Some thoughts about components tester GM328A

Some thoughts about components testers GM328A
Quelques réflexions sur les testeurs de composants.
I tell some huge bullshit between 17:40 and 17:55: we must understand in fact that the flow of passage in the blocked sense is 8 nano amps, it has nothing to do with henrys.
It's tired thanks for your understanding.
Je raconte quelques énormes conneries entre 17:40 et 17:55 : il faut comprendre en fait que le courant de passage dans le sens bloqué est de 8 nano ampères, ça n'a rien a voir avec les henrys.
C'est la fatigue merci de votre compréhension.

[@q12x]

Very good comparison and analyzing. It really give me a comprehensive idea about the versions that are there. I am going to purchase the black pcb tester GM328A, but i also like the yellow one for its -speed-. I am very pleased that you helped me with this tester to find the better version of it. You have my 'like'. :)

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

The most easy way to find this one is to purchage it from Aliexpress. It's not avalaible on other site, like ebay or Banggood. The thing to know about all those component tester is than they are very fragile. If you try to measure a capacitor without discharging it, your device will be instanteniously destroyed. Not worth to look for the absolute new version, because this kind of devices take a very long time to be enhanced. However, this black pcb version is very resulted, and it's do the job very nicely. Thanks for your interrest.

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

I tell some huge bullshit between 17:40 and 17:55: we must understand in fact that the flow of passage in the blocked sense is 8 nano amps, it has nothing to do with henrys or capacitance. It's tired thanks for your understanding. Je raconte quelques énormes conneries entre 17:40 et 17:55 : il faut comprendre en fait que le courant de passage dans le sens bloqué est de 8 nano ampères, ça n'a rien a voir avec les henrys ou des capacités. C'est la fatigue merci de votre compréhension.

[@CrossedCoder]

Is there any difference in terms of features between the red and black PCB GM328(a) testers? I don't know which one to buy

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

the red pcb is a less effecient device. Better is the black pcb version. Sorry for the late, YT never noticed me about.

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

the black pcb version is really better than the red. Thanks for your comment.

[@CrossedCoder]

@@AIexanderHartdegen thanks for your advice, I went and ahead and just purchased the black pcb one 👍

[@KrotowX]

These testers are things not always needed, however they become extremely useful when one goes through recycled component pile or must know values of components placed in shelf and forgotten. Thanks about very thorough demonstration. GM328A definitely seems most advanced tester from all I seen here. Built-in PWM generator may become useful too. In fact I already know where to use it. Landed in my cart.

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

glad you like it.

[@meretrix]

Very informative video, thank you so much!

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

glad you like it.

[@Futschikatores]

Thanks for the videos. When my checker is in the ESR mode, I do not have to press the button again to refresh the display, it automatically detects when a new capacitor is inserted. I saw you pressing the button after the display had already updated itself, thats why I am mentioning it :)

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

On the main unit (gm328a) you can choose a '' on the row mode'' which permits to you to not press the button between many measurements. Thanks for your comment

[@powerbatterychannel4315]

Thanks a lot! Very useful!!!

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

glad you like it.

[@billkabb]

hi my friend this is a great review ... im very new to electronics and i found this video sooo useful and saving me from spending a lot of money on expensive equipment . well i have a question maybe stupid but as i told you im very inexperienced . using a pair of probes connected to those boards can i measure capacitors esr without to have to desolder them from pcb ?

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

@Bill Kabb yes and no. You can measure only ESR on pcb board without desoldering one leg of the capacitor. You can also measure capacitance but it can give you a (very) wrong value. Thanks for yout comment, your question is not stupid. Glad you like the video.

[@billkabb]

@@AIexanderHartdegen that's great ... thanks ....

[@uncontrollabledogs3791]

This is a pretty good video. A bit hard to understand you, please take no offense. I like that you have many different testers, very helpful to compare differences. Please carry on. Subscribed now

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

Glad if you like it. English here is not prepared and after a long day of working it's a little bit hard. My english vary according my degree fatigue. Anyway, glad if you like it, my channel treats about general electronic. Thanks for your comment.

[@Unnaymed]

Salut, merci :) Il y a sur le marché des TCR-T7 TC-T7-H et des LCR-TC1 et ESR02pro. Ils intègrent une batterie rechargeable, et mesurent des igbt des zenner de 20v. C'est pas mieux de les acheter? J'ai encore du mal à trouver des comparatifs pour savoir ce qui est plus judicieux à prendre. Qu'est-ce t'en penses?

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

c'est un très bon petit appareil. Un collègue en avait acheté un, aux alentours d'une quinzaine d'euros. De façon étonnante il était capable de mesurer de diodes zéner de tension assez élevée, ce qui peut être utile. J'avais la version noire décrite dans la vidéo, qui n'avait pas cette fonction. En revanche mon collègue avait refourgué son LCR-TC1 à un autre collègue pour acheter exactement le même que celui dans la vidéo (le noir) je sais pas pourquoi. Je pense que lors d'une utilisation intensive de ce petit genre de "gadget" (qui n'en est pas un, je suis devenu incapable de m'en passer) il vaut mieux en avoir plusieurs, au cas où un appareil présenterait un résultat exotique. Le ESRO2 pro ne me plait pas trop, je ne l'ai jamais eu en main, il devrait y avoir une vidéo quelque part qui en parle. Il faudra que je m'achète un LCR-TC1 également. Ces appareils sont de petits bijoux. Le meilleur appareil reste le model au pcb noir, ensuite le LCR-TC1 me paraît complètement judicieux à utiliser au cas ou l'un présenterait des résultats "bizarres" pour confirmation.

[@mrbaiser4133]

What is the polarity of the DC jack? Center positive or center negative?

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

The center is positive. But the sourrounding I don't remember. lol.

[@IgorArt1363]

Could you tell me what is the difference between the GM328 and GM328A versions?

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

there's not. A is an opition to describe the module, and some sellers didn't tak the pain to tag it.

[@rithikadithi1592]

Sir i buy gm328a black ,by your recommendation from aliexprss,sir i have a dought can i measure frequency by connecting ac 12 or dc 12 volt power supply to connect directly to it?

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

@Rithika Dithi yes you can. If you want to do it with more secure, you can add a resistor in serial with your dc or ac power when measuring. Making a resistor doesn't change sensibility or value. More you use a high voltage, more your resistor will be high. For this you need to connect the entry connector on the top of your device. If you hesitate, just use a resistor to protect your device, with 1, 4,7 or 10 kilohms. I don't know howmuch high voltage it can resist, I think it's 48V, but not sure. The best protection is to use two resistors for entry, one in the negative and one on the positive. If you measure DC voltage, you will read a dc offset, if this one is not rectified by filtering. If this one is rectified, you can detect a frequency ripple (same than the frequency of the main) on your read, and if filtering is nice, you will read 0 hertz. If you measure AC, you will read a normal frequency. Thanks for your thrust and you comment.

[@rithikadithi1592]

@@AIexanderHartdegen thanku soo much 😘 for reply and advice it's very much valuable information for me sir 🤗

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

@ Rithika Dithi glad you like it, thanks for your trust.

[@uK8cvPAq]

I've got one of those blue cased ones, best $25 I ever spent!

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

nice, thanks

[@carlnikolov]

Can you use external test leads with the GM328A? I tried inserting test leads into the rightmost port but it does not work

[@OndrejPopp]

Hello Alexander, when you blow the GM328 up, all you need to do is to replace the microcontroller. More information about this tester can be found here, including documents about how it works and links to github software repositories : www.instructables.com/id/AVR-Transistor-Tester/ How to program the atMega328 can be found here, kzbin.info/www/bejne/iajaYqCboJqlfrc

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

Thanks

[@headphonesaudiophile7989]

Blue version GM328 is without changing font color, contrast, and background color in menu. So if you buy that tester, your eyes must be very young - you can not change color on nice green and background on black. Now - you have only blue fonts on blue background. Another problem is a strange font in that device - some characters are big, another are small, very, very nasty font, made of one Russian font ;-). I have another version of this tester when I can change all colors of display, font is normal and you are not learning to read this strange text. My old green GM328A with normal font is more accurate - chinese blue version is sometimes more then 10% unreliable - in your test, 10 ohm resistor was 9.4 ohm, another tester was with 9.6 ohm - it was not a good value. If you have transistor and this tester - the same transistor is with beta 398, but should be 366. So, if you buy cheapest blue version from China - it's may 20% tolerance in measuring, without font color changing, with nasty strange font to display. Better idea is to find another one, made with bettter 1% components. PS. You should calibrate that tester - use tester calibration procedure with 150nf and 22nf capacitors. Testing on not calibrated tester it's not a good idea. ;-)

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

thanks for your feedback.

[@sp.shoyon]

Which one is the best??

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

the black one maybe.

[@Tsukuykamy]

@@AIexanderHartdegen Why is the black the best, when compared to the newest 3.7 V version (this one: aliexpress.com/item/1005001619382846.html ) ? Thanks for the video, btw!

[@AIexanderHartdegen]

@@Tsukuykamy just story of taste. The black is the better for the price. All my friends sold other model for to keep the black.

[@Tsukuykamy]

@@AIexanderHartdegenBut is it because it has more functionalities, or because it has more/better components? I was thinking of getting the 3.7V version because I can probably use a smartphone charger via micro USB. The black one would require some kind of laptop charger (or a 9V battery), correct?