Some AC Units are Time Wasters - China Window Unit Fail

[@leokimvideo]

any video which has the words China and Fail in the title surely tells us this is worth watching

[@Aussie50]

good to hear this is not a isolated case!. evidently the starting electronics are stopping it from starting once the compressor goes downhill! I showed this to a couple of AC techies I know and they know not to waste time on them now

[@Aussie50]

yeh I grabbed a few hundred brass bridging tabs from the last load of Danfoss surplus to come into the junk yard. they bridge 3 pins across any small contactor for mega amp handling!, very handy things

[@Aussie50]

thank-you friend!

[@ChumpusRex]

Much as I dislike fully resin embedded circuits, this is a feature that I am pleased to see in an AC unit. This is the best way to ensure good resistance to moisture, corrosion, etc. So, they've done a better job than those old Fujitsu units that you've stripped down in other videos. Does make it a pain in the arse to fix though.

[@Aussie50]

I am a recycler, but sometimes I just don't have time to deal with them. this one I did recover and strip for coils/copper tubing. not worth the effort getting motor or PVC scrap out tho.

[@eggman9713]

Also, R-12 and R-22 have high ODP (Ozone Depletion Potential). R-134A, R-407C, R-410A still have quite a bit of GWP as I recall, but they don't harm the ozone layer.

[@andrewedis9907]

My first thought was the control system like thermometer relay and then capacitor. Then if it's got a full gas charge and still isn't working, unfortunately you're down to the compressor (is it down to earth etc) After watching the video all the way through it looks like cheap crappy Chinese compressor and as you know they're Hermetically sealed but it would've been interesting to cut the top of and see why it's "demanding all that power"

[@Aussie50]

I would recover it if it was not burnt, its the acids and shit that get in when the compressor burned that I am worried about.

[@Aussie50]

I do have it up for grabbs. its on the shelf in stock now

[@Aussie50]

yer, they are just phasing them out in favor of inverter based mini-splits. no more window units

[@Aussie50]

I have a few Carel digital control boxes, but if the units compressor itself it gone its not going to help :(

[@RODALCO2007]

Good video. On those Telemechanique relays you can parrallel contacts for greater current carrying capacity. The copper coils are worth 10 bucks by itself.

[@Aussie50]

yep, R12 is still better than R134a, they are replacing R134a soon too. so that means more equipment and system changes for anyone working in the field!

[@Aussie50]

Vegas would be fun to visit!, never been myself!. only got family in Florida which is still a great area! the relay coils are all 12V DC, so in theory you could make your own power supply and use it to replace the 240V transformer!. it has a full wave rectifier, all you need is a 10-11V transformer to feed it

[@NOLIMIT69NOLIMIT2000]

I used to work with R22 at the time they started getting rid of it and going to 134a. The 12 and 22 are destroying the ozone so the tree huggers are getting rid of it.

[@hydrolisk1792]

Me too, I moved from my house in Las Vegas and moved here with my Wife and her parents until we are done fixing up the houses than we start building ours, well the mom has 11 dogs, and it is great! I love dogs :) Is that just the input at the transformer of the control PCB? What is the voltage comming out of the secondary of the main transformer on the PCB? plus, what are the relays coil ratings?

[@Aussie50]

no, not at all. it runs at a much lower pressure and will not perform in R22 systems

[@averyalexander2303]

That's an interesting question, I actually I did that once. As an experiment I recharged an old R22 window AC with R134a after I fixed the leak. I don't think the performance of the unit was quite as good as it was with R22, but that unit ran perfectly fine on R134a for 2 years until I got bored and I replaced the R134a with refrigerant grade propane (R290), which seems to work a little better. I am still using that unit to cool my garage and it still runs fine, so I guess running R134a for 2 years didn't hurt it that much.

[@Aussie50]

you sure its not cycling normally?. the compressor should cycle on the thermostat

[@MrComaToes]

R134a works well enough in a system designed specifically for it, but it is not as efficient a refrigerant as R-12. Additionally, while R-134a can be used in an older a/c system in place of R-12, you need to evacuate to get ALL the refrigerant out and flush your system to get rid of the moisture and mineral oil and R-12 in the system it is incompatible with R-134 and the oils commonly used with R-134. Lastly you also have to replace the hoses because R-134a will permeate out of the R-12 hoses.

[@NOLIMIT69NOLIMIT2000]

I have no clue this is just what they shoved down our throats. I never said I was a manufacture of R22 I just said I used to work with it and that was what they told us. Also as a reference on where I came to this info, I worked for York International A Johnson Controls Division. This is just what we were told in the meetings as to why we were moving to 134a on top of it being cheaper. Sorry if I was wrong on this.

[@futurealarms121]

The compressor is cycling just fine but the compressor dosnent stay on long enough for refrigerant to cool the evaporator.

[@More350Power]

Looks like everything is made to be disposable anymore. :(

[@douro20]

R-410a is a good refrigerant...much better than R-134a which will react with any amount of moisture in the lineset...wish they would use it more often.

[@Zagroseckt]

Today you see 410a in most smaller system 1-5 ton ish. i've seen 405a&b as well but it's not quite as easy to service. you have to evacuate the system to recharge a 405 410a is so well blended it can be topped up most of the time.

[@Aussie50]

thanks for the sub!. I love dogs! the panel is all 240V 50Hz single phase. I don;t think it will work well in the US :(

[@bestage9429]

It's kinda strange to see cooling capacity kW higher than that of the heating capacity, usually the heating capacity kW is higher than the cooling.

[@HDXFH]

Vintage A/C's FTW!

[@HDXFH]

Electrosux POS, Kelvinator used to be made by EMAIL Ltd, til Electrolux Took over it's Whitegood/ Household Appliance Division!

[@MichaelFlatman]

oh Electrolux, my grandparent's house in Greece has an old split unit, still goes strong, I reckon its from mid 1980's (orange and black unit) and it runs good, absolutely massive indoor unit all black and a remote control soo simple, its just cool on/off heat on/off fan on/off and you hold down the buttons to change the temp (small lights on the indoor unit that light up next to a printed number). R22 refrigerant I think. Later on my grandparents installed a Fujitsu in the other bedroom, that is a good unit, has the potential to kick out some water from outside, I reckon its 1997-2004 or something as its a new style unit. Downstairs there is a haier unit, its so quiet but on full indoor unit fan it is a bit weak, its not an inverter, just a simple on/off unit but its not bad, has all the new electronic modes too, like sleep program and etc.

[@MichaelFlatman]

my bad, its an Electra A/C

[@MrComaToes]

What matters is this statement: "R-12 has been replaced with R-134a, which when charged correctly, works just as good.", is not only wrong, AND wrong in more ways than one, but might lead the uninformed to possibly ruin their a/c system. That's what matters. R-134a is the best they could come up with at the time... it works, but it ain't great. They'll use R-134a until they figure out something better.

[@hydrolisk1792]

Is the panel 220VAC, or 110? Can you make a vid of it as well? I'm a bit intersted in it. I may want it as well :) and thanks for the comment on my Doberman vid :)

[@coondogtheman]

Made in China = FAIL I have a Kenmore Window AC from the 80s, it's like 30 years old and it's still running strong. It has no electronic garbage on it just a Fan Low/High dial switch and a thermostat and a vent control. no LED display or other electronic garbage. Still works to this day. I'm not sure where it's made.

[@MrComaToes]

As I said, "R-134a works well enough in a system designed specifically for it" Manufacturers stopped using R-12 because of EPA laws, no other reason. Your F-150 and fridge were designed around the drawbacks of R-134a, namely higher head pressure causing larger amounts of waste heat and greater energy consumption (in comparison to R-12). In other words the very same system using R-12 instead of R-134a would work better last longer and use less energy to produce the same amount of cooling.

[@tomtom1541]

That's not entirely correct. If you look at these Ford's, when they changed to r134a they have a much bigger condenser coil and radiator fan to offset the higher head pressure compared to R12. If the system is properly designed for r134a it will be more efficient.

[@hydrolisk1792]

Do you still ahve the control unit and wireharness from this unit? Also, I wanted to know if you run acrossed any appliances with digital panels on them like this AC Unit? If so, let me know, and I'll set something up with you.

[@futurealarms121]

Can you help me with my frigidaire mini window a.c which the relay clicks then the compressor starts ok but approximately 5 to 10 minutes of activity the compressor shuts off with a loud thump. Please help

[@Aussie50]

the board would be parts scrap value ( $10 ) not sure on shipping tho

[@zx8401ztv]

what a shame :-( , well you win 9 times out of 10 Ed, so this must be the bad one. Ive had to learn when to give up and call it a day, some things just arnt worth the trouble.

[@Nman120]

whats the difference between all the different R refrigerants and the systems they go in?

[@speeddemon4484]

Quick computer question: The powerblock on my computer has a problem. Sometimes, when I turn on the switch on the back on the computer to give it power, the fans come on, and the LED lights on the tower flicker. If you cut the power, clean the powerblock, then turn it back on, nothing happens. press the power button and it works fine. It's not overheating because it's ice cold when it happens. It usually happens every 2 or 3 days. Any ideas?

[@techtron2376]

+Speeddemon448 Sounds like a capacitor problem possibly. Open it up, and look for capacitors inside that either have bulging tops, or open tops with dried electrolyte on top. Replace with the same rating (microfarads) and same, or slightly higher voltage rating.

[@DoomVideoVault]

Chinese made stuff usually is of medium to low quality anyways.

[@ccraig412]

You should record your background noises. It would make a hq sample.. :o and it's really clean.

[@gavincurtis]

On that relay. The pole piece had a copper shading ring, so it is a true AC coil relay. I don't know what the bridge rectifier is for; diode clamping? The blue device looks like a MOV. MOV is typically used for AC coil clamping vs diode for DC coils. It was cheap crap. Any one of those 2nd hand relays/contractors you had would exponentially outlasted that crap in the little black box. Too bad the compressor dumped itself. Cheap imported crap!

[@67tr876]

Its dumb they are baning R-22 but I do like R-410A just cuz it gets cold realy fast and it feels cold as well.

[@FrontSideBus]

Not worth getting the copper out of it anymore then?

[@hydrolisk1792]

Yeah, Vegas is cool, I was born and raised there :) Yes, that is cool, I figured that the PSU of it could just be replaced with some 110v transformer :) What would you want for something like this?

[@fixitdude74]

rip out the solid state controls and fit carel IR33, done a few old ones, works well

[@HDXFH]

I think they already have Phased it out, R-22 Is no longer Manufactured I do Know that!

[@Elmantukas]

hey thanx for uploading this video its really interesting

[@MrGab250]

Can you replace R22 gas with R134a?

[@myryonspoof]

r134a is used in car air conditioners isnt it?

[@shepd3]

Feh, not worth the effort recovering it if you're just using it for yourself. Just use propane (well, one of those propane based refrigerants with the anti-ignition stuff added).

[@arcticarrowhvacr]

Where can I get a window heatpump?!

[@More350Power]

I went to see how much a 1tb sata drive for my desktop would cost to replace..... I could buy a whole new computer almost...... everything is, eh junk I guess?

[@jasonmoore1900]

How many btus?

[@hydrolisk1792]

Cool, I'll get back to you on this item in the near future :) I do want it though. I'll stay tuned in and I subbed so I can see what kind of crazy cool stuff you're up to :)

[@polojize]

I have A case of R12 12oz cans

[@Zagroseckt]

i wana know where the leakige was :)

[@alex993cc1]

sad, maybe if the compressor was good you could have used one of my ir33's to run it :-)

[@carson01XJ]

What a piece of crap. I have a question: Is there an advantage to the condenser coil being rounded off on the left and right sides? I noticed that some window units have this.

[@bestage9429]

I think it allows the condenser coils to have extra surface area than what a one-sided coil without the rounded off sides would provide in its place.

[@RiderLiving]

"fairly new" and runs R22?! where in the world is that still legal? Only in china i assume

[@V8Jagnut]

Fucking new shit crap. what happened to a good old on off switch. lol. it broken now. :D

[@Zagroseckt]

POST MORTEM!!!!!

[@windoes98se]

how many BTUs?

[@twmax4137]

joe muncey i’d say at least 12,000

[@bestage9429]

The guy in the video said 5.8 kW cooling and 5.5 heating, so: 5.8 kW cooling = 19,790 BTUs 5.5 kW heating = 18,766 BTUs