goop on the boat. That's the next level..doing preventative maintenance instead of waiting on something to break.

[@justlooking2222]

It's always in the details, good for you on the engine fix. Let your friends know they need more slack on their topping lift once the main is hauled up, the weight of the boom needs to be fully on the mainsail. They will figure out to haul up on the topping lift before they drop the main, all on their own.

[@Bumsonaboat]

Thank you. Oh interesting. Wasn't aware that you didn't want any weight on the topping lift. I'll let them know and also make sure ours is good.

[@MrRourk]

I just went down to the engine room and hugged my Yanmar. Happy New Years!

[@cowboyroy1961]

So many times engine repairs and repairs in general, amount to the simplest things, when your mind has you thinking the worst. My father, Capt. Denn, always said check the plugs before you rebuild the whole engine! Look at the simple things first. Well done mate! Would love to cross paths some day. I'm in the mountains now but will be back SOON! Peace!

[@Bumsonaboat]

Definitely learning this is true through experience. What was hard to overcome was having the confidence to just jump in and go for it. Afraid to mess things up or make it even worse lol. We all learn differently but hands on is the most impactful way for me. Enjoy the mountains!!!ahh I'm so missing snowboarding. Hope to run across you too mate.

[@calvingarrett3245]

Hello guys been watching your video wish I was out there doing that one day I will that engine works sounded so complicated like a lot of work hopefully you got it working proper now bad to be stranded someplace in a car out here much less out in the ocean with no engine working right anyway I'll be taking care of God bless you I'll be waiting for your next video watching from Roseville California USA Ray Garrett

[@svvaliant2939]

Good ol BKH. We lived there about a year. Great people there. If you have any more engine troubles while you are there, just ask for Diesel Don. He helped me out so much with my boat. Another great video. Keep up the great work

[@Bumsonaboat]

SV Valiant This place is like no other place we have been. Such a strong community. Diesel Don is the man, heard nothing but great things. So many kept telling me to go to him but my stubborn self wanted to try everything possible first and if I had nothing else it was Diesel Don. Surprised you made it out of here after a year..many say you will get stuck here forever.

[@floydiod]

Always seems to be the simple things that mess up a good time! Glad to see your up and at it again. Great video.

[@Bumsonaboat]

Lol yup! Our signature is user error. Everything is fine except the Indian using the arrow.

[@gilunionhall]

hi guys - you may have solved a problem I had on Catalina 30, but we will never know - we owned it back in the late "80's. I think it was a Universal 3 cylinder diesel that would run fine up to the top of the rpm range and then It would start to overheat. we had the "experts" look at it and even re-prop'ed it and nothing worked -- wonder if your situation would have been what was wrong? enjoy your site - keep having fun !!

[@redbird1824]

Oops, cat overboard!Must jumped after a minnow!Marathon is a fun place .I lived there for two years at the blackfin resort marina.Lots of fun people.

[@davidcarper1271]

Way to go Joel! That was a good Volvo mystery solved.

[@Bumsonaboat]

David Carper Thanks we are happy!

[@jackpatteeuw9244]

I just rewatched this and want to add 2 comments. First those rubber elbows are critical to the operation of that cooling system. So critical, I would have one in my "spares" kit ! Obvious other spares includes replacement hoses for the cooling system. Second, any cast iron part that has raw salt water running through it is going to corrode. The raw water pump housing and cover and that exhaust riser you cleaned. You need to watch these carefully. If you have the money, you might want to have theses in your spares inventory. You should have 2 or 3 of each gasket for the entire cooling system !

[@parson4030]

Glad you got it all up and running!!

[@Bumsonaboat]

Garrett Parson as are we! It means the journey goes on baby:)

[@richardwestabrook9733]

Congratulations, good troubleshooting work!

[@Bumsonaboat]

Richard Westabrook thank you. The internet sure is a game changer. So many resources!

[@davidsmith4363]

You have to love the internet forums for trouble shooting problems. Its been a lifesaver for me more than a few times. Cleaning out the system wasn't a time. Right after the repair portion of the video I thought at first that you shaved your head and face. I was really taken back for a few seconds there.

[@Bumsonaboat]

David Smith oh they are such a huge resource! Plus the mechanical explosion charts and KZbin..your set. Hahaha that's great. Wild card

[@saylaveenadmearedead]

Congrats on finding the Volvo issues, saving hundreds of dollars on a mechanic!!!!

[@GarnettM]

In case your water jackets on the motor is clogged some , An old school trick is mix some Gilleys Lye half can to gallon of water let it circulate for 4 hrs drain the system it removes all the shale , It`s an old tip Used on the Dozer- Cats , Another thing to watch for if it keeps getting hot at high temp Is , The small gap between the Valves can crack it`ll not be noticed till it heats up thus making the overflow tank look like it`s boiling this is compression going into the cooling system or antifreeze into the oil pan only fix is a replaced head or headgasket .

[@Bumsonaboat]

Thanks you can never have enough old school tricks in the bag. We will keep an eye on that gap then..wouldn't want to have to replace that head gasket.

[@bigearedmouse17]

Finally caught up after Binge Watching for a few days solid, Outstanding uploads Thankyou and Hope you find what your searching for.

[@Bumsonaboat]

bigearedmouse17 wow that's impressive! Also humbling that you spent that much time. Thanks mate

[@tintdr]

Make sure you buy a bigger and heavier main grounding plate for your boat. Since your running a automotive inverter , be sure the inverter has a direct heavy negative cable going direct to the grounding plate. This will help drastically with electrolysis. Saving your engine, all metals on the boat etc.. and dont forget the engine aniods , extremely important

[@SoundzAlive1]

Thanks, I have the same engine with the same problem driving me crazy and everything checks out great but forces water out the overflow when reving high even when cold. That small detail of correct position of the heat exchanger tube sounds like the culprit. Persistence has its rewards so a reward will be coming to your PayPal account . Cheers from all sailors out there. André

[@Bumsonaboat]

Wow cheers Andre. So glad to be of help. Hope you are running nice and smooth. It is so great when the cooling system works properly! No more salt water baths for the engine:)

[@timerickson2141]

Hi FYI low temp is often because coolant is to low to reach the sending unit. Check for blown head gasket.

[@Bumsonaboat]

Tim Erickson okay thanks

[@johnking5691]

I worked for years on a lobster boat with a 63 series Volvo for power. I became a damn good Volvo mechanic. I hope to never see that green, rusty, hunk of metal again.

[@misterprofessor3511]

next time you're going to dump acid, add a couple boxes of baking soda, as that will neutralize the acid.

[@fatherthomas1575]

P.M. as we say in the Army, preventive maintenance. So basically you fixed future problems while fixing the existing one. Time and effort better spent at the docks.

[@BigTranquil]

Nice video dude! I've got a volvo md2010 with similar issues so was great watching what issues you had!

[@Bumsonaboat]

BigTranquil Thanks! So you have saltwater mixing? It would be awesome if another was able to resolve their issue through watching this vid.

[@marcderveeuw]

Did this guy just poor the acid in the open !!!!!!!!!!!

[@HiPpYBoAtErS]

Great video bum. Enjoyed everything. Keep up the good work matey

[@Bumsonaboat]

HiPpY BoAtErS Hey Spanks:) love to hear from y'all!

[@biker-dog-poppy]

least you know the cooling and exaust system are ready to roll!! ....nice fix geezer

[@Bumsonaboat]

john b yep at least there is that. Puts the mind at ease a little bit.

[@gilbertfurguson8438]

had a smudge pot with blocked exhaust horns (elbows) causing the engines to overheat soaked them out in vinegar and used a dull drill bit to grind them through blew rust through the exhaust for hours

[@gregstiles]

I think that type of acid is pronounced with 4 syllables -mur-ee-aa-tic! whoo, keep up the sweet vids

[@gorjusboating2390]

We've got a 35yr old Penta. Had cooling issues, but not as bad as your problem. Did a few things simultaneously, so not sure how effective this was or if it was just mental (a few people recommended this to us)... I bought 4L of Coca Cola (with phosphoric acid as key ingredient). Disconnected my salt water intake. Started her up, and on idle, poured cola into the inlet, making sure there was enough for her to guzzle. When 4L had been munched up, killed the engine. Then left it for 24 hours. (In retrospect shoulda done 48 hours as the acid is quite mild). Then reconnect and run on salt water as usual for a few mins. Appears to have perfectly cured our overheating issues. Now plan to do this twice per season, as part of the nurturing our floating baby demands :).

[@Bumsonaboat]

Gorjus Boating that's great info!!! Must get any gunk out of there and who knows what else. Thanks for sharing! Yet another tool in the Bums bag:)

[@crzy11000]

Use vingar it doesn't have the sugar in it which could gunk up your thermostat and is probably cheaper.

[@gorjusboating2390]

crzy11000 Nice to know... Is acetic acid just as good as phosphoric? Would it eat into the metal? Also, being stronger, should I limit to a 12 hour soak?

[@Bumsonaboat]

Gorjus Boating great question. I googled it but didn't come up with a direct answer. Many of our viewers seem far more experienced and knowledgeable. Hopefully one of them chimes in.

[@crzy11000]

I was taught in high school mechanics class this is how to flush your cooling system. You are also supposed to flush your instantaneous hot water heater with this method of vinegar. Many KZbin videos about this.

[@SailBeforeSunset]

Great explanation of the repairs.

[@Bumsonaboat]

Sail Before Sunset Nice to hear.

[@davidbradley3074]

You can protect your engine steel and aluminum parts with a sacrificial anode for cathode protection by using magnesium. This usually requires that the magnesium is in the water bath and connected directly to the components you are trying to protect. This is done because corrosion is an electrical process and when the corrosion cell is setup(rusting) the cell take the easiest electron to remove from the metals electrically connected and that is magnesium, for steel-magnesium or aluminum-magnesium connection. There is a trick too, you can use an electrical wire an attach the magnesium directly to your corroding component, cool a. Usually best if the magnesium is in water. so, if you have an extra tap some place on you engine block, pull the tap/plug SECURELY attach a magnesium plug and reinsert. Warning, check often because, remember it will be doing all of the rusting / corroding and can break into pieces.... you can us a backup wire screen as a capture mechanism just incase you forget to monitor well. IF you have more corrosion question or need a solution, just ask.

[@LycandersAim]

Episode was way too short! I like this channel because you show a bit of everything, not just the "fun" stuff. I think I've said it before but I love the technical parts of these videos as much as the sailing.

[@Bumsonaboat]

LycandersAim Okay thats good to hear. Always the main focus is to trim and cut to get these down to a reasonable time. Appreciate your positive feedback.

[@johntripp2028]

Great job on the exhaust.

[@Bumsonaboat]

Thank you. This fix didn't completely do the trick but after getting all of the bolts out of the manifold and soaking it again in Muriatic Acid, the cooling system has been great!

[@Sailboatstory]

From what I can tell, you're only 1 step away from becoming a full-fledged pirate. Gnarly Beard... Check. Flowing Hair in Braids... Check. Stylish Bandana... Check. Tiny, Super-Tight, Leave-Nothing-To-The-Imagination Sailing Shorts... Nope. ...but now you know where to get some. -B

[@tintdr]

Clean all the rust off the engine with a wire brush. Sand paper and get Volvo green paint and spray it. The zinc on your driveshaft can not have a spacer or hose inbeteeen it and the drive shaft, it will not work and defeats the purpose, the zinc needs to touch the drive shaft at all times. Because it's a dissimilar metal it will get eaten first. It needs to be changed allot since your always on the boat and using electronics. Also Google anodes , engine anodes , these are the same as the zinc for the driveshaft but in your engine and protects the engine from corrosion and rust etc. You need to change them every 3 services.

[@CheersWarren]

Wow! That was a tricky issue to track down. I don't like those marine engines that use cheap rubber boots to separate the fresh and salt water at the heat exchanger. Unfortunately Volvo and others do it quite a lot! You should make sure you have spares of of them on board. If installed too long they can tear and cause issues! The clogged exhaust usually happens because the engine is running too cold from Too much idling , static charging or a thermostat stick open or too cold. With My old marine diesel 'they' recommend running at full throttle for 15 minutes before shutting down to get everything nice and hot, hard to do.! But hard as it is to do diesels like to be run hard it's way better for them, better cylinder bores , exhausts etc. Good luck in your travels , cheers Warren

[@Bumsonaboat]

warp21drive Yes it certainly was. Okay thanks for the feedback. Yea extra boots sounds like a great idea. And since we got the boat we have been cautious to take it over 2000 when the manual says max is 3200-3400 rpms. It is sweet to see it run the way it's meant to.

[@roslynanderson2276]

Great episode buddy!

[@Bumsonaboat]

Roslyn Anderson Patty thanks friend!!! Miss you and Seany Pockets

[@patricklaine6958]

Nice trouble shooting video. The next time you suspect a clogged heat exchanger or exhaust elbow you might try Barnacle Buster without removing the hardware first. There are lots of videos on how this is done. (This would not have solved your collapsed elbow problem anyway --- just for info.) Fair winds for the future.

[@jackpatteeuw9244]

If you have to do the muriatic acid treatment again use 4 gallons of water to 1 gallon of acid and leave the part in for at least 4 hours. If there are still bubbles coming out, leave it in longer.

[@Bumsonaboat]

Well I actually repeated that process one more time so a total of 3 hours. I took my friend and experts advice to the t as far as ratio and time but it sounds like you have experience with this. Stan wasn't sure if soaking it to long might cause damage to the part.

[@jackpatteeuw9244]

Muratic acid has now affect on cast iron. You could leave it in there for a week, the worst that might happen is the paint would come off. Most important, I am glad to see that you have figured out the root cause of the salt and fresh water mixing ! I hope you rinsed out the the fresh water side by running it for a few hours with clean water and then dumping it before adding coolant. A cooling system cleaner like Prestone Radiator Flush + Cleaner (available at Walmart) would have bee good, but if you have coolant in it now it is not worth the cost of dumping it to do a flush.

[@Bumsonaboat]

I see. Good to know. Yes it is such a relief. Yea good idea on rinsing out the fresh water. The fluid was drained at least 5 times during this process lol.

[@tintdr]

And if you clean the elbow again with acid. After that use vinegar and baking soda in water this will clean it as well. And baking soda to kill the acid before you dump it

[@wardell7]

right on man!!! You are doing great!! Where are you now?

[@Bumsonaboat]

wardell Junius thank you! We plan to go from Marathon to Miami and then cross to Bimini from there.

[@Twistersfootball]

Do you have the book boat owners mechanical and electrical manual written by Nigel Calder, I believe he has three additions out they are dope as shit and can walk you through all types of headaches

[@Bumsonaboat]

We don't at the moment. We will be shopping for that. Thanks

[@kubuli100]

Nice troubleshooting

[@Bumsonaboat]

John Feemster Thanks

[@tintdr]

Elbows need to be replaced after you clean them twice. The inside of the elbow has a corroded protective coating in it. After a while. They need to be replaced. If you have it cleaned or clean it etc 2 times. You need to then replace them. Technically there not a serviceable part.

[@randygilmour]

Nice video, think about buying a penta service manual for that engine. It’ll make your maintenance life a little boring but what the hell. 😎

[@tintdr]

Also the acid you used to clean the elbow is horrible and will further promote decay, you gave the elbow a temporary fix. For a trip home. Now that you destroyed any remaining rust inhibitors that may have been left in the elbow. The elbow needs to be replaced. Your doing your best. But some things cant be patched. You will continue having an issue with the elbow. Also the fuel filter does not look good to an eye. It needs to be replaced the first fuel filter and second. Even if it looks good to your eye. Any service intervals need to be done. Where you thinking it should look gunked up? Because that's terrible. A fuel filter pics up microscopic particles and gets jammed and those particles you cant see. These basic maintenance parts need to be kept up. Fuel filters, zincs, engine anodes, belts, battery terminals cleaned every other month, grounding plates cleaned and terminals cleaned and protected, sea cocks inspected monthly and all sea cock hoses replaced and inspected with new hose clamps. Sea cocks should be opened and shut monthly so they dont get stuck open from corrosion, in the event of emergency, you may need to shut them and they will fail. Toilet and engine cocks

[@gregcripps7291]

I was thinking warped head but don't know much about marine engines. Trial and error but at least you know everything else is cleaned up.

[@Bumsonaboat]

Greg Cripps that was one of the things I thought it might be. From what I understand there should have been water mixing with the oil if that was the case. The oil should have been milky but it was good.

[@comanchedonbushcraft8932]

Not always, I have a truck right now that gets air from the cylinders in the radiator and blows the water out of the radiator but no water in the oil. It's rare but it happens. Glad that wasnt your problem though.

[@Bumsonaboat]

Okay recently we discovered that there was an add in. The previous captain had an extra hose that hooked to copper wiring around the alternator to keep it cool and joined with the salt water. This may have been causing the problem. We replaced the alternator and blocked the hoses that joined with the cooling system and it seems to be running better.

[@sailorjohn2224]

Last time I worked on a Volvo it was bending pushrods. mechanics couldn't fix it. We were drinking beer and discussing the problem with a south African friend, after a few beers we checked and found he was missing a thermostat causing the engine to run cool and carbonup the valves causing the pushrod s to bend and or bend the valves.

[@Bumsonaboat]

Wow fairly easy fix considering how serious the problem was. Always helps to step away and bounce your ideas off others.

[@MOTORVESSELFREEDOM]

Thanks for the vomit shot....lol.........Glad you worked everything out......You now know that engine pretty well now.....

[@Bumsonaboat]

John Ahern lol yea I'm sure that will gross out many. Night and day compared to the first time we took a peak at the engine. Still a rookie but willing to give it a go.

[@svargo1912]

Awsome just started binge watching. Great to see you guys sailing are you still in the keys. I'm near you guys in ft Myers beach

[@Bumsonaboat]

Oh yea!! Let's goooo. Yea still in Marathon but will be leaving any day.

[@ajax1137]

You ended up accidentally taking care of several other maintenance items while chasing this down, so that's a good thing. Be careful in your use of acid and lye on an old engine. Sea water exposed parts get thin after years of exposure and the acid can eat through the last bit of metal. Ask me how I know. ;)

[@Bumsonaboat]

Exactly! And always learn valuable information when trying to problem solve. Oh man, okay thanks for the heads up. Guessing that was not a fun discover to make.

[@lesliekirwan6583]

ajax1137 uy

[@changeurlife3471]

Nice job bro

[@Bumsonaboat]

Thanks

[@deanneufell3284]

It looks to me like there are 4 national pipe taper plugs to get to the corners?

[@manfredschmalbach9023]

Dude, You might consider a complete take-out-da-engine sort of total overhaul, including a rust- and corrosion removal and redo/rebuild of corroded parts/groups including a cleanout of the engine room to make future maintenance a less nasty ordeal whatsoever. It is still a great step towards a useful engine what You did in terms of reassembling properly at the end, but the overall deterioration a neglected engine suffers over time does not stop within confined elbows, I'm afraid. You'd be shocked to see what takes place inside an oil pan, inside a cylinderhead or inside an injection pump of an engine which deteriorated to the outer state of disrepair I see in Your video. Don't get me wrong, I love old engines, I actually prefer old engines versus new ones big time, but them engines do need some real TLC, not just a repair or two, when they come from half-hearted hands. Great vid's, keep 'em coming, thanks for sharing, happy new -week- year and stay afloat!

[@Bumsonaboat]

manfred schmalbach yes I'm definitely considering that. Although I'm ready to put it to the test here in the near future. Already ran it at much higher rpms and it runs great. Not a drop in the overflow tank. But yea for the long run I'll want to go through it more thoroughly. Happy New Years!

[@manfredschmalbach9023]

Nice to hear the position-thing of the heat exchange really did the trick for now. What I wanted to point towards: Don't risk an otherwise great engine due to an alleged non-maintenance-at-all-protocol some former owners might have been following whatsoever. As a boatbuilder I do know that some sailors tend to see the engine as a costly insurance vs beaching You buy at the beginning and don't even talk about it for the next decades because literally any remembrance You bear it will cost You more of those painful three to four digit sums ... until the engine quits and the numbers quickly rocket to five digits. I love elderly diesels, (did I mention that already 😬 ), use for myself a 22 y Merc 212 d and a 38 year old Merc 250 Td, both running absolutely fine in their 400 thousands (km) on road, and maintain quite some Mercedes engine now and then for longterm boat customers, some of said engines well over 50 years old with tens of thousands of hours, never opened, never rebuilt but all time properly used (never rev up a cold diesel ...) and maintained in terms of regular tuning and changes of fluids. I'm no great believer in more recent Volvo Penta marine engines, but I had some of the really old ones under my hands with next to tenthousand h, unopened (besides oilpan and valve cap of course), and running satisfyingly, as well. So, keep it handily loved, and it will love You back in exactly those situations You have to rely on it most. Acoustic aftermarket warning device for temperature and watermass flushed through might help monitoring, but You should develop an ear for Your castiron anyway and recognize by sound and vibes when she starts to become unhappy. Cheers M

[@Bumsonaboat]

manfred schmalbach this is reassuring to read! Thanks for the advice about the cold weather. It's cold now! We have extra gas and fuel filters. Just changed all fluids. Excited to see it run like it is meant to be. Nice to hear that you favor these types of inboards. I'm checking out your Merc engines.

[@BruceInFlorida]

You will soon know that boat, inside - out ! Awesome job getting to the bottom of that problem. Oh,,,, poor kitty was vomiting up a hairball.... ! Happy New Year 2018 !!

[@haywood12]

Bruce Malo that wasn't a hairball that was the daemon that lived inside that kitty

[@Bumsonaboat]

Bruce Malo Maybe not soon but at this rate it will happen at some point. Those to kitties went through an epic 5 day sail after that...and it got hairy. Happy New Years Bruce!!!

[@tintdr]

Always jump in the water and be sure your intake for your toilet and engine are free of barnicle and debris

[@RockyTop1911]

Good job and if you would have had someone else do it, your elbow may still be full of crud. :)

[@Bumsonaboat]

Thank you. That does happen sometimes.

[@svsolace8852]

Looks like you will be heading out soon now! Nice fix. BTW Stay out of the ICW Ive ran aground 3 times hahaha good thing it's mud! Why is the depth finder in the transom? hahaha

[@Bumsonaboat]

SV Solace oh great lol. We may be in the ICW for a bit. Transom must be the best place. Thanks for the heads up.

[@Proboiler714]

wow what interesting shorts man wow!!!

[@jaybaylb]

Great info, thanks

[@timerickson2141]

Look for air bubbles in coolant when motor is cool air bubbles are from combustion in the cylander

[@Bumsonaboat]

Tim Erickson okay looked and didn't see any.

[@rocketlife9549]

All that safety gear.... BUT...what happens when u spill or splash and it gets on ur bare feet ??!! Feet r kinda important, unless u don't plan on walking

[@Bumsonaboat]

Luckily dodged that bullet. Will remember that moving forward.

[@oceantraderco]

time to go back to your corp job to save-up for a new Yanmar. Invest in your boat Mate. A new engine will get you to il la Vache, or St. Barts!

[@Bumsonaboat]

O Trader oh I never had a corp job..''twas a humble golf pro. Believe in the Penta!!! Going to give her a chance to prove herself.

[@carolinabeacher1558]

i always heard never add muratic acid to water, add water to the acid, but its kinda hard to add my pool to a bucket of acid :)

[@Bumsonaboat]

LOL good point there.

[@raymondchan6550]

i'm a chemist and you have that backwards. When you mix acid with water, it's extremely important to add the acid to the water rather than the other way around. This is because acid and water react in a vigorous exothermic reaction, releasing heat, sometimes boiling the liquid.

[@californiakayaker]

My first reaction when I had heard the problem described, was a leak. All the other stuff was necessary and good to see. Like up to kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZu7f6alfq6dpZYm6s . my first guess was a leak from the cooling salt water side into the heat exchange (into the fresh water) , inside the exchanger salt water area. Now, watching past 5 mins. Added this to my "sailing technology" playlist. UPDATE Hey, the only thing you didn't talk about (unless I missed it) was which way goes to the back? The larger or the smaller part of the heat exchanger ? That exchanger sure looks different than others (viewed in my sailing technology playlist)

[@Bumsonaboat]

You are not alone in thinking that. Many have told me there must be a leak in the heat exchanger. This exchanger is the same size on both ends. It doesn't matter the orientation as long as the tiny pin hole is at the top and it protrudes evenly on the front and back.

[@californiakayaker]

Oh ok, I thought you had pointed out the size difference. I guess I need to check that.

[@californiakayaker]

My sailing technology playlist shows a lot of people dealing with marine cooling systems, but not this one engine, its a first. That's why I put it into the list. One point others have made and I agree with, its not a good place for a rubber boot. I don't' like the way they put that together. Imagine having to take it apart every time an impeller falls apart, looking for the little pieces ! . Would make a definite impeller change out schedule VERY important for that engine .

[@carolinabeacher1558]

with those shorts, good thing dud wasnt visiting a foreign country, he coulda got a charge for smugglin fruit :)

[@seanlathbury5410]

Great info to know. Thank you.

[@allied1394]

That exhaust hole on the bottom of the boat is not a good place what happens when your in following seas waters gonna come rushing in that hole

[@Bumsonaboat]

We have a gooseneck run well above the waterline which leads to a waterlock muffler to prevent that.

[@AnthonyPaun]

happy new year

[@Bumsonaboat]

Sailing Free At Last Happy New Year!

[@TheSoloAsylum]

boaters, sailors, rv'ers, have their own terms and language that people don't understand unless they are one of them.

[@jd9221]

Did you take the time to neutralize that acid before dumping it or was the environment not your concern?

[@Bumsonaboat]

The environment was and we checked with the Marina to see what the preferred since they didn’t have a disposal method for it.

[@tomharrell1954]

After you guys get caught up with BOAB WATCH THIS: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZm7dJ5jf6x3mac

[@ysnc8010]

The soil will be contaminated.

[@joesurfer9754]

Iv been a gear head for 50 years. Number one rule for working on an engine is "do not touch the engine without a manual". Also, a water pump is very cheap. Never put an old used water pump back on.

[@Bumsonaboat]

Okay that sounds like a good rule of thumb. Thanks you. It took me a while to realize those manuals are the only way to go.

[@R.E.HILL_]

Rust on engines gives me the creeps. Remove the rust and paint...

[@Mechone11]

it's not a Volvo it's a Perkins M30 perama parts are cheaper ,Perkins made 2010,2020,2030 and other engines for volvo' parts4engines .com

[@Bumsonaboat]

Wow okay we will look into this! The make clearly says Volvo md2030 but never knew perkins made engines for volvo.

[@davidtunnicliff5442]

@@Bumsonaboat i have a perkins m30 engine.....ordered end caps, but just found out the cooler is actually a polar engines cooler......need ot order different caps.

[@captlarry-3525]

so in other words, "When in doubt, read the manual ". !!! This is what happens when a whole chorus line of shade tree mechanics have at something, with out benefit of reading the service manual. Sailing is full of blow hards, and rugged individualists .. the sea going equivalent of six guys staring under the hood of a dead car.. " it's the transmission, or it's the radiator, no the radio is bad".. then the one guy who knows something, reaches in.. stick a wire back in the center of the ignition coil.. starts the engine and walks away without a word. Why Bother ?. So Fucking Classic.

[@bardarians]

Fkin No Man!! 3:49

[@joenugent1306]

Xspecily!!!!

[@MrHAPPYHAWAIIAN]

Take a big BONG HIT

[@jcregal3456]

The cat vomit video is over the top.

[@Bumsonaboat]

Jc Regal a gross reality of sailing with cats.

[@Boatyarddog]

Drunk sailing at nite? Hummmmmm! What part of the world you live in? I'll avoid that trip. SV Cloud Duster

[@Bumsonaboat]

lol yea that doesn't sound great.

[@Boatyarddog]

Bums on a Boat It's ok, just be sure you have someone watching the water while you sail.

[@Bumsonaboat]

So just don't try it alone eh?

[@Boatyarddog]

We've done it as I love nite sailing, inland waters, gotta watch. Off shore, still got to watch, but it's not as critical. Coast Guard will seize your boat, and there is flotsam to be sure. What waters are you mainly sailing in?

[@Bumsonaboat]

Sounds a bit risky. Don't like the idea of a seized boat. As of late we have been in the Florida Keys area.

[@melee401]

Oh geeeeeez, I can see you are going to need to some serious snipe tuterage here. Why all the big time between the issues arising and addressing them? You are FAR from the 1st one who has been taken by that exchanger core position issue.

[@richardmouton9883]

not a good place for cats

[@DD-lr6ne]

Reinforces my commitment to never buy a Volvo Penta engine.

[@Bumsonaboat]

I have recently discovered that the previous owner installed an extra salt water intake hose that led to copper tubing wrapped around the alternator to cool it. This salt water combined with the engine cooling system. It wasn't designed to flush that much out and since removing it the engine has run great!

[@michelebeck4311]

Volvo produce the BEST diesel engines in the world hands down! And have done so for over 50 years!

[@willrupley2253]

@@michelebeck4311 This one is made by Perkins and sold by Volvo .

[@michelebeck4311]

@@willrupley2253 nothing wrong with perkins either! Cheers from kiwi land

[@richardmouton9883]

stupid design .

[@MrRourk]

richard mouton welcome to Volvo Diesel.

[@Bumsonaboat]

richard mouton don't have any other inboard to compare it to.

[@Rooneycgs]

Loose the intro man

[@Bumsonaboat]

Rooney Elkish but...we are BOAB Baby