Some Packages Came In!

[@srr9281]

Yes, would like the follow up video where you decode those missing numbers and watch you go through your technique. Anxiously waiting...

[@roysammons2445]

Nice bundle there and Jason's Paclock is a beautie. That was such a shame to have to cut the shackle on those Squires but I guess needs must. Pinning matt looks really nice, I would agree that possibly making some smaller ones first and seeing how they go would be a good idea. Looking forward to seeing all these gifts featured.

[@PocketWomen]

Very nice packages. J Gabriel is an awesome member of the locksport community. I think the colour may be Teal for that pinning mat. It is a very good looking mat. Thanks for this video

[@unspeakableoaf]

I want a mat like that for working with electronics and building stuff!

[@danareed1656]

oh wow great stuff!

[@daRock1212]

Hi question for you, since you now have at least two 90A-pros. Do you find the core a bit soft? I got one last week, took a few days to figure out the pick, and then put it in my daily practice rotation. Yesterday and today I really can't TOK tension (my preferred for this lock). A 40 thousandths was perfect to start but now rotates around so I can't apply tension. I don't think I forced anything, and it's my only lock in the daily lineup experiencing this. Keep up the great vids!

[@LockNoob]

I’ve picked a few 90A pros, and while they certainly are waaaay better than most LOTO locks, I’d rather a 7pin American Lock with a good bitting, the PacLocks, while great, just are a bit mushy feeling in comparison

[@daRock1212]

@LockNoob that's why it was good for the practice rotation. It feels like picking sand! But I should track down a 7 pin American. Thanks for the great work, it for me back into picking

[@forteandblues]

Yay it’s like Christmas!

[@Paul-Howell-M3EYG]

Colour (or color) of the mat looks Jade to me..?

[@noakeswalker]

Unless there is a manufacturing fault, it's hard to see how these CP50s can change codes by accident, unless maybe if the screw on top is a bit too loose, that allows the central shaft on the button to move up too far, which disconnects the inner and outer wheels, so then the code could change when the lock is being opened...?? (I took a CP40 apart to see how they worked - the inner and outer wheels are locked together by a brass pin, unless the button/shaft is moved up further, which then allows this pin to flop inwards into a divot in the shaft, which disconnects inner and outer wheels) Having tried out the Squire CPxx 'bouncy wheel' technique on a few of them of different ages now, I am coming to the conclusion that it's not very reliable ! I own a CP40 which has random bounce in several numbers on every wheel, and I have tried out 4 or 5 CP50 locks (with permission) where some work and others don't, and with those that don't, I found the 'slack wheel' technique works instead. My CP40 (bought new Oct 2024) does not respond to either technique :o( I dismantled this lock completely, and I think the locks which have bouncy wheels must be in a large batch with out of spec inner wheel shapes, or something... The old 'slack wheel' technique is easier to understand. My method for decoding my new CP40:- If you hold the button in, and you poke a shim tool of about 0.2 or 0.3mm thickness in above each wheel, and rotate the wheel, the shim will move easily inwards by about 2 or 3mm further at the correct number - this is because the inner wheel can move out of the way and allow the shim to slide in further - at wrong numbers, the inner wheel does not move and prevents the shim from going in fully. This is the only way I have so far found of decoding my CP40 ! Cheers, Dave

[@dan.gmoller729]

Make a link please for your second channel Please so i can subscribe to you i can't founded