6:59 When connecting to an aftermarket battery terminal such as shown, it's best to first put the bare wire into a wire ferrule and then clamp it down inside the terminal block with the Allen set screw. This keeps the individual wire filaments from fraying and makes a better overall connection.
@knifeknerdreviews4609 Жыл бұрын
Yeah I became a believer in wire ferrules after the first use... To think how many stereo systems I installed without those things back in 90s and 2000s...lol..
@bostonseifrit3684 Жыл бұрын
@@knifeknerdreviews4609same here😂
@tissuepaper9962 Жыл бұрын
if you don't want to buy the crimping tool you can also just use solder to hold the ends together. The solder also gives the set screw something nice and soft to bite into for a great connection.
@blabla9036 ай бұрын
☝🤓
@brendenperry3770Ай бұрын
@@knifeknerdreviews4609In my opinion, not that impressed so far. The 1/0 ones I bought for my power wire wouldn’t fit into my 1/0 EFX distribution block. My 8 gauge ferrules don’t fit into any terminal on my older Rockford Fosgate 4 channel, or 2 channel even. Also on the 1/0 the ferrule was too small for my sky high 1/0 wire. I order all of the ferrules from Crutchfield. The 14 gauge ones worked ok but didn’t really clamp to the wire like I would’ve liked
@gtstanton9785 Жыл бұрын
I gotta say heaven, in car audio for 20 for almost 25 years and I have to say your guy’s video at SONIC Electronics is the best on KZbin!
@taichijohn60714 жыл бұрын
This is the best Big 3 Upgrade videos that I've seen. The camera work is stable. You can see almost everything mentioned. The presentation is organized and features graphics. The presenter is knowledgeable, smooth, and easy to understand. The presenter is wearing a lav mic so the viewer can hear him clearly. The video presents more than one vehicle to illustrate differences in vehicle designs and challenges they may present. I give a big thumbs up on this very informative video!
@jayisfedup68964 жыл бұрын
I understand they did a good job on explaining. But you seem to not know sh$t! If you need a here is the battery an this is an engine block break down. You do not need to touch anything. You need to hire some1. You need basic skills an common knowledge before most if not all you tube DIY videos.
@4.5yearsclean4 жыл бұрын
@@jayisfedup6896 Get off your high horse
@adisadis63133 жыл бұрын
And we are swimming into your saliva....
@jacobsellars79103 жыл бұрын
@@jayisfedup6896 sounds like hes fed up...
@ahmedmansoor67113 жыл бұрын
you sound like a school teacher marking a presentation
@blownaway43715 жыл бұрын
And additional 'tip' is before you crimp the terminal end, is to dip the freshly stripped wire into some light oil (PB blaster, WD-40 etc) because the wound wire will 'wick' the oil back up under the rest of the wire insulation to help prevent corrosion seeping up into wire after time. And then if you decide to use heat shrinking sleeves, it will protect just that much better. (ESPECIALLY for the Northern states that use salt etc on the roadways)
@mickdeegan46512 жыл бұрын
Exllent tip my goo frend dielectric grease doe's not sipe l like pblast
@TedTedness-wu4vb Жыл бұрын
Fluid Film and a quick hit with heat gun will wick the Fluid Film up into the cable too.
@garonjohnson5922 Жыл бұрын
@mickdeegan4651 Did you mean *wick? Or sipe?
@sidgar1 Жыл бұрын
You can also solder it in, which will create a metal to metal bond which will leave no room between the wire and the connector and prevent oxidation between them
@deankay44342 жыл бұрын
Always disconnect the battery negative before starting any electrical service. It is safety & protects electronics! Best practices are good. Purchase a digital multi meter (DMM) to have the ability to do “Voltage Drop” test and (OCV) open circuit voltage at the battery. There are good videos on both. The battery stored energy to start the car, un-lock, lock and power lights plus many other duties like certain memory functions & clock. Yours will vary. The alternator uses diodes to direct energy to negative (Back Case of Alternator) and the B+. Negative to the battery completes a DC circuit and most cars don’t have a “Full” dedicated frame. Negative wire to the battery (As his Example) have a “Tee” inline, that bolts to chassis but to the engine. Rebuilding or modifying can be fun but a good cable for negative should attach from the back of the alternator and continue on to the battery. You need grounds everywhere to chassis, engine, battery, frame (If applicable) but the littles ones found on intakes, cylinder head or rocker arm cover to the firewall (Bulkhead) are required but the battery to the block is the big one. After all, you want it to crank to start. A good battery tested at 100% state of health and (OCV) at 12.6-12.8 Vdc is correct. The alternator will charge a good battery at less than 1/2 an amp while driving. OEM alternators sense B+ but also temperature. Cold batteries take as much as 14.2 volts as hot batteries take 13.2. The Marine industry + some auto’s with the battery under the rear seat has temp sensors to adjust the rate of charge. Use wire that is quality with “Star Washers” inside or out that dig into both metals, the connector & car. Yes, remove paint to a minimum but protect your connections with a $6 tube of dielectric grease. Adding amps, DSP, and other aftermarket components need a single large fuse that totals the added load. Placed next to the battery as close as one can. Route using existing rubber grommet and avoid all pinch points to avoid fire. Amp clamps w / direct readout are reasonably priced and with the loads on, measure each. Write this down and purchase a distribution fuse center. Sizing wire for unknown amps is guessing and boxes lye about amperage requirements. You can never use “OutPut” for calculation of picking the correct fuse. Start with only the size indicated by the component then the system on at full, the amp clamp will show the correct fuse by 28.6 amps, get a 30 amp fuse, not a 50 amp. The fuse protects the wire and not the component. Voltage drop is measuring the loss of voltage across point “A” to point “B” while on at maximum. The higher the circuit amps, the higher the voltage drop, so a 120 amp circuit voltage drop is 0.500 Vdc. 1/2 of a volt is lost! Normal. 16 amp circuit will show 0.050 Vdc loss. Like headlights or blower fan. These are series circuits, therefore the component uses all the voltage in the circuit. A new switch, wires, connectors, fuse and ground will add up losses when on and new. Measure with DMM on volts, turn on circuit and measure B+ side, ground side both to battery, the component gets the rest. Anything kissing high volts is resistance due the ground, connector, switch, wire or even a fuse. Follow these suggestions and you will have no problems and it works well in diagnosing. Amps to a fuel pump are about 7.0 - 8.5 Amps. Higher than this, plugged filter, pinched line, etc. Lower means the pump is worn and will fail. A simple fuse jumper wire plugged in at the fuel pump fuse w / Amp clamp will show. Voltage drop? If the black or red meter leads are backward, the reading is the same only with a (-) sign in front of it.
@freeyourmind88498 жыл бұрын
I have done this upgrade to a dozen different cars. but why? you will not gain any horsepower. but your car will start faster, your battery will last a little longer, reduce chances of shorts and check engine lights, and your interior lights and gouge will be slightly brighter. to the engineers that say don't do it. the car manufactures especially imports use the bare minimum metal and materials to get by to maximize profit on quantity of cars sold. we live in a world where quality is rare and quantity dominates. just look at the food Mcdonald's sells.
@chrisgray87417 жыл бұрын
freeyourmind88 I
@joshwolden29297 жыл бұрын
Well said.
@ezeykod44387 жыл бұрын
freeyourmind88 you just explained why
@danielfierro36717 жыл бұрын
Agree!
@emotionalintelligence7767 жыл бұрын
Apparently, you missed the entire statement by Freeyourmind88 of why, surprisingly for people who do more than just let their cars drive them, we knew it had nothing to do with stereo installs although it could be applicable at a later point. VW's before 2010 should've automatically came with an upgrade kit as those cars were the poster child of bare minimum wiring.
@olechuga27 жыл бұрын
Sir, you are the very first (v1st) vehicle mechanic that I see working under the hood seating down. Excellent ... absolutely nothing wrong in working in a "comfy" style! Sir, thank you for your great video on "The big three (3).
@tonistarks28743 жыл бұрын
😁I just noticed
@joshtaylor42498 жыл бұрын
I've done all of these things..It works.. Excellent tutorial for those un savvy in automotive electrical.
@Straight_White_Fatherly_Figure Жыл бұрын
Definitely the best and clearest explanation that i could find, thank you very much, even 7 years later 👍🏻
@averyalexander23035 жыл бұрын
Quick tips- The nuts/bolts on the strut towers which hold the strut mount to the chassis work extremely well as ground points because they are nice and large, the metal on the strut towers is thick, and you can tighten them down tight without stripping it or causing damage because they are large and sturdy. Just don't ground to the strut/mount itself since it's usually isolated by rubber bushings. I would also suggest finding a large bolt on a sturdy part of the engine block or head to connect the ground to instead of connecting it to a small bolt on a valve cover, bracket, or something similar. That way the cable is connected to a thick piece of metal that can handle current well, and you can tighten the bolt down nice and tight for a solid connection. Also, as he said, make absolutely sure to sand/wire brush all connections to clean, shiny metal since paint and oxidized metal are very poor conductors. I hope that this information helps someone
@micheledianemiller45892 жыл бұрын
have to watch doing this ,,,, some vehicles have rubber mounts for struts
@averyalexander23032 жыл бұрын
@@micheledianemiller4589 Great point, thanks for mentioning that! I was referring to the nuts that hold the strut mount to the strut tower rather than the nut that holds the strut to the mount, but after rereading my comment I realize that what I wasn't totally clear, so I edited it for clarity so I don't confuse anyone.
@TruthSeekerAll2 жыл бұрын
When you remove the nut that holds the struts, does it loosen the struts and does it need to be aligned back or something? Can we just loosen one of the nuts, put the wires there and just tighten the nut just like that and all will be fine? Its the first time I’m gonna do the big 3 so I’m quite nervous. Appreciate your inputs. Thanks a lot.
@averyalexander23032 жыл бұрын
@@TruthSeekerAll It won't loosen anything or affect the alignment. Just remove one of the nuts/bolts holding the mount to the chassis (not the one in the center holding the strut to its mount), sand or grind the surface under the head to clean, shiny metal, install the terminal, and reinstall the nut/bolt. If you are nervous about using a strut mount nut/bolt, there are a bunch of other things you can use too. I just found that the strut mount bolts work well almost universally since they are large and the strut towers are thick. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask
@TruthSeekerAll2 жыл бұрын
@@averyalexander2303 Thanks so much. Have a great day. 👍
@thomass90994 жыл бұрын
I did the big 3 today and it made a big improvement!!
@mrolskul8 жыл бұрын
I actually upgraded, and added a few more grounding points to my 1985 Corolla GT-S, along with the battery ground, over a decade ago. I thought of the alternator charging wire to the battery but wasn't sure how to do it. I will be definitely be upgrading the charging wire today which will compliment my upgraded alternator (OEM was a mere 60 amperes) with a 100 amperes unit for a 1993 MR2 (w-p/s), which happens to be Plug & Play. Thanks a lot for this informative video, very helpful!
@chrisgraham29043 жыл бұрын
The Big Three Upgrade is a great insurance for a trouble free starting system for the life of the vehicle. If you don't have a wiring kit, any welding shop can provide very high quality DC cables, sold by the foot and a variety of quality connectors. Total upgrade cost is about $50 and a little driveway labor.
@chrisgraham29043 жыл бұрын
If the upgrade prevents even one tow during the life of the vehicle, it's paid for. Without the upgrade, failure of any of these wires can cause expensive damage to the battery, the alternator, starter and other charging components.
@stephenkeebler7325 жыл бұрын
My brother had a '69 Camaro, California car with very little rust. Constant electrical problems, too many to list. Ended up running heavy gage wire replacing factory positive and negative battery cables. Helped! Added heavy ground wires to several spots of front body panels. Helped more! Ran ground terminals with connections to each other. Much better! Then, ran heavy Ground to engine block, both cylinder heads, and front frame. It made a world of difference. Was amazed how much resistance there was between metal on car...
@KOIFLA7 жыл бұрын
All done on the Saab 900. Put 4ga from the alternator to the battery and went from 12 volts to 13.1 no load and much more stable when adding load. Thanks Sonic
@CarshowRellStudios2 жыл бұрын
Gonna probably do this for my 900 also
@mpccenturion8 жыл бұрын
This is a great idea for preventing the dreaded - rusty and falling off wires that are burnt and rubbed through and sparking when it rains and there is road salt. Up my way - this kind of stuff is for diesels, like the old or new TDI or old Mech pumps. Winter requires a 1000 COLD CRANK AMPS. And then you have to get all that power to the starter and not melt off the connections, so dont forget to keep going with the upgrades. Best regards - you did a great job explaining and including solder use. Cheers!
@nelagordon248 жыл бұрын
For the charging wire any additional wire you add smaller or larger than the original wire size you'll see an improvement.
@MrYessireebob8 жыл бұрын
I'd be more worried about those fogged headlights than the big 3
@ChrisSmith-gl2yb6 жыл бұрын
Tony 109 haha
@DefWun5 жыл бұрын
Legend says that to this day,those lights are the same color as a school bus.
@JenGM245 жыл бұрын
Brush.
@ekofreezy34324 жыл бұрын
😂👍
@DIYeverything5134 жыл бұрын
LOL
@ericthegeneric16119 ай бұрын
I wasnt going to comment but man i respect that he gave different examples for different vehicles at the end. Very nice.
@DevilDog586Ай бұрын
As a certified automotive technician of way too many years, and an avid car audio lover since before i could legally drive - please, when you put your wires into your eyelets or other terminal connectors - solder the wire into the connector. If you're not comfortable torching 0 gauge into a eyelet at least use heat shrink instead of the rubber sleeves over the connections to prevent oxidation and corrosion. Your vehicles electrical system will thank you and it's much safer.
@wilborth5th6 жыл бұрын
BEST VIDEOS YOU CAN FIND TO IMPROVE THE “HEALTH” OF YOUR CAR, BETTER ELECTRICITY CURRENT DEFINITELY WILL MAKE YOUR CARS PERFORMANCE WAY BETTER, THANKS
@eknaap88004 жыл бұрын
Why are you YELLING?
@oswaldjh6 жыл бұрын
The secondary ground that you see on the other vehicles shown are for the cylinder head which might be isolated from the block ground by the head gasket. The studs holding the head on might be covered in locktite and thus the need for that ground as a precaution. It might have been wise to find the block ground instead as this is the one the alternator is attached to.
@timschutte83105 жыл бұрын
, Another Tip............ if you cannot find or get to the original engine block ground, don't worry about it. Just run an entirely NEW GROUND and leave the factory ground. Nothing wrong with doing that. After all, it's a factory ground anyways. so leave it for you do it yourself kind of people.
@mallorycainjr.19215 жыл бұрын
I needed this statement thanks you and also would a strut tower be a good ground for chassis to engine block? I have a 2002 chevy impala
@RufusBuck55 жыл бұрын
@@mallorycainjr.1921 yup.. I got a 2013 and I put it to the strut bolt..
@semajkeaton3314 жыл бұрын
Run a new ground from the engine block to the battery?
@slow_rednline48744 жыл бұрын
@@semajkeaton331 yes I don't even use my OEM ground..I relocated my battery to the back and deleted my front battery ..it's grounded with double 4/0 cables
@dazaspcАй бұрын
All great improvements to stabilise an electrical system. However there are a few issues you didnt mention. First is the cable you have used. In cars Main power wires should be solid copper flex strand and not plated or aluminum. The aluminum cables work harden and break with the vibration. They corrode internally causing problems electrolysis wise. They should be about %30 bigger than copper to achieve the same duty cycle. The insulation is rarely rated for under bonnet use, be it heat, chemical or even abrasion. There is a very good reason why cars are wired in copper and not aluminum considering if aluminum was used they would be lighter and cheaper. My usual pick for these types of cables is Welding Flex. Double Insulated, Very Flexible and able to handle high temps without issue. The connectors used also play a huge part. Never solider them on the big wires as it changes the heat treatment of the wire causing them to become hard and brittle at the joint. Bolt on connectors to high loads need a robust solid face to attach to. Anything beyond 50 amps should be to thick to bend even with a pair of pliers. WHY? Resistance to vibration, No additional electrical resistance at high current loads. They wont overheat at high current loads causing the fastener to come loose. For a 200 amp load 4mm thick minimum.
@OKBAOK2 жыл бұрын
One major reason why you do this is, the ground to chassis. Negative battery to chassis it will make stronger tight ground connection. When vehicle shakes and corrosion if only one ground cable the original one it will loose contact to the chassis. One reason why your dashboard lights flicker and gauges going nuts. Check engine light will come on code says low voltage in Ecm, PCM modules. Abs lights, battery icon etc will show up in the dashboard. So it’s a must to do this upgrades.
@johndoe-wh6td6 жыл бұрын
Huh, never knew you can upgrade that part
@LA_Commander3 жыл бұрын
That small wire you made fun of that you thought was the engine ground, wasn't the engine ground. That is a small ground wire made for the spark plugs in the head and the ignition system. Replacing that wire did nothing. You failed to identify the engine ground wire, which is most likely behind and back of the motor. So your customer only got a "big 2 upgrade" but he paid for a "big 3 upgrade". This happens a lot on Hondas, too.
@whydontyouaskme2 ай бұрын
I could imagine it’s not ideal, but since the whole motor is metal I could assume it will do well if your counting on better voltage stability
@whydontyouaskmeАй бұрын
It will work for the meantime but after about a year I would definitely check the wire for the small possibility of overheating wire. Though it tends to to happen more times than not on the positive side of the polarity.
@NordicDan4 жыл бұрын
I'm a big fan of a crimp for the mechanical connection, and soldering to make a more solid, permanent electrical connection. It's how I've always made welding cables, and it's always worked great. I also use closed end terminal lugs (100% copper) and adhesive lined shrink wrap where the lug meets the insulation to create more long term resistance in wire degradation from age and oxidation.
@taung9535 Жыл бұрын
Please look up why you’re wrong. It’s better to crimp in these situations
@NordicDan Жыл бұрын
@@taung9535 Or you could back up your thesis and avoid coming off as a prick, especially because in THIS situation, a crimped and soldered terminal is superior. 25+ years of experience working both ground vehicles and aircraft in addition to well over a thousand hours of formal training has taught me which situations require only a crimp, which require only solder, and which benefit from both; especially when you're going for a long term reliable electrical connection.
@chrisroemer1129 Жыл бұрын
Doing the Big 3 today on my 1996 Audi A4 Quatteo. Already have it in service mode(front bumper, rad support, etc removed). This video helped me make the decision to leave my factory power wire intact, just adding to the OE wires with my Big 3 kit(got mine from Skar Audio, 1/0 gauge kit). The engine to chassis ground isn't going to be too bad, it's easily accessible now that the front is off the car. The battery to chassis ground has me somewhat concerned, as the whole battery tray area is quite rusty. It's gonna be a lot of cleaning to get her right I think lol. Thanks for this truly helpful watch!! Made this job WAY easier to understand.
@rustypotatos2 жыл бұрын
Hey thank yall for this video. watched this video probably 5 years ago and I was such a noob I didn’t even understand but now that I have had more cars and abilities have grown this is so awesome lmaooo
@fred03568 жыл бұрын
LOL "have fun" that jeep patriot had me dying.
@vissac43 жыл бұрын
I thought for the alternator upgrade you had to actually replace the alternator?
@bailey25172 жыл бұрын
You do, but i guess that isn't technically part of the "Big 3" upgrade. But if you're running more than 1000-1200 WRMS, it's reccomened to buy a high output alternator and REPLACE your stock alt with it. I can push upwards of 1200 watts in my chevy s-10 but the headlights dim significantly and im sure its not good on the battery or the alt when i do that. Sucks because alts cost a shitton of money even if you just want a little extra wattage like 1500rms.
@Mikester855 жыл бұрын
This video is ESSENTIAL!!!
@JULIANysuHOHNER2 жыл бұрын
i have my battery under the passenger seat,can i just install the negative cable from battery - to the floor?vs running the cable to the front chassis??
@rustypotatos2 жыл бұрын
Yea of course
@rustypotatos2 жыл бұрын
Yea of course
@lawrencedavidson61953 жыл бұрын
Great idea. Those three connections are prob. the most neglected major connections on a car. Gonna do my '92 EG Civic this weekend. Greetings from sunny Jamaica.
@anthonyfernandez33102 жыл бұрын
Why don’t you replace the stock wires?
@bbshir362 күн бұрын
Too much work
@nathanc57894 жыл бұрын
First time I've seen the Big 3 done incorporating the original wiring with the new wiring. Interesting.
@richbernhagen31373 жыл бұрын
My thoughts exactly..hes parelling which I feel is not right
@elvd12963 жыл бұрын
LMAO
@elvd12963 жыл бұрын
@@richbernhagen3137 it's right it's just extra and basically useless
@fragslayer3 жыл бұрын
Yeah it'll take the "path of least resistance" regardless. I mean sure you could remove the OEM completely but its really a waste of time. Now if your as OCD me and have the time and know-how then by all means.
@tommangu99408 жыл бұрын
would love you guys to do an amp dyno test before the big 3 & after to see what the difference is 👌 Love your guys videos....great info
@greenmarine54 жыл бұрын
....that's logically pointless
@bobbyotay3 жыл бұрын
I don't understand why Tom's request is logically illogical I mean really what are you doing this for do you really even know if it's like the other videos I've been saying and listening to you guys keep saying you can increase the voltage that is an absolute joke you can't change the voltage if it was a wire is thin has paper or as thick is an elephant's trunk. So now that we have that truth out of the way back to the why you do this to start with I mean there should be a basis for everything there should be a start and the reason for anything you're doing so again if you're doing this for More Voltage you're wasting your time but like Tom said," it sounds like he could be educated" what is the total amperage that you gain the end of this because we all know well at least now we all know you cannot get any more voltage by changing the wire size you can only get more amperage Through the Wire so it sounds so silly that you would even question Tom's thought on how much amperage you could pull through your wires because that's all you're doing you're setting it up so you can draw the same voltage however more amperage through the wires which feeds the larger hungry for amperage not voltage to run properly. You took the words right out of my mouth Tom how about amperage test that's the real way of telling if this really does anything at all which we know by All rights it should and the one thing that I've always learned about electricity for my dad that used to do the electrical on B-52 bombers in the Air Force was that you needed as big as a ground has you have a hot wire. Which brings me to joke number two. I rebuild alternators for a living. Why would you need to ground an alternator that has no remote grounding components whatsoever and if the engine is grounded properly no Factory would send it out the door without having the proper gauge wire for the alternator that it is built with however if you are going to use a larger alternator then you could consider running a heavier wire and unlike all of you people that keep saying hook your grounds to the same place, that is so dumb and also not true you want to separate your grounds most people are just too lazy to get under the vehicle and established a new ground opposing the factory one that means opposite of perfect example is if you're going to use a rear-mounted battery which is the way to go aftermarket stereo amplifier you would run a charge wire back to the battery which would not have to be the welding lead you are talking about again we're talking amperage that comes from the alternator it doesn't matter it still a 12-volt alternator capable of putting out 14 point 8 volts however we all know that it's the amperage and the amount that it puts out that regulates the wire size. So if you ran a battery in the back you would also my suggestion run your ground wire right there. It's funny listening to you about you don't know why somebody would run a ground through something the size of a speaker. Do you know how many amps go through a ground LOL you're starting to get the drift I hope maybe you will change your videos when you use words like I don't know why and you're standing there talking about automobile manufacturers with educated employees seriously don't get me laughing I'll have to get some tape Cape my whole body to keep from cracking up anyways you're wasting a lot of time there's nothing worse than people that know what they're talking about looking right through BS and knowing it's just pure BS.. PS do you sell Wire by the Foot LOL
@freeair72923 жыл бұрын
@@bobbyotay agreed,thumbs up for you!
@rudyhaalilio80952 жыл бұрын
I think its more for keeping your voltage stable then adding volts... it'll save your alternator also...
@HarmonicFoul2 жыл бұрын
@@bobbyotay jesus but fair lol i would like to second the motion for a before and after amperage test lol
@honahwikeepa211510 ай бұрын
I'm going to do this. I have basic toos but a fair amount of mechanical engineering knowledge. Thank you 💪👍🇳🇿
@BlackuLaLa2 жыл бұрын
I've seen some weird shit when I've googled "Big 3 Upgrade", so thanks a TON for this straightforward vid. Much appreciated!!
@KolaMokwele8 жыл бұрын
"Improve Your Vehicle's Electrical Charging" Good stuff
@elvd12963 жыл бұрын
LOL
@chapelbarnes64272 жыл бұрын
Any idea why my battery light came on after I did this?
@jamesorr12006 жыл бұрын
This video was extremely helpful. Thank you!
@BobNew-n5i Жыл бұрын
Excellent video using 4 gauge wire on stock cars👍. Saw some other videos where guys were using huge 0 (zero) gauge. Some great tips in the comments about dipping in a lube BEFORE crimping ends to prevent corrosion.
@eaglerider9428 күн бұрын
Great content. The engine to chassis cable on my '94 BMW e34 525i was completely covered in green patina, of course the insulation was practically gone. Upgrading with a 1' 4 gauge cable.
@drivn48958 жыл бұрын
"..now THIS is one of the ones where I'd say.... ueghhhhh... Have fun." lol
@luisnegron88944 жыл бұрын
That was the best.
@jasonturner46257 жыл бұрын
Be cautious on this advice. You need a fuseable link (or fuse or breaker) on the alternator wire. The ground should be two single point connections. One to the block and one to the chassis. All other devices should ground to the chassis. The dual ground he just created between the battery and the chassis made a ground loop. This is not good for system noise on the ecus or stereo. On the block side, most newer engines have a large ground near the starter and a small braided ground near the coils. This too is important as the braid reduces rfi created by the high voltage coils. It's not simply bigger is better. Done properly this will be more efficient, but it is not going keep the headlights from dimming. For this, a $50 ups battery installed near the amplifier will beat this hands down on improvement and cost.
@julianayala033 жыл бұрын
i was looking for someone to mention ground loops.
@UnpredictableStuntN5 жыл бұрын
some people dont know how much of an improvement the big 3 is, great video!!
@xspowermando95515 жыл бұрын
Wait till u see the big 4
@kingwillie2064 жыл бұрын
Noe Simental - I prefer Big Hero 6 myself.
@buddyrebel_Garcia2 жыл бұрын
I did a big 3 without a HO alternator and it made a big difference.
@98erics6 жыл бұрын
Good call on twisting the wire brush on the drill, I'm personally embarrassed that I didn't think of that. I'm always brushing way too big of an area, thanks for the idea dude.
@greenmarine54 жыл бұрын
that's actually a tool you can buy for your cordless Drill...LOL
@c.m.cunningham11754 жыл бұрын
Would of liked to see the calculations for this upgrade, also depending on how old the original wire are, the old wires could be causing underlining issues for the charging system!
@c.m.cunningham11753 жыл бұрын
@Travis Hamler I used welding wire which would have a different resistance, but I was referring to the video. Which doesn't show the performance improvements (multimeter).
@CarlOblander Жыл бұрын
He doesn't know his head from his ass, so ohms law is a bit ahead of him.
@sat_sonic5 жыл бұрын
This is truly and excellent idea to do. Especially if you have a vehicle that mounts it’s battery under the passenger seat or back in the trunk.
@REVIEW_JUJUR4 жыл бұрын
*Doing this improve my battery charging voltage by 0.2 volt. Nice share...*
@hiRyan3293294 жыл бұрын
Big 3 plus a high output alternator makes doing this way more worth it
@colemcdougal7670 Жыл бұрын
this video is so so old, but i couldn’t find a video on how to wire a big 3 on a celica ANYWHERE. this jus made my day
@florida995Ай бұрын
I have a Jeep Patriot and did the big 3 last weekend. Had to remove mass airflow sensor, intake, wheels, underliner, fender liner, serpentine belt, air conditioning compressor, etc. Normal array of tools needed but also tensioner pulley tool. If you’re not ready to get this on a lift and do all that then you should take it to a mechanic.
@justaguynamedmax82078 жыл бұрын
He smoked Hella weed before making this video
@donavanobrein53568 жыл бұрын
why do you say that?
@justaguynamedmax82078 жыл бұрын
+Donavan O'brein I didn't say it, his eyes did.
@MrMortenST8 жыл бұрын
he needs to wash his hands after butt stuff
@seanwatts83428 жыл бұрын
Who else would mod a 2001 Celica?
@dallasnativo41307 жыл бұрын
Sean Watts crap.
@elicoolestguy4 жыл бұрын
Could you show us how to add an inline fuse for the positive wire? Or would you route through the fuse box following the original wire?
@immrnoidall6 жыл бұрын
the engine ground on my jeep grand,has broken right off. i never knew a thing. until i fixed it. everything got better.
@2012cmontano Жыл бұрын
Can i use 0 gauge for this upgrade, because i have 0 gauge to my 3k drago massive amp.
@cjcallen59747 ай бұрын
honestly this is a good thing to do wether you are doing stereo equipment or not.the factory alt power and groundwires are very small in most cases
@lively_spirit_bbb4 жыл бұрын
I thought the big 3 included a bigger alternator to power extra sound system amps and such
@RenePerez-pu4cj6 жыл бұрын
For the grounds, should you use the existing grounding spots that factory used or make new grounds? I heard talk of having shorter grounds because that's how grounds are meant to be.
@chriscamp5190 Жыл бұрын
It should be ok as long as however you do it just make sure that the connections are solid on both the factory wires and the new ones
@ThisIsSolution Жыл бұрын
I like shorter wires, even though electrical resistance is basically the same
@Snakebite4206 жыл бұрын
What about a fuse on the ALT CHARGING WIRE To the terminal? They usually go to the fuse box to prevent any issues that could happen. Running it straight to the battery could give you issues and damage your components.
@captainamerica65213 жыл бұрын
this all is nessesary on all vehicles which hardly anyone does! helps can bus volt ref sytem and computers comunicate faster timing, gauges, charging, loads, a must for fog lights and big stereo amps, ect....
@agarciaagarcia35984 жыл бұрын
This upgrade did just about nothing for my 98 civic. All I have in car is two Fosgate P-100's that I got from Sonic Electronics. I run all LED lights on headlights, tail lights, and interior so minimal draw from light system. Headlights still dim the same as they did before the "Big Three".
@cg7life3574 жыл бұрын
Dam too I wanted to do it to my 96 Corolla 5 speed
@lesecksybrian19 күн бұрын
Gotta upgrade the alternator
@scott-michael8128 жыл бұрын
I dont quite remember but I couldve swore that a watched a SE video was a another big 3 video years ago but I thought he said the big 3 was upgrading wires, alternator and battery itself not just the wires to all 3!???
@SonicElectronix8 жыл бұрын
+Scott-Michael Kellar Hmmmm, I don't think that was our video? The Big 3 Upgrade refers to only the upgrading of the wires associated with the vehicle's charging system. Of course, upgrading the alternator or battery can certainly be done at the same time as the Big 3 for a more substantial performance boost.
@scott-michael8128 жыл бұрын
+Sonic Electronix gotcga
@bacin878 жыл бұрын
+Sonic Electronix do you ever do any install videos for the 2007 - 2014 Chevy Tahoe or Suburban? none of the videos I ever see pertain to my type of vehicle
@Soderdna8 жыл бұрын
agreed. back in the day the big 3 was 1. Wires 2. Alternator 3. Battery
@charliearroyo48098 жыл бұрын
Its still the same,but some have more than 3 grounds under the hood. The bigger the ride the more grounds it has
@Patrick.Weightman4 жыл бұрын
2:40 because there should be quite a few of them, hidden all throughout. My v6 has like 4 about that size
@fromstarlighttosunrise1286 жыл бұрын
i think the battery to chassis ground upgrade is a good idea. stock alternator already has good wiring and the block is already grounded to chassis via motor mounts
@gbxmusicchannel38366 жыл бұрын
This helped me alot to get rid of "alternator sound" in my speakers. Im also planning to do the block to ground and alternator to battery eventually but my alternator is pretty weak so don't know how much it will help.
@MobileTaz4 жыл бұрын
The block is NOT grounded to the chassis via the motor mounts. The mounts have rubber or polyurethane bushings in them, which is why there is a block to chassis ground in the first place. Smdh.
@fromstarlighttosunrise1284 жыл бұрын
MobileTaz funny u mention that now. last week my chassis ground melted and i put a huge cable from my battery to motor mount and another one from motor mount to chassis side of motor mount
@ramishrambarran39982 жыл бұрын
Great video. Very explanatory and to the point ! Full marks ! Trinidad % Tobago. West Indies.
@reefboarder7 жыл бұрын
To all the nay sayers, the big three is for current loss during heavy loads. Ie heavy bass at night will cause the lights to fade in and out and with the big three it significantly reduces and sometimes eliminates this from happening.
@BebeGoose78 жыл бұрын
What does the Big 3 help with, or improve?
@scott-michael8128 жыл бұрын
all the wire the same helps stop "choking" the alternator and battery flow.
@SonicElectronix8 жыл бұрын
+Makaio Prescott The Big 3 Upgrade lets your alternator push more current to you battery because of the larger gauge wire that is added. This helps to keep your battery at a more constant voltage, this becomes more important the more amplifiers you add to the system / the more power your sound system requires.
@accordingtohonda43088 жыл бұрын
The real, simple, answer that anyone cares about is... it will help lessen or prevent your lights from dimming when you're really rockin. Some say to just buy a "CAP" to fix engine bogging and power drops but after running caps for years I have found that this simple and cheap upgrade will fix your bass flicker. Unless you have like 5000+ watts in amps but at that point you are way past just the "BIG 3"and running more than one alternator and battery. :)
@Matt-ct5ks8 жыл бұрын
The other replies are right, I just wanted to add that it is also needed when running complex light systems. I have a jeep and I have safari style lighting so I can light up a campground if i needed too.
@BebeGoose78 жыл бұрын
Thanks you guys! I'm not running anything huge in my truck, just 2 10's running on 1000w split to 500w each sub. And all my lights work just fine when I'm pounding, no flickering or dimming. I've been wanting to do this just for kicks, but I also wanted to know of any benefits it may bring. My power and ground wires on my truck are 4 gauge, which is the same size that I'm running to my amp, so maybe if I ever do a more complex system that requires more power, I'll definitely do this! Thanks again.
@joelmatousek18175 жыл бұрын
Lol, I looked up how to do this, and conveniently I have a Toyota Celica lol
@brettdn137 жыл бұрын
For the new ground you made on the car for the battery, I would have put dielectric grease on the bare spot so water or salt doesn't rust out that spot and then eat away your fender
@otismatvejs10266 жыл бұрын
Wouldn't clear coat be cheaper?
@satchitananda18206 жыл бұрын
Yannis Clear coat would make the sanding you did pointless. You need bare metal and dielectric grease is meant for use on metal electrical contacts. Commonly used on spark plug wire to spark plug connections.
@GhilleGhille6 жыл бұрын
Konrad, the metal connection is already made, the clearcoat just goes above and around it. Just like an umbrella in the rain.
@miata3506 жыл бұрын
@@satchitananda1820 He applied the clear coat on the exposed areas AFTER making the connection. He didn't spray it BEFORE the connection. The clear coat isn't going to sneak it's way between the bare metal and the lug once it's screwed down tight. Also, grease can be washed off, clear coat is more durable.
@not12listen Жыл бұрын
I've installed 'the big 3' in several vehicles. What I noticed, after the fact, was easier & more consistent starting, and the interior lights were slightly brighter. Of note, on every connection point, I applied a very small amount of dielectric grease. Yes, this grease prohibits electrical conductivity - when pressure is applied (ie. when you tighten a nut or bolt) the dielectric grease pushes out of the way, thereby allowing a solid metal-to-metal connection, but the remaining dielectric grease acts as a 'seal' from outside elements. I've been doing this for over 15 years and it has helped increased the electrical consistency with each vehicle I've done this on. It is a smart move to make sure there is a 30 amp fuse on the wire that leads from the alternator to the battery - the fuse is best placed as close to the alternator as possible. This is just in case the sheathing of the wire becomes damaged and exposes the wire inside - the fuse will pop before it would short out anything electrical (ie. ECU, fuses, relays, etc).
@estefanpadilla92362 жыл бұрын
This video helped me alot after whatching 30 video before it. I couldn't understand but this video made my life alot less stressful and I got to learn in a way I understood and will always remember
@Az568183 жыл бұрын
Be aware if u have headlight dimming just doing the big 3 usually makes it worse best and easiest thing you can do is change to high output alternator
@jintarokensei33085 жыл бұрын
Why do this if you ain't swapping the alternator?
@jtpro5 жыл бұрын
It harnesses the full potential of your charging system. Factory wiring is a joke. Every vehicle I've owned gets this (along with a ground from the alternator mounting bolt to chassis) PLUS a bigger power wire from battery to starter.
@jintarokensei33085 жыл бұрын
@@jtpro yeah but if your alternator can't pump out the juice, you don't need the extra cabling.
@TheDarkToes5 жыл бұрын
@@jintarokensei3308 thats exactly what hes saying... the alternator can, the wire can't... actually very common on mass production cars. Made with cheapest copper components to save a buck.. Putting better copper on it, can make actually utilize the full potential of the alternator you already have....
@jintarokensei33085 жыл бұрын
@@TheDarkToes I see. I was under the impression that wire gaige is optimized for power throughput by factory default.
@cooltv9314 жыл бұрын
Jintaro Kensei wire gauge is optimized for the electrical needs of the car, not the capability of the alternator. If you add extra electrical needs like subwoofers, you’re alternator might be able to handle it, but the charging wire and ground is too small to give it that power
@ravenfn8318 жыл бұрын
The one thing I strongly disagree with in this video is to run an un-fused wire from the positive terminal. If something rubs against that wire or the casing melts, there be one hell of a dead short. Your car WILL burn to the ground. Hopefully nobody will be in it.
@mattslawncare56517 жыл бұрын
ravenfn lol i wonder if the cars still around
@chibb29547 жыл бұрын
he addressed that already
@meademorgan66146 жыл бұрын
You do realize there is no fuse on the factory wire from the alternator to the battery either, don't you? We do fuse the positive wire to the amplifier, but if the factory is fine with securing their wire ( some aren't even in a protective plastic wire loom ) and not putting a fuse on it. Then a trained competent car audio installer should be fine doing it that way too.
@MobileTaz4 жыл бұрын
@@meademorgan6614 Yeah there is. It's not actually a traditional fuse though, it's called a fusible link. It's just a short section of wire that's 4 gauges smaller than the protected wire, and wrapped in hypalon fireproof insulation. If there's a short, the smaller section of wire "blows out" like a fuse, opening the circuit before the protected wire can burn through.
@kingaustin57445 жыл бұрын
Its easy....all wires 0 gauge. Positive wire from battery goes to positive wire on alternator. Negative wire on battery goes to anything on the chassis. The more wires the the more current. Make sure you disconnect negative and positive on the battery before any work.
@DAT240Z722 ай бұрын
Make sure to use a nickel based anti-seize on your ground connection. Stainless steel won’t rust but the chassis will and rattle can spray paint won’t stop it.
@marcusbryant20078 жыл бұрын
i think you also need to ground the alternator
@suda6958 жыл бұрын
+Arnel H. Ofren It's grounded to the engine via the bolts which in turn is grounded itself
@frankdehne19495 жыл бұрын
@@suda695 it helps to ground alt straight to battery
@MenacingRabbit5 жыл бұрын
@@frankdehne1949 you will actually run into electrical issues if you do that.
@frankdehne19495 жыл бұрын
@@MenacingRabbit how so. Its grounded to block. Ive done it to old cars just to get them running when the grounds arent conducting. Maybe 2o13ish and newer could have computer issues. But not the cars ive done it to
@MenacingRabbit5 жыл бұрын
@@frankdehne1949 I just wanted to troll someone Frank, you're absolutely right about what you said. I like to leave random comments on various posts and see how worked up people get.
@Boxing0075 жыл бұрын
My 2005 Honda element has an alternator that has 105 amps. Which kit would you recommend?
@jabroni61995 жыл бұрын
The factory one it came with. This is totally useless unless you have an electrical load that needs it AND an upgraded alternator to keep up.
@zorans52005 жыл бұрын
@@jabroni6199 ... Completely useless application unless you plan on making your car into a towing truck..
@bryanrmcf8 жыл бұрын
"What's the point of this?" Really? Try running a 5,000 watt system on the stock wires... By the way, it's good that you showed the Patriot, I was looking into doing this myself to my 2016 Patriot, GREAT VIDEO GUYS!
@zorans52005 жыл бұрын
If you are dumb enough to run a 5,000WATT system in-stock wiring ... Then that's on you.
@Malek-b4 жыл бұрын
ZORAN S. Where do I get the Big 3 wires from I’m still learning stuff about car audio. I plan on having a system with 1200 watts or 1500
@zorans52004 жыл бұрын
@@Malek-b .. for system of that kind of current draw.. you will need to run a AWG#6 wire from you battery (+) side all the way things your trunk... You will need to fuse the cable to what ever the amplifier is fused at.. to make sure the cable does not over heat in any circumstances... now you can also add a (dry cell ) Cary battery (12v) to your trunk with the AWG#6 cable feeding the battery... And then from that battery the amplifier will be connected... You will also need to make sure that the battery in the trunk is also grounded... Now for your engine bay wiring. If you have rotten or degraded wiring coming off of your battery (under hood). You will need to clean them with anti oxidizing sprays and such... Make sure that the cables are in decent condition so it allows for maximum current flows... With the method that I described to hook up a system you will have all the power you would ever need.. Unless you are reaching 3,500watts and up.. Then you really need to go over your cable sizes.. the more powerful your system is, the more current draw, the more current draw...the more resistance in the cables.. there for heating of the cable will occure this is why it's crucial to have wiring far past the current capabilities of the system... It's kinda like anti fire insurance... Lol... But as I was saying .. you positive and your ground cables can also be change under your hood to a more substantial AWG so the current flows faster.. smaller cables =resistance.
@boonydock4 жыл бұрын
ZORAN S. what
@derekleuchtenmacher22993 жыл бұрын
Great video and ill be doing the big 3 sooner than later. And what he means by adding a fuse holder you would cut the wire in a spot that you can easily get to if it pops now make sure you get a fuse holder up to 150 amp because it will blow every 2 days and make sure you do a battery test so you know ur pushing at least 114 volts
@ClearWater7.626 жыл бұрын
I bought a car shell a few years back, I didnt have enough ground and the car cluster was going crazy and making weird buzzing sounds. Added 2 more grounds, engine started and everything was good.. it might be a waste of time for some of yall but remember, your spark plugs fuel pump and ecu also uses ground.
@nickhendrian74517 жыл бұрын
Weve all gone to high school with "this guy"
@bassplayer4268 жыл бұрын
So your running a + cable that bypasses the factory fuse, nice... (Sarcasm)
@kingwillie2064 жыл бұрын
There should be appropriate fuses on each line. The factory fuse isn’t enough for a powerful aftermarket system and therefore should be bypassed.
@slow_rednline48744 жыл бұрын
@@kingwillie206 exactly ..this guy is a moron
@uhpixr4 жыл бұрын
Someone tell me why I thought the Big 3 meant 3 brand new high out put alts...
@Bay_Area_john3 жыл бұрын
Lol I thought it was alternator, battery, and isolator.
@crazy8sdrums6 жыл бұрын
For size of wire (gauge), I may recommend using the same size wire as your amplifier (or distribution block) gets or the next size bigger. If you have no audio amplifier, 4 gauge would be great..or even 8 gauge would do OK too. If you have stuff like a winch, or big add-on lights, or use a high current device (like a 12vdc to 120vac converter) you will probably want to use 4 or 2 gauge. If you are going balls-out big amplifier kind of stuff, then cram some phat 0 gauge stuff in there, even though you may have trouble finding room for it. There are potential drawbacks to using excessively large gauge wire for the big 3....similar to what happens when you try to use a firehose on a garden spigot.
@davichan92864 жыл бұрын
there are zero drawbacks for using gauge zero. Bigger is always better, it'll always give a more efficient flow, and less heat. Even if it doesn't matter. the only issue would be space, if it can fit.
@crazy8sdrums4 жыл бұрын
@@davichan9286 4 gauge (quality) wire is more than enough for any Big 3 upgrade. Anything more than that is a waste of money. If you have extra wire of bigger gauge than 4 hanging around, use it! If you got big money burning a whole in your pocket..burn it!
@davichan92864 жыл бұрын
@@crazy8sdrums It was the same price as the 4, so why not lol. And, if you plan on upgrading your alternator to something serious you're already covered.
@demsandlibsareswinecancer4667 Жыл бұрын
@@crazy8sdrums 4 gauge is in fact not big enough for any Big 3 upgrade especially if you're one of those people that has any inclination like an adult should that just maybe you might be adding things in the future that will benefit from the larger wire. Even Boy Scouts have the motto "be prepared" so what's your excuse?
@NickBEADG3 ай бұрын
The 3rd one that goes from the block to the chassis also prevents your sensor bolts from rusting(believe it or not caused head gasket issues in Subarus). Don't change it to route to the battery, just upgrade thickness.
@chrisr56757 жыл бұрын
If the alternator goes directly to the fuse box, should i run a new wire from the alternator directly to the battery or replace the wire from the alternator to the fuse box and also the one going from the fuse box to the battery? Sorry if the question is worded confusing.
@realmearthheaven12577 жыл бұрын
C L58 I have this issue, what did u do
@hunteraguillard45287 жыл бұрын
having your alternator run directly to your fuse box from factory is the same as having a fuse in line on your power wire. you would need to upgrade both in order for you to have any sort of benefit from it.
@realmearthheaven12577 жыл бұрын
Rin Kumiko I was told to just run a new ire straight from alternator to battery and leave the fuse box wire from alternator to the battery alone
@CCWSig8 жыл бұрын
My hunch is any performance increase in your electrical system you get after doing this, is from cleaning(removing and reinstalling) the existing connections, and not from the actual upgrade.
@chibb29547 жыл бұрын
it's both... current chooses the path of less resistance ( an uncorroded larger gauge wire that you install )the cleaning is the same concept ( reducing resistance)
@Veritas-invenitur6 жыл бұрын
There is no point in doing this upgrade unless you have aftermarket equipment causing stress on your electrical system.
@skateminilogo188 жыл бұрын
My man high as a asteroid this entire video
@tenspeed77116 жыл бұрын
So if an asteroid is below earth dose that mean hes lower then an asteroid? Hahaha
@bearxbunny18354 жыл бұрын
For a 2001 that Celica is in AMAZING shape!!!
@johnanderson55004 жыл бұрын
I was thinking that too!
@MsiVip6 ай бұрын
Thanks god i have an accord and its very easy because the engine is very simple and the alternator is the first thing you see when opening the hood
@gabepettinicchio74545 жыл бұрын
For the small increase in driving performance, is the inclusion of the Alternator necessary? Mine is buried at the bottom. If the Alt. is left out, wear is a good location for wire #3 to go, along with a 4th wire? I hope this is still being watched. I would greatly appreciate any help.
@elijahlining59403 жыл бұрын
It a big deal if you're not getting connection and your windows break one by one😂
@batvette3 жыл бұрын
The factory charge wire is designed for the oem sound system. It may be inadequate if you upgrade to a higher power system, adding another may unleash additional power from your alternator.
@lorenzocheatham62558 жыл бұрын
My battery is in the trunk I'm dreading this upgrade...
@wheeldemon747 жыл бұрын
There's absolutely ZERO gain from any of this
@chibb29547 жыл бұрын
if the result of current flowing faster to your amplifier is absolutely ZERO gain then I guess you're right.
@ketillundsrensen61675 жыл бұрын
A little bit late but if it is the positiv wire you concerns for the just do the Ground part..
@slow_rednline48745 жыл бұрын
@@wheeldemon74 yes dummy, it's for people with stereo systems..
@elmasduro7808 жыл бұрын
what you recommend 0 gauge or 4 gauge for the big 3 for my amp on the shop they install 4 gauge i have a lanzar optidrive 500x2 2000watts and a hifonic brutus 2400watts.
@SonicElectronix8 жыл бұрын
+pepo la guira For that many amps / watts we would probably recommend 0 gauge for your Big 3.
@elmasduro7808 жыл бұрын
+Sonic Electronix thanks
@ralphpehrson8 жыл бұрын
+Sonic Electronix what about a 1000 watt bd t series rockford? mono block of course
@ayers17248 жыл бұрын
hi
@noanoxan8 жыл бұрын
Use what you used to power the amp. It's that simple.
@j-remy98322 жыл бұрын
Great video. I haven't had beat for a decade, and I'm doing all of this tomorrow afternoon as I drive a 4 banger. Thanks bro!
@reecewatson7733 жыл бұрын
Thank you, I have a 1999 Dodge Durango, have constantly had electrical problems. Going to do this Tuesday after the boys go to school. Monday get everything together and get the wires measured and ends put together. Have to see if I can find a stinger negative wire connector...